How the house lily reproduces. Propagation by axillary buds of lilies in moss

The need for transplanting lilies depends on the variety, the "age" of the plant and the period of its flowering. But for everything rich species diversity of these colors, there are general recommendations to care and maintain them in a healthy state.

The genus Lily unites more than 110 species perennial plants, distributed mainly in Europe and Asia. In our gardens, lilies are loved for the variety of colors and flower shapes. As a rule, lilies thrive well on light soil, with a slight admixture of sand. In one place they grow up to 5 years, and then the bulbs grow in colonies, become smaller, and the plants bloom worse. That is why lilies need regular division and replanting.

Five years after planting, the lily flowers turn pale and wilted

When to transplant lilies

The most optimal period for planting and transplanting lilies in the garden of the middle zone is August-September, in the southern regions - until mid-October. In any case, it is necessary to "disturb" the lilies after flowering (therefore September is considered the ideal month for transplanting).

Immediately after flowering, the lily needs to be cut off the flowers so that the plants do not consume nutrients for seed formation

Is it possible to transplant lilies in the summer (in July)

Only some varieties with a special vegetative cycle can be replanted in July. These are mainly Candidums, which have a dormant period in July-August, so it is better to transplant them during these months. Asian hybrids easily tolerate transplanting at any time of the year. The main thing with a summer transplant is not to damage the roots.

If lilies have bloomed early, they can be transplanted in summer.

Is it possible to transplant lilies during flowering

In most cases, this is a risky activity that harms the plant. It is believed that during flowering, only Asiatic lilies can be transplanted, which bloom early and are generally considered one of the most hardy. In particular, varieties can be transplanted during flowering. Aelita, Yeti, Lady Jane, Iowa rose,Montreux, Pearl Jennifer, Pearl Justin, Red Velvet, Pink haze, Sweet Sarrender, White Twinkle.

How often should lilies be transplanted

For the full development of lilies, they need to be dug up and transplanted every 3-4 years. Asian varieties and pipe lilies (varieties In memory of Zalivsky,Lorina, Pink Perfection, Snow Queen etc.) you need to change your "place of residence" every year.

Lilies can also be planted near the southern walls.

Lilies should be transplanted to a new, sunny place without stagnant water. In partial shade, they will also grow, but with paler flowers.

Reproduction of lilies by division and children

Lilies can be propagated in several ways. The simplest and most popular is the division of bulb nests. This method is based on the natural development of lilies, in which the adult "mother" bulb annually forms daughter bulbs with new roots and stems. They are used to grow new plants.

The onion nest begins to divide 3-4 years after planting, when at least 4-6 bulbs have formed on it. Optimal time for work comes a month after flowering. If you start dividing earlier, when the bulbs are weakened, lost weight and wilted, the plants may not take root.

How to propagate bulbs correctly division:

carefully dig up a mature shrub without damaging the bulbs and perennial roots. If you seriously damage the root system, the transplanted lilies may not bloom next year;

lay the bulb nest on the ground and separate the daughter bulbs and small children. You should have 2-3 grown together large bulbs in your hands, from which the stems stretch upward. There should be as many bulbs as there are stems;

trim the stems of the lilies, leaving small stumps. Remove the soil from the roots and carefully divide the nest into individual bulbs. This can be done by hand, without special tools;

inspect each lily for signs of damage, rot, disease and dark spots. Healthy bulbs have white scales with a pinkish tinge, without any spots;

This is how damaged lily bulbs look like

remove dead and rotten roots with a secateurs, and cut healthy ones to 15-20 cm;

sort planting material and select bulbs of approximately the same size. Place the bulbs intended for planting in a dark place and cover with a damp cloth, which should be regularly moistened with water;
do not rush to throw away bulbs rejected for "clean" planting. Try to etch them in a 0.2-0.4% solution of Maxim for several hours, then dry and plant them separately from the rest;

plant bulbs on an auspicious day, focusing on the lunar calendar.

Reproduction of lilies by children

When you dig up the lilies, you may find small 1 cm in diameter bulbs that form at the base of the stems. During the season, up to 10 such children are formed in the underground part. Over time, if not removed, they grow and form a bulbous nest with a "mother" bulb.

There are two ways to separate babies from the mother's bulb:

when digging and dividing nests in September;
raking the soil from the base of the roots and sifting it.

Children are planted in schools - pre-prepared beds with fertile soil, protected from wind, rain and snow. They are planted at a distance of 10-12 cm from each other to a depth of 4-5 cm.

The children planted in September by the next season will give stems up to 25 cm high, but they will not be able to bloom. After the second wintering, 1-2 buds may appear on the plant, they should be removed so that the plant grows stronger. At full strength, the lily blooms only in the third year.

Reproduction by children can be carried out in April-May. They should be stored in a cellar or refrigerator until spring.

