How to make a bucket with your own hands from tin. How to make the perfect galvanized pipe with your own hands: step-by-step instructions Work on tin at home

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The first galvanized sheet rolled off the assembly line of one of the British factories back in 1867. True, at that time the metal was covered exclusively with gold and silver. But before the First World War, the production of parts with protective layer made of zinc, and since then they have been incredibly popular.

This is not surprising - zinc prolongs the life of iron by 20-30 times. Products made of galvanized steel are durable, do not give in to rust, and behave in everyday life no worse than stainless steel, although they are much cheaper.

In today's article, I propose to pay more attention to this modest material and tell you how to make a galvanized pipe with your own hands.

Galvanization is primarily steel, a material that has many undeniable advantages.

These include:

Strength;
Ability to withstand high temperatures;
Excellent thermal conductivity;
Low cost compared to other materials.

But without protective coating ferrous metal is subject to corrosion, quickly rusts and becomes unusable. Galvanizing successfully solved this problem. And, despite the fact that galvanized and steel pipes are the same in shape, a galvanized product has a number of advantages.

Additional advantages of a galvanized product:

Corrosion resistance, the ability to withstand negative environmental influences;
Extended service life;
Increased strength;
Wide operating temperature range;
High resistance to mechanical stress;
Galvanized pipe withstands high internal and external pressure;
Simplicity and convenience of installation;
High fire resistance;
Zinc kills all pathogenic microorganisms;
Galvanization is practically not inferior in quality to low-alloyed stainless steel, but it costs an order of magnitude cheaper.

But like any engineering solution, galvanized iron pipeline is not ideal.

Product disadvantages:

Not a very attractive design;
Expensive compared to conventional steel;
Zinc complicates the welding process;
Unlike plastic, in the presence of protrusions on the walls, it is almost impossible to ensure a smooth transition to structures made of galvanized pipes.

Do it yourself or order

What is better, buy a galvanized sheet of the desired thickness and bend the pipe yourself, or go to the store and buy a finished product?

As usual, let's start with the price. A finished pipe with a diameter of 100 mm and a length of 3 meters will cost you and me about 500 rubles.

The cost of the material in this case is 150 rubles, the rest is labor costs and the seller's margin.

And if you plan to organize an entire drainage system? You see, overpay for finished goods will have to 2.5-3 times. Self-manufacturing pipes will greatly ease the financial burden.

In addition, factory products have strictly defined dimensions, and sometimes it is difficult to choose the right one for your system. And the thickness of the finished pipe usually does not exceed 1mm.

It must be remembered that any factory product, unlike home-made, passes strict quality control control, has a perfectly round surface and the accuracy of the weld.

Can House master to ensure compliance with all these conditions is far from a fact.

What material to choose

If it was decided to make the part on our own, you should start with the choice of material, in our case, a galvanized sheet of the required thickness.

Material characteristics

Sheet steel coated with zinc at the factory must comply with GOST 14918-80. The main characteristics that you should pay attention to when choosing:

Sheet thickness

The most common galvanized thicknesses are from 0.35 to 3mm. The thinner the sheet, the easier it is to process, which is important for the manufacture of products at home. But do not forget - less thickness - less strength.

Thickness of zinc coating

There are 3 classes of material, according to the thickness of the zinc coating layer. We summarize the data in a table for convenience.

GOST allows some deviations in thickness and the presence of some defects

Marking:

HP - normal thickness variation;
UR - reduced thickness variation.

Options appearance sheet:

KR - With patterns of crystallization (some cracks and darkening);
MT - without patterns.

An important characteristic for the manufacture of pipes is the ability of a metal sheet to be drawn:

H - normal drawing;
G - deep drawing;
VG - very deep drawing.

VG marking steels have the highest ductility, H - respectively, the lowest.

What you need to work

After acquiring a sheet with the necessary characteristics, you should stock up on the necessary inventory.

Required tools:

Metal scissors. choose handy tool for cutting a wide sheet of metal;
Hand jackhammer (aka mallet) with a rubber or wooden tip. The mallet should be hard, heavy, but without sharp edges;
Steel pipe billet for forming the body of the pipe ("gun"). Its length is at least 1 meter, its diameter depends on the required diameter of the finished product;
Ruler;
Tool for marking galvanizing (sharp metal rod);
Workbench. At the corner of the table-workbench there should be a metal corner, at least 1 m long. It will be used to bend the edges of the pipe, so it must be fixed very securely;
Pliers.

