Self-leveling epoxy floors, types and technologies. Epoxy resin for self-leveling floors How to make self-leveling epoxy floors

In the manufacture of epoxy self-leveling floors are used:

  • Epoxy primer
  • Epoxy putty for sealing surface defects (ratio of components on the package).
  • Epoxy self-leveling floor (ratio of components on the package).

The sequence of applying the compositions of the epoxy self-leveling floor

  1. concrete base
  2. Primer layer
  3. Filling surface defects
  4. Subfloor underlayment
  5. The front layer of self-leveling epoxy floor
  6. Decorative chips (if required)
  7. final varnish layer


Requirements for the implementation of self-leveling floors


Basic requirements for the technology of self-leveling floors

  • The concrete floor (floor sub-base) must meet the requirements described in Sub-base Requirements.
  • The temperature of the base of the floor and the air temperature should be between +5°C and up to 25°C.
  • Material temperature - from +15°С to +20°С.
  • At the time of laying the floor and the next day after it, the air humidity should not exceed more than 80%.
  • The air-subfloor temperature is at least 3°C ​​above the "Dew Point".
  • Temperature of storage and transportation of materials - from -30°С to +30°С.
  • Humidity of warping - no more than 4 mass.%.

The times indicated below for priming, puttying, underlayment and face coat are indicated depending on the temperature of the floor.

Requirements for equipment and tools

A mandatory requirement when using a tool is the absence of lubricants on their working surface. This is so important because the ingress of grease on the base can cause the formation of defects on the surface of the self-leveling floor. That is why it is better to soak the tool in a solvent (xylene, solvent) for 4-6 hours, then carefully remove the grease.

For preliminary priming of the layers, it is necessary to use sintipon medium-haired rollers (pile length 12-14 mm). Upon completion of the application of the layer, the roller, for further use, can be immersed in a solvent to prevent polymerization.

Steel spatulas up to 600 mm wide are used for applying the putty and the underlying layer. At the same time, the spatula must also be clean and have a smooth edge so that the entire plane can adhere to the concrete base. The formation of cracks between the spatula and the concrete base is unacceptable. Otherwise, the tool must be replaced.

For uniform distribution compositions in front layer a squeegee is used, which must be clean, and all mustaches are set equally on a caliper according to the design thickness of the front layer.

To remove air from the front layer of the coating, as well as to distribute the material over the surface, a spiked (rotary, aeration) roller should be used. It is advisable to use a new roller for these purposes or a roller that is sufficiently clean, i.e. without traces of the composition, moisture, solvents, detergents, lubricants, etc. In this case, all segments should be easily movable and could touch the surface. If this is not possible, then it is better to use a needle roller of a smaller width.

Soles for a self-leveling floor - soles which are used for movement on liquid material at all stages of production of works. The soles must also be clean and dry, and firmly fixed on the feet.

Mixer and mixer
A mixer for mixing materials must meet this purpose, while having the function of changing speed, reverse, and have a power of at least 1.5 kW. The optimum speed depends on the type of mixer used and the temperature of the floor when mixing. Double helical belt mixers are well suited for such purposes.

Mixer speed is approximately 400-600 rpm. In this case, the mixer should be immersed in the container to the full depth of the tata in order to create movement of the entire volume of material.

Usage industrial vacuum cleaner due to the need to remove dust from the base before priming and after grinding the putty layer. For these purposes, it is better to use only specialized equipment that is properly configured.


Foundation Requirements

The first and main requirement when creating self-leveling floors is a flat surface of the concrete floor. It is allowed to deviate the base from the horizontal plane over a length of 2 m no more than 2 mm. In this case, the base must be made of concrete and have a strength of at least M200, and also correspond to the expected load intensity.

The building must be waterproofed from groundwater.

If the concrete base is new, then it must stand, i.e. gain its branded strength, residual moisture content is not more than 4 mass%.

If the concrete base is not new (was in operation), then it should not contain foreign traces (stains of machine oil, animal and vegetable fats, etc.).

To check the residual moisture of the base, use a 1x1 m polyethylene film attached to the concrete base with a masking tape. In this state, the film is left for one day. If, after their expiration, condensate forms on the inner surface of the film, and the base under the film changes color, then it is FORBIDDEN to install a self-leveling floor.

If the surface of the base deviates (according to the requirements) from the plane, or there are impurities on it, then it is necessary to eliminate these defects - to level the surface and / or clean it.

In extreme cases, it is better to fill a new screed.


Preparation of self-leveling floor materials

The preparation of self-leveling floor materials begins with the organization of a place for mixing the compositions. Usually for these purposes:

  • Separate "working hands" are used - workers who do not leave the "dirty zone" during the entire period of pouring the floor. If they are not available, then when leaving this room, workers should be provided with separate replacement shoes.
  • In a dedicated area ("dirty area"), a double polyethylene film is used.
  • invert Special attention for the presence of individual components on the outer surface of the container.

In other words, when organizing a place for mixing compositions, the main task is to prevent the components of the composition from getting on the surface of the concrete base. If this is not observed, then swelling and delamination of the coating may form at the points of contact with foreign components.

Technology for the preparation of epoxy primer
Epoxy primer is performed similarly to a self-leveling floor, with the only difference that component "A" is not pre-mixed.

After mixing, the epoxy primer should be worked out within:

  • at 10°C - 1 hour;
  • at 20°C - 40 min;
  • at 25°С - 30 min.

