Plasterboard putty: selection of putty and instructions for shtclothesia. How to put plasterboard: Detailed instructions for working as placing walls on plasterboard

Plasterboard in our days is firmly established by the leading positions of popularity among other construction and finishing materials. It is used to align the walls and installation of partitions, creating suspended ceiling structures, other original elements of the interior of the premises. It is able to become an excellent basis for any decorative finish - it can be wallpapers, paint, ceramic tiles and even

However, the finish perfectly falls on a plasterboard surface only under the condition of its proper preparation. The most difficult process is considered to prepare as painting, since this decorative finish is not able to hide even small flaws of surfaces. It is somewhat easier to put the wall under the decorative plaster, especially if it has a certain relief. The easiest way, according to specialists, is performed by putting the plasterboard under the wallpaper.

But "simpler" - does not mean "simply" at all, and it should be treated with the maximum effort. Plasterboard putty under the wallpaper is just as important as under any other type of finishing. And if this stage is to ignore, or treat him, so to speak, "after the sleeves", but there is nothing to expect the high quality of the final result.

Do you need to put plasterboard under the wallpaper?

Quite often inexperienced in the finish, the owners of the housing are perplexed by asking the question of why, in principle, to put the already smooth plasterboard wall. Especially since the wallpaper, in their opinion, and so well will be kept on the wall, as they perfectly stick to the cardboard surface. Or they, they say, will close all small irregularities.

We increase - there are several important reasons for that.

First, the wallpaper pasted on paper will be quite difficult to remove when carrying out the next repair, without damaging the structure of the drywall. And if you refuse to putten the walls, then a very unpleasant incident may happen. When dialing the wallpaper, along with them often begins to move out the outer cardboard layer of GLC. As a result, there may be a situation where not only wallpapers will have to change, but also drywall sheets. If you calculate the costs that are coming with the following repairs, then it is still more profitable to buy a spacure mixture, and spend on its application for some time than in the future to do much more complex and expensive alterations.

Secondly, the reason for the need for continuous plasterboard cover with putty is the color difference of sheets. The usual GKC, designed for dry rooms, is made in gray or dark gray, the heat-resistant sheets have a pink-purple color, moisture-proof material has a green coating. In addition, marking is applied to the sheets.

It is impossible not to take into account sheets of sheets that It is necessary to close first. For this purpose, special white paper is used, which is also substantially highlighted on the background of a common surface. If the decoration of plasterboard was produced in a newly built house, then perhaps after a while the structure will give a shrinkage. If the joints of the plasterboard sheets are not reinforced, and the entire surface is not sharpened, then with the shrinkage of the walls of the house, folds and chances will appear on the wallpaper.

8 - respirator to protect the respiratory tract during the resolution of the solution and especially when carrying out the grinding surface. Eyes should be protected with comfortable glasses or mask (shield).

Materials for plasterboard spit

The list of materials for spectaling of walls is also not particularly large. But each of them has its own function and is applied at a certain stage. Therefore, it is important to adhere to the existing technology and do not save on materials, especially since they have quite affordable cost.

The primer solution is necessary for processing drywall and seams. It will strengthen the surface and creates good adhesion between materials.
Grid-Sherryanka for the reinforcement of sheets of sheets or a special paper perforated tape.
Putty composition in the finished execution or in the form of a dry construction mixture. The starting and finishing putty is purchased, and better if they are one manufacturer - maximum compatibility is achieved. You can also purchase universal material that is suitable for any stage, but it becomes somewhat more complicated to work with it. Therefore, if there is no experience in conducting finishing operations, it is better to acquire specialized mixtures.

Selection of primer composition

Primary formulations are presented in building stores in pretty wide Assortment, therefore it is even difficult to determine the choice of the necessary solution. For the drywater surface, primers made on a water basis, which can also perform different functions.

For the primer of drywall, it is clearly impossible to use primers made on an alkyd basis, as they can cause the deformation of the cardboard, it will begin to smear and bubble.

The most popular solutions are acrylic primers. They may vary according to the degree of viscosity, and for applying plasterboard to make more liquid solutions with good shelterness and high penetrating ability.

Acrylic primer compounds have suitable characteristics for processing:

A homogeneous consistency of the compositions makes it possible to evenly apply them to the surface.
Deep penetration into the material of the surface helps to strengthen its structure.

Thanks to these properties of acrylic primers, the consumption of putty decreases, as it does not absorb into the surface.

Prices for plasterboard

plasterboard

There are pigmented primers that not only impregnate and strengthen the surface, but also paint it into a smooth white color. This quality is especially necessary when applying the primer from above the spacion layer - it will not only build it to give the surface increased adhesive qualities, but also lines the overall color tone. It is very important to use a pigmented solution if light thin wallpapers are selected for the walls of the walls, as it will create a good color foundation that will "support" decoration of decorative canvases.

The advantages of water-dispersion solutions can also be attributed to the possibility of their use on unprepared surfaces, that is, they do not have to clean the walls and the ceiling from dust too thoroughly. After drying, the primer penetrates into the pores of the material and creates a thin coating on its surface, to which the spacion solution will be well.

When choosing a primer for applying to a drywall surface, it is worth carefully examining the operational characteristics of a particular material, as well as precautions when working with it.

Selection of spacure

Each professional master gives us, as a rule, a preference for some particular putty, with which it is most comfortable to work as much as possible. Therefore, the general characteristics of materials used to finish drywall will be considered.

The putty appropriate for drywall is divided into two criteria:

Based on which it is manufactured, divided into cement, gypsum and polymer;

According to the stages of application - on the starting, finish, as well as universal.

To make the right choice of material for trimming of drywall, it is necessary to have an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat plaque mixes are represented, and what they differ.

For different stages of wall decoration, special compositions are used. Therefore, purchasing material, you need to pay attention on the packaging on which The manufacturer necessarily indicates its purpose:

Starting (basic) Putchals are used for rough alignment, embedding cracks and large flaws, surface preparation for applying an external finishing coating. They have a more coarse-grained structure, in contrast to the finish mixtures, and are able to align individual wall fragments, raising irregularities to a total level by 25 ÷ 30 mm.
Finish formulations Accordingly, they are applied to the prepared surface, and are intended for the final leveling and smoothing.
Universal spacure Applied both for preparatory and for the outer finishing layer. However, with these compositions it is necessary to be able to work, otherwise the desired result may not work.

The beginners are best when finishing the walls to use basic and finish putty of one manufacturer, as they will interact well with each other.

Now it is worth considering the main characteristics of putty, suitable for trimming of drywall under the sticking of wallpaper differing in manufacturing material.

Prices for cement-based putty

cement-based putty

Cement-based putty. The composition of the cement putty includes the following components:

- grade 400 or 500 cement, which is binding in a dry mix;

- fine sand, acting as a filler;

- plasticizing additives, such as - polymer, lime, gypsum;

- Water is added to the mixture in the manufacture of the solution before applying it.

Produced both starting and finishing cement putty.

