How to check the gas reducer. Gas pressure stabilizer, MESURA, model A6

The use of bottled gas requires a thorough approach to ensure safety and ease of use. We propose to consider the simplest example connecting a propane cylinder to a gas stove: a connection diagram, shut-off and control valves, organization of storage conditions.

Where to install the balloon

The main generalized requirement for the use of gas-cylinder equipment can be called ensuring the safety of people. For this reason, gas cylinders are not recommended to be installed in habitable rooms and technical rooms connected with a residential building directly or through ventilation.

A distinctive feature of propane gas is its high density. Bottled gas is heavier than air and can accumulate in the lower floors of buildings. Therefore, it is strictly not allowed to install cylinders in the underground or technical rooms below ground level. If in the usual case small leaks do not pose a danger due to constant air exchange, then in the lowlands the gas is capable of long time accumulate to explosive concentrations. Install gas cylinders according to SNIP 42-01-2002, it is possible only inside buildings no higher than 2 floors, in the amount of no more than one and at a distance of 0.5 m from gas stoves and 1 m from heating appliances.

To make the installation safer and exclude unauthorized persons from accessing the gas equipment, the cylinders are placed either in a room with a separate entrance or in an outdoor metal cabinet. It is especially important for outdoor installations to take into account temperature regime operation. Bottled gas is a mixture of propane and butane, each with a different boiling point. When the cylinder is cooled below 0 ° C, only propane will evaporate from the mixture, while the remaining butane in the cylinder cannot be rationally used. With more low temperatures it is possible to completely stop the flow of gas to the stove.

The main way to achieve normal operation at low temperatures, it is considered to use the so-called winter gas mixtures that can evaporate at temperatures down to -40 ° C. However, the problem is that such gas may be in short supply seasonally, and besides, the possibility of refueling a mixture of mediocre quality cannot be ruled out. There are two ways to resolve the issue with the guarantee: either insulate the attached metal cabinet, counting on the penetration of heat from the building, or additionally heat the cylinders using a self-regulating cable.

The height of the cabinet should be at least 20-30 cm higher than the height of the cylinders so that they are not installed on the floor, but with a gap, for example, on two metal rails or a high pallet. In this case, the cabinet must be protected from the penetration of melt, rain water and heating from sunlight above 40 ° C.

Which gearbox to choose

Gas stoves have built-in jets designed for a constant gas pressure, while the pressure in the cylinder decreases with consumption. To normalize combustion, the cylinder is connected to the stove not directly, but through a gearbox. Reducers for liquefied domestic gas are called propane and, as a rule, have a red or metallic body color.

The main characteristics of the reducer - outlet pressure and throughput - must be selected for the parameters of a single plate. If it is not possible to set the passport pressure value, you should purchase an adjustable type reducer and manually adjust it. Also, adjustable reducers are directly shown when using cylinders with a capacity of 20 liters or more, where the pressure drop is more pronounced.

For domestic use of propane, reverse gears are recommended. Due to the low pressure values of liquefied gas and the low difference between the inlet and outlet, the use of multistage gearboxes is not economically justified. The only requirement is to use the reducers specified in their technical standard in conjunction with composite cylinders.

A separate nuance in the choice of the gearbox may be the temperature regime of operation of the cylinders. The fact is that during the evaporation of liquid gas, an intensive decrease in its temperature is observed. So, if initially the propane-butane mixture is at a temperature of -5 ... -10 ° C, in the gearbox itself its temperature can drop to the level of condensation, due to which the gas becomes liquid again, and the gearbox stops working. One way out of such a specific situation is to use gearboxes with a built-in heating system.

What hoses and tubes to use for connections

According to the rules for the safe operation of gas equipment, it is not allowed to use oxygen and hydraulic hoses for laying gas pipelines. This is due to the high temperature difference between the transported gas and external environment, which leads to accelerated degradation of the hose material and the appearance of microscopic leaks. With the properties of liquefied gas to accumulate in rooms, such phenomena pose an increased danger.

There are three options for connecting a gas cylinder to a stove. The first is to use special flexible rubber hoses for flammable hydrocarbons. In this case, they are connected to the gearbox through a standard fitting with a screw clamp. The same fitting is installed on the inlet pipe of the gas stove, the hose is also connected to it with a clamp. If it is necessary to connect two pieces of hose, it is not allowed to use double-sided fittings, instead of them, threaded connectors with double crimping of the shank with clamps should be used. Distinctive feature such connections for gas pipelines are conical threads and the absence of elastic seals.

Connecting the plate to the cylinder using flexible hoses has a number of limitations. The length of the hose must not exceed 150 cm, its gasket must remain visible to constantly monitor the condition of the sheath and avoid damage. Some of the restrictions can be partially circumvented by using metal bellows hoses. They form a semi-rigid frame, which can have an almost unlimited length, while maintaining resistance to temperature effects and mechanical damage.

At the same time, safety rules prohibit the passage of flexible and semi-flexible ducts through walls where their condition cannot be visually assessed. If necessary, connect the stove with a cylinder installed outdoors, the hole in the wall should be on cement mortar the case from a steel pipe is immured. Inside the case is a steel tube of smaller diameter with threads at both ends, the space between the walls is filled with a plastic sealant, for example, mounting foam or silicone. The connection of bellows or flexible hoses must only be carried out through threaded adapters of the appropriate type.

Cranes and other fittings

A gas cock must be installed at the point where the gas pipeline is connected to the stove, blocking the gas supply in the event of a stove failure. It can be either a ball valve with a yellow handwheel or a plug gas valve. The disadvantage of the latter is the need for periodic maintenance.

Another useful addition to the gas pipeline can be a flow meter. Its inclusion in the transportation chain will help to respond in a timely manner to the exhaustion of the mixture in the cylinder and replace it. The metering device should not have the outstanding accuracy required to control gas consumption in main networks, a device worth up to 2 thousand rubles will be enough.

When connecting several cylinders at the same time, a connecting ramp can be used. Its installation helps to reduce the rate of gas evaporation from each cylinder and make the risk of freezing of the mixture in the reducer less likely. The installation of the ramp can be done independently with any material for the manufacture of the gas pipeline.

