How to correctly insert the door frame into the opening. How to properly assemble and install a door frame: basic diagrams and work order

Interior doors today are an integral part of every interior. A variety of models allows you to make your room not only practical, but also original. But this feature largely depends on correct installation door frame interior door. Therefore, before starting such an operation, you should familiarize yourself with the main nuances of this procedure.

Types of doors

Interior doors are structures that play only a decorative role, so the strength parameters are not so important here. Manufacturers try to make their products as comfortable and beautiful as possible. The main criterion for classification interior paintings is the material from which they are made. Depending on this, several types of doors can be distinguished:

• Fiberboard. The basis is made up of wooden blocks, to which thin wood boards are attached. To protect the surface of the material, it is laminated and covered with several layers of varnish. This type of product is the cheapest, but also short-lived. Often they are complemented by a box with a threshold. Experts do not recommend installing these doors in a bathroom or kitchen, where there is poor ventilation.

• MDF... Cloths are much more expensive than fiberboard products. The products are distinguished by an optimal ratio of price and quality. Therefore, many buyers prefer MDF doors. The material resists moisture well, and also has high sound insulation performance.
• Natural wood. Solid wood doors are unique and beautiful products that are perfect for any interior. The substance is very well processed, which allows it to be given different shape... Therefore, such doors are very often decorated with carvings, which makes them even more beautiful.

They are supplemented with a telescopic or simple box, which allows you to fix the platbands more efficiently. Doors are made from various types of trees, among which the most popular are pine, oak, ash, maple, mahogany and many others.

There are many other classifications of interior doors that take them into account. technical specifications and design features. They can be single or double-leafed, and the surface itself can be smooth or complemented by curly cutouts and glass inserts.

What do you need?

Installation of interior doors involves not only a careful approach, but also the use of high-quality auxiliary tools. To perform such tasks, you will need the following standard set of products:

• Saw. It should be sharp and have small teeth, which will eliminate the appearance of chips on the surface of the box.
• Drill and drill set. The type of tool depends on the wall material to which the frame will be attached. It is important that the drills are able to drill holes in brick, concrete, etc. In some cases, you may need a hammer drill and several drills.
• Screwdriver and attachments for a certain type of fastener.
• Tape measure and pencil for marks.

• Level.
• Fasteners. In most cases, you will need several wood screws and wall plugs. Sometimes special anchors can also be used.
• Polyurethane foam.
• Spacer elements. They are needed to fix the box in the opening. Wooden wedges are often used for this. Therefore, you need to stock up on wood, from which it will subsequently be possible to form several similar products.

This list is not universal as it depends on the type door frame and the method of its installation.

Installation subtleties

Installation of a door frame for an interior door is a complex procedure that requires certain skills and patience. You need to start with the preparation of the working tool, as well as the choice of the mounting method. In most cases installation is carried out using anchors that securely fix the frame.

How to assemble?

The box installation procedure begins with its assembly. This design can be of several types. Today, U-shaped frames are increasingly used, which exclude the presence of a threshold. But there is also rectangular structures, which are also used quite often.

Factory models are often already prepared for assembly, as they are pre-finished to give beautiful view... If you decide to build a box of timber independently, then it must be thoroughly dried and polished.

Assembling the box involves performing several sequential operations:

• Initially, you need to lay the bars on a flat horizontal surface. Often they use a floor for this, which is covered with paper or film in order to exclude damage. door leaf.
• Collecting a box begins with measurements. It is important that the width of the opening is slightly larger than the door leaf itself.
• When all the data are known, the elements of the duct should be connected into a single structure. They can dock in several main ways. The simplest connection is considered to be at 90 degrees. To do this, the upper bar is cut from the ends at a given angle.

It is important that the cut surface is flat and free from distortions. After that, the vertical support is attached to the transverse bar and screwed on.

• You can also connect these elements at an angle of 45 degrees. To do this, a corner is cut off on each bar. After joining both structures, they should also form 90 degrees. Please note that even the smallest deviations should not be allowed, since the operation of the entire system depends on this.
• When you have fitted all the bars, you can connect them together. To do this, use nails or screws. It is advisable to drive 2 fasteners in each docking side. It is important that after assembly, the box is held as firmly as possible, and the elements do not move relative to each other. If you plan to organize a threshold, then it is attached to the supports like an upper bar. It is also important to connect this part as evenly as possible.