TO advantages Cement putty can be attributed to the following:

- good clutch with the surface, facilitates their application;

— non-long enough the timing time, which gives time to correct the mistakes made;

- the ability to level the surface with very serious flaws;

- resistance to high and low temperatures;

- moisture resistance;

- Available material cost.

TO disadvantages Cement putty can be attributed to a greater-grained structure in contrast to gypsum or polymer putty.

For decoration of plasterboard walls, this material is used quite rarely. Usually, they are resorted only in cases where the walls are aligned with high humidity, such as a bathroom or kitchen.

Gypsum spacureenroll on sale in The form of dry building mixes. This finishing material, in addition to the main substance, contains modifying additives that make the mixture more plastic and somewhat extended the term of it. Gypsum compositions, as well as cement are starting, finishing and versatile.

TO positive qualities gypsum shuttle mixtures can be attributed:

— Gypsum is well adjusted for different room temperatures.

— Thanks to the gypsum composition, you can get a perfectly smooth and smooth wall.

— Environmental purity of the material.

— High adhesion abilities.

— Gypsum mixes are "breathable" material, which significantly reduces the risk of fungus or mold on the walls of the colonies.

— Gypsum has the ability to regulate moisture in the room, that is, with its excess, the material absorbs moisture, and if necessary, it gives it back into the environment.

Disadvantages Gypsum putty can be considered the following their qualities:

- insufficient moisture resistance.

- Gypsum putty quickly grasps, so it is also necessary to work with it, which is also very controversial, which is not always obtained from builders-beginners. In this regard, the large volume of the solution should not be kneaded.

- Gypsum mixes cannot be used for external work, as the material is very hygroscopic, well absorbs moisture, because of which it can, with time, flaw from surfaces.

- A very limited shelf life of putty mixtures - if the packaging is open, it must be immediately used, otherwise the material will very soon become unsuitable for work.

Gypsum spacing perfectly interacts with drywall, so it is most often used to align the walls and partitions made of this material.

Prices for flieslinic wallpaper

fliselinova wallpaper

Polymer Call latex and acrylic putty. They are very similar in its component composition, as they are made on the basis of acrylate. These types of putty come for sale in dry Mix and finished form in plastic buckets. The last option is definitely convenient because the composition can immediately be used to work. The mixtures have a homogeneous consistency, have good adhesive abilities and form a smooth and dense layer on the surface.

You can find polymer putty for internal and external works, as well as universal formulations. In addition, there are starting (basic) and finishing putty, as well as special repair mixes intended for sealing seams, cracks and other irregularities on surfaces. The material is well adhesive with the surfaces, quickly freezes, not giving shrinkage, after which it can be polished.

Advantages Polymer putty can be considered the following qualities:

- Resistance to high humidity and moisture-repellent properties.

- Resistance to abrasive load and other mechanical effects.

- Easy in applying and processing.

- The possibility of coating already plastered surfaces.

- The composition can be applied both thin and thick layer.

- Due to the elasticity of the material, the layer is not extended to the surface and is not cracking.

- resistance to temperature differences;

- Fast (but moderately fast, not as in gypsum compositions) setting and burning the applied material allows not to delay the repair work.

- The mixtures are not contained toxic components harmful to human health, so they can be considered environmentally friendly material.

TO negative moments The use of polymer putty includes:

- Due to the rapid grasp of ready-made mixtures, it is necessary to work with them quite quickly. With independent manufacture, not to impose a large amount of material. Capacity with a finished mixture must always be kept in a closed form by typing a small amount of putty in a separate container.

- Application of the mixture must be produced in several layers of a small thickness, in order to avoid cracking of the material when it misses.

- the polymer coating is not breathing, which is clearly inferior to gypsum and cement putty;

- There is a high price for this type of mixtures.

Polymer putty are perfectly suitable for finishing plasterboard walls under the sticking of wallpaper, but they are quite rarely chosen for this purpose due to high cost.

The annex to this article places a calculator that will help predict the consumption of the shtklanie to align the walls. This will allow you to purchase the required amount of the mixture or the finished composition without allowing a strong error in one direction or another.

Putclone plasterboard walls under wallpaper - step by step

To achieve the desired results and get a reliable smooth surface to which wallpapers perfectly be perfect, all stages of work provided for by technology used by professional builders should be performed.

So, work on the decoration of plasterboard under the wallpaper is carried out in several stages presented in this table-instruction.

