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How to fix siding on a wooden house - 7 installation steps for a home master

Exterior decoration is one of the important components in the construction of any house, including a wooden one. Now, according to statistics, about half of the owners prefer different types of siding, because installing such a cladding with your own hands is a realistic task for most home craftsmen, and then we will go through all 7 stages of finishing a house with siding, plus I will talk about the types of material and prices for it.

Choosing siding and purchasing components

The very concept of siding implies a type-setting cladding, which is mounted on a frame. But such a lining can be made from different materials and each of them has its pros and cons.

Briefly about the types of siding

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Vinyl cladding. PVC cladding is light, waterproof and durable enough, and most importantly, the price here is quite affordable. But plastic breaks easily, and cheap models also fade in the sun. The price of domestic material starts from 150 rubles. 1 m², for imported - from 250 rubles. 1 m².
	Acrylic planks. Roughly speaking, acrylic is a type of plastic. Compared to PVC, it practically does not fade and can withstand extremely low temperatures. But the price of acrylic is one and a half times higher.
	fiber cement.
	Steel. Polymer coated galvanized steel sheet is a great option. The coating is durable and reliable, if it is not scratched, then this finish will last at least 50 years. The price here starts from 600 rubles. for 1 m².
	Aluminum. Manufacturers position aluminum cladding as one of the most durable. Light metal, which is not afraid of corrosion, will last longer than a wooden house, but its price starts from 1200 rubles. for 1 m².
	wood siding. In fact, this is a type of lining. Most often, the slats are decorated under a rounded log (block house) or timber. The material is beautiful, but expensive, with good impregnation and varnishing, the price can reach up to 2000 rubles. for 1 m².

For self-finishing a wooden house, plastic (PVC or acrylic) and steel siding are best suited. Fiber cement is heavy, while aluminum and wood are very expensive.

A few words about calculations

Calculating how many panels you need is quite simple. The area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe facade is calculated and 10% is added to it for trimming and marriage. Difficulties are often caused by calculating the required number of fittings, that is, guides, docking modules, and so on. Here it is best to draw up a detailed sketch and already count on it.

If the facade is of the correct form and without any special architectural excesses, then up to 10% of the material is spent on pruning. On complex facades, the minimum trimming tolerance is 15%.

Tool and material

Self-installation of siding determines the presence of a tool, the photo below shows the minimum set.

In addition to the above tool, you will definitely need a hydraulic level. It is a transparent hose with graduated flasks at the ends and works on the principle of communicating vessels.

• As for the materials, the panels themselves are only part of the total set. Installing siding is impossible without a whole arsenal of fittings. The diagram below shows all the necessary elements;

• Usually, a heater is mounted under such a cladding. It is undesirable to mount polyfoam and extruded polystyrene foam on the facade of a wooden house, since they are vapor-tight. Mineral wool slabs are best suited here;

• It will also be necessary to purchase a diffusion vapor-permeable membrane, with which we will protect the mineral wool from moisture.

Seven stages of facing the house with siding

Finishing begins with the assembly of the frame, then the insulation is mounted and the walls are sheathed with siding, and at the last stage the gables of the roof and other small elements are equipped.

Stage number 1. Choose a frame

Siding can be hung on wooden slats and on a metal profile. Wooden slats are easier to work with, plus this material is cheaper. But the metal profile is more reliable, and most importantly, the metal is not subject to deformation and can withstand any type of siding, regardless of its weight and dimensions.

If we talk about wooden slats, then the section is selected depending on the thickness of the insulation. After that, the horizontal crate for the insulation is stuffed with the first layer and the insulation is inserted.

In areas with cold winters, insulation can be sewn in 2 layers, as in the diagram above, in central Russia, 1 layer 50–70 mm thick is often enough. Further, a vapor barrier and a vertical crate for mounting siding are attached to the insulated wall.

I always recommend making a crate from metal profiles. The instruction there is not much more complicated than when working with wood, but metal is more reliable, and even if you have never encountered it, in an hour you will understand the assembly principle.

• At the initial stage, perforated suspensions are attached to the wall. In a wooden house, they are screwed with self-tapping screws. We will then attach metal profiles for siding to the suspensions, so we make markings in increments of 40 - 60 cm, strictly vertically;

• Now in the insulation plates we make slots for the “wings” of the suspensions and put the plates on the suspensions. And on top of the insulation we lay a vapor barrier membrane, after which you can proceed to fasten CD profiles on hangers;

• The profiles are screwed with special self-tapping screws (fleas), and the wings of the hangers are either bent or cut off. Under the windows and doors, a separate edging is made from a CD profile;

• Under the slopes for windows and doors, a separate frame of profiles is also equipped, which is connected to a single frame.

