How to seal a plastic bucket. How to quickly seal a leak in a plastic container? How to glue a plastic bucket

Plastic buckets, cans and tanks are necessary things at the summer cottage. Often in the conditions of a summer residence it is not possible to exchange an old bursting plastic container for a new product, but, if desired, it can always be repaired. How this can be done is described below.

If the bottom of a plastic bucket has burst, then it is useless to try to seal it. No glue will withstand the prolonged pressure of the liquid poured into the container, and over time, the crack on the plastic will certainly disperse.

It is much safer to repair a broken bucket by soldering the crack in it with another suitable piece of plastic.

For this you will need:
large and powerful soldering iron;
plastic tape, for example, you can cut from an unnecessary PET bottle, or a plastic clip;
some kind of detergent.

It is necessary to seal the crack both inside the bucket and outside, moreover, it is recommended to start from the inner side, since there the edges of the crack can be superimposed on each other quite tightly, resting them against the surface on which the bucket stands.

If you start work from the outer side of the crack, then its edges will spring, fall through, and it will be difficult to superimpose them tightly on top of each other.

However, for the sake of convenience, let us consider, nevertheless, how a crack is sealed on a plastic bucket from its outer side, bearing in mind that it is already closed inside the container.

So, in order to solder the plastic bucket:
1. Its surface around the crack is thoroughly washed and degreased.

2. Turn on the soldering iron, wait for it to warm up, and smoothly move it to the right and left along the crack, without pressing on the plastic, so as not to burn it. Thus, melting the plastic at the edges of the crack, the tip of the soldering iron runs along its entire length.

3. Consecutively lay the plastic tape on the crack, starting from a point slightly further than its beginning. In this case, the tape is heated with a soldering iron so that the melted plastic fills the cavity of the crack, that is, figuratively speaking, it is sealed.

4. After soldering the cracks, a seam is obtained, which is additionally smoothed with a hot soldering iron, moving its tip along this kind of "welded" line.

So easily and without any special tweaks, you can solder a crack on a plastic bucket or any other container made of plastic. Inside the bucket, the seam is made using the same technology.

It remains only to check whether it is leaking after repair.

Video of the process of sealing a crack on a plastic bucket:

Your favorite basin or bucket has broken, but there is no opportunity to buy a new one? Do not be discouraged, with the help of plastic and tools it is easy to repair any container in a matter of minutes.

Required materials and tools

We will need:

A piece of plastic from the usual "polorashka";
Soldering iron;
Broken container.

Before starting soldering, we clean the bucket or basin from contamination inside and outside, degrease on both sides. Take a large soldering iron and heat it up. We start the process from the inside, carefully running the soldering iron along the crack, from left to right (as if we were doing the strokes). We take out our "patch" from a plastic bottle and apply it to the crack. We melt plastic to the defect, it's easy and convenient!

As a result, we get a strong and almost invisible seam, which will help the container to serve for a long time. Even a plastic bag can be used as a material for sealing the gap.

other methods

The soldering iron is not always at hand, but this is not a reason to be upset. Plastic containers can be sealed in other ways:

Using a solvent - drop a drop of solvent (toulol, dichloethane, tetrahydrofuran) on both edges of the crack. Under the influence of the chemical, the plastic will soften, the edges of the crack must be pressed firmly against each other. After about a day, you can use a bucket or basin;
You can make an adhesive for the patch... Take a piece of plastic and fill it with acetone (be sure to cover it). In a few hours you will have a mass, to which you need to add the usual "Moment". Seal the crack with this glue as soon as possible;
You can also use a special plastic welding. A small amount of the composition is leveled over the surface of the crack and left to dry completely. If you follow the instructions, it is a very effective method.