DIY step-by-step instructions for making a galvanized pipe

Size calculation

A standard sheet of galvanized sheet has dimensions of 1000x2000mm or 1250x2500mm, although other cuts can be found.

The width of the workpiece is calculated by the formula:

L (circumference, it is also the width of the workpiece) \u003d 2 * 3.14 * R (R is the required pipe radius, mm).

Thus, for the manufacture of a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, you need a blank with a width

2×3.14×50mm = 314mm.

We add a bend of 15mm to the resulting finishing length and get the required value for cutting -300mm.

An important point - the width of the workpiece - the value is not constant. On the one hand, it is equal to 330mm, on the other 340 (for a pipe and a diameter of 100mm). This is done for the convenience of subsequent installation of pipes with each other or with other elements of the system.

Drawing and scheme

Rice. 1. Sheet pattern for a pipe with a diameter of 100mm.

The fold formation scheme is as follows:

Cutting out a workpiece

After calculation required dimensions a blank of the future product is cut out. For this:

A sheet of tin is laid out on a horizontal surface, marking is applied in even lines, strictly according to the dimensions of the semi-finished product.

For a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, along one edge of the sheet, segments of 340 and 330 mm are measured one after another (see Fig. 1). The same segments, but in the opposite sequence, are marked on the opposite side. All perpendicular lines should be drawn with a square.

Do not forget to add 15-20mm to the width of the product for the bend!

Tin is cut into rectangles according to the drawing.

Profile formation

The resulting rectangular blanks must be "turned" into a pipe. To do this, we will form its profile.

Profile formation steps:

Two lines are drawn along the entire length of the workpiece, with an indent of 5 mm from one edge and 10 mm from the other. These lines are the borders of the bend of the folds.

Under the seam or seam lock in our case is meant the type of connection of the edges of the pipe;

We bend the edges along the marked line, strictly at an angle of 90 0. We use a metal corner for this, combining the fold line with the edge of the corner. We start with pliers, continue with a mallet;
We pass with a hammer along the entire length, gradually forming the future seam;
On a fold 10 mm wide, we make another bend in the shape of the letter G. The width of the upper bar is 5 mm, the location is strictly parallel to the workpiece;
After the formation of the folds, we proceed to the pipe body. We lay the workpiece on the gun and with the help of a hammer we give the sheet a round shape.

Seam processing

The final stage is the processing (crimping) of the butt joint. To do this, bend the upper part of the L-shaped fold down, wrapping the opposite edge with it. The result is a fold of several layers of metal, which must be pressed against the pipe along its entire length.

In the factory, additional strength is given to the seam with special metal rivets.

For handmade items additional processing not required.

Manufacturing video

Check out useful videos on this topic.

Pipe manufacturing:

Inserting a pipe into a plane:

For the convenience of connecting the finished pipe with other elements of the system, it is necessary to make a socket at the end of the product.

How to make a socket on a galvanized metal pipe

A bell is a technological extension designed for the convenience of mounting elements of communication with each other and tie-in in a plane. The socket on the finished pipe is made along a wide edge, by flaring the edge to a depth of 15-20mm. In the factory, a special tool is used for flaring - a flaring cone.

At home, you can expand the edge of the pipe yourself, using pliers. Ideally, install special rings on the ends of the workpiece - stiffeners.

Fig.3. Flaring pattern:

Features of working with tin

Galvanized sheet is an inexpensive and reliable material. Its main feature is its small thickness (most often, a sheet with a thickness of 0.3 to 1 mm is used at home) and plasticity. Due to its softness, it is convenient to work with galvanizing and it will not be difficult for even a novice tinsmith to make the desired product on their own.

At the same time, despite the softness of the steel, the resulting seam seam is very reliable and able to withstand significant mechanical stress.

Conclusion

The scope of galvanized pipes is extensive. They are used for drainage, chimney, ventilation systems, so the ability to make parts yourself will definitely not be superfluous.

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Home builders try to select the best solutions to solve problems. budget options. Therefore, the question of how to make a tin pipe with your own hands is relevant for many amateur craftsmen. After all, a home-made tubular product made of tin can be quite compared with drains or casings that lie on shelves in specialized stores.

Therefore, it is necessary to learn more about the manufacturing process of a tin pipe that has the characteristics of factory products.