• After assembling the box, you should start attaching the hinges. For this, the frame is laid on the floor and leveled. After that, grooves for the hinges are cut out on one of the sides on the vertical rack. Experts recommend placing them at a distance of 20 cm from the top and bottom edges. The grooves are formed using a chisel or a router.
• When the hinges are attached, place the door leaf inside the frame and mark their locations on it. To do this, the product is aligned with the frame, and then loops are applied and the places are marked.

The grooves on the door are cut in the same way as on the frame.

How to install correctly?

Do-it-yourself door frame installation involves performing several sequential operations:

1. Before installing the product, you need to measure the structure and the doorway. It is important that the structure fits into the hole, which should be slightly larger than it.
2. After that, you need to carefully lift and insert the box into the opening. You need to install the structure on a flat surface in order to eliminate distortions. The ends of the product must coincide with one of the sides of the wall. This is important if the width of the wireframe is less than this value.
3. It is important that the box is level in all planes. Therefore, you need to align and fix it in this position. For this, wooden spacers are used, which are installed between the frame and the wall.

How to fix it?

Fastening the structure is the final stage of the installation of this product. This process consists from several successive stages:

1. Several mounting holes are drilled in the fixed box. In this case, a drill is used for wood, which only the frame passes through.
2. To form holes in the wall for the dowel, use a long concrete drill. With its help, marks are made through previously drilled holes on the surface of the vertical supports. Please note that the diameter of the drill should not be larger than the hole in the tree, since then you will not be able to fix the system with a self-tapping screw.
3. At this stage, you need to remove the box and drill holes of a larger diameter in the marked places on the wall. They must fit the plastic dowel or anchor that will be used for this purpose.
4. When everything is ready, the box is put back in place, aligned and secured with wedges. If all is well, you can screw the frame to the wall with self-tapping screws in several places. In this case, it is important to constantly monitor the position of the box relative to various planes.
5. The procedure ends with filling the cracks with foam and hanging the doors on the hinges.

Replacement methods

Very often, interior doors are installed in place of already worn-out systems. This, in turn, involves dismantling old box.To replace old design you can use several ways:

1. Dismantling with destruction of the frame. This approach involves removing the old box using brute force. Here they use both crowbars and saws, with which they divide it into several separate parts... After that, the installation of the new system is already carried out.
2. Dismantling the structure while preserving the frame. If the doors are still in good condition and can be used elsewhere, remove the box carefully. To do this, sequentially remove all screws or other fasteners. Then the foam is removed, which additionally fixes the product. This will allow you to easily remove the box later, while maintaining its integrity.

This step by step guide is not universal, since the replacement of the box takes place taking into account specific design features.

If the door clings to the threshold

Wooden doors are prone to warping. Even if you have installed the structure and checked the correctness of its movement, this does not mean that it will always be so. Very often the canvas starts to cling to the threshold.

Correctly installed door frame ensures 90% of installation success door block generally.

The scheme of the door frame in the wall opening.

Before you put door frame, you need to carefully study the basics of this delicate work.

Tools and materials

Tools necessary for work: tape measure, pencil, hammer, square, construction knife, puncher, drill, screwdriver.

Depending on its design, the door frame can be installed using the following tools and materials:

• hacksaw for wood;
• a hacksaw with a fine tooth;
• miter box;
• chisel;
• screwdriver;
• puncher;
• drill;
• drill;
• construction knife;
• roulette;
• square;
• bubble level;
• pencil;
• hammer;
• nail puller;
• direct suspensions;
• self-tapping screws;
• dowels;
• anchors;
• nails;
• polyurethane foam;
• glue for MDF;
• wedges;
• wooden blocks;
• door frame;
• wood putty;
• additional elements;
• roofing material;
• building mixture.

Preparatory work

Cross-section of door frames of different types.

If the door frame is installed in place of the old one, the latter must first be dismantled. The easiest way to do this is by simply sawing the side and top planks in half and pulling out the resulting pieces with a nail puller. Sometimes you also have to cut the fixing nails and anchors around the perimeter. If there are embedded parts in the opening, it is better to leave them. Subsequently, it will be easier to install a new box on the mortgages.

In most cases, an interior door box can be purchased in the form universal kit... Collect and adjust it to fit right size you have to yourself. The box kit must include side and top strips, a threshold or a bottom strip for interior doors - a rarity, but may be present. The porch can be one piece with the slats or be overhead. The box itself can be made of wood or MDF. The planks included in the kit are designed for use as part of a unit with a door leaf 2 m high and 60-90 cm wide.