Even a hair dryer and a piece of unnecessary plastic can help you solve your problem, so don't be afraid to experiment, perhaps. You will find other ways to fix your utensils in the field.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:44

like this - provided that all the pieces are selected.Contact a car service not to offer bumpers - it's very expensive and in general I want to try it myself

Ann 14-01-2010 11:49

I myself did not believe that a bursting plastic shelf from a refrigerator could be stupidly glued with a thermal gun, and it works great further. They just glued the seam, and that's it. Although, in an amicable way, it was necessary, of course, to take a mesh at least a window, and "plaster" it on a layer of glue, so that it was stronger.
Well, of course, you need to look at what kind of plastic, some are glued just disgustingly, and some can be soldered with a hairdryer.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:55

When he comes to me, I'll take a look. Something seems very similar to a shovel green (blue, red) plastic bucket

Charnota 14-01-2010 12:13

Are there many pieces?

Sometimes it drives epoxy onto a fabric base.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:17

I do not know yet

TAURUS 14-01-2010 12:22

dichlorethane glues well ...

How to turn a regular plastic bucket into a great shopping basket

if you first dissolve a part of this plastic in it ... but on condition that this plastic dissolves in this substance ...

Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:32

all these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm wondering - maybe they came up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Brass mesh?

alchemist 14-01-2010 12:40

When he comes to me, I'll take a look. Something seems very similar to a shovel green (blue, red) plastic bucket

buy a thermal gun and glue with heating through glass cloth or other fittings. Old buckets - polyethylene, everything will stick together for dead.

alchemist 14-01-2010 12:42

Originally posted by Sportsman:
all these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm wondering - maybe they came up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Brass mesh?

but how how ... you stupidly take this mosaic and picking up the nozzle - you glue it right along the seam, grabs it quickly, collecting, from the inside you stick the mesh, fiberglass at the seams.

alchemist 14-01-2010 12:43

Forget about dichloroethane, if, as you said, plastic is like a Soviet bucket, then polyethylene is there with a high degree of probability, or polypropylene, and EDC will not take it.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 13:13

Dichloroethane will most likely not work here ... What is a thermal gun? In my understanding, this is a Chinese shnyaga for 50 rubles, which spits with hot glue (hot glue in rods)

alchemist 14-01-2010 13:18

Yeah, exactly to them, will the casing be heavily heat-loaded? if yes, that is, dandyl is a heat-resistant compound

Sportsman 14-01-2010 14:49

How warm is the shroud on the outboard motor? 40-50 degrees, hardly more. We must try hot melt glue with a mesh.

makarkharp 14-01-2010 15:24

on moto sites somewhere I saw an exhaustive topic on gluing broken plastic, and it seems that I even duplicated it here ... look it can find it.

alchemist 14-01-2010 15:25

then there is a stock, take rods from 160 and take it.
There is an experience of repairing two NON-FUNNY holes on the plastic of the radiator with a dandil compound, heat-resistant, black. It fell like a monolith, it bore the shaking blows with honor.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 17:26

from 160 what is this? Temperature? Price?

alchemist 14-01-2010 17:43

temperature, at the price of a kilo of rods in Leroy chot about 110 rubles, extrostronk

Sportsman 15-01-2010 09:44

I don’t know what Leroy is, I’ll look at our radio shops which are

op-tu-mat 15-01-2010 22:31

Which one of them meant?

demon 15-01-2010 22:40

cyanoacrylate type Loctite 401

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DIY plastic bumper repair

Even the most experienced driver cannot be insured against damage to your car's bumper. If not you, so you. If it is solved through the insurance company, it is good. If the insurance does not roll, then there are two options: trust the professionals (it often happens here too) and pay not a small amount, or do bumper repair yourself.
It all starts with a damage assessment. Usually the bumper is not very expensive, especially if you buy a Chinese equivalent. If the bumper has suffered quite seriously, then there can be no question of any restoration of it - it will be more expensive. It is advisable to carry out repair work to restore a plastic bumper if there is a small crack or cracks, scratches, chips, dents, or if a replacement cannot be found at all.

Before repairing, it is advisable to remove the bumper for convenience. The entire restoration process, up to painting, can be conveniently performed at a separate stand.

