How to caulk a log house is a difficult matter in simple words. How to caulk a bathhouse correctly and when to do it How best to caulk an old bathhouse

What is caulk? In fact, this is the process of compacting a log house with fibrous materials - moss, tow and others; at the same time, a heat-insulating material can be used as a mezhventsovy insulation - flax-jute fiber, polyurethane foam, for example. But it is not so easy to caulk correctly - you will learn about all the intricacies and features of this process from this article. So, how to caulk a log house - with moss, tow, tape and sealants.

Correct work technology

As soon as the blockhouse is laid, it is still impossible to caulk it - after all, there is shrinkage ahead. You can understand, of course, the desire of those building the bath to make money, why they propose to bury everything right there, but this should be done only after at least six months.

So, as soon as the frame has shrunk, you can begin to caulk it - from the bottom up, from the very bottom crown. This should be done like this: one seam is caulked, strictly along the perimeter of the entire log house - outside, then inside. It is impossible to caulk each wall separately - otherwise the frame will warp over time. The same applies to the separate caulking of the outer and inner sides - because of this, a dangerous vertical deflection of the walls can easily occur.

Caulking is a thorough and heavy business. At the same time, the master is obliged to constantly monitor the log house so that there are no distortions of the walls. And it's bad if, after caulking, the whole blockhouse has risen to a whole crown - this will invariably lead to the falling of the logs from the dowels or locks, and therefore it is better not to allow this.

What material should you give preference to?

So, here are the most common materials for caulking a log bath from a log house:

Moss - like the good old days

Moss is an environmentally friendly material that has medicinal properties. It resists temperature extremes and drying well, absorbs moisture, but does not rot. And most importantly, it has antimicrobial and tonic properties, and at the same time it serves for a long time.

This caulking material has been used since ancient times. Today it cannot be called the best, but many bath owners use only it during construction.

So, when laying, you can only use highly moistened moss - then after the shrinkage of the log house, it will turn into a homogeneous dense mass that will fill all cavities and cracks. Therefore, you won't have to caulk the bath anymore. However, experienced builders advise against attaching special importance to the historical experience of its use - such a finish is still quite expensive.

Oakum - not everything is so smooth

Oak caulking is the most difficult. When the log shrinks, it will gradually gain moisture and eventually rot, turning into dust. And then you will have to clean out this insulation, re-caulk everything and tightly fill the empty cavities - and this will take a lot of time and effort.

Sealants - modern technologies

Sealants for a log bath are much more expensive than tow, but they also have their undeniable advantages. Sealants as caulking means are suitable if the log house is cylindrical, or well cut from an ordinary log, and the groove in it is semicircular. And if there is jute linen in it between the logs. In this case, you can really do with one sealant. But, if the blockhouse was made using a chainsaw, and the groove in it is triangular - here it is already necessary to fill the void, i.e. caulk for real.

If you use a sealant with tow, then everything should happen according to the following scheme: the bath is caulked with tow twice, and after its complete shrinkage, the seams are sealed. And in order to save sealant, it is advisable to lay a cord from insulation in the grooves.

Moreover, for seams of different widths - different types of sealant. But the seams are light and neat. And the risk of subsequent caulking is gone.

Caulking with tape insulation

One of the simplest caulking methods is tape caulking. It does not need to be cut into strips, which makes the whole process much easier. And you need to do it like this:

• Step 1. First, you need to go to one of the ends of the log house, put the end of the tape on the ground, and, while unwinding it, gradually move to the other end. You do not need to cut the tape - it is only important that it does not twist and go in a strip. And most importantly, the tape should not be pulled, it should go slightly relaxed.

• Step 2. Returning to the beginning of the tape, you need to lift it at the end and start sticking it between the rims right from the end - the tool that was selected depending on the available gaps. As soon as it has already been passed to the end, you need to leave a margin of 10-20 cm - and only then can the tape be cut, and only with well-sharpened scissors.
• Step 3. At this stage, you can already caulk the tape. But only a little - otherwise it will go in folds. Moreover, it is necessary to caulk it not in one stage, but in several - until the tape disappears in the logs all, and the stock that was left initially also disappears. As for the process itself, the tape should be pushed as if diagonally.
• Step 4. Now you need to repeat everything - between the same crowns. Oddly enough, two or three ribbons will still easily enter there, depending on their density. Those. the caulking of the insulation itself takes at least four times than it was originally used when laying it - and this is only when caulking outside, while according to all the rules, the same must be done inside.