Illustration	Brief description of operations performed
	Before moving to the main work, it is necessary to produce preparatory. The first step should be carefully examined the quality of consolidation on the frame of plasterboard sheets and, if necessary, fix minor shortcomings. The most common errors when fastening sheets is the wrong screwing of the self-tapping screws. Their caps should not perform above the surface and be slightly recessed in plasterboard. To find the protruding helns, it is necessary to take a metal spatula and spend on the lines of their screwing.
	If the hat is above the level of the main surface, then the spatula will definitely stumble upon it. In this case, it will be left to take a screwdriver and touch the self-tapping screw, drowned by a hat into the crowd of cardboard. If the fastening screw hat flashed the cardboard layer and deepened in the gypsum, then the self-sufficiency will not securely hold the sheet on the crate. Over time, it can break from the frame, and the sheathing in this place will be fried forward. You can correct the position by screwing the additional screws, retreating from the first on the same line 50 ÷ 60 mm. If the hat is self-drawing not to deepen into the cardboard, then it can spoil the glued wallpaper. First, they can break when mounting. Secondly, the hat will be sucked and will remain noticeable after drying the gloves. And thirdly, self-taking rushing over time, and yellow stains come across wallpaper.
	A common mistake of novice home masters is that they often do not cut the chamfer on the sheets of plasterboard, which are joined by the edges without the factory edge (this concerns the end side of the entire sheets or cut fragments). It is completely easy to fix this flaw. For this, a sharp construction knife is used - the chamfer is cut off and the sovereiggers formed along the edge of the cardboard are necessarily removed. Then such an edge can be slightly treated with sandpaper ..
	When cutting the champers between sheets, a gap approved inside should be formed. Therefore, performing this process, the knife must be retained at an angle of 45 degrees. In the future, this clearance will be rejected and filled with a putty composition, which firmly connects the sheets among themselves.
	The next step is thorough primer surfaces. For the convenience of this process, it is recommended to use a special plastic container - a langer tray having an inclined corrugated surface that will help save the solution. In the need to priming drywall, many doubt - they say, its surface is already impregnated by the desired compositions during production. But experienced masters on this save are not recommended - on the surface there is always a thin layer of dust, in the course of storage, transportation, installation work. And it must be associated with primer, otherwise the high-quality adhesion putty can not be achieved. In addition, the impregnation of the primer requires cutting edges of sheets, sites of possible damage, sprouting the screws.
	Gypsum can be used with roller or brush, but it is best to have both tools at hand. The joints of the sheets and the angles are more convenient to process with a brush, and the main surface is faster and easier to cover with roller, as it immediately captures a large area.
	First, it is recommended to primer the cuts of plasterboard and give them to dry. The soil creates the structure of the gypsum, which will exclude its crown in further work. When the primed joints are dried, the solution is applied to the entire surface with two layers, and each of them should dry well. The primer must be distributed evenly over the entire surface.
	After the soil dries, the external angular joints of drywall sheets must be reinforced - this can be done with the help of special corners equipped with "wings" from the sickle grid. Corners will significantly simplify the design of angular joints, as it will be quite difficult to remove the perfectly smooth angle with a putty. In addition, the edges of the drywall on external angular joints, if they are not reinforced, with mechanical exposure they can be folded.
	Manufacturers deliver various types of reinforcing perforated corners made from different materials - it can be plastic, steel galvanized and aluminum products. The most affordable are steel corners, so they are most often chosen by inexperienced builders. However, experts do not advise them, since in places of violation of the protective layer of galvanizing steel begins to rust, and yellow spots can stick not only through the layers of putty, but also through the wallpaper. It is best to strengthen the angular regions, plastic or aluminum corners are suitable equipped with mesh "wings".
	Fasten the corners on the surface is easy, as they have a very small mass. The fixation of the elements is made on the spile solution - it is evenly applied to the plane from both sides of the angle, and then the corner is tightly pressed to it. It is convenient to press the corners using the plaster rule, since with a point pressing the metal can be easily brought. The rule presses the corner to the wall at once along the entire length. Instead of the rule, you can use a smooth bar or board. Speaking through the holes with a solution of putty, immediately collected by a spatula.
	Some masters fix the reinforcing corners with brackets, driven them with a stapler, or even nails. It is not recommended to do this because of the same rust that can spoil the wallpaper. If it still seems that the fixing by nails is simpler, then for this purpose it is worth purchasing only galvanized. For reinforcement of arched openings, it is also best to use plastic corners, as they have a certain flexibility. Thanks to this quality, the product is well grudging to the curvilinear form of the arch.
	After the corners are fixed, they immediately need to be covered with putty and remove a smooth angle. Works are carried out not in a hurry, starting on top and gradually dropping down. The entire reinforcing element must be completely closed with putty. At first, one side of the angle closes the putty, and after setting the solution, go to work on the second. This technique will help withdraw a smooth angle without his lubrication. It should be noted that the alignment of the angles is a rather complicated process, so it must be patient to be patient. Do not be afraid of primary failures - with the diligence of the shortness, everything will start to get.
	The inner angles of walls, trimmed with drywall, are reinforced by a sickle grid or a special ribbon of perforated paper. On sale you can find a grid having an adhesive basis, it is easily fixed on the cardboard, and the work passes quite quickly. Another embodiment of the mesh without glue is fixed on the wall using a thin layer of putty or PVA glue. The adhesive composition is applied on the drywall with a thin layer, and it is superimposed and pressed the grid or paper tape with a spatula.
	Today on sale you can easily find corner spatulas. They are more convenient and faster to output both internal and external angles. The angular spatula has a smooth bend of 90 degrees, so it will bring a neat straight angle.
	Seams between sheets on a flat surface of the wall are reinforced in the same way. A sickle sticks on a self-adhesive basis, or first applied a layer of putty, which immediately filled the gap between sheets. From above of the solution, a reinforcing material is fixed - a grid or a ribbon of special paper. After that, the applied twin is carefully leveled with the overall surface of the walls. If necessary, the solution is added so that no "ditch" remains on the interface of the sheets.
	If a glue-based mesh was fixed on the seams, then the putty is applied on top of it so that the seam between the sheets is completely filled, and then aligned along the overall wall plane.
	In the event that when installing or trimming the jackets of drywall, feces were formed, and then potholes, before being reinforced, they should be rebounded, fill the starting gypsum putty and align. After the repair layer is driving, you can proceed to the reinforcement of the joint.
	Further, using a spatula, you need to fill the well with a solution of the well from the recessed hats of the screws. The solution must be applied flush with the main surface of the drywall. Before proceeding to the next step, it is necessary to wait for the embossed of the applied putty solution.
	After the putty dries, it is necessary to carry out the surface revision to evenness, since in some places the solution can be applied with small irregularities. Therefore, the surface will have to be cleaned with a building grater, attaching a band from the abrasive mesh or coarse sandpaper on it. Cleaning is carried out by circular movements, so immediately will be covered by a large wall area. Naturally, it should be used to protect the respiratory and eye organs, as it will be a lot of small dust.
	The next step is sharp-on and aligned walls must be primed once again to create the necessary conditions for a good clutch of materials with solid spatleing surfaces. At this stage, it is enough to apply one layer of soil and wait for it.
	When the primer layer is dry, you can proceed to the main process of final alignment of the wall with a spacinal composition. If it was purchased as a dry mix, then the solution must be prepared independently by examining the manufacturer's recommendations located on the package. A clean water is poured into the prepared container in the required volume, and the corresponding amount of dry putty mixture is falling asleep. Alsitation is made using a construction mixer, otherwise the solution will have an inhomogeneous consistency. As already mentioned, it is not necessary to knead the large volume of the solution at once, since the decoration material based on the gypsum is rapidly settled. In particular, this warning concerns beginner plasters, the performance of which is small.
	Application of putty on the surface is best to produce a spatula that has a width of at least 300 mm. So that the covered surface is smooth and smooth, it is necessary to choose a high-quality instrument. Experienced masters advise for each stage of work to have their own spatula, since the starting putty has a stronger structure, and this adversely reflects on the smoothness of the spatula blades due to the inevitable light abrasive wear on the edge. Therefore, when applying the finish lineup, the surface may not be too smooth.
	Applying and distributing putty in the top of the wall, as well as on the ceiling (if it is included in plans) it is best to perform, standing on building goats. If there is no, then you can use a reliable steady table as a stand. Another trick, to which professional wizards resort to, achieving the ideal smoothness of the surface, is its backlight at different angles. The fact is that with lateral lights, even the smallest irregularities of the wall discard the shadow, and they can be easily discovered, and while the putty did not grab - to smooth out successfully.
	The technology of applying putty on the walls, in principle, is simple, but it is necessary to adapt to the process. Therefore, if there is no experience in such operations, it is worth preparing a small amount of solution and to start experimenting on a small segment of a wall that will not be visible, or even on the remaining unclaimed piece of drywall. Performing work, it is necessary to consider that it is not possible to pick up a solution from the container with a wide spatula, so at hand you need to have a spatula of 120 ÷ 150 mm wide. With it, the putty is recruited from the bucket (bath) and is distributed by a strip along the edge of a wide spatula.
	It is very important when performing a putty correctly hold a spatula in relation to the surface. It must be approximately at an angle of 30 degrees. Application of the solution begins on the angle. A spatula with a scattered putty is installed in an angle, and the mixture is distributed over the surface towards the middle of the wall. The solution layer should not be too thick, but sufficient to hide the awaiting relief re-reinforcing elements (grid or paper tape).
	Thus, the putty is applied in one layer. Due to the fact that the solution is quickly grasped, then, plastered the wall from one corner to another, you can return to its beginning and immediately apply the second layer if, of course, there is a need. Usually, when putting the drywall under the wallpaper, a layer is sufficient within 1 mm, since the wall is initially smooth. When pressed the spatula to the plastered surface when aligning the solution, there may remain embossed grooves from the corners of the blade. So that the spatula does not leave such traces, some plasters slightly bend sharp corners outside, as if twisting them. When applied plaster, it is necessary to try to align the surface - ideally deep grooves should not stay at all. "Thread" the same traces will then easily be cleaned with grinding.
	A day later, the plaster will dry completely, and you can move to its grinding. For this purpose, a manual building grater can be used or a special grinding machine of vibration or eccentric type. Manual process is carried out by circular motions counterclockwise. On the grinding tool, sandpaper paper of medium grain (order P120 - P180) is fixed (R120 - P180) or abrasive grid of the same indicators. Under the wallpaper it is not necessary to achieve the perfect smoothness of the wall, the main thing is that it be smooth, and did not have traces from the corners of the spatula. Performing this stage of work, it is necessary to protect the respiratory tract with the respirator, and the eyes - glasses or a mask.
	To ensure a good clutch of wallpaper with an plastered surface, it is worth covering another layer of primer. You can choose a solution of deep penetration with an antiseptic effect, which will connect the layer of plaster plaster and creates a kind of film. Any wallpaper is perfectly fixed on such a surface. And subsequently, if the need to remove old wallpaper, drywall will be able to be destroyed. Perhaps somewhere will break the plated layer, which will be easy to restore very quickly. After the primer dries, you can move to the wallpaper staging.