The sequence of preparation of the self-leveling floor

  • Open the container with component "A" and lower the mixer so that it almost touches the bottom of the container.
  • Turn on the mixer and set the speed necessary for thorough mixing of the composition (approximately 400-600 rpm.).
  • Switch the mixer to the reverse mode and carefully, against the movement of the component, stir component "A" near the bottom and walls of the container (container).
  • Mix component "A" by volume using forward and reverse rotation for 3 minutes.
  • Without interrupting mixing, pour in component "B". After the complete pouring of component "B", we continue to mix the components thoroughly for 2 minutes. At the same time, we do not forget about hard-to-reach places - the bottom and walls of the container.
  • After mixing components "A" and "B", the resulting mixture must be defended for 3 minutes. This is done in order to release the entrained air.
  • Pour the finished and settling composition and spread over the surface.

It should be remembered that the maximum time spent by the self-leveling floor composition in the container should not exceed more than 30 minutes.

Preparation of epoxy putty

  • Mixing the components of the putty is similar to the preparation of the self-leveling floor.
  • It is possible to use putty for filling the surface both clean (not diluted), and with the addition of sand to it. However, for these purposes, dry quartz sand without dust is used, the fraction of which is from 0.1 to 1 mm. The proportions of such a putty composition are prepared from a ratio of 1-3 parts by volume to 1 part of epoxy putty.
  • After mixing the components of the epoxy putty, without interrupting the mixing, add sand to it.
  • Stirring is continued until a homogeneous mixture is obtained.

It should be remembered that the maximum residence time of the mixed epoxy putty in the container should not exceed:

  • at 10°C - 50 min;
  • at 20°C - 40 min;
  • at 25°С - 30 min.

Instead of epoxy putty, for filling the surface, you can use a mixture of self-leveling floor mixed with quartz sand. The mixing technology is similar to that of mixing epoxy putty with sand.


Epoxy screed technology


Preparation of the concrete base

The main task of preparing the concrete base is to open the pores of the concrete. To do this, the base must be cleaned of cement laitance, the upper weakened layer of concrete, dirt, etc. must be removed. In this case, the thickness of the removed layer will depend on the composition and method of laying concrete and range from 1 to 4 mm.

You can clear the base with:

  • mosaic grinder with corundum or diamond segments;
  • sandblast cleaning;
  • chemical milling.

The sludge formed during cleaning must be carefully removed from the surface with scrapers. Then sweep the surface with hard plastic brushes to remove sludge from pits, cavities and other defects in the concrete. If poorly cleaned areas are found, then additional surface treatment is necessary.

After completing the preparation of the base for pouring the coating, it is forbidden to move on it without clean changeable shoes!

Padding

The first layer of soil is applied to the base of the floor after the surface has been completely dedusted. In this case, the maximum interval between dedusting and applying the layer should be no more than one and a half hours.

For priming the surface, ready-made (already mixed) epoxy primer is used, which is poured over the surface with a "snake", after which it is evenly distributed over the entire area with rollers or flat metal spatulas.

The consumption of the applied epoxy primer will depend on the brand of concrete.

Epoxy primer drying time (interlayer exposure) at a temperature of 20°C - from 18 to 24 hours.

As with priming the surface before plastering, if after applying the 1st layer the concrete absorbs unevenly, then the highly absorbent areas of the base must be primed again. If, after applying the 1st layer of primers, glossy areas appear on the surface, then it is necessary to check them for the presence of cement laitance and other contaminants. If any are found, they must be removed, dusted, re-primed.

A second (second, possibly subsequent) layer is applied after polymerization of the 1st layer. During the application of the 2nd layer (protective), fresh soil must be evenly sprinkled with dry quartz sand of a fraction of 0.3-0.6 mm, while its consumption will be 100-150 g / sq. m.

Provided that the whole procedure was carried out technologically correctly, then immediately after the polymerization of the second layer, the entire surface will take the form of a homogeneous rough emery. Passes and dull unsaturated areas are not allowed.

Puttying (if necessary)

After applying primer layers to seal individual defects in the base, the surface is puttyed.

It should be remembered that the polymerization time of epoxy putty:

  • at 10°C - 24 hours;
  • at 20°C - 12 hours;
  • at 25°C - 8 hours.

Underlayment

The purpose of the underlying layer is to completely close the pores of the concrete base. After all, unclosed pores of the surface usually lead to the formation of defects during the installation of the front layer of the self-leveling floor.

Also, the underlying layer serves:

  • to eliminate minor defects in the surface of the base;
  • to cover pores in the base up to 0.2 mm in size;
  • to eliminate the drains of the front layer.

In this case, the layer thickness is 1.2-1.5 mm.

The sequence of operations performed

  1. The pre-mixed epoxy primer is applied to the surface in strips, based on a consumption of 400g/sq.m.
  2. Then it is carefully distributed with metal spatulas over the surface "on a peel". In this case, the formation of puddles and strips of excess material is not allowed.
  3. Further, after 10-20 minutes, the soil is covered with an excess amount (more than 1.5 kg / sq.m.) of dry quartz sand with a fraction of 0.3-0.6 mm.
  4. Performed in flats
    • Sliding (shuffling) movement in flat feet is not allowed when filling with sand
    • Any movement (with flat feet and without them) on a fresh composition covered with sand is not allowed.
    • Underlayment polymerization time:
      • at 10°C - 24 hours;
      • at 20°C - 12 hours;
      • at 25°C - 8 hours.

After polymerization of the underlying layer, it is necessary to remove excess sand with a brush with a hard plastic bristle. Then dust off the surface and seal the surface. To seal, carefully spread the self-leveling floor over the surface with metal or rubber spatulas"on the edge." Consumption 300-400 g/sq.m.