So, if the padding of the insulation has become dense, like wood, the caulking has gone well. By the way, masters advise taking at least 10 mm jute - and the thicker it is, the better.

But today a Chinese instrument is considered a quite worthy alternative, which is not expensive and is quite acceptable in quality.

By the way, if you use a solid tool for caulking, then chips and dents cannot be avoided - after all, it will slide off. Soft caulk is more difficult to use, but you can make it right on the spot, with your own hands. Wooden caulkers with curved edges are also being made today, for which it is quite easy to penetrate into the depth of the seam, but you need skill to use them.

In general, everything is within the power of a Russian person!

Built of timber, laid, the roof is closed, and the windows are inserted - it's time to insulate the frame. Cracks can be caulked traditionally - with moss, modern material - jute or tow. How to do it correctly and what to prefer after all - read the article and watch the video.

How to choose the right material for insulation. Which is the best fit

It is almost impossible to answer unequivocally, the more correct it is to caulk a wooden bath. Each material has pros and cons, so you need to familiarize yourself with their characteristics, and only then make a final decision.

Moss... You can buy at a hardware store or type it yourself in the forest. Warming with its help was practiced by our grandfathers, and their experience can certainly be trusted. True, now this material is far from a favorite, because there are new ones that are more convenient to use. Nevertheless, the advantages of moss include:

• environmental friendliness;
• medicinal properties;
• profitability;
• resistance to decay;
• resistance to temperature extremes.

Of the minuses, it is necessary to highlight:

• exposure to moisture;
• fragility;
• high fire hazard;
• fragility when dry;
• laboriousness of the warming process.

Tow. It can be made from hemp, jute or flax and is sold in rolls and square blocks. The first option is more convenient, because individual strips need to be pulled out of the blocks, twisted and placed in the slot. Among the advantages of the material:

• naturalness;
• low cost.

Perhaps this is where the visible advantages of tow end. Minuses:

• difficulties in use. If over time you decide to remove the tow from the seams, you will suffer;
• attractive to mice and moths.

Advice. Tow is a kind of alternative to moss, which many experts advise to give preference to if you choose only between these two options.

Felt. It can be natural or with the addition of artificial fibers. The first is preferable, since it is less fire hazardous (it burns worse). Felt advantages:

• environmental friendliness;
• ease of use.

• exposure to moisture and decay;
• high price;
• high risk of moths. In addition, often the felt becomes the object of encroachments by mice and birds, which pick it out from the seams.

Linen and flax fiber... Made from flax waste. Batting is a material with the addition of artificial fibers. It is more convenient to lay as it is produced in the form of ribbons. Flax fiber is similar to tow, so working with it takes patience. The materials do not absorb moisture and are resistant to decay. You can distinguish one from another by color: natural flax fiber is darker than flax.

Jute. This is one of the most popular options among modern owners who build and then insulate the bath with their own hands. It is made from the wood of the linden family. Characteristics - feast for the eyes:

• high strength;
• resistance to moisture and decay;
• good thermal insulation;
• environmental friendliness;
• ease of use - sold in the form of rolled strips.

Among the shortcomings, it is worth noting that jute can stick together under conditions of excessive pressure loads. True, you can try to avoid this if you choose a heater with the maximum density.

Attention! Jute and jute felt are not the same thing. The second material has the same disadvantages as any other fiber felt.

Subtleties of the caulking process

The advantages of a caulked bath are obvious: it requires less fuel, and it takes less time to warm up the premises. Therefore, despite the fact that the work is painstaking and time-consuming, it is better not to neglect it.

Bath cauldron: video

Materials for caulking a bath: photo

Cauliflower with moss

In caulking with moss, the main thing is no longer the observance of technological subtleties - in this respect, it is much simpler than caulking with fibrous materials - but the preparation of the material. More precisely, purchase. Forest and marsh building moss goes on sale, but self-harvesting of tree moss is possible only in some very remote places from civilization, and self-harvesting of marsh moss in most developed countries is prohibited and punishable by law: in recent decades, the extremely important role of bogs as accumulators of moisture and regulators has been revealed. natural processes. In addition, mosses actively accumulate in themselves a variety of both useful and harmful microelements; bog moss is a natural filter of radionuclides. Caulking with moss collected on your own, you risk not only infecting the log house with rot, mold and pests, but also yourself and your loved ones are no better at all.