Now, having familiarized with all the nuances of holding on the plasterboard walls under the wallpaper, you can try your hand in practice. Do not despair, if the first time of the perfect surface does not work - everything was passed through it. Process only at first sight It seems simple. Therefore, before starting the walls of the walls, still It is worth conducting training, so to speak, fill your hand.

And in order for the process of self-study to go faster and better, we suggest viewing a useful video dedicated to exactly these issues.

Prices for wallpaper

wallpaper under painting

Video: For what and how the plasterboard walls are put off under the wallpaper

Appendix: We consider how much putty will need

It is quite clear that any owner wants plant in advance His costs of repair. Offer reader calculator that It will help to predict the purchase of putty to align the walls.

We pay attention - the calculator is universal. That is, it does not only be prepared for finishing with wallpaper, but can calculate the flow and other possible cases.

Below will be given several necessary explanations for the calculation.

In the environment of specialists - builders there are no unambiguous opinion on the need to perform such works on plasterboard, because the quality of its surface is completely acceptable. However, the experienced builder does not premier to include this operation in the estimate of the work, guaranteeing itself from subsequent detachalies and storage facilities. If you don't do a putty, then everything is clear here, but what can give her application, we will try to clarify here, but also the choice is yours.

How to put plasterboard, which materials to use and what is the technology execution technology - read below.

Protecting work

The protection of the drywall surface is a set of measures associated with the hardening of the design material and the improvement of some of its characteristics. But the most important thing is to increase its adhesion characteristics, that is, the ability to carry an finishing decorative coating on itself.

The first of the finishing operations is to apply primer.

To determine its necessity, consider the most common types of primer compositions and what qualities they are able to give the material in the form of GLK:

Universal primer compounds based on acrylic, water-soluble. Consider the best material for processing drywall. Drying time is 2 - 4 hours.
Fenol-based compounds are used in construction practice for metal processing and wood. In the absence of choice, can be used for GLC, but only for the first layer.
Alkyd primers are applied only on wood, as the protective layer on plasterboard is not categorically recommended.
Perchlorvinyl - can be used for primer according to any materials, but for internal work does not apply due to the release of harmful substances.
Glifthawic primers are the most powerful. Designed to work in rooms with good ventilating or for outdoor work.
Polyvinila acetate primers are applied only with polyvalent dyes. The positive parties refers a short drying time - about 40 minutes.
Polystyrene compounds are highly poisonous and used only for external work using respiratory protection tools.

Applying the soil is made by roller, this method is most productive, in the places hard to reach the roller, a painting brush is used.

Obviously, primer and putty in our case are used only acrylic. They allow, absorbed into the material, get higher strength quality of the GLC surface, increase its adhesion with other materials - paints, wallpaper glue or tile products.

Improved primer and putty condition of the surface allows you to put finishing materials on it more evenly and thin layer.

Special additives introduced into primers protect the material from the manifestation of mold and fungi.

Shpaklevka

Preparation for this work consists primarily in surface leveling. Especially when it comes to preparing for painting. The paint layer is able to strengthen the visual effect of the slightest irregularities, which makes the final result very unsightly. So, before putting down drywall, you need to thoroughly check, remove unnecessary protrusions, wrap the protruding screws, expand and close the cracks, eliminate the potholes, to cut the penetrating paper under the base. After that, it is desirable to clean the repair sites to clean the small emery skirt. And only after that it is necessary to apply the first layer of primer composition.

How to choose a spacure

There are three main types of such compositions:

aligning;
universal;
finish.

The first of them serve to align the surface of the sheets, seal cracks and chosel.

The finish is used as a facial layer applied by a thickness of about 0.5 mm. As a rule, after its drying, the surface of the sandy sandpaper is performed.

Universal compositions, which can be seen from the title, are used in both cases. It should be noted that the level of prices for such compositions makes them use with exotic cases.

The stirring of the dry composition of the putty mixture should be performed in accordance with the instructions on the package. Often the composition is sold in the finished form, it is enough to open a plastic bank and dial the required amount of substance into a separate container.

Before applying a putty composition on the entire surface of the sheet, you need to eliminate surface defects and seams between sheets.

Celebrations are removed with putty, it is better to make it a few cross movements of the spatula. Also come with screws.

In front of the sealing of the seams or cracks on them stick to the sickle to prevent further destruction of the jammed ends.

Room angles are processed in two stages, first the spatula is close to one side, after driving this place, processed the other side of the angle. To speed up the work of the experimental plasterer use a corner, passing them two sides of the angle at the same time. Before treating the corners, they are also recommended to stick with sickle. When processing outdoor angles, you must first fix metal corners with perforated shelves on them. Fill in the perforation to putty, you can securely fix the product on the corner.

Curvilinear angles are also necessary to reinforce the corner, but in this case the material from plastic is used. First, it is fastened at the place of filling of perforation, then the surface is aligned with a sprinkling composition.

The putty of the entire surface of the wall or ceiling is made by a wide smooth spatula. The composition is applied to it by a narrow tool, then a thin layer is distributed over the surface. When embelling small damage, you can use the rubber spatula.

At the end of the process of applying putty, the entire treated surface must be trapped with an eye to an ideally smooth surface.

