Penoplex for interior and exterior: insulation features. Styrofoam stone - garden and wall decoration Is it possible to glue Dagestan stone on penoplex

Even 30 years ago, hardly anyone could have assumed that a seemingly weak polystyrene would be actively used for the exterior decoration of buildings, but today the decoration of facades with foam plastic under a stone is not something surprising. Of course, if you know the properties of this material. And here are ten advantages of polystyrene that make this material so popular in the facade decoration of private houses:

  1. resistance of foam to weathering. He is not afraid of rain, snow, cold or heat, because
    foam plastic is an all-weather material and, unlike other non-polymer materials, does not require corrosion protection;
  2. water repellency. Expanded polystyrene not only does not absorb water, but also repels it, therefore, even in a strong
    rain your house will be safe (if, of course, other materials are selected for this);
  3. UV resistance. Even the direct effect of solar radiation does not care about the foam - unlike, by the way, from
    many other polymers;
  4. reliability. Expanded polystyrene can withstand various types of mechanical stress - it can only be damaged
    cut so your styrofoam finish will last longer than, for example, plaster, tiles or
    some other natural or artificial materials;
  5. durability and wear resistance. Polyfoam does not age over time and can serve for decades without losing its
    performance;
  6. simple installation. Foam panels are easy to glue due to the light weight of the material and its pliability. Also
    installation work is also facilitated by the fact that it is not difficult to adjust the position of the panels in relation to each other, but
    extra pieces are easy to cut off;
  7. price. One of the main reasons for the popularity of this type of finish is cheap materials and economical technology.
    production, which puts foam panels out of competition in comparison with other methods of facade decoration. A
    our prices are even more favorable, since we ourselves produce foam structures;
  8. environmental Safety. Confirmed by international standards - foam products are used even
    in the food industry (food packaging, disposable dishes, etc.);
  9. good thermal insulation. The problem of home insulation concerns not only residents of the northern regions, but also those who
    lives in a temperate climate, because our winters are also quite harsh. Styrofoam together with other materials
    will help insulate your home well;
  10. appearance. Correctly selected panels will allow you to simulate almost anything, because the foam can be subjected to additional processing with various compounds.

Of course, for the decorative finishing of the walls of a country house with foam panels, you need to choose high-quality material processed with special protective and decorative coatings. At the same time, for many years you will forget about finishing the facade and walls of your house or cottage and every time you will admire the appearance of your home.

October 29, 2016
Specialization: facade decoration, interior decoration, construction of summer cottages, garages. The experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. He also has experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing guitar and much more, for which there is not enough time :)

Penoplex is one of the most common insulation materials today. However, despite this, not everyone knows that its exterior decoration requires a special approach, different from the finishing of foam or mineral wool. Therefore, so that your efforts, time and money are not wasted, in this article I will tell you how to properly decorate the facade with Penoplex.

Penoplex features

In order to further understand the subtleties and nuances of finishing the penoplex, first let's get acquainted with the features of this material. First of all, I note that its correct name is extruded polystyrene foam. Penoplex is popularly called this insulation in honor of the company "Penoplex", which, as it is not difficult to guess, is engaged in its production.

Penoplex is based on ordinary polystyrene foam (polystyrene), which undergoes special processing under the influence of high temperatures. Thanks to this, he acquires the following qualities:

  • higher strength;
  • homogeneous smooth structure;
  • zero moisture absorption;
  • vapor permeability;
  • lower thermal conductivity than conventional foam.

Often, manufacturers add fire retardant additives to the penoplex, as a result of which the material acquires the G1 flammability class. True, only the most expensive brands of extruded polystyrene foam from well-known manufacturers have this quality.

On the one hand, thanks to these properties, extruded polystyrene foam is a more attractive insulation. But on the other hand, due to zero moisture absorption and smooth homogeneous structure, this material has very poor adhesion. Therefore, initially it was not intended at all for use in “wet facade” insulation systems.

A big mistake for beginners is that they try to finish the styrofoam in the same way as regular styrofoam. This leads to the fact that the reinforcing mesh lags behind it along with the plaster (glue), immediately after hardening.

The price of polystyrene foam is several times higher than the cost of ordinary foam. Therefore, it makes sense to use this material only where its qualities, such as strength, are really important. For example, it can be used to decorate basements.

Foam finishing technology

The process of finishing the penoplex can be conditionally divided into several stages.

Extruded polystyrene foam can also be used in the arrangement of hinged (ventilated facades). In this case, the work is carried out in the same way as in the case of using other thermal insulation materials, such as foam.

Instrument preparation

So, before finishing the penoplex, you need to prepare a certain set of materials:

  • an adhesive primer such as Ceresit CT19;
  • Ceresit CT83 glue or its analogue;
  • fiberglass mesh for outdoor use;
  • perforated corners;
  • universal facade primer;
  • decorative facade plaster;
  • facade paint.

In addition, you should prepare the following inventory:

  • needle roller or metal brush;
  • a set of spatulas;
  • plaster bevel;
  • building level;
  • construction mixer or drill with a special attachment;
  • paint roller and pallet;
  • paint brush;
  • assembly knife.

Now you can get to work.

Preparation for reinforcement

Preparation for reinforcement is the most critical stage of the work, since it depends on it, the adhesion of finishing materials to the foam, respectively, and the durability of the entire finish. Instructions for performing preparatory work looks like this:

  1. first of all the surface of the extruded polystyrene foam must be roughened. To do this, treat the insulation with a needle roller or metal brush. You can also use ordinary sandpaper stretched over a jointer for these purposes;

  1. then the surface should be additionally treated with an external adhesive primer. To do this, pour the liquid into the roller tray and dip the roller itself into it. During application, make sure that the primer is applied in a thin, even layer.
    After the first layer of soil has dried, the procedure is repeated again;
  2. then you need to stick perforated corners on the outer corners of the foam, using Ceresit CT83. In the process of installing them, use the building level so that they are located strictly vertically or horizontally.

That's all the nuances of preparation. Now you can start reinforcing the penoplex.

Reinforcement

Do-it-yourself reinforcement of penoplex is carried out as follows:

  1. first cut the fiberglass mesh into the desired lengths. Please be aware that the mesh should be turned up at the corners and with an overlap of about 100 mm;
  2. then prepare Ceresit CT83 glue according to the instructions on the package;
  3. then apply the glue to a mesh-sized area with a thickness of about 5-7 mm;
  4. then process the area covered with glue with a notched spatula, while the excess glue that will remain on the spatula, throw back into the container with glue;
  5. now attach the mesh to the glue, after leveling it, and iron it with an even wide spatula. As a result, the mesh should be completely immersed in the glue;
  6. according to this scheme, it is necessary to reinforce the entire surface of the insulation;
  7. after the surface has solidified, it is necessary to apply another layer of glue about 3 mm thick. For the second layer, you can make the glue thinner to make it easier to work with.

In the process of applying the second layer, try to get rid of all surface imperfections, as if you were putting on the walls.

This completes the reinforcement of the insulation.

Decorative finishing

Decorative finishing of the foam from the outside is carried out as follows:

  1. start by treating the surface with a universal façade primer. This work is carried out according to the scheme described above;
  2. then you need to stir decorative plaster in water according to the instructions from the manufacturer, which is on the package;
  3. then the surface is covered with decorative plaster using a bevel or a wide spatula. The solution should be applied as thin as possible.