You can accurately mark the planks before cutting as follows. The detachable porch is installed in the side strips, which are laid out with the front surface upward approximately along the width of the opening. The canvas is placed on the porches between the planks. The upper bar is applied in place. With a solid porch, it can be applied with the upper side to the canvas, this will not affect measurements. A uniform gap of 2-3 mm is set along the perimeter of the canvas, for this you can use cardboard cuttings, tile corners or just by eye. We mark the location of the awnings on the side bar and the canvas.

Installation diagram of door hinges.

The hinges are cut before installing the box in the opening, or better before starting its assembly. This makes your work more convenient. The bar is laid out on horizontal surface, the contour of the loop is outlined, with the help of a chisel, excess material is removed. The generally accepted arrangement of awnings at a distance of 20 cm from the upper and lower surfaces of the door leaf. For lightweight canvases, amplifiers are made in these places.

The cutting points of the planks are neatly marked with a pencil. For a door with a threshold, the gap to it from the bottom of the leaf is assumed to be 2.5 mm. For a door without a threshold, the clearance under the door is made from 1 to 1.5 cm. On the upper and lower planks with a solid rebate, marks are made opposite the edges of the porches on the side strips. This will allow you to cut off the excess protruding porch at the top and bottom to match the corners of the box.

We cut off all the strips with a hacksaw to the desired size. The miter box will help to cut the elements exactly. On the upper and lower planks, using a hacksaw and a chisel, remove the excess vestibule along the serifs. Put the box on the floor again and put the canvas into it, setting the necessary gaps. We fix all corners with two wood screws with a length of 75 mm with a countersunk head. For self-tapping screws, you must first drill holes of a suitable diameter. If you screw in the self-tapping screws without drilling, you can split the ends of the strips.

When the width of the opening allows, a box of MDF is better reinforce the sides with additional bars. This will make the structure more rigid. Before trying to insert the door frame into the opening, we fasten 3 straight hangers on its outer side surfaces: 2 at the edges and 1 in the middle. A strip of roofing material is nailed to the lower end of the structure with a threshold.

Door frame installation

Door frame installation diagram.

We install the box in the opening. It should enter freely and not rest on anything. All that interferes must be brought down. For the option with a threshold, you may need a groove in the floor. During installation, it is filled with mortar or polymer construction mixture.

To begin with, the side of the box, on which there will be awnings, is set at the level in 2 planes and in alignment with the wall. This side can be immediately fixed to the opening with straight hangers. The upper bar is approximately set to the horizon. It is checked that it does not touch anything, it is even better to have a small gap for subsequent adjustment.

It is quite difficult to precisely align the top bar and the counter side stand in level.

Fine adjustment is carried out with a suspended blade. Otherwise, there is a high probability that the door will not evenly approach the narthex along the entire plane.

The canvas is placed on awnings, the top and side counter sides are exposed with the required clearance along the perimeter and along the vestibule. This is done using wedges. 3 reciprocal straight hangers are screwed on.

For MDF models with a removable rebate, the box is rigidly fixed to the opening with anchors or long self-tapping screws through the rebate groove. In wooden planks, you can hide the location of the fasteners with a matching wood filler. Variants of MDF with a solid rebate can be fixed through the box only in 3 places: under the awnings and the striker plate of the lock. But such fasteners are too close to the edge of the wall and can cause chips. Therefore, it is better to limit yourself to mounting on straight suspensions and foam.

Before filling the gap with foam, the ends of the opening should be slightly moistened with water. It is advisable to fill it in such a way that the foam does not creep out beyond the plane of the wall. Cutting it leaves the pores open and reduces the strength and durability of the filling.

To prevent the foam from squeezing the opening, it must be wedged. You can just leave the canvas in the opening, and put cardboard scraps into the gaps. If the door opens into the room, this will not work. We'll have to use scraps of wooden blocks and wedge them in the opening.

After a day, the foam will harden. The removable bolster is fixed with glue. For reliability, you can add small carnations with bitten off caps. It remains to arrange the opening and fit the fittings. When you want to have a casing on both sides of the opening, and the width of the box is less than the thickness of the wall, additional strips are used.

Installing a door (interior or entrance) requires accuracy and attention. The main condition for long-term and comfortable operation- verticality and horizontalness of the door frame. Pay close attention to this aspect. Then the doors will open and close normally, they will not be distorted, the hinges will not creak.

The interior doors are mounted after they are finished. Finishing work on the walls and ceiling. The subfloor must also be ready, laid flooring, but skirting boards have not been installed yet.

There are three types of door configurations:

Choose the option that seems more attractive to you. Naturally, their cost is different, but labor and time costs are also very different.