Features of the shp clashing of walls under painting

As noted above, a more thorough preparation of the surface is needed to such an finishing coating. This is done as follows:

preparation and primer surface;
applying the first layer of putty. If the composition is prepared from a dry mixture, it is necessary to stir up to a homogeneous composition in the consistency of thick sour cream strictly according to the instructions. Attention! The rescue mixture is 2 - 2.5 hours, after which it begins to thicken. It is impossible to restore the mixture of water by adding water. Therefore, it is necessary to prepare it.
Important! For the processing of HLOs, you cannot use an alkyd putty. The field of its use paper on sheets is sweeping with the formation of air bubbles, which subsequently break through and reset;

for the seams between the slabs you need to perform reinforcement - edges to be separated by 3mm at an angle of 45 degrees, sharpen and sneak with a fiberglass grid - sickle, give drying to stalind;
the same operation must be carried out for external protrusions - before putting the corners, you need to close them with a metal or plastic corner
at the end of the application of the first layer of the surface, it is necessary to give dry and stabbing it with a skirt;
apply the second layer and process it as the previous one;
the third layer of apply the finish plaster makeup, achieving the most smooth surface, to eliminate the grinding;

carefully remove the dust in the room with a damp cleaning, thoroughly mix and wipe the walls;
apply the finishing layer of primer. Control the absence of bands and transitions of color of color, achieving the maximum sharp coverage in the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe walls. To do this, it is better to apply soil in perpendicular directions, if necessary, using a painting brush for aligning color drops;
after careful drying, the surface will be suitable for finishing paint coatings. The recommended drying time is always indicated on the packaging of primer and putty compositions.

The success of the color of the color of the surface of plasterboard plates depends on how the surface is properly prepared for such a type of coating.

To speed up the process of preparing walls from drywall to putty, for sealing the joints of the plates, screws, metal or plastic corners, we recommend using a gypsum-based spacing. It has a shorter duration of rejection, then the process will go faster. It should be remembered about the reduced timing of its resilience.
When purchasing primer and putty mixtures, you need to pay attention to the date of release and the shelf life. As in the case of cement, it is noticeably limited.
Before specking the surface at any stage, it is necessary to take care of its careful cleaning from dust.
When processing the ceiling surfaces, work on complex forms is better to trust a specialist.

Conclusion

We hope that the information described here is how to put plasterboard, it convincingly shows that it is at least necessary. The putty gives the design additional strength, contributes to the white economical expenditure of the finish coating (paint, liquid wallpaper, etc.) and promotes the durability of the finish. In the event that glazed, high-quality spacing of the walls will prevent the bundle of drying plates when removing old heavy wallpaper. I wish you success!

In order for the plasterboard design to acquire a finished look, it must be passed. How to put plasterboard, bring the corners, close the joints - about everything in this article.

Do you need to put plasterboard?

I do not want to do anything too much. In addition, putty is a long-term difficult process that takes a lot of time. The question arises reasonably - why put a flat surface of plasterboard sheets. Maybe when finishing, you can do without it? With some types of finishes, it is possible, but not at all.

It is always necessary to close the joints of the sheets, the corners and the hats of the screws. Under any type of finishing. Be sure to put the hlock under painting. The surface of the plasterboard is far from being perfect, and new irregularities are added during transportation and installation. If you paint the surface without prior alignment, they will all be clearly visible, especially if there is at least a small degree of gloss.

Preparation of drywall under the sticking of wallpaper - you can only sharpen the seams, after preloading the surface

Knauf is one of the leaders in the production of plasterboard - allows the entire surface of the sheets to be placed under the tile and wallpaper. Only joints, angles and self-tapping screws. Nobody puts under the laying of the tile, but under the wallpaper - yes. And all because the wallpaper pasted without prior processing are spilled together with the cardboard and sometimes to gypsum. So for the second time, the putty is simply inevitable.

It is possible to do without putting the entire surface of the leaf without putting the entire surface of the sheet. In this case, the soil serves water diluted with water-separated acrylic paint. It creates a film on the surface with which glue interacts well, but also this film does not allow damaging the cardboard when the wallpaper is torn.

So, put the plasterboard completely for painting, it is desirable - under the wallpaper paste (at least in one layer) and take out only self-tapping screws and stitches under the tile.

Primer for Gisokarton: Why, than and when

The primer performs two different functions. The first - it improves the adhesion (clutch) of two materials. As a result, when putty, the chances of the formation of bubbles are reduced, detachment of the material. The second function - it lines absorbing ability. The result is a smaller consumption of material, and when putty - a more flat surface. So the primer skip is undesirable.

Protect with finishing works, in theory, it is necessary before each new operation. For example, before putty, you need a primer of plasterboard sheets to improve adhesion with putty. Before painting or salary wallpaper - to reduce the consumption of paint and glue. Also need a primer before applying the finish layer - the starting has to be smoked, because of which the surface is dusty. Without soil treatment, the finishing layer falls badly, rolls up and can even fall off.

What primers are needed? Depends on the stage and from the type of finish material:

Before putting the hypostertone (starting and finishing layer), the primer of deep penetration or for porous well absorbing surfaces is used.
The same composition can be used before painting and sticking wallpaper.
Under the wallpaper, the covered surface of the GLC can be predicted with wallpaper glue, diluted with water. The proportions are indicated on the package with glue.
Under painting it is necessary to look at the manufacturers recommendations. Sometimes primer - paint, diluted with water. If there are no other directions, use the composition of deep penetration.

Summing up It is worth saying that the primer is a necessary operation. It allows you to get a good result and reduce the consumption of materials.

Technology: Work sequence

After the sheets of HCL are fixed on the frame, it comes to prepare drywall to finish finish. Consider the case with a full cycle - under painting. In this case, plasterboard should be placed at least in two layers. Under the other less demanding on the quality of the surface, finishing types simply remove unnecessary stages. The order of work is:

A few words about what putty is better to use for hyposkarton. Any suitable - based on plaster or polymers (latex). Polymer putty usually finish - they give a very thin layer and a flat surface. Gypsum there are both starting and finish. The difference in particles. You can use any, if only the quality was good.

There are two forms of release of putty for drywall - dry in bags and divorced in buckets. Dry before use must be dissolved with water in the specified proportions and stir up to dissolving lumps. Formulations in buckets are ready for work, but cost more. But the guaranteed do not have lumps.

Coating primer

Before placing drywall, ground surface. Any soil is applied to a dry pure base. Therefore, we pre-remove from the surface of the pollution, we remove the dust (can be vacuuming or slightly damp cloth). After that, we prepare the soil according to the instructions (sometimes it is necessary to dissolve with water, sometimes enough to stir), pour into the container and apply a brush or roller.

The primer for drywall is for dry and wet rooms. Choose a soil for the bathroom and kitchen for wet rooms for the rest, anyone. When choosing a soil, pay attention to the presence of antibacterial components. They prevent the development of mold and fungi. This is especially true for the kitchen and bathroom.

Name	Consumption	Purpose	Drying time	Extra Properties	Price
Soil penetrating optimum (10 l)	6-8 sq.m / l	For priming brick, concrete, drywall in dry rooms.	30-40 min		600 rubles per 10 kg
Glims Soil / GLIMS GRUNT (10 L)	5 sq.m / l	For premises with normal and high humidity	30 minutes		600 rubles for 10 liters
Tex Universal Acrylate Soil	5-14 sq.m / l		30-40 min	For dry rooms and rooms with periccked humidity	650 rubles for 10 liters
Primer internal prospectors 10l	5-10 sq.m / l	For the priming of porous surfaces, including GKK and spit surfaces	60 min	Anti-grib and antipless additives	350-400 rubles for 10 liters
Feidal TiefGrund LF 10 L	10 sq.m. / l	For high-consuming surfaces, including drywall	quick-drying	For internal and outdoor works, frost-resistant	850 rubles for 10 liters

Usually for the primer of drywall, it is enough to apply the composition in one layer, but two are in the kitchen or bathroom: to guarantee the result. After drying the soil (time is indicated in the instruction), you can proceed to the next step.