In the photo - rubbing decorative plaster

  1. after 5-7 minutes, when the plaster begins to set on the walls, grouting is performed. To do this, place the bean flat, and, slightly pressing it against the plaster, make circular or reciprocating movements with your hand;
  2. after the decorative plaster is dry, you can start painting the facade. The easiest way to accomplish this work is with a facade paint roller.

Try to apply the paint in a thin, even layer, and, of course, avoid drips. To paint a surface with high quality, paint in two or even three coats.

It is necessary to apply decorative plaster within one wall in one go, i.e. without interruption. Otherwise, the transition will be conspicuous even after painting.

This completes the exterior decoration. I must say that you can use penoplex for interior wall decoration, for example, if you need to insulate a loggia or. In this case, instead of decorative plaster, you can cover the reinforced surface with putty and then any topcoat.

Output

Despite poor adhesion, penoplex is quite amenable to finishing, which allows it to be used as a facade insulation. The only thing is that this procedure requires strict adherence to technology. It is especially important to approach the preparation of the surface of the insulation for reinforcement.

October 29, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Good afternoon. I again come to you with artificial stones from Penoplex or Polyprostyrene. Made by M.K. Short Svetlana - Vidio M.K. "Magnets". - here she tells in detail how to work with him. It is similar to Styrofoam, but stronger and does not crumble and cuts very well.
1. I bought a sheet of Penoplex - size 1m. by 1.50cm. - very lightweight. Thickness - 2 cm, it can be different from 1.5 to 5 cm thick, but I don't need a thick one on the wall. ...

2. I measured the wall, just enough and a little left, I will make an Image.
3. I put the sheet on the table, and marked it with a felt-tip pen and put the numbering - so that later I would not get confused when I glue it on the wall.

4. I began to cut with a knife - I kept the knife straight, it is cut well. easily.

5. Disconnected and began to cut corners - imitating the structure of the stone - M.K. Short Svetlana, Vidio M.K. "Magnets". He tells and shows very well how to cut corners to make a stone. I cut it with a knife - it is easy to cut, there is almost no debris, it does not crumble.

6. Shaped the stones and laid them out by numbers on the table.

7. I primed the wall with a primer for the walls. when the primer has dried, it spread the finishing putty - like liquid sour cream and began to spread a pebble and glue it to the wall - it adheres well. I started with number 1 and in order.

8. I rubbed the seams with putty. Where the seams turned out to be narrow - the stones were not laid out - I cut them right on the wall, or turned out longer than necessary - I cut them too - they cut well.

9. Everything is dry. I painted it with brown acrylic paint with the addition of white. 9 in my kitchen, the opposite wall was made to resemble an artificial stone from a solution and I selected it to match the color.

The wall is against the window. I matched it to the color.

10. The brown paint dried and I tinted with a light one. After 5 minutes, she wiped it off with a damp sponge to even out the color a little.

When facing facades, mistakes are made very often. You can find a lot of examples after walking just one block in any city. Describing and listing all the mistakes will be ineffective for memorization. It is better to focus on a specific case and highlight the mistakes that the builders made when facing a particular building with artificial stone.

A high-quality artificial stone can be compared with natural in terms of durability. This is on condition that the production technology is strictly observed during manufacture. Basically, such products are made on the basis of fine concrete. This means that vibration tables, polymer additives that reduce the water-cement ratio are used in the production. Cement is supplied for production without intermediaries, as fresh as possible. The sand to be applied is clean, without clay admixtures. In addition, the temperature and humidity conditions of hardening must be observed. Even a cursory glance at the above shows that it is more difficult for artificial stone to outrun natural or ceramic tiles in quality.

Therefore, it is necessary to approach the cladding with such a stone even more scrupulously than other cladding materials.

I copied this phrase on the site of the manufacturer of artificial stone:

Firstly, many surfaces (in particular, concrete and brick) do not require any special preparation when laying this material, since they have similar physical characteristics.”. What did they mean by that? Can facade brick walls be clad with artificial stone?

Facing with artificial stone

First cladding error.

The basis is a brick wall plastered long before the start of work. Before that, the plaster itself fell off after the winter frosts.

And then they hung slabs of artificial stone. All this will hold out at most until next spring. For fun, it will be possible to check in April 2013.

Condition of the surface of the walls before cladding.

Second cladding error.

The stone is not simply attached to the facade, but this section of the wall also serves as a container for flowers. All of this is made of red brick without the slightest hint of waterproofing. Autumn rains will saturate the soil and bricks well, and winter frosts will transform everything into a pile of artificial stones.

P.S.

Over the course of several days, there have been some changes on the porch, which slightly change the forecast regarding the durability of a particular cladding.

The fact is that the builders used additional fastening of the slabs. This is generally a new phenomenon in facing works. Additional fastening of cladding panels with hammer-in dowels. I missed the moment when the dowels were driven. If this happened at the time of facing, on not hardened glue, then this fastener will increase the service life. If the tiles were drilled the next day and, most likely, with a hammer drill, this could break the loose adhesive. And then, the finale of this facing can come much earlier.

Additional fastening of cladding plates.

Another useful operation performed on this facade is painting!

A good facade paint closes all the pores and microcracks on the facade and prevents moisture from entering the cladding. This small detail increases the service life of the cladding several times.

If it were not for the flower bed, in the body of the porch, we can safely predict the service life of such a facing 5-6 years. So far, this forecast has improved, but not much.

…. Four months have passed.

The summer has passed. Heating during the day caused the cladding and wall to expand. Due to the different coefficients of linear expansion, cracks appeared between the tile and the structure. They are still small. But winter is ahead. Snow will fall on the top end, melt and freeze. The next check of the porch is due in the spring.

Cracks at the end of the tile and wall.

Another year passed. May 2013

In one area, the cladding cracked at the seams - this is the first sign that the stone has moved away from the wall, and in the other it has completely fallen off. Plastic dowels did not help, or maybe, on the contrary, they did harm if they were hammered the next day. The surface of the wall is dry, without glue. It could not be primed or the glue was applied only to the stone, in the heat. Or they used cheap glue that was not designed for outdoor use.

FEBRUARY 2014. Well, in February 2014, you can summarize the observations.

The cladding began to fall off en masse and the inner side of the slabs and the wall opened. On one side of the porch, the bloopers from the glue remained on the wall, and on the other, they moved away from the wall along with the stone. Fastening on bloopers is not a very good way of attaching an artificial stone. But in this case, it didn't matter. Even if everything was done correctly - both surfaces (stone and walls) were primed and the glue was applied with a comb, the stone cladding would still fall off, only it would have dropped off with a layer of plaster.

Buildings can be insulated using various methods. A large number of heaters are available on the market for these purposes. Mineral wool is most often used for siding or other finishing material. Penoplex is indisputably popular. If the choice falls on him, then it would be good to know how to glue the penoplex. If this step is not performed correctly, then funds may be wasted. The article will discuss the different options for adhesives and how they are used.