The best moss for caulking is marsh sphagnum, or cuckoo flax, pos. 1 in rice: it never wakes up in buildings and releases substances that protect wood from damage. But it is impossible to caulk with bright green fresh sphagnum (pos. 2) - it, on the contrary, will spoil the frame. You need to caulk with moss (both marsh and forest), dried to wilting without prettiness, pos. 3. This moss is sold in bags (item 4). In them, it must be stored before use, without allowing complete drying out: moss, still a little alive, is suitable for hemp. Overdried gray or brown building moss (pos. 5) is not a caulking material, but an insulating material. By the way, very good.

Note: it is impossible to caulk with rock and ground moss - it will definitely contain substrate particles with embryos of wood pests.

Moss caulking order

Caulk with moss before winter. In the spring, when it’s warm, but it’s not dry yet, they check the hanging scallops (see below) and pluck the green ones. Then the scallops are knocked into the grooves. At the same time, it is very important to prevent the caulking from drying out: if the moss begins to crumble under the caulking tool, the whole caulking will never be whole, and once every 2-5 years you will have to do repeated caulking, and the whole blockhouse will not stand as long as it can. A year later, the building is checked and, if it has split, a secondary caulking is carried out with the same (!) Moss.

Sphagnum moss is laid out in the grooves when assembling a log house with a mountain (item 1 in the figure below), because it is strongly caked under pressure. Swamp moss festoons should hang abundantly from the grooves, pos. 2. Immediately after the assembly of the log house, moss is added to the remaining slots (shown by arrows in pos. 2), knocking from above with an oblique wooden caulk. Quite easily reviving tree moss, on the contrary, is laid out sparingly, but tightly so that there are no empty cracks, pos. 3. Its scallops should protrude from the grooves of the assembled log house by approx. half-palm, but not hanging, pos. 4. The overhangs (shown by the arrow in pos. 4) are cut off.

Instead of moss

In coastal areas, you can find durable chopped buildings, buried instead of moss with camouflage - thrown ashore by storms by sea grass by zoster or scum. Kamka is also a good insulation material and as such is now sold dried, but you can only caulk with fresh, moist damask. But hemp with a dam is excellent: it releases salts into the tree, making it unsuitable for the settlement of pests, and iodine into the air of the room. Which, as you know, among other useful properties, promotes the elimination of cumulative poisons and radionuclides from the body. Caulk is caulked like moss, with some differences: it is disassembled into flat strands and laid out in the grooves of a log house with a herringbone without gaps so that the ends hang down on a half-log. Upon completion of the assembly of the log house, the ends are knocked into the grooves with a wooden caulk.

Synthetics and sealants

Synthetic hemp is used in combination with a rough jute tape, or, for "aesthetics", with a twisted white jute cord. The roughing tape in the grooves of the log house for caulking with sealants is placed without wings, flush with the edges of the groove. If the logs have a Finnish groove, then the edges of the tape should lie exactly on the longitudinal cutouts in the log under the edge projections of the upper log groove.

Sealants for wood are chemically neutral polyurethane: silicone is less consistent with wood in terms of mechanical and physicochemical properties (in particular, in terms of the coefficient of thermal expansion TCR), and is destroyed under the action of even very weak acids. In turn, the solvent for silicone - acetic acid - spoils the wood, so do not try to replace special wood sealants with conventional construction materials. Synthetics are used to caulk mainly logs made of glued logs and beams - their estimated service life is the same as that of the glued seams of re-glued sawn timber.

Caulking with sealants is quick and simple: the initial composition is squeezed out of the tube into the groove, pos. 1 in Fig .. When it grabs, the seams are putty on top of the finishing compound to match the wood, pos. 2 .:

There is also a "supermodern" method of caulking log cabins, folded without any rough caulking: cuts are made along the seams, bundles of self-expanding polyethylene foam are inserted into them and sealed with a wood-like sealant, pos. 3. In essence, this is no longer caulk; this method is suitable for structures made of lumber without shaped grooves, assembled on pins and impregnated with water repellents (water-repellent impregnations). In addition, it is suitable only for selected materials of chamber drying, completely shrunken and shrunken. And what will happen with the warpage from moisture during operation - wait and see: in practice, the "caulkless caulk" has not been used for more than 10-12 years.