Refinement of the stove for bottled gas

Not every stove can initially run on liquefied gas. The main obstacle is the higher working pressure, due to which there is a lack of oxygen in the burners, which is expressed in the yellow color of combustion and the appearance of soot.

You can correct the situation by replacing the jets for methane with nozzles for LPG. They have exactly the same form factor, but the hole diameter is slightly smaller. If you plan to connect a new stove, it should most likely come with a set of jets for liquefied gas. If replacement jets are not available, they can be purchased at a reasonable price.

The diameter of the holes in the jets for liquefied gas depends on the pressure in the outgoing chamber of the reducer and the power of the burner. Thus, diameters of 0.43-0.6 mm for a pressure of 50 mbar and 0.5-0.75 for a pressure of 30 mbar are considered standard values for liquefied gas stoves. Individual slab manufacturers may set their own diameters and the use of nozzles with different orifice diameters may void the warranty.

Replacing jets can be done in two ways, depending on the design of the plate. In the simplest version, it is enough to remove the burner body and look inside the seat sleeve. If a jet is visible at the bottom - a hex head with a hole in the center - it is unscrewed socket wrench 7 or 8 mm and screw in the replacement nozzle. If a cone with a hole is visible inside, you will have to remove the top panel by unscrewing several bolts on the sides from different sides. The jet itself in this version of the design does not get out, it is pressed into the stuffing box seals. It is necessary to unclench the mustache of the compression coupling, move the nozzle down along with the inlet pipe, and then pull the jet from the landing fitting and install a new one.

Commissioning of the plant

The entire installation of the gas pipeline is carried out without connecting it to the cylinder. When the tubes or hoses are connected to the plate and interconnected, the reducer nut is screwed onto the cylinder valve and tightened. Then, if a flexible hose is used, it is put on the fitting and crimped with a clamp. If bellows tubes are selected, the nipple must be unscrewed from the gearbox housing and screwed into it with a threaded adapter of the appropriate size.

When the unit is assembled, you need to open the valve on the cylinder and, by turning the reducer regulator, set the required outlet pressure. When the gas has entered the pipe and hose system, each connection is thickly coated with soapy foam and checked for leaks. After the integrity of the gas pipeline is confirmed, you can open the stove tap and try to sequentially ignite the burners.

If each of them smokes or the flame burns in a color other than blue or greenish, it is necessary to reduce the pressure with a valve on the reducer. If the malfunction is typical only for some burners, then the jets for them are selected incorrectly. If the burner goes out in the minimum fire position, adjust the low flow screw on the stove tap or try to slightly increase the pressure with the reducer screw.

Then you need to connect a reducer to the cylinder. You also need to remember about the gasket. The outlet of the reducer with the fitting is connected by a gas hose.

The flexible hose used must be inspected. It is also necessary to monitor its condition throughout the operation of the gas stove. The hose must be tightly secured with clamps. All work must be carried out in accordance with applicable codes and regulations.

Flexible hose must meet the required requirements. He must constantly maintain the temperature. The hose must not heat up by more than 30°C. Its length should not exceed 1.5 meters. Be sure to check if the hose has constrictions. Do not bend or twist. During operation, the hose must not show cracks or burn marks. All the time of work, the material must be rigid and elastic. Mounting clamps must be free of rust. Particular attention must be paid to the life of the hose. Make sure it doesn't expire. If discrepancies are found, it must be replaced immediately.

It is forbidden to replace the gas stove connection hose with an oxygen or water hose. Their rubber quickly ages and becomes covered with cracks.

Factors for choosing a desktop gas stove

Any gas stove is designed to work with a certain type of gas: main or "balloon" (propane-butane and its mixtures). Typically, the stove is designed to be connected to the main gas. If there is no pipeline in your area or you are not connected to it, pay attention to the package bundle of the purchased device; a special jet adapter must “go” with it, which allows you to operate the stove when connected to a standard gas cylinder.

The second thing to look at is the design of the product. Enamelled plates are cheaper than those made of stainless steel. However, if it is planned to constantly take the device to the city, then it is still better to purchase a “stainless steel” plate - the enamel is often chipped off, and unprotected places quickly rust. In addition, stainless steel is easier to clean. The second point that determines the choice of design is the presence of a cover; it will be needed if the device is not used for a long time, otherwise the stove will have to be washed from dust at each visit. Many manufacturers offer stoves with electric ignition: you also need to pay attention to this. If there are interruptions in electricity, then it is better to refuse to buy such a device; as an alternative, you can purchase a device with piezo ignition.

Features of gas countertop stoves

Popular among summer residents are the so-called. universal plates; these devices have a pair of burners designed to connect bottled gas and one electric "pancake". A very handy thing if there are no power outages. For lovers of pies, you can advise a tabletop stove with an oven. There are two options here: the oven can run on gas or on electricity. In conclusion, it is worth noting that gas in the stove will be cheaper than using electricity.

Installation of gas equipment

For the normal functioning of the gas stove, it is necessary to choose the right place for installing the cylinder. It is better if it is on the street, but keep in mind that when negative temperatures gas evaporates very poorly, as a result of which the stove will not be able to work fully. For outdoor installation, the cylinder should be located no closer than 1 meter from doors and 0.2 meters from windows. If there is a basement or basement nearby, it is necessary to maintain a distance of 3 meters. The location of the gas cylinder must be protected from overheating (heating above + 45 ° C should not be allowed), therefore it is recommended to install the container in a special (preferably metal) cabinet.

If the cylinder is installed outdoors, then the gas wiring must be made through a metal pipe located at least 2.2 m from the ground. The cylinder itself and the gas stove are connected to the pipe with the help (they are yellow or the color of the same shade). The distance from the gas tank to the stove is no closer than 0.5 m, and the volume of the room where the stove is installed must be at least 8 cubic meters. m.

Connection

Gas stoves are designed for a certain pressure - 0.3 MPa. Because the pressure in the cylinder can be different; a reducer is used to equalize it. It is connected between the cylinder and the metal pipe. When connecting, pay attention to the presence of a special gasket and the thread of the gearbox - it is left-handed. When purchasing a gas stove, ask if it is designed for bottled gas. It's all about the diameter of the nozzles; for bottled gas, it should be 0.89-0.93 mm. However, a number of manufacturers complete their products with adapters that allow you to connect the stove to both main and bottled gas.