Stage number 2. J-profile fixing

Illustrations	Recommendations
	starting point. The starting points are located at the corners and are determined using the hydraulic level.
	markup. We screw the self-tapping screws into the starting points and stretch the marking cord between them; At the same time, we mark the boundaries of the installation of the corner profile.
	J-profile fixing. Now, along the entire perimeter of the house, the starting profile is attached to the frame slats with self-tapping screws. We make the gap between the profile sections about 12 mm, and between the starting and corner profiles 6 mm each. PVC is subject to temperature deformations and gaps must be left everywhere. Metal siding is also deformed, but much less, respectively, and the tolerances there are no more than 5 mm.
	Advice. In order not to make indents from the corner profiles, you can simply cut off the fastening strips in them.

Remember - when attaching any type of siding, screws or nails cannot be driven tightly. A gap of about 1 mm is left under the hat. Elements should hang on self-tapping screws. Plus, nails or self-tapping screws are driven into the center of the hole.

Stage number 3. Arrangement of external corners

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Fastening. The corner element, first of all, is coordinated with the roofing soffit. From it to the soffit should be 3 mm; The upper self-tapping screws are driven in first, then all the rest go with an interval of about half a meter; The lower edge of the corner piece drops 6 mm below the starting profile.
	Docking. If the height of the house is more than 3 m, then you will have to join the elements together. To do this, the fastening strips are cut off from the upper element by 25 mm, after which it is put on with an overlap on the lower element. When joining the upper and lower elements, a gap of 9 mm is left between the mounting strips.
	Alternative option. To save money, you can use 2 starting profiles instead of the corner profile. In this case, it is desirable to glue the joint between the profiles, and lay a waterproofing gasket under them.

Stage number 4. Internal corners

The installation technology of internal corners is practically the same as the installation of external ones. All tolerances are left exactly the same. But there are 3 options here.

If necessary, the inner corner is also overlapped. The arrangement rules here are similar to external docking.

Stage number 5. Arrangement of windows and doors

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Right angle connection. If the window is flush with the wall, then it is framed with starting profiles. Profiles can be joined with cutting at right angles and at an angle of 45º.
	Corner docking. The pruning isn't much more difficult here, but the look is better.
	We start the panel. You just need to cut the panels to fit the window and put them in the start profiles.
	slopes. If the slopes are small, then they are equipped with the help of starting and finishing profiles. On deep slopes, more panels are inserted between these profiles.

Stage number 6. Fasten the panels

The first panel is inserted into the lower starting profile and screwed or nailed to the batten guides. Subsequent panels cling to the groove of the previous ones, and are also nailed.

If you work in the summer, then in the heat you need to leave a gap of 5–6 mm everywhere. In winter, the same gap should be made about 9 mm.

Lateral docking is correctly performed using an H-profile, but to save money, you can cut the fastening strips and overlap the sheets.

If you are going to do everything as expected, then at the joints you will have to mount H-profiles and, observing all the gaps, join the strips through them. This is certainly correct, but not everyone likes such a noticeable docking.

Stage number 7. Roof

In order to properly connect the extreme strips with the profile, it is very often necessary to make special hooks. For this you will need a punch.

Under the soffit, we fasten the starting profile, after which we cut the extreme bar, taking into account the tolerances, and make a number of hooks along the cut with a punch.

For sheathing the frontal board and soffit, in addition to the starting profile, a J-chamfer is also used. The technology is shown in the diagram.

The pediment itself is sheathed in almost the same way as the walls, with the only difference being that too much material is spent on trimming.

Conclusion

According to the technology described above, not only wooden houses can be finished with siding, it is just as suitable for block buildings. If you have any questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

Updating the outer walls of a wooden house involves the use of additional materials on their surface. Sheathing a wooden house with siding is the most practical way. In addition, siding is a modern affordable material and looks beautiful from an aesthetic point of view.

Consider step by step how to choose the right material, calculate its quantity and carry out installation.

Material selection

The right choice of material will affect the entire structure as a whole.

Siding at the factory is available in different colors and textures. It is necessary to familiarize yourself with the information about it, study the information about its invoice.

To begin with, before selecting it, you should decide on the final look and color of the future home. Combined selection of textures, colors is possible. Then pick up the siding in accordance with the planned result.

Manufacturing enterprises produce several types of siding from 2.5 m to 4 m long.

Plastic

• Advantages: the most affordable inexpensive type finishes, is light in weight.
• Disadvantages: subject to mechanical damage.

Metal

• Advantages: durable, service life is long. It is recommended to purchase from authorized dealers, which guarantee a long-term absence of corrosion.
• Disadvantages: Requires occasional rust protection.

Wood

• Benefits: complements the properties of the original wall material. Environmentally friendly cladding.
• Disadvantages: increased price.

fiber cement

• Advantages: not flammable, has high strength. Diverse in color, style, texture.
• Disadvantages: heavy, difficult to install.

• metal galvanized, not subject to temperature changes 50×50, 60×27;
• Wooden.

A metal profile is most suitable for uneven surfaces. It is strong enough to support the weight of any type of decorative cladding.

Metal profiles with different sections are selected.

Costs will decrease when a wooden frame is used in the work, since it will not be necessary to create protection for the wall section at the line of contact with the crate.

The wood frame must meet the following criteria:

• no bundles;
• no deformation;
• no signs of decay or stains.