Door frame dimensions

About door sizes building standards v different countries differ. For example, in our country, the width is considered standard swing door 600 mm, 700 mm, 800 mm, 900 mm. Similar regulations in Spain or Italy. But in France, 690 mm, 790 mm and 890 mm are considered the norm.

What to choose? More often they prefer to adhere to domestic norms: there is more choice. Installation of inappropriate building codes doors leads to the fact that to replace them you will need to look for the same or redo the doorway. There are no other features.

In general, the width of the door leaf and doorway is regulated by GOST. He defines them depending on the room:

But the realities are such that we are adjusting to what we got from the builders. Therefore, in order to determine the size of the door and frame, it is necessary to measure the existing opening. Based on the results (the smallest value), select the dimensions of the block that will be slightly smaller. Necessarily less, since clearance is required for the installation of fasteners and spacers.

When taking measurements of the doorway, inspect the walls. Repair and reinforce if necessary: ​​the box will hold up better. The condition of the walls is especially critical when installing heavy doors. If possible, you can attach to the wall wooden block at least 50 mm thick and plaster it. It will then be convenient to attach the box to it.

There is also such a parameter as the depth of the box. The standard is 70-80 cm. But in many private houses, the wall thickness is many times wider. Then the doors are installed flush with one of the walls so that the opening and slopes do not interfere with opening them. The remaining width of the opening can either be plastered and finished in the same way as the walls, or you can install an additional strip, which is selected to match the door leaf and door trims.

Read how to set the additional bar here. It is written here about the installation of platbands on the door.

How to assemble and install a door frame

If you bought doors with a frame, you will need to fasten the vertical strips - racks (jambs) - with the horizontal - lintel. This is usually done on the floor. Having spread paper or cardboard, the planks are laid out on the floor. Connect, checking the exactness of the match. If necessary, eliminate the disadvantages: process sandpaper, achieving the absence of gaps.

If you bought doors with a box, you shouldn't worry about the dimensions, but you still need to check. Just in case, so that you don't have to redo it later. Therefore, having folded the details of the door frame on the floor, put the doors between them. If everything is correct, then a gap of about 3-4 mm should remain around the perimeter of the door leaf. Only under this condition will the doors open and close normally.

There is little to say about height adjustments. Usually, the side racks of the box are made 12-15 cm longer than the door... This is in case the doors are mounted according to the rules: the racks will rest on the floor joists. But since this method of installation is rare today, the racks are shortened to the desired length.

Assembling the box and adjusting it in height

The next stage is the assembly of the door frame. It is better to do this with self-tapping screws. If the corners of the planks are cut at 45 o, obliquely drill holes for self-tapping screws on the side plank, as shown in the photo. Then we apply it to a horizontal bar and twist it with self-tapping screws.

When assembling the door frame, we drill holes for self-tapping screws - this way wood or MDF will not crack

If the corners of the box are cut at 90 o, it is a little easier to work, but it is still advisable to drill holes. This is definitely necessary if the box is made of MDF: this will guarantee that the material will not collapse.

The upper bar is placed against the side bar, the edges are aligned. Two holes are made: the upper bar through and through and into the end of the side bar. It will be clearer if you look at the photo.

By connecting the strips in this way, you get a finished box. The lower bar is practically not used today, because there is nothing below. Check again, in the assembled state the frame is 3-4 mm larger than the door leaf (both wider and longer). You can check.

Often the height of the posts is greater than necessary. Take a tape measure, measure the height of the doorway, subtract 1-2 cm, which will be filled with foam. This will be the height of the box. Measure on each side of the opening separately: After measuring again, put this value on the racks of the assembled box, draw a cutting line. Cut off the excess. Half of the installation of the door frame has already been done by you, and with your own hands.

Embed the hinges

One part of the hinge with a pin is fixed on the frame of the door frame (1), the second - at the end of the door leaf (2)

At what height should the hinges be installed? The distance from the edge of the door leaf must be at least 19 cm. For light doors, two hinges are sufficient - at the top and at the bottom. On heavy ones, three are installed: one more in the middle.

The hinges consist of two detachable parts, one of which has a pin. We put them so that the pin looks up. It is important.

It is more convenient to embed hinges and locks directly on the floor. Therefore, we take the fittings, attach them, mark them out and make recesses. First, we cut in and fix it on the rack. Then putting the doors down, we mark the place for the hinge at the end of the door leaf.

It is convenient to work with a milling cutter, if it is not there, we use a chisel. You only need to remove a few millimeters of material, so it doesn't take long. When folded, the hinges leave a gap of 4 mm between the door leaf and the pillar. Taking this into account and the thickness of your loop, we calculate the depth of the seat.

