How to putty walls - this question is asked by most people who plan to carry out repairs in any room. It is always more profitable to do at least part of the work with your own hands. A careful preparation walls for subsequent finishing work implies obtaining a perfectly smooth surface, without flaws and roughness. The article will tell you how to do it right.

It is not always necessary to putty the walls to absolute smoothness. For example, this should not be done if the wallpaper, after decorating the surface, hides small scratches from stripping. Putty allows you to remove cracks and pits on the wall, level it well and, if necessary, bring it to a perfectly smooth state.

Thereafter:

• It is much easier to glue wallpaper on even walls than on curved ones. In this case, the glue will be evenly absorbed, and the risk of wrinkling of the canvases will be minimal.
• Putty removes various tubercles from the plastered walls, visible when sunlight that the surface will be pimply.

Tip: The instructions for puttying the walls indicate: if the old putty, after removing the wallpaper pasted on it, crumbles, it must be completely removed and the surface puttied again.

Tools required for puttying

Before you start puttying the walls, you need to purchase minimum set tools for work:

• An electric drill with a nozzle - a mixer. Usually, putty is supplied in the form of a dry mixture, into which a liquid is poured in the right quantities - ordinary clean water. For ideal mixing of the putty mixture, a special mixer is used, which will allow you to get a homogeneous, sufficient density mass without lumps and pieces.

• Spatula set different widths . In the process of performing the work, you will need a large and small tool. V hard-to-reach places it is impossible to get a qualitatively puttied wall with a tool big size, here it is required to use spatulas of small width.
• Brushes and rollers for applying a primer to the surface of the walls. This step cannot be skipped. After priming, a thin film appears on the walls, which significantly increases the strength of the wall and ensures high-quality adhesion of the treated walls, regardless of the type of facing material.
• rule. It may be necessary due to the large unevenness of the walls, when applying putty in a very thick layer. For high-quality leveling of a thick layer of putty, it is convenient to use a metal long rule.
• Building level laser or alcohol. Wall surfaces are often far from perfect. Before you putty the walls yourself, test beacons are installed, with constant monitoring by a laser or spirit level.
• Sandpaper. To obtain a beautiful and very even surface, so that it is pleasant to look at, a very fine skin should be used in the final mashing, the ideal result would be a treatment with sandpaper number two hundred and forty. To grout the initial starting putty, the grout should be done with a large coarse sandpaper.
• . When using such a tool, sanding becomes more convenient. This special device, on the handle of which there are clips for fixing the skin, as seen in the photo.

• Containers for the preparation of putty.
• Brushes and rollers for priming walls.

Tip: Wall priming should always be done. It provides on the wall the presence of a very thin film, which significantly increases its strength and improves the adhesion of materials.

How to choose putty correctly

What putty is better to putty walls?

According to their composition, they are:

• Cement. They are more moisture resistant, but their big drawback is too high level shrinkage.
• Acrylic (see. Acrylic putty - types, features, application). They have excellent adhesion to the substrate.
• Polymer. They have good moisture resistance, they have no shrinkage. The use of polymer putty allows you to get high quality area after wall treatment. A high price is a significant drawback of the material.
• plaster(see Gypsum putty: its advantages and problems of use). Such coatings do not shrink, their cost is low, they lend themselves well to leveling, but they have low resistance to moisture, which limits their area of ​​​​use.

According to the purpose of putty are:

• Leveling or starting. Have:

1. excellent adhesion of materials;
2. increased strength;
3. fairly coarse grain.

For their manufacture, coarse material is used. It is quite convenient to use such putty to remove large differences on the surface of the walls, to hide existing holes, strobes. For the first time, you can easily apply a layer up to one and a half centimeters thick.

Application of repeated layers is carried out after complete drying of the previous ones. The maximum result can be achieved after the installation of a special paint grid, for uniform distribution putties.

The advantages of this technology - allows you to lay layers of putty perfectly evenly. In this case, the surface will be more even and sufficiently durable. How rougher material painting grid, the more even the surface of the walls after processing is obtained.

• lighthouses. Such materials do not differ much from leveling putty. The only difference is the use of beacons. A lighthouse is a rail made of:

1. gypsum;
2. metal;
3. tree.

The part is set strictly vertically, which is controlled by the level. Lighthouses to the walls are fixed on a gypsum mixture, which dries fairly quickly, and then puttying is performed directly. This is how the wall is aligned along horizontal lines. To level the applied putty layers, a rule is used.

Using such recommendations, after the completion of the starting work, you can get a flat surface, which is controlled by the level. Due to the high cost, this type of putty is used quite rarely, and visually they almost do not differ.

• Universal. Combine the positive properties of starting and decorative mixtures. Their cost is relatively high, but the properties are inferior to other coatings. It is better to use for leveling walls that do not have large defects.