If you are interested in this method of reproduction of lilies, then know that the formation of children can be stimulated. To do this, separate the flowering stems and bury them in sand or light soil, leaving only the top on the surface. Remove the leaves and buds. By autumn, baby bulbs will appear in the axils of the leaves of the buried stem.

Reproduction of lilies by scales

This method allows you to get the largest amount of planting material. Up to 20 flakes are obtained from one bulb, and up to 2-5 bulbs are formed on each of them for reproduction.

You can harvest planting material all year roundbut it is best to do it in early May.

There are two known methods for reproduction of lilies by scales.

The first method is by digging out the bulbs. Rinse the bulbs removed from the ground and carefully separate the scales from the base. If you want to save the bulb itself for further reproduction, then leave at least half of the scales on the bottom. Select only the healthiest and cleanest scales for reproduction:

rinse them thoroughly with water;
immerse in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate for 20 minutes;
treat with a growth stimulant (Kornevin, Epin);
place the scales of the bulbs in a bag with wet sawdust or moss and tie it up;
hide the bag in a warm and dark place;
after 6-8 weeks, small bulbs are formed at the base of the scales, which must be separated and planted in open ground or boxes.

The second way is without digging out the bulbs. When using this method, carefully scoop the soil away from the plant without touching the roots. Then carefully separate the scales from the base of the bulbs. For disinfection, rinse the material for 20 minutes in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate and treat with a growth regulator. Then roll the flakes in crushed charcoal and place in a clean plastic bag with a mixture of calcined sand and peat. Tie up an air-filled bag and place in a dark place at room temperature. After 6-8 weeks, bulbs with roots appear on the scales, which are planted in a school for growing.

Propagation of lilies by cuttings

It's pretty original and non-standard way, proving that lilies can be propagated using any of their parts. In particular, they choose leaves with stem parts, stem segments with a dormant bud, and just individual leaves. General principle reproduction looks like this:

cuttings for planting are selected after flowering. However, for better rooting, you can take cuttings and leaves during the budding period;
the upper part of the massive stem is divided into equal parts with 5-7 leaves;
everything on every plot lower leaves remove, leaving only 2-3 top sheets;
prepared leaves and cuttings are kept in any growth stimulator for 8-12 hours;
planting material is planted in a fertile substrate with good drainage;
deepen the cuttings and leaves by half their length, setting at a slight angle (45-60 degrees);
then the cuttings are watered and covered with cellophane wrap or glass jars;
daily plantings are aired, removing the shelter for 30-40 minutes. Each time the bag is turned inside out or replaced with a new one. The jar is wiped dry daily;
after 1-2 months, on the areas of leaves and stems that are in the ground, baby bulbs will appear, which give roots and put out leaves. They can be separated and transplanted into separate grow containers;
in spring, young bulbs appear on the stems and leaves, which can be planted in open ground.

Reproduction of lilies by bulbs

Lilies can also be propagated by "half-bulbs" - the so-called bulbs. This is the safest growing method for the plant. Bulbules form in the axils of the leaves and on the stem during flowering. Sometimes their number can reach several dozen, but they are formed only on certain varieties of lilies (they are also called "bulbous"), such as Aelita, Kalinka, Pink haze... It is quite simple to determine that the bulb is ready for transplanting - it is easily separated from the stem, and small roots and leaves are already visible on it.

It is necessary to collect the bulbs almost immediately after flowering, because then they fall off, germinate and begin to clog the flower garden. This usually happens in August-September, so you can plant them almost immediately. If you want to plant the bulbs in the spring, then hide them in the refrigerator, sprinkle them with dry sand or sawdust, and store at a temperature of 3-5 ° C.

Before the autumn planting, it is also advisable to stratify the lily bulbs in the refrigerator for 3-4 weeks at a temperature of 3-4 ° C.

Sprouted bulbs can be sown immediately in open ground or in containers to a depth of 2-3 cm, keeping a distance between them of 4-5 cm. The planted bulbs must be watered, mulched with peat chips or leaf humus. High-quality substrate is prepared from coconut fiber, vermicompost and washed coarse sand. To do this, mix 2 parts of vermicompost with 4 parts of coconut fiber and 1 part of sand.

For the winter, it is advisable to cover the bulbs with spruce branches or straw. Although there are cases when they endured frosts down to –30 ° C without any shelter, it is better to play it safe.

Lily shoots appear next spring... Young plants are still very vulnerable, and they need to be regularly watered, removed weeds and fed (for example, with ammonium nitrate or urea at the rate of 2 tablespoons per 1 square meter).