Before installation, the frame must be impregnated with antiseptics, as well as flame retardants to create a protective fire layer, a coating against fungus or mold.

Bars of size 40 × 40, 50 × 50 or 50 × 80 mm are selected. When doing do-it-yourself work, you should first study as much information as possible on this topic.

Equipment

A set of siding boards for cladding the facade of a house should be selected depending on their width and wall area.

The siding wall cladding package includes:

• panels directly;
• internal as well as external corners;
• the starting profile located first from the base;
• J-, H-, or T-profile;
• J-bevel;
• casing 75, 89 mm;
• soffit continuous;
• near-window profile;
• low tide;
• finish profile.

Additional decorative elements help to make the look of the house from the outside complete and beautiful.

Calculation of the number of siding elements

It is necessary to measure the length of the base of the building, its width, using a construction tape measure. Based on these measurements, it is recommended to draw up a sketch of the house with a drawing of the necessary materials and additional elements, notes on their quantity and size.

Number of panels

• the number of planks can be calculated by dividing the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe walls as a whole by the length and width of the element.

The material should be purchased with a margin of about 10% of the total number received.

Number of corners

To calculate the number of external and internal corners, it is necessary to measure the height of all the protruding and concave lines of the building. It is better to count the number of planks separately for each of the corners. It should be based on geometric shapes.

Total length of starting bars

Finishing as well as starting plates must correspond to the length of the side of the house.

Calculation of other elements

The calculation of J-panels and window slats is based on measurements of the perimeter of windows and doors. Consider window profiles.

Step by step instructions for installing siding

Installation of siding plates begins with preparatory work.

Preparatory work

If there is an old finish, it is dismantled.

The base of the wall is cleaned from dirt and dust. After that, the cleaned surface is treated with antiseptics, as well as a flame retardant to prevent it from external, atmospheric influences, premature destruction.

Additional tools, materials for the frame installation process:

• construction angle;
• construction stapler;
• insulation;
• wind protection, waterproofing;
• wood screws;
• sealant that does not expand in air.

Before fixing the frame, make sure that there are no damages on the wall or that there are places with unstable elements.

Frame installation

The distance in the middle of the guides is calculated taking into account the thickness of the insulation, if used.

The guides are fixed from each other at a distance equal to the width of the insulation minus 2 cm, approximately in steps of about 40 cm, 50 or 70. When using polystyrene, the fastening step is selected exactly according to its width.

In general, the pitch for the frame will be determined by the length of the siding panel.

To fix the siding in a horizontal position, for example, on the upper part of the facade of the house, the frame must be positioned vertically. And, conversely, for a vertical arrangement of decor, the crate is installed horizontally.

Fastening the frame starts from the corners of the facade of the house.

Around the windows, the guides are fixed along their contour. The length of the rails should not reach the bottom of the wall at a distance of approximately 40 - 50 cm.

For the correct use of any materials, you should read the instructions supplied by the manufacturer.

Step-by-step guide to attaching a siding frame:

• on the surface of the wall, it is necessary to install a special vapor barrier building membrane with a stapler with strips with an overlap of 10 cm. It will create the movement of air flows through the wall. To fix it, use double-sided adhesive tape;
• direct fastening of guides. You should check the evenness with the help of the building level;
• then the insulation, if provided, is laid in the openings between the guides;
• on top of the insulation, when using it, a layer of special wind protection is attached, as well as waterproofing. It is better to use vapor-diffusion windproof materials.

You should use nails treated with an anti-corrosion zinc or aluminum compound, self-tapping screws to fix the frame.

Fixing the starting J-profile

All operations during the installation of each panel are checked for the exact horizontal or vertical position by the building level.

• the lower point of the crate at a distance of 40 - 50 cm is marked by installing a loosely fixed self-tapping screw or in another way and is marked further along the contour of the building for subsequent fastening of the siding directly along them. The accuracy of the horizontal is checked in all places by the building level;
• the construction cord is pulled along the lower markings along the self-tapping screws installed at a level of 50 cm from the base or the ground;
• then mark the fixation points on the rails of the angle profiles. To do this, apply a profile to the rails located at the corners of the house;
• the starting profile is fixed at the mark with a rope, retreating 6 mm from the joint planned with the corner profile;
• the subsequent first strips are fixed 10-12 mm apart to prevent subsequent deformation from the effects of external temperature changes.

When the starting or first strips do not have a gap from the corner profile line, nail strips are cut on it. When joining the profile, cut the upper part to form a gap between the nail panels of 9 mm. The overlap is 25 mm.

At the end of the work, the accuracy of the position of the starting bars is checked by the building level.

Corner profiles

Before fixing the siding, the corner profiles of the outer and also the inner corners are attached to the frame rails.

Step-by-step instructions for installing external corner profiles:

• the extreme points of the location of the material for filing the sections near the roof - spotlights are marked;
• a guide is applied to the corner of the facade of the building;
• there is a gap between the roof line and the edge of the profile of 3 mm;
• at the bottom, the profile is fixed 6 mm below the line of the starting bar, forming an overlap. From the facade plinth, the profile is mounted higher with a gap of 6 mm and fixed to the screws in its upper part;
• check the vertical with a building level and adjust the panels as necessary;
• fasten on the self-tapping screws the remaining free central part and the lower one, avoiding the frequent location of self-tapping screws.