Purpose of penoplex

Penoplex can be used to insulate any part of the building. The manufacturer made sure that for each purpose there was a subspecies of penoplex. For example, for the basement floor there is insulation with the "Foundation" brand. It has sufficient compressive strength to withstand the pressure of the tamped earth. Also, with proper fastening, such a penoplex provides airtight insulation that will not allow moisture to seep into the basement. If an additional layer of waterproofing is laid under the penoplex insulation, then this will be ideal. There is a wall penoplex. It is one of the most popular. Insulation sheets are available with a thickness of up to 10 cm. Its compression resistance is slightly lower than that of a foundation insulation, but it is sufficient to support the weight of the finish.

For roof insulation there is also a subspecies of roofing foam. It requires the correct approach during the installation process, since poor vapor permeability of the material can lead to the accumulation of moisture in the attic. In the case when there is a need to insulate the floor in the garage, then Penoplex 45 is suitable. It has the highest density, therefore it is able to withstand high loads. Analyzing the above, we can highlight the strengths of the penoplex:

  • moisture resistance;
  • resistance to temperature extremes;
  • light weight;
  • ease of delivery;
  • minimum heat permeability;
  • high density.

Penoplex practically does not absorb moisture. This is a good indicator that prevents the insulation from losing its properties. It also suggests that it will withstand a large number of freeze-thaw cycles, which hints at a long service life.


it is easy to cope with the installation of penoplex sheets on your own, since their weight is minimal. Only 2% of the total weight is dry matter. The remaining 98% are filled with various gases. This air cushion explains the thermal permeability of the material, which is only 0.03 W / (m × K). One standard sheet of polystyrene foam without trimming will easily cover 0.72 m 2 of area. Penoplex is not subject to putrefactive processes, therefore, even being in the ground, it will perfectly cope with its tasks.

Penoplex also has its drawbacks. Poor vapor permeability means that the insulation practically does not breathe. This is good when it comes to providing insulation for refrigerators or heating appliances. But for buildings, this can backfire. That is why it is not recommended to use penoplex for internal insulation work. If there is no other way out, then it is important to take care of supply and exhaust ventilation, which will remove moist air in a timely manner. Another disadvantage of penoplex is its flammability. Even with flame retardant additives, the insulation melts perfectly, while emitting carbon monoxide.

How to glue

Before you understand the peculiarities of installing insulation, you need to know how to glue the penoplex on the walls, or, more precisely, what compositions are for these purposes. They can be roughly divided into three broad categories:

  • dry formulations;
  • polymer compositions;
  • mastics.

Each of these formulations requires a different approach to application and has a temperature limit for use.

Dry formulations

Dry compositions for penoplex are mixtures that require preparation. Most often, the whole process comes down to stirring the base with water. The main component of mineral compositions for gluing foam is cement or alabaster. Some masters agree that dry foam mixes are more suitable for interior work. But if the air temperature is not far below zero, then they can be used for external work on gluing foam. The advantage of such adhesives for insulation is a long shelf life. That is, you can buy them in advance if the price has a good indicator. The main thing is that the humidity in the room where the foam glue will be located is low.

Another plus is the gradual use of the composition. This means that you can take from the bag as much as is necessary to solve the problem of installing insulation. The rest of the volume can be stored further. Modern dry formulations have moderate setting times.


in some cases, it reaches 4 hours. Such a factor will be useful for beginners, who will be able to correct the shortcomings by straightening the insulation sheets. To prepare such a mixture, it is better to use a special mixer that will not leave lumps inside. Some consider the disadvantage of such an adhesive that more thorough surface preparation is required. It must be clean and primed so that the adhesive has good adhesion.

One of the representatives of mineral insulation adhesives is Ceresit CT83. This is an excellent development, which will definitely not be a problem. The limitation is the application temperature, it must be at least +5 degrees. You can correct the position of the sheets after gluing for another 1.5 hours. This composition allows you to glue penoplex not only to concrete, but also to brick surfaces. The pulling force from the concrete for the adhesive is 500 kPa, and from the insulation - 100 kPa. When used correctly, consumption does not exceed 5 kg per square meter.

Another quality mineral composition is Atlas Stopter K-20. It can withstand even greater pull-out forces of up to 600 kPa. It grabs a little longer - 4.4 hours, but in warm weather this will not pose any particular problems. Its consumption is 600 grams less compared to the previous version. The manufacturer has added special fibers to the composition, which increase the strength of the glue.

Polymers


Polymer formulations do not have such a long service life as dry mixes. They are supplied in special pressure cylinders. To apply them to penoplex, you need a gun. Their disadvantage for beginners can be that they set too quickly, which takes place within a few minutes. Corrections regarding the position of the insulation can only be made in the first 30 seconds. Of the options for purchase, one cannot fail to note the branded Penoplex glue. It contains polyurethane. Another option is Insta-Stic. It comes in the same bottles as Penoplex. Their capacity is 750 ml. This volume is enough for surface treatment with an area of ​​up to 15 m 2.

Full setting of this one-component glue occurs within 12 hours, but it gains sufficient hardness in the first 10 minutes. One of the drawbacks is the peel strength of 200 kPa from the base. Another one-component composition that users love is Tytan Styro-753. It is more suitable for foam insulation of metal surfaces. Able to provide a pull-off force of 600 kPa. One can is enough for gluing 10 sheets of foam when applied correctly.



Mastics

When one of the main tasks is to provide waterproofing, then the penoplex is glued with mastics. But you should be careful about the composition of the foam adhesives. They may contain a solvent that will simply corrode the material. One suitable mastic is Bitumast XPS. It is made on the basis of petroleum products. But solvents are not used to dilute it. This mastic is hot, therefore, before gluing the insulation on it, it is necessary to heat the composition to 90 degrees. It has a minimum flow rate of only half a liter per square meter. The pull-off force of such an adhesive is 500 kPa. Normal acrylic glue is suitable for use. It is made on a water basis, therefore it will not have a destructive effect on the penoplex.

The preparation of the surface for gluing the penoplex was discussed above. Installation of sheets takes place from the bottom up. A special starting bar serves as a support for the penoplex; it makes it possible to set all sheets in one plane. Dry adhesives are applied to the foam sheet in a continuous layer. The best way to do this is to use a notched trowel. In some cases, beacon glue application is allowed. In this case, the distance between the blots should be 20 cm. This approach may be required with a high uneven surface. Polymer compounds are applied to the insulation in strips. It is also necessary to glue the sheets together when installation is performed. The installation video can be viewed below.


bouw.ru

Features of insulation in the apartment

In many respects, concrete is superior to such common building materials as brick or wood, but it has its own characteristics that must be taken into account before thermal insulation of walls:

  • Although concrete has high strength, it allows moisture to pass through, and this is bad not only for it, but also for insulation, so the material used must be moisture resistant.
  • To prevent the formation of mold and mildew, before installing the insulation, concrete walls must be painted with an antiseptic.
  • It is not necessary to insulate individual parts of the facade, but the whole building at once.
  • The thinner the wall, the thicker the insulation should be.
  • After cutting an opening for laying communications, the holes are sealed with mounting foam to eliminate heat loss

Outside

For insulation of concrete walls outside, use Penoplex "Facade". The size of the foam sheets is 120x60 cm, and its thickness can be from 20 to 150 mm in 10 mm increments.
The insulation can be fastened with either a special glue or a dowel-fungus.

