Standards for the installation of plastic windows in a brick house. Plastic windows: installation according to GOST (video)

In addition to the cost of a plastic window, intermediary companies also include installation and delivery services in the final amount. In order not to spend thousands of rubles and save money, you can install a plastic window yourself. In that step by step master class we will teach you how to properly dismantle the old window and prepare a new one for installation, taking into account the installation technology in accordance with GOST.

Step # 1: Dismantle the old window

In our case, we are dismantling the plastic window. The old wooden window is removed from the opening in the same way, so there should be no problems at this stage. For dismantling, we need the following set of tools: a hacksaw, a crowbar or crowbar, a chisel, a spatula, a nail puller, a hammer drill, a screwdriver (Phillips screwdriver).

First, we remove the slopes. If they are made of PVC panels, clean the seams of any sealant or glue. Take a chisel or flathead screwdriver, remove decorative panels... If the slopes are plastered, use a chisel and hammer to remove the layer of plaster. Remove the sashes from the hinges. In plastic windows, remove the decorative top plate, press the stem with pliers. Remove only the cover plate from the lower hinge, lift the sash up.

Wooden windows are more difficult. Often the hinges are painted over with paint or completely rusted, then we knock out the stock by hand with a hammer or tear off the sash from the frame with a crowbar or crowbar.

We remove the glass unit. We take a spatula, insert it end-to-end with the glazing bead, which fixes the position of the glass unit, pry it off and remove it. We remove all 4 glazing beads that hold the glass unit. The last one is to remove the upper glazing bead. We take out the glass, remembering to put on tight gloves so as not to get hurt. For safe removal glass from the frame, you can use special suction cups.

We pass to the windowsill. Remove the old concrete window sill with a hammer and puncher. Our windowsill is plastic. Since it is in good condition, we carefully take it out and peel off the old layer of polyurethane foam. It can be easily dismantled with one light jerk upwards. Remove the ebb, unscrew the fixing screws with a screwdriver or screwdriver.

We take a hacksaw and cut the old layer of polyurethane foam with a tool around the entire perimeter of the window. We remove the fasteners. We unscrew or pull out the anchor plates or self-tapping screws for concrete with a nail puller.

After all the stages of dismantling, the frame remains in the opening. We carefully take it out, preferably with a partner. Wooden frame it is more convenient to remove in parts, by first sawing the impost (frame divider), lower part and then remove the sides and the top bar.

Step # 2: Attaching the new window frame to the opening

Before starting work, we remove dust, debris, pieces of concrete on the slopes, large nails. For better adhesion of the polyurethane foam to the base, cover it with a primer over the entire width. We insert the frame into the window opening and try it on, after removing the sashes and double-glazed windows.

We put support pads under the corners and impost connections of the lower frame profile. We make sure that on both sides the frame goes over a quarter of the window opening. We use mounting wedges, not pieces of wood or old window frames. The gaps between the frame and the slopes should be about 2 cm at the sides and bottom and at least 1 cm at the top to fill the space polyurethane foam.

We check possible horizontal and vertical deviations with a level.

If you install metal-plastic window according to GOST, we recommend sticking PSUL tape along the outer perimeter of the frame. It will protect assembly seams from ultraviolet radiation, moisture penetration, mold and mildew formation, and create reliable sound insulation. Along the end with inside frames (on the sides and on top), we glue a double-sided vapor barrier tape. It removes excess moisture to the outside and does not allow it to penetrate with outside, provides good ventilation... The tape to be applied must be wider than the seam for overlapping.

We drill holes in the frame and wall for the pins. We retreat from the corners of the frame in each direction by 15-18 cm and check the level deviations. It is difficult to do everything yourself. Therefore, one person works with a puncher, and the other holds the level. The distance between the fasteners on the frame should not exceed 70 cm.

On the lower part of the frame, we retreat 12-18 cm from the dividers (imposts) on each side and make holes for the pins. We do the same at the top of the frame.

We insert pins into the holes, we do not tighten them before the end. We check again the structure by level and finally fix the fasteners. We put decorative caps on the hats.

Step 3: external waterproofing and foaming of the seams

For waterproofing the external assembly seam, we lay a vapor-permeable tape under the ebb. It will protect the seam from moisture and provide adequate ventilation.