A gap of 3 mm is left between the end and the eaves.

The joints with the profile are created at the same distance, measuring for each corner of the building. Subsequent docking is carried out with an overlap. A section with mounting holes related to the top of the bar is cut, if necessary. Create a space of 9 mm from the top and between the bottom of the panel.

To close the docking points, an additional bar will be required. Similarly, the installation of profiles of concave corners is carried out. Corner profiles can be replaced with starting ones.

Framing openings

Works with openings have an increased level of complexity.

It should be determined how the opening is located relative to the wall: “flush” or “recessed” type.

The procedure for performing the work of openings "flush":

• waterproofing on the site along the contour of the window is required;
• J-type profiles are fixed, or platbands: 2 of them are horizontal and 2 of which are vertical;
• profiles are connected. It is necessary to bend the created notch-bridge at the top of the profile, to remove precipitation. Excess material is removed;
• when connecting the side profile to the top, the bridges must be inside.

Work is carried out similarly with recessed openings.

Installing the first panel

Work is started from the less visible side of the house.

The first panel is inserted into the locking part of the corner profile. It is latched, creating a distance from the lower section of the lock to the starting element to prevent distortion of the siding during the resulting expansion from exposure to temperatures.

Do not tighten the screws to the stop to avoid deformation of the siding panels under the influence of thermal expansion.

They are located in the central part of the site with holes for fastening the siding perpendicular to the wall.

Installing the rest of the panels

Subsequent panels are installed either with an overlap or using an H-profile.

When installing overlap siding:

• panel locks and fixing frames need to be shortened. As a result, the "overlap" should be 2.5 cm;
• gaps are created with a value of 0.3 mm from the edge of the soffit and 0.6 mm from the launch pad.

Installation of H-panels is carried out in a similar way.

In areas of openings, excess planks are cut.

Under the roof, sheathing with siding panels is carried out taking into account the measurement of the distance from the lower locking finish and the section of the penultimate plank. To the resulting number is added from 1 to 2 mm. This is the width of the last strip of siding.

Preparing the last piece. It is marked and cut at the top, and hooks are made every 20 cm. For this, cuts are created and bent to the side.

Insert the last panel into the lock of the finishing profile. He is pinned down.

Insulated siding installation

Facing the facade of the house with siding can be done with thermal insulation. Especially to sheathe the house With insulation is recommended when choosing metal siding.

In order to understand how to do this correctly and correctly select the type of insulation and its density, you should clarify the information on the initial data on the materials already used for building walls during the construction of the house and select materials based on it.

Types of insulation:

• mineral wool with good air permeability and moisture resistance;
• polystyrene board.

The use of insulation on the outer side of the walls eliminates the reduction of the internal areas of the rooms.

In central Russia, it is enough to use a 100 mm thick insulation.

Do not take into account the load on the walls or the foundation from it, since the material is practically weightless.

The technology of cladding facades with siding using insulation consists in putting it on suspensions. A knife creates slots for fasteners.

On average, one day is enough to complete this stage of work.

Installation of siding strips is carried out in strict accordance with the above rules. Price of work per m² of the house 9×9 can be about 250 rubles. depending on the type of plates and the amount of preparatory work.

You should remember about distortions, so you need to check the horizontals and verticals with a building level constantly.

In general, the work will be successfully completed with the correct calculations and thoughtfulness of each step.

A wooden house has many positive qualities, the main of which is environmental safety. However, there are a number of unfavorable factors that cause the development of biological lesions in natural wood. Mold, fungus and rot attack wood when exposed to atmospheric precipitation. To reduce the risk of destruction of a wooden house from rot and fungus, as well as to arrange reliable insulation of the building from the outside, siding will help. This article will help you learn how to sheathe a house with siding with your own hands. Video and photos on the device of siding sheathing - to help the master.

Diligent owners finish houses made of natural wood with siding for the following reasons:

Types of siding for finishing wooden buildings

For the decoration of wooden buildings, it is customary to use classic types of siding: plastic or metal, the plinth belt can be trimmed with sheathing stylized as a stone. There are varieties of sheathing panels made of precious woods and natural stone.

All types of siding are characterized by resistance to moisture, ultraviolet radiation, low temperatures. Cladding material made of vinyl and metal has significant strength, durability, attractive design, easy to install without the use of unique tools. With little experience, even an unskilled consumer can install siding. Finishing plates are environmentally friendly and have high fire-fighting qualities.