After polymerization of the sealing layer, carry out a thorough visual inspection of the surface for composition runoff and other defects. If necessary, carry out puttying or abrasive treatment of areas, followed by dust removal.

face layer

It is necessary to predetermine the filling configuration in such a way that the perimeter of the filled grips, throughout the entire filling period, does not exceed the critical value. That is, a fresh batch of material must be docked with the boundary of the previous batch no later than 40 minutes after the start of laying the previous batch.

When planning the fill configuration, you need to remember about expansion joints, which are the boundaries of the fill grips.

You also need to pre-limit the predicted area to be filled with masking tape. This is done for the convenience of continuing work after a break and marking the map of expansion joints.

The order of operations

  1. We prepare the composition of the self-leveling floor for work.
  2. Apply to the surface in strips, taking into account the design thickness of the front layer.
  3. We evenly distribute the composition over the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site with the help of doctor blades.
  4. Not later than after 40 minutes, carefully and evenly roll the composition with a spiked roller to remove entrained air, even out the color and texture of the surface. It is carried out in flat shoes - soles for self-leveling floors.

Sliding (shuffling) movement in flat feet is prohibited.

The minimum consumption required for self-levelling of the face layer depends on the substrate temperature and is:

  • at a temperature of +25°С - from 1.0 kg/sq.m.;
  • at a temperature of +5°С - up to 1.8 kg/sq.m.

Maximum working time with self-leveling floor poured onto the surface:

  • at 10°C - 3 hours;
  • at 20°C - 1.5 hours;
  • at 25°C - less than 1 hour.

Maximum polymerization time of the front layer:

  • at 10°C - 24 hours;
  • at 20°C - 12 hours;
  • at 25°C - 8 hours.

It is strongly not recommended to scrape off the remains of a liquid self-leveling floor from the walls of an empty bucket. This is due to the fact that mixing may not be complete on the walls of the container, and the use of poorly mixed material can lead to the formation of blisters on the surface of the bulk coating.

After completing the work on applying the bulk layer and its polymerization, it is necessary to fill all expansion joints with polyurethane sealant according to the instructions of the sealant manufacturer.

Upon completion of pouring the self-leveling floor

  • It is necessary to wait for the minimum holding time of the self-leveling epoxy floor, which depends on the temperature of the floor. The load can be created after the following time has elapsed:
  • Pedestrian load - at temperatures (+20°С - 3 days, +15°С - 4 days, +10°С - 6 days);
  • Full mechanical load - at temperatures (+20°С - 7 days, +15°С - 10 days, +10°С - 14 days).

It should be remembered that when curing, the self-leveling epoxy floor must be open. At the same time, it is not allowed to spill liquids, solutions, paints on it, get plaster, putties, dirt, etc. If this is not observed, then stains, surface turbidity and other defects may form on the self-leveling floors.



Self-levelling epoxy floors can be found in medical institutions, laboratories, sports complexes, industrial and storage areas, cafes, restaurants, trading floors and many other premises. Today, thanks to unique properties of this flooring, consumers are increasingly choosing epoxy floors to decorate their homes and apartments.

Advantages of self-leveling epoxy floor

  1. No joints or seams. Moisture and pollution do not accumulate in the seams and do not penetrate into the coating. The base is not subject to destruction or deformation.
  2. Ease of operation. Epoxy flooring is easy to clean, resistant to moisture, aggressive household chemicals and abrasives.
  3. Safety. The coating is fireproof and completely non-slip, it is absolutely harmless to health.
  4. Resistance to temperature changes. Epoxy coating easily withstands both low and extremely high temperatures.
  5. Strength and wear resistance. The bulk epoxy floor is not afraid of mechanical stress, it is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation.
  6. Design options. Due to the variety of design options for the decorative layer, epoxy flooring can organically fit into any interior.

Strength and wear resistance are the main advantages of epoxy flooring

Preparatory stage

Before starting work, you need to prepare (purchase or borrow) all the necessary tools:


Epoxy self-leveling floor - coating structure

  • squeegee(with this tool, the epoxy composition is directly applied to the surface of the base);
  • padding rollers(suitable for priming the surface before applying the epoxy coating);
  • spiked aeration roller(used to remove air bubbles from under the base layer);
  • spatulas(for applying and leveling the composition in hard-to-reach places);
  • low-speed drill with a special bladed nozzle(for mixing the components of the bulk coating);
  • solvent(for cleaning metal tools before and after work);
  • paint steppers(special needle soles worn over shoes so as not to damage the surface when working with an aeration roller);
  • personal protective equipment(epoxy should not get on the skin or in the eyes);
  • a vacuum cleaner(to clean the surface at the initial stage and remove excess quartz sand when applying a primer layer).

Foundation Requirements

Epoxy flooring can be poured on almost any base, but in order to achieve the most reliable and high-quality result, it is desirable to have concrete screed. If the screed is made again, you can start pouring the epoxy floor in about a month. During this time, concrete will acquire the necessary characteristics - humidity no more than 4% and strength of at least M200.

If you have to work with an old screed, first of all you need to remove the old coating, clean the surface of all kinds of dirt, eliminate cracks and other defects. The base is carefully leveled, for this you can use self-leveling mixtures.

Surface priming

The primer is necessary to increase the adhesion of materials; at this stage, padding rollers are used. 1-2 hours before applying the primer solution, the surface should be cleaned of dust. After the first layer has completely dried, a second layer of primer is applied and the floor is sprinkled with calcined quartz sand. When the second layer hardens, the remaining sand is removed with a vacuum cleaner. The use of sand replaces the surface grinding process.

base layer

We proceed directly to pouring the epoxy floor.