• Finishing or decorative(see Do-it-yourself decorative plaster: how to do it right). After applying the lighthouse or starting composition, a finishing coating is performed, which gives the surfaces perfect smoothness, eliminates pores, the smallest cracks.

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Putty layer: 8 questions on wall puttying technology

Greetings, comrades! Today we have to get acquainted with some of the intricacies of wall putty. We will find out what the thickness of each coating layer should be, what is the maximum layer of putty on the wall when it is applied in several steps, and how to properly prepare the surface for applying each layer. Let's get started.

Question 1: What is the maximum thickness of one layer

Let's first separate the flies from the cutlets. The putty is intended for finishing surface and its preparation for painting or wallpapering. To level significant defects, there is another material - plaster.

They differ:

• Aggregate fraction size. For plaster it is larger (up to 1.2 mm, sometimes more), for putty it is smaller (0.2-0.3 mm);

• Dry shrinkage. Plaster has less shrinkage precisely due to the large mineral aggregate: its hard grains stick together when the binder dries and form durable coating, which is not subject to further deformation.

The degree of shrinkage is a determining factor in choosing the maximum thickness of the putty layer. If the layer is excessively thick, it will inevitably crack due to uneven shrinkage.

So what is the allowable thickness of the putty layer when applied in one pass? It is always indicated by the manufacturer on the product packaging. In general, a layer of 1-3 mm is acceptable.

Question 2: what is the difference between applying start and finish putty

The starting one differs from the finishing one by coarse grinding of the aggregate and, accordingly, by a slight shrinkage. It is designed to eliminate relatively serious defects in the base (cracks, seams, potholes, small blockages). The thickness of the putty layer can reach 5 millimeters.

Due to the coarse grinding, the price of starting putties is, on average, somewhat lower than that of finishing putties.

At the finish, the opposite is true: fine grinding, relatively big shrinkage and, accordingly, a thin layer (no more than 1-2 mm). Its purpose is to prepare the surface for painting. If, in order to level the blockage of the wall, it is applied to it in one pass finishing putty- a layer of 30 mm will inevitably give cracks during drying.

An intermediate position is occupied by universal putties. They are characterized by fine grinding, which gives a smooth surface, and low shrinkage, allowing application in a relatively thick layer.

Template break

Everything is simple, understandable and ... alas, not always accurate. In modern fillers, stabilizing additives often negate shrinkage even when minimum size filler grains. I will give a few examples.

Image	Name	Maximum thickness of one layer, mm
	Ceresit ST 29 from Henkel Group (Germany), starting (repair)	20
	Eurogypsum Saten, Turkey (finishing)	3
	Prospectors, finishing plaster (Russia)	5
	Fugen from the German company Knauf (universal)	3

Conclusions? You can find out which layer of putty can be applied to the wall only from the accompanying documentation for the product. Universal recommendations are not always accurate.

Question 3: how many layers can there be

How many layers of putty should be applied when leveling the walls?

In general, there are only two:

1. Leveling defects(starting putty);
2. Surface preparation for fine finish (finish).

but maximum amount layers is limited only by the adhesion of the first layer to the base: if it has poor adhesion to the surface of the main wall, sooner or later the finish may peel off and fall on your head.

In my memory, the Fugen universal putty was used to level the blockages of walls of 30 mm (plastered wooden partition in stalinka) with a total of ten layers applied. The decoration of the room has been in excellent condition for a decade after the renovation.

Question 4: how to prepare the base for the first coat

Preparation consists of three stages:

Image	Description
	Removal of old coatings: fragile plaster, whitewash and paint are removed from the wall surface.
	Dedusting: The wall is vacuumed or swept with a sweeping brush. Dust will noticeably weaken the adhesion between the starting layer of the finish and the base.
	Primer: the wall is treated with a penetrating acrylic primer that will adhere the remaining dust, make the base more durable and increase adhesion to the finish. On difficult surfaces (e.g. smooth concrete walls) use adhesive primers with the addition of quartz sand.

A few tips for cleaning the wall from old coatings:

• Nitro enamels, oil and alkyd paints removed with a spatula after softening with a wash or heating the surface area with a building hair dryer;
• Whitewash and weak plaster can be removed without dust with the same spatula, having previously moistened it with plenty of water twice with an interval of 10-15 minutes;
• Water-based paints removed by grinding.

Question 5: how to properly prepare putty from a dry mix

In general, cooking instructions are always on the package.

• When mixing gypsum putty, you need to add a dry mixture to water, and not vice versa. If you pour water into a container with a mixture, dry lumps form at the bottom, which are almost impossible to break when kneading;
• You can knead a small amount of putty for sealing joints in drywall with your own hands, using a spatula. But you need to prepare a large amount of the mixture for leveling the walls construction mixer: this is the only way you will achieve uniform mixing of the putty throughout the volume;

If you don't have a mixer, use a drill or puncher with a whisk.

• Before preparing a new batch of putty, thoroughly wash the dishes, tools, and mixer whisk. Otherwise, lumps falling under the spatula will not allow you to make the wall surface even.