Having installed the hinges on the rack, we apply the canvas and at its end we mark the place where the hinges will be attached. Cut to the same depth as on the rack.

Installing the box

Place the racks and lintel assembled with the letter "P" in the doorway. With the help of a level and / or plumb lines, set in the horizontal and vertical plane. Fix the position with wedges and spacers, constantly checking for correct installation. Pay attention to the fact that the struts are parallel, not topple either sideways or forward. The comfort of using the doors depends on how evenly you expose everything.

After checking everything again, with long screws or dowels - depending on the wall material - fix the box canvas in doorway... One fastening on the door frame from the other is located at a distance of 25-30 cm. It turns out that 7-8 self-tapping screws fit on the vertical posts, 2-3 pcs on the lintel.

A hole is drilled in the box itself with a 4 mm drill, no more: the caps of the screws are 5-6 mm, and if you do more, they will not hold. This is where the timber built into the opening comes in handy (if there is one, of course). Self-tapping screws easily screw into wood and hold the box securely.

If the opening is brick, made of building blocks or shell rock, everything is more complicated: installation of dowels is required. Moreover, they should fall into the bricks, and not into the seam. And the diameter of the dowels is more than 4 mm, and they still need to be installed somehow.

Proceed as follows: drill with a thin drill 4 mm, trying to leave a mark on the wall. Having drilled everything, they dismantle the box, check where they got: into a brick or a seam. In order not to get into the seam, look at the area of ​​open masonry, or apply marks in advance on the box (only those that can then be erased). If everything is fine, make holes for the dowels, if they hit the seam, make adjustments. Dowels are inserted into the holes drilled in the wall.

To make it easier to put the box in the same place later, you can mark its edge on the wall with a pencil, marker, etc.

Expose the box again, making sure the holes in the box and the dowels match. Wedge and check once again how correct it is. Insert the crepe into the dowels, periodically checking it relative to the vertical and horizontal plane. Do not tighten too much - you can either damage the wood, or bend the stand.

Now install the door leaf. It is simply hung on the hinge pins. After checking the door is working properly, close it. Now the gap between the box and the wall must be filled with polyurethane foam.

Foaming

First, we fix the doors by placing some dense material, cardboard, for example, between the canvas and the jamb. At closed door we install wedges and spacers that will not allow the box to bend.

Then we take a can of polyurethane foam and fill the gaps between the box and the wall by about one third. No more foam needed. And this amount is more than enough. When it dries, it increases very much in volume. If there is too much of it, then it can bend the box strips. We'll have to dismantle everything and start over. Therefore, 1/3 of the volume of the slots is sufficient. After laying the foam, leave everything for about a day.

After that, you can remove the spacers, cut off the excess foam with a sharp knife and proceed with the installation of the extension (if the doorway is wider than the box) or installation of the platbands.

Outcomes

Do-it-yourself door frame installation is a responsible job. It requires attention and scrupulousness. But you don't need any superpowers. If you can handle even a little with a hammer, drill, chisel and self-tapping screws, you can definitely do it.

Each master is faced with the problem of how and what to attach assembled doors... For the installation of a ready-made door block, it is possible to use different ways installation. Knowing these installation options, you can easily choose the one that suits you. You will need a small set of tools - a drill, a hammer drill, a level, a screwdriver and a hammer. Also, for direct fixing of the box in the opening, fasteners and foam are needed. Depending on where you need to fix the door block, you may need self-tapping screws, dowels, anchors.

The main stages of installing the door block

At the very beginning, the old door frame is dismantled. It can be carried out using a nail puller (crowbar), having previously made cuts on both sides of each vertical bar, in order to then squeeze this structure from the opening. If during the installation of the old box were used anchor bolts, nails that are not possible to unscrew them can be cut with the help of a "grinder".

Before installing the box of interior doors, it is necessary to check the verticals of the walls and take into account the differences in the level of the walls and floor. The door frame must be positioned so that if there are irregularities, the walls of the box do not go deeper into the opening. This is necessary for the fit of the door trims. In order to correctly position the door frame, you should use the building level and take into account all the errors of the opening.

First, the units are rigidly fixed in the opening, in order to achieve the initial level of rigidity, wedges are used. After completing the fixing work, it is worth re-checking the correct location with the level so that the box is level with the door.