The air temperature in the room should be within + 5-25 degrees, humidity - no more than 80%.


Applying the base coat of epoxy flooring

decorative layer

Self-leveling epoxy floor can be arranged different ways. The simplest one involves the use of decorative paint particles - flocks (chips - to obtain matte finish and glitter for glossy). Flocks are scattered over the surface of the base layer that has not yet dried in the desired combination.



floor painting acrylic paints

The dried epoxy coating can be painted. This is a great way to create unique interior. With the help of stencils or almost any pattern is transferred. The latest fashion trend -. A three-dimensional effect can be achieved from the image using special microlenses by ordering them from an advertising agency or a printing company. Some do, while it is important to follow the technology.

Quite often, the construction of private houses includes a complete alteration of the flooring. Epoxy resins are being improved, transformed and improved technology for the arrangement. It is quite possible to make an epoxy or polymer self-leveling floor with your own hands, but you must follow the instructions and all the stages of work so that the canvas does not deteriorate and crack immediately after drying.

The most beautiful are self-leveling floors made on the basis of epoxy composition. The combination of epoxy resins and hardeners, after drying, forms a completely monolithic base, which has a huge number of advantages over other coatings - excellent wear resistance, high strength, the ability to endure sudden temperature changes, good adhesive properties to any substrate, the complete absence of seams.

Self-leveling floor is a coating, the manufacturing technology of which is simple, but requires accuracy and careful approach.

The floor does not require a serious or complex type of care, there is resistance to aggressive chemical components, a long service life, the ability to create a variety of design solutions.

Due to the many advantages of this material, it is possible to carry out the pouring process in the most various premises, such as:

  • production shops;
  • Laboratories;
  • clinics;
  • kindergartens;
  • Schools;
  • Garages;
  • Marketplaces and more.

V Lately such polymer coatings began to be laid in private houses and even apartments. Despite the presence of many advantages, there are also disadvantages to this wonderful finishing material. Before pouring the composition, you need to carefully prepare the base, which can require a lot of effort, time and money. The cost of materials is far from small, and therefore they cannot be called affordable for everyone. If the installation is carried out incorrectly, delamination of the coating may occur during drying. If it is necessary to repair the flooring, it is almost impossible to carry out it so that there are no marks left, and finding a canvas that matches in color is not easy, and sometimes even impossible. To remove a damaged or outdated epoxy floor, you need a lot of time and money.

Strong epoxy coating

To make a floor based on epoxy resin, it is enough to study the technology, and it is quite possible to do it yourself. To do this, you need to carefully carry out each stage. Prepare the base, fill the main layer of the coating. A decorative layer is required, a finish is applied.

The quality of self-leveling floors depends on how competently each stage will be carried out.

After the composition has hardened, it is impossible to correct defects. For proper construction, you need to prepare necessary set tools, evaluate the base for strength and moisture level, and also select the composition that will be poured as clearly as possible.

To equip an epoxy self-leveling floor, you need to prepare certain tools:

  1. The roller, moreover, should be needle-shaped, aerated, and also with a synthetic winterizer coating.
  2. Spatulas with different widths and lengths.
  3. Mixer for mixing bulk composition.
  4. Mixer for solvent-based material, in which there is a reverse function and the ability to change speed.
  5. Kraskostupy.
  6. Squeegee.
  7. Means for individual protection.
  8. A vacuum cleaner.

Before work, it is necessary to soak all the elements for a couple of hours in a solvent so that after installation they can be easily cleaned of the material. The next step is to prepare the foundation. The ideal option for the base of the self-leveling floor is a concrete screed, however, it is permissible to pour other compositions, for example, ceramic tiles, but this will require more effort and time.

How to apply epoxy flooring

What varnish to cover the floor? How to extend its service life? Epoxy resin considered the most ideal option for finishing the floor, only it is not applied to it, but is its constituent.

It has a lot of advantages and these are:

  • Excellent resistance to abrasive substances;
  • Excellent wear resistance;
  • High strength;
  • Excellent performance;
  • Long service life;
  • Minimal shrinkage after hardening.

Polymeric (polyurethane) epoxy is a transparent composition that is added to self-leveling floors due to which they become stronger and more durable. Why are these modern coatings so in demand? They allow you to create the most unusual canvases, not only monophonic, but also to embody the most various ideas. The easiest way to decorate them is to decorate them with decorative chips.

Due to the design of the self-leveling epoxy floor, you can create the most incredible effects.

After the coating has dried, the surface is often painted by hand, making the rooms more stylish, beautiful and modern. For this, the most common acrylic paints are suitable. Often in the printing house they order banner networks, which can be coated with images of any complexity. More cheap option decor is the application graphic image through vinyl stickers whether self-adhesive stencils.

Do-it-yourself installation of self-leveling epoxy floor

In theory, pouring an epoxy floor can be done even on a wooden base, however, the life of the coating will be significantly reduced, since over time, the wood will gradually deteriorate.

There are a number of requirements for the base under the epoxy floor, and these are:

  • Smooth, not loosened surface;
  • Complete dryness;
  • No horizontal deflection.

Horizontal deviation is acceptable, but only 2 mm for every 2 m 2. Often, in order to level the floor, the use of a special mixture is required. The humidity of the floor can be no more than 4%. This requirement should not be overlooked, because otherwise, after installation, the web will begin to delaminate. Its deformation will lead to cracks. It does not take much time to destroy the coating, and this will lead to difficult rework.

As a rule, the pouring of a fresh concrete screed completely hardens to a monolithic state and the highest degree of strength only after 4 weeks.