We lay the tape along the entire length of the window opening. Remove the bottom base and attach it with the adhesive side to the base. We fix the drainage. In our case, we use old sample with tailored dimensions. When installing a new ebb, we measure the distance between the quarters. According to the measurements taken, we cut off the desired length of the low tide. We retreat 2 cm on each side and cut off the edge. We insert the ebb into the groove and fix it with self-tapping screws on the support profile, drilling 3-5 holes for fixing.

If earlier you or your friends used the services of firms for the installation of double-glazed windows, then you know that the installation can be normal and in accordance with GOST. The second option is more expensive, but if all the requirements are met, then the quality will be much higher than in the first (for more details on the norms, see GOST 30971-02).

Consists of several stages.

Note! The manufacturers do not give a guarantee if the measurements were not carried out by their employees. If installed incorrectly, the windows will soon begin to freeze, and if even the slightest mistake was made in the calculations, then the structure simply will not enter the opening.

Nevertheless, if you study all the subtleties of the process, then there will be no difficulties during installation. Moreover, you can save a decent amount of money this way.

Video - Installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST

Stage 1. Measurements

In most apartments there are openings without a quarter.

Note! The quarter is a 6 cm wide inner frame (or ¼ brick, hence the name), which prevents the window from falling out and reinforces the structure as a whole.

If there is no quarter, then the frame will be installed on the anchors, and the foam will be covered with special cover strips. Determining the presence of a quarter is quite simple: if the inner and outer widths of the frame are different, then there is still a quarter.

1. First, the width of the opening is determined (the distance between the slopes). It is recommended to remove the plaster to make the result more accurate.
2. Next, the height is measured (the distance between the slope above and the window sill).

Note! Measurements need to be repeated several times and take the smallest result.

To determine the width of the window, two mounting gaps are subtracted from the width of the opening. To determine the height, the same two gaps plus the height of the profile for the stand are subtracted from the height of the opening.

The symmetry and straightness of the opening is checked, for which a mounting level and a plumb line are used. All defects and irregularities must be indicated in the drawing.

To determine the width of the drainage, add 5 cm for the bend to the already existing drainage. Also, this takes into account the width of the insulation and cladding (subject to the subsequent finishing of the facade).

The dimensions of the window sill are determined as follows: the size of the departure is added to the width of the opening, the width of the frame is subtracted from the obtained figure. With regard to the departure, then it should overlap the heating radiator by a third.

Note! are measured at the end of the installation.

Stage 2. Order

After measurements finished drawing should be referred to the window manufacturer, all the necessary fittings will be selected there. It is worth remembering that installation can be performed in one of two existing ways:

In the first option, you will have to pull the bag out of the frame, insert it into the opening and install the glass back. In the second case, the entire structure is attached as a whole. Each option has its disadvantages - if you pull out the package, then it can; and vice versa, if the window is put assembled, then it can be damaged due to its heavy weight.

Prices for a popular line of windows

Stage 3. Preparation

This stage of installation begins only after the delivery of the ordered windows. First released workplace, all furniture is covered plastic wrap(there will be a lot of dust).

Step 1. If required, a double-glazed window is removed from the window. For this, the glazing bead is slightly pry off with a staple and pulled out. First of all, the vertical glazing beads are removed, then the horizontal ones. They must be numbered, otherwise gaps will form after installation.

Step 3. The bolts are unscrewed after the plugs are removed from the awnings. The handle is turned to "ventilation mode" (in the center), the window is opened slightly and removed. Only the frame with imposts remains.

Note! Mullions are special jumpers intended for dividing the sashes.

Then you need to make a markup for the anchors and make holes along it - two from the bottom / top and three on each side. This requires anchors ø1 cm and a drill of the required diameter.

If the material from which the walls are made is loose (for example, aerated concrete), then the fastening is carried out using anchor hangers. The latter should be fixed to the wall and frame with hardened self-tapping screws (eight each).

Note! To avoid the formation of a thermal bridge in the window sill profile, it should be filled in the day before installation. So the element will not freeze.

Stage 4. Dismantling work

This procedure is recommended to be carried out immediately before the installation of a new window. In most cases, the old ones are thrown away, so the structure can be torn out together with the mount, and, if necessary, the frame can be sawed.

Step 1. First, the sealant and thermal insulation are removed.

Step 3. The window sill is removed, the cement layer under it is peeled off.

Step 4. The adjacent surfaces are treated with a primer (by the way, many installers forget about this). In the case of a wooden opening, a layer of waterproofing material is laid around the perimeter.

Note! Installation can be carried out at a temperature not lower than -15ᵒС. The polyurethane foam must be frost-resistant.