Question 6: how to properly apply putty on the base

Apply it with a narrow spatula to a wide one and apply it to the wall with sliding movements. Periodically change the direction of movement to perpendicular: this way you can remove the strips from the spatula.

Question 7: is it necessary to putty GKL over the entire surface

Not required, but desirable. The fact is that the seams between the GKL additional sheets cut in place stand out in thickness and make the wall uneven. Puttying the entire sheet with a millimeter layer will completely hide the seams.

If it is difficult for you to obtain a layer with a constant thickness of 1 mm, apply two extremely thin layers in succession ("on a streak").

Question 8: is it possible to putty a second layer before the first is completely dry?

No. Wet putty is a material in which the processes of hydration and shrinkage have not been completed. If you put another layer on it, it will most likely crack.

Conclusion

I hope that I was able to answer at least some of the questions that the reader has accumulated. The video in this article will help you learn more about wall puttying. I look forward to your comments and additions to it. Good luck, comrades!

June 12, 2017

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

How to make putty yourself? An obligatory stage of repairing the premises is puttying the walls. In this case, it will absolutely not matter what type of finish coating is taken: wallpapering or painting the walls. How to cook putty correctly, the article will tell you.

Putty in appearance - a creamy mass of white or grayish color, which is the finishing layer applied to the wall before final finishing rooms, to give the surface a perfect smoothness. With its help, you can hide minor defects on a porous concrete surface or a crack, the finishing putty of the walls is carried out with a very thin layer of up to two millimeters. But if there are deep grooves, holes, seams on the surface from brickwork or irregularities due to pieces of plaster that have fallen off, the putty on the wall simply will not hold.

To prevent this phenomenon, you will need to first apply plaster - the surface for puttying must be very even, the main task of the coating is not to level the wall, but to make it smooth. The main advantage of putty is the ability to apply a minimally thin layer of coating. It is very difficult to apply it with other dry mixes with a thickness of less than one millimeter.

Tip: When purchasing material, you must make the right choice. There are two types of putty: ordinary - KR; special - VH, for use in wet rooms.

Types of material for putty

According to the degree of readiness, such coatings are:

• Dry. The most popular option used for leveling walls comes in bags or bags. Material advantages:

1. just preparing;
2. you can get a mixture of any viscosity;
3. convenient to store and transport;
4. low price;
5. long storage period, regardless of temperature.

The disadvantages of the material are:

1. the need to perform additional work to prepare the mixture;
2. the solution must be prepared strictly according to the manufacturer's recommendations;
3. limited time of use after preparation of the mixture.

• Ready to use. The basis for putty is dispersions or latexes. They are sold in buckets or tanks. Material advantages:

1. can be used for a long time by closing the lid tightly after work;
2. no additional time is required to prepare the solution and purchase the tool;
3. the material is environmentally friendly.

Putties in composition can be:

• Oil-glue based on drying oil. Their advantages:

1. low cost;
2. ease of use.

Flaws:

1. unsafe from the point of view of environmental friendliness;
2. short-lived;
3. low mechanical strength;
4. poor compatibility with many materials, with the exception of oil paints and drying oils.

• Dry based on gypsum (see Gypsum putty: its advantages and problems of use) or cement.
• Acrylic. These are the most waterproof and durable materials.
• Based on PVA, the most cheap option, which can replace acrylic materials. The lack of putty is afraid of water.

By appointment, the composition is:

• Leveling- for leveling surfaces. It has good adhesion to the base, which allows you to evenly fill all its defects, smooth out irregularities, while maintaining high strength.
• Finishing(see Finishing putty: how to apply with high quality) - to prepare surfaces for decorative finishing.
• Specialized- used for a specific task:

1. sealing joints between panels;
2. performing urgent repairs.

• universal, combining the properties of the two types listed above and used on almost any basis.

Tip: When choosing and purchasing putty, you should carefully study the recommendations that the instructions for its use offer.

How to cook putty yourself

How to prepare putty? There are a large number of recipes for the preparation of compounds.

Usually added to it:

• Gypsum, pre-sifted.
• Pure chalk.
• Laundry soap.
• Drying oil.
• Glue animal or carpentry.

Before making gypsum putty, you will need to purchase:

• Chalk - from 2 to 3 kilograms.
• Gypsum - one kilogram.
• A solution of wood glue from 2 to 5%.

In this case, the adhesive solution is used until the mixture reaches the desired consistency. In addition, you will need the tools shown in the photo:

• Solution container.
• Electric drill with stirring attachment. For small volumes, this can be done by hand with a conventional spatula.
• Bandage gauze, to protect the respiratory tract from fine gypsum dust.

The procedure for preparing gypsum putty:

• Gypsum and chalk mix well.
• The resulting powder is gradually poured into a container where the adhesive solution was placed.
• The mixture is again mixed until a uniform texture is formed.