Flowering begins the next year, but it is better to remove the buds - let the one-year-old plants get stronger. But in the third year, the flowers will bloom in full force and delight the eye with bright colors.

what stimulates bulb growth:

most often bulbs appear on young lilies;
compliance with agricultural practices and proper care promote the formation of air bulbs;
damp summer favors the growth of bulbs;
removal of buds (decapitation) provokes the growth of buds in the axils of the stem and leaves;

Lily propagation by seeds

This method can only be considered as experimental. Flowering in this case occurs only at 5-7 years, while the plants may not survive, and they inherit varietal traits only to a small extent. The general landing algorithm looks like this:

sow seeds in a container with drainage in February-March. Prepare the substrate from a mixture of leaf and turf soil, humus and coarse sand in a ratio of 1: 1: 1: 0.5;
use a 3-5 cm layer of expanded clay or gravel as drainage;
the first shoots appear in 15-20 days;
in the phase of one true leaf, cut the seedlings into large containers according to the 5 × 5 cm pattern;
keep the pots in a warm place until winter room temperature, periodically watering and loosening the ground;
for the winter, put the box in a cellar with a temperature of 4-6 ° C, and in the spring, transplant the seedlings to permanent place.

Planting lilies in open ground (rules and planting scheme)

Before planting seedlings in open ground, carefully choose a place to grow them. It should be sunny (in the worst case, in partial shade) and sheltered from the wind. Dig up the soil and remove any remaining roots from other plants. If necessary, get rid of weeds and too tall, but already faded and old plants. Otherwise, they will create shade that will prevent the lilies from growing.

Algorithm for planting lilies in open ground:

before planting, immerse each bulb in 0.2% Fundazol solution for 20 minutes, and then in a growth stimulator for 45-60 minutes;
remove dead scales and shorten the roots to 5 cm;
dig a hole for each plant, the depth of which is equal to three times the diameter of the bulb;
the planting interval also depends on the variety and amount of planting material. Leave a stock of 15-20 cm between lilies of low-growing varieties, and 25-30 cm between tall ones.

But what happens to the bulbs planted shallowly - stem roots appear on them.

Lilies can be planted in one of three ways:

one-line (tape)- keep the distance between the lilies 5-15 cm in one row and 50 cm between the "lines";
two-line (for medium-sized lilies)- leave 15-25 cm between the bulbs, 25 cm between the lines, and 70 cm between the adjacent ribbons (consisting of two lines);
three-line (for undersized lilies)- between bulbs 10-15 cm, between lines - 25 cm, between ribbons - 70 cm.

What to plant next to lilies

The following plants work best with lilies:

azalea;
aster;
beetroot;
geychera;
cloves;
geranium;
dahlias;
bell;
cosmeya;
snapdragon;
poppies;
narcissus;
marigold;
snowdrops;
primrose;
roses;
nigella (nigella);
violet;
fuchsia;
zinnia.

The selected neighbor plant should in any case belong to the low or medium growing varieties.

The best varieties of lilies

A huge number of varieties of lilies are known and it is not easy to determine the best ones in all respects. Let's highlight only some of the most popular and well-known varieties.

Anastasia(Anastasia) -a hybrid variety of lilies with pale pink petals and curled, wavy edges. In cold weather, the flowers become even brighter. Plant height - 90-120 cm.

Black beauty (Black Beauty)- The flowers of these unusual lilies seem to always droop. More than a dozen flowers bloom on each inflorescence. It is enough to cut just one branch to get a luxurious bouquet. The variety is hybrid, winter-hardy, the stems grow up to 190 cm.

Citronella(Citronella)- a bright yellow beauty from the group of tiger lilies will decorate any garden. The petals are strewn with cherry dots. Blooms Citronella, unfortunately, not for long, but it exudes a pleasant aroma and is very resistant to various adverse conditions.

Excelsior(Excelsior)- an oriental hybrid with massive flowers with a diameter of 20 cm, which have a very strong spicy aroma. Suitable for planting in shaded areas and requires shelter only during the first wintering.

Golden stone(Golden stone)- when choosing this variety, remember that the plant is practically odorless. The flowers are lemon-yellow with dense cherry specks. The stem rises to a height of 110 cm.

Scheherazade (Scheherazade)- This flower seems to have come down to us from the Persian carpet from the fairy tales "A Thousand and One Nights". Variegated flowers of amazing color appear on the stems in the second half of summer. The height of hybrid plants reaches 120-180 cm.

Sophie(Sophie) - wine-red with a yellow border, the flowers of this variety are directed straight up. They have a very strong aroma, grow up to almost 180 cm. Lily is resistant to fungal diseases and cold weather.

Top Gun(Top Gun)- such a warlike name bears a delicate and fragrant flower with light purple pink petals and elegant specks. It is suitable for both single and group plantings.

Two some (Tu Sam) - rich dark orange flowers with maroon spots are striking in their brightness. They will successfully fit into the design of any garden, however, they do not smell at all.

White Pixels (White Pixels) - in one plant beauty, grace and perfection are perfectly combined. This lily blooms for a very long time, it is unpretentious and frost-resistant. The stem height reaches 110 cm.

Thanks to a timely transplant, lilies can be kept healthy and attractive for a long time. The signal that the plant should be rejuvenated should be a reduction in the number of peduncles and a decrease in the size of flowers. Do not delay the division and transplantation, and then you will not have problems with lilies.

beholder

In many flower beds, you can find variegated lilies.