From within

It is easier and cheaper to insulate an apartment from the inside, but it must be borne in mind that the wall remains unprotected, and therefore at a low air temperature, it will be cooled even more, since it does not receive heat from the inside of the room.

The decision to conduct wall insulation only from the inside, is taken in the most extreme cases if this cannot be done outside the building.

Here, the order of work will be the same as when performing insulation from the outside of the house.

Various materials are used to insulate a room from the inside, ranging from wallpapering (heat-insulating) to Comfort foam.

What is penoplex

Penoplex is a heat-insulating material, which is one of the brands of extruded polystyrene foam. This material can be used for external or internal insulation of concrete walls, as well as for insulation of hollow walls.

This insulation surpasses many roll and plate materials in its characteristics, its the main advantages are as follows:

  • low thermal conductivity;
  • it practically does not absorb moisture, that is, it has low hydrophobicity, which cannot be said about mineral insulation;
  • vapor permeability, this indicator is important when performing insulation from the inside of the house, if it is low, then condensation will form between the wall and the material, from which the humidity in the room rises, and fungus and mold form on the walls;
  • good strength indicators are provided due to the uniform distribution of cells, this characteristic is especially important when carrying out outdoor work;
  • affordable cost.

To the disadvantages The specified material has a small temperature range for its use, therefore, it cannot be used to insulate industrial premises, baths or saunas.

Another disadvantage of penoplex is that rodents love it, so you need to take care of their destruction.

Step-by-step instruction

Preparation of the base

Before starting work, it is necessary to clean the concrete wall from dirt, fungus, greasy stains, if possible, then rinse it well with water.



After that, the state of the surface is assessed, all cracks, cracks are closed on it, and irregularities are eliminated.

Waterproofing

At the next stage, waterproofing works are carried out using a deep penetration primer or bitumen mastic.
It will be possible to start the installation of the penoplex only after they have completely dried.

Fastening the penoplex

The sheets are fixed to the wall with glue, while they are stacked tightly to each other and with an offset relative to the previous row. All seams must be properly sealed putty, tape or foam.

After the glue has set, the sheets must be additionally fixed with fasteners for penoplex ( dowel-fungi), they provide reliable fastening and tight fit of the insulation, a hole is drilled in the wall through the insulation, and a dowel is inserted into it - a fungus.

Stacking sheets starts from the bottom up, in order to lay them evenly, it is necessary to fix the mounting corner. To improve the adhesion of polystyrene foam to the concrete surface, it is recommended to clean it; this can be done with a metal brush or coarse sandpaper.

After the glue has hardened, it is necessary to protect the insulation from external negative influences, therefore, using the same solution on which the sheets were installed, it is usually ceresite, but it may be different, attach the fiberglass mesh.

Allow time for the mortar used to fix the mesh to dry and a protective layer of plaster can be applied. If the work is performed inside the building, then you can immediately fix the drywall, and only then plaster it.

To perform the specified work, you will need the following tools and materials:

  1. penoplex;
  2. glue;
  3. antiseptic;
  4. deep penetration primer;
  5. plaster;
  6. measuring instruments;
  7. spatulas;
  8. fasteners for penoplex (dowel-fungi);
  9. reinforcing mesh.

How to insulate

It is necessary to decide on the thickness of the insulation, in this case it is impossible to act according to the principle, the thicker the better. Thus, you will not only spend extra money, but also reduce the strength of the coating.

For wall insulation outside the best option is penoplex with a density of 25 kg / m3. You can also take a material with a density of 15 kg / m3, but it is usually used for non-capital premises, such as a balcony or a veranda, a kiosk, a stall, a warehouse, as well as for decorative elements.


Penoplex with a density of 35 kg / m3 can also be used, but keep in mind that its cost is much higher.

If we talk about the thickness of the insulation, then the most popular is styrofoam with a thickness of 5-10 cm, but it can be from 20 to 150 mm and in each case the decision is made individually.

How to glue

For attaching the penoplex, you can use cement, waterproofing mixtures, polyurethane glue, composite polymers, gypsum-based mixtures... If the surface is dry, then gypsum or cement based compounds can be used.

Waterproofing compounds are made on the basis of bitumen. Foam glue can be used. The adhesive should not contain gasoline, solvent or other components that can damage the penoplex.

Output

If these works are carried out outside the premises, then it is better to do everything in the warm season, and inside the installation of insulation can be done at any time.

dom-s-ymom.org

Mounting adhesives for penoplex according to the characteristics of the composition are divided into four groups.

  1. Polyurethane.
  2. Mineral, cement.
  3. Polymeric.
  4. Waterproofing.

It is not recommended to use adhesives from the fourth group for interior work. They contain various solvents and petroleum derivatives that are very harmful to humans.

Penoplex adhesive for outdoor use.

To insulate walls from the outside, cement-mineral compositions should be used. They are distinguished by a high adhesion rate (adhesion, adhesion) to concrete surfaces.

For styrofoam for interior use.

Installation of insulation on the ceiling and walls inside the building is carried out using glue from the group of polyurethane or polymer. This is due to their technical characteristics and safety for humans.

The most common adhesives for penoplex

Atlas Stopter K-20. Specifications:

  • for outdoor work, including for facade insulation;
  • sold in containers of 25 kg;
  • consumption 4 kg per 1 m2;
  • mixture preparation time - at least 4 hours.

Insta-stik. Specifications:

  • ready mix;
  • sells in a 750 ml bottle;
  • there is a special nozzle for application;
  • consumption - one bottle per 2 m2.

Atlas Plus. Specifications:

  • versatility;
  • good adhesion and elasticity;
  • suitable for damp surfaces;
  • sold in bags of 5, 10 and 25 kg;
  • consumption - 1.5 kg per 1 m2.

"Moment". Specifications:

  • from the group of polymer adhesives;
  • drying time - a day;
  • resistance to moisture and low temperature;
  • supplied in cans of 250, 500 and 1000 ml;
  • consumption - 250 ml per 5 m2.

"Titanium". Specifications:

  • suitable for outdoor and indoor use;
  • supplied in aerosol form;
  • prevents the appearance and spread of the fungus;
  • no pronounced odor, safe to work;
  • consumption - one cylinder per 10 m2.

Price rangeglue zones

How to glue penoplex - instructions

Before starting work, prepare the necessary tools and materials:

  • foam plates;
  • primer;
  • roller or brush;
  • degreaser;
  • spray;

Follow the step-by-step instructions for gluing insulation.

  1. Clean the working surface of paints and varnishes, primer, dirt. Degrease the surface using a spray gun.
  2. Apply an even layer of primer to walls / floor / ceiling and let dry completely.
  3. Prepare the glue if required by the instructions. Apply it to the surface as well as the insulation board.
  4. Apply the penoplex to the surface: from bottom to top if it is a wall, or from left to right if it is a floor or ceiling. Hold the hob until it stops loosely lagging behind the work surface.
  5. Proceed with gluing the next board.

Methods for applying glue, depending on the nature of the work:

  • Point. Dense drops at a distance of 30 cm from each other.
  • Stripes. Four L-shaped stripes in the corners and two long ones in the center.
  • Solid. Evenly over the entire area of ​​the slab, stepping back from the edges by 3-4 cm.