Tip: Putty prepared in this way hardens quickly. To treat small defects, it should be done in small quantities in order to use it all at once.

Gypsum composition is suitable for finishing:

• Concrete surfaces.
• Sealing drywall joints (see Puttying drywall joints - how to do it).
• For other surfaces located in dry rooms.

When painting the surface with oil paints, a universal oil composition is used.

To prepare it you will need:

• Drying oil - one kilogram.
• Desiccant - 100 grams, serves to speed up drying.
• Chalk powder - 2 kilograms.

It is good to use such a composition for surfaces that are often exposed to the negative effects of moisture and temperature fluctuations, for example, for wooden windows. When painting the surface adhesive compositions or ceilings and walls after plastering, adhesive putty is used.

For its preparation are taken:

• Drying oil - 25 grams.
• Glue solution 10% - one kilogram.
• Sifted chalk - 2 kilograms.

The order of preparation of the composition:

• The glue heats up.
• The glue is mixed with drying oil until a homogeneous mass of the solution is obtained.
• Chalk is added to the desired consistency.
• You can add crushed laundry soap, which will allow the putty to spread easily over the surface.

How to properly prepare a solution using dry semi-finished products

To obtain a high-quality putty composition, strict adherence to the manufacturer's instructions, which is available on the packaging of the mixture, is necessary.

Before preparing the material, you must:

• Purchase a clean wide container of the desired volume. An ordinary plastic bucket or from facade paint is best suited, which must first be cleaned of the remnants of the contents.
• An electric mixer, to obtain a high-quality solution, it must be thoroughly mixed during preparation.

Rules for the manufacture of the solution:

• The mass of the mixture prepared at a time should be such that it is used up in about 40 minutes of work.
• The fourth part is poured into the container for mixing the composition. clean water room temperature.
• The required amount of dry mixture is gradually poured, according to the requirements of the instructions.
• With a mixer or a nozzle on a drill, the mixture is stirred until a homogeneous composition is obtained, avoiding the appearance of lumps.
• The solution settles for about 10 minutes.
• Mix thoroughly.
• The finished solution should correspond in consistency to thick sour cream. If the composition is too thick, it will cling worse to the treated surface, and when applied to it, it will crumble. Too liquid mass simply flows off the spatula, forming sagging on the wall.

Tip: Unspent ready solution on the polymer base should be filled with water, and it can be used next time, carefully draining the water without stirring the solution.

How to putty on a wall

When applied ready mix it is better to use two metal spatulas:

• Narrow, for sealing gaps, filling existing sinks and cracks, finishing joints between walls.
• Greater width for full-surface application of leveling and finishing coats.

Labor efficiency and coating quality will be higher when using a special mortar sprayer, but to work with it, you will need to purchase special compressor equipment, which is not very rational for small amounts of work.

Coating procedure:

• A starting putty mortar is being prepared, which has a coarser texture and has a large fraction of its constituent parts.
• All damaged areas of the walls, cracks, cracks are puttied, the joints between the panels are sealed.
• A leveling layer of the mixture is applied and carefully smoothed with a wide spatula. During operation, the geometric parameters of the walls are controlled using a long rule, a plumb line and a conventional building level.
• After processing the entire surface of the walls, the room is left for 23 hours until the coating is completely dry.
• One layer of soil is applied (see Types of building primers and their scope).

• The room is left until the material dries for several hours.
• The finishing putty solution eliminates the existing irregularities after the starting layer.
• The entire surface of the walls is evenly covered with a thin layer of the finishing composition.
• After drying, the walls are treated with sandpaper, which is best fixed on a flat bar. This allows you to finally remove the roughness and small bumps on surfaces.

Tip: With further wall decoration ceramic tiles, finishing layer puttying and grinding surfaces should not be performed.

Preparation and application of putty are responsible operations. This is the process of preparing the base of the walls for applying layers of paint, wallpaper stickers.

Putty, prepared correctly and laid in a timely manner, will not give shrinkage and cracks on the surface of the walls. How to properly prepare the mortar, how to putty the walls with your own hands, the video in this article will show in detail.

The technology of wall puttying for painting or wallpaper gives recommendations on the sequence of work in order to end up with a high-quality result when finishing the room. Putty can perfectly level the surface of the walls, prepare them for finish coat. What does the puttying of the walls offer, the article will tell.

The main purpose of putty is to level the surface after plastering. The process of puttying walls for painting is quite easy to do with your own hands, before that having studied the recommendations and the technology of work.

There are a lot of options for preparing putty, its choice depends on the type of walls, the characteristics of the room, and the presence of high humidity in it.

Tip: When choosing any putty option, you should take into account the individual characteristics of the room during its operation.

In addition to finishing the room, there is material for external works. Its difference is in additional resistance to temperature changes, moisture and solar radiation.

