Why gloxinia does not bloom. Why gloxinia does not bloom, what should I do? Gloxinia dry lower leaves

  - A very popular houseplant. But, like any plant, gloxinia has its own secrets, troubles, in a word, there are problems when growing. To avoid them, it is necessary at the first sign of their appearance to try to correct the conditions of gloxinia.

1. Gloxinia did not wake up after wintering

Gloxinia tubers storage location  should be cool and dark. If gloxinia tuber  adult and healthy, then you just have to put it in the light and gradually water it, as its shoots begin to grow. Sometimes gloxinia itself wakes up, and when you get it into the light, it already has an escape. However, in practice it does not always work out as it should be.

Gloxinia does not wake up on time due to the fact that the resting period was too short, less than 4 months. It is possible that the winters were too dry and the tuber overdried. But in any case, gloxinia itself wakes up. Just need patience.

In order not to encounter overdrying of the tuber, gloxinia pots in the winter sometimes need to be slightly watered or sprayed with water. And you can put gloxinia tubers in plastic bags, pouring a little soil or wet moss there. Close or tie the bags tightly. The bag will remain constant humidity, and due to the fact that the bag is transparent, you will have the opportunity to watch gloxinia tubers in winter. At the first appearance of the leaves, you can immediately plant gloxinia in a pot.

If gloxinia did not wake up after winteringthat means they sent too young gloxinia for the winter, who did not have time to form a tuber, or the tuber rotted.

If gloxinia tuber was purchased in a store and after last year's flowering it did not wake up from hibernation, it is possible that the tuber was sold in very poor quality. Many flower growers complain about this particular problem. Outwardly, tubers look quite safe, but in fact it may turn out that they are already old, or infected with some kind of infection or pests. The strength of such tubers is enough only to bloom one season.

Dig a tuber, inspect it: if it is very wrinkled, then most likely it has disappeared. Break it or cut it: the tuber on the cut should be slightly yellowish or pinkish. If this is the case, then dry the slices, sprinkle with crushed charcoal, and can be treated with plain green or fucorcin (raspberry liquid, a strong antiseptic, has an antifungal effect, sold in pharmacies). You can treat the tuber with epin or zircon to increase the vitality of the tuber, stimulate it to shoot.

If the gloxinia tuber is brown on the cut, then most likely it has disappeared. If the brown color is from only one edge, cut off all the rot, process the tuber, as described above, and plant in a new ground.

If you want the purchased tubers to be able to winter without problems, then immediately after acquiring the gloxinia tubers at home, process all the planting material in a solution of potassium permanganate or phytosporin. This treatment aims to keep gloxinia tubers from rot.

The next step is to treat the gloxinia tubers with an actellic or phytoerm. These drugs will help get rid of thrips, spider mites and other pests of indoor plants.

If you have acquired gloxinia in a pot, change the ground and process the tuber. The land that is sold in pots along with plants is very poor.

Perhaps the tuber is already old, and just died. Gloxinia live three to four years. If you greatly value this particular gloxinia variety, try to root the stalk or leaflet in advance.

2. Gloxinia did not have time to form a tuber

Gloxinia Leaves  may appear from too bright lighting. Shade gloxinia, otherwise there will be a sunburn. Stains on gloxinia leaves may appear from excessive watering, as well as if you water too cold water. Gloxinia leaf spotting can cause drafts. Small spots on gloxinia leaves may indicate the presence of pests on the plant. Need insecticide treatment. In addition, gloxinia can be affected by various viral diseases, for example, tomato ring-blot virus.

8. Gloxinia leaves curl

Gloxinia leaf curl perhaps if the room is too dry and hot. However, even with too much humidity, excessive waterlogging of the soil, gloxinia leaves also curl, bend, short pedicels form, or the formation of deformed flowers is observed. Adjust gloxinia watering. Treat gloxinia with an actellic or phytoerm from a spider mite. Twisting the gloxinia leaves can be from an overdose of potash fertilizers.

9. Gloxinia leaves turned red

Gloxinia leaf redness  begins with a lack of phosphorus. Phosphorus starvation leads to the fact that gloxinia generally ceases to bloom. To fix this problem, feed gloxinia with superphosphate or another fertilizer that contains more phosphorus and potassium than nitrogen. For example, diammofosk fertilizer or liquid top dressing containing a set of additional trace elements is suitable for this.