Up to this point, it is strictly forbidden to operate the floor. It is very difficult to work with old screeds, because first you need to remove the old coating, remove dyes, grease and dirt, and only after that you can start any renovation work. Before laying a new coating, it is necessary to eliminate chips, notches and other defects. If the finishing is carried out in a residential area, then a layer of waterproofing is laid along the edges of the wall, this must be done a couple of hours before the installation of the floor. The base surface must be cleaned with a conventional vacuum cleaner before pouring.

How to make epoxy floors (video)

Proper preparation will allow for competent installation, through which a decorative and stylish floor will be created, with excellent performance.

Self-leveling floors are one of the most modern, durable and beautiful floor coverings. Not surprisingly, they are popular and are increasingly found in urban apartments and private homes, and not just in offices. At the same time, there are several types of this flooring - cement-acrylic, polyurethane, and epoxy floors, which are distinguished by their special strength and long service life.

Epoxy resin is used for the manufacture and strengthening of various plastic products, varnishes, adhesives, textolite and other materials. New technologies and opportunities allow it to be used to create floor coverings. Bulk epoxy coating is a composition created from two components - directly the epoxy itself and a hardener for it. Also in the composition there are coloring pigments that give the floor a certain color, special fillers and additives that provide additional strength and wear resistance, as well as a uniform distribution of the substance over the surface of the subfloor or screed.

Epoxy self-leveling floors are particularly smooth, durable, they are resistant to abrasion and do not lose their appearance for a long time. Also, such a coating may not necessarily be glossy - it is possible to create both matte and semi-matte.

On a note! Requirements for self-leveling epoxy floors are fixed in GOST-R 50766-95. This normative document reports that this species coatings, due to their properties, can be used in printing houses, in production medicines, v Food Industry and many other industries.

Especially often epoxy floors are used to create floor coverings in residential premises, cafes and clubs, educational institutions. Also, they can be used not only indoors, but also on open area thanks to its unique strength. They are environmentally friendly, different and good performance fire safety.

Epoxy floors, in turn, are divided into several types. The separation depends on the specific operating conditions.

Table. Types of epoxy floors.

Coating typeDescription and terms of use

The thickness of this coating is only 1 mm. However, at the same time, the material has exceptional strength and perfectly copes with everyday chemical and mechanical stresses in the apartment. The coating is applied in one layer.

This view may consist of several layers, each of which will be 1 mm thick. The multilayer structure allows to increase strength indicators. An excellent type of flooring for an apartment and a private house, as well as for an office with low traffic.

Ideal for use in production shops, as it easily withstands critical loads, both mechanical and chemical. May have a different color and texture.

The bottom layer contains quartz sand, which ensures the most reliable adhesion of the base and the finish layer. The coating is not afraid of any kind of load, is highly reliable, and is easily decorated.

epoxy poured floor

Pros and cons of epoxy floors

It is not difficult to understand why epoxy floors are so popular. It is enough to get acquainted with their main advantages. The advantages of using this type of flooring:

  • epoxy floors are easy to clean and wash - it is much easier to remove dirt from them than from laminate or parquet;
  • the material does not respond to temperature fluctuations - its quality and performance properties are not lost, which allows the coating to be used in saunas, unheated rooms;
  • when installing the self-leveling floor, joints and gaps do not appear, which means that dirt does not accumulate, pathogenic microorganisms do not settle;
  • complete absence of seams - no need to use sills;
  • high strength characteristics and wear resistance - epoxy floors serve for decades without loss of external decorative characteristics;

On a note! Scratches and chips during operation can occasionally appear on epoxy floors, but they are easy to eliminate with the help of epoxy and a brush.

  • the material is not afraid of exposure to chemicals - the epoxy floor is not afraid of either acids or alkalis;
  • epoxy floors do not smell, except for the drying time after application;
  • excellent waterproofing performance is also an advantage of using such a coating. The material can be laid without waterproofing.

However, even such a wonderful coating as an epoxy floor is not without certain drawbacks; So, here are the cons of using a self-leveling epoxy floor:

  • high cost of materials and tools required for installation of the coating;
  • floor damage can occur due to the fall of a heavy object. Chips and scratches must be repaired immediately, as they are very conspicuous;
  • if necessary, the dismantling of the coating will be very difficult.

Requirements for the premises

Self-leveling floors can only be installed under special conditions, despite the versatility of the coating. Thus, there are restrictions on the use of this type of coverage.

In the room where the installation work for pouring an epoxy floor, a certain temperature regime- from +5 to +25 degrees. At the same time, not only the air in the room, but also the subfloor should have such a temperature. The work is carried out with a composition that also has a certain temperature - from +15 to +25 degrees.

The air humidity in the room cannot be higher than 80%, and the humidity of the base can be even less (about 4%). The latter indicator can be checked using a special device or ordinary plastic film. The material is attached to the base and remains so for a day, and then removed. Humidity is estimated by the presence of condensate drops - if water is present on the surface of the film, then the base is considered too wet and the floor cannot be poured.

On a note! Store the epoxy composition used to create self-leveling floors at a temperature of -30 to +30 degrees.

It is also important that the subfloor is clean and level before pouring the mixture. It should not be dust, debris, grease stains. Irregularities on the base must be corrected - grinding and sealing of cracks is carried out.

Advice! Self-levelling compound will help level the floor. Apply epoxy flooring mixture only after it has completely dried.

Necessary tools and materials

To make a bulk epoxy floor indoors, you will need certain materials and tools. It is not worth saving on them, since the quality of all work will directly depend on this.