Advantages of using putty:

• You can easily and quickly complete the finishing process.
• Affordable price of materials.
• The possibility of obtaining a flat and absolutely smooth surface.
• Variety of compositions according to their purpose.

What tools are needed when puttying the surface of the walls

Drywall puttying technology (see Drywall Puttying: Practical Tips and Useful Information) or other materials indicates right choice tool that is used in the process.

In this case, you will need:

• An electric drill, with a special mixer nozzle, which will be needed to mix the solution to the desired consistency. A special nozzle allows you to get a high-quality mixture, without lumps and additional inclusions.
• A set of spatulas. Several spatulas are needed to perform certain functions. For example, with a small spatula, work is carried out in hard-to-reach places, it also applies material to a large spatula, the width of which is 35-50 centimeters.
• A set of brushes and rollers for applying a primer. This is a mandatory process performed before and after puttying. The primer solution allows you to give the surface an antiseptic effect, which prevents the appearance of fungus and mold on the walls. In addition, the coating increases the adhesion between the base of the wall and the putty.
• To align the walls, you will need a rule to identify and eliminate all existing irregularities.
• To control the unevenness of the walls, if any, a spirit or laser level is used.
• Sandpaper will be required when sanding the surface to give it perfect smoothness (see How to sand the walls after puttying). After applying the starting putty, it is recommended to use skins of medium grain, and after finishing - very fine.
• To speed up the process of grinding the wall, you will need a manual skinner.
• To stir the putty, a container with a volume of approximately 10 liters is required.

Tip: This list of tools should be purchased before you start puttying the walls.

How to choose materials for puttying walls

Putty is a paste-like material that allows you to prepare the base of the wall for its finishing.

According to the degree of readiness, the material can be:

• Dry composition requiring additional dilution with water(see How to breed putty for self-repair). The advantages of this mixture:

1. affordable cost;
2. the ability to prepare the composition of any consistency;
3. ease of breeding;
4. simply transported;
5. long shelf life.

Material deficiency:

1. the presence of additional operations for the preparation of the solution before application, which increases the time of work;
2. the finished composition has a limited period of use, it must be diluted in small portions.

Puttying the walls is carried out as the final operation of their preparation for wallpapering and painting. Although modern plastering technologies and materials are capable of producing surfaces suitable for any type of finish, work of this level is very expensive. Therefore, the walls are still being puttied, especially since do-it-yourself puttying of walls is not among the complex and especially responsible works.

Puttying the walls on your own is advisable for the following reasons:

• Painting and gluing - lightweight types of finishes; in a dry, fungus-free and flooded room, putty allows you to level and smooth the walls without complex and expensive re-plastering.
• The putty can be redone many times, finished, eliminate flaws on it from inability without reducing the final quality of the coating.
• Putty materials are inexpensive, not difficult to work with, and their consumption is low.
• Plastering home-made curvilinear interior elements from drywall is impossible on its own, and extremely expensive to order; puttying them is no more difficult than puttying walls.
• The price of work on puttying the walls by a hired team is comparable to the cost plastering works, and may even exceed it.

The cost of puttying works is worth talking about especially.

putty price

For putty 1 sq. m walls, construction organizations appoint from 70 to 90 rubles / sq. m. m. It seems to be cheap and cheerful, but if it comes to a contract, various subtleties appear, such as irregularities of more than 3 mm, heating radiators, slopes, the same arches. As a result, if the plaster was not done by these masters, below 250 rubles per sq. m does not come out, and this is the price. Especially bad for do-it-yourselfers: “Did you plaster yourself? 400 per square without a guarantee (this is the price of ceiling plaster) plus slopes of 130 per running meter and 90 angles for him.

But, maybe, if the old plaster is still strong, just a little beaten and worn, order patching? Calling the master - from 1200 rubles, plus he will choose the materials himself, plus work by the piece for the hole. Generally, even if you still have never heard the words “rule” and “trowel”, it is better to putty yourself. Puttying is from the category of work in the process of which they learn, and the skills gained will be useful for more serious repairs.

Speaking of words

Putty or putty - how to speak correctly? On the packaging in the hardware store it says this and that. Maybe it's for different jobs? Wouldn't be wrong.

Putty and putty are one and the same, and putty is correct, although academic dictionaries do not prohibit putty. The etymology (origin) of this word is not simple, but instructive, so for the sake of it it is worth a little distraction before work.

The original Russian mass construction is wooden. Slots in wooden walls before finishing, they were covered with tarred tow - they were glued. By the way, they pushed the tow tightly into the grooves special tool- fawn. Hence - to fawn. In modern Russian, this word has a completely different meaning, but how it came to such a life is a separate story.

With the development of stone architecture, a German tool appeared in the everyday life of finishers - a spatula (spathel; "spatchel" in Russian transcription), which, in turn, is a direct descendant of the Latin spoon (spatha). To differentiate preparation for finishing stone walls from wooden ones, it turned out to be enough to add just one letter to the usual word, and putty appeared.