Features of the source material

Before proceeding with the manufacture of a pipe from a sheet of metal, you should get to know the material from which the pipe will be made and its features. To begin with, it is worth saying that these are rolling products, in other words, tin is a sheet of steel that has passed through the rollers of a rolling mill and has a thickness of 0.1-0.7 mm.

In addition to rolling operations, tinplate manufacturing technology involves the processing of finished rolled products from the formation of corrosive processes. To do this, a layer of material is applied to the steel after rolling, which is not susceptible to corrosion.

The result of the actions performed is a steel sheet, the width of which can vary from 512 to 1000 mm, with a chrome or zinc coating. finished product is plastic, so tin is easy to manual processing. At the same time, rolled stiffeners can be compared in strength with steel products. This allows the use of tin in the manufacture of products of complex design.

Required Tools

The list of tools and fixtures necessary for making galvanized chimney pipes with your own hands is due to the properties of tin, in particular softness and plasticity. The processing of this type of material does not require an application special efforts, which are necessary for working with sheet materials.

Therefore, in the production of tin pipes for the chimney, the following set of tools is needed:

Scissors for cutting metal. This tool helps to easily cut sheet material into the desired pieces, since the largest thickness of the sheet reaches 0.7 mm.
Soft-faced hammer. You can also use wooden mallet, mallet, or steel tool with a soft rubber pad. However, the latter option is used very carefully or not taken at all, as it can cause deformation of a thin sheet of tin and ruin all the work.
Pliers. With the help of this tool, they solve the question of how to bend a pipe from tin, because it is steel, although it is thin, therefore, it is impossible to bend it with your hands.
Workbench. This device is necessary when cutting material and when marking.
Calibrating element. This can be a tubular product with a diameter of more than 10 centimeters, as well as a corner with edges of 7.5 centimeters. These elements must be well fixed, since a butt joint will be riveted on their surface.

In addition to these tools, you should prepare a ruler or tape measure and a scriber, which is a steel rod with sharp sharpening.

Instructions for making a tin pipe with your own hands

The manufacture of tin products, including pipes, takes place in three stages:

Preparatory work involves marking the workpiece and cutting it out of a tin sheet.
Forming involves forming the profile of a pipe or other product.
In the final, the opposite edges of the workpiece are connected.

And now more detailed description each stage of the manufacture of tin pipes with their own hands.

Preparatory stage

First, markings are applied to the sheet of tin, along which the semi-finished product will be cut. In other words, the necessary part is cut off from a certain tin sheet, from which the contour will be formed future pipe. The marking process is carried out as follows: the tin is laid out on a workbench and a segment equal to the length of the pipe is measured from the upper edge. This is where the marker is placed.

Then, using a square, a line is drawn along this mark perpendicular to the side edge. Now along this line the circumference of the pipe, the same is done along the upper edge. At the same time, about 1.5 cm is added along both edges to form the connecting edges. The upper and lower marks are connected and the workpiece is cut out.

To determine the circumference, you can use a tape measure, or you can recall a school geometry course.

How to make a pipe body out of tin

The purpose of this stage is to form a pipe profile. A line is drawn along the length of the workpiece at the bottom and at the top, along which the folds will be bent. At the same time, 5 mm are measured on one side, and 10 mm on the other. The folds must be bent at an angle of 90 0. To do this, the workpiece is placed on a steel corner, combining the fold line with the edge of the corner. Hitting the edge with a mallet, bend it to the perpendicular side of the corner.

Now, on a fold, the size of which is 10 mm, another fold of the fold is made to make a kind of letter G. In the process of bending the fold, you need to make sure that the upper fold is parallel to the workpiece, and its length is 5 millimeters. Therefore, when drawing the folding line of the fold, 0.5 cm is measured on one side once, and on the other side, twice 0.5 cm each.

After forming the folds, you can proceed to the formation of the pipe body. To do this, the workpiece sheet is placed on a sizing element and they begin to tap with a mallet or other suitable tool in order to obtain a profile of a certain shape. First, the workpiece takes a U-shape, and then becomes round. In this case, the folds must be joined together.

Processing the junction of the folds

The final stage involves the processing of the butt joint, that is, its crimping. To do this, the upper part of the L-shaped fold is folded down, wrapping the edge of the other fold. The result should be a kind of sandwich, located perpendicular to the pipe. To get a docking seam, you need to press the sandwich to the product.