Procedure

- Remove the damaged bumper;

- Wash it well;

- Remove the paintwork from the damaged area;

- To clean the outer and inner surfaces with a grip of 10-15 mm on the sides from damage. The layer of paint removed during cleaning must be at least 0.2 mm, since the top layer of the surface during operation often changes its properties, which can affect the quality of our repair joint;

- Drill out the ends of the cracks (this will prevent further growth). Here it is the same as when repairing cracks, chips on the windshield with your own hands;

- Make the actual repair - we will consider the methods below;

- Priming and painting - will be required in most cases.

To repair a bumper with your own hands, you need a minimum set of tools:

— Car hair dryer... This is a special device that does not differ in appearance and principle of operation from a conventional hair dryer. The only difference is that the hot air flow from such a hair dryer has a higher temperature and can soften or melt the plastic.

— Soldering iron... You can use any soldering iron, preferably more powerful. Rosin and tin are not required, not the case.

— Metal mesh. These are sold in specialized stores. The mesh will allow you to hold the pieces of plastic together. Can be used from an old air filter.

— Priming. A regular spray can of automotive primer is fine. If you have a compressor and a spray gun, it's even better. Choose for yourself - it doesn't matter.

— Putty... Ideal as you solder the cracks, you still need a putty. An exception is if this place is not visible.

— Sandpaper. For grouting putty 40 and 80 numbers, and for grouting the soil already 800.

— Any rag. It will be needed when washing the bumper, and when working with a hairdryer, because straightening hot plastic with bare hands is not always comfortable. It is good to use gloves as well.

— A piece of an old bumper. It will be needed in exceptional cases when there is not enough plastic.

It may be advisable to buy a repair kit that includes elements such as sandpaper, various paint retouching, fillers. Such kits are not so expensive and may turn out to be cheaper than taking everything separately, since the kits use a small package - why do you need a whole cylinder of primer for a small crack? Also putty, etc.

Bumper repair

To begin with, a quality inspection is performed in good lighting. Determine how many cracks, scratches, chips and dents there are on your bumper. We immediately calculate the amount of mesh, putty and other consumables. It is best to do this before purchasing consumables and missing tools.

Now let's take a closer look at the inner side of the bumper. There you need to find extruded (in some cases melted) information about the material of the product. Depending on the type of marking, the following conclusions can be drawn:
PP type designations (PPTV20 and analogues) - bumper made of propylene;
PUR mark - polyurethane bumper;
PAG 6 (GF, ABS) - designation of hard plastics.

But this is not a complete list of materials from which bumpers for cars are made. You can also find parts made of fiberglass and similar carbons, but they are very rarely marked and the most that can be found is the manufacturer's data. But if your bumper is made of solid (thermosetting) plastic or carbon, then repairing this type of plastic bumper is different from repairing products from other materials.

Cracks.

If there is a crack on the bumper, then we need a soldering iron and a mesh. Turn the bumper over with the wrong side facing us and cut the mesh. It is worth making oblong pieces 2-3 centimeters wide and a crack long in size. Bring the edges of the crack together and solder one end of the mesh. We need to drown it in plastic, but we are not very carried away, you can just make a hole. After that, the end of the mesh should be covered with melted plastic. Further, in this way, we solder the entire crack.

Let's evaluate the outside of the bumper. If everything is ideal there, then nothing needs to be done. Otherwise, we pass the mesh along the outside. Basically, you need to hide the ends of the mesh so that nothing sticks out. When you grind the filler with sandpaper, you will regret the protruding mesh hairs.

Small cracks, instead of mesh, can be reinforced with staples from a furniture stapler. Select the size of the staples so that their feet do not pierce through the body. If there are no suitable brackets, then you can take others and shorten to the required length. Use tweezers when soldering the fittings to prevent burns.

Place the staples perpendicular to the seam at a distance of 1-2 cm along the entire length of the fracture. Barely emerging cracks and branches are also alloyed. Otherwise, in the future, from vibration, they will develop into splits. In order to protect the staples from corrosion, completely cover them with heated plastic, pulling it from adjacent areas. After you melt the bumper along the inside, the face should return to its original shape.