Sealing self-tapping and seams

For seams there are special compositions of Knauf-Fugen (Knauf-Fugen), Knauf Uniflot (Knauf Uniflot), Fugefuller (Fugeenfuller) and their analogues. After drying the soil wept putty to the consistency of thick sour cream. Please note that these putty will dry quickly, because at once they divor the small amount.

We take a small spatula, they are applied to the place of installation of screws, remove the surplus. Putty in this place should be exactly so much that the surface is smooth. Thus, we pass all the screws. They can be embedded in parallel with the seams, and it is possible - first. It does not matter.

The principle of working with putty - a roller is placed on the edge of the spatula, then it stretches in the right place

The jokes of drywall are two types. Along the long side of the GLC edge uneven - for easier sealing this joint. But the sheets are connected and height, where there are no ledges. You also have to cut sheets and the connection also gets online. Such connections require special technology and about it just below.

Vertical joints

When putting the vertical bogs of drywall with normal factory edges, they are first thoroughly fill, after they are sick.

After filling, the composition is not yet dry, it is sampled by a grid with a sickle or paper reinforcing ribbon. It is necessary that cracked on the joints on the joints. If you use a tape, it is torn to the necessary pieces, soaked in clean water for 10 minutes (until the seam is filled).

Filling the seam, the tape is getting, pulling out the excess water with a finger, glued to the seam. After taking a spatula of 8 cm wide (necessarily such) and pressed the tape below the GLC surface. She "sits down" to one of the factory protrusions. Putting start from the middle to the edges. When pressing from under the tape, a putty is squeezed, we collect it. As a result, if you put a wide hard spatula to the surface (with a width of at least 20 cm), it can be seen that the tape is below the surface of the cardboard. Next again pass the putty, leveling the joint in the level with the surface.

Edged seams

Place plasterboard in places of horizontal joints - where two plates are connected or on vertical, but without edges better after preprocessing. First, the surface is wetted with water - brush to dip in the water and fade a place of connection. To walk several times to the gypsum of the wet. Then a sharp knife cut the groove at an angle of 45 °. Processing these joints can be carried out before primer. It is even more convenient.

Prepared joints with soils. In this case, it is more convenient to use a brush. After drying, fill the seam composition for putting the jacks of drywall. It is more convenient to operate with spatulas width 10 cm and tough 20 cm. Little applied the composition, great removal of excess. Fill out well, pressing the composition in the seam. If you did everything correctly, a small roller is formed, slightly discovering above the surface.

Once again, we pass seam, catching a fresh putty with a thickness of about 0.5 mm, we take a clumsy reinforcing tape and glue it to this composition. We take a spatula of a width of 8 cm and press the ribbon well to the surface, squeezing excess putty from under it.

At the same time, a wave of paper is formed (in the photo it can be seen), follow it, so that it is not fluttered, we catch up with it to the end, where it spreads. Remove the surplus of the solution into the tape and the adjacent area of \u200b\u200bthe sheet. And the last stage - again we take the putty and the thin layer we rinse the glued tape from above. We do this layer as thinner as they say - "on the Sadir". Actually, the remaining putty stretch the very thin layer.

Second technology: first ribbon then putty

There is a second technology - on the gypsum first glue a sulfyan or paper reinforcing tape, then it is putty. So it turns out faster, but the lack of emptiness that remain under the ribbon. In these places, a putty, decorative plaster can be wrinkled or cracking.

Even instead of paper tape use a sickle grid. It is harder to work as hard - it is rigid and its edges often stick out of the solution. To be slightly simpler, the grid is pre-stuck, after complete drying of the glue is putty. In order not to think about the glue and speed up the work, use self-adhesive sickle (there is such).

But, it is still so harder - its surface is uneven, the spatula "jumps" on the fibers and gets a small wave, which is completely easy to ride.

Outdoor and internal angles

Outdoor and internal angles N are done using:

Paper and sickle most often discharge the inner angles - places of wall connection, as well as walls and ceiling. The technology is similar to the sealing of the seams. A certain amount of putty is applied to the angle, paper or sulfur is pasted on it, the reinforcing stripper is pressed into the composition, the excess putty is removed. After that, the angle is once again, catching a putty thin layer on top.

Perforated corners are used to design outer angles - slopes, protrusions, etc. First cut off a piece of the desired length. The metal is very thin, it is cut even by conventional large scissors, but if there are scissors for metal work easier. The edges are cut at an angle of 45 ° or less, and not at 90 °. So, when plasterboarding plaster, the edge will not turn.

A spacure is applied to the outer angle from two sides by a small islands about every 10 cm (in a checker order). A perforated corner is pressed into the solution, check vertical or horizontal installation, adjust. Pick out the spatula of the surplus of the solution, leveling the edges in one plane with the surface of the sheet. The installed corner is left for some time - before drying the putty, after which they grind, they put off again if necessary.

What is the difference between the metal corner of the SHEETROKK? Thin metal strips are applied on a paper base. They are tougher than simple reinforcing paper, but it is more convenient to work with them than with conventional perforated, since due to the availability of paper, the transition to the plane turns out more smooth.

Grinding of seams and corners

If during the sealing of the seams on the drywall is well aluming the layer, the grinding can be minimized. Why is it better to grind less? Because first, it is long, secondly - dusty. And the dust is very small, long flies in the air and rises from any movement again. To reduce the amount of flying dust, you can put the wet rags on the floor, wet sawdust, etc. The doors leading from the room are closed with a wet web. It must be more than the size of the door - so that the dust does not fly through other rooms.

To begin with, you can walk the sharp smooth spatula, cut all the most protruding irregularities. Next process grinding. It is not necessary to clean the corners and seams at this stage to perfect smoothness, take a grid for grinding with a cell on 180-200 and a wooden bar. The grid is fixed to the bar (you can brackets from, but there should not be stitching). This device align the surface. When working to highlight preferably slamming - so better all the irregularities. But the plasterboard can be placed under the wallpaper is not so carefully.

One moment is to grind better in the respirator and protective glasses. Not superfluous gloves. Dust is very small and penetrates literally everywhere. After the seams and the corners are stuck, the surface is rejected again. Moreover, all completely, since the dust also died on the untreated areas, and it worsens the clutch.

The most uncomfortable places for putty and grinding are internal angles. The secrets of fast high-quality grinding of the corners see the following video.

How to put plasterboard: equalize the plane

To put surfaces, you will need a large spatula - with a blade of 40 cm or more and narrow - by 10 cm. The first layer is applied with a starting putty. It puts up a layer of about 5 mm (the maximum should be viewed in the instructions for a concrete putty) and hides all the irregularities. Break it with water to the state of thick sour cream, stir carefully so that there are no lumps.