Metal siding

The choice of cladding material depends on the taste and requests of the owner of the building, as well as on the design parameters of the building, the operating conditions of the building, and the condition of the main load-bearing structures. Fundamentality and solidity are given to the exterior decoration of the house by stone and wooden surfaces. Of course, such siding is notable for its high cost, but the lined surfaces do not need annual finishing, they can be used without investing in repairs for many years. However, the stone has a significant weight, so it is impossible to veneer light and dilapidated buildings with such siding, the strengthening of which is not provided for when performing finishing work.

plastic siding

The most common option is to use a plastic facing material. plastic siding Perfectly is suitable for facing of objects of low-rise and multystoried construction. Polyvinyl chloride strips have a locking system, which is fixed in one click during assembly. The edge has a perforated edge for fastening with special fasteners. A high degree of wear resistance, strength, durability, resistance to moisture and ultraviolet radiation are the criteria for choosing plastic siding for facing the facade of any building.

metal siding more durable than vinyl counterparts. Suitable for cladding any surfaces, including industrial facilities. The industry produces steel and galvanized facing material, as well as aluminum siding. Strips of metal cladding are not subject to destruction from moisture, ultraviolet rays and minor mechanical stress.

Material resources and tools for facing works

For high-quality performance of work on the exterior cladding of a building, it is required to use special tools:

• Bulgarian;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• measuring instruments;
• a hammer;

Prepare the necessary tools for the cladding process

• scissors for cutting metal;
• screwdrivers;
• fasteners.

When doing work on your own, it is easy to purchase all the necessary fixtures in any building materials supermarket.

Advice! It is best to purchase fasteners for mounting cladding panels made of galvanized steel or aluminum. Such hardware is characterized by high strength, reliability, does not collapse from rust.

Materials required for facade cladding:

• siding;
• external and internal corners;
• start and finish bars;
• slats for fastening window openings;
• J and H profiles.

Vinyl siding

Calculation of the need for external corners: measure the length of all external corners of the building and divide by 3 (manufacturers produce external corners 3 m long).

Advice! It is necessary to provide for the priority use of only solid corners, avoiding mounting short sections in the outer corners.

To calculate the internal corners, it is required to measure the internal corners of the building, divide the result by 3. Calculation of the need for starting strips: perform preliminary measurements of the length of the house, excluding the sum of the lengths of the openings. Starting strips are produced with a length of 3.8 m. The J-profile is used when installing siding at the junction of adjoining buildings. The siding panels are attached to each other using an H-profile. The space near the windows is reinforced with special strips for mounting near the windows. Finishing strips help to strengthen the siding at the connection with the roof.

Profiles for siding installation

Secrets of installation of facing panels

Facing panels are laid on a pre-laid crate made of wood or metal. When laying the siding on the crate, it is worth leaving a gap of about 2 mm. With fluctuations in temperature, the material is subject to compression or expansion, so sufficient clearance must be provided in advance. When overlapping panels, the gap must be at least 6 mm.

Requirements for self-tapping screws: short, galvanized fasteners with a rounded head and no drill at the end of the screw part. It is possible to use nails on roofing felt.

Advice! Cutting material should be done as needed.

Preparatory work for the installation of cladding should first be performed on wall surfaces. Previously, the walls must be cleaned of dirt and dust, old facing materials. Cleaned surfaces are treated with a deep penetration primer with antiseptic properties.

Advice! Before laying the siding from the surface of the walls, mold spots and foci of fungal infections should be removed.

The next stage of preparatory work is the installation of a waterproofing layer under the crate. The waterproofing is fixed directly to the wall of the building, which is necessary for the presence of ventilation gaps.

Exterior cladding of the house

The installation of the crate is made of metal or wooden parts. Metal or wooden (50 x 80 mm) strips are mounted on the walls of the building with a step of 30 - 40 mm. Wooden parts are nailed to the walls with nails up to 100 mm long. For reliable fastening of the cladding, vertical and horizontal frames are mounted.

Advice! On the finished crate, you can begin the installation of cladding panels, while the flooring should start from the corner of the building.

The facade of a wooden house can be insulated, these works are combined with cladding. For wall insulation, mineral wool, basalt fiber mats, foam plastic, foam plastic are used. Insulation is placed in the space between the profiles, while a gap between the siding panels and insulating mats of 1-3 cm should be provided. The insulation layer on the outer surface is laid with a waterproofing material - isospan.

The process of cladding a house with siding

You can get acquainted with the intricacies of the cladding of a wooden house by watching the video for this article, which shows in detail the basic methods of laying facade slabs, the installation of the crate and the technology for laying and fastening the insulating material.

Siding technology: video

Often the appearance of a wooden house begins to lose its appeal over time. From exposure to rain, frost and sun, the tree deteriorates. To restore its former beauty, people often do-it-yourself siding of a wooden house with siding. This material is lightweight, so it will not give a strong load on the foundation. It is quite easy to install if you prepare the necessary material and tools in advance. Finishing siding will cost inexpensively, and a large assortment of types will allow you to choose the right one for you.

How to choose siding for finishing a frame house

Nowadays, walking along the street, it is impossible not to pay attention to the neat multi-colored facades of buildings. Such an appearance on city and village streets appears precisely thanks to siding. The plinth and cornices are also made using this material, but still its main purpose is to decorate the facade of the house.