They love to breed them, creating entire carpet lawns.

Lilies can be propagated in more than one way:

air bulbs,

scales,

green cuttings,

division of nests,

seeds.

Let's talk about each in detail.

Propagation by air bulbs

Air bulbs are the same bulbs, but they are not formed in the soil, but in the leaf axils. Usually they appear in such varieties as sulfurous, tiger, etc. Bulbs are harvested for a month (in September, until the first days of October), as they mature (they easily leave).

After collecting the lily bulbs, before winter sow them into the prepared groove to a depth of 3-4 cm every 5-10 cm.After a few years, the bulbs ready for planting will grow there.

If it is not possible to plant in the garden, then do it in the planting boxes, filling them with moistened sand. For the winter, the boxes are removed to the balcony or basement, where the temperature does not drop below 0º. In the spring, plant them in the garden, and after 1-2 years, transplant them to a permanent place.

In some types of lilies, the appearance of bulbs can be caused artificially (bulbous, Taiwanese, saffron, umbrella, white). To do this, spud the lily stems with earth, cut the buds and flowers, or bend the stem and cover it with soil.

Lily propagation by scales

Many, it is convenient, quick and easy, but flowering begins no earlier than 3-4 years after planting.

For reproduction, the scales take those that are closest to the bottom of the bulb. Without prejudice to the "health" of the bulbs, expose no more than a third. You can remove the scales in the spring or when transplanting plants in the fall. Some experienced florists this is done successfully throughout the season.

Carefully scrape the soil off the bulbs, being careful not to injure the roots. Remove the onion (but you can not remove it) and slightly pressing on it, break off the scales from the bottom. Discard damaged scales. Disinfect the wounds of the bulb with potassium permanganate and sprinkle with a mixture of crushed charcoal and sulfur. Plant the onion back, and treat the torn off scales with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, then with heteroauxin, dry and powder with crushed coal and sulfur. The scales are kept cool for up to 5 months.

In the spring, lily scales are planted immediately in open ground, deepening by 2/3 and keeping the distance between each other 5-6 cm, 20-25 cm between rows. Mulch with humus and shade. Monitor the moisture content of the soil, avoiding drying and waterlogging, from which the scales can rot.

In autumn, lily scales are planted in planting boxes, filled with soil for seedlings and sand in a ratio of 3: 1. Flakes are inserted into the holes by 2/3 and covered with earth. Cover with a transparent lid and spray the greenhouse every time the soil dries out, maintaining the moisture level. Place the drawer in a warm place out of direct sunlight. When babies appear on the scales in 2-3 months, you need to pick them into separate containers, and in the spring, transplant them into open ground for growing. After 1-2 years, it can be planted in a permanent place.

Reproduction of lilies by green cuttings

When the bulbs of lilies grow slowly, and you want to propagate these beautiful flowers, then they use the method of propagating lilies with green cuttings. To do this, cut off the stem with pruning shears, leaving the bulb in the ground. Disinfect the cut with potassium permanganate and growth agent. Pour vermiculite or clean sand into the planting boxes.

You can plant green cuttings of lilies right away in the garden. The plantings are covered with foil, no matter where they were planted.

If the stem is too long, then make grooves at an angle of 15-20 cm deep and lay the cuttings on them so that their tops are slightly visible on the surface.

Cover with sand, pour from a watering can and after a month, baby bulbs are formed in the soil, which can be separated and planted for growing.

Reproduction of lilies by division

Dividing a nest is simple, but not very productive. To do this, dig a nest with an earthen lump, being careful not to damage the roots and stems, because if half of the roots are damaged, the plant loses its ability to bloom.

Place the nest on the ground, peel it off the ground and use your hands to separate first small, then large bulbs (1 onion - 1 stem). Cull, sort, and grow in light, fertile soil. Remove any bulbs with signs of rotting immediately. Flowering occurs in 2-4 years.

Lily propagation by seeds

This method of breeding is quite troublesome and is usually occupied by breeders who are constantly in search of new varieties of lilies and theirs. But if you're interested, you can try:

In April, dive into separate pots and plant them in a greenhouse, digging along with the pots. Spend a few mullein top dressing, combining with watering. Weak seedlings are left in a greenhouse until next year. At the beginning of summer, the bulbs are planted to a depth of 3-8 cm at a distance of 10-15 cm from each other.

When planting in holes, add some sand and hardwood soil. During the season, spray with a 0.15% solution of potassium permanganate once a week. At the end of September, cover the planting with humus with a layer of 5 cm, and before wintering with dry leaves.

It is better to plant heat-loving varieties of lilies in greenhouses for the winter, covering them with dry leaves and snow, preventing the temperature from rising above 0º.