Let's go back to caulk, which is still caulk, albeit synthetic. Finishing compounds darken when they dry, so they are selected to match the wood by test strokes on the container. But in the light, the finishing synthetic caulk burns out and the walls of the log house take on the form shown in pos. 4. Someone, since such "decoration" cannot be avoided, orders gluing or filling of caulking seams with a white twisted cord. How much this adds aesthetics and respect to the structure is a matter of taste for the owner. And there is no dispute about tastes. All the more so - about the tastes of people who believe that natural wood needs additional "refinement".

It is much more practical to use synthetic hemp to seal gaping cracks in logs, pos. 5 in Fig. On top of the sealant, the cracks are putty with any wood putty for outdoor use, and the whole structure is rejuvenated. The putty has to be refurbished every 2-3 years - it also burns out in the light - but this is not long, easy and inexpensive.

The final touch is sanding

Caulking is not yet completing the construction of a log house until it is ready for flooring, installation of an attic floor, roof, installation of windows, doors, partitions, for decoration and equipment - a log house is desirable, but inside it is necessary to grind it. Especially - chopped from a wild log, debarked by hand.

Sanding a log house with sandpaper is extremely long, tiring, and this damages the outer most resistant layers of the tree. The blockhouse is sanded with a hand-held universal sander with nylon brushes. Worse - grinder with them; the drive is too powerful. But the main thing here is still brushes for grinding wood, see the video review:

Video: review of nylon brushes for polishing a log house

Grinding a log house with a brush is generally a controversial issue: the brush removes the hemp roller, see fig.

Now the fashion for the construction of baths and residential buildings made of natural wood has revived. Log cabins have a respectable appearance, are warm and environmentally friendly, which is very much appreciated by modern people. But even such reliable and energy-saving buildings should be additionally insulated in order to feel truly comfortable in them in any weather.

Caulk - what kind of operation?

Since ancient times in Russia, most buildings were built of logs. Such buildings have always been called log cabins. In recent years, interest in them has increased significantly, due to the special operational properties of wooden houses and baths. The construction of log cabins today is offered by many companies. Experienced home craftsmen build cozy dwellings and hot steam rooms from logs with their own hands. In this article, we will not describe the technology for constructing eco-friendly buildings, but talk about how to make them warmer. It will be about the rules for caulking wooden structures. Believe me, it will not be possible to equip a really cozy sauna or a residential building without this operation.

First, let's figure out why you need to caulk a log house? Everything is simple here. During installation, between the logs from which this or that structure is being built, gaps and voids remain. It is clear that you cannot leave them. Indeed, through such small, at first glance, gaps, precious heat will leave the room. Instead of a comfortable building, we will get a bathhouse or a house blown by all the winds. Caulking allows this problem to be solved. It is understood as the procedure for carefully sealing all the gaps between the logs using special tools and materials. All of their varieties will be described below.

Tools for insulating log cabins - unusual, but easy to use

Caulking any log house can be done independently. To do this, you will need to study the technology of the operation and stock up on a special tool:

1. 1. A flat trowel made of solid wood or metal. We need to purchase a tool with a blade about 5.5 mm thick and 10 cm wide. This blade, called a flat caulk, is the main device for insulating log buildings.
2. 2. A tool, referred to by experts as a road builder, of a triangular shape with a blade of 8–15 mm thick and at least 17 cm wide, along which a special groove is made. This caulk is needed to form smooth rollers from the strands of the used sealing material.
3. 3. The so-called crooked caulk - a flat chisel. The thickness of its working part is 5 mm, the width is about 5.5 cm. The chisel makes it possible to seal the seams on the rounded parts and in the corners of the log structure.
4. 4. A wooden mallet (mallet). With its help, you can easily fill the seal without worrying that it will deform or collapse. It is allowed to work with ordinary hammers.

In addition, you need to buy two split caulkers - a narrow one and a wide one. The width of such devices, visually resembling a wedge, should be approximately 3.5 cm. Breaking tools are necessary to widen narrow gaps. After using them, the insulation material is much easier to place in gaps and voids.

The working parts of all these tools must be as smooth as possible, and the ends must not be sharp.

A rough surface will not allow you to perform the planned work with high quality, since the fibers of the insulation will cling to the caulking and pull out of the gaps. And too sharp blades will cut the material used for the thermal insulation of the log house.