Working with polyurethane foam

It is important to know the foam that is intended for the gun, it is much better and more convenient to work with due to the fact that it is more dosed and has a small expansion coefficient, it hardens much faster. Foam served with a straw large quantity, it will expand longer. Before starting work, it is better to close the door leaf with masking tape and film, because the foam is difficult to wash. It is important to know, you need to start foaming with fixing individual small areas. After 30 minutes, you can already walk the entire perimeter. All cracks are filled with foam (50% of the total volume). Do not fill with a lot of foam, because the foam will push the box inward during expansion. We recommend using professional foams.

As the tree contracts and expands precisely because of high humidity the consequence of the expansion is the deformation of the door block. The door will simply stop closing for this reason.

Video on possible door mounting methods

There are several ways to fix the door frame in the opening, each of which involves the use of special kind fastening. Various options fasteners provide a certain level of reliability and strength of the fixed structure. We hope video footage on the options for installing boxes wooden doors will help you.

A hidden way to install doors on foam

The door frame is fixed in the opening, wooden wedges are used to fix it, and correct location verified by building level... Foaming with polyurethane foam should be done little by little, in sections and intermittently to avoid deformation. The door frame is held practically thanks to the foam alone.

To maintain a gap between the frame and the door itself, small 3 mm spacers are used, which are inserted between the door and the frame. They can only be removed when the foam is dry. Usually the door is left overnight.

This method is convenient if you do not need to go into the room, it is fast and does not require special efforts... It is important not to overdo it with foam so that you can open the door.

Installation of doors using clamps or spacers

The principle of installation lies in the fact that we use spacers inside for temporary fastening of the door block in the opening. These can be both ordinary wooden rivers and special adjustable devices.

Both are very good for light and small doors.

Fastening doors with Knauf hangers

For these purposes, Knauf direct suspensions, which are used in suspended ceilings, are the best suited.

• First, the plates should be screwed to the box.
• Insert the door into the opening.
• We adjust the level.
• We mark the places for the recess in the wall.
• We make a selection for the plate.

After that, we set it on a level and fix the plates. For adjustment, we use wedging with wooden blocks.

It is also necessary to take into account that with this method of mounting the box on the outer part of the wall, the place of the recess must be hidden under a layer of plaster. That is why this method is only good when there is no finishing.

New mounting options

This video will show you how to fix the door frame in the opening. This type of fastening is the installation of an interior door box, by putting the box on the screwed-in heads of the self-tapping screws, which are located at the ends of the opening. This happens using metal plates with a hole, which are screwed with outside boxes.

To achieve the final fixation of the frame in the doorway, conventional adjustment means are used.

With this method, the racks of the door block move freely in the opening.

A clear advantage of this method is the complete possibility of adjustment and, at the same time, rigid fixation with preservation of the original appearance of the box and exterior decoration walls.

Concealed installation, fastening under the hinges

As a rule, for the rigidity of the structure, screws or anchors are used, which are hidden under the hinges. To do this, a hole is made between the screws in the loop and through it they are attached to the wall. From the side of the lock, another fastener is attached under the decorative plate. As a result, we get 3 fixation points.

After directly fixing, we put a spacer at the bottom of the doors, since the bottom is not fixed and all the gaps are filled with foam.

A significant plus of this method is the relative rigidity, preservation of the appearance.

Through fastening on anchors or screws

This is the most common standard installation option for interior doors. For this option, fastening, first, holes are drilled for anchors in the right places of the racks, then the door is fastened in the opening.

Training

• Marking with 4 anchors on each side.
• Drilling with a 14 mm pen to a depth of 10 mm (space for the plug).
• We drill through hole 10 mm nib (space for anchor fixation).

Then the box is exposed and drilled with 10 mm concrete under the anchor. When the box is anchored, it is secure and does not require any struts. The attachment points can be hidden by installing decorative caps the desired color, size (14 mm). Instead of anchors, screws can be used, this will reduce the diameter of the plug. This option is most reliable for heavy doors. With it, you can align (stretch) the curved rail. The doors can be used almost immediately. It is possible to adjust the gap. The downside is the presence of stubs.

Tips for installing door accessories

Conclusion

There are many options for installing the frame of interior doors, but it is worth choosing the one that is the easiest, most convenient and reliable, or the fastest. The choice can be made according to any method of door installation, but these methods can be influenced by what opening the installation is in, taking into account the intensity and other factors.

Greetings, my hands!

Today I will teach you how to competently and correctly assemble the door frame .

The assembly process cannot be called complicated and it is quite possible to carry out it yourself, without resorting to the help of masters.

