Do-it-yourself installation of flexible tiles: step-by-step instructions for the work. How to avoid the formation of "waves" on the tiles? List of typical mistakes and frequently occurring problems during the installation of shingles

When examining leaky shingle roofs, it is not surprising that it often turns out that most problems are not the result of wear or other operational damage, but the result of errors in the installation of a soft roof. Some of these flaws are difficult to correct, others can be corrected even several years after the installation of the roof.

When a customer reports a leaking roof, he often has his own (not always correct) ideas about the causes of leaks. After listening carefully, we begin our survey with a series of clarifying questions. How long does the roof leak? Have there been leaks in this area before? How long has the roof been in operation?

If a leak appears and disappears over a long period, the cause is most likely a design flaw or improper choice of materials. If the roof is 20 years old, the matter is most likely in its dilapidation. If the house is new (2-3 years), then the reason lies, as a rule, in the errors of roof installation. First of all, we ask you to show traces of water in the house and try to determine whether the roof is to blame. Sometimes leaks that seem to be related to the roof actually turn out to be wall or window cladding problems.

Having examined the house from the inside, we go to the roof, where we narrow the search to an area with a radius of 3-4 m with a center in the area where the leak occurs inside the house. Then we check the coating - evaluate its condition, look for punctures from nails or tree branches.

Inaccurately removed ventilation risers and chimneys, cable glands, satellite antenna mounts - all this may be among possible causes leaks. We especially carefully check the valleys, which are prone to leaks. If the problems lie in the valley, we replace it entirely, without even trying to do small patching of holes.

Poorly fixed flooring

The most common problem I encounter when inspecting a structure. If the flooring sags, then the fasteners "self-pull out", as a result of which protruding nail heads damage plates soft tiles and cause leaks. However, pushing out nails is quite possible with time and on a well-made roof. When I find a problematic nail, I pull it out and then replace the damaged plate.

The first row of bituminous tiles is incorrectly laid

It's amazing how often I find leaks due to the fact that the joints of the plates in the starting and first rows coincide. Such an arrangement will certainly leak along the lower edge of the slope and lead to decay of the ends of the rafters and other structural elements.

If the structure is not damaged, then the repair in this situation is simple: you need to pull out a few nails and insert metal inserts between the roofing plates of the starting and first rows, covering the unprotected joints. These plates can be fixed with nails or drops of sealant.

Of course, if the decking is damaged, then you will first have to remove several rows of roofing plates, replace the damaged wooden details, lay a waterproof membrane coating and only then restore the roof rows.

If the roofing plates are loose, the wind lifts the edges, allowing water to penetrate under the roofing. The number of cases of improper fastening should include a lack of fasteners, their location too high or low on the plate, and other shortcomings. Always follow the recommended plate fixing pattern and storm plate on all roofs in windy areas and on roofs with slopes greater than 10:12.

Position your nails correctly. They should pass through the fastening strip directly under the adhesive strip, where they will be covered by the petals of the plates of the next row. Open nails are the right way for water under the roof.

Leaks are often caused by flaws in the roof structure, which usually occur at the design stage. Design errors include improper placement of gutters or valleys that direct water to walls, poor location dormer windows, an illiterate choice of a place for a chimney, which prevents the flow of water, and an overly intricate outline of the roof.

It is almost impossible to correct such flaws in the project, since the house has already been built, but it is imperative to pay close attention to areas where leaks are likely due to this.

It may seem strange, but plates with a continuous adhesive strip can themselves cause leaks. Water, having fallen under a plate with a continuous adhesive strip on the side, will not be able to flow down and will move to the side until it finds an exit point, which is, as a rule, at the junction between the plates. This is where the leak starts. Valleys, chimneys, internal drains, vents are the most vulnerable places for water, allowing water to penetrate under the roof. Such leaks are very difficult to detect and eliminate their cause. Therefore, it is better not to risk it and use plates with an intermittent adhesive strip. If you must use sheets with a continuous adhesive strip, make sure that the aprons of the valleys and chimneys do not direct water into places where it can find its way under the coating.