Tools for work:

  • construction mixer or drill with a special nozzle;
  • needle roller;
  • paint studs;
  • vacuum cleaner and brush;
  • building level;
  • spatula and doctor blade;
  • containers for mixing components;
  • overalls, respirator, gloves.

Materials for pouring epoxy floor:

  • primer mixture;
  • purified quartz sand;
  • transparent polyurethane varnish;
  • polyethylene film;
  • epoxy resin putty;
  • directly the two-component epoxy mixture itself.

The consumption of soil for the rough surface directly depends on the brand of concrete - the larger its digital designation, the lower the consumption. For example, for concrete grade M200, the consumption of the substance will be 300 g / m 3, and for concrete M350 - only 150 g / m 3. The need to purchase certain materials also depends on the type of coating chosen.

Leading manufacturers

The composition of epoxy mixtures for self-leveling floors may differ slightly depending on the production technology and the company that produces them. However, the main components will remain unchanged. The decorative characteristics of the final coating will also depend on the type of epoxy mixture.

Table. The main manufacturers of mixtures for creating floors.

Brand / Composition nameDescription

Color composition, which after curing is characterized by high strength characteristics. Composition - color base A (epoxy) and hardener B. Does not emit an unpleasant odor when applied to the subfloor. It has high decorative properties, has excellent waterproofing, is not afraid of exposure to ultraviolet rays. Consumption for the finishing layer - 1.7-1.8 kg / sq.m. with a thickness of 1 mm, for the underlying - 300-400 g / m2.

Material from Russian manufacturer. Differs in high strength characteristics and good wear resistance. Not afraid of mechanical and chemical loads. It has good adhesion to any surface. Can be used on concrete substrates, cement screed, steel coating, wooden base. Consumption for the final layer of the composition is about 300-400 g / m2. Layer thickness - 1.5-5 mm.

The company produces various mixtures for self-leveling floors, which can be used both to create 3D coatings and for a regular self-leveling floor. The material is highly decorative, excellent strength properties. Consumption for the final layer of the composition - 750-900 g / m2. with a thickness of 1 mm.

Epoxy self-leveling floor - pouring technology

The technology for pouring an epoxy floor is quite simple - it is only important to be careful when working with the mixture so as not to ruin the final work.

Step 1. The first step is to prepare the foundation. The rough floor is cleaned of debris, all defects are eliminated from the surface. Filling if necessary cement screed waiting time for it to dry.

Step 2 The base moisture content is measured. For this, a special device or method with polyethylene is used, described above.

Important! Wet concrete must be thoroughly dried before laying the epoxy floor. Otherwise, the technology for applying the epoxy mixture will be violated and the coating will be of poor quality.

Step 3 The base is polished with a grinder. In hard-to-reach places, the surface is processed by a manual machine.

Step 4 Dust after grinding is removed with a vacuum cleaner.

Step 5 All irregularities, potholes and cracks are puttied.

Step 6 The entire rough surface of the floor is primed. Drying time - about 12-15 hours.

Step 7 The components of the epoxy composition - A and B - are mixed using a construction mixer.

Step 8 The finished epoxy mixture is poured onto the floor and leveled with a doctor blade over the surface. You can move around the applied substance in paint shoes - special studded shoes.

Step 9 To remove air trapped in the mixture, the surface of the applied material is treated with a special spiked roller. This procedure must be carried out no later than 30 minutes after applying the material to the base.

Self-leveling epoxy floor is ready. It remains only to dry it. At the same time, it will be possible to move carefully along it in a day. It will dry completely in about 5 days.

If necessary, self-leveling epoxy floors can be poured in 2 or 3 layers. In this case, the base layer is applied to the primed and dried base. After the base layer has dried, a top coat is applied. When it, in turn, dries, the surface can be additionally varnished with polyurethane varnish. It will give the coating strength and make it glossy. The average drying time of varnishes is about 2 days.

On a note! Epoxy compounds different colors during pouring, they can be mixed with each other and poured zonal. Then quite interesting color solutions are obtained.

By the way, the epoxy composition begins to polymerize quite quickly. Therefore, you need to work with it at a fairly high speed. In the container, it should not be longer than 10 minutes. However, it must be applied very carefully to the base. After applying the material until it dries, you will have to make sure that dust and debris do not get on it - the windows in the room must be closed.

Video - Creating a beautiful self-leveling floor

Video - Epoxy self-leveling floor

Bulk epoxy flooring is a beautiful, but far from cheap coating. The reason for this is the high prices for basic necessary materials and they are quite expensive. Before deciding on the creation of a self-leveling floor, it is necessary to draw up an accurate estimate of all costs.

Of great importance in creating any interior is the floor. Among the mass of varieties of flooring, epoxy self-leveling floors are a popular finishing option today. They stand out noticeably against the background of other analogues, they have advantages, although they are not without drawbacks.

Features: pros and cons

Epoxy-based self-leveling floors are a special technology used in any type of premises. If earlier mainly industrial facilities were equipped in this way, today the range of application of this cladding has been significantly expanded. With advanced equipment and latest methods production, it was possible to significantly reduce the costs of companies for the production of material with high quality and performance characteristics.