Doors are not just carpentry, they are also self-decoration an interior that will bring aesthetics, warmth and coziness to your home. It will be about interior doors, the presence of which will allow you to retire and reduce the noise level. And in order for the doors to retain their functional load as long as possible, they need a high-quality assembled door frame.

The main mistakes during assembly can be incorrectly taken dimensions, violation of the cut angles. It is important to understand that such "jambs" cannot be corrected - you will have to spend money on the purchase of additional parts. Of course, cracks and minor defects can be covered with a wax pencil, or other specials. means, but due to distortions, the load in the door frame will be unevenly distributed, which will lead to a significant reduction in the service life of the door leaf.

Assembly work on the door frame must be carried out with great care and attention. It is required to strictly observe the dimensions of the gaps and do not forget to leave allowances for the kerf.

Well - "made it creepy" - now you will bring the money to the specialists :) In fact, everything is not so scary - follow my prompts and everything will work out for you!

Components of the door frame

First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the device of the interior door frame:

• the hinge bar is the part on which the door is hung
• The mock beam is the part that joins the door. Into her.
• lintel - upper "ceiling" bar
• threshold - lower part

Thus, in order to assemble the door frame, you need to correctly connect all its parts. But before you start, you need to decide on the size and choose suitable material... Doors should look aesthetically pleasing and.

Choosing a material

I don’t have a definite answer here, as the choice depends on your preference and budget. I will give examples of the most common materials used for door frames.

MDF doors

MDF is a fiberboard. The doors are cheap, but they look good. The advantages include lightness and environmental friendliness. The disadvantages are reduced impact resistance, poor sound insulation and a short service life.

Glued solid wood

Glued board or "Eurobeam".

These doors do not consist of solid wood, but of glued under high pressure parts. There are practically no joints on them. The doors are quite sturdy and cost a little more than MDF. The price and quality are reasonable.

Solid wood doors

Doors are much more expensive than glued doors. Strong and durable. The disadvantage is improper processing by the manufacturer, as a result of which the tree is excessively saturated with moisture.

Chipboard and fiberboard doors

Fibreboard or fibreboard. These doors are very cheap as they are made from leftover material. The dignity of these doors is good mechanical strength, and pretty good sound and noise insulation. The disadvantages are low moisture resistance, as well as the presence of a volatile substance in the glue, which has a detrimental effect on health. Another aspect is the complexity of installation, since the screws in such doors do not hold well.

In addition to those described, there are also plastic, glass, aluminum, veneered. Doors with honeycomb filling, laminated, etc.

The choice of material is up to you, but it should be sensible and practical.

Tool

To assemble the door frame, we need a tool:

1. Sharp pencil
2. Construction tape
3. Building level
4. Building corner
5. Screwdriver or screwdriver
6. Miter saw, or miter box with a hacksaw for metal or "fine-toothed"

Correctly filmed size is the key to success!

The standard dimensions of door leaves are

• height 2000 mm
• width 600 mm, 700 mm, 800 mm and 900 mm

All other sizes outside the scope are usually ordered items. (I mean single canvases, not swing ones)

It is necessary to add 70 mm to the size of the canvas - this is standard width door frame. If the dimensions of the door frame are different, then the size will naturally change up or down. And we also add 6 mm - this is the technological gap between the leaf and the door frame.

Now you need to check how the door frame becomes in the doorway. If it needs to be expanded, then we are not in a hurry to break everything at once. We soberly assess the situation - it may be necessary to strengthen the opening with jumpers. If you need to reduce the opening, then we lay it with a brick, or "sew on" the bars - it all depends on the situation.

IT'S IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

To understand the size of the doorway you need, we look at the formula:

Door leaf size + door frame size + 6 mm tech. clearance + 60 mm (30 mm on each side under polyurethane foam and wedges that are needed when)

Usually sizes doorways are monitored at the construction stage, but in old private houses (like mine) there are "hard" inconsistencies.

Next important size Is the gap from the floor to the door leaf. Before calculating it, you need to check the floor level for the width of the "opening" of the door.

This can be done in two ways:

1. Using the hydro level

On the side walls of the opening, we expose marks at the same level. We measure the distance from each mark to the floor plane. The difference that you get when you measure should be added to minimum height racks so that when opening the door does not rest on the floor. If you still "blink" this moment, then you can eliminate it only by cutting the door leaf, and this is still "handcrafted" :(

2. Via laser level

If you are a happy owner of a laser level, then everything is greatly simplified. We set the level and with the help of the construction square we determine the curvature of the floors. The obtained values ​​are taken into account when setting the dimensions

The minimum gap is made 10 - 15 mm, depending on what kind of flooring is planned. But it is better to immediately lay linoleum, or carpet, or, and then install it.