10. Gloxinia dry lower leaves

Gloxinia dry lower leaves  with insufficient air humidity, or vice versa, overflow. Perhaps an infection. Treat with phytosporin or another fungicide. If this happens in the fall, when gloxinia is preparing to retire, then this is normal.

11. Gloxinia does not bloom

Gloxinia does not bloom  due to overfeeding with nitrogen fertilizers. Nitrogen only stimulates the growth of greenery, but slows down flowering. Inadequate lighting, low ambient temperature, low humidity, or insufficient watering can affect flowering delays. Incorrect or too short wintering can affect flowering, as a result of which the tuber did not have time to prepare for the next season. For gloxinia to bloom well next season, it needs a dormant period of four months.

To gloxinia fully bloomed, it just needs good lighting. Gloxinia loves the light! From the moment of their awakening, immediately put pots of gloxinia tubers in places where there is a lot of light, or arrange additional lighting, otherwise the buds may not be planted at all, and if they are planted, they may be few, or the flowers may not fully form, turn out to be a hollow , or not fully revealed.

The size of the pot also plays an important role. For the growth of gloxinia, it is better to choose a small, low and wide pot, rather than a deep one. In a large pot, gloxinia will grow tuber for a long time to the detriment of flowering. For an adult gloxinia tuber, the pot should be about 9-12 cm in diameter. And after the gloxinia begins active growth, it is necessary to fertilize with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

In addition to the pot, gloxinia annually needs a transplant and new fertile land. The earth mixture for gloxinia can be made by yourself: humus, coniferous earth, leafy earth, sand, perlite or hydrogel, peat. But before use, it must be calcined for pests and pathogenic microbes. Sprinkle the soil on a tray and bake it in the oven for 20-30 minutes.

If there is no way to make your own earthen mixture, then you will have to use the store mixture, but more often fertilize.

12. The petioles of gloxinia leaves rot, rot, blacken and die buds

At gloxinia leaf petioles rot, buds rot  due to excessive waterlogging, too acidic soil pH reaction, as well as an excessive amount of nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Change the soil, adjust the watering. In order not to overdo it with nitrogen, use only complex fertilizers, which in addition to nitrogen include phosphorus and potassium. Additionally, do two or three treatments with phytosporin, Maxim or another fungicide to save the gloxinia tuber from decay.

If at gloxinia the buds blacken and die, then, most likely, the wintering was too cold, the soil was too poor and not enough food, strong overflow. Usually, problems with flowering are solved by fertilizing with phosphorus fertilizers and additional lighting. Carry out a fungicide treatment. If the problem is not fixed, then most likely problems with the tuber: it began to disappear.

13. Gloxinia forms an empty flower

initially gloxiniaas usual, buds are laid, sepals open, and inside, instead of a bud, a green pea, empty flower. After a while, the peduncle on which this underdeveloped bud grew, turns brown.

The gloxinia tuber may have been stored at too cold a temperature. Cut this peduncle, and wait for the next peduncles. After a while, see how the new buds open, perhaps everything will normalize without additional intervention. Try a few more sprayings with epin to help the plant relieve stress and help the formation of normal buds.

14. Gloxinia does not fully open buds

Gloxinia does not fully open budsand then turn brown and become soft. This is quite possible if there are too many buds on gloxinia, and it does not have enough fertilizing, it simply cannot overpower flowering. In this way, gloxinia itself regulates its flowering. This may be a varietal feature.

It is possible that it bloomed too sooner or later, when there is a short daylight and it simply does not have enough light. Usually, this is observed during the off-season.

Under-disclosure of buds may result from an attack of a spider mite or thrips. Spend insecticide treatments.

15. Gloxinia has dried buds

Gloxinia has dried buds  due to too dry air, high air temperature. If the summer is very hot, spray gloxinia. Hang a damp sheet on the window. Try feeding phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

16. Gloxinia began to fade all the leaves

If the gloxinia began to fade leaves  in autumn, this means that gloxinia is preparing for wintering. Reduce watering to a minimum. Wait until gloxinia completely withers, cut off the top of the shoots, leave only a small stump and send the gloxinia tuber for wintering. It is possible in the same pot, it is possible in a plastic bag, as was described in problem 1.

If gloxinia began to fade leaves during the growing season, then, most likely, problems with the tuber. From too much waterlogging, he rotted. Dig urgently, cut the affected leaves, treat the tuber with fungicides and plant in fresh soil.