The main advantages of the material:

1. The siding is not afraid of the sun's rays, it is resistant to ultraviolet radiation.
2. Pretty durable.
3. Large assortment of colors.
4. The material is not afraid of heavy rains, because it is moisture resistant.
5. It is easy to install, so you can do it yourself.
6. It goes well with other materials.
7. If the siding is properly maintained, it will serve you for a long time.
8. Polyvinyl chloride, metal, vinyl are used as raw materials for the manufacture of siding.

Even if your house is already many years old, and its appearance has deteriorated over the years, then everything can be covered with siding. Moreover, in this way the appearance of the house can be made unique. For example, wood-look finishes will give your home warmth, stone-look - seriousness and solidity. You choose.

Vinyl

The basis of this material is durable plastic. It can be smooth or imitate wood. There is a huge range of colors to choose from, and there are also shades of natural wood.

Table: advantages and disadvantages of vinyl siding

Wood

This type appeared on the market very first. Noble, expensive and environmentally friendly material. It also has excellent thermal insulation, but it will last for a relatively short time, and it also requires constant treatment with antiseptics.

Aluminum

Most often used for finishing commercial premises, as well as public buildings. The main advantages are:

• resistance to fire;
• water resistance;
• strength;
• ease;
• long service life.

But you need to remember about its shortcomings. These include absolute instability to mechanical damage. Even during transportation, dents can appear, which are almost impossible to get rid of.

cement

Nothing worse than artificial stone. In its manufacture, high-quality cement is used, to which fine elastic fibers are added.

When finishing the facade with this material, you need to use a special mask so as not to inhale the dust generated during cutting.

Table "Advantages and disadvantages of cement siding"

Steel

It can be found on the facade of a residential or public building. The panels are coated with a layer of polymer or powder coated. They are smooth and embossed.

Table "Advantages and disadvantages of steel panels"

Zinc

Appeared quite recently. Available in gray or black anthracite. It has the same advantages and disadvantages as steel siding, but the price is much higher, so it is rarely seen.

Ceramic

For its manufacture, silicate materials with the addition of fiber are used. Such panels are first hardened, and then covered with a special hypercoating (inorganic or silicon-acrylic dyes), which is their ceramic surface. This allows you to maintain an attractive appearance of the siding for a long time, and protects them from the aggressive effects of sunlight.

It has this type of siding and other advantages:

• increased heat and sound insulation;
• resistant to fire;
• environmentally friendly material;
• lasting;
• does not burn out;
• does not require special care.

However, ceramic siding costs much more than plastic or steel counterparts. For installation, a strong frame device is required due to the large mass.

Plinth siding

When creating a basement finish, a durable polymer is used, which is mixed with various substances. It is made under high pressure. Visually, it can look like natural stone, brick or wood. Thick, waterproof and durable. It is easy to mount. Has a wide range of shades. In addition, it does not change its properties during prolonged exposure to the sun and various weather phenomena.

There are a huge number of types of siding, and all of them are perfect for finishing a wooden house. The main thing here is to decide on the budget and appearance. The most affordable option would be vinyl siding, while copper and wood are suitable for luxury lovers.

Material calculation

So that it doesn’t turn out that you didn’t have enough material or, conversely, you didn’t buy too much, you need to correctly calculate its amount. Making the right measurements is not difficult at all. To do this, you will need a tape measure and a pencil.

Think about whether you need to finish all the walls of the house, or the siding will be located only on the facade. If you chose the second option, will you sheathe the pediment. All these points are important when measuring.

House measurements

This is done in order to accurately know the surface area that will be sheathed with siding.

If you have drawings of the facade with all the measurements, then there will be no problems with determining the dimensions of the house. If they don't, then you'll have to do it yourself. Measure only the area that will be covered by the siding, excluding windows and other similar structures. It is recommended to calculate the dimensions of each side of the house separately, as there may be slight deviations.

To find out the amount of material needed, you need to measure the height and width of each wall. To determine the area, these parameters must be multiplied. Separately, it is necessary to calculate the surface area that will not be finished with siding. It must be subtracted from the total. This will be the required amount of siding for a particular wall. Repeat these steps for other surfaces.

For convenience, draw a sketch of the house, where all the necessary measurements will be marked. Here you can mark where and what kind of siding will be located.

Do not buy the exact amount of material. Take it more by 10%. The stock is made in case of marriage and the need for trimming.

Fractional elements

These are the pieces that will hold the siding planks in place.

Table: how to calculate the number of small parts

Name	purpose	unit of measurement	How to calculate
starting bar	This fastener mounts the first row of panels. Most often at the bottom and at the junctions of different options for facing material.	Linear meter	Divide the perimeter of the building by the length of the plank. Round up.
Finish profile	Performs an aesthetic function. It is attached in the last row.	Linear meter	Calculate using the starting bar method.
Inner and outer corners	Fixing and decorative function. They are placed at the corner joints of the panels.	pieces	Add the lengths of all corners of the building and divide the resulting number by the length of the part.
T- and H-bars	For connecting vertical joints.	pieces	Depending on the number of joints, you need to purchase the same number of strips equal to the height of the house.
J-bar	It is applied to connection of a facade and a roof.	Linear meter	Add the length of all diagonal seams.
platbands	For window and door openings.	Linear meter, pieces	It is necessary to add up all the perimeters of the openings.