We add that there is no need to be intimidated by unfamiliar names. Every self-taught master can use the caulking tool.

Caulking materials - assortment for every taste

Thermal insulation of log cabins is carried out with different heaters (by the way, they are usually called inter-crown insulation), both traditional and more modern. The most famous caulking material is moss. It can be white and red. Our ancestors used it in the construction of buildings from logs. Moss is an environmentally friendly natural material. He possesses:

• low thermal conductivity;
• antimicrobial and antiseptic properties;
• resistance to temperature extremes (this is especially important if we insulate the bath);
• durability.

It is almost impossible to buy moss in building stores. Therefore, if you plan to use it, you will have to take care of the collection and proper preparation of this material yourself. Here you need to know the following. It is advisable to collect moss in November. At this time, there are practically no insects and snails in it. We carefully sort the collected material, throw out rotten particles, remove debris and lumps of soil. After that, dry the moss. Don't overdo it. Overdried moss cannot be used, it becomes too brittle. It is almost impossible to put it in the gaps between the crowns and place it tightly there.

An alternative to moss is tow. It is made from flax fibers. Such material can be tape (roll) or bale. Experts recommend using the first type of tow. It is easier to push the insulation in the form of a tape into the seams. And the heat-shielding properties of rolled products are higher. Bale tow is cheaper. But it is characterized by tough and short fibers. It is very inconvenient to work with such material. Key advantages of tow - not electrifying, low thermal conductivity, affordable price, antibacterial properties. Disadvantages of the material - the insulated seam has an unaesthetic appearance, the laying process is complex and time-consuming. For these reasons, domestic craftsmen rarely use tow.

10-15 years ago, log cabins were often insulated with natural felt. It is environmentally friendly, easy to use, protects the building from street noise and odors, and has increased vapor permeability. But, unfortunately, this material has two serious drawbacks. First, the mole loves it very much. She literally gnaws at the insulation. Secondly, the felt is prone to rotting.

Jute is devoid of these drawbacks - a pliable, soft material in the form of ribbons and ropes of different thicknesses. It can be matched to any seam. Jute, according to experts, creates an optimal microclimate in a log house. And most importantly, it is enough to simply mount it in the gap between the logs.

If a log house is built by professionals from an ordinary log or from a cylinder, it has a semicircular groove and gaps of small thickness, it is allowed to insulate it with a sealant. This is the most modern and simplest way of thermal insulation of wooden buildings. The sealant cannot be used in the presence of large slots in thickness and in cases where the grooves of the structure are in the shape of a triangle. In such situations, there will be no sense from him.

We will protect a wooden building from cold weather and winds ourselves

Caulking a bath or a residential building from logs is carried out twice. For the first time, insulation is carried out directly during the construction of a log house. We need to lay the selected material after installing each of its crowns. If we use insulation in the form of a tape, the operation takes place with a minimum of time. We roll out the insulation along the crown, fix it with a construction stapler (staples). If it is necessary to lay an additional tape, we mount it on the previous one with a 5 cm overlap. We cover the installed material with the next crown and repeat the procedure.

If you use moss, you will have to tinker a little longer. We take a bunch of dried material (moisten if necessary), lay it across the log. The fibers should hang 5–6 cm from each side of the log. Then, close to the first, we lay the second bundle. We make a layer of moss quite impressive. The tree should not be visible through it. The thicker the layer, the better the insulation will be.

The second part of caulking is performed after the installation of all the crowns of the structure and the installation of the roof on it. Re-insulation is needed for any structure, be it a residential building or a bathhouse. The wall insulation scheme is as follows:

1. 1. Take a bunch of tow (moss, felt), apply it to the seam between the logs, press the fibers into the gap with a caulking blade. We start work from the end of the building from the bottom row.
2. 2. Gently twist the protruding ends of the material. We will have a roller that is 8-10 cm long. It should be applied to the gap and pushed back between the logs using caulking, leaving only a small tip.
3. 3. Weave the next bundle of material into the free end and continue to insulate the frame. The roller cannot be interrupted. Along the entire length of the gap, it must remain intact.

It will take a lot of time to complete such a laborious operation. But then we get a well-sealed building. And you can reduce labor costs by using not tow or moss, but tape materials. They are much faster and easier to mount. We just cut off the piece of tape required in length and start hammering it into the seams. After the walls are insulated, we proceed to the thermal insulation of the corners of the log house. This operation is also easier to carry out with tapes. They are pushed into the gaps with a curved caulk.