If the cracks on the bumper are large or there are fasteners nearby (places where the bumper is attached to the body), since the nearby surface of the bumper often breaks, it is advisable to use screws to tighten the crack before soldering. A rather simple but very effective method is proposed.

We take a suspension - exactly it is called a "metal suspension for attaching guides", such are in any hardware store. We need it to tighten the crack with screws.

We cut it with a hacksaw or a "grinder" as shown in the photo, depending on the type of bumper crack. Typically parts 1 or 2 are used - the holes used are painted blue. Although it happens that when two cracks come together, piece No. 3 is used. Below is an example of the location of the plates on a bumper crack.

The figure - blue shows the working holes for the bolts. We drill holes in the bumper for screws, put a plate on the back side, insert a screw into the holes and fix the entire structure with nuts.

If you are repairing a bumper for the first time, then be sure to carry out this procedure from the inside (and not the first time it is better too).

Place a plate on the crack. Drill holes in the bumper through the holes in the plate with a drill with a diameter of 3.6 to 3.8 mm. Drill so that the drill is closer to the outside edge of the insert hole.
the drilled hole in the bumper must be countersunk in order for the screw head to "sink" into the bumper. If there is no countersink, you can use a drill instead, slightly larger in diameter than the screw head. When countersinking, do not overdo it, do not cross through! But too small a hole does not need to be done either. And one more thing - you can countersink manually, just by hand, with a large drill in the hole drilled for the screw, make a couple of turns - and the desired angle for the head is ready.

We check the quality of the soldering. We stagger in the place of the crack after drying.

How to fix a barrel, flask, bucket, watering can, canister

If everything is flimsy, then you will have to re-solder. However, this cannot be allowed, everything should be done for sure. After splicing the crack, the bumper surface should also be degreased and covered with fiberglass and then putty.

Dents

If the dent is not scratched, that is, the paintwork remains intact, you are very lucky. You can straighten it in minutes. This completes the restoration of the bumper. All you need to do is wet a regular rag, turn on the hair dryer, and warm up the dent on the back. Warm up usually no more than thirty seconds. Then we wrap a damp cloth around our fist and begin to bend the plastic back. We do everything neatly and without using great force. The main thing is not to transfer everything out. You can do several approaches at a break of ten minutes, allowing the plastic to cool down.

In the case when, in addition to the dent, there is also a crack, we perform the same actions, but with the expectation of further filling and painting the surface.

Chips and scratches

You can deal with them with sandpaper. We take the largest one (number 40) and start rubbing. It is necessary to sharpen the pits, turning everything into a more or less flat surface. The pit, in fact, increases in diameter, but loses in depth. Then we will fill this depth with putty. It is advisable to use body blocks, if available, but you can rub it with the palm of your hand.

Detailed instructions for removing chips and scratches on a car - for those who need it.

A good result is obtained using liquid plastic that matches your type of bumper plastic. Be sure to consult with your dealer after writing down the type of material for your bumper.
Apply masking tape (preferably self-adhesive fiberglass tape) to the face of the bumper. Stir the adhesive and the thickener on the cardboard. Apply the resulting mass to masking tape. This is to level the surface of the bumper. Then the masking tape is removed, and the surface is again cleaned and sanded. Liquid plastic is applied to this place. After the plastic has hardened, you need to sand the surface.

Putty

Let's prepare a putty by adding a hardener to it. After that, immediately apply to the place of dents (if the paintwork is damaged), cracks, scratches or chips. This is done naturally after the above-mentioned measures to eliminate breakdowns.

Wait ten minutes before starting work. We take sandpaper number 80. With the help of movements directed to the left and right edges of the bumper, begins to rub the putty. Sooner or later, you will come to the desired result. Of course, the geometry of the body should be observed if the breakdown appeared in some not very convenient place. Several additional coats of putty can be added to create a more even surface.

Priming

Take a rubber rag, wash the bumper and let it dry. We will check the result one last time. If everything suits you, then you can proceed to the primer. We take cans or turn on the compressor. It is necessary to apply the primer with movements directed, again, to the left and right edges of the bumper. Basically, you need to draw a horizontal line while spraying.