Pay attention to important tips:

  • when performing these works, you will need an assistant;
  • read the manufacturer's instructions and glue consumption;
  • if you are installing penoplex for the first time, use aerosol adhesive;
  • treat the surface with a primer to prevent the appearance of fungus;
  • apply glue evenly over the entire surface with a layer of no more than 2-3 mm;
  • level the slabs immediately after touching the work surface;
  • remember about security measures.

A common question is how to glue penoplex to concrete

kakkley.ru

Installation methods and materials used

The installation of expanded polystyrene plates can be carried out without the use of any additional fasteners, however, the concrete surface should be carefully prepared:

  • clear;
  • plaster;
  • treat with a primer.

Advice: if during the preparation the ledges interfere with you, cutting of reinforced concrete with diamond circles is used to dismantle them.

Materials (edit)

Before gluing penoplex to concrete, the following materials must be prepared:

  • cement mortar;
  • primers;
  • adhesives for expanded polystyrene;
  • drills for mixing the components of the glue;
  • the container in which the components will be mixed;
  • notched spatulas.

If the installation is planned to be carried out using additional fasteners, the set of materials will be even smaller:

  • insulation;
  • glue;
  • joint sealant;
  • dowels.
  1. The method of fastening insulation using liquid nails is widely popular. Its advantage lies in the fact that this substance does not need to be applied to the entire surface of the sheet - it will be enough to apply it pointwise.

Advice: keep in mind that its use is not possible with every type of insulation, moreover, it contains toxic substances.
To carry out work with this method, in addition to polystyrene foam and liquid nails, you will also need protective gloves.

  1. Another option that answers the question - what to glue the penoplex to concrete, the use of special foam... However, it is advisable to resort to this method only when working with floors, since the foam has rather low adhesive properties.
    There are several types of foam:
  • for fixing foam block structures;
  • for foam sheets;
  • for expanded polystyrene plates.

Below it will be described in detail how to glue penoplex to concrete and the characteristics of these materials.

Properties of various types of glue and options for its use

  1. Bituminous.
    Its key benefits include:
  • pronounced waterproofing properties;
  • resistance to low temperatures.

It does not require any special preliminary preparation, however, if the work is carried out at an air temperature below + 5 ˚С, it is recommended to warm up the glue to + 18-20 ˚С.

The instruction is as follows:

  1. Clean and prime the concrete surface to be installed.
  2. Apply a thin layer of the product to the styrofoam sheet using a continuous or notched trowel.
  3. To ensure reliable fixing of the plates, they should be pressed for 20 minutes so that the adhesion becomes more stable.

From the disadvantages of this material, toxicity and a tendency to ignite under the influence of high temperatures can be distinguished.

  1. Bituminous-latex emulsion mastic. It is widely used primarily because of its excellent properties, in particular, the ability to apply even on a damp substrate and the absence of the need to warm up before use.

It is a composite material made of fine bitumen, synthetic rubber and a number of special additives. Due to its resistance to low temperatures and humidity, the mastic can also act as a waterproofing coating.

  1. Silicone glue "Master". It is equally good when used to insulate both the inner and outer sides of walls. It is a viscous liquid based on a special type of rubber, which cures in air for about a day. A distinctive feature of this glue is the ability to use in a wide temperature range - from - 60 ˚С to + 300 С.
  2. Polyurethane foam CT 84 from Ceresit. An excellent material for the installation of expanded polystyrene, which does not have secondary expansion and therefore does not lead to divergence of the seams between the sheets.

The foam is applied to the concrete surface with an assembly gun, after which the insulation is pressed against this surface. The substance sets within ten minutes, even under conditions of high humidity and low temperatures (up to - 10 ˚С). It must be borne in mind that the foam is toxic and flammable.

Advice: using diamond drilling of holes in concrete, you can make the necessary communication channels before insulating the facade.

Features of the preparation and use of dry mixes

The use of cement-polymer mixtures is advisable when fixing insulation to brick, concrete or drywall bases. The main components of these mixtures are Portland cement, a plasticizer, and various additives that enhance their properties.

In recent years, dry mixes, both universal and specialized, produced by Ceresit, have been especially popular. The universal adhesive ST-85, which includes a large number of various polymers, providing high strength and plasticity of the mixture.

However, due to the use of expensive additives, the cost of the glue turns out to be quite significant, therefore, to install insulation on concrete, they most often resort to using dry glue ST-83, the price of which is approximately one and a half times less.

Advice: when preparing the adhesive mixture, it should be borne in mind that it hardens within 2 hours, so it is best to mix it in small portions.

The indisputable advantage of dry cement-polymer mixtures is the possibility of their use even if the base on which the expanded polystyrene is installed has an uneven surface. The glue should be applied to the insulation plate in intermittent stripes with a 2 cm indent from the edge.

In this case, after pressing the plate to the base, the air will escape absolutely unhindered, and air locks will not form.

Tip: if the surface has slight irregularities, the mixture can be applied with a notched trowel.

The mixture for installing polystyrene foam boards must be thoroughly mixed with your own hands before application, so that it is as homogeneous as possible, without lumps and water. It is best to mix using a drill with a specially designed attachment, which will make the process simpler and easier.

However, it is necessary to ensure that the nozzle is completely covered with the mixture and does not trap air, otherwise air bubbles will remain in the solution.


After kneading, it is recommended to set the mixture aside for 5 hours, then mix again and use immediately. Exposure for the specified time is necessary in order to achieve complete homogeneity of the mixture and eliminate water from it, which interferes with high-quality adhesion.

masterabetona.ru

Types and technical parameters of penoplex

Two types of polystyrene heat insulators are used as wall heaters:

  • external, used to insulate the outer part of buildings ("Penoplex Facade");
  • internal, insulating walls from inside the premises ("Penoplex Comfort").

The sizes of both types of penoplex are identical:

  • length - 1200 mm
  • width - 600 mm
  • thickness - from 20 to 150 mm

Differences in materials are only in some technical parameters. This is clearly shown in the following table:

Fastening insulation

Methods for fixing the penoplex depend on the type of surface on which the insulation is applied, as well as the conditions of its operation.

To properly fix the penoplex on the wall, two conditions must be met:

  • choose an adequate fastening material for this situation;
  • set the starting bar on the horizontal level for the first row of insulation.

The most common fasteners are:

  • dry cement mortar;
  • bituminous mastic;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • liquid Nails;
  • plastic dowel fasteners.

The following can be used as a starting bar:

  • wooden beam;
  • wall profile for drywall;
  • special perforated profile for foam with external and internal corners (the width is selected according to the width of the insulation).

Fastening the penoplex to the wall of the room inside should be based on a certain technology.

Installation stages

Installation of panels is carried out in several stages:

  1. The wall surface is leveled horizontally and vertically by applying plaster, putty and cutting the protruding places with a puncher;
  2. After the leveling layer has dried, the wall is primed;
  3. Glue is applied to each mounted board "Penoplex Comfort", then the product is installed on the wall according to the previously applied markings and fastened with dowel nails at the rate of 4 per one board. Corner panels, if necessary, are trimmed with a knife, saw or jigsaw;
  4. The next line of panels in relation to the previous one must be installed in a checkerboard pattern, avoiding the coincidence of the seams;
  5. After completion of the installation, all joints should be filled with mounting foam, glue the joints with tape and close the insulated wall with foil vapor barrier polyethylene;
  6. Finishing materials are not attached directly to the penoplex. To install plastic panels or MDF on them, wooden or metal guides are pre-mounted. Wallpaper can only be glued onto pre-installed drywall.