17. How to make gloxinia blossom again

If your gloxinia has bloomed and no longer forms peduncles, and you want make gloxinia blossom again, cut it to 2-3 pairs of leaves. In 1.5-2 months, gloxinia will grow a new stem, and your favorite gloxinia will bloom again. It is possible to stimulate repeated flowering by top dressing with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.

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Gloxinia (or synningia) is one of the most beautiful and beloved plants grown at home. With sufficient unpretentiousness, many gardeners often have a question as to why gloxinia does not bloom.

An unusual perennial related to tuberous flowers was imported from Latin America. Gloxinia owes its name to the Alsatian botanist Benjamin Peter Gloksin. The second name of Sinningia came from the name of another scientist - botanist from Boston University Wilhelm Sining, who was involved in the selection of gloxinia and the development of its new hybrid forms.

It was thanks to his efforts that home gloxinia was obtained, which is now grown by many of her admirers. Sinningia is represented by many different varieties. Their flowers are the most beautiful velvet bells of amazing shapes and colors - elongated and short from pale white and pink to dark red and purple. There are also flowers in which several colors are combined with each other.

Having become the happy owner of gloxinia, you may encounter the fact that she is in no hurry to please her flowering at home. What to do in such cases, this article will tell.

Reasons why gloxinia does not bloom

The main factors due to which gloxinia does not bloom include the following:

• middle-aged tuber;
• tuber damage by various infections;
• excess fertilizer;
• contaminated soil;
• insufficient lighting along with high ambient temperatures;
• unbalanced fertilizer input;
• inappropriate temperature conditions;
• lack of humidity;
• incorrect landing;
• improper care.

What to do if gloxinia does not bloom.  To answer the question of the lack of flowering in gloxinia, each of the reasons should be considered separately.

Middle-aged tuber

Such a situation is likely that when buying gloxinia, an unscrupulous seller sold an old tuber. It is possible the plant was purchased on a spontaneous market and is quite old. In such cases, in order for the exotic beauty to bloom, it must be watered more abundantly than young plants. It will not be superfluous to take care of the propagation of the flower, resulting in the same exact, but younger plant.

Tuber damage or excess fertilizer

In this situation, extracting the tuber from the earthen coma and treating it with fungicides can help. You can also place the syningia tuber in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for thirty minutes, then dry and re-plant in the soil prepared for it, which should be new.

Contaminated soil

Gloxinia refuses to bloom due to the presence of too many pests in the ground. The flower begins to fade away, and this cannot but affect the flowering. If this is precisely the reason for the disease, then you can help her recover by transplanting into a new healthy soil. The composition of the soil is also important.

   For gloxinia, a substrate with the presence of coniferous and leafy soil is best suited. Peat crumb and greenhouse land mixed with river sand are added there.

In general, the soil should be loose, nutritious, light (for free penetration of air and water into it). Soil can not be changed if it meets the above criteria. However, it must necessarily be calcined in the oven for thirty minutes. And in a completely cooled substrate transplant the plant.

Inadequate lighting along with high temperature

Gloxinia is very sensitive and demanding on lighting. For this reason, the plant will immediately respond to deficiencies in the supply of light. It is especially harmful for gloxinia when insufficient lighting is combined with high air temperature. This can happen both in the warm and cold season.

In the summer, the gloxinia pot may be located in a dimly lit area of \u200b\u200bthe house, however, the air temperature will be high. In the winter months, the sun is a rare “guest” in the windows even during the day. Moreover, it gets dark on the street early.

Along with this, plants suffer from high temperature during the heating season, being close to radiators. In both cases, the gloxinia stem is very elongated, becoming thin and weak. Flowering in such conditions can be very delayed, and possibly not occur at all.

To avoid this problem, you should keep your pet in a bright place, monitor the temperature regime and, if necessary, illuminate the flower in the cold season with fluorescent lamps.

Unbalanced fertilizer input

Gloxinia may not bloom due to the fact that the host spends too active overfeeding with fertilizers. Perhaps, there is a feeding with unsuitable compounds for this type of plant. However, the reason may lie in the lack of additional nutrition, when gloxinia is undernourished or does not receive the necessary nutrition for it. In such cases, the flower will signal this with yellowed leaves and, accordingly, stunted flowering or its complete absence.