If the florist notices that it was previously beautiful blooming lilies begin to shrink, then this is the first sign that the plants need to be planted. Usually, 3-6 years after planting (the period depends on the type of lilies), the bulbs become overgrown with children, deplete the soil around them and, as a result, give out ever smaller flowers or stop laying flower buds altogether.

The most optimal time August is considered (in extreme cases, early September), when the bulb increases in size, the scales become fleshy and it is quite ready for transplantation. In addition, before the onset of the autumn cold, there is enough time for the plant to take root well and adapt in a new place.

If the need arises, then the lilies can be transplanted at the time of flowering without any damage to them. However, it should be borne in mind that this method should be chosen only in exceptional cases.

Likewise, do not overuse spring transplants and nest sharing. The bulbs start growing early, and when digging, fragile shoots with flower buds can be easily broken. In this case, the blooming of damaged lilies in summer cannot be expected. If you still need to divide the plant, then it is advisable to dig the nest as early as possible, in April.

With a pitchfork, they carefully take out the overgrown bulbs with children. At the same time, one should take into account the fact that they self-deepen and sometimes are at a depth of 30-40 cm. Large specimens are laid aside for planting on a flower bed, and small ones for growing in a "school" (seedling bed). It is important to disinfect the lilies. To do this, use solutions of Maxim preparations (Topaz, Vitaros) or a dark pink solution of potassium permanganate.

At the new location, it is important to prepare the planting pit well. In the flowerbed where the lilies will be planted, organic matter is introduced (best of all, mature compost or very well-rotted humus in an amount of 10 kg per sq. M.), Complex fertilizers (150 g per sq. M.), Ash (200 g per sq. M.) m.). If the soil is clayey, sand (10 kg per square meter) and lime ( dolomite flour). All ingredients are mixed.

When planting divided bulbs, dig a hole 3-4 times the height of the bulb. Usually it is 20-25 cm. Sand is poured on the bottom with a mound, a bulb is placed on this pillow, carefully spreading the roots, covered with sand, and on top - with a prepared fertile layer. The sand will protect the bottom and scales from decay. After planting, the flower bed is watered abundantly.

It is especially necessary to highlight the snow-white lily (Candidum). It is planted to a depth of no more than 3-4 cm from the surface, since this plant does not form stem supra-bulbous roots. In the fall, a rosette of leaves grows and it is necessarily covered with a layer of fallen leaves.

Small onions - children are planted finely in a special place, where they are grown for 2-3 years until they can form a flower arrow. Lily planting sites are watered in dry times, and when autumn planting mulch for the winter with peat.

Lily bulbs with fairly long shoots are often on sale in autumn, can they be planted in September-October? It is best to refuse to buy such untimely planting material, because the percentage of plant death or delay with flowering for 1-2 years is high. However, if you need to purchase exactly the kind that is offered in the fall, perhaps you can decide to buy. To do this, the shoot is carefully twisted out of the bulb (like a lamp from a cartridge) and planted in the ground, as usual, after pickling it.

Lily - bright flowering plant extraordinary beauty. The perfection and grace of the peculiar shape of the flowers is impressive and mesmerizing. The variety of shades and pleasant aroma make these beautiful flowers stand out from the rest of the flowers. Multiply lilies in several ways.

Instructions

Reproduction by children. It is advisable to propagate in this way in late August or early September. Carefully separate the babies that have formed on the underground part of the stem from mother plant... Plant them in specially prepared soil. After landing in a permanent place, do not forget to moisten the ground.

Reproduction. At about 3-4 years of age, the plant forms a nest of bulbs. Separate a bulb with sufficient root system in mid-August. Please note that lilies severely emaciated. Wait 1-1.5 months for the bulb to gain strength, become dense, large and elastic. This will contribute warm atmosphere, food, and the presence of moisture. Try not to cut the roots. Bulb nests do not always disintegrate easily, so sometimes they have to be divided by force (without resorting to tools). Plant in well-moistened soil, to a depth of 10-15 cm.

Reproduction. Not all varieties reproduce in this way. lilies, but some form stem buds () in the leaf axils. Up to 200 of these bulbs develop on one shoot. To increase the bulbousness of the plant, do not forget to remove faded buds in time and regularly moisten the soil. At the end of August, the bulbs are easily separated from the main stem. Collect them and process in a weak solution of potassium permanganate (about 15-20 minutes). Then plant it in the soil to a depth of 3-5 cm. Be sure to leave a distance of 10-15 cm between the holes. In winter, cover planting with leaves or peat.

Reproduction by bulbous scales. In this way, you can get up to 150 flakes of planting material from one bulb. The most optimal period for this type of reproduction is spring. Choose scales that are large, fleshy, healthy and free of blemishes. Remove the scales from the bulb and process in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Dry them and put them in a clean plastic bag for 1-1.5 months. Store the bag of scales in a dark place at room temperature. Remove the scales in a week before planting so that the bulbs form. Plant the resulting hybrid in boxes, soil or greenhouses. The soil must be well moistened and protected from strong winds and direct sunlight.