Avoid using plates with a continuous adhesive strip. Water that has fallen under the plate on the side has no way out. Plates with intermittent adhesive strip allow water to drain through every interval.

"Fracture" of the package

Some roofers make the big mistake of loading a package of plates onto the roof, laying it down with the package folded over on the ridge. This can cause the plates to break and separate their layers, which will certainly affect the life of the new roof.

Always place packages on a flat roof surface. And further. Since cold plates are more prone to cracking, try to avoid roofing works in cold weather, except in emergencies.

Do not bend the roofing plates over the ridge. This can lead to damage to the underlying material and reduce the life of the roof. Place packages on flat roof, and use a stop to prevent them from slipping.

Connection errors

One of the causes of leaks may be incorrect installed elements adjoining. For example, if the apron covers the adhesive strip of the roofing plate, then the plate of the next (upper, above the adjoining, row) will not be glued to the bottom.

Sometimes they try to solve this problem by moving the apron slightly up so that its upper edge is higher than the edge of the roofing plate. When a nail is driven into the junction element, the upper edge of the roofing plate turns into a fulcrum. As a result, the flashing raises the bottom edge of the next row of roofing plate, creating a gap into which water can enter. The roofer attempts to remedy this by driving a nail into the bottom edge of the junction that will not be covered by the next row, which can also cause a leak.

The reason for many leaks is poor waterproofing of chimneys. However, before fixing this problem, check the condition of the masonry and make sure there are no loose bricks. The most common mistake when waterproofing chimneys, it lies in the fact that roofers do not close the aprons flanging into the masonry.

The junction here should be made only from a strip curved on the machine sheet metal, strictly L-shaped in profile, carefully closing the apron into the solution between the rows of masonry. Connection made without the use of bending machine, - a serious signal, indicating the inattention of the master to details. If you find a roof with a carelessly made chimney insulation, immediately look for other defects nearby.

Chimney waterproofing is a job for a professional. The places where chimneys and roofs meet are potential areas for leaks. If the masons did not put the aprons into the mortar between the rows of masonry, and the connection was made with nails and putty, this is very bad. The seams should be grooved with an angle grinder so that the apron can be securely patched between rows of masonry.

Leakage can easily occur due to operational damage to the roof. TV or satellite dishes, skylights and ventilation hatches cannot be installed at random, but this happens quite often.

Overgrown tree branches can also destroy the integrity of the coating, and excessive shading of the roof contributes to the growth of moss on its surface, which also leads to damage to the roof.

Careless covering of valleys

One has only to be surprised that most of the valleys do not flow, given the widespread use of self-adhesive waterproof films in the practice of roofing as a coating in the valleys. Some inexpensive films have a warranty period of only 5 years. Roofing plates with a service life of 50 years over a film with a resource of 5 years are nonsense. The only one reliable way eliminate the leak in the valley - completely block this problem area. When repairing valleys, always use not only a waterproof film, but also a metal apron.

Repairing a valley usually means covering it completely. Starting at the top, remove one entire roof plate from each side of the valley. Accuracy is extremely important here, since how well it can be reassembled depends on the thoroughness of disassembling the roof.

Roofing with undercut blades in valleys is often done incorrectly (left). Valleys with a metal apron are reliable (on the right).

Removing a damaged plate without harming its undamaged neighbors is not an easy task. This work is best done when the plates are cold enough that they won't buckle under your feet, but warm enough that they won't crack as you work. In summer, such repairs are best done in the early morning. In winter, such work should be avoided, except in urgent cases.

	Separate the glued plates in a row below and two rows above the plate to be removed. This may turn out not an easy task. Roofing plates, the service life of which is up to 50 years, are glued very firmly. In such cases, the adhesive strip will have to be cut.
	After the plates are separated from each other, you can remove the nails holding the damaged plate.
	Before removing the plate, you need to pull out four more nails in a row
	Now you can pull out the damaged plate, put a new one in its place and again fix the previously freed plates with nails.