In addition, you must have:

• soffits (they make out the under-roofing space and roof overhangs);
• drainage systems;
• saw;
• drill driver;
• a hammer;
• level;
• roulette;
• pliers;
• respirator;
• glasses;
• gloves.

If you want to carry out the insulation of the house, then you need to take care of this in advance and purchase the appropriate material. You will also need a wind and vapor barrier, waterproofing and timber to build the batten. And, of course, scaffolding or a ladder to work above.

Video: material details

How to sheathe a wooden house with siding with your own hands: step by step instructions

Usually, building cladding with siding is resorted to in three cases:

1. If the house was built using ordinary or profiled timber, the appearance of which needs additional finishing.
2. If there is a need to additionally insulate the house, then heat-insulating material can be laid between the walls and the cladding.
3. If the building is in need of restoration.

How to prepare the surface of the walls

For this you need:

1. Remove all protruding structures from the facade of the house (drainage systems, window grilles, lighting equipment, etc.).
2. Dismantle the old lining, if any.
3. Clean building surfaces from dirt, fungus, mold, etc.
4. Treat the walls with special antiseptics and fire-fighting agents.
5. Cover communication pipes with sealant and mounting foam.
6. Clear the surrounding area (radius of 1 m) around the facade from debris.

Lathing installation

First of all, it is necessary to install wind and vapor barrier membranes. They are mounted with an overlap of 100–150 mm.

The next stage is the construction of the crate. For this, wooden bars are used, although sometimes a metal frame is also suitable. The width of the beam is from 2 to 4 cm, and the height is 4–8 cm. The exact size depends on whether the heat-insulating material will be laid. The moisture content of wood for the frame should be between 15 and 22%. It must be treated with an antiseptic and antipyrine.

Siding can be laid vertically and horizontally.

When mounting the crate, you need to perform the following steps:

1. Fasten the bottom beam directly above the plinth.
2. Fix the top bar.
3. Pull a thread between them, which will be a guide.
4. Set the intermediate bars under the level.
5. Waterproof the insulation with a film, especially if it is mineral wool.

Fasten the beam with nails or self-tapping screws with anti-corrosion protection.

The most protruding point of the facade will become a reference point for vertical deviations during the construction of the "skeleton".

When using insulation, leave small gaps that will provide natural ventilation.

Paneling

Now you can start finishing the facade with siding:

1. Install the J-profile 40 mm above the end of the cladding, which will act as the starting bar.
2. Install corner profiles.
3. Cut the siding panels to the correct size and install them. The panels are fastened to the frame using galvanized self-tapping screws. It is not necessary to clamp them closely, leave gaps of 1–2 mm to prevent deformation of the cladding.
4. The final stage is the finishing bar and mounting spotlights.

After sheathing with siding, the building is truly transformed. You can give a second life to your home.

Siding is famous for being easy and cheap to install. With proper installation of the panels, it will last for several decades, not being afraid of sudden changes in temperature, wind, or precipitation.

The duration of finishing work, their cost and quality directly depend on the skills of the installer. If you already have a little experience in construction, then sheathing your house with siding will not seem like too much of a task.

In this article, we will step by step analyze how to sheathe a house with siding with our own hands, and also tell you what materials and tools you will need for this.

Finishing the house with siding: preparatory work

Preparation for facing the house with siding begins with cleaning the exterior walls. First of all, all protruding parts that will interfere with the installation of panels are removed: drains, brackets, ebbs and shutters on windows, trim on doors - everything that protrudes from the flat surface of the walls.

Private houses made of stone and brick are cleaned of old plaster, covering all the cracks with cement mortar or mounting foam. Wooden houses are cleaned of dirt and mold, and then covered with a layer of antiseptic.

Finishing a house with siding involves an accurate calculation of the required amount of materials. Therefore, it is necessary to measure the width and height of the walls in advance, then subtract the total area of ​​​​windows and doors from their total area. You also need to calculate the perimeter of the house and all window and door openings, so the total length of the connecting structures will become clear.

Formula for calculating materials: (the area of ​​all the walls of the house − the area of ​​windows and doors) ÷ the area of ​​one panel × 1.10

Only the useful area of ​​the siding panel is taken into account, that is, without the upper fixing part. 1.10 in the formula is a 10% margin of material, which usually goes to marriage with inaccurate cutting and final fitting.

It is most convenient to use a schematic plan of the house - you can use it to calculate the required number of panels one by one, and you will immediately see where the full-length panels will go, and where cutting will be required. Any siding manufacturer will help you with the calculations for free. This can be done in advance in the Alta Calculator and Alta Planner online services.

Tools and materials

For quick and easy do-it-yourself siding installation, you practically do not need a special tool - it is enough that you already have it in any private house.