The technique of putting the surface of the drywall is easy: we take a large spatula, at its end with a small spatula, lay out a roller from putty. Cress the blade to the surface and stretch the composition. We repeat several times, filling some piece of wall or ceiling. Then we clean the blade, and spend on just a sharp surface, aligning it. It is necessary to align as closely as possible - less time for grinding time.

When plasterboard finished plasterboard, wait until he dried. Then you take a familiar tool - a bar with a grid and align all the flaws. Grinding is finished, remove the dust, pass the surface to the primer of deep penetration. After drying, they begin to apply the second layer.

Next to put plasterboard should be finished. As they wrote, it can also be based on plaster, as well as the starting, and may be based on polymers. They are also suitable for both, but it is harder to work with some - they quickly begin to roll and stick.

The finish putty makes a more liquid and apply a thinner layer. Application technique is similar, nothing changes. In addition, it is more difficult to work - it is worse, but it is necessary to stretch with a thin layer and quickly align. On the primer, everything is much better, and without it the bottom layer quickly pulls out of fresh moisture plaster and it starts to roll. After applying the finish putty, it will be waiting again until everything is driving, then start aligning. But this time does not use the grid - there are noticeable grooves from it, and emery paper with small grain. It is not so convenient to work - it is quickly clogged, but the surface is obtained smooth. If you cook the surface to paint, the backlight is made from below or on the side and you can use the incandescent lamp, but the LED - all the flaws are visible. Even very small.

It is difficult to tell how to put the plasterboard on how to tell the words - the movement is difficult to describe. In the video, you can first post how to keep the spatula, how to move them, how to apply or remove the solution. For details, look in the video.

It is difficult to imagine construction and repair work, which would not be used by plasterboard. From it there are internal partitions, boxes for tap and sewer pipes, multi-level ceilings, arches, decorative elements in the interior. Leafs of drywall align the walls, significant overlap defects.

Smooth, broken, rounded plasterboard structures in front of the color or pasting wallpaper should be placed. How to put plasterboard rice Not being a finishing master, we will tell in this article.

Instruments

For independent work, you will need:

foam rollers and brushes for priming,
stainless steel spatulas 10, 20 and 40-50 cm wide,
capacities for the mixture and for water,
grinding grater with fasteners for a grid or paper,
sandpaper or grinding painting mesh,
mixer nozzle on a drill,
construction knife
long rule 1.5-2.0 m
respirator, glasses, rubber gloves.

Materials for work

deep penetration soil
putty
serpian or paper perforated ribbon for seams,
perforated corners metal and plastic,
glass christmas
glue for glasses.

Shpaklevka

Each novice decorator has a question, the better to put the plasterboard. For operation, a coarse and finishing putty gypsum, cement or polymer is used. There are dry mixes and ready-made solutions on sale.

Attention ! Following the principle: "This is connected with the like", it is preferable to apply gypsum putty on plasterboard.

For decoration of premises with high humidity, cement, lime formulations or polymer putty are suitable.

For the main finish, the wizard uses a gypsum putty fugenfuller or cement Hercules, for the upper layer - the finishing polymer begaouf or cerezite.

Surface preparation

The quality of the finish depends on how well the plasterboard is ready for applying a putty layer. This follows:

Padding

The purpose of applying the soil is to create a polymer film that prevents the penetration of moisture moisture and the possible detachment of a paper plasterboard cover, as well as increase the adhesion of putty with the base.

Dust penetration soil can be used any, but professionals recommend primer ceresite St17. It creates a solid film. It is recommended to apply in 2-3 layers, each next is applied after complete drying of the previous one.

Preparation of solution

Gypsum putty is very demanding on the purity of the container in which the mixture is prepared, and is rapid enough. Prepare the solution follows 0.5-1 hour of work according to the instructions on the package.

Fall asleep dry powder into the water, add it until dry islands appear on the surface. This suggests that the proportions are observed. The mixture must be quickly stirred to a homogeneous composition and lack of lumps and leave for 5 minutes. The putty must be the depletion of sour cream. After that, mix and can be started at work.

Attention ! Stirring a gypsum spacing solution after cooking is not recommended.

Preparation of corners and joints

Plasterboard shtlock starts with the preparation of angles and joints. Here you will need a narrow spatula and a small amount of solution.

What put a putty to put the seams of drywall? For this use the composition of Knauf Fumen. The embroidered seams are filled with a mixture, then stick bands of a special self-adhesive mesh or perforated paper and brake with a spatula. A 5-10 cm wide grid will provide a solid grip.

After complete drying, the putty needs to be checked, whether the thread of the reinforcing grid sticks out, remove them with a knife, the irregularity of the sealing cut into the spatula and everything is projected.

Shpalian

The putty of plasterboard on the ceiling and walls is performed in different ways depending on the type of final finish. If it is planned to stick wallpaper, it will be enough for the main and finishing layer of putty. To finish under painting and Venetian plaster you will need glassball.

How to put the ceiling

The ceiling can be placed immediately finishing putty in 1-2 layers. Work lead from any wall with good lighting.

Important ! If you plan to apply two layers, they should be applied perpendicular to each other so that the latter is from the window along.

This is done as follows:

A wide spatula is laid a small amount of solution and wide movements from the wall on themselves or on itself are applied to the surface. After the sufficient area is processed, the layer is finally aligned with moistened with the rule. The masters do not use the rule, but it will be useful to the beginner decorator. So treated the entire surface.

If, from under the layer of dry putty, dark stains of drywall are not blocked, it can be limited to. If the layer turned out to be uneven, you need to apply the second. For this, irregularities are removed by a grinding grid, the ceiling is ground and put off again. The dried surface is thoroughly grinding, dust remove and apply soil under painting.

How to put plasterboard under the wallpaper

To make it clear how to put plasterboard, video from experienced masters will help to understand all the subtleties.

You will need narrow and wide spatulas. So that the putty was high-quality, consider several subtleties:

the spatula should not have a curved corner, jar and other defects on the working surface;
in the process of work, it is necessary to ensure that the lumps of dried mortar and other solid particles do not fall into the solution and on the spatula. They will leave the strip on the surface, with which it is difficult to cope;
the residues of the solution should be removed from both sides of the surface of the working spatula. The dry solution is better to throw in the garbage.

Operating procedure:

put a narrow spatula evenly a small amount of mixture on the edge of the working surface of a wide spatula,
starting from the angle, wave-like movements, apply it on the wall and thoroughly dissolve the movements of the spatula in different directions. You can make semicircular movements, wave-like, but not straight. Start the application better from the pure section, moving to the treated part;
the residues of the solution collect a narrow spatula and again distribute the surface wide, adding a fresh portion;
remove the defects of the dried layer with a grinding net or sandpaper;
clean the surface from dust with a large brush or cloth;
apply soil;
in the same way, apply a layer of finishing putty in the same way, process with a painting grid with a number 180-220 with circular motions after drying;
clean the surface from dust and boot.