Related Videos

By purchasing only one lily bulb in the store, you can get several healthy plants, which will delight you with their flowering next year.

You will need

- lily bulb;
- sphagnum moss;
- sawdust;
- plastic bag;
- box for seedlings;
- nutritious substrate.

Instructions

The most best time for reproduction of lilies with scales - February. It is at this time that excellent planting material can be purchased and the plants will develop sufficiently before planting in the ground. But you can carry out this procedure in the fall.

Break off 2 outer scales from each onion. Put in a pink solution of potassium permanganate or aloe juice for 2 hours, then dry and powder the sections with crushed activated charcoal.

The most economical and convenient way reproduction of lilies is reproduction by scales. In this way, many new seedlings can be obtained that retain the properties of the mother plant.

It happens that garden rodents spoil the lily bulbs, and then, most often, gardeners throw them away. But even spoiled heads can be used for planting, and scales are taken as planting material, which are located over the entire surface of the bulb. In order to get a new plant from one scale, it must be carefully separated, keeping a piece of the bottom at the bottom. Having separated the scales, they must be treated with any fungicidal agent, for example, a furacilin solution or ash. After that, the scales are treated with growth and root stimulants. The planting material prepared in this way must be placed in a special substrate. It can be coconut fiber or sphagnum moss. The substrate is placed in a plastic bag, moistened and flakes are placed there. It is advisable that they do not touch each other. The scales are placed in several layers, shifting them with moss. After filling in the bag, they tie it up.

After 2 months, babies will appear on the scales, which means that they will be ready for planting in the soil. Small onions are planted along with the scales, which are still a nutrient base for them. Landings are sprinkled with soil 1 cm thick. Watering is carried out warm water... The container where the young bulbs were planted is placed closer to the light. After a while, leaves will appear on the surface, but these are not real plants yet, and they are not yet ready for planting in the ground. The next year, after planting the scales, good, strong roots will appear on the bulbs. Such seedlings are planted on garden plot, new beautiful lilies will grow from them.

Up to 15 new plants can be obtained from one scale.

In this way in late August or early September. Carefully separate the babies that have formed on the underground part of the stem from the mother plant. Plant them in specially prepared soil. After landing in a permanent place, do not forget to moisten the ground.

Reproduction by bulbous scales. In this way, you can get up to 150 flakes of planting material from one bulb. The most optimal period for this type of reproduction is spring. Choose scales that are large, fleshy, healthy and free of blemishes. Remove the scales from the bulb and process in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Dry them and put them in a clean plastic bag for 1-1.5 months. Store the bag of scales in a dark place at room temperature. Remove the scales in a week before planting so that the bulbs form. Plant the resulting hybrid in boxes, soil or greenhouses. The soil should be well moistened and protected from strong winds and direct sunlight.

Growing lilies

Lily is a perennial brightly blooming bulbous plant family of liliaceae. Lily has been used in culture for hundreds of years for its beauty, grace and perfect flower shape. Peduncle 0.3-2m high densely covered with leaves of linear or lance-shaped form. Lily flowers can be of various shapes and colors - white, yellow, orange, pink, red and others. Many of them have a pleasant aroma.
It is not for nothing that lilies are considered one of the most popular and beautiful flowers in the world: they have large and fragrant flowers, are less susceptible to diseases than other plants, and most importantly, due to the long growing season, they decorate your garden almost all summer. The large number of varieties of lilies makes breeding them, although not easy, but extremely exciting and rewarding.

Location

Most lilies prefer planting between rows of small shrubs that shade the soil and lower stems. Accompanying plants for the culture of lilies can be ground azaleas and rhododendrons, small species of jasmines, potentilla and, in general, small shrubs that do not give root suckers. Of herbaceous perennials, peons and ash trees (diktamnus) are suitable for this purpose.

It is undesirable to plant lilies close to large trees - ash trees, elm trees, poplars and birches, as the roots of these trees quickly use fertilizers and dry out the soil greatly.

First group - lilies that tolerate a completely open sunny location. Growing these lilies for different purposes possibly in large tracts in open areas.

This group includes the following lilies: saffron, bulbous, Daurian, coral, pretty, Thunberg (all forms), umbrella (all forms), Willmotta and her hybrids, Sestroretskaya, pleasant, Tibetan and its hybrids, white (all forms), Taiwanese (all forms), Zalivsky, long-flowered, Colhedonian, pardal, drooping. Lilies of this group are suitable for cutting flowers and for forcing at different times.

Second group - lilies that cannot stand direct sunlight and midday heat. Many lilies of this group do not lend themselves well to cultivation and reproduction due to their weak winter hardiness, susceptibility to various kinds of diseases and decay of bulbs with high humidity during winter dormancy. Lilies of this group are best grown in conditions close to natural ones, namely, together with shrubs and perennials. They need to be planted near bushes so that the lower part of the lily stems and root system were in the shade given by shrubs and perennials.