When fixing the repair plate, do not drive new nails into the holes from the previously pulled ones - they will most likely be squeezed out. Hammer nails next to the old holes, and put a little sealant into the last ones. Also glue all torn edges of the plates with sealant.

The roof is the face of the house. That is why this part of the structure must be given Special attention, but you may have considerable difficulties in the process of choosing a roofing material, as there are many "rumors" about a soft roof. Let's still find out what is "truth" and what is "false" relative to.

Myth number 1: Soft roofing is the same roofing material only more expensive

Actuallycomparison of these materials causes indignation among specialists.

In order to understand what is the difference or similarity of these roofing materials, you must first find out what is the basis of the material. The basis of roofing material - recycled waste paper - paper! The basis of a soft roof - fiberglass. Fiberglass, unlike paper, does not rot - this is the first and most important difference!

For production, high-quality bitumen is used with the addition of SBS-innovative polymer, which is coated on both sides of fiberglass, which makes it durable material compared to roofing material, for which ordinary bitumen is used.

Upper layer roofing material - the surface is not protected from ultraviolet rays, which is why the service life is only 5 years. The top layer of soft roofing is stone granulate, which protects bitumen from any external influences owing to which the service life is more than 50 years.

Myth #2: Soft roofing is a very expensive roofing material that only the very rich can afford.

Actuallyone of the most common myths.

First, the “very rich people” are willing to purchase roofing material for their home, such as slate, copper, and, of course, soft roof… right?

Secondly, yes - flexible tiles are not cheap, but compared to the above roofing materials, it stands out for its democratic price.

Most likely, this rumor was generated by the owners of houses with outdated roofs, who know only one roofing material - slate. So, after a certain time, everyone who has a house is faced with the problem of choosing a roofing material. Often the choice falls on flexible tiles, because it is beautiful and reliable material. Comparing the price of an outdated slate or low-quality roofing material with a flexible tile, the difference becomes so obvious that it is hard not to notice. In this case, of course, flexible tiles are an expensive roofing material. Unfortunately, it does not happen that a cheap roof can be of high quality, reliable and durable.

Remember that saving on a roof is just as absurd as it is on a foundation. The service life of the entire building depends on the quality of the roofing material.. The question "cheap or expensive thing" for each person is individual.

Myth #3: In the cold, shingles will crack and break.

Actuallythis assumption is partly correct.

The fact is that each of the materials on the market has its own characteristics of production and specifications, so to speak, "recipe" shingles. Some manufacturers of soft roofs use oxidized bitumen, which is the main reason for the fragility of the roofing material, it cracks in the cold and does not withstand mechanical pressure (you cannot move on such a roof).

However, if flexible tiles are made on the basis of polymer-modified bitumen (SBS), then it easily withstands the conditions of the Russian harsh winter. SBS is styrene-butadiene-styrene or artificial rubber. The unique molecular structure of polymers interacts with bitumen, increasing its flexibility, elasticity and strength over a wide range of temperatures and reducing the bitumen's sensitivity to extreme temperatures. The bending of such material at sub-zero temperatures shows flexibility and absence of cracks at very low temperatures.

Myth #4: Shingles warp in the sun and boards show through

In fact, unevenness will occur on the roof only if low-quality (raw) boards, plywood or OSB boards. We recommend using high-quality OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood, and if you still use edged board, then it should be natural drying!

Myth #5: Shingles fade

In fact, the color of Katepal shingles is provided by the surface of the stone granules, which are thermochemically colored, i.e. the coloring enzyme penetrates into the structure of the stone, and does not just break through from above, so the granules do not lose their original color. It is also UV protection.

This misconception is born from homeowners when examining the roof. If you bend (raise) the shingle of the top row, the color of the granulate under it will turn out to be much darker and more saturated. There is a very simple explanation for this: not those granules that are visible, but those that are covered with subsequent shingles, are subject to change.