Let the soil dry completely. After that, you will need to take the eight hundredth sandpaper and wash it thoroughly. This is done with a bottle of water. No matter how local the breakdown was, the entire bumper is washed out completely. It should turn dull after drying. And the first layer of soil is completely washed off, leaving only gray dots in the risks and pores on the putty.
We will apply another layer of primer, which we will also wash. Check the flatness of the surface under the lamp. There should be no small pores or scars. The surface should be perfectly flat at this stage.

The bumper is now completely ready for painting. We advise you to paint everything as early as possible.

Repair of plastic bumpers made of thermosetting plastics and fiberglass

On the one hand, this method does not require great skills and abilities from you, but on the other hand, it is necessary to follow all instructions exactly. Only in this case can a good result be achieved.

Procedure for repairs:

we combine the cracked parts, fix them with any quick-drying glue;

we prepare the epoxy resin for further use;

take a brush and paint over the crack area within 5 cm wide from the inside of the bumper;

impregnate the fiberglass mat with epoxy resin and place it on the prepared area. In the absence of such material, the mesh used for sealing drywall joints may be suitable. In the latter case, you will have to apply another layer of epoxy.

Please note that in this procedure, the fiberglass must be repeatedly applied layer by layer so that the approximate thickness of the glued patch corresponds to the thickness of the bumper in this area. The front side of the product remains not glued. The putty used to hide traces of adhesions and other irregularities must be specially designed for plastic in any case. Next, paint the finished bumper and screw it into place. If you believe the statistics and test the technique in practice, then in the subsequent operation if cracks appear on it, then in some other place, but definitely not in the place of the seam we sealed.

In any case, do not forget that the bumper is, first of all, the face of the car and requires proper care and timely repair. And will it be an independent repair or repair of a bumper in a car service - you decide.

I myself did not try to glue the plastic buckets, but I saw how it is done. 5. The neck is glued to the tray with hot melt glue. We slightly cut the edges of the holes with a drill of a larger diameter, there should be no burrs! 4. Drill 5-7 drain holes with a diameter of 4-5 millimeters in the marked circle.

ATTENTION! Washcloths and sponges need to be changed quite often, especially if they have lost their integrity and began to crumble. Please note: Bathing a child in a large shared bath is possible only by pre-treating its surface with soda, baby soap or special detergents. Attachments with suction cups must be secured before the bath is filled with water.

How to glue a plastic container? (+) Yesterday

The penetration of water and detergents under them reduces the reliability of fixation.

It is a steel structure, adjustable in height, to which the bath is installed.

In the design of the bath, the factor of its stability is important.

In this position, the discharge of gases is facilitated and colic pains are more easily tolerated. The product meets all safety and hygiene requirements.

Microban does not release into water and does not lose its properties over time.

The material of the product contains the additive Microban, which disinfects the water when bathing.

If the bath is stationary, then the legs should have anti-slip pads. The accessory provides the baby with soft support and prevents slipping. The spongy bathing mold has a profile that matches the anatomical contours of the child. In its form, there are stops between the legs and under the armpits. The anatomical slide is attached to the bathroom with suction cups. A hanging hammock made of fine mesh is hung with hooks over the bottom of the tub.

It is a removable stand that fixes the position of the child and makes bathing safe and comfortable.

What to consider when choosing a bath for a newborn

The anatomical bath has a built-in slide-support inside, which follows the contours of the child's body, therefore, bathing, he feels more confident. Armed with the knowledge of the varieties and properties of baby baths and additional items for them, you will make the right choice when buying. For a faster fall asleep, it is recommended to do a general massage for the baby, the video tutorial can be viewed in this publication.

This allows you to fix the baby in a comfortable position.

Very comfortable for newborns.

The built-in drain increases the convenience. It allows you to quickly and easily change the water while bathing while bathing without disturbing the baby.

The bath should not be too small so that the baby can use it for at least six months.