Flowering gloxinia directly depends on proper and regular feeding. Gloxinia is fertilized from the first days of April and continues until mid-August with a frequency of once a week.

To do this, use fertilizers intended for gloxinia, containing a sufficient amount of phosphorus and potassium. Nitrogen fertilizers are not suitable for the flower. An excess of the component leads to the formation of a large outlet, however, the flowers are small and ugly.

It is also necessary to avoid an overabundance of phosphorus fertilizers, they can contribute to too rapid and short flowering. Top dressing is applied only to moistened soil. Otherwise, you can burn the roots. Do not fertilize the plants that have just been transplanted, as well as weakened. Gloxinia is not fed during the preparation for winter holidays, during the sleep period itself and some time after waking up.

Inappropriate temperature

Synningia is thermophilic; therefore, they consider the optimum temperature for its comfortable content to be +18 .. + 22 ° C. An exception is the period of tuber germination. At this time, the temperature should be +25 ° C. Thus, new shoots appear on the tuber faster. At a higher temperature, the plant ceases to develop, the tuber overheats, the leaves become sluggish, the buds do not bloom, and the already opened flowers wither.

Moving away from high temperature, gloxinia must be rearranged in a shaded place. Lowering the temperature at which the gloxinia stops growing is equally harmful, the roots can become too cold and rot, the leaves turn yellow and black, the buds fall off without opening. In such cases, the flower pot is moved to a warmer place.

Low humidity

During growth and flowering, high humidity is very beneficial for synningia. To comply with this condition, humidify the air around the plant with a spray gun. A gloxinia pot can also be placed on a surface with wet pebbles. Under conditions of dry air, the leaves of the syningia turn yellow, twist into tubules, it does not bloom or discards buds that have already formed.

Gloxinia should be sprayed only with water at room temperature, avoiding moisture directly on the leaves and stem. Watering the syringia with warm water, evenly distributing moisture on the surface of the soil, preventing water from entering the tuber itself, leaves and buds.

Incorrect landing

The most common mistake when planting gloxinia is to plant a tuber in a very large pot. In such a situation, the plant will throw all its strength into increasing the size of the tuber, and flowering will not occur.

When planting gloxinia, wide and shallow containers are used, since its root system is superficial and develops for the most part in width, and not in depth. The pot is selected according to the size of the tuber - a larger container for a larger tuber.

Improper care

The most common reason for the lack of treasured flowering gloxinia is improper care of it. The main points of proper and incorrect care for this plant have already been discussed above. Subject to all the rules of maintenance, gloxinia blooms all summer. As a rule, this happens twice a year with a short break between each flowering. However, there are some nuances here - an improperly processed plant after the first flowering is unlikely to bloom again.

   In order for gloxinia to bloom again at home, immediately after the first flowering, it is necessary to cut the stem, leaving a few lower leaves. Active feeding should continue at this time.

Of the several sprouted stepchildren you need to choose and leave only viable. On them, new buds are formed in the future, which will certainly bloom.

After the second flowering, gloxinia is very important to rest for several months. It is necessary that the tuber "fall asleep." In order to achieve this, immediately after the second flowering, watering is gradually reduced, and the light intensity in the fall will decrease by itself. In such conditions, the gloxinia leaves dry out, after which they are completely removed.

The tuber is dug out of the soil, treated with a fungicidal solution for better storage. Then the slightly dried tuber is mixed with sawdust and placed in a dark and cool place. Storage temperature should be between +8 .. + 15 ° C. Such resting tubers are checked a couple of times a month, slightly moisturizing.

When the "rest" is organized correctly, gloxinia will wake up in January-February. It is planted in fresh soil. From this period, Sinningia will again prepare for its wonderful flowering.

In cases when gloxinia wakes up prematurely, the young sprouts that have appeared are removed, and the tuber is again sent to "rest". Winter short daylight still does not allow gloxinia to fully develop at home.

Gloxinia is a perennial plant of the Gesneriaceae family. Has a tuberous root system. The stalk is short erect or long curved, smooth or covered with hairs. The leaves are large oval, velvety, saturated green. The flowers are bell-shaped, simple or double. The color of the flowers can be red, white, pink, purple, tiger. Gloxinia seeds are very small. Gloxinia hails from South America. The second name of the plant is synningia.