Caulking with a sealant is allowed after complete shrinkage of the structure. The procedure for performing such work is given below:

1. 1. We thoroughly clean the seams between the crowns from debris and dust, wipe them with a dry cloth.
2. 2. We treat all joints with a primer (water-based or rubber-based primer) using a spray gun or a regular brush.
3. 3. We are waiting for the soil to dry.
4. 4. We put a plait made of polyethylene (foamed) into the gaps. We select products that match the width of the seams.
5. 5. Apply sealant.

To give the log house an elegant look, we process the insulated joints with a tinting or colorless varnish.

High-quality caulking is one of the most important pledges of its reliable thermal insulation. It is highly discouraged to neglect this process, because the comfort and healthy microclimate of the steam room are at stake. But how to properly caulk a log house in order to avoid even the likelihood of the formation of voids, which can negate all the thermal properties of the structure? We will understand this in detail further: we will find out the features of materials for protecting the bathhouse - jute, tow and moss, we will get acquainted with the rules and technologies of caulking, and also watch a video of direct work with a log house.

Caulking materials

Moss, tow and jute are considered traditional materials for caulking a bath from a bar. Let's outline the main features of each of them.

• Moss... Environmentally friendly raw materials with high antiseptic qualities. Advantages: minimal thermal conductivity, high resistance to temperature extremes, low cost. Disadvantages: the need for long preparation for work. Purchased moss must be moistened and then dried before laying. If you collect material with your own hands, it must be carefully sorted out to remove debris and soil, and also dry.

Advice. It is not necessary to completely dry the moss, otherwise it will become brittle and completely unsuitable for caulking.

• Tow... Fabric based on soft yet durable linen fibers. Advantages: low thermal conductivity, minimal tendency to electrification, high absorbency, quick drying. Disadvantages: Difficulty laying and unaesthetic seams remaining after caulking.
• Jute... Jute wood insulation material. Advantages: high strength, minimal hygroscopicity, inertness to decay, resistance to moisture, ease of installation. Disadvantages: fast material caking and short service life.

Caulking materials

General rules for caulking

The main features of the cauldron of a bath from a bar:

• Caulking must be performed two times: the first - either directly in the process of laying the timber, or immediately after collecting the box of the building, the second - after the final shrinkage of the log house, that is, after a year or two.

Advice. If you carry out caulking after the completion of the construction of the bath, do it before the external finishing of the object, since the sealing material will raise the frame by 5-7 cm.

• Insulation must be laid on each row of the timber.
• Heat-insulating raw materials should protrude 5 cm beyond the boundaries of the grooves of the logs on both sides of the log house.
• Caulking must be done both from the outside and from the inside of the walls of the bath.
• It is necessary to process the blockhouse in a clear sequence: first, close the external voids around the perimeter of the lower trim, then follow the same steps on the inside of the building; then go outside again and process the second crown of the log house - repeat the procedure from the inside. Using the same scheme, step by step, protect the entire inner and outer surfaces of the walls.

Caulking process

Caulking technologies

There are two ways to caulk a log house - "stretching" and "in a set".

Stretch-in technology is appropriate if the voids between the timber are very narrow - almost imperceptible. The material is laid as follows:

• form strands from insulation;
• lay the resulting strands across the fibers into the voids of the log house, pushing them with a wooden spatula;
• fold the edges of the material (about 5 cm) and use caulk to hammer them into the slots.

If the voids between the rows of the timber are deep and wide, it is advisable to use the "in-set" caulking technology:

• form long strands of at least 15 mm in thickness from the heat-insulating material and wind them into a continuous ball;
• gradually unwinding the ball, fill the voids of the log house with the material, sealing it with caulking;
• to get aesthetic seams, carefully go over the material with the road builder.

Advice. For those where the slots are of different sizes, gain the thickness of the filler by turning the strands or simply twisting them into loops. In this case, first cover the top of the voids, and then the bottom.

As you can see, caulking a bath is a painstaking process, the success of which depends on several factors at once: the quality of the material, the technology of its laying and the sequence of work. To cope with the task and provide the steam room with good thermal insulation, carefully think over each of the indicated nuances and stock up on exposure, because caulking does not tolerate haste.

How to caulk a house from a bar: video

How to caulk a bath: photo