For greater reliability, the butt joint is strengthened with rivets. However, do-it-yourself tin pipes using this docking method do not need additional reinforcement.

Today, we throw a very large variety of packaging products into the trash can every day, however, some products can be a good source for doing all sorts of DIY crafts.

So, as an example, you can take an empty can of tin from lemonade or beer. For the most part, crafts from cans serve as a decor, but if you turn on your imagination and fantasy, you can build something useful and usable for the home.

Do-it-yourself lighting fixtures from cans

Almost any bank can be found useful application, so, for example, it is possible to make a very stylish and original ceiling lamp. Therefore, the first step is to remove the top of the bottom of the can, using ordinary scissors or a clerical knife.

If you have a penchant for drawing, then the jar can be colorfully painted or simply painted on the inside and outside. After that, it is necessary to mount a cartridge with a light bulb to the bank. Everything, a bright and unique lamp is ready for use.

Also from beer cans you can make an interesting and beautiful table lamp, which can decorate the room with its unusual look.

So for the manufacture of a lampshade, it is necessary to use only the tongues from the cans, but for the lamp stand, you can use the tin itself. To connect all the tongues from the cans into a single and unified structure, it is necessary to make a small incision on each tongue, after which all the tongues must be connected to each other, and then the cut is reconnected.

Country interior decoration

Very interesting application tin cans can also be found for country use. For example, they can be used in the manufacture garden furniture, armchair and table very a good idea use empty aluminum cans.

So, in order to make a chair, you need to connect all the cans together using a very powerful and reliable glue. For a more stable position of the chair, and so that it does not deform from the weight of the person sitting on it, it is advisable to fill each jar with sand after gluing.

Can alcohol burner

Also, for many amateur travelers, it is very important to provide everything necessary for hiking, especially a burner. Therefore, many tourists independently make alcohol lamps from aluminum cans, which are quite capable of replacing a conventional gas burner.

It is worth noting that the weight of a home-made spirit stove hardly exceeds 50 grams, while gas-burner has a weight of about 3.5 kg.

Candlestick-flashlight from a beer can

So, to perform such crafts on the jar itself, you will have to make deep vertical cuts at a distance of 3-4 cm between them. This process is carried out with a sharp knife, it is necessary to cut carefully slowly, if necessary, you can use a ruler for a more even cut.

After the jar is cut, it must be gently pressed down a little from above, resulting in an interesting flashlight design. If you don't like color scheme candlestick, then you can paint it yourself with a special spray in the color you need.

Butterflies from beer cans and other figurines

It takes a lot of patience to make this kind of craft. So, from an empty tin, you need to remove two bottoms. The result is a rectangular sheet of tin.

Note!

Carefully cut out the finished shape with scissors along the contour of the pattern, for example, a butterfly.

When the shape of the butterfly is ready, you can give it a more natural look, give the wings a little life and decorate the butterfly a little in a bright color.

Thus, before throwing away an empty aluminum can of beer or drink, think, if you only turn on your imagination and imagination, then you can make useful crafts there are a lot of beautiful and useful things from tin cans that your relatives and friends will be able to appreciate.

Photo crafts from cans

Note!

Connecting the edges of a thin sheet metal it is most often made in the castle - by clamping one edge to the other, but occasionally other methods are used, which in the works of the young master may just be needed more often. These are the methods.

The edges of the sheets can simply be soldered. It is clear that this will be the most fragile way, especially if the metal sheets are thin. This will be a butt joint (1). Such a connection can be used where strength is not required, but an inconspicuous connection is needed. In thicker sheets, the butt joint is made with teeth (2). Actually, this is no longer the case for tinsmiths, but coppersmiths - craftsmen who manufacture copper utensils, tanks, pipes, caps, etc. The butt joint can be made stronger by soldering with inside plate (3). This will be a butt with an overlay. Stronger connection - overlap (4). One edge is superimposed on the other, the seam is soldered or fastened with rivets. But this connection already has a protruding edge, which is not always convenient. You can bend the edges at one edge and at the other, hook them and squeeze them with mallet blows. This will already be a simple lock (5).