Gloxinia begins to bloom in March. Flowering lasts up to three months. The flowers of the plant are single, emerging from the sinuses, large, oblong, velvety. They resemble a bell in shape. Peduncles are soft, so large tall bells can be drooping. The diameter of the flowers is 8-12 centimeters. The buds have 4 stamens. Nectar annular or absent. The corolla is tubular, consists of round petals with a corrugated edge, located in one or more rows.

The corolla can be plain: white, purple, red, raspberry or cream. It can be two-tone, have a border, contrasting specks or spots. The base and edges of the petals most often have different colors. Some, instead of the open corolla, have an elongated tube and small bent petals. On one plant, from 8 to 40 buds can form.

Causes of common problems and their solution

Why does gloxinia not completely open the buds, then turn brown and soft?

Causes:

• the plant has too many buds with a lack of fertilizing;
• soil depletion;
• lack or excess of lighting;
• incorrect temperature conditions;
• low humidity;
• pests: spider mites or thrips.

Decision:

Blacken

The buds wither without blooming and turn black and dry.

Causes:

• wintering of tubers in a too cold room;
• excessively dry air;
• depleted soil;
• dry soil or too frequent moistening of the soil.

Decision:

1. Inspect the gloxinia tuber and treat it with Epin - a drug that has an anti-stress effect.
2. Increase indoor humidity.
3. In the heat to shade the plant, protecting from direct sunlight.
4. Replace depleted soil with fresh soil.
5. To sustain intervals between waterings.
6. To establish timely moistening of the soil, avoiding overdrying of an earthen coma.

The buds dry without blooming.

Causes:

Decision:

1. Raise the humidity level in the room.
2. Organize ventilation, avoiding drafts.
3. Set the lighting mode.
4. Feed the plant with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
5. Adjust watering.
6. The soil should be loose and slightly moist.

Empty inside

Expanding, the sepals show a small green pea instead of a bud. After a while, the peduncle turns brown. The undeveloped bud falls off.

Cause:

• cold wintering;
• stress from storage at too low a temperature.

Decision:

1. Remove the defective bud by carefully trimming the peduncle.
2. After a while, a new bud will form.
3. A full flower should open.
4. Carry out several sprays of Epin according to the instructions on the package.

IMPORTANT: Do not confuse dry black buds with rotting ones. When rotted, the bud becomes dark brown or black, but remains soft and moist.

Causes:

Decision:

1. Limit watering for several days so that the substrate dries.
2. Water gloxinia only through a pallet.
3. Make sure that the ground is not too wet, but do not allow drying.
4. In acidic soil, you need to transplant the plant with a complete replacement of the soil mixture.
5. Use only complex fertilizers, which, in addition to nitrogen, include phosphorus and potassium. Carry out two or three treatments with Fitosporin, Maxim or another fungicide to prevent tuber decay. Process the instance of Epin.
6. If after the measures taken the problem does not go away, the tuber most likely began to disappear. In this case, you need to carefully examine it.
7. Brown spots trimmed with a sharp knife to a healthy tissue.
8. Treat the slice with powdered activated or charcoal. Place the tuber in a new pot containing calcined drainage and a new soil mixture.

Preventative measures

In order for gloxinia to bloom safely, it is necessary to systematically prevent possible problems:

• Keep track of soil moisture, preventing excessive moisture and drying out.
• Apply good drainage.
• Use warm water for irrigation.
• Prevent water from entering leaves, buds and flowers. Do not spray the plant.
• It is better to water gloxinia through the pan.
• Sometimes spray the air around the plant.
•   every spring to prevent soil depletion.
• Use hydrogel to prevent drying of the substrate.
• Apply complex top dressing.
• Provide adequate lighting without direct sunlight.
• Keep gloxinia in a warm room, keep away from drafts.
• Inspect the plant regularly.
• Systematically apply Epin or Zircon to maintain gloxinia immunity.

With proper care, gloxinia blooms from spring to early fall.. To ensure healthy flowering, certain conditions must be met:

To gloxinia bloomed again, the stem after flowering is cut, leaving a few pairs of lower leaves. From the sinuses stepchildren grow. Only the most powerful of them should be left. At this time, it is important to feed with a high concentration of nitrogen. These procedures will stimulate the growth of new leaflets. When buds appear, fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus must be applied. Repeated flowering is always less magnificent than the first.

ATTENTION: The age of gloxinia must be considered. The older the plant, the less it blooms.