1. Roulette, square and metal ruler - for measurements.
2. Construction level of at least 120 cm - to check the accuracy of the installation of the crate vertically and the accuracy of laying the siding panels horizontally.
3. Electric drill, screwdriver or screwdriver - for fasteners.
4. A cutter knife, electric jigsaw, grinder or hacksaw (with small and sharp teeth) - any of these tools will be needed to trim the panels. It is better not to use a hacksaw when installing siding in the cold season, because the panels may crack. The grinder should only work at low speeds: at a high speed of rotation of its disk, the material of the panels at the cut site will melt.
5. A siding punch, also known as a punch, is used to make hooks to secure the siding to the finish plank.

The punch is the only siding installation tool that you have to buy specifically. Photo #1.

Connecting structures. Siding panels are not the only structural element that will be required during installation. Between themselves, they are connected by special strips: starting, connecting, finishing, etc. Separate structures are used when facing window and door openings, as well as building corners. The use of additional structures allows you to sheathe a house of any design with siding.

Plastic structures used in the installation of siding. Photo #2.

Areas of application of connecting elements. Photo #3.

Insulation. A private country house, used only in spring and summer, in most cases does not need additional insulation. The house in which they live all year round is usually insulated with mineral wool - it is laid outside the building, in the cells formed between the ceilings of the crate.

The scheme of the crate and laying insulation. Photo #4.

The crate is installed on the entire surface of the facade. First of all, it is mounted along the side surfaces of the building, corners, windows, doorways and other ledges. The standard distance between floors is 40 cm. But the heavier the panels, the less the step of the crate needs to be done. A denser crate should be on houses that stand in the zone of strong winds and possible hurricanes.

Windows and doors are surrounded by a crate along the entire perimeter - a reinforced contour is created, on which window and door trims are attached. Photo #5.

As a crate on log houses, simple wooden slats are usually used. Their main disadvantage is the high probability of curvature. Therefore, it is important to choose only dry straight slats without knots, soak them thoroughly with an antiseptic and install only in dry weather.

Another option is galvanized profiles. They are more versatile, but when mounted in extreme heat, they can expand. When it gets colder, the siding trim installed on such profiles is deformed.

The main advantage of polymer profiles is the quick and accurate installation of siding panels on them. Photo #6.

How to properly install panels

During the entire preparatory work, it is better to store siding panels in a covered dry room, protected from direct sunlight, in a horizontal position on a flat surface, at a temperature of -30 to +50 °C.

Fastener sequence. Siding panels are mounted on previously installed connecting structures: starting, connecting and corner strips. The lining starts from bottom to top from left to right. First, the starting bar is attached. It must be mounted absolutely horizontally: the evenness of laying all subsequent layers depends on this.

The first front panel is inserted into the starting bar and slightly pulled up until it clicks into place. Then the panel is screwed to the crate through special mounting holes: the first screw is screwed in the middle of the siding panel to avoid its deformation in the future. When screwing in the screws, the panel must not be pulled up - it must hang freely under its own weight.

After fixing the first siding panel, the next one is installed on it using exactly the same technology. In order to clad the facade evenly and accurately, it is recommended to assemble the panels simultaneously around the entire perimeter of the house - in a circle, visually monitoring the evenness of the laying and checking the horizontality of each third layer of panels with a building level. So there will be less waste during installation - you can immediately see where you can use the cut pieces.

The finish strip is attached after the last layer of siding panels has been installed. In the very top panel, you need to make hooks - this will require a punch. Then these hooks snap into the finish bar retainer.

thermal expansion gap. The main rule of installation is that siding and accessories should move freely and not rest against anything. Due to the natural temperature difference throughout the year, siding is subject to expansion and contraction. Therefore, with rigid fixation to the crate, it deforms and goes in waves.

This is how errors look when calculating clearances for thermal expansion. Photo number 7.

Be sure to leave 5–8 mm free between the siding panel and the side fastener. After mounting the panel, it should move freely to the left and right, but not dangle.

Fasteners. It is most convenient to fasten the siding to the crate with galvanized self-tapping screws with a sharp tip and a wide hat. They are not subject to corrosion and over time will not leave unpleasant rusty smudges on the facade.

There must be a distance of 1.5 mm between the screw head and the panel. The easiest way is to tighten the screw completely, and then loosen it by one turn. Photo #8.

The screws are screwed exactly in the middle of the mounting holes so that the panels can move. Photo #9.

Panel extensions. Often the length of the building is longer than the siding panel. In such cases, a connecting bar is used. In this case, panels of standard length have to be cut. When calculating their length, it is important to remember the temperature gaps.

Installation of siding panels with a connecting strip (left) and lengthening the panels with an overlap (right). Photo #10.

The second way to lengthen the panels is overlapping. So that the junctions are not conspicuous, the joints of the following layers are made with an offset. But still, after a few years, due to thermal expansion between the overlapped panels, gaps will appear and the joints will become noticeable.

Facing the house with siding - video

Even more information on how to properly and quickly sheathe a house with siding with your own hands, in the instructions of the Alta-profile company and on video.