The most common connection method is a double lock (6). It is done like this. In one piece, the edge is bent at a right angle, in the second, the edge is also bent, but in the other direction, and pressed against the piece, and then this edge is bent at a right angle in the opposite direction. Both bent edges are connected to each other, bent towards the first edge, and the seam is pierced with a mallet. On the reverse side, it will be smoother, which must be taken into account when joining in this way. The sequential course of work is schematically shown in the following figure:

All kinds of tin products are most often connected with a double lock.

Occasionally, tinsmiths use a connection with rivets. However, this method is more often used when it is necessary to rivet a handle, an eyelet, a strip, etc. Occasionally, the seams are strengthened with rivets into the overlay and simple lock. They usually rivet with small rivets, preferably with wide flat caps, in a cold way. In rough work, tinsmiths prefer rivets rolled from a piece of tin. To make them, you need to have a piece of iron with holes different diameters, or a riveter. A diamond-shaped piece of tin is rolled up with a pounder using a hammer or round-nose pliers, inserted into a riveter, into a hole of a suitable diameter, and the head is riveted. These rivets are soft but certainly don't have the neat look of solid rivets.

Almost all work with thin metal is based on the plasticity of the metal, its ability to bend and flatten. But the master must skillfully use his tool, otherwise these same properties will go to the detriment of the work. How and why remains to be seen.

The main and very first work of the master is the ability to bend the fold, in other words, to bend the edge of the sheet. The work is simple, but also very responsible, since the further processes. It is necessary to bend the fold for a variety of needs: for seam joints, and for edges, for inserting bottoms and others. It is necessary to ensure that the metal only bends, but does not flatten out at the same time. If the metal in the fold is flattened, it will expand. The fold edge will come out bent and the surface of the sheet will warp.

In rough work, where the fold is folded wide, this makes almost no difference. But where greater precision and finesse are required, it will be very noticeable. Let's explain with an example what we can do. Suppose we want to make a tube out of tin and connect it with a double lock. They unfolded the folds with an iron hammer, began to roll up the tube and connect the seam, but it turns out that it is very difficult to connect the seam; the folds turned out to be bent due to the riveting of the metal with a hammer.

Therefore, the folds should always be bent with a wooden mallet on the sharp iron edge of a scrap, iron strip or scraper corner.

The work proceeds in this order. First of all, a fold line is drawn with a thickness gauge. The thicker the metal and the rougher the work, the wider the rebate can be taken (10-20 mm, on thin sheet the rebate is taken at 3-5 mm). They put the sheet on the edge of the scraper (or devices replacing it) with a fold line, with quick and accurate blows with a mallet beat off this line, first at the ends, and then along the entire length of the fold.

Then they bend the edge of the fold at a right angle, put it on the anvil with the outer side and straighten it with the inner blows of the mallet.

Suppose that you need to bend the fold of a tin cylinder.

It is clear that the diameter of the outer edge of the bent fold will be greater than the diameter of its inner circumference. Therefore, the metal must be riveted along the entire fold, stronger at the outer edge, weaker towards the cylinder.

The fold must be bent with an iron hammer. The cylinder is taken in left hand, outline the thickness of the bend from the inside with a thickness gauge and apply it to the edge of the support or scrap under obtuse angle, after which they beat on the future fold with the toe of a hammer, beating off the fold line and riveting the edge. Light blows of the hammer are directed so as to rivet the outer edge more strongly. Having bypassed the full circle, reduce the angle of inclination of the cylinder, placing it steeper to the anvil, and continue the work in the same order. It is repeated again and again, all reducing the angle of inclination to a straight line. With such a gradual knocking out, the fold can be bent at a right angle, and it will not burst anywhere. The bent fold is placed on the stove and straightened with mallet blows.

The bottom can already be attached to such a cylinder with a fold with a double lock, only at the circle for the bottom it is necessary to bend the fold or solder the bottom with solder.

Just as they bend the fold on the cylinder, they also do it when the edge of the tin product needs to be strengthened and made thicker by rolling a wire into it. The work is carried out in the same order, but with a mallet and without beating off the sharp edge of the fold. The fold should come out smoothly, a lapel must be made on the metal, calculating the width of this lapel according to the thickness of the wire that will go in there.