It is necessary to fasten the penoplex to the wall of the room from the outside in compliance with the same requirements as for internal installation: materials can be fixed only on a leveled surface. Taking into account the presence of external climatic influences on the wall to be insulated, affecting the adhesive adhesion, the alignment is also added:

  • removal of dust, dirt, salt deposits, particles of exfoliated facade plaster from the wall surface;
  • washing away oil and paint stains with solvents that prevent glue from absorbing into the wall;
  • destruction of mold and fungal deposits with construction antiseptics;
  • anti-corrosion protection of metal parts on the wall;
  • corrugation of perfectly smooth surfaces, which improves the adhesion of the adhesive.

In addition, before installing the penoplex, the lighting devices on the wall, an air conditioner, a satellite dish, a house address plate and other external attributes are arranged with guide profiles.

Technology and features of installation of insulation on the facade

Facade works, in comparison with internal ones, are more laborious and expensive. They are complicated by:

  • large volumes of the insulated surface;
  • the height of the building, which often requires the construction of special erection "scaffolding";
  • dependence of the production process on climatic conditions.

Penoplex installation outside the building is carried out in stages:

Stage 1

At the first stage, along the entire perimeter of the building, a basement profile with waterproofing is installed on the already prepared wall, which protects the facade from moisture penetration from the bottom of the insulation, as well as rodents that can destroy the insulation. In fact, it is the starting one. The width of the profile should correspond to the width of the foam.

The adhesion of sheets to the wall in order to avoid the formation of internal condensation should be made as tight as possible. In places where normal alignment is not possible, it is recommended to use special seals.

Before installing the insulation, the walls are primed to prevent ineffective adhesion of the glue to their surface. This is especially true for walls made of porous materials such as silicate bricks, concrete, foam concrete, expanded clay concrete, cinder blocks.

Glue for laying insulation is made from a dry mixture by mixing it with a mixer with a small amount of water in a special bucket. The solution is spread with a spatula over the surface of the sheet, affecting its center and perimeter. In this case, the total area of ​​the glue should affect approximately 40-45% of the foam.

  • Ceresit CT-85
  • Stropter K-20
  • Glims KF
  • Rusexp-PS
  • Zenit-36

After applying the necessary layer of glue to the inner side of the foam, the insulation is pressed against the wall and fastened with mushroom-shaped dowels. The spacing between the bindings usually does not exceed 30 cm.

The length of the dowel is selected based on the thickness of the slab. It is the smallest for a wooden base. When attaching insulation to a brick, the length should be increased from 4 cm for solid bricks to 6 cm for slotted ones.

Stage 2

At the second stage, the foam is directly attached to the wall. First, the bottom row is completely lined up, it is installed on the basement profile with all the corners of the building exposed and inserted into the corresponding bounding profiles. At the same time, each panel is leveled, the glue particles protruding in the seams and from above are removed with a spatula.

All other rows of insulation are mounted in the same way. It is only important to observe the divergence of the seams on adjoining rows, as is done with brickwork. Sheets adjacent to window openings, corners, protruding parts of the facade are trimmed.

Excessive gaps between the sheets are filled with cuts of insulation and fixed with glue. The use of other compounds for this, for example, polyurethane foam or sealant, is not allowed, since over time they collapse and break the tightness of the insulation.

Stage 3

At the third stage, the sheets of foam, glued on a certain area, are fixed to the wall with dowel-nails. According to technology, this is allowed only after the glue has completely dried, that is, approximately three days after laying.

Branded insulation dowels are made of strong polymers. The metal in this case would violate the thermal insulation properties of the insulation.

The expansion part of the plastic dowel is selected in size depending on the type of surface on which the insulation needs to be attached. It composes:

  • for a tree - 2.5 cm;
  • for concrete - 4.5 cm;
  • for solid brick - 6-8 cm;
  • for slotted bricks - 8-9 cm.

The number of fasteners per foam sheet depends on the degree of wall alignment. For an ideal surface, 6 dowels-nails are enough for one square meter: 4 - at the edges and two - in the center.

In cases where the insulation is attached around the perimeter of any technological holes, the dowel-nails must fix it at the joints between the plates, the seams must be reinforced and plastered.

Stage 4

The fourth stage is the finishing one. Insulation installed on all external walls from scattered foam boards is carefully finished by successive overlapping:

  • reinforcing mesh made of synthetic polymer;
  • glass fiber reinforced adhesive layer;
  • primers for plastering;
  • facade plaster.

Plaster is used only for facade type. It is better to use ready-made universal plaster, for example, Economix, Ceresit 174 or 175, as well as Stolit. In addition to their high plasticity, these mixtures are highly resistant to temperature extremes and moisture.

After application to the surface of the insulated wall, the plaster is leveled, dried and primed under the finishing decorative plaster. Its choice depends entirely on the taste of the customer.

The most impressive types of decorative façade plaster today are:

  • "Modena";
  • "Travertino";
  • "Manifik Liss".

In economy class, the following are popular: "Korolit" and "Bark beetle".

Decorative processing of the facade with plaster, followed by painting in any color, completes the process of insulation with penoplex and gives it an external effect.

Conclusion

When installing penoplex inside, and especially outside the premises, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the technology adopted in construction. For high-quality work, in addition, you should:

  1. use only certified materials;
  2. mount the insulation outside the building without violating the temperature regime acceptable for this brand of glue;
  3. it is imperative to supplement the adhesive fastening with mechanical fixation of the sheets with dowel-nails;
  4. exclude the presence of voids between the wall and the foam, leading to moisture ingress, freezing and peeling of the insulation;
  5. ensure drainage of rain and melt water from the foundation of the building in order to avoid getting it under the insulation;
  6. do not delay the finishing work, as the uncovered penoplex is gradually destroyed by the influence of direct sunlight.

Video instruction: how to fix penoplex to the wall inside the apartment

vashplastik.ru

Types of adhesives

What is the composition to glue the penoplex to the surface of the wall, ceiling? There are many options, but choosing a product must be careful. Such glue will hold not only the material itself, but also the entire insulation structure. If the quality of the adhesive is poor, it will not hold the insulation.

There are several types of adhesives, depending on the composition:

  • mineral;
  • polyurethane;
  • polymeric;
  • waterproofing.

The first type is used to work with a dry surface, because at high humidity, the mineral components immediately harden. It is best to read the adhesives of the adhesive manufacturer carefully before purchasing. This will allow you to select the appropriate composition. It should be free of caustic, aggressive components, because penoplex is a capricious material, its structure is easy to destroy.

Polyurethane based formulations

For the installation of penoplex, such means are often used. Most are sold in cylinders, so using them is convenient and easy even for a beginner. The products are ready to use, they do not need to be kneaded, the consumption is economical. The most popular lineup of the series is Insta-Stik. It is sold in 750 ml cylinders, the consumption for gluing is 12-15 sq. m, setting time - 20 minutes. Breakout force - up to 400 kPA. The disadvantage is non-frost resistance - you cannot glue the penoplex on the walls at temperatures below 0 degrees.