Stage 5. Installation of a plastic window

Step 1. First, wooden wedges are placed around the entire perimeter, a window is installed on them (this will make it easier to align the structure), only after that it is attached to the wall. The underlays can be left as additional fasteners.

Step 2. The absence of a support profile can be considered a gross violation of GOST standards, since it is not only needed for stability, but also makes it possible to install an ebb with a window sill. In the absence of a profile, they are attached directly to the frame, which violates its tightness.

The correct position of the stand profile is shown in the diagram.

Step 3. Next, the evenness of the window is checked in three planes, for which a mounting level and a plumb line are used. Typically, traditional bubble levels are not suitable for this due to insufficient measurement accuracy, so it is better to use.

Step 4. If the window has risen evenly, then it is fixed with anchors. To do this, a wall (approximately 6-10 cm) is drilled with a perforator through the previously prepared holes in the structure. The lower anchors are fixed (not completely), the flatness of the package is checked again, after which the remaining points are attached.

Note! The final screed is made only after the final check. Do not tighten too much, otherwise the structure will "skew".

Prices for polyurethane foams and nail gun cleaners

Polyurethane foam and nail gun cleaners

Stage 6. Drainage

Outside, an outflow is attached to the support profile with self-tapping screws. The joints are carefully sealed with sealant to prevent moisture penetration into the structure.

The edges of the low tide are recessed into the walls by a few centimeters, having previously made recesses with a perforator.

Note! The bottom slot is also sealed before installation.

Step 7. Assembling the window

After fixing the anchors, the glass unit is inserted back.

Step 1. The glass is inserted and fixed with glazing beads (the latter should snap into place, for which you can lightly tap them with a rubber mallet).

Step 2. The leaves are opened, their tightness is checked. V open position arbitrary opening / closing of the sash cannot happen if the window is installed flat.

Step 3. Closed on the sides assembly seam... Polyurethane foam will provide high-quality waterproofing and will prevent the glass from fogging. Before and after sealing, the joints are sprayed with water to improve polymerization.

Note! The seams are filled no more than 90%, otherwise the structure will "lead". If done correctly, the foam will come out a few centimeters after drying.

Step 4. The perimeter of the window is glued with a special vapor barrier tape, and a material with a foil surface is used from below.

Stage 8. Installation of the window sill

Step 1. The sill is trimmed so that it fits into the opening and at the same time rests against the lining profile. There remains a small gap (about 1 cm) for thermal expansion. In the future, the gap is hidden by plastic

Step 2. Wooden wedges are placed under the windowsill. It must be laid with a slight slope towards the room, and then applied with something heavy for a while, until the foam dries. Additionally, the window sill can be fixed with anchor plates.

Video - Installation instructions for plastic windows

conclusions

Now you know how plastic windows are installed, so you can safely get down to work. The final check of all elements can be carried out only 24 hours after the end of installation (then the foam will already "set").

The described technology is quite applicable to, although there are also some nuances - such, for example, as installing a parapet to create a partition.

Find out how to do it right in our new article.

Installation of PVC windows in compliance with the rules given in GOST 30971, adopted in 2012, will allow you to significantly extend their service life, avoid glass fogging and protect window openings from moisture. How to install a plastic window in accordance with GOST, and what materials to use for this, you can find out by reading our article.

For high-quality and fast work, you will need the following set of tools:

• Perforator.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Drill screwdriver.
• Nail pulling machine.
• Sledgehammer.
• Level.
• Yardstick.
• Pencil.
• "Bulgarian".
• Silicone gun.
• Square.
• Metal scissors.
• Putty knife.
• Slick.
• Rubber hammer.
• Pliers.
• Brush.

Depending on the type of window opening and window model, you may need additional tools not included in the list.

In addition to tools, to install a plastic window, you must have the following consumables:

• • PSUL is a pre-compressed self-expanding sealing tape. PSUL has various thicknesses and widths and is designed to hide the outer foam seam.

• • Vapor barrier tapes - needed to hide the foam seam inside the room. There are metallized and fabric-based tapes. Metallized tapes are used for "dry" finishing of a window opening ( plastic slopes, drywall or PVC panels). A fabric-based vapor barrier tape designed for finishing materials on water based(plaster, plaster and so on).

• • Diffusion tape- is necessary as a lining under the window cornice. This tape has the ability to let air through, but not to let water through.

• • Underlay under the windowsill- is a tape on a metallized base, with a layer of insulation, serves as a heat and vapor barrier.