It is strange that almost all the accessories are said here, but they forgot about the circles for swimming - this is about bathing in the bathroom. And when the baby grows up, you can bathe him in a spacious shared bath, and leave the nursery for future offspring. Swimming slide.

Therefore, everything is available.

On some models, the stops are adjustable to suit the child's height. It folds up compactly after use. Buying these items separately will be cheaper. But you can become the owner of things that you personally do not need.

Insert a plastic bag into the bucket.

The small size of the crack will prevent water from flowing through the bag. If the bucket is stationary, then this is the best method in terms of simplicity and implementation. This is how I repaired a plastic barrel. Instillation with molten polyethylene begins to occur upon deformation.

I myself did not try to glue the plastic buckets, but I saw how it is done. We take an ordinary plastic bag and use a soldering iron to seal the crack with this, smearing it. You can do this with a piece of plastic using a soldering iron again. At the dacha, they watered with such a bucket: the water did not flow.

Try to glue it with cold welding. If it holds water in the radiator of the car, then it will probably keep the plastic. But I tried to melt it somehow, nothing happens, some kind of plastic is now produced incorrectly))) Excuse me, previous authors.

So, how to fix a hole, a crack in a plastic bucket? I don’t know how about soldering plastic, small holes in a plastic bucket can still be somehow soldered, but large cracks are unlikely to be done well. There are other options for how to close up a crack in a plastic bucket, I don’t do such nonsense myself, so I read it on the forum. To do this, you need to take some extra piece of plastic, then put it in some kind of dish (but not in plastic), pour acetone, close the lid and wait a little until the piece of plastic softens. Then add glue Moment; and quickly fix everything.

And also, in specialty stores liquid plastic is sold in tubes, you can also close up a crack in a plastic bucket with it, or whatever you have ...

Some advise to apply epoxy glue to the degreased surface and glass fabric on top, and for reliability it is better to do it twice.

I would try in this situation to resort to using a conventional soldering iron! Carefully soldering the crack on both sides!) True, molten plastic would not have a very beneficial effect on the sting of this device!)

In hardware stores, so-called welding for plastic products is sold. The surface to be covered must be cleaned of dust, degreased with alcohol and dried thoroughly. After that, prepare the welding: mix a small amount of the mixture according to the instructions and apply to the crack with neat precise strokes. Smooth out the seam with a knife or trowel and allow time to shrink and dry. Do not deviate from the instructions, follow safety precautions and everything will turn out as it should.

I had such a trouble with the basin. A hole formed and I burned it with a soldering iron. The plastic melted and tightened the hole. He has been serving for 4 years already. She also repaired the bucket in the country. I just plugged the hole with chewed gum and smeared it on the bottom. All the so-called repairs were done from the outside of the vessel. Everything has served for more than one year.

cold welding for plastic. Clean the surface from dust and dirt and dry. Stir the mixture for no more than 5-6 minutes with your fingers. Better wear gloves. Use a spatula to seal the seam in the bucket.

I once repaired a big hole in a plastic bucket with an old soldering iron. I picked up a piece of plastic that was suitable in consistency and quality, and, heating it with a soldering iron, distributed it over the hole, starting with the cravings, gradually allowing it to solidify. The only problem is that in this way overheated the plastic becomes more brittle. But that was enough for a while.

I think that if this is just a crack that has not yet parted and turned into a hole, you can simply run a soldering iron along the crack from the inside and outside. This should be enough to ensure strength, restore tightness)

I have tried gluing plastic products by melting and dripping onto the damage. Thus, nothing could be glued. Then I just started soldering the holes in the plastic with a soldering iron. This method can help seal the hole.

take a mesh from, say, a car speaker, cut off the required size slightly wider than the crack and solder it on the inside of the bucket so that the mesh is not soldered deeply by about 1-2 mm. solder a small piece of other plastic over that place, as it were, fill this area and the mustache will hold the water, and you can sit upside down.