Conclusion

In the process, it is important to remember the need for systematic disease prevention.. If the flower does not open or darkens, it is immediately necessary to establish the cause and proceed to measures to save the plant.

Observing all the rules of care, you can achieve abundant flowering gloxinia. Good luck with home gardening!

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Gloxinia (lat. Gloxinia) is a tuberous perennial that is grown mainly in pots. However, there are varieties suitable for planting in open ground. The homeland of gloxinia (you can still find the name "syningia") are the tropics and subtropics of Asia and America. Nevertheless, these plants with bright flowers get along well on our windowsills. Read about how to care for gloxinia, when to transplant and prepare for wintering.

Gloxinia blooms in the summer, and sometimes twice a year, after which the aerial part dies. The flower needs a dormant period, which occurs in the winter.

Temperature and lighting

Gloxinia needs sufficient diffused lighting for 12-14 hours a day. Placing a flower on sunny windows requires shading, as direct UV rays leave burns on the leaves. On the northern windows of gloxinia, stems and peduncles are stretched due to lack of light, and you can not wait for the second flowering in the year. To form a neat bush, gloxinia must be turned once a week to the other side to the light source.

The optimum air temperature for gloxinia is 18-22 ° C during the growing season. When the flower sprouts tubers, it is necessary to increase it to 25 degrees, and during the dormant period - decrease to 10-14 ° C. Drafts should be excluded. Elevated temperatures lead to overheating of the root system - gloxinia stops developing, leaves wither, flowers do not open or fall off quickly. At low temperatures, the plant also suffers - the leaves turn black and yellow, the buds wither.

Soil and watering

Gloxinia loves moisture. In a dry room, the leaves begin to curl, and the buds may not open. You can not spray the fluffy leaves of the plant, but you can put water trays next to it. During the growing season, gloxinia should be watered abundantly, eliminating the ingress of water on leaves and a rosette. Between watering the top layer of the earth should dry.

When the flowering period ends in late August, watering should be slightly reduced. After this, gloxinia will begin to prepare for the rest period and wither - then you need to water even less often. The roots of gloxinia are thin and superficial, so wide pots, but very deep ones, are chosen for them. The best soil for a flower can be prepared independently: mix sheet and peat soil with river sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1. Suitable purchased primer for violets.

Gloxinia fertilizer

Outdoor gloxinia cultivation

From April to early August gloxinia needs to be fed weekly. Fertilizer suitable for flowering plants containing more potassium and phosphorus than nitrogen. The use of humic acids gives a good effect. Fertilizers can be combined with the introduction of growth stimulants, but not with fungicides.

It is important not to overfeed the plant, since such gloxinia will rot the buds and cuttings will not root well. It is better to prepare a weaker solution than prescribed on the packaging with fertilizer. You should not fertilize sick, weakened, recently transplanted flowers, as well as those in rest. If healthy gloxinia is not fertilized at all, the plant will develop worse, the flowers will turn pale and become smaller.

Transfer

Each spring, with a new germination of tubers, they are transplanted into new soil. In spring, the tubers are removed, even if stored in the ground, cleaned of old roots, in addition to the largest, and planted in fresh soil. The distance between the tuber and the walls of the pot should be 3-4 cm. It is better to plant immediately after the appearance of the sprout. Before this, it is possible to treat with a fungicide solution to exclude the development of fungal diseases.

Before planting, the tuber should be inspected for damage. If there are rotten areas, they are removed with a sharp clean blade, and the places of the sections are sprinkled with crushed charcoal. It happens that after wintering the tuber became lethargic and shriveled. In this case, you can try to restore it.

• Soak in a solution of epin or zircon. To prepare it, 10 drops are dissolved in 200 ml of boiled water at room temperature. A day later, the tuber is planted in the ground.
• Soft and shriveled tuber wrap for 2-3 days in a damp cloth. If, after the lapse of time, it became hard - plant in the ground.
• You can moisten vermiculite with the above solution and place the tuber in it for 1-2 days. If it has not germinated, then it is buried as a whole, and if there is a germ, then it is left on the surface.

Before landing at the bottom of the pot you need to put a drainage layer of 1-2 cm - it can be polystyrene, expanded clay. Then fill the container with soil, and in the center place the tuber, 2/3 deepening into the ground. Now cover the pot with cellophane or a transparent container and put in a warm place for germination.