Reducer connected, hoses must be easily accessible. After the installation of the equipment is completed, it is necessary to check the tightness of the connections. To do this, coat all connecting points with soapy foam. When turning off the gas cylinder valve, inspect the entire “route”; a loose connection can be seen by emerging soap bubbles. There are also restrictions on the places of installation of gas cylinders and stoves: basements, cellars, other enclosed spaces with a level below the ground. It's connected with special property propane-butane mixture, which is heavier than air, accumulate in an unventilated area, which is fraught with poisoning or explosion.

Due to the rise in gasoline prices, many car owners began to equip their "iron horses" with gas-balloon equipment (HBO) in order to somehow save their finances. However, along with the new equipment, new troubles appeared - its maintenance and configuration. Therefore, today we decided to turn to the problem of adjusting the gas reducer. After all, this must be done not only immediately after installing HBO on a car, but also during the operation of this system.

The greater the mileage of HBO and the period of its operation, the more necessary this adjustment becomes. The fact is that over time, rubber elements - valves and membranes - can change their properties, which, in turn, leads to excessive gas consumption. Of course, such consequences can occur only after 3-4 years of operation (this is about 100,000 kilometers), but you should prepare for this in advance.

1. Adjustment of the gearbox: what is needed for adjustment?

Before starting to get acquainted with the main methods by which the gearbox is configured, it is necessary to familiarize yourself with this device and its main characteristics in more detail. After all, it is the gas reducer that performs the most important role in the normal functioning of HBO. What is its main task? It is thanks to this node that the driver of a car with LPG can lower the pressure of the gas that comes from the cylinder. At its core, this is a rather primitive pressure regulator, which allows you to independently maintain the same pressure indicator.

But, since nothing in this world is perfect, the pressure can still fluctuate slightly during operation of the gas reducer. In practice, it looks like this: when the gas flow is stable, the pressure also keeps at a given level, and when it starts to be consumed more intensively, the pressure may drop slightly. Although in general this process does not pose any danger, it is still necessary to know about it.

As we already noted in our introduction, gearbox adjustment is necessary during the installation of a new HBO on a car, as well as after its long-term operation. But in addition to these factors, the need for the frequency of adjustment and the features of performing this task is also associated with:

- the generation of gas-cylinder equipment and, accordingly, the gas reducer itself;

The number of regulators that are on the gas reducer;

The fuel system on which the car engine runs is gasoline or diesel.

The gas reducer contains membranes that can freeze at low temperatures. For this reason, the gearbox must be connected to the automotive cooling system. If we talk about the operation of this HBO element as a whole, then it is important to note the following point: it is impossible to start the gearbox simultaneously with the engine. First you need to wait until the engine temperature rises to 30-50 ° C, and after that you can put the gas reducer into operation.

The design of a conventional gas reducer is also straightforward. In particular, this device consists of the following parts:

- separate chambers, the number of which may vary depending on the type of gearbox (from 1 to 3);

Channel idle move;

Evaporator;

A control system that controls the supply of gas from cylinders to the combustion chamber of the engine.

But on modern HBO you can find two types of gearboxes. They have a number of very important differences between themselves, which, in particular, has a significant impact on the process of setting them up. Consider the features of each of them:

1. Vacuum reducer. To put such a reducer into operation, it is necessary to perform a number of mandatory actions:

- put the switch in the "Gas-Petrol" position;

Turn the key in the ignition;

Warm up the engine.

When the first two instructions are followed, the required amount of gas is injected into the intake manifold, which will then allow you to start the engine without problems and hit the road. The same is ensured through work.

2. Electronic device of the gas reducer. It turns on only in the position of the switch to the "Gas" position. Similar to a vacuum reducer, we start the ignition and give the starter the opportunity to work a little until it collects in the intake manifold required amount gas, and the device itself does not warm up to the desired temperature.

To properly set up a gas reducer, you need to understand absolutely everything in its settings. So, morepropane type gearboxes are characterized by two regulators, although there are a small number of models with one. And here methane analogues, on the contrary, almost always have only one regulator. It is the correct setting of the gas reducer regulator that is main problem for car owners.

Why are two regulators installed on gearboxes? The first one is the idle speed controller. In the process of setting up the device, we will need to screw it in until it stops. But the bottom one is sensitivity control. It is he who presses the diaphragm of the gearbox. Having become acquainted with this device in more detail, you can proceed directly to the configuration procedure.

And to the question of what you need to set up, the answer will be very simple - you need patience and a clear implementation of the instructions below. You should also not forget that you will have to work with gas equipment, so all your manipulations must be extremely careful. In the event that you do not feel enough self-confidence, it is best to seek help from a specialized car service.

2. Reducer adjustment methods

As we have already noted, there are electronic gas reducers and vacuum ones. Setting each of them has its own characteristics and differences, which is why we will consider the methods for adjusting each of them separately.

Electronic gas reducer - which tuning method to choose?

On this type of device, two types of settings must be applied:

1. Sensitivity adjustment, or pressure setting in the second stage.

2. Adjustment according to the amount of gas that moves through the idle channel.

But before proceeding with both, it is necessary to carry out a few more mandatory steps. First of all, we start the car engine on gasoline so that it can pre-warm up to operating temperature.In this case, idling is set between 950 and 1000 rpm. When the engine temperature reaches the required rate, turn off the supply of gasoline and let it work out the rest.

After that, we prepare the car for direct adjustment of the gas reducer:

- we turn the power register to the maximum indicator (in the event that a two-chamber dispenser is installed, then we open the first chamber completely, and the second - to a minimum);

We completely wrap the idle screw, after which we turn it off exactly 5 turns;

Set the sensitivity control to the middle position.

Well, first of all, let's start setting the idle speed. To do this, we start the car, but already on gas. Use suction and bring the engine to 1700-2000 rpm. Next, you need to simultaneously perform two actions at once: slightly remove the choke and rotate the idle speed control until you can find the position in which the largest number of starter revolutions occurs. At the same time, at the end of this procedure, the suction must be completely removed, and the car should begin to idle stably.

Having set the maximum number of starter revolutions using the idle speed regulator, gradually tighten the gas reducer sensitivity regulator. If during this procedure the number of revolutions begins to change, again try to bring them to the maximum using the idle speed control. If you can't do anything with this control, try tightening the sensitivity screw two turns and repeat the whole procedure again from the very beginning.