Another well-known glue is Titan Styro-753. Its consumption is about the same (about 14 sq. M.). The product has a high peel force (600 kPA), and the setting time is even shorter (15 minutes). Penosil Fix & Go Montage is frost-resistant, it is operated at -65 ... + 130 degrees. With the help of the described means, it is easy to connect the foam sheets to each other, stick on wood, attach to a brick wall, to concrete.

Penoplex Fastfix adhesive foam

This foam with adhesive properties is widely used for fastening thermal insulation made of extruded polystyrene foam to all kinds of substrates - ceramic tiles, concrete ceilings, floors and walls, to drywall, aerated concrete, bricks. Penoplex Fastfix glue-foam is produced in 750 ml cylinders, the product itself is light blue in color.

If necessary, the adhesive will adhere to most building materials. Among them are plaster, stone, wood, expanded clay blocks, metal, cork, cellulose. If the material had to be foil, this tool is incompatible with it. Foam is also not suitable for polyethylene, silicone, teflon. Here are the main characteristics of the material:

  • drying - 10-12 minutes;
  • complete hardening - 24 hours;
  • the possibility of cutting - within 30-40 minutes.

The tool is used both for outdoor work and for internal thermal insulation in a room, it is suitable for insulating loggias and balconies.

Mineral adhesives

Mineral-based adhesives are composed of cement, gypsum, alabaster. They harden very quickly and must be applied immediately. The glues are mixed in small portions. Outside the premises, only cement compositions are usually used, products with gypsum components are suitable for interior work. The setting time is long, up to 1.5-4 hours, so it is possible to correct flaws.

The disadvantage of the compositions is that the base must first be primed well, wait for complete drying, otherwise the connection will not be strong. Also, the disadvantage is the need for dilution, to obtain a high-quality homogeneous mixture, a construction mixer is needed.

The most popular brands of mineral adhesives:

  1. Ceresit CT 83 - used directly for gluing foam, suitable for any substrates, pull-off force - 500 KPA, high frost resistance class.
  2. "Atlas Stopter K-20" - has an increased pullout force (600 kPa), viable for 4 hours, consumption - 4.4 kg / sq. m, the composition contains special reinforcing fibers.

Funds of this type are sold in bags of 5-25 kg, cost about 300-500 rubles. for 25 kg. If the frost resistance class F50 is indicated on the bag, the product is suitable for interior work. F100 class means that the boards can be glued outdoors.

Polymer adhesives

Is it possible to fix penoplex with adhesives in small cans? Usually polymer adhesives are sold in such containers; they are ready for use on any surfaces. Gluing with this method is practiced if it is necessary to fix the penoplex to the metal. For beginners, it is better not to buy such compositions - they seize instantly, it will be impossible to correct defects.

A good tool for slabs is Moment glue. It is resistant to humidity, temperature extremes, and is produced in convenient packaging for 0.25-1 liters. The consumption is low, even a small pack is enough for 4-5 sq. m. Another tool - "Emfikol 225", its technical characteristics are similar. After application, the room should be well ventilated for 2-3 days, but it is ideal to work with it in the air.

Waterproofing compounds

This group of materials that will glue penoplex includes adhesives on bitumen, acrylic, rubber, they are produced in the form of mastics. Simple ones cannot be bought, they corrode the material, like waterproofing agents with petroleum products. The best thing that can be used to glue penoplex is Bitumast XPS. The mastic does not include solvents, sets in 2 days, has a high pull-off force - 500 kPA.

Acrylic adhesives will easily attach penoplex to wood, concrete, brick, connect penoplex with penoplex, glue penofol with penoplex. They are suitable for indoor and outdoor use and have a very low consumption. Bituminous mastics have the most pronounced waterproofing properties and are resistant to low temperatures.

Penoplex sticking instructions

When you have chosen what to attach the material to, you can start directly to work. It is important to properly prepare the surface of the base, you can do it yourself. It should be cleaned of debris, dirt, dried. If the manufacturer recommends, the surface must be primed first. Next, you should cut the necessary pieces of the main material. How to cut penoplex? For this purpose, a clerical knife or jigsaw is used.

Installation technology

After drawing up the installation plan, you can start gluing the product to the floor, walls or ceiling. Mineral wool is often used under penoplex.

There are several ways of gluing with glue:

  • point;
  • solid;
  • boundary.

The point method is more often used, while liquid glue is applied with a spatula 100-200 mm wide. After that, you should wait a certain time and press the material to the surface. After complete drying, the joints are sealed with polyurethane foam or the same glue. The second option is much more expensive.

Glue consumption

All useful information for the user, including material consumption, is always indicated on the packaging. The usual figure is 3.5-5.5 kg / one standard layer of material (for mineral mixtures). Glue in cylinders is more economical, it is consumed less (from 10 sq. M per one cylinder).

Penoplex putty

After the final drying of the glue, you can additionally fix the penoplex with dowels, so it is more reliable. Next, puttying is carried out with finishing materials. It is necessary to putty smoothly, in layers, smooth the putty evenly. After the first layer, a mesh of metal, plastic, reinforcing is attached. The thickness of the first layer is up to 1 cm, the second is slightly less. 2-3 layers are optional, the third layer is usually sprayed and up to 5 mm thick.

Outer foam protection

A special glue is used for external protection. Which one is used in this case? Suitable means with high adhesion to the surface, you can choose the brands "Ceresit", "Master", "Polimin". Some professionals prefer to use "Giprok" - insulation similar to drywall.

Bonding stone and tiles to penoplex

After the final stage of work, you need to think about finishing. Most often, it is recommended to glue ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware or artificial stone. This is done with tile adhesive with frost-resistant qualities, with its help you can easily and quickly decorate floors and walls. It is imperative to apply several layers of plaster, preferably "Ceresit ST 85" with a reinforcing mesh. Indoors, it is recommended to make a cement screed on the floor, and then create a decorative coating.

Questions and answers

There are a number of questions of concern to users regarding the use of penoplex.

How to glue penoplex with penoplex?

There is no difference between how to glue two sections of foam and this material with other surfaces. But experienced builders say that when bonding the plates to each other, it is better to use a continuous method of applying glue, and you can do without a primer. Dowel-nails in this case are not required, and any of the above glue will do.

Can the material be glued to polyurethane foam?

It is possible to glue the penoplex onto the foam, the adhesion will be strong. On the floor, this type of work is carried out on a self-leveling concrete screed. But it is very expensive to glue on polyurethane foam. It also tends to expand, you will have to constantly press it until the process is complete.

Can Penoplex be glued to liquid nails?

You can use liquid nails, it is not very convenient. It should take up to 7 minutes before the plate is put in place, otherwise the glue will not set. In addition, the price of the work will increase dramatically.

Does air temperature matter?

It depends on the type of adhesive. Some lose their properties at low temperatures. Others allow work in the cold. All data must be specified in the instructions.

Choosing an adhesive and what is best not to use

Before buying, you should consider the following points:

  • acceptable price;
  • suitability for use indoors or outdoors;
  • adhesion strength;
  • consumption;
  • harmlessness (for interior decoration).

Usually, any polyurethane, polymer adhesives are bought for interior work. It is forbidden to use waterproofing products indoors, they can be harmful to health. Cement-based mineral mixtures are often used outside the house. For outdoor use - balconies and plinths, acrylic mixtures are ideal.

Compositions with benzene, toluene, acetone, formalin, xylene cannot be used for penoplex. Kerosene and gasoline, coal tar and polyesters, formaldehyde will also spoil the material. Otherwise, you can easily glue the material with your own hands at no extra cost.

kraska.guru

Technical characteristics and advantages of penoplex

Penoplex is a kind of extruded polystyrene foam. The material is a wear-resistant plate, inert to mechanical damage, decay, destruction and high humidity. It also has a long service life, frost resistance and does not require the use of waterproofing protection.

The high performance characteristics of penoplex make it possible to use it for internal and external thermal insulation of the foundation, walls, ceilings and floors. In addition, the material is widely used for interior decoration of wet rooms, insulation of balconies, loggias and verandas.

Particular attention is paid to the technology of installation of insulation "Facade" outside. In this case, it is required to create a ventilation space for laying the waterproofing layer.

For internal installation, "Comfort" penoplex is used, which provides good thermal insulation of the room, has increased strength, flexibility and reliability.

Materials have the following characteristics:

  1. Thermal conductivity (W / mk): "Facade" and "Comfort" - 0.03.
  2. Flammability (MPa): "Facade" - 0.2; "Comfort" - 0.17.
  3. Moisture absorption (%): "Facade" - 0.6; "Comfort" - 0.41.
  4. Sound insulation (dB): "Facade" and "Comfort" - 42.
  5. Operating temperature (degrees): "Facade" and "Comfort" - from -99 to +74.

Plates for indoor and outdoor installation have standard dimensions: length - 1.2 m and width - 0.6 m.

Penoplex has a lot of advantages that make it stand out against the background of other well-known heaters (mineral wool, expanded polystyrene):

  • Universal use.
  • Wide operating temperature range.
  • Resistant to steam and moisture.
  • High thermal insulation.
  • Long service life.
  • Ease of processing and installation.
  • Chemical resistance and safety.

Effective thermal insulation with penoplex is possible only if the technology of its installation is observed. Sheets are installed on a flat surface. The first to be fixed is the starting strip, made of wooden beams or perforated metal. The width of the plank should correspond to the width of the insulation. Ready-made kits are on sale, consisting of a strip, external and internal corners for mounting at joints.

Installation of the starting strip is carried out in the following order:

  • A horizontal guide is marked along the perimeter of the building using a level or chokline.
  • First, the required level is set, then beacons are installed with a thread.
  • The strip is mounted on the dowels along the intended guide.

The starter bar will ensure correct fixing of the foam in compliance with the geometry of the installation.

The staggered arrangement of sheets from the starting bar up is the best way to install insulation. The adhesive is applied to the inner side of the insulation, and to fill the resulting voids, polyurethane foam is used, which does not include hazardous components.

After the installation of the penoplex is completed, a decorative surface finish is performed.

Penoplex fixation methods

The choice of a suitable method of installing insulation is determined by the quality and type of surface, as well as the level of load that is created by the material.

Fastening of the penoplex to the wall is performed:

  • Mastics.
  • Dry mixes.
  • We glue.
  • Dowels.
  • Liquid nails.
  • Self-tapping screws.
  • Polyurethane foam.

Regardless of the chosen method, the installation of the insulation is carried out from the bottom up.

Polymer and bituminous mastics

Mastics are widely used for thermal insulation of plinths, foundations, exterior walls and balcony screens. They provide easy and safe installation on walls in the presence of adverse external factors.

Mastics are special viscous mixtures in tubes, ready to use. The tubes are installed in a construction gun, after which the mastic is evenly applied to the prepared insulation. Next, installation is carried out and the material is pressed to the surface for a minute.

Modern mastics contain a small amount of petroleum products, so all installation work is carried out in compliance with safety rules and in well-ventilated areas.

Dry mixes

Laying foam with dry cement-based mixtures is the most affordable option. Most often it is used to fix insulation to a concrete wall. The dry mixture is diluted according to the instructions to obtain a viscous solution. To simplify mixing, a special attachment for an electric drill is used.

The ready-made solution is applied to the surface of the insulation with a notched trowel to evenly fill the existing grooves. Next, the installation of insulation is carried out in the same way as in the previous method.

Adhesives

Penoplex can be glued to each other using special adhesives, presented in the form of foam. The adhesive is used in the same way as the polyurethane foam. High adhesion of the material allows you to fix penoplex on smooth concrete and stone surfaces.

The composition is applied along the perimeter of the insulation with a construction gun for sealant or polyurethane foam. Then he is pressed against the treated surface for 40 seconds. It will take at least half an hour for the material to fully set.

Two hours later, the surface finishing works are carried out.

Dowel-shaped dowels

Fastener with a wide head, which is used for large areas of thermal insulation and for uneven surfaces, such as a brick wall.

For work, plastic or metal fixing mushrooms can be used that can withstand heavy finishing materials and are resistant to damage.

The disc dowels are attached as follows: a perforator makes holes up to 6 cm deep, which are filled with foam. Next, a dowel is inserted so that the cap does not rise above the surface of the insulation. Up to 5 dowels are used for one sheet of insulation. Adjacent sheets are connected to each other with a single dowel, which is inserted into the connecting seam.

Liquid Nails

You can glue the insulation on a leveled and primed base using liquid nails. The adhesive is applied with a gun in the center and along the perimeter of the foam board. Fixation is carried out by quickly pressing the material against the treated surface.

Liquid nails are a versatile, expensive compound that is suitable for wood and metal surfaces. Due to the high cost of the material, such insulation technology is advisable for small areas.

Self-tapping screws

The simplest and cheapest option for thermal insulation of surfaces is using self-tapping screws and a screwdriver. Suitable for fixing foam to a wooden wall on a pre-installed lathing.

Despite the simplicity and availability, this method of installing insulation has significant drawbacks. Unlike dowels, self-tapping screws have small caps, so their consumption is higher - up to 8 pieces per plate. Accordingly, this becomes the reason for the appearance of cold bridges and a decrease in the thermal insulation characteristics of the surface.

Mounting foam

The method of fixing the insulation using polyurethane foam is of an auxiliary nature if the main fastening is performed on dowels or self-tapping screws. In this case, the surface is glued with foam to increase the adhesion of the material to the surface. This method is used for cladding surfaces made of plastic and plaster.

The foam is applied with a gun in the center and perimeter of the foam sheet. Next, the insulation is applied to the surface and held for some time for quick setting.

How to make double insulation

Often, this technology is used to insulate a balcony, loggia and veranda in order to create the most comfortable conditions for staying indoors.

It provides for laying the thermal insulation material in a double layer on the surface that cannot be glazed - the load-bearing wall and the parapet. Side walls, floor and ceiling are covered with one layer of insulation.

First, penoplex is installed in one of the above ways, on top of which penofol is mounted on metal staples or an adhesive composition.

The high performance characteristics of polystyrene foam as a heater allow it to be widely used for internal and external thermal insulation of buildings. The availability of material processing and the choice of the most suitable installation method allows you to effectively insulate various types of surfaces with your own hands, without attracting expensive specialists.

sdelatbanyu.ru


Source: kirpichvsem.guru