Once a day, you need to air the greenhouse for 10-15 minutes. With the advent of the first pair of leaves, the greenhouse can be covered only at night, and after 4 days completely removed. After the stem grows, the tuber should be covered with soil 1 cm.

When gloxinia faded

After the flowering period ends, the stem dies. It is important to let the plant complete this process on its own. Caring for gloxinia after flowering is simple: when the leaves fade, watering is reduced, and when the upper part dries, they stop it at all.

Now the tuber can be dug up or left to be stored in a pot, providing an air temperature of 10-14 degrees. If gloxinia is still young and has not grown a tuber of sufficient size, it does not need a winter dormant period.

If gloxinia has bloomed in early summer, you can bloom it again. To do this, after flowering is completed, the stem and leaves are cut, leaving only a couple of lower ones. In their sinuses stepsons are formed. You need to leave the strongest, and remove the rest. During this period, top dressing with nitrogen for growth is introduced, and with the appearance of buds, a phosphorus-potassium complex is introduced. The second flowering will be less lush.

Outdoor cultivation

Gloxinia can be planted in the garden during the summer. For this, large tubers with a diameter of 8-10 cm are selected. Planting is performed when the air temperature is stable at 18-20 degrees. Choose a wet shaded area protected from the wind. In open ground, plants grow larger than in pots, so they need to be planted at a sufficient distance from each other. Before frosts, you need to dig up the tubers for storage, without waiting for the natural drying of the stem.

Growing difficulties

Due to errors in the conditions of gloxinia, they are attacked by pests. If gloxinia leaves become thicker, deformed, twist around the edges - most likely, the plant is affected by a cyclamen tick.

When damaged by a spider mite, white dots appear on the leaves, subsequently turning into yellow-brown spots. When thrips settles on gloxinia, the leaves acquire a silvery shade, white touches and dots appear on them. Gradually they turn brown and dry, and their edges are wrapped up.

Tubers and root system often rot from excess watering. In this case, the leaves lose turgor, which does not recover after watering. In this case, you can save the plant only by re-rooting the top. The tuber must be removed and inspected, cut out the rot, soaked in a fungicide solution and try to germinate again. Buds may not bloom due to drafts and cold watering.

Root rot and stem

Gloxinia is susceptible to fungal diseases. Their development is facilitated by excessive watering, maintenance in a cold and damp room, the use of contaminated soil or planting material. Watery dark spots appear on the leaves, the stem becomes soft. You can save the plant by removing all infected parts and further processing with preparations such as "Maxim", "Fitosporin".

Bloom

Gloxinia blooms in late spring and early summer. The flowers are oblong, large, sometimes they may have an irregular shape, be drooping. Depending on the variety, gloxinia flowers are blue, pink, white, purple, red, tiger, two-tone. If the plant fades in late summer or early fall, it will prepare for wintering. And if gloxinia has bloomed earlier, it is quite possible to achieve repeated flowering.

Breeding

Gloxiniae are easy to reproduce. This can be done with the help of a leaf (as part of it, as well as a handle), seeds, peduncle, process, and also by dividing the tuber.

Leaf Reproduction

Propagation of gloxinia by cuttings is the most popular method. A young leaf with a small stalk up to 3 cm is best rooted in boiled water and a container of dark glass. To avoid decay, an activated carbon tablet is placed in the water.

Cuttings root and immediately in the soil. To do this, fill the tank with nutrient soil, and in the center make a hole with river sand. The stalk is fixed in it and covered with a transparent container or polyethylene from above to create a mini-greenhouse. It can be removed with the formation of tubers - usually this happens after a month.

Reproduction gloxinia parts of a leaf plate

You can propagate and part of the sheet. To do this, take a large sheet and make incisions along the veins. The sheet is placed on the ground, pressed a little and covered with a greenhouse. So you can get a few young children gloxinia, but the tubers will be smaller than when rooting the cuttings.

Seed propagation

For breeding take seeds that were collected less than 3 years ago. They are sown in the cold season - from November to February. To do this, take a wide shallow container, cover it with leafy soil and sow the seeds without sprinkling them with anything on top. The container is covered with a transparent material and kept in a bright room with a temperature of 22 degrees.