Often we need to glue a broken or cracked plastic piece - from the shackle of glasses to the bumper of a car. You may also want to glue the hook in the bathroom or the holder for the garden spray. The essence of the bonding process is to dissolve the surface layer of two blanks and form a layer of plastic from this solution, which is common to both parts. After hardening, the parts form a single whole, or, as they say, "stick together tightly."

Determine the type of plastic

in order to reliably glue the plastic, first of all, you need to find out what kind of plastic the item is made of. Knowing the plastic, you can choose the most suitable adhesive for it.

All manufacturers mark their plastic products with the symbol of recycling - this is the well-known Recycling Triangle - a triangle with arrows on the sides, symbolizing the reuse of materials.

The triangle contains numbers from one to seven. Often, the numbers are supplemented with an abbreviation. These designations determine the type of plastic.

What does marking on plastic mean?

PET low pressure polyethylene or polyethylene terephthalate. It is mainly used for packaging or packaging food. It is produced in the form of a film, bags or transparent containers for liquid and bulk goods, as well as drinks.
HDPE is a compacted low pressure polyethylene. Used for the release of shrink wrap and packaging bags.
V (PVC) polyvinyl chloride is a non-food plastic used for the manufacture of strong and durable items such as household buckets, metal-plastic window frames, linoleum.
LDPE High pressure low density polyethylene. It is used in the production of bottles for drinks and dairy products, packaging bags, toys, pipes for cold water.
PP polypropylene. Plastic is chemically inactive, heat-resistant (up to 150 ° C), most widely used in the production of medical products, heat-resistant dishes and household utensils, toys, pipes and fittings for hot water, and much more.
PS polystyrene. Also food grade plastic, it is used to make disposable tableware, household utensils, kitchen utensil cases. If it is foamed, it forms an excellent porous heat insulator - polystyrene used in everyday life and in construction work.
O Other - non-recyclable materials such as those containing metal, paper or other substances). This also includes plastics that do not belong to one of the six groups.

PS - polystyrene

In order to reliably glue the plastic, you need to carefully consider the markings on the product and select an adhesive designed for polymers of this group. There is another way to determine the type of plastic - a small piece of it must be set on fire. Each type burns with a characteristic smell and type of flame. To use this method reliably at home, you need to acquire considerable experience.

Adhesive marking

Tubes with glue are also marked, it is a pity that the designation system does not always coincide with the designations in the triangle on the plastic product. Most often, the following symbols can be seen on the tube:

PC - polycarbonate (used for covering greenhouses and sheds).
ABS is a copolymer of acrylonitrile.
PP polypropylene.
PPMA organic glass for general use.
PE is the familiar polyethylene.
PVC is another familiar one - vinyl, or polyvinyl chloride.
PS - polystyrene.
PA 66 is polyamide.
PUR polyurethane.

If you are not an expert in organic chemistry, then, most likely, further study of labeling at home will not be successful. It is better to read in the user manual, which must be attached to the tube, which plastics can be glued to them.

Types of adhesives

The variety of plastics used in everyday life corresponds to an equally wide variety of manufactured compositions and methods of their application.

How to glue plastic

To dissolve the surface layer of a material, it is necessary to break the chemical bonds between the molecules. For this, special substances are used, strong solvents. Each solvent is suitable for its own group of plastics, and it may not even leave a trace on material from another group. Each adhesive is based on such a solvent. In addition, the composition may include:

a hardener to help dry it;
filler - dissolved molecules of the substance for which the glue is intended.

One of the strongest solvents is dichloroethane. It is used to bond polystyrene and plexiglass.

Depending on the method of application, the funds are divided into several groups:

liquid;
contact;
reactionary;
hot melt adhesives.

Liquid

Liquids are widespread in everyday life, they are easily and simply used at home for gluing plastic with a porous structure. They are available in both organic solvent and water based. They are applied to surfaces that are pressed against each other for a time sufficient for the base to evaporate. After that, the adhesive layer hardens, forming a connecting seam. A typical example is PVA glue, which can be used to glue not only linoleum, but also wood at home.