• • Anchor plates- window mounts connecting the frame with window opening... Anchor plates allow you to fix the window in the opening without through holes in the frame.

• • Self-tapping screws - attach the anchor plates to the window.

• • Dowel screws - connect the anchor plates to the window opening.

• • Priming compound- intended for surface treatment, at the place of gluing vapor barrier tapes.

• • Wooden wedges- are needed for intermediate fixing of the window in the opening and setting the level.

• • Base profile- is attached to the bottom of the frame and serves as a window stand and a mount for the cornice and window sill.

• • Plastic window sill- comes complete with a window, but, if desired, can be replaced with window sills made of other materials.

• • Drain - rarely included in the basic set of a plastic window, usually ordered separately.

• Polyurethane foam - used for filling joints and as an additional fastening element.

Preparatory work

Dismantling

If it is necessary to dismantle the old window, do the following:

1. Remove all leaves from their hinges.
2. Remove the glazing beads and remove the glass from the fixed sections of the window.
3. Detach the trims, drain and sill from the frame.
4. Remove the mortar and foam between the frame and the window opening.
5. Using a grinder, cut off all frame fasteners.
6. Pull the frame out of the opening.
7. Remove the remaining foam and mortar at the location of the frame.

Window preparation

Before installing a plastic window in the opening, it is necessary to make a number of preparatory work:

1. Remove the window sashes from the hinges by knocking out the awning rods with a hammer and screwdriver.
2. Remove the glass units from the fixed sections of the window. To do this, you need to knock out the glazing beads from the fastening grooves; this can be done with a rubber hammer and a wide chisel, or a spatula.
3. Attach the stand profile to the bottom crossbar of the frame. When connecting the profile and the frame, use - PSUL as a gasket between them.
4. Install anchor tapes around the perimeter of the window. The straps are screwed to the frame and base profile with screws. For ease of installation, bring the ends of the anchor strips inside the room. Depending on the size of the window, from 2 to 4 fasteners are installed on each side of the frame.
5. Glue PSUL on the upper and side frame posts, so that the tape protects the outer seam after filling it with polyurethane foam.
6. Paste diffusion tape on the support profile from the outside of the window.
7. To protect the inside of the seams, glue vapor barrier tape to the frame.

Window installation in the opening

After all the preparatory work, install the frame in the window opening:

1. Secure the frame to the opening with wedges.
2. Check the correct horizontal and vertical position of the frame with a spirit level.
3. With the frame in the correct position, through the holes in the anchor strips, mark the places for the dowel screws.
4. Having drilled holes with a punch, fix the frame in the window opening with anchor tapes.
5. Using a brush and a primer, treat the bonding points of the vapor barrier tapes and PSUL.
6. Fill the space between the frame and the window opening with low expansion foam.
7. After the foam dries, trim off the excess.
8. Glue PSUL and vapor barrier tape to the window opening.

Installation of drain and window sill

1. Spread out the diffuser tape and place the drain on it.
2. Attach the drain to the support profile using self-tapping screws.
3. Cut the window sill to fit the slopes of the window opening.
4. In the place where the window sill will be located, lay a metallized tape with insulation.
5. Insert the window sill into the support profile and fix it with screws.
6. Seal the gaps between the frame, drain and windowsill with silicone sealant.

Final work

1. Insert the double-glazed windows into the window sections, securing them with glazing beads.
2. Install the flaps in their places.
3. Check the operation of the window handles and mechanisms.

The plastic window has been installed, it remains to finish the slopes of the opening and then remove the protective film.

Look detailed instructions for installing a plastic window using GOST standards, you can also in the video:

With the emergence of innovative technologies, ordinary residents were able to equip their homes with greater comfort, coziness and warmth. Plastic windows play a significant role in this process. We can finally get rid of wooden windows, which dry up in summer, dry out in winter, retain heat poorly and become sources of drafts.

A glass unit of a modern type does not have the listed disadvantages at all. It is durable, strong, safe for human body, has a beautiful and attractive appearance. PVC windows will delight you with their functionality for a long time, but with only one condition: the installation of double-glazed windows must be in accordance with GOST and the observance of all the nuances and rules of installation technology. How to install plastic windows correctly if you have never done this before?

Trying to do the installation of double-glazed windows with your own hands is quite problematic, especially if you live in multi-storey building... This will require the skill of a climber, which you will not have. Therefore, the easiest way out is to hire specialists. But even if workers come to you who deserve numerous good reviews who have recommendations, you should check if they set your window correctly. And for this you need to know the main points of the installation of plastic windows, which, for your part, you must control.