The second group includes lilies: Maksimovich, Shovitsa, one-brother, Kesselringa, violet, Martagon with all forms and hybrids, Sargent, Nepalese, Northern Palmyra, Hanson, Canadian, proud, Henry, Ledebura, Tsvetaeva's hybrids, sulfur lily hybrids.

When choosing a site for growing lilies, it is imperative to take into account the microclimatic conditions of the area. Suitable sites for the culture of lilies may be the middle parts of the slopes of hills, gullies, river banks; northern slopes should be avoided.

Reproduction, cultivation and care

Usually lilies are grown in one place without replanting for 3-5 years. During this time, they form nests of bulbs. different ages and magnitudes. If lilies in younger plantings get sick, they must be dug up and transplanted to another place, not adhering to such a long digging frequency. It should also be borne in mind that the fast-breeding lilies of Asian hybrids are transplanted more often, once every 3 years, and the slow-breeding lilies Martagon and Tubular hybrids are less frequent.

The time of transplanting lilies to a new place should coincide with the end of the growing season, when the lily bulbs get stronger after flowering, which in middle lane Russia corresponds to the period from mid-September to early October. In everyday practical floriculture, methods are most often used vegetative propagation lilies.

Reproduction by children

The babies formed on the underground part of the stem are separated from the mother plant during transplantation or after raking off the earth from the stem. The separation and disembarkation of children for growing up is carried out in August.

Bulb propagation

Due to the formation of several buds of renewal by one bulb, 3-4 years after planting in Asian and 5-6 years in Tubular, a whole nest of bulbs forms in its place. Daughter bulbs with an independent root system are separated and planted as independent plants in mid-August. These terms can be shifted to the end of the month or even to September. They are primarily determined by the condition of the bulbs. After the flowering of lilies, the bulbs are severely depleted, lose weight, become loose, the scales become thinner, stick. It should take 1 - 1.5 months after flowering for the bulb to gain strength - to become large, dense and elastic. This process is influenced by all factors: heat, moisture, and nutrition. Under favorable conditions, at the beginning of August, they begin to transplant lilies of the June flowering period (mainly Asian hybrids).

The nests of the bulbs must be dug out, being careful not to cut off the roots, and then shaken off the ground and inspected. Nests usually fall apart, but sometimes they have to be divided with effort. You need to do this with your hands, without the use of tools, after cutting the stems. Those scales that have rusty or brown spots must be removed and destroyed. The roots must be cut by 15 cm, the dead cut off completely. Clean bulbs with roots are treated by etching for 20-30 minutes in a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate. Separated bulbs are planted in pre-prepared soil, which must be watered in dry weather on the eve of planting. Low-growing lilies are planted to a depth of 10-12 cm for large bulbs and 7-8 cm - for small ones, medium-sized - 12-15 and 8-10 cm, respectively, tall ones - 15-20 and 10-12 cm (the depth is indicated to the bottom bulbs). Planting holes should be made 10 cm deeper, since lilies are transplanted with roots, which must be carefully straightened, pouring clean under the bottom of the bulb river sand a layer of 2-3 cm, and then cover with earth. The minimum distances between the bulbs when planting for these groups are respectively equal: for low-growing lilies - 15-20 cm, for medium-sized ones - 20-25 cm, for tall ones - 25-30 cm.

Propagation by buns

A number of lily varieties have the ability to form small stem buds - bulbs in the leaf axils. On one shoot, up to 150-180 of them can develop. Bulbousness of varieties differs in the time of formation of bulbs (before, during and after flowering), their number, size and color (from: light green to dark brown). Removal of buds and high humidity air. Often, roots are not yet separated from the shoots of the buds, and sometimes 1-2 leaves. In late summer - early autumn, the bulbs begin to easily separate from the stem. At this point, they must be collected for subsequent cultivation and in order not to clog the plantings. The collected bulbs must be treated with a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate, keeping in the solution for 20 minutes. Then the collected bulbs are planted for growing in grooves with a depth of 2-3 cm with a distance between rows of 15-20 cm, between bulbs in a row - 5-6 cm.

For the winter, planting bulbs is covered on frozen soil with a layer of 10-15 cm of wood leaves, sawdust or peat. The grown bulbs can be planted in the ground in a permanent place after 1-2 years.