But then, it turns out, is putty still more correct? From a spatula! In the Romano-Germanic languages ​​- certainly yes, but not in Russian.

It's not about which language is good or which is bad. In classical Chinese, the language of the most primitive, isolating type, great literature has been created. German can be very musical, just read Heine in the original.

The Romano-Germanic languages ​​were formed under the strongest influence of Latin and follow the Roman principle "Rem verba sequuntur" - the word follows the thing. In them, calling the process according to the instrument is generally accepted, and the meaning in the context is obtained with the help of service words or their absence and the arrangement of words in the proper order.

The East Slavic languages ​​developed independently and came from a process, an action. How the word "axe" got its sound and spelling is the subject of much study, but it comes from the concept of "cutting with a powerful direct blow", and not from "compact, strong, hard, sharp." This rid our language of articles, service and modal verbs and made it almost indifferent to word order (“yellow shoes” and “yellow shoes” - try to say the same in English), but extremely sensitive to the impact on the root of the word. The difference between an ax, a knife, a saber and a chisel is hidden so deep that it’s better not to go there without a mind. Neglect of this circumstance, especially in combination with the long-term influence of the West (owners - overlords, a large flow of illiterate labor migrants, etc.) can make an outwardly full-fledged and even melodious language viscous and inexpressive.

Specifically, in the case, the word “putty” organically enters Russian only in two cases: either it means that the operation is performed on the spatula itself, and not on it, or as a figurative expression. By analogy: the walls are laid out, not bricked; nails are hammered, not hammered. You can nail, but not a nail or a box; it is possible to thresh, but by destroying or dividing, and not by creating or gathering together.

The addition of "sh" to "paklevka" did not touch the root of the word, and its semantic load remained consistent with the essence of the concept being expressed. The use of “putty” in professional speech is justified as figurative: it already means that the plasterer is speaking, and not a mere mortal. In the same way, it would not be a mistake for a sailor to call a bench a jar and a toilet a latrine.

A note on linguistics: the Russian language has experienced the strongest influence of the East, but the local languages ​​are of an incorporating type, the root in them is the holy of holies. Therefore, the Russian, having borrowed from the Tatars, which turned out to be useful, also survived the linguistic invasion without harm to himself and even with benefit.

Tool

The putty tool is similar to the plaster tool, but only externally, see fig. First, the blades of the spatulas should be thinner so that they flex slightly when the handle is pressed. This will allow simply due to the viscosity of the solution to obtain a thin layer of uniform thickness. It is easier to hold pressure than the gap between the bottom edge of the plaster falcon and the wall and its slope, so puttying does not require such fine skill.

Secondly, the blade of the spatula should be perfectly even (when buying it, they check it with a look along, like a cold steel blade) and smooth, preferably with rounded edges. The blades of expensive spatulas are cut out of the sheet with a laser, and those that are cheaper are carved with a stamp; their blade often comes out rough. You can direct it by walking a piece of fine sandpaper with a folded house. Price tags and labels are removed from the spatulas, washed off, and traces of Velcro are removed with 646 or 647 solvent.

Further, for grinding the walls after puttying with an improvised bar for an abrasive mesh, it is no longer enough: you need a mesh jointer (grater, holder) with clamps. Grinding with sandpaper, especially gypsum putties, is strongly discouraged: lumps of putty adhering to the sandpaper will scratch the coating.

Then, you will also need a plastic bucket, preferably a household one, with a bottom corner rounded inside. And most importantly, the puttying tool must be kept separately, completely clean, wiped with a clean, washed rag or microfiber before work, and washed clean and wiped dry after work. Not like cement from previous batches, but just dust and pile with hairs may not allow to bring the surface to perfection.

materials

What putty is better? Corresponding to the final goal of the work: the most expensive and high-quality acrylic costs about 300 rubles. per sack, which is enough for a typical living room, unless the devils on the walls were threshing peas. So you don’t have to worry about money for putty, but you need to figure out which one is which, which is suitable for what, and who does what.

Note: "starting" and "finishing" putties are just terms for brevity. Any putty is applied in two layers - leveling (starting); it may not be continuous, and integumentary - finishing.

Composition and purpose

Oil-adhesive putty

V modern construction and repair putty on drying oil are rarely used to level walls

The cheapest putties are oil-adhesive on drying oil. They are considered obsolete, but not because drying oil is harmful to health, this is not true. Drying oil is harmful to modern finishes walls, it is absorbed even into the strongest concrete and then comes through in spots through paint, except for oil, and wallpaper.

However, it is too early to discount the oil-adhesive putty: it improves waterproofing and protects the plaster with the surface layer of the base wall from being destroyed by fumes. Therefore, for basements, bathrooms, sheds and closets, kitchens, oil-adhesive putty is very suitable, especially since their walls are either lined or painted oil paint technically, not decorative.