The difference in the color of the tile granulate on the upper "petals" and "under the petals" occurs due to the fact that bitumen, which has an oily dark structure, is absorbed from the upper layer by granules of the lower, which is why the top shingles appear “faded”, more faded. Hence the erroneous opinion is born that the roofing material fades.

Myth No. 6: Very difficult installation in cold weather!

Really difficult - but possible!

Cannot be mounted in the rain and snowfall, the presence of the SBS modifier allows you to work with negative temperatures, but some conditions must be met:

1. The tile before laying is stored in a warm room for 2-3 days.
2. For better adhesion, the adhesive layer of the tile warms up building hair dryer, in extreme cases, glued with a thermal gun.
3. All metal elements that require bending, bend only in a warm room.

Bituminous glue for work must be heated in a water bath (it is strictly forbidden to dilute it with acetone and other additives).

Myth No. 7: The need for additional expenses due to a solid foundation

In fact, a solid base - design feature shingle roofing.

Just as a foundation is needed for a house, so is a roof, for example, made of natural tiles- powerful crate and reinforced roof structure, for the proper functioning of the under-roof space, competent ventilation is necessary. To neglect these requirements, to perceive them as an extra waste of money, is at least wrong. Each material has its own prerequisites, without which its use is impossible.

We hope that your choice of roofing material will be based on convincing facts, and not on the delusions of the majority.

List of typical mistakes and frequently occurring problems during the installation of shingles

1. Laying bituminous tiles on a roof with a slope less than the maximum allowable

Such cases are characterized by the frequent occurrence of leaks. They occur due to increased rain and wind load on the joints of the shingles.

2. The length of the roofing nails is less than the thickness of the wooden base

Short nails that have not penetrated through the boardwalk gradually come out due to the natural deformation of wood under the influence of humidity and temperature.

3. Bracketing

– soft material, so some believe that it can be attached to the slope with construction stapler. However, this tool is not suitable for this operation. The depth and uniformity of stapling will depend on the hardness and uniformity of the wood layers, which can vary significantly in different areas. Because of this, according to the experience of Stroymet engineers, it is impossible to ensure a tight, uniform fit of the tiles to the base.

4. Low level roof space ventilation

Accumulation of water vapor and condensation on wooden and metal structures leads to their gradual destruction.

5. Lack of vapor barrier

Causes moisture to enter other elements roofing cake significantly degrading their performance.

6. Laying a solid base is done without gaps

Due to the swelling of wood in wet weather, the surface of the flooring becomes uneven and can be damaged. At the same time, not only the level of tightness of the flexible tiles and the roof as a whole decreases, but also worsens appearance roofs.

7. Shingles do not stick to underlayment or valley carpet

This causes serious leaks of flexible tiles during rains and during the period of snow melting.

8. The solid base is made of boards or sheet materials insufficient thickness. There are no supports under the junction lines of the boards

It is dangerous to move along the slope, the base may not support the weight of the workers who install the flexible tiles, as well as the snow load.

9. Leaky connections to vertical elements (eg chimneys)

Lead to regular leaks.

10. Shingles of tiles are fixed with roofing nails along the top edge

Because of this, the fastener does not fall into the previous shingle below. The joint area becomes especially vulnerable to wind loading.

Common misconceptions when installing a soft roof

• Roofing nails must not penetrate wooden base through.
• The solid base must be mounted without gaps.
• For normal ventilation of the under-roof space, slots in the area of ​​​​cornice overhangs are quite enough.
• The use of vapor barrier materials when installing a soft roof is not mandatory.
• Soft roofing can be used on roofs with any slope slope.

ALL OF THESE STATEMENTS ARE WRONG!