The goal you need to achieve is the maximum number of revolutions of the starter at idle (approximately 1100-1200 rpm), with the sensitivity regulator twisted almost to the end. But driving at such speeds is not recommended, since their value should be below the nominal rate. Therefore, we twist the idle speed controller again until the speed drops to 950-1100 rpm.

Now let's move on to setting the sensitivity of our gas reducer. Also, slowly turn off the sensitivity knob and watch how our actions affect the starter speed, which it carries out at idle. When we felt that the number of revolutions began to change, we twist the regulator back a little - about ¾-5/4 of a turn. Do not forget to also check the operation of the engine, for which you sharply press the gas pedal. If you did everything well, he will respond immediately and without jerks.

When adjusting the gearbox, it is very important not to forget to adjust the power register as well. To do this, it is necessary to bring the starter of the working engine to 3-3.5 thousand revolutions per minute, while simultaneously turning the power register regulator. This must be done until the starter speed starts to decrease. To make sure you get what you want, try moving the gas supply screw from place to place and unscrew it about ½-3/4 turn from the found position.

But do not howl that there are dispensers that consist of two sections. In this case, all the above actions must be applied only to the first camera, and the second should be set to only 25-30% of the first. Some gas reducers also have a 1st stage pressure setting option.

To carry out the adjustment, it is necessary to completely turn off the engine, shut off the line through which the gas flows, and connect the pressure gauge to the cavity of the first stage (it is advisable to use a pressure gauge with a scale of 1.5 kgf / cm2, and it is connected through a control hole, which is silenced with a regulator). After that, we again open the gas line, start the engine idling and bring the pressure of the first stage to 0.38-0.42 kgf / cm2.

Ideally, after adjusting the power register, the idle speed and sensitivity of the gas reducer should be adjusted again. Only after that you can proceed to the final setup stage, which consists of several steps:

1. Press the gas pedal very sharply.

2. We wrap the sensitivity knob by 0.25 turns until the speed starts to decrease very much.

3. We turn off the regulator by 0.5 turns and let the engine run a little, carefully monitoring the stability of this process.

What you need to know about setting up a vacuum gas reducer?

Vacuum-type gas reducers can also be configured in two ways:

1. Setting the sensitivity and idling of the gas reducer can be carried out separately.

2. Setting the sensitivity and idling of the gas reducer can be carried out simultaneously.

As for the first tuning method, it is no different from the process of adjusting the electronic gas reducer, which we have already described above. For this reason, we will look at how to combine these processes.

First of all, we take up idling. To do this, we start the car, but immediately on gas, and not on gasoline. Again, with the help of suction, we equalize the engine speed to the amount of 1700-2000 per minute. Slowly remove the suction and with the help of the idle speed controller we achieve maximum value the number of revolutions of the starter (at the end, the suction must be completely removed). With the help of the regulator, we achieve the intensity of revolutions in the range of 1000-1100 rpm and already at the end we set the norm - 950-1100 rpm, screwing the regulator a little more.

The setting of the power register of the vacuum reducer is almost the same as its setting on the electronic prototype. In particular, you need to do the following:

- start the engine at idle;

We set the intensity to 3000-3500 rpm;

We twist the regulator until the speed starts to fall;

We try to adjust the register regulator, trying all the values;

We turn off the register regulator by 0.5-0.75 turns, and also slightly adjust the idle speed.

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Centralized heating, unfortunately, is not available everywhere. In this case, either a stove or a gas cylinder can save. For a summer residence, this option is optimal. However, this device also has its own characteristics.

Advantages

A gas cylinder for a summer residence has some advantages:

- Ease of use and replacement.

- Mobility. Naturally, there are certain rules for installing the apparatus, but in general it is not limited to one place, like a boiler.

- Various types of containers. Depending on the purpose for which the device will be used (cooking, heating), you can purchase one or another cylinder (5, 16, 18 or 50 liters).

- Possibility of refilling the tank.

As you can see, even in the absence of centralized heating, a gas cylinder in the country can make life comfortable and convenient.

Device disadvantages

They are not particularly numerous, but significant:

1. First of all, you need to pay attention to the fact that such devices may leak gas.

2. Use of force when installing the gearbox. In addition, it must be connected correctly. Otherwise, the gas may gradually escape from the tank, filling the building. Naturally, in this case, an explosion may occur.

3. Relatively high cost. For an 18-liter bottle, you can pay about 1800 rubles.

4. You cannot independently control the pressure in the tank.

In order for these shortcomings not to complicate your life, you need to choose, store and connect the device correctly. Only in this case, the gas cylinder for giving will work for a long time and properly.

How to choose a device?

This question is also very important. The choice and installation of a gas cylinder in the country should be made according to certain criteria:

- Dimensions. If there is not much space in the country, then it is better to choose a small cylinder of 5 liters. If the area allows, then you can install a gas stove with a large capacity.

- Seller's license. Since this device is considered potentially dangerous to life and health, it is not recommended to buy it in the yard or in the basement. It is better to purchase a device from a company that sells and services cylinders.

- Container material. More familiar to us is a metal cast-iron body. However, it is not as good as it seems. The fact is that it has a lot of weight, it can rust. A new option is a composite balloon. It has high strength, low weight, transparent walls (this allows you to see the amount of fuel left). However, such containers are quite expensive, so not everyone can afford it.

Features of refueling capacity

Before starting the process, it is necessary to prepare the container for it. First, make sure that it really ran out of gas. After all, the fact that fuel does not flow to the stove may be due to a breakdown of the gearbox. To check, pay attention to the readings of the manometer. The fact that there is no gas in the tank is indicated by a pressure of 4 atmospheres and below. In addition, you can find out the amount of fuel inside the cylinder by measuring its mass.

Now it is necessary to remove condensate from it, which contributes to the destruction of metal walls. This should be done with extreme caution. For the procedure, the container must be taken out to open area. Please note that when removing the gearbox, a spark may occur, followed by an explosion. Therefore, this element must be grounded.