Oil-adhesive putty is generally indispensable for wooden walls plastered along the chipping: it will protect the chipping crate and felt lining from rotting, and the nails from rust. Acrylic cannot do this, and wooden plastered walls will serve for a long time without losing their appearance, only under putty on drying oil.

Gypsum cement

Gypsum cement putties are a little more expensive and suitable for everyone finishing works general purpose. Produced in the form of dry mixes, kneaded on water. It is kneaded, and not closed, like plaster. Putties for residential premises are indicated by the indices LR and KR; for rooms with high humidity– VH. The purpose of gypsum-cement dry putty mixtures is, first of all, puttying walls for wallpaper. An overview of the most popular dry gypsum cement putties is given in the next paragraph.

Water dispersion

Water-dispersion putties are also gypsum-cement, but they are already mixed in a water-polymer emulsion and are sold in plastic buckets. They cost more than dry ones, but you don’t need to prepare them for work: dial and smear. It is only necessary not to forget the bucket open, otherwise the coating will come out fragile, although the mixture does not seem to set yet.

Water-dispersion putties have precisely maintained viscosity, due to industrial preparation, increased strength and smoothness. They are easy to apply, and when sanding, random jerks of the jointer do not eat out pits. Water-polymer putties can be confidently recommended to a beginner: with a more or less conscientious attitude to work, get good wall under painting it is possible for three approaches.

Acrylic

Acrylic putties have all the advantages of the above (oil putty stands alone) and only one drawback: cheap low-quality paint does not adhere well to them, they are very smooth. If it’s not a pity to put a little money “on top”, then puttying with acrylic for painting is best.

Range

The most popular putty is Vetonit, but it is only suitable for wallpaper: open dust and rubbed even with a finger.

But it is cheap, and the champion in terms of efficiency: consumption - 1.2 kg / sq. m. The manufacturer is trying to remedy the situation by releasing Vetonit LR Fine (which gave rise to the myth of “starting” and “finishing” putties), but it is somehow suitable for painting only in dry, heated rooms.

Having become interested in Vetonit, one must remember that this putty, due to the content of a large proportion of gypsum, is water-reversible: when wet, it sags into a paste. But it fills the cavities well, and it is easy to remove it later, therefore it is optimal as a temporary option on the eve of a major repair.

Warning: do not try to fix the imperfections of Vetonit with a thin layer of durable putty on top. Vetonite is the weakest of putties, and nothing but it will hold firmly on it.

Putties KNAUF Uniflot and Fugagypsum are adapted for sealing joints and holes on drywall. They are also suitable for walls, both for wallpaper and for painting, but more expensive than others, and the consumption is about 1.7 kg / sq. m.

Eunice - putties of increased whiteness, mainly for painting; under the wallpaper is the reinforced composition of Eunice Kron (“Heavy Eunice”). Suitable for dry heated living spaces. They are smoothed out in the absence of experience with some difficulties, so that the consumption is not small, but in 3-4 approaches an attentive and diligent beginner can get a perfect surface. Eunice, perhaps, is the only really finishing putty - it needs a base from Knauf, but not Vetonite.

Domestic, more cement than gypsum, "Prospectors" are superior to KNAUF in their field. This sphere is external walls, basements, damp rooms. They are not very suitable for decorative painting, but the heaviest cladding is kept on them like a glove. Perfectly combined with "Hercules", see next.

"Hercules" - "basement" putty, for completely damp and "killed" walls. Due to its high adhesion and thixotropy, it is indispensable for sealing cracks and potholes in concrete. On rough, but not “humpbacked” concrete walls for sheathing, cladding and technical painting with “Hercules” with “Prospector”, you can sometimes do without plaster.

Putty works

Drywall

Plasterboard plastering - part of the technological cycle drywall works, That's why .

General operations

Wall cleaning

If putty is made on old plaster, wallpaper and paint, of course, must be removed. To do this, use the appropriate washes according to the instructions. Then the room is dried (as a rule, this takes a day) and the walls are carefully examined; small residues are removed with a mounting knife or a thin flexible spatula (not putty!)

Terrain check

The relief of the walls is checked with a plaster rule and a flashlight: having applied the rule, they are illuminated casually against the wall. The slightest bumps and holes are visible at a glance. It is better to knock down bumps and sharp protrusions immediately with a planer or a sharp plastering spatula, and circle the holes with a pencil along the light contour.

Tool preparation

Immediately before work, the entire tool is thoroughly wiped from dust with a rag, washed with dishwashing detergent, and wiped dry with washed cotton rags or microfiber. It is good to wipe with household wipes such as Freken Bock, etc., but only new ones. Special attention you need to turn to the mixer for a drill and a bucket for kneading - lumps of the previous compositions, if found, need to be picked out.

kneading

How to breed putty? Very simple, but without shutting it gradually with water:

• In a bucket of 1/4, if construction, or 1/3, if household, clean water is poured.
• The mixture is poured (do not thump) with a jet until the top of the pile appears above the water.
• Wait, from 5 to 25 seconds, until the pile is saturated with water and sags; dry lumps should not be visible.
• Quickly, within 1-2 minutes, but thoroughly knead, it is highly desirable - with a drill with a mixer.
• Wait another 0.5-1 min.
• Knead again in the same way as the first time. Everything, the mixture is ready.