During the operation of a soft roof, swellings of various diameters may occur on its surface. The reason for their formation is a violation of the installation technology of a soft roof in terms of vapor barrier. This may be the lack of a vapor barrier or its improper installation during the installation of the roof. The heat flow, which rises from the premises upwards towards the roof, carries a significant amount of moisture. During the passage of the roofing cake, it condenses and accumulates in the gap between the roofing materials and their substrate. AT winter period This moisture repeatedly freezes and thaws over the years, which leads to the delamination of the soft roof and its gradual destruction. AT warm time years, moisture is converted into hot steam and increases its volume up to 40 times. For this reason, blisters with a diameter of more than one meter can form on the surface of the soft roof.

To eliminate swelling, they are cut in the shape of an envelope, and the corners are turned away and the contents are thoroughly dried. The inner and outer sides of the corners are cleaned of adhering dirt and moisture. After that, they are lubricated with a special mastic and glued back to the roof surface. A patch is fixed on top of the damaged area, the size of which should overlap the cuts at a distance of at least 100 mm. The edges of the patch are puttied, and the top is carefully treated with mastic. If the soft roof was made of welded materials, then you can refuse to use mastic. In this case, all gluing operations are carried out using blowtorch or gas burner.

Roof repairs in Moscow are similarly carried out by most construction companies that have extensive experience in this area and qualified personnel.

The standard set of tasks for a real man, as you know, includes three items: give birth to a son, plant a tree and build a house. And today, among the representatives of the stronger sex, regardless of profession and status, there are many who seek to literally bring them to life. The more easy to use modern materials and technology allow us to successfully carry out construction and repair work on our own country house. For example, to achieve guaranteed reliability and durability pitched roof possible, thanks to the use of a lining carpet. It forms a continuous waterproofing layer, through which moisture that has penetrated into the under-roof space simply flows off without harming the structure.

Now this progressive specialized material is also produced in Russia. ANDEREP underlayment carpets of TECHNONICOL Corporation successfully compete in foreign markets and make quality independent of imports for Russian consumers. A non-professional builder can easily handle their installation. However, there are a number of nuances, the neglect of which is fraught with a decrease in efficiency. About them - below.

Substrate preparation and installation conditions

Successful functioning of the underlayment and finish coat largely depends on a well-prepared base and the conditions in which the installation was carried out. Therefore, it is extremely important not to make mistakes at these stages. Base plates - OSB, or moisture-resistant plywood must be laid with a gap of no more than 3 mm. Otherwise, during the process of thermal expansion, the surface may be deformed, unevenness will be created on the lining carpet, and the roof will lose, at least in aesthetic appeal. Installation on wet substrates or "spring installation" can also lead to the formation of wavy folds on the surface. During the winter, structures inevitably gain moisture, and at positive temperatures they begin to give it back. The expert recommends avoiding haste and starting laying the material only when the building frame and the surface to be mounted are in the same temperature regime and within acceptable humidity. For lathing structures, the permissible humidity is not more than 20%, for solid wooden decking(OSB and moisture resistant plywood) - no more than 12%.

Wrinkles and waves on the lining carpet can also occur if it is installed in different temperature and time frames. For example, the team may start work in the evening when the air temperature drops and the material hardens. At such a time, even small folds on the material will be invisible. In the morning, when the temperature rises, the lining carpet will soften, begin to adhere tightly to the surface, and the irregularities allowed will gather into large folds. To prevent this from happening, the installation of the lining carpet must be carried out in the same temperature regime with its maximum softness and suppleness, that is, during the day and at one time of the year.

Alexey Vorobyov

The right choice of underlayment

The need for a lining carpet today is understood by many. But it is important not just to lay a lining carpet, but to choose a solution that is most suitable for a specific construction task. A common mistake is to replace specialized products with cheap roofing materials, most often roofing material. Savings in this case is very doubtful. The strength characteristics of the roofing material below. Unlike underlayment carpets, it does not have a "self-healing" function. Huge number holes formed in the process of mechanical fastening of itself and the roofing material and increased in the process, for example, by seasonal deformations, turn such a coating into a "sieve". Moisture that gets into the under-roof space will almost certainly fall on a wooden base and can lead to its decay and destruction. Lining carpets, unlike roofing material, create a continuous protective layer even on complex surfaces. But even among them it is important to choose the right one. For example, any product of the ANDEREP line is suitable for flexible tiles. But the use of economical lining carpets ANDEREP GL and ANDEREP GL PLUS, specially designed only for flexible tiles, with other roofing materials - metal sheets, ceramic tiles etc. fraught with problems.