Advantages

Epoxy self-leveling floors have a lot of advantages, they are:

  • more often they are characterized by impeccable smoothness of the surface, allowing you to place any pieces of furniture on the floor without distortion;
  • decorate the floors of premises of any type (suitable for finishing the floor of living rooms, laboratories, enterprises, garages, production workshops, shopping centers, hospitals, shops, cafes, educational institutions, printing houses, food industry facilities);
  • are carried out according to the developed GOSTs, recognized ecological view finishes that are safe for human health are a refractory method of flooring;

  • they have great strength and resistance to wear, due to which they are a durable type of floor covering, designed for several decades (up to 40 years);
  • able to withstand various temperature fluctuations, withstanding the load in places with high humidity, can be used in completely unheated houses during the cold season;
  • easy to care for, due to the seamless application technology, they allow any cleaning of the surface, do not accumulate dirt, wash and wipe well, do not create an environment for the appearance of microorganisms;
  • are not limited in design solutions, due to which they can be an independent accent of a particular room, able to indicate the design idea, or visually increase the space due to the shade and texture used;

  • depending on the design solution flooring, can be part of the floor composition, being a waterproof material that can zone the space of any room;
  • due to the convenience of the technology, it makes it possible to seamlessly fill the floor of large rooms, being a chemically inert type of flooring and an excellent dielectric;
  • applied in the decoration of the apartment, they can be used in any room, decorating the floor of the living room, nursery, bedroom, kitchen, loggia, balcony, office, home library, corridor or hallway;
  • due to the variety of materials presented by trademarks for sale, they allow each buyer to choose the most appropriate option, taking into account taste preferences and the available budget.

The material is convenient in that any scratches or chips formed in the process of significant mechanical damage can be easily eliminated with an epoxy fill and a small brush. Such a floor has a smell that disappears when the composition dries on the floor. For its laying, waterproofing is not required.

Flaws

With a lot of advantages, the epoxy self-leveling floor has several disadvantages:

  • regardless of the components of the mixture, it needs careful labor-intensive preparation of the working surface, otherwise the quality, visual and practical characteristics deteriorate;
  • in premium grades, it is distinguished by a high price of cladding and related tools for installation, which in some cases does not coincide with the planned budget;
  • it can be difficult to dismantle large problem areas, because it is quite problematic to choose the material to match the existing finish;
  • shows all the imperfections of the flooring, small scratches and chips must be repaired immediately after their appearance: they are striking;
  • extremely difficult to completely remove from the surface at the end of the service life, does not provide for re-application.

Choice decorative coating not always successful. Often the pattern on the surface is colorful, which requires limiting the amount of furniture in the room. In other cases (3D version), the pattern creates the effect of space misinformation, especially if a picture with a cliff or abyss is chosen as the basis. The print should be selected extremely thoroughly, without violating the harmony of style.

Characteristic

The epoxy self-leveling floor is characterized by a slightly spreading structure that can fill non-critical surface irregularities.

Depending on the specific operating conditions, Epoxy floors can be classified according to the thickness of the lining being performed, they are:

  • thin layer, laid in 1 fill layer, the thickness of which is minimal and does not exceed 1 mm (usually from 0.5 mm), while practical properties and the attractiveness of the appearance of the material leaves much to be desired (intended for filling in the rooms of an apartment with low traffic);
  • Classic made of several layers of filling, each of which is 1 mm, which significantly increases the resistance of the flooring to mechanical damage, abrasion, resistance to abrasive solutions (an excellent floor covering for an apartment and a country house).

In addition, epoxy self-leveling floors are divided into:

  • Industrial varieties designed for industrial premises with high traffic and maximum level permissible load of a mechanical or chemical type, characterized by a variety of colors and textures;
  • quartz-filled fillings reaching a thickness of up to 6 mm, characterized by the presence of quartz sand in the lower layer, which increases the adhesion of the material to the base, improves the resistance of the filling to accidental mechanical damage, abrasive and chemicals and temperature fluctuations
  • Transparent epoxy self-leveling floor, characterized by a layer thickness of 2-5 mm, depending on the type of planned surface, distinctive features which is the minimum thickness of an optically transparent hardening film, light resistance, antistatic (an excellent material for decorating the floor with photo printing and 3D patterns).

Tools and materials

To fill with your own hands, you need to take care of the presence of some tools:

  • grinder;
  • conventional vacuum cleaner;
  • containers for epoxy floor;
  • drills with a nozzle for stirring;
  • long pile roller;
  • scraper;
  • needle roller;
  • gloves
  • airbrushes;
  • respirator;
  • spatula.

Minimum set materials is an arsenal in which there are:

  • deep penetration primer;
  • epoxy floor;
  • polyurethane varnish;
  • sealant for seams (near walls and doorways).

Device and technology

Filling a self-leveling epoxy floor is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. You can carry out high-quality installation yourself, using the necessary raw materials and tools, which, if necessary, can be replaced with what is at hand.

The process itself, consisting of several stages, is much easier than laying tiles:

  • Before the installation procedure, you need to prepare the base: It is important that its humidity does not exceed 4%, and the temperature in the room is from +5 to +25 degrees. In this case, the temperature of the mixture can vary from +15 to +25 degrees. If the floor is damp (you can apply a piece of plastic film for a day to detect condensation), the installation of an epoxy floor is excluded.

  • Initially, the floor is prepared: it is cleaned of debris, dust, oil stains and paint residues. The better it is prepared, the less filling material will be needed. All irregularities, chips, cracks are masked with putty or filled with a rough filler floor, which will make the base perfectly even.

  • After that, the floor is primed for 1-2 layers. If the base is smooth, you can roll the floor again with a roller with a primer or using a sprayer, which reduces the consumption of the solution and makes the application layer uniform. Each new layer of primer is applied only after the previous one dries.

  • The epoxy mass is prepared in parts strictly according to the instructions indicated on the package. After that, it is applied to the floor surface, focusing on the highest point. The maximum allowable slope of the horizontal plane is 2 mm per 2 sq. m of working surface. Following the technology, it is important to apply the material in wide stripes, while evenly distributing it over the surface of the prepared floor, using a doctor blade. To do the work in the corners perfectly, you need to use a spatula.