Window installation

The technology for installing a plastic window in accordance with GOST assumes step-by-step execution a number of measures and activities according to specified criteria, and in strict sequence each stage.

Installation of PVC windows in accordance with GOST begins with dismantling the old window: workers must completely remove it, clean the opening to a brick or concrete base frames. Further, the workers must prime the surface of the slopes into which the new frame will fit.

Please note that the installers use a primer when working, but not water. The primer will provide good adhesion materials that will be further used to isolate the resulting voids.

How is the special tape attached to PVC frame? The compressed compressed tape is attached around the perimeter frames from the outside. Its main purpose is to remove residual moisture that will remain in window opening... Such a device restrains the penetration of moisture in the opposite direction.

Then to the window frame attach the diffusion tape... As a rule, she white, dense fabric structure on a rubber basis. It adheres well to openings in the wall, and also protects the seam from moisture.

After all tapes have been attached, the installers fix the anchor plates to the frame... They are placed around the entire perimeter with a distance of 70 cm from each other. After that, the window block can be installed in the window opening.

Now the installation of a plastic window in accordance with GOST goes to another stage, including it fastening to the window opening.

Important! The glass unit should not be placed on concrete, but on wooden blocks that have been treated with an antiseptic compound. These pads help to adjust the clearances between the frame and the concrete slope. According to existing regulations, the gap should not exceed 2 cm.

When the anchor plates are attached to the wall opening, the resulting gap must be fill with polyurethane foam.

Foam is additional thermal insulation... It should fill all gaps and crevices to prevent excess moisture from entering. In addition, it is the polyurethane foam that helps to reduce noise. After filling the cracks with foam from the inside, the seams must be close with dense diffuse tape.

Before installing the window sill, workers should use metallized tape, which takes part in the thermal insulation of the bottom seam.

Remember! Professional installers should lay the protective tape over the outside of the window, that is, from the street. And the foam from the side of the facade should not be visible at all.

Sill mount

- this is final stage PVC installations windows.

Lay on a concrete base cement screed, which will help ensure the stability of the window sill. Only on this solution will it not sag and even will be able to support the weight of a person who wants to sit on a comfortable base.

Internal slopes are applied to the initial profile, and each subsequent step is performed using measurements building level which helps trace the level of inclination of the frame... If it exceeds the norm even a little, then the window will be bad both to open and close. Therefore, for construction crew you need to watch carefully.

Installation of plastic windows in accordance with GOST 30971-2002 should be carried out in this sequence. And finally, we note that before letting the workers go and signing the work acceptance act, check the work of the window, open and close the doors and make sure correct work in all directions.

In conclusion, we suggest watching a video of how the installation of a plastic window according to GOST should look like:

If you happened to install plastic windows, and the workers who served you performed the installation strictly according to the instructions and in accordance with GOST 30971-2002, leave your feedback in the comments.

By investing heavily in the installation of plastic windows, people expect to seriously increase the level of comfort in their apartment. Study carefully the lineup, compare the advantages of the profiles used in various designs... But all the advantages of PVC windows can be crossed out by mistakes made during their installation. Most of the claims against companies that install PVC windows are made specifically for the quality of work of the installers. Plastic windows will last a long time and will not lose their qualities if the installers are guided during installation by GOST, and not by purely personal considerations.

What document regulates the process of installing plastic windows?

In March 2003, GOST 30971-2002 was developed and adopted, which ensured the formalization of installation work. The adoption of this document was facilitated by the state program to increase energy efficiency and energy saving.

But not all companies are guided in their work by the provisions of this document. The high requirements of GOST 30971-2002 increase the costs of firms operating in the PVC window market. Therefore, small companies often ignore its provisions, saving on the quality of the services provided. This is also facilitated by the low professional level of employees of such enterprises.

Familiarity with this document will bring tangible benefits to the ordinary man in the street. Knowing the rules for installing PVC windows, he will be able to control the entire installation process, and after its completion he will be able to receive detailed technical documentation on the work performed and full warranty service.

What documents are required during installation?

The owner of new PVC windows should have two documents on hand, one of them - before installation, the other - at the end of work on replacing window blocks.

1. A contract is preliminarily drawn up, in which must be present necessary calculations according to the thermophysical properties of the window installed in a specific wall opening. Based on them, the best scheme installation, which is agreed with the customer.
2. After the installation of plastic windows is completed, the customer is given a technical certificate of installation with an installation diagram. It should also list the materials used to seal the assembly joints and the contractor's warranty obligations.