To do this, it is better to choose the universal ultra-light lining carpets ANDEREP PROF and ANDEREP PROF PLUS, and in places where roofs from shingles and tiles are most likely to leak, it is recommended to use ANDEREP ULTRA.

ANDEREP GL and ANDEREP GL PLUS are based on fiberglass. It gives the necessary strength, but does not have resistance to stretching, respectively, materials based on it do not withstand deformation well. For higher loads, ANDEREP PROF, ANDEREP PROF PLUS and ANDEREP ULTRA materials are suitable, based on durable and stretchable polyester.

Alexey Vorobyov

Installation of "self-adhesive" and underlay carpets with mechanical fastening

A simple and optimal installation solution is self-adhesive underlays such as ANDEREP ULTRA. To mount them, you just need to remove protective film and roll the material to the base. It adheres tightly to the surface without forming air gaps. But when working with self-adhesive materials, it is extremely important to observe several conditions. The material must be laid on the most dry and clean surface. And the air temperature during work should not be lower than + 10˚C. In addition, in places of increased loads, for example, in the valley area, it is necessary to additionally apply mechanical fastening.

The most common use of underlayment carpets with mechanical fastening. This method of installation is practical and uncomplicated. However, it is extremely important to correctly calculate required amount fasteners - if you do not comply with the norms, with strong gusts of wind there will be a risk of tearing the material from the surface. The overlaps of the material sheets must necessarily be fastened with special roofing mastics. This is a rather laborious process. This year, TECHNONICOL launched the upgraded ANDEREP GL PLUS and ANDEREP PROF PLUS materials on the market. Unlike their "big brothers" (ANDEREP GL and ANDEREP PROF, respectively), they are equipped with special adhesive (bitumen-free) strips - to fasten the sheets, you only need to remove the protective film and stick the next sheet to the adhesive surface. The use of such materials reduces the consumption of mastic, makes installation less laborious and increases the reliability of joints.

When installing any underlayment, it is extremely important to ensure its maximum tension and fit to the surface. Therefore, installation must begin after the material rolled out of the roll is completely straightened. The behavior of lining carpets on the roof largely depends on their foundation. If the requirements for the moisture content of the wood used in construction are not met, wrinkles may form on materials with a fiberglass base in the areas of the joints of the base. To avoid such a problem, it is necessary to reduce the step of attaching the material to the base and provide additional mechanical fasteners in the middle, in several rows. Super-thin backing carpets with a polyester backing are flexible and when creases occur, they simply wrinkle, preventing the material from picking up the surface roofing. But, accordingly, their price is more expensive.

Alexey Vorobyov

Timely protection of the underlayment

Underlayment carpets are designed for laying under the finish coat. Bitumen mixture without special protection is not designed for long-term exposure to ultraviolet radiation. The sanding on the material is intended only to ensure the safe movement of the person who is installing. It is advisable to leave such material without a finish coat for no more than a week. But the lining carpets ANDEREP GL PLUS, ANDEREP PROF, ANDEREP PROF PLUS and ANDEREP ULTRA will not lose their properties under direct influence environment throughout half a year.

During the installation of the roof, for various reasons, interruptions in work may occur. A number of lining carpets in such situations can effectively perform the functions of a temporary roof for a sufficiently long period. ANDEREP GL PLUS, ANDEREP PROF, ANDEREP PROF PLUS materials have this ability protective covering non-woven polypropylene (Spunbond), and ANDEREP ULTRA - an increased content of quality modifiers contained in the bituminous mixture.

Alexey Vorobyov

Thus, right choice lining carpet and strict adherence to the manufacturer's instructions will allow those who are used to doing everything themselves to provide reliable and durable protection pitched roof Houses.