See the matching table for door blocks and openings.

And here's another table typical sizes door frames

Assembling a door frame without a threshold

Consider assembling a door frame with your own hands using the example of a MDF box. We connect the upper parts at 45 °, as this is the most aesthetic way.

1.First of all, you need to tint the parts of the box. This is done in order to eliminate irregularities or factory defects.

IT'S IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

If you have to use hand tool, it is better to use a "fine-toothed" or a hacksaw for metal. Start making cuts from the veneer side so that chips, if any, remain on the invisible side.

2. "Saw down" at 45 ° the hinge bar and the narthex. It is best to do this with a miter saw, but if there is none, then you will have to work on a miter box. To avoid irregularities during sawing - the miter box must be fixed. We use a hacksaw with a fine tooth.

3. Next, we move on to the most difficult thing - "filing" the upper part of the box - the lintel. You need to clearly set the size and not overshoot with the corners. You can use a tape measure, but there is an easier way. To do this, put the lintel to the top of the door and mark the marks with a sharp pencil "in place". To maintain the technological gap, you can use packaging cardboard - its width is just 3 mm.

4. Mark the height of the hinged and false beams. I described how to find out the required height a little higher. This is the door leaf height + 3mm top gap + bottom gap. If the floors are even, then 10 mm is sufficient. When opening, the door leaf should not cling to or rest on the floor. A very high gap should not be done - 10 - 15 mm is enough for normal air circulation. If the room is humid, then larger values ​​are allowed.

IT'S IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

If there is a difference at the installation site of the doors and there is no way to fix it, then the height of the racks may be different. The highest point of the drop is taken as zero.

IT'S IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

We constantly and meticulously check all the applied dimensions before washing down. If the box turns out to be smaller than the canvas, then you will have to buy a new bar.

5. After all the components have been filed down, we assemble the MDF door frame together, pre-drilling the holes with a smaller drill to prevent the frame from splitting. For connection we use self-tapping screws 50 cm for wood. It is more convenient to carry out work on the floor, placing cardboard or other material under the box.

IT'S IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

When tightening the door frame, press its parts as tightly as possible, as the screws will stretch them.

Well, this is approximately the result you should get.

How to assemble a door frame at 45 ° and without a threshold - video

Assembling the door frame with a threshold

The easiest way to build. The fact is that the threshold is usually mounted at 90 °.

The threshold is mounted on the entrance or "entrance" doors, separating the cold room from the living room. In addition, the threshold gives the door frame additional strength.

Preparing the doorway, checking the level of the floors are absolutely identical with the assembly without a threshold, but the further steps are different.

So here step-by-step instruction on assembly:

1. Saw down the lintel according to its original dimensions. The length of the lintel will be equal to the length of the door leaf + 6 mm per gap. You need to make two such blanks - this will be the threshold. We do not forget to trim the workpieces, since the factory cut may not be even.

2. On the hinge and false beam, it is necessary to remove the stubborn quarter.

To do this, we connect the end vertical rack and put a mark with a horizontal and sharp pencil.

IT'S IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

The size must be transferred as clearly as possible so that there are no gaps. It is not problematic to close them up in the future, but this will violate the aesthetic component of the doors.

We make a cut to a depth of a quarter with a hacksaw or jigsaw. Be extremely careful - hook on work surface... On the MDF doors fix the "jamb" will not work.

Then we carefully remove it with a chisel or a clerical knife. We repeat the operations for all corners.

IT'S IMPORTANT TO KNOW:

If you use a chisel, do not in any case turn it upside down, sharpened side down. When carrying out work, the working part will cut into the material and all the work is "down the drain". The same rule applies when inserting loops.

3. We connect the box. We also drill holes and tighten them with self-tapping screws. The only difference is that galvanized self-tapping screws are used for the threshold, if it is a threshold front door... They are less affected.

Assembling a door frame with a threshold - video

Spike door frame

One of the ways to assemble door frames is a tenon joint. It is not as common as 45 ° and 90 ° assemblies, but it has a place to be.

The parts are joined by means of spike joints (see figure)

Usually the achieved stiffness is sufficient, but galvanized nails can be added to enhance the strength characteristics.

Mistakes in the installation and assembly of the door frame - laughter, and more!

Conclusion

Well that's all, friends.

In this article, I told you how to correctly assemble a door frame and I really hope that I did it.

Follow my instructions and you will succeed!