The width should be taken at about three wire diameters, adding a little to the thickness of the metal. When the fold is bent at a right angle, it is bent back with a mallet, turning the cylinder on a round anvil. Then they put it on the stove, insert the wire and fix it with a few blows of the mallet on the lapel. With a mallet on a round anvil and a plate, they finally press and smooth the lapel. Turning the product edge up, straighten the rolled edge from above. If the lapel turned out to be not wide enough, it is now very easy to fix it by piercing the top with a mallet with a pull of the blow outward. On products with straight edges, rolling the wire into the edge is, of course, even easier.

Of the techniques for processing thin metal, based on riveting and drawing metal, a young master should definitely familiarize himself with knocking out. By knocking out a flat plate of metal, a various convex shape is given. In this way, it is possible to knock out the bottoms and covers of boilers, hoods and a variety of streamlined parts for aircraft models, plating for ship models, etc. Above, we already had a similar job - this knocking out of a bucket.

Knocking out is a job that requires patience. You can not hit once or twice with a hammer and get a good hood. It is necessary to slowly beat with a hammer, all the time moving the product, gradually increasing the depth of drawing and finally straightening and smoothing the surface of the product with light strokes.

There are basically two ways to pull. The first way is when the metal is flattened on a convex anvil, starting from the middle to the edges. The middle will be the thinnest, but the product will be convex. The work is carried out with an iron hammer. According to the second method, they are knocked out with a mallet or a hammer with a round end on a mandrel (matrix) having the corresponding shape.

As an example, we give the knocking out of the same bucket. On a wooden bowl or a thick board, you need to make several round recesses of various depths. They are cut with a semicircular chisel, and then smoothed with blows of a round hammer. A round plate of metal is placed over the first recess and a hammer or a round mallet is knocked out until a properly rounded surface without wrinkles is obtained. The same technique is repeated in the following, deeper matrices. In conclusion, we will get a bucket along the profile of the matrix. According to a different profile and a different cutting, we could get a different shape.

Sometimes a young master will have to knock out longitudinal recesses on thin metal plates. The cross section of such a plate will turn out to be figured, and the plate will become rigid.

As in any other business, the marking and cutting of the material, the beginning of work, is a very important operation, on which further success depends. From this it is clear that this work requires special care and accuracy. The most simple work- this is cutting and making a simple open rectangular box with upright or divergent sides, with or without a toe.

From a sheet of tin cut out a rectangle of the appropriate size (a). When cutting, it is necessary to take into account the area of the bottom and the height of the walls. A thickness gauge draws a line of folds. One corner is cut off if you need to make a sock in the box. Turning the sheet over on the board, cut off the corners of the bisector of the corners with the toe of the hammer approximately to the border of the future bends of the walls (b). Turning the sheet over again, on the edge of the anvil (a piece of iron) they bend the sides with a mallet (c), but not quite. They are trimmed at the rectangular end of the anvil and bent with a mallet close to the wall (d). The cut corner for the toe remains not bent, it is slightly flattened, making a gutter out of it. The box is ready (d).

The work, as you can see, is quite simple, but it must also be done carefully.

Cutting out and manufacturing cylindrical shapes will not present any particular difficulties. For the cylinder, it is necessary to cut out a rectangle equal to the height of the future pipe, and 3.14 times the diameter of this pipe with an increase in seam rolling.

In the manufacture of conical products (bucket, funnel and others), all methods of work will remain the same, only when cutting you will have to remember the geometry. All conical objects must be correctly depicted in a sweep, and this is the most important thing.

Let's take the easiest way to cut. Let's try to make a conical bucket. First of all, you need to draw its average section, along the axis. It will appear as a trapezoid; continue the sides of the trapezoid until they intersect. The intersection point is the center from which two arcs are drawn - from the long base of the trapezoid and from the short one. You will get a ring, from a part of which the surface of the conical bucket will be made. The width of this ring is the height of the bucket. You just need to remember to add to roll up the top edge and bend the bottom.

The length of the part of this ring we need is determined by the diameter of the bucket. Approximately three diameters with an addition for a double lock is what you need to take from the ring. Having set aside 3.14 diameters of the outer hole or the bottom of the bucket along the upper or lower arc, a line is drawn along the radius. Increases for a double lock are already made parallel to these radial lines. This will cut the surface of the bucket. Any conical shape is exactly drawn in the same way, whether it is a whole or a truncated cone: the height of the figure is plotted along the radius, and the length of the scan is along the circumference.

Despite the many different tin blanks that are sold in building supermarkets, sometimes when installing gutters, ventilation or other similar engineering systems there is a need to install parts of a non-standard configuration or size. Therefore, many home craftsmen are interested in how to make a pipe out of tin with their own hands.