When the first 2 leaves grow in sprouts, gloxinia are planted at a distance of 2 cm from each other. And when the seedlings grow to 3 leaves, they are planted by 5 cm. After these leaves develop well, the plants are planted by 10 cm, but again in a common bowl. Finally, gloxinia can be planted in pots only when the bushes began to touch each other.

Peduncle propagation

When gloxinia fades, you need to cut the peduncle and put it on the root in water. After regrowth, the roots do the same with him as with the cuttings.

Propagation by stepsons

In the spring, several sprouts form on the tuber. You can root all or only the strongest. Such processes are easily rooted in water, and then planted in the ground.

Tuber division

The grown tuber in the spring is cut into pieces with 1-2 sprouts on each. Slices are sprinkled with crushed coal, after which the delenki are planted in separate pots and sprouted in the same way as a regular tuber after wintering. Two days after planting, the soil is not moistened. The method is risky for valuable varieties, since in places of fresh cuts there is a high risk of developing fungal infections and, as a result, loss of sprouts.

Why does not bloom

The lack of flowering in gloxinia can be caused by several reasons:

Observing all the rules of care, you can achieve magnificent flowering. And to make the period last longer, faded peduncles must be removed immediately.

Purchase

In the flower shop you can buy gloxinia seeds as well as tubers or an established flowering plant. The price usually depends on the variety. Among the lovers of these flowers, the site “Alyonushkina gloxinia” is popular - there you can buy both adult plants and cuttings, tubers of your favorite varieties. On average, you can buy gloxinia in the range of 100-200 rubles per pc.

If you choose a tuber in the store, inspect it carefully. It should be solid and solid, not have dark rotted areas, reach 3-4 cm in diameter. In its upper part there is a small depression with sleeping kidneys. If they are awakened, then you can see small hairy shoots.

When buying an adult plant, carefully inspect the leaves for pests. The flower should look healthy, not have suspicious spots, with elastic monophonic leaves. Choosing the right plant and providing it with proper care, you will get a bright bouquet on the windowsill.

Gloxinia is one of the most popular plants that are grown indoors. Gloxinia is so beautiful and unusual that, looking at its flowers, it is impossible to take your eyes off! The plant blooms almost all summer, decorating our homes with its lovely flowers.

It also happens that after a winter holiday the plant for some reason feels bad (the stems and leaves have a yellow hue) and do not bloom in any way, or after the first flowering the second one does not come and already year after year.

Why does gloxinia not bloom?

• The main reason a plant does not give color is improper care.
• If you bought a plant, then, perhaps, due to the untidiness of the sellers, you slipped an old tuber and you need to water the plant more abundantly.
• Perhaps the tuber is infected or too crammed with various chemicals, it’s not that it will bloom, it is difficult for it to even grow.
• The plant is sick, as there are many pests in the ground.
• When there is not enough light in the room, and the air temperature is constantly high, the plant begins to stretch its stems up and flowering occurs much later than usual or it does not bloom at all. In this case, you need to put the pot with gloxinia in a bright place, the temperature in the room should be significantly reduced.
• When there is too much fertilizer or, conversely, little, the plant can grow poorly, turn yellow from time to time and bloom poorly.
• The second flowering does not occur most often from the fact that after the first flowering the plant was improperly processed.
• When the flowers begin to curl after flowering, this means that gloxinia is in the wrong place, it is drawn by draft. Perhaps the room has a low air temperature and the plant just freezes.
• With low humidity, the plant begins to bloom much later.
• The plant is improperly planted. Most housewives mistakenly believe that in order for the plant to be lush, it needs a large and deep pot. This is wrong, in this case the tuber grows, and the flowering will be sluggish and weak.

What to do?

Try to organize the plant the right dormant period. For about four months, the plant should be at rest. This means that it needs to be placed in a cool place and watered a little from time to time.

After the gloxinia tubers are transplanted, they need regular and plentiful watering. It is necessary to place the plant so that as much sunlight as possible falls on it. The room should be moderately humid, warm. Drafts and sharp changes in temperature should not be.

The diameter of the flower pot should not exceed 12 dm. The height of the pot should be about 10 cm. Only then will there be enough room for the tuber, and the plant itself will grow lush and flowering will pass, as expected. Do not forget to transplant tubers after winter, otherwise growth in the old land will entail a modest flowering.

If you do not take into account all these important points, the flower may begin to form buds, but they will be small and there will be few. Most of them will turn out to be a hollow or will not be able to fully open.