After the reducer is removed, leave the cylinder for several hours to ventilate the residual gas. After that, turn the container over so that the water pours out. Only after these actions can refueling of gas cylinders for summer cottages be carried out. You can do this at a regular gas station or in a special company. You can call specialists at home or you can deliver the container to them yourself.

After the refueling of gas cylinders for giving is carried out, you can return them home and connect again.

How to properly store the device?

Since it is considered a source of explosion hazard, this issue should be approached as seriously as possible. The device must not be stored in a residential building. Conditions should be as suitable as possible: allowed humidity level (no more than 60%, no source of open flame or spark).

It is best if you put the cylinder in a metal cabinet. In this case, the gearbox must be closed with a special casing. The closet should be located at least five meters from the house.

If you store the cylinder outdoors, then it must be protected from direct sunlight and rain. However, it must be correct. There must be no damage to the container. There must be a residual pressure inside it (not less than 0.05 MPa).

Device connection

This procedure requires maximum concentration, responsibility and caution. It provides for a certain sequence of actions:

1. First, collect the necessary tools and materials: a wrench, a gas hose, a fitting with a clamp, a reducer, water solution soap.

2. If the cylinder will be connected to the stove, then special nozzles must be installed on it.

3. Now you need to connect the gas hose. Its length must necessarily be 1.5 meters longer than the distance from the container to the stove. Naturally, while winding the hose onto the inlet pipe, the thread should be carefully sealed.

4. Fastening the reducer to the cylinder. It is best if the connection is threaded. This will prevent leakage. Next, a hose is connected to the gearbox using a fitting and a clamp.

5. Checking the fasteners. To do this, unscrew the gas supply valve and lubricate the connections with soapy water. If bubbles do not form, then everything is in order, all fasteners are reliable. Otherwise, they should be further insulated.

As you can see, connecting a gas cylinder in the country is not a difficult process. However, if you do not know how to do this, then you should not take risks. In this case, it is better to entrust the installation of the tank to a specialist. That's all. May your home be warm and cozy.

ATTENTION! This material is about connecting bottled gas in the country with your own hands may not be a reference or methodological material , as it may contain errors and violations of existing norms. Please contact the gas service or certified professionals for any advice on connecting bottled gas to your home.

Yes, I'm serious: liquefied bottled gas is a serious and dangerous thing - check everything with specialized specialists several times before connecting bottled gas in your home. The gas becomes dangerous when it mixes with air and accumulates in any enclosed space. Therefore, all existing norms for laying gas pipelines provide for open laying of gas pipes at a height so that the gas has time to disperse by the wind before it reaches the ground (gas is heavier than air). Gas pipes must be solid or welded - and must withstand fire in case of fire. Therefore, it is unacceptable to use for piping gas to the house plastic pipes or metal-plastic. Ideal pipe for gas - bellows (corrugated) stainless steel pipe. Gas cylinders must be certified in the gas service, without corrosion and damage. The safest type of steel cylinder is with a valve instead of a valve. There are also explosion-proof fiberglass cylinders made in Norway or Sweden (there are also domestic ones - Nizhny Novgorod). Such gas cylinders release gas when heated, melt in a fire and do not explode.

Let's see how we connected bottled gas in a country house. I repeat once again: do not copy what has been done: the work on connecting bottled gas in the country house was performed by a non-professional at your own peril and risk, with possible violations and errors. To connect your home, contact the gas service.

The rules for laying external and internal gas pipelines, the installation of individual gas-cylinder installations for residential buildings are regulated by the updated (updated) SNiP 42-01-2002 in the form of a set of rules SP 62.13330.2011* "Gas distribution systems". So, let's see what are the requirements for individual gas-cylinder installations with LPG (from liquefied at hydrocarbon G basics) for individual residential buildings, what should be the external and internal gas pipelines, and in which rooms it is allowed to place gas appliances and apparatus.

So, individual (up to two gas cylinders) LPG cylinder units are now can be placed both outside and inside buildings[P. 8.2.5 SP 62.13330.2011]. It is allowed to place cylinders with a volume of not more than 0.05 m (50 l) in apartments of a residential building(no more than one bottle per apartment) no more than two stories high(without basement and basement floors). However, the admissibility of placing gas cylinders in a house or apartment, as is often the case in the "legislative mess" of the Russian Federation, is contrary to paragraph 91 Government Decree (PP) of the Russian Federation No. 390 "On the fire regime":Do not store flammable gas cylinders in individual residential buildings, apartments and living rooms, as well as in kitchens, escape routes, stairwells, basement floors, basements and attics, balconies and loggias. At the same time, paragraph 92 of the RF PP No. 390 provides that 1 cylinder with a volume of not more than 5 liters, connected to a factory-made gas stove can be used in a house or apartment. According to paragraph 94 of the same resolution, a warning sign should be placed at the entrance to buildings where there are gas cylinders fire safety with an inscription "Flammable. Gas cylinders."

But... I would I did not recommend storing and even more so using gas cylinders in an apartment, even in a two-story house: By limiting the number of floors in buildings in which gas bottles can be used in apartments, legislators simply limited the number of potential victims in the event of a gas bottle explosion or gas leak at night. It is known that the explosion of one gas cylinder with a volume of 50 liters in a building creates an overpressure of approximately 12.5 kPa, which is classified as sufficient to cause moderate damage (significant damage to load-bearing structural elements, partial destruction of walls and ceilings of buildings)[ Karibyants V.R. , Nadezhdin A.V. On the question of the methodology for assessing the degree of destruction of a multi-storey residential building during an explosion natural gas in one of the rooms. // Bulletin of the Astrakhan State Technical University, 2004 - No. 4 (20). - P. 35-39].

In the United States, such dangerous stupidity as the use and storage of gas cylinders inside the house is not allowed: according to clause 3-2.2.1 of the NFPA 58 (National Fire Protection Association) code, gas cylinders used must be located exclusively on the street, with the exception of gas cylinders of car fuel systems in garages, gas cylinders for equipment used in repair and construction work in the house during repair or construction and empty cylinders for exchange, sale or disposal and unused cylinders limited to no more than 1.1 liters, pending use, stored in accordance with special storage conditions. Perhaps due to sensible American legislation, we rarely hear about gas cylinder explosions in US residential buildings. In Russia, thanks to the liberal requirements for the storage and use of gas cylinders in houses and apartments, people often do not even understand the degree of danger to which they expose themselves and their neighbors thanks to such "kind" officially approved Russian standards. It is not for nothing that the news is constantly covered by stories about the explosions of gas cylinders and significant destruction in residential buildings in Russia.