  • Since traces may remain on the surface of a wet floor, it is necessary to use paint trowels. When the material is completely filled, it is rolled over the entire area with a spiked roller, which will eliminate air bubbles. It is important to prevent drafts and sudden changes in temperature while the cladding dries.

In addition, it is worth bearing in mind: the solution begins to harden after 30 minutes, so the work should not be delayed. It is necessary to constantly add portions of the material to the surface, leveling the finish to the same level.

  • Usually self-leveling epoxy floors dry within 7 hours. However, in reality, it will take about two days. When polymerization (drying) is completed, you can pour finishing layer material. If floor decoration is planned by design, it is performed at this stage before the finish layer. It could be a little sparkle art painting floors with special acrylic paints according to a sketch conceived in advance, a regular banner print with a digital image or a 3D picture.

  • After the drawing is applied and dried, it is poured with a layer finish coat and let dry. Then it is necessary to process the floor covering with polyurethane varnish, after which it must be allowed to dry for two days. Once last layer finally hardens, furniture can be brought into the room. Epoxy resin flooring installation technology is good for concrete floor and allows pouring natural stone.

Colors

The color solutions of the self-leveling epoxy floor are varied and are subject to the intended design idea, as well as the purpose of a particular room. In offices, production shops, they are plain, sometimes transparent. In areas with low traffic use white, beige, olive, gray, blue, sand and terracotta color. In apartments, the situation is more cheerful: the surface is covered with multi-colored paints based on liquid acrylic for poured floor.

More often these are combinations of shades:

  • chocolate and milk;
  • black and white;
  • gray with cream or white;
  • purple, golden yellow and blue;
  • turquoise and sand.

Decor

One of the original design techniques is the use of stencils for decorating, by means of which a variety of plain and color patterns are applied to a colored monochromatic lining, imitating carpets, special compositions, zoning space. In addition, the theme of the pattern used to decorate self-leveling epoxy floors depends on the type of room in which the floor is finished.

The most interesting pictures of space decoration are:

  • colors of the sea depths with their inhabitants;
  • floral stylized ornaments;
  • African and other ethnic motifs;
  • abstract sketches;
  • all kinds of curls in combination with large flowers;
  • stone and brickwork;
  • all kinds of plant compositions, tree branches and leaves.

Compound

Active ingredients polymer material, called two-component, are epoxy resin, the necessary hardeners, solvents and plasticizers. In addition, the components of the cladding are additional components to improve practical and aesthetic characteristics, uniform distribution of the mixture over the top of the subfloor or screed, as well as inorganic colorants.

If the components of the epoxy floor are latex, polyurethane and casein, the composition acquires elasticity and becomes more resistant to weight. In addition to the main components that determine the performance properties, decorative inclusions are often added to the mass, among which shiny mother-of-pearl and reflective particles, glitter, flock, diamond or mineral chips and textile fibers (chips) are especially popular.

Adding decor often complicates the grinding process, although it gives flooring unique appearance and often changes the texture, which can be:

  • glossy;
  • moderately glossy;
  • semi-matte;
  • matte.

How to calculate quantity?

To find out the material consumption per 1 m2, it is worth calculating the area of ​​​​the planned processing, multiplying the length by the width, and then correlate it with the density of the solution. Approximately 1 liter of filling is enough for 1 sq. m floor at minimum thickness up to 1 mm. If the density of the material is greater, for example, 1.3 kg / l, 1.3 kg of finished material will be needed to process a meter of floor.

In order to reduce costs trade marks may include additives in the composition of the material that make the weight of the raw material heavier, which increases the density of the finish to 1.75 kg / l. In this case, the consumption also increases, which will be 1.75 kg per 1 sq. m floor. To buy right amount, it is important to always look at the density of the material indicated on the package.

The necessary floor filling is selected in accordance with the purpose of a particular room, while it is undesirable to apply a thick layer to rid the floor of height differences. Usually, self-leveling mixtures are used for leveling, which allow correcting the level of height difference up to 8-10 cm. epoxy potting curved floor: this will hit the pocket, can cause poor impact resistance, because the material itself is designed exclusively for thin layers of application.

It is worth considering: a thin-layer self-leveling floor based on epoxy resin is more expensive than classic compositions. Choose a material with an elongation at break of at least 5% (up to 9% is acceptable) with a compound density of no more than 1.5 kg/l.

A flooring for a room teeming with electrical appliances must be anti-static, if necessary capable of blocking any static charges. When choosing a finish for a kitchen or bathroom floor, where moisture will inevitably get on the surface, you should opt for mixtures with an anti-slip effect.

For hallways, quartz-filled varieties are good. If you need the perfect strong mixture, you should look at the epoxy-polyurethane material. You should not experiment with paints: leave water and latex varieties for other surfaces.

The finish layer is responsible for the color of the floor covering. Do not fill the floor canvas with more than three or four layers. This is quite enough. If an epoxy resin floor is the focal point of the floor, it is best to match the finish with the tile. In other cases, it is allowed to combine material on a monophonic basis and a companion with a pattern.

Manufacturers and reviews

Epoxy soundproof self-leveling floor receives a lot of rave reviews left on the Internet. Buyers who have installed this material note that this finish looks unusual and modern. Such floors are easy to maintain and do not accumulate dirt, moving away from the surface quickly enough. Walking on such a floor covering is pleasant, it is durable and does not break if furnishings fall on the surface.