Reproduction by bulbous scales

This method of propagation gives the largest number of planting material (up to 150 or more from one bulb) and is suitable for all species, hybrids and varieties of lilies. This method is based on the ability of the scales separated from the bulb to form small onions. Scaling time for different types lilies are different. The best time for a number of varieties from the Asian hybrids group and for the royal lily (regale) is spring, for Tubular hybrids - the flowering phase. When lilies flake at the optimal time for them, young bulbs are formed earlier and in large numbers. In this way, lilies can be propagated at any time of the year. The best result is obtained when used for reproduction of the outer, largest and most fleshy scales. The scales should be white, healthy, and free from spots. To remove the scales, the bulbs are either dug up (therefore, flaking is often carried out in August, combining it with the transplant of lilies), or they are shoveling the earth off them, but without disturbing the growth of plants, in this way the flaking is carried out in May. Remove up to 1/2 or up to 2/3 of all scales from the bulb. At the same time, the mother bulb continues to grow and develop normally, the quality of its flowering is almost not reduced. The removed scales are washed and treated with a 0.1% solution of potassium permanganate.
After that, you need to dry them, put them in a clean plastic bag, tie it up and place in a dark place, where you keep it for about 1.5 months at room temperature (22-24 ° C). Then it is advisable to place the bags for a month in more cool placewhere the temperature does not exceed 17-18 ° C. They must be refrigerated at 2-4 ° C prior to planting. During this period, bulbs form on the scales. different sizes, in best case - up to 1 cm in diameter. Depending on the season, they are planted in boxes, greenhouses, hotbeds or ridges open ground... The choice of a site for growing lilies must be done carefully. All lilies require protection from strong winds, but stagnation humid air, leading to the defeat of plants with gray rot, is very dangerous, so the site should not only be well protected from the winds, but also sufficiently ventilated.

Regardless of when the lilies are planted (in spring or autumn), the features of the entire complex of agrotechnical measures (site selection, soil preparation, planting, care, warming for the winter) depend primarily on the belonging of the lilies to one or another section: different groups lilies have different requirements for growing conditions. So, Asian hybrids prefer slightly acidic soils and light shading, although they grow well in open sunny places. Tubular hybrids grow better on neutral and slightly alkaline soils, in open sunny areas. Lily Martagon and Oriental hybrids require placement in partial shade. Lilies need a loose, permeable nutritious soil that is free of rhizome weeds. Clayy, waterproof and sandy low-moisture soils are not suitable for lilies.
The site on which it is planned to plant lilies should not be flooded with water, because the bulbs can easily rot and die from stagnant water. Since many lilies belong to forest plants, they are suitable for fertile soil with a large humus layer, emerging from under a deciduous forest. Since lilies are planted for a long time (Asian hybrids for 3-4 years, Tubular - for 6-8 years), soil preparation plays an important role in their culture. Under digging, add (per 1 m2) up to 10 kg of humus, up to 20-50 g of bone meal, 15-20 g of urea, 30-50 g of simple or 20-25 g of double superphosphate, 15-30 g of sulfate potassium. Peat is applied for Asian hybrids, for Tubular soils they are lime, adding lime under the previous crop or in spring. Soil cultivation is carried out to a depth of 35-40 cm.

The planting depth for lilies that form only bulbous roots should not exceed 2-3 cm, counting from the top of the bulb; for forming supra-bulbous (stem) roots - 3 bulb heights. The planting depth is reduced for young bulbs, as well as on heavy soils. Insufficiently winter hardy and more powerful Tubular hybrids are planted to a depth of 15-20 cm. When transplanting, the bulbs and their roots should not be allowed to dry out, this negatively affects the survival rate, overwintering and further growth of plants. The bulbs are planted in a layer of sand (3-4 cm) poured onto the bottom of the hole, which protects the bottoms of the bulbs from decay. After planting, the soil is abundantly watered and mulched.

Planting care

Planting care is usual: weeding, watering, loosening and feeding. For the winter, areas with tubular hybrids and small bulbs are covered over frozen soil with a layer of 15-20 cm of mulching material. In the spring, before the shoots appear, the plants are fed with ammonium nitrate (30-40 g / m2), and after the shoots appear - with full mineral fertilizer at a dose of 40-60 g / m2; the same top dressing is given during the budding period and 1 - 2 weeks after cutting.

Since the supra-bulbous roots of lilies are located in the upper layer of the soil, drying out and overheating negatively affects the development of plants. To avoid drying out and overheating of the supra-bulbous roots, the soil is mulched organic materials or peat with a layer of 3-4 cm.

It is necessary to water at the root, since the moisturizing of the leaves promotes the development of gray rot. For the formation of larger bulbs when growing on planting material, the buds that form are removed from the plants. Lily flowers are cut early in the morning or late in the evening, and at any time in cool, cloudy weather. For the normal development of the bulb, when cutting the inflorescences, at least 1/3 of the length of the stem is left on the plant.

Pruning

The stems of lilies should be cut off, leaving a stump if they are green at the time of dividing, without signs of disease. If the stems are dead, indicating the presence fungal diseases, then after digging the bulbs, carefully unscrew them.

Diseases and pests

Among lilies, the most common fungal diseases are: gray rot (botrytis), fusarium rot of bulbs, is less common, but the most dangerous are viral diseases. Of the pests, the most dangerous are the onion mite, the onion hoverfly, and in the greenhouse - the aphid.