Rules for the storage of gas cylinders in buildings in accordance with the requirements of chapter 5 of the US code NFPA 58:
- gas cylinders may be stored exclusively in non-residential, little-used, well-ventilated areas away from doors, stairs and any mechanical and electrical potential sources of sparks.
- all valves of gas cylinders must be closed and protective caps must be screwed onto the outlet gas fittings until they stop on the thread.
- in residential and public premises it is allowed to store gas cylinders with a volume of not more than 1.1 liters. The total volume of gas cylinders cannot exceed 91 liters.
- gas cylinders located on the street should be located no closer than 6.1 meters from the entrance to the building.

According to Russian fire regulations gas cylinders can be located outside buildings in extensions (cabinets or under casings covering the upper part of the cylinders and the gearbox) made of non-combustible materials near a blank wall pier at a distance of at least 5 meters from the entrances to the building, ground and basement floors [p. 92 RF PP No. 390]. These norms are contradicted by the recommendations of SP 62.13330.2011, which state that individual LPG cylinder installations should be placed outside at a horizontal distance of at least 0.5 m from window openings and 1.0 m from doorways the first floor, at least 3.0 m from the door and window openings of the basement and basement floors, as well as sewer wells. It is not allowed to place an LPG cylinder installation at emergency exits, from the side of the main facades of buildings. I would recommend focusing on the time-tested (used with regular revisions since 1943) American NFPA 58 standards, which regulate the minimum safe distance from the installation site of LPG gas cylinders before entering the building at least 6.1 m, before windows and air vents - 1 m (91 cm), to ventilation and air conditioning devices - 1.5 m, to flammable materials - 3 meters.

Although, as we found out, it is better not to keep gas cylinders indoors due to safety reasons, Russian standards describe the rules for placing gas cylinders in residential buildings (clause 8.2.6 of SP 62.13330.2011): at least 0.5 m from the gas stove(excluding built-in cylinders) and 1 m - from heating devices. When installing a screen between the cylinder and the heater, the distance may be reduced to 0.5 m. The screen must be made of non-combustible materials and protect the cylinder from thermal exposure heater. When installing an LPG cylinder outdoors, it should be protected from transport damage and heating above 45 °C.
It is not allowed to install LPG cylinders:
- in living rooms and corridors;
- in basement and basement rooms and attics;
- in rooms without natural light;
- in premises located in, under and above the dining and trading halls of enterprises Catering;
audiences and classrooms, visual (assembly) halls of buildings, hospital wards, etc. [P. 8.2.7 SP 62.13330.2011]. Once again I repeat my personal opinion and the requirements of American standards - there should not be any gas cylinders in living quarters, except for microballoons with a volume of up to 1.1 liters, the explosion of which will not lead to death and collapse of building structures, and gas leakage will not create lethal concentrations!

Requirements for external and internal gas pipelines (pipelines for the vapor phase of LPG).

According to the requirements of SP 42-102-2004 "Design and construction of gas pipelines from metal pipes" (clause 5. 8), gas pipelines along the walls of buildings are recommended lay without disturbing the architectural elements of the facade at a height that provides the possibility of inspection and repair of gas pipelines and excludes the possibility of their mechanical damage. In places where people pass, it is recommended to lay gas pipelines at a height of 2.2 m (paragraph 5. 13). True, this requirement applies to the laying of a gas pipeline on supports. However, the less people have the opportunity to influence the gas pipeline (fall on it, accidentally hit it with a stone or a shovel, drop a burning object on it), the more the gas pipeline will be safe.

According to the provisions of paragraph 4.3 of SP 62.13330.2011, for external and internal laying of a gas pipeline from an LPG cylinder installation, with a reducer installed on a gas cylinder, which lowers the gas pressure from 0.1 mPa to 2-3 thousandths of a mPa, steel pipes (seamless or electric-welded), copper, multilayer polymer and polyethylene pipes reinforced with fibers or steel mesh frame. Polymer (polyethylene) pipes are recommended for underground installation. According to the requirements of the NFPA 58 code, the minimum depth of penetration of polymer pipes into the ground to prevent their damage is 48 cm. For open outdoor laying, polymer pipes of gas pipelines are not recommended, as they can easily be damaged by heating, rodents or intruders. American codes require non-breakable polymer pipes to be encased in steel pipe for outdoor installation. Steel pipes must be protected from corrosion in accordance with the requirements of SP 42-102-2004 "Design and construction of gas pipelines from metal pipes." The external laying of gas pipelines must be seamless. Ideally, from the LPG gas cylinder installation to the gas appliance in the house, there should be an unbreakable pipeline with shut-off valves and protective valves (optionally - according to the vertical position, temperature, gas flow) located at the cylinder and at the gas appliance. It is not allowed to install locking devices when laying gas pipelines along the walls of the building.

Connections of gas pipeline pipes should be provided as one-piece. Detachable connections are allowed at installation sites technical devices[clause 5.1.4 of SP 62.13330.2011]. For internal gas pipelines in buildings, it is allowed to make gas pipe connections: for steel pipes- butt and overlap welding, for copper pipes - soldering and pressing, for metal-polymer pipes - press compression. It is not allowed to place gas pipeline connections of any kind in walls, ceilings, structures, in places with limited visibility and access.