Features of the material used

Before starting work, it is advisable to carefully familiarize yourself with the features of the material from which the pipe is supposed to be constructed. Tin is an ordinary sheet of steel with a thickness of 0.1 to 0.7 mm. It is formed by sequential rolling of the billet through the rollers of the rolling mill.

However, the processing does not end there. In order to protect the resulting sheet from corrosion, it must be coated with a layer of another substance that does not oxidize in air.

As a result, the warehouse finished products arrive steel sheets, the width of which, according to GOST, can be 51.2-100 cm, coated with an ultra-thin layer of zinc, chromium or tin.

Note!
The material is very plastic, which allows you to process it at home.
On the other hand, when arranging stiffeners, you can get a structure that is as strong as thicker steel.

Given that the price of tin is also low, it is often used to make many different parts of complex shape.

Required Tools

Cutting and bending sheets of tin does not require much effort. However, it will be useful to arm yourself special tools and accessories, a list of which is given in the table.

Tool	Purpose
Metal shears	Used to cut sheet metal into blanks right size. The maximum thickness of the material, as you know, is 0.7 mm, so it is enough to apply only a slight muscular effort.
Kiyanka	You can replace it with a rubber mallet, as well as a steel tool with rubber pads that do not leave dents on the tin during use.
Pliers	Used to make bends. Can be replaced with ticks.
Workbench	For marking and cutting, it is necessary to place a sheet of tin on a flat surface. Best to use carpenter's workbench, but you can also cut on the floor, cleared of large debris.
Calibrating elements	Their role is played by thick-walled steel pipe with a diameter of about 100 mm (or round wood) and a steel corner with a width of 75 mm. It is fixed on the edge of the workbench or clamped in a carpenter's vice. The pipe will be needed to make the longitudinal seam of the pipe.
Marker	Used for marking on sheet metal. It is a thin steel rod with a sharp end.
Measuring tool	This includes rulers, tape measures, squares and other similar devices.

Work process

Let's start making a pipe from tin with our own hands.

The whole process can be divided into several main stages:

Training. This includes marking the product and cutting out individual blanks from a piece of tin.
Molding. At this stage, the initial formation of a round tube takes place.
Compound. Here it is necessary to finally sew the parts into the finished product.

Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Step 1. Preparation

Complex instructions are not needed here, everything is very simple:

the sheet is placed on a flat area (workbench or floor);
a segment equal to the length of the future pipe is measured from the upper edge (marks can be made with a marker or a special marker);
then a line is drawn through the mark using a square, perpendicular to the upper edge of the sheet;
on the upper edge and the line drawn at the bottom, the width of the workpiece is measured, which is equal to the circumference of the pipe (moreover, 15 mm must be added to this parameter to arrange the joint);
all marks are connected, after which the workpiece is cut along the resulting lines.

Advice!
Knowing the diameter of the pipe, you can easily calculate the circumference (width of the workpiece) from well-known formula L \u003d π D, where π is 3.14, D is the diameter of the future part.

Step 2. Shaping

After receiving the workpiece, it is necessary to form a round profile of the future pipe.

Here the work is done like this:

The line for the folds is marked. Its width is 0.5 cm on one side and 1 cm on the other. The folds are bent at an angle of 90 degrees to the plane of the tin sheet. To do this, you can use a steel corner and a mallet.

A sheet of tin is placed on the edge of the table with an offset to the desired length, then its edge is gently bent with the blows of a rubber hammer. At the end of the work, it should be in close contact with the lower plane of the corner.

Work should be done evenly along the entire length of the workpiece. To facilitate the procedure, you can use pliers.

Then, on a centimeter fold, another bend is made in the shape of the letter G. The upper part (its width should be 0.5 cm) must be made parallel to the sheet of tin. It is advisable to pre-mark and for this bend.

Upon completion of work with folds, we proceed to work on the pipe itself. For this, a pre-stocked round part is used. Having placed a sheet of tin on it, you should use a mallet to give it a rounded shape. This should be done gradually along the entire length of the sheet until the bent edges meet.

Step 3. Docking

It remains only to combine the edges and fasten the seam. To do this, the horizontal section of the larger fold is bent down, covering the opposite edge. Then the protruding seam is bent to the plane of the pipe with a mallet.