Contact

Bonding takes place in two stages:

the surfaces to be glued are lubricated with a thin layer, which dissolves the surface layer of the plastic, softening it and facilitating contact with another surface;
after a few minutes, the parts are pressed against each other with force, the softened layers are mixed, the solvent evaporates and a seam is formed.

This is how Moment, BF-2 and others work. They can be used to glue polystyrene and other plastics at home. They contain toxic substances, so you need to work in a well-ventilated area and do not allow drops to get on the skin or mucous membranes.

Reactionary

One-component reactive agents dissolve the material to be bonded very quickly and harden just as quickly. These are such well-known brands as Secunda, Superglue and their analogues. The seam is strong and tough.

Two-component components consist, respectively, of two components, stored separately from each other:

hardener;
fixer.

The components are mixed immediately before use and applied to surfaces where the mixture hardens to form a compound. The base is epoxy or polyester resins. The seam at home is very durable. A characteristic feature is that complete hardening takes a long time, and the seam gradually increases both strength and fragility.

Hot melt adhesives

This group includes substances that show their properties when heated to 110-120 ° C. For use, a special glue gun with a heating element is required. Differs in the accuracy of application. In addition to plastic, they can glue wood, fabric, paper at home.

How to glue plastic tightly at home

After the type of plastic has been determined and the appropriate substance has been selected, you should:

thoroughly degrease the surfaces to be glued. To do this, use alcohol, degreaser or soap solution (only laundry soap);
to glue objects more reliably, you need to increase the wettability. To do this, treat the surfaces with a velvet file or a thin sandpaper;
mix two-component reactive substances only after the preparation of the parts;
do not use brushes with natural bristles;
Apply so much adhesive that when pressing the blanks, the excess is not squeezed out of the bonding zone.

The parts should be pressed so as to exclude their displacement in the plane of gluing relative to each other.

How to achieve maximum effect when gluing plastic parts

For gluing plastic at home to give the maximum effect, you should:

accurately determine the material and select the appropriate adhesive for it;
carefully follow the requirements of the instructions for use;
wait for the allotted time for the strength of the seam and do not try to use the product ahead of time;
for outdoor use or for items used in high humidity conditions, you need to choose a waterproof grade;
despite the declared heat resistance of the adhesive, the parts themselves may not survive this temperature;
if there is no marking on the product, then you can try to drop a drop of adhesive in an inconspicuous place and see if the material dissolves.

Epoxy adhesive provides one of the strongest bonds and is compatible with many types of plastics.

What affects the reliability of gluing

A number of conditions affect the reliability of the seam. All of them are important, and non-observance of any one can lead to the fact that the glued at home will fall off, despite the observance of all the others. So:

Compliance of product material and adhesive.
Correspondence of the type of adhesive to the magnitude of the forces that the connection will experience. The direction of action of these efforts is no less important. So, compounds that give rigid seams are not suitable for repairs, for example, shoes - after all, the sole during operation will bend and twist, despite the fact that the tensile force will be small. At the same time, with this composition, you can successfully glue, say, a hook to the glass, and hang tens of kilograms on it.
Compliance with application technology. Everything is important here - and how many seconds or minutes the surfaces need to be squeezed, and how to degrease them, and how much to keep the parts pressed against each other. All this depends on the properties of a particular pair of "plastic-glue", is described in detail in the instructions and must be followed verbatim. A second deviation in the holding time or premature use of the product may result in secondary damage.
The mechanical part of the process. It is important to thoroughly remove dust from the surface and roughen it. In addition, the direction of pressing the parts against each other should be perpendicular to the surfaces to be glued. It is impossible to allow mutual displacement of parts after pressing - this will also lead to failure.

Gluing plastic tightly is not so easy. Careful adherence to a home craftsman simple rules will allow you to get strong and durable connections. The main thing is not to forget about safety precautions: do not inhale the vapors of the adhesive and do not allow it to get into food, on the skin or mucous membranes. If accidentally swallowed, you should immediately consult a doctor, be sure to take a tube with you.