How to put plasterboard under painting and decorative plaster

When finishing drywall walls and ceilings in new brick houses, as well as under painting or decorative Venetian plaster, it is necessary to rein the surface with a thin glass whip.

It will prevent the appearance of cracks and other defects. The glasses of the glass cholester are placed on a polished and primed putty layer with a PVA or Games for glass as follows:

the glue is applied on the wall to a smooth layer,
impose a mustache (3-5 cm) of the glasses of glass whirlpool, trying to ensure that their joints do not fall into plasterboard compounds,
the canvas carefully smash their hands and a spatula, removing air from under it,
after the stickers of two cavetles, the place of the allen cut through, using a construction knife, the excess canvas are removed, the joints are aligned,
the canvas top is covered with glue again and smooth the spatula.

A thin layer of finishing putty is applied to dried glue, carefully align and grind the painting grid. After grinding and removal of dust, the surface is covered with ground penetration by 1-2 times.

The plasterboard walls prepared in this way will be smooth, smooth, ready for coating by any finishing materials.

Plasterboard is the most popular material when finishing the premises. With it, it is easy to level the walls and ceilings, install various partitions, make a built-in wardrobe and much more. To get a smooth and smooth surface, you need to know how to put plasterboard. The spacade process itself is simple, but requires time, accuracy and certain training. The slightest deviation from technology can completely spoil the final result.

Preparation for putty

Before spending the putty of plasterboard with their own hands, you need to initially prepare. To do this, first check whether there are no sticking hats of self-tapping screws in GLC. If they are, they need to be screwed into a depth of 2 - 3 mm in GCL.

It is necessary to pay attention to the places of sheets of sheets. If the outdoor sheet paper spacked out of the inner gypsum base, it should be carefully cut off with a knife, and then sandpaper to polish the cut slicer. If the grinding is not carried out, then this can lead to a detachment of applied putty in the future. It should be examined by the edges of GLC. If there is no factory processing, then they need to be littered at an angle of 45 degrees. Thus, a more reliable clutch is achieved.

Primer

Plotching GLK start with primer. Before this surface should be cleaned and degreased.

The primer is chosen depending on the final finishes of the surface. Under the wallpaper, the soil of deep penetration is chosen, and under the tile or tile - adhesive composition. In no case should not take an alkyd soil. It has the ability to deform the paper layer of plasterboard and form bubbles. An excellent option is acrylic primer.

Depending on the final finishes, choose the primer under the wallpaper - deep penetration, and under the tile or tile - adhesion composition

Covered drywall with a thin layer using a construction roller, when using which, in contrast to the brush, applying is uniform. With special accuracy and thoroughness should be applied in angular connections and in the places of sheets of sheets. After that, the surface is left for the time so that the primer is dried, and then apply it once. As soon as the second layer is dry, proceed to the next stage - to putty works.

Instruments

For putty drywall, you will need:

bucket for water;
capacity for breeding the mixture;
mixer;
serpian and paper tape;
middle spatula (12 - 15 cm);
wide spatula (30 - 35 cm);
aluminum and plastic corners;
grinding machine or fine-grained peel.

Seeling junctions

Pluckle Glko begins with stakes. Before applying putty on the joints between sheets, a special self-adhesive mesh of fiberglass is glued (serpanka). It must be attached so that one half of the ribbon width lay on one sheet, and the second one. As a result, it turns out that the middle of the sickle falls on the joke. Casting of the compounds of HELL CERPYANK creates a reinforcing layer.

For sealing joints, dial not a large amount of putty on the spatula and apply uniformly filling the joint to the surface

A certain amount of spacious solution is taken by a narrow spatula and is superimposed on a wide one. Then this wide spatula is applied to the surface. It is necessary to trace so that the joint is uniformly filled with a solution without the formations of lumps and irregularities. If the experience of working with these tools is still not enough, then you can apply a solution to the joint with a medium spatula, and it is widely stretched for a possible distance. At the same time, reinforcement can be performed using a paper tape. It should be borne in mind that the sickle is glued before applying the layer, and the paper tape after the first spacion layer.

As soon as the first layer is driving, they apply a second layer of a spike solution. Then, waiting for it to dry, it is necessary to handle the surface with sandpaper.

Sweat Selfness

On the screws of the screws, the putty composition is applied by a spatula with a crusade: along and across. Thus, the mixture in the hole is achieved.

Apply a putty on the screws with a crusade, thereby achieving complete penetration

Putclone corners

In the conditions when the plasterboard is put on their own hands, it will take more time on the corners, unlike the sealing of sheets of sheets. After all, the GLK is connected here perpendicularly. In order to obtain an even straight angle as a result of work, we need to carry out putty work on a specific technology.

The reinforcement of the corners of the sickle is carried out in the same way as the joint. That is, one half of the ribbon width is on one sheet of drywall, the second one. The spacion solution is first applied to one surface. Only when it dries, the second sheet is put off. In this case, it will turn out a beautiful angle that will not require alteration.

Main spike

After the putty finally dries on the joints, corners and places of screwed screws, proceed to the main stage of the plasterboard gun.

Aluminum corners are installed on window and door slopes. They are fasten with or a construction stapler, or a mixture. The corner gives the rigidity and strength of the corner during mechanical exposure to it. It is cut on the length of slopes and is installed throughout the perimeter of the window or door.

A plastic corner is used for arched passage. When attached it, only the stapler uses, as it is thicker aluminum.

After all the corners are installed, they are smeared with putty to fill all the holes of the sheet. Further a wide spatula is applied to a putty and on plasterboard, and on the corner. Aligning movements need to be distributed as a layer, while grabling and GLC, and the edge of the profile. The first layer of putty on plasterboard should be not very thick. It must hide all the deepening and irregularities of the treated surface. The second spacion layer is applied after the final drying of the first.

Finish spacure

To make the perfect smoothness surface, the finish finish is performed.

First, it is necessary to carry out grinding. To do this, use skin with zero grain. Thus, all roughness and irregularities are eliminated. How to rub the putty on the drywall with a large surface area manually, to speed up the process, you can use the grinder.

The next step is to apply primer. It is advisable to apply it in two layers. If the priming is not done, then the subsequent putty layer will not fall on the first, bubbles will appear. Then proceed to the final putty.

Before applying putty on the joints of the plasterboard, apply a special reinforcing tape

Newbies in this case may arise complexity when choosing than to put GKK when finishing. Here you need to use only a wide spatula. And the wider it will, the more smooth surface in the end it will turn out. The mixture for the finishing spacion layer must have a consistency of sour cream. If the solution is thick, it will be difficult to achieve a smooth and thin layer. The final putty on the plasterboard is applied with swallowing movements. The thinner there will be a layer, the better. You can put several thin layers.

If small irregularities occur, they need to be lost shallow emery paper. The final stage is the applying of the primer on putty. It is necessary to apply it only to completely dry the spacion layer.

Plasterboard putty consists of several stages. Taking into account the fact that it is necessary to wait for the drying of the layers every time, it can last several days. But do not hurry. After all, if you fully spend all the stages of putty with the observance of technology, the end result will only bring satisfaction and pride for successfully done work.