The entry of the gas pipeline into the house must be carried out directly into the room in which the gas-using equipment is installed, or into the room adjacent to it, connected by an open opening [clause 5.1.6 of SP 62.13330.2011]. In places where the gas pipeline enters the house, the pipes must be enclosed in a case (sleeve). The ends of the case at the points of entry and exit of the gas pipeline from the ground, the gap between the gas pipeline and the case at the entrances of the gas pipeline to buildings should be sealed with elastic material for the entire length of the case [clause 5.1.4 of SP 62.13330.2011]. In single-family or semi-detached houses, it is even allowed to introduce gas into the basement or basement. I would not conduct such experiments, remembering that this norm is due to the principle of limiting human casualties - the gas is heavier than air (the propane phase of steam is 1.5 times heavier than air, and the butane phase is 2 times heavier) and accumulates in depressions without a chance for weathering, and a mixture of natural gas at a concentration of 5-15% with air is an extremely explosive mixture. A person begins to perceive the smell of gas at its concentration in the atmosphere of about 1%. Fortunately, when we are talking about basements and plinths, domestic standards require their mandatory equipment with gas control systems and fire safety. Premises in the house in which pressure control devices, gas flow meters and detachable connections are installed must be protected from access by unauthorized persons. In the gas boiler house of a residential building, a carbon monoxide sensor must be provided with the issuance of sound and light signals, as well as with automatic shutdown of the gas supply to gas-using equipment. In general, for the safe gasification of buildings, as a rule, it is necessary to provide for the installation of protective fittings on gas pipelines to automatically turn off the gas supply in case of emergency:
- when the permissible maximum gas flow rate is exceeded;
- when hazardous concentrations of gas or carbon monoxide appear in a gasified room;
- when signs of fire appear in the gasified room (thermo-stop gas valve) [Clause 7.12 of SP 62.13330.2011].

Inside the building, gas pipelines can be made of metal pipes (steel and copper) and heat-resistant (!) multilayer polymer pipes, including, among other things, one metal layer (metal-polymer). Pipes for the vapor phase of natural gases (after the gas cylinder reducer) inside the building are allowed to be produced as open way and with laying in a strobe, provided there are no pipe connections. When laying hidden gas pipelines from steel and copper pipes, it is necessary to provide additional measures to protect them from corrosion, to ensure ventilation of the channel gates and access to the gas pipeline during operation. Hidden laying of gas pipelines from multilayer metal-polymer pipes should be carried out with subsequent plastering of the walls. The pipes in the strobe must be laid in a monolithic or free way (subject to the measures taken to seal the strobe). In places where pipes pass through the building structures of the building, pipes should be laid in cases [clause 7.5 of SP 62.13330.2011]. It is recommended to lay gas pipelines at a distance of at least 50 cm from any type of openings.

Both LPG gas cylinders themselves and gas appliances can be connected to gas pipelines with flexible hoses that are resistant to the transported gas at a given pressure and temperature, including heat-resistant flexible multilayer polymer pipes reinforced with synthetic threads, subject to confirmation in in due course their suitability for use in construction [clause 7.3 of SP 62.13330.2011]. Paragraph 7.6 allows the transit laying of a gapless internal gas pipeline exclusively in an open way through residential premises (something that I would not do either). The use of gas-using equipment in residential premises is not allowed - that is, for example, using gas convectors for heating bedrooms is unacceptable.

Paragraph 95 of the RF PP No. 390 prohibits when using household gas appliances:
but) operate household gas appliances in the event of a gas leak;
b) attach parts of gas fittings using a sparking tool;
in) check the tightness of connections using open flame sources, including matches, lighters, candles. (Check the threaded connections of the gas lines with soapy water, shampoo or shaving foam).

So, we connect a gas stove in the kitchen to bottled gas. For the connection we use Kolfuso seamless stainless steel bellows pipe in plastic. The gas pipe will go to the cabinet with gas cylinders without breaks. The advantage of the Colfuso pipe: resistance to corrosion, no need for welding, flexibility (can be bent in one place up to 100 times), fire resistance. Such a pipe costs about 120 rubles per meter. Safety and reliability are worth the money.

Entering the pipe into the room is made in the kitchen a few meters from the gas stove. The supply of the gas pipe to the stove is made under the table top with access to the gas stove through the adjacent cabinet to protect the gas pipe from heating by the oven installed under the gas surface. Additional plot gas pipeline will be protected by basalt wool in foil. This will be done because we have checked that the section of the gas pipe adjacent to the oven heats up sufficiently during the operation of the oven.

In order for the gas stove to work with bottled gas, it is necessary to replace nozzles (jets) with a large hole diameter in the stove with jets with a small nozzle diameter. IN Soviet time when there was nothing to buy, the jets were caulked (flattened with a hammer) to reduce the size of the jet nozzle. Gas nozzles (jets) for bottled gas have smaller openings than nozzles for main gas. The larger the burner on the gas stove, the larger the hole in the jet. For bottled gas (propane), jets for a gas stove are suitable minimum size- 44, 50 - for small burners and 68, 70 for large burners on gas stoves.Using a fitting with dielectric gaskets, the bellows pipe is connected to the gas stove. In our case, the gas line is connected to the cylinder through a rubber hose. If the entire gas line is metal, then when connecting the stove to the line, a dielectric gasket is required - so that static electricity cannot reach the gas cylinder through the metal pipe. We will additionally have a section with a rubber hose for connecting to a gas cylinder. The fewer threaded connections on the gas line, the higher the reliability of the system as a whole. To seal threaded connections for connecting gas appliances and valves, fum tape or flax with Multipack paste is used.Standard paste for water seals - Unipack is not suitable for gas lines. For outdoor installation, we enclose the Kolfuso seamless bellows pipe in an additional protective corrugated duct and thermal insulation. It is not necessary to do this - the gas main must be accessible for review and provide for gas weathering in the event of a leak.The gas main must be laid along the facade at a height of at least 2.2 meters (so that it is not damaged by people and the gas, in case of a possible leak, would be carried by the wind and not accumulate in the relief). The gas line must be accessible for inspection. We install a steel cabinet for gas cylinders on the northern wall of a house with a small number of windows. The cabinet will be installed on a raised platform so that if a leak occurs, the gas will be able to disperse. The basis for the foundation are metal pipes, hammered to a depth of 2 m. At the same time, one of the pipes will be the grounding of the cabinet for gas cylinders.The grounding of the gas cylinder cabinet will be connected through a double steel strip of mounting tape. We paint the junctions of the tape and the pole. We reinforce the base with two-layer reinforcement (from the waste of the armature - there will be no loads here.Finished casting of the foundation for the gas cabinet. Section 3-2.4.1 of NFPA 58 provides for the installation of gas cylinders on a solid, stable foundation, or securing them to prevent them from tipping over. For additional safety, it is recommended to install safety shut-off valves on gas cylinders that shut off the gas supply in case of capsizing. With the help of porcelain stoneware, we create gaps to divert possible gas leakage from under the bottom of the steel cabinet for gas cylinders. From the installation site of the gas cabinet to dry grass, branches, brushwood, firewood and any other flammable material must be at least 3 meters. Smoking is prohibited within a radius of 7 meters from the gas cabinet. The gas cabinet must be affixed with a sticker warning "Do not smoke! Flammable" [clause 6107.2 of the International Building Code ICC] or "Flammable. Gas" in accordance with clause 93 of RF PP No. 390.Now a small ode to the domestic business about steel cabinets for gas cylinders. The situation with steel cabinets for gas cylinders (at least in St. Petersburg) is a complete mess. For 2500-3500 rubles domestic producers offer what can rather be called not a "steel cabinet", but a metal cover for gas cylinders. Steel - from 0.5 to 0.9 mm thick and of the worst quality (it rusts instantly). I was lucky - and I bought a cabinet of powder (albeit hacky) coloring. Many sell cabinets in the ground for the same money. I immediately painted over the bottom of this wonderful cabinet swaying in the wind with Hammerite. Then you have to paint the whole cabinet - the slightest scratches immediately rust.