Room preparation

The process of replacing window blocks is accompanied by the release of a large amount of dust. Therefore, before starting work, it is necessary to free the room from furniture as much as possible and household appliances... Anything that cannot be taken out, as well as walls and floors, must be covered with foil or newspapers to prevent contamination.

Tip: you can use an old blanket as a kind of screen, pulling it wet at a distance of two to three meters from the window opening. It will take on a significant proportion of the dust, and then you can simply throw it away.

Preparation of window openings

Before installing plastic windows, it is necessary to remove the old frames from the wall opening. For this, installers use a puncher, electric jigsaw and a crowbar. GOST 30971-2002 requires the contractor to pre-prepare openings for window blocks: thoroughly clean the surface and eliminate existing defects. Also, GOST requires the presence of false quarters at the openings in which the installation of plastic windows is carried out. They are required to form a three-layer assembly seam.

Note: the quarters are protrusions designed to protect the seams from external adverse influences. In their absence, so-called false quarters are created, usually made from metal or plastic corners.

Three layers of assembly seam when installing PVC windows

Regardless of the materials chosen by the installers of plastic window blocks, according to the rules, any assembly joint must contain three layers.

• The outer layer must protect the rest of the joint materials from moisture. At the same time, it must allow air to pass through for ventilation of the insulation. In most cases, pre-compressed sealing tapes (PSL) are used to form this layer. Before mounting the window box in the opening, it is pasted over with these tapes. In the future, they expand and close all the gaps between the box and the wall opening. PSUL are ideal for installation works in new houses where the geometry of the wall openings is not disturbed. But if the slopes are uneven or plastered, then when using such a protective material, certain problems may arise. According to GOST 30971-2002, when installing PVC window blocks, it is allowed to use different kinds sealants such as silicone.

Important! The sealant should not be applied directly to the foam and should only cover two sides of the joint.

• The middle layer provides thermal insulation. To fill it, use polyurethane foam, which is selected based on the climate of the area. It is necessary to fill the seam with it in such a way that later you do not have to cut off the excess from the side of the street: such manipulations facilitate the ingress of moisture into this layer. If there is a need to apply several layers of foam, then the time interval between the formation of each of them should be maintained according to the rules defined by GOST.

• The inner layer protects the insulation from moisture from the side of the room. It consists of vapor barrier tapes. It is necessary to ensure the correct calculation of the overlap of such a tape, which should be at least half the width of the material. Wrinkling should also be avoided when laying the tape. Most often, installers use tape with a printed inside protective coating, but if the window openings are plastered, then it is better to choose a tape with an outer coating.

How the window unit should be mounted

When installing the window unit, ensure that there is a sufficient gap between the window profile and the wall opening. The gap will not only make it possible to carry out all the work on filling the joints with high quality, but also compensate for possible changes in the geometry of the window caused by temperature fluctuations.

There are rules for the location of fasteners:

• for white PVC window frames maximum distance between them is no more than 700 mm;
• if the window box is colored, then this distance is reduced to 600 mm;
• fasteners must be located at a distance of at least 150 mm from corners and joints;
• wooden blocks used to pre-fix the window must be pre-treated with antiseptic materials, their height must be at least 20 mm;
• in most cases, window frames are fastened with dowels and anchors, which are driven into the wall to a depth of 40 mm.

Important! All fasteners must be anti-corrosive, usually stainless steel or chrome plated steel.

What else should the contractor do after installing the window

Not knowing the standards of GOST, many customers believe that the contractor's obligations end after the installation of the window unit is completed. And the companies that install PVC windows take advantage of this, making their work easier. In fact, the contractor is obliged to additionally perform the following actions:

• Check the operation of the window sashes, if necessary, adjust them and eliminate possible distortions.
• Check the operation of all fittings installed on the window.
• Remove protective film.
• Collect and dispose of waste generated during the removal of old window frames and installation of a plastic window block.

The Importance of Correct Window Installation

Correct installation of a plastic window will avoid typical problems arising from improper installation. These include:

• Insufficient thermal insulation of the structure, the formation of so-called cold bridges.
• The appearance of mold and mildew due to poor waterproofing or insufficient vapor permeability of the assembly seam.

• The appearance of distortions of the sash or window frame caused by an insufficient thermal gap or improper placement of fasteners.

Subject to all the rules prescribed in GOST, a plastic window can last up to 20 years without losing its characteristics.