Warning: it is unacceptable to add either water or dry composition to putty mixtures. As it turned out, so we work. It's okay, putties are quite tolerant of the amount of water, and after drying, you can always rub it with an abrasive and grease it.

Note: before kneading, pay attention to the pot life of the mixture after kneading, and knead in batches to work out with a margin of 25-50% in time.

Flow set

Consumable portions of the mass are applied to a wide spatula with an average bed in order to be applied in one stroke.

Terrain leveling

Holes and cracks (bumps and “snot” are considered already knocked down) are overwritten either with a medium one, gaining consumption with a wide or wide spatula, depending on their size. The grout is carried out in sweeping movements across with uniform pressure until the mixture comes out flush with the wall without scuffing and sagging.

Slowly and pressing down, pull the spatula - typical mistake newbie. Any putty to some extent has thixotropic properties, and with a periodic equal impact with different sides will disperse quickly as it should.

Drying

When drying putty, it is necessary to apply full complex precautions for drying plaster: drafts, direct sun, directional heat flows from a fan heater, hair dryer or electric heater are unacceptable. Cracks during drying are not so bad, but improperly dried putty can warp, and this will only come to light when painting or gluing.

Ventilation of the room must be provided internally, without noticeable air currents and temperature changes. That is, wide open the doors of the room, but not the balcony. In the hallway - open the doors to the living rooms, and close the kitchen, bathroom and entrance tightly.

How long does putty dry? In the instructions, drying times of more than 16 hours are not found; most often - 10-12 hours. But it is better to do grinding not earlier than in a day: we are self-employed, there is nowhere to rush, let the coating gain better strength. Work will be easier and smoother.

Putty for wallpaper

Under gluing putty first with a wide spatula in strips with an overlap of 10-25%. "Sausages" do not grind. The spatula is held at an angle of 20-30 degrees; the main thing is to get used to holding the pressure, then the layer will come out with a constant thickness of 2-4 mm. A smaller angle of the spatula gives a thicker layer, and vice versa, but within the specified limits, otherwise the layer will turn out to be either bumpy or torn.

Next, the putty is dried, the sagging is removed with an abrasive jointer and checked for evenness with a rule with a flashlight. If necessary, remove the bumps with an abrasive, and grease the holes. With complete initial inability, it may take up to 5 approaches until the wall is brought into the plane (to zero, as the builders say).

After bringing to zero and thorough drying, the wall is passed with a mesh jointer with a mesh number 80-120 (P80 - P120). The larger the abrasive number, the finer its grain. They pass first in a circular motion, and then with less pressure in a run (sweeping across) to remove circular traces.

Again check the rule with a flashlight. There are no reflections far beating from under it? Done, dry for another day and. "Ate" somewhere too much? Our song is good, went the next approach.

Putty for painting

It differs from putty under wallpaper by an additional operation: after zeroing and grouting with an abrasive, a finishing layer of plaster is applied; under enamels, especially acrylic ones - special, durable and white, see above. They already rub it with a grid of numbers of at least 150. For mirror painting, they also additionally polish it with a finishing plastering trowel with suede; felt and felt are not suitable. If the plaster was previously rubbed with a falcon, the suede covering must be replaced with a new one. Before the walls are primed for paint according to the instructions for it.

Video: putty lesson

Putty corners

Beginners are usually advised to leave excess material on the corners, and then finish with an abrasive. But, if something is supposed to be siliconized from a gun before puttying, the work can be greatly simplified, while at the same time increasing its quality.

Corrosive and vindictive linguists: silicone is a new word of independent origin. Its root has not yet had time to spread and give rise to concepts different from the original meanings. Therefore, silicone in Russian is completely legitimate, as well as foaming mounting foam. A highly developed language is a delicate matter.

The suggested procedure is:

1. After the silicone is used up, we immediately disassemble the tube from under it, remove the remnants and wipe it clean with a rag, abundantly moistened with table vinegar.
2. When puttying, we leave the very corner free, as shown in the figure.
3. After the walls dry, we fill the tube with putty and squeeze its “sausage” into the groove; preferably - in one movement from the bottom up.
4. We pass with an angular spatula with support on the walls, as when plastering on lighthouses.
5. After drying, brush off the sags with an abrasive.

Note: if you don’t mind a little money, you can use a plastic confectionery syringe instead of a silicone tube. On gaskets made of microporous rubber or foam, with additional reinforcement with electrical tape, it becomes like a native in a pistol. The syringe also comes with a set of nozzles, so you can decorate the walls in the form of a cake or pastries, and then paint them.