Once again - I bought best closet for gas cylinders from those on the market Saint Petersburg. This cabinet, unlike analogues from manufacturers without any conscience and concepts, at least had ventilation holes in the walls and in the bottom. Other cabinets did not have such openings. As they explained to me in one of the Lengazapparat (!) stores - "our closet has gaps - and so everything is ventilated." By the way, through the winter this cabinet also rusted - it had to be completely painted with Hammerite.

In general: if someone starts making cabinets from good thick steel, with proper ventilation, well-painted, with a ground terminal and priced up to 4000 rubles - financial success awaits. Or turn to the Chinese again? ( 中国使煤气瓶一个很好的内阁 )

Yes, the cabinet for gas cylinders is attached to the foundation with self-tapping screws from the wind and lovers of other people's cabinets.

The bellows pipe is introduced into the cabinet for gas cylinders through a hole in the rear wall (with a gasket of elastic polypropylene mounting tape). We assemble a unit with a shut-off gas valve and a fitting for switching to a gas hose. The hose plays the role of an additional dielectric gasket. Saving 30 rubles on a hose is also not worth it: a multilayer high-quality frost- and UV-resistant Austrian Semperit gas hose costs 50 rubles per meter. Section 2-4.6.3 of NFPA 58 prohibits the use of non-branded gas hoses (i.e., manufactured by who knows who, who knows where, who knows how).Now about the gearboxes: this is an inexpensive, but very important joke that reduces the pressure from a gas cylinder to a safe one (0.0015-0.003 MPa \u003d 1.5-3.0 kPa). Baltika reducer (on the left) costs two hundred rubles. This is a regulator for a gas cylinder with a valve. It is fixed on the balloon with three spring-loaded balls. There are also "Belarusian" (or actually Chinese?) "Frog" type gearboxes for valve cylinders for the same two hundred rubles. On the right is an Italian (most likely Italian) gearbox costing about 350-400 rubles with a working outlet pressure of 3 kPa (30 mbar). Most importantly, the connection of the reducer to the cylinder is provided by a fitting with a threaded connection. This type of gearbox is much safer. Most gas accidents are due to leaks in faulty regulators. Gas cylinders with a valve are much less safe cylinders, compared to cylinders with a valve, both during operation and during transportation. And yet, since the quality of our gas is Russian, a fair amount of liquid gas condensate (3-5 liters) will gradually accumulate in the cylinder. With a valve gas cylinder, you will not be able to drain it and will regularly donate your money to gas station refuellers. The valve bottle can be emptied of condensate (after depressurizing) by turning the bottle upside down and opening the valve in a well ventilated area free of flames and sparks. And by the way, do not go to pay for gas until the tanker shows you the weight of the cylinder without gas and the weight of the cylinder with gas. And you know ... Well, in general, everything is as usual with us ...Not all gas reducers are equally useful: on the left is a gas reducer, which is very likely Italian. Right: an adjustable gas reducer that is definitely not Italian. The most dangerous thing about this gearbox is the steel nut instead of the bronze one. If you are using a steel wrench to tighten a threaded connection, the impact of the wrench steel against the nut steel may generate a spark. Striking steel on bronze produces no spark. Also, the thickness of the fitting at the "left" gearbox is much less - which means there is a higher probability of gas leakage. On the left - an imitation "grid" made of plastic on the "left" gas reducer. Right - quality steel mesh Italian gas reducer.The "left" gas reducer is characterized by low quality of manufacture and assembly. Company store salesperson gas equipment, where I purchased the gearbox, looking into my eyes I swore that both gearboxes were "firm" and "not ketai". The "left" gearbox is more expensive))). The Italian gas reducer is equipped with detailed instruction for installation in several languages.We pull the gas hose onto the fitting and fix it with a clamp with a worm gear. To facilitate the tension of the gas hose, lubricate the fitting with clean tap water. If the reducer and hose are branded, you will have to exert force to connect the hose to the reducer.The Italian gas reducer does not require the installation of a paronite gasket: there is not even room for it. The reducer is installed on the gas cylinder in a strictly horizontal position (the membrane is vertically up).In our cabinet for liquefied bottled gas, two gas bottles of 27 liters will be installed. This is the most convenient size of a gas cylinder in terms of resource / transportation ratio for a male owner. For a woman, gas cylinders are needed smaller and lighter (13 liters). In 2013, the cost of refueling a 27-liter gas cylinder is 280 rubles. We have selected the correct size of the nozzles: this is evidenced by the nature of the flame on the gas burners of the stove: the flame of blue color without red or orange tabs and does not come off the burner nozzles. Keep in mind the peculiarity of gas stoves with gas control and electric ignition: the handle should be kept pressed during ignition for at least 5-7 seconds - otherwise the gas control will stop the gas supply, since the sensor thermocouple will not have time to heat up.If your gas stove is already connected, then you can see the table how much you need to cook various products. For example, shrimp, so that they do not become "rubber". And here you can see how we
































I repeat once again: don't copy what you've done- work on connecting bottled gas in the country is completely non-professional at your own peril and risk, with violations and errors. To connect bottled gas to a gas stove, contact a certified specialist or gas service.