Devices for sharpening knives with your own hands: views and drawings. How to make a ceramic grindstone and sharpen a knife on it with your own hands Do-it-yourself electric knife

Every housewife sooner or later begins to dull the knives with which she cuts bread, vegetables or butchers meat. Using a dull knife is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. At any time, it can break off the cut product and cause injury. Therefore, periodically the tool should be sharpened, using a special device for sharpening knives.

Such sharpeners in a wide range are available in stores. But for one reason or another, they do not always suit the consumer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, having previously studied the types of stones for sharpening, the features of the tool and the proposed drawings.

Sharpening knives - prerequisites

For efficient and long-lasting knife operation the most important factor when sharpening it is blade angle. In the process of sharpening, it is necessary to restore the previously set angle, which will fully comply with technological standards and quickly, freely and efficiently cut the material.

For each blade, its optimal angle is selected:

  • for a razor and a scalpel, the sharpening angle should be 10-15 degrees;
  • knives for cutting bread, fruits and vegetables are sharpened at an angle of 15-20 degrees;
  • multifunctional knives for various products are processed at an angle of 20–25 degrees;
  • hunting and hiking knives - at an angle of 25-30 degrees;
  • knives for cutting hard materials - at 30-40 degrees.

Without a special device, it is difficult to sharpen the blade at the right angle. Holding the knife with your hands, it is quite difficult to provide required angle of inclination cutting tool. To facilitate this process, there are special devices that you can make with your own hands. Their designs are quite simple, and the production itself will take not so much time.

There are many types of sharpeners for knives, among which you can choose the one that best suits your needs.

All devices consist of two parts:

  • a bar of abrasive material;
  • stop for attaching a knife.

As a bar, you can use ready-made special stones or make it yourself.

Sharpening stones - types and manufacture

On sale you can find several types of stones:

    Aquatic tools. When working with them, water is used, which saves the surface of the stone.

    Oil the stone resembles water in structure and shape, but its surface is the most oily.

    Natural instruments are made from natural stones undergoing industrial processing.

    artificial stones are made from non-natural components.

    Rubber tools can also be found on sale, but working on them is not very convenient.

For self-manufacturing abrasive bar, you can use small rectangular glass plates and a thickness of 4-5 millimeters. On the surface of the plates using double-sided adhesive tape, you need to stick different grain sizes sandpaper. The cost of such bars will turn out to be quite small, and sandpaper can be replaced at any time.

However, when using a glass bar, you should be very carefully tighten the nuts otherwise the glass may crack. In addition, no water is used in its application, so the abrasive wears out quickly. For the same reason, when sharpening knives, fast movements should be avoided, which can lead to overheating of the material, and, therefore, to loss of blade properties.

Tool for sharpening wood blocks

It is enough just to make a sharpening tool from two wooden and two abrasive bars, which should be the same size.

For greater stability of the sharpener to its lower surface, it is recommended attach a piece of rubber.

Do-it-yourself sharpener from mounting brackets

The Lansky sharpener is taken as the basis for such a device, the drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet.

  • metal plates measuring 4x11 centimeters;
  • standard aluminum corners;
  • metal rods about 15 centimeters long;
  • a set of nuts and bolts;
  • grinder with a vise or file;
  • file.

Instead of a grinder, you can use a file, since this tool is only needed for grinding sharp corners from the corners and cleaning the places where the metal is cut.

Steps for making a sharpener:

  1. According to the drawing, markings are made for future holes in the plates.
  2. Holes are drilled and threaded into them.
  3. With the help of a file, everything is rounded sharp corners and edges. This will allow you to comfortably use the made knife.
  4. Holes are made in the corner in accordance with the drawing.
  5. The hole for the spoke support is expanded with a needle file.
  6. The holes for the studs are threaded.
  7. The rods are inserted into the extreme holes and fixed with nuts of the appropriate diameter (M6).
  8. An M8 bolt is screwed into a wider hole, the length of which should be about 14 centimeters. A wing nut must first be screwed onto it, on top of which two ordinary nuts are screwed. The bolt in the structure will be used as a support post.
  9. Bolts are attached to the remaining holes, with which the knife will be clamped.
  10. Nuts are screwed onto the ends of the rods, a corner is strung, which is fixed with nuts. By lowering or raising the rods, it will be possible to adjust the sharpening angle.
  11. From a thin metal rod in the shape of the letter G, a rod with an M6 thread, two holders and a wing nut, a device is assembled that will hold the stone for sharpening. The end holder should be with a through hole for the knitting needle.

Such a device for sharpening knives has a fairly wide range of degrees of pressure angle and is most convenient to use.

Massive sharpener with stand

With your own hands, you can simulate a knife sharpener from Apex, the drawings of which are easy to find on the Internet. Such a knife sharpener is presented in the form of a stand, on which a platform is installed at an angle, and a support for the end of the nozzle in the form of a rod is placed on the side. This is very convenient fixture, with which you can sharpen any cutting tools very high quality.

Required materials and tools:

Stages of work:

The angle of sharpening on such a device adjustable with bar and lamb, which fixes the part at the desired height.

Each of the described devices has its own advantages and disadvantages. When choosing a suitable option, you need to proceed from your needs and skills in such work that you will need to do with your own hands.

Such a device cannot be called a machine (in the full sense of the word). However, in the household, the thing is necessary, and sometimes it is simply irreplaceable. The device is so simple that anyone can assemble a grinder with their own hands.

First you need to decide for what purposes this machine is needed, and what we will sharpen - knives or something else. Depending on the diameter of the grinding wheels to be used, the engine power is also selected. On the Internet, all articles recommend using an engine from an old washing machine. This is the basis of the entire machine. However, you need to understand that no matter what mechanism the engine is used from, its power of 1 - 1.5 kW will be quite enough for domestic use.

How to assemble the machine

  • a support (platform) for the engine is selected. It must be securely fastened, since when it is turned on, the rotor develops sufficiently large revolutions. It is recommended to fasten with bolts with a diameter of at least 8 mm. The location of the engine should take into account the convenience of using the machine and replacing the grinding wheel;
  • connection is best done through a magnetic starter. It is assumed that the power supply is single-phase 220 V. It is necessary to calculate the correspondence between the engine power and the one suitable for the outlet. It is better to supply power directly from the circuit breaker through a separate line.
  • the main problem is how to attach the emery wheel to the motor shaft. Circles are different, and the diameters of its hole and the motor shaft may not match. In this case, you will have to pick up the sleeve, and already plant a stone on it. On the shaft is necessary. No matter how the circle is attached to the rotor, with or without a sleeve, it must be fixed;
  • installation over a stone protective cover. It is made of thin sheet iron or thick plexiglass on a special holder.

Assembly order of the grinder

Nut - washer - grindstone - washer (if a sleeve is installed, then one of its edges plays the role of a second washer) - nut (tightening) - another nut (fixing).

Particular attention should be paid to connecting the starter - they are different designs. We need it to have at least three normally open (NO) contacts. Its winding is connected to the phase line through two series-connected buttons. One - with normally closed contacts (NC), the other - with NO. A button with HP contacts will be a book. "On", respectively, the second - "Off". Book. "On" is placed in parallel with one pair of NO contacts of the starter.

By pressing the book "On" voltage is applied to the winding, and the starter contacts close. One of their pair shunts the book. "On", and when it is released, the voltage from the starter is not removed. By pressing the book "Off", we break the power supply circuit of the winding, the starter "releases" the contacts, and the motor stops. As you can see, there is nothing difficult in making this useful device for the household.

With repeated use of knives, every housewife is faced with a problem when they begin to become dull and it becomes simply impossible to work with them. In addition, it is unsafe, as the knife may slip off while cutting and injure you. To prevent this from happening, the knives should be sharpened in a timely manner using a special sharpening device.

You can buy a knife sharpener at your local hardware store or market, where they offer you different kinds devices. You will have to choose on your own. But, in order not to be mistaken, you need to know how to properly evaluate them in terms of convenience and quality of operation.

The options offered do not always suit consumers, so many make sharpeners with their own hands, using special stones, tools and drawing sketches with dimensions. The photo shows options for homemade knife sharpeners.

Features of knife sharpening

When sharpening knives, the main thing to do correct angle the edges of the blades so that they serve you long and efficiently. Therefore, when sharpening knives yourself, it is necessary to maintain the existing angle of inclination of the blades.

Each knife blade has its own optimal angles of inclination:

  • from 10 to 15 degrees - for a medical scalpel or straight razor;
  • from 15 to 20 degrees - for household knives used for cutting bread, vegetables or fruits;
  • from 20 to 25 degrees - for multifunctional knives for cutting a variety of products;
  • from 25 to 30 degrees - for reliable companions of hunters and tourists on long trips;
  • from 30 to 40 degrees - for cutting materials that are particularly hard.


To sharpen the correct angle of the blade, you can not do without special devices because it is difficult to do it manually.

The design of such devices is not complicated, so it is easy and quick to make it yourself, and detailed instructions for the manufacture of sharpeners can be borrowed from the Internet.

Types of knife sharpeners

Choose from a large selection of different types of knife sharpeners desired option easy enough for yourself.

The main elements of the grinding device are an emphasis for fixing the knife and an abrasive bar, which is used as ready-made abrasive materials (stones) or own production. But before you get to work, you need to learn how to make a knife sharpener with your own hands.

Types of stones for sharpening

There are several types of grindstones:

  • water. Sharpening stones used in water wear out less during operation.
  • oil. In structure and configuration, they are similar to water ones, but with a more oily surface.
  • natural. For their manufacture, only natural raw materials are used with preliminary processing in the production process.
  • artificial. In this case, the name speaks for itself, that is, the abrasive material is created artificially.
  • rubber. They are not as common as the previous ones, besides, they are inconvenient in the process of application.

What can you make a sharpener for sharpening

To make a whetstone with your own hands, you can use the most in a simple way. Take a small rectangular glass plate about 5 mm thick. Using double-sided tape, fix strips of coarse and medium grit sandpaper on both sides of it.

The bar is ready for use, if necessary, worn sandpaper can be easily replaced with a new one. This method is the most budgetary in terms of cost.


The disadvantages of this device include:

  • rapid wear of the abrasive and fragility of the product (when fixing the beam, you need to be careful that the glass does not crack).
  • possible overheating of the material during rapid movements during the sharpening process.

You can find the best knife sharpener ideas on the relevant websites.

Wooden bars

This method of making a tool for sharpening knives is also simple and accessible to everyone. You will need four identical bars: two abrasive and two wooden.

At the beginning of work, sand the wood blocks with sandpaper so that their surface becomes smooth without burrs. Make a marking of the bar in accordance with the required angle of inclination. Attach a whetstone and mark its width on a block of wood.

Note!

Make 1.5 cm deep cuts on the basting and insert the abrasives into the grooves. Secure the stones with bolts. A piece of rubber fixed at the bottom will give stability to the structure.

In addition, you can make an adjustable sharpener with your own hands, but the next article will tell you how to do this.

DIY knife sharpener photo

Note!

Note!

The blades in the cutting tool are the basis of everything. A kitchen knife, grinder discs, chains for a lawn mower or a chainsaw with a well-sharpened blade simplify and speed up the work process.

You can sharpen a tool in a professional workshop or at home if you make a do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine from simple materials.

Not required for household knives special tool for sharpening, it is enough to have a sharpener in the form of a bar at hand. But if there is a chainsaw at home, the chains of which also need regular sharpening, or a grinder, the disks of which are constantly blunt, then it is better to make the installation yourself. The essence of the device is as follows: a bar is attached to the desktop in two variations - with or without adjustment. For those who do not understand the essence of making a sharpener with their own hands according to the text, they can watch photo or video master classes.

Device manufacturing scheme

In order for the device to turn out to be of high quality and safe, you need to calculate in advance the dimensions of the machine for sharpening knives with your own hands and select necessary materials. The first thing to do is to calculate the angle between the working part of the cutting blade and the bar.

This is followed by the selection of base materials (support) and stone. You can make a machine from glass covered with sandpaper or stone attached to a support. The first option is less expensive, and sandpaper can be changed at any time, but more reliable installation- made of stone.

Process Nuances

In order for the machine for sharpening knives according to the drawings with your own hands to turn out to be ideal and last for more than one year, you need to use the advice of specialists. The first thing to take into account is what kind of blade will be sharpened.

After all, an individual angle is selected for each knife:

  1. Blades for cutting hard objects (for example, cardboard, wood, metal), chainsaws - 30-45 degrees.
  2. Hunting, tourist knives - at an angle of 25-30 degrees.
  3. Kitchen cutting tool for cutting various products, you need to sharpen at 20-25 degrees.
  4. Simple knives for cutting bread, vegetables and fruits require 15-20 degrees of sharpening. At the same angle, you need to sharpen ordinary household scissors, as well as razor knives.

Necessary materials

If you need to make a sharpening machine, you will need the following materials:

  • several wooden bars;
  • sandpaper;
  • cutting tools;
  • drill with several drills.

Simple machine. Step-by-step instruction

  • Step 1. Take three rails and place them so that together they form the letter H. The width of the middle rail should be equal to the width of the saw bar. Repeat procedure.
  • Step 2. Place the rails perpendicular to each other, connecting their bases - the main structure for holding the saw bar is ready.
  • Step 3. This is one of milestones! It is necessary to correctly calculate the angle of attachment of the bar relative to the rails. Calculate it with measuring tools and mark the places where the timber is attached to the vertical and horizontal rails.

If you want to universal fixture, then you need to make several retractable bolts at once at a spacing distance so that you can change the slope of the beam if necessary. This can be done with simple measuring tools and drills. After that, you can cut the slats to a convenient length.

The inconvenience of such a machine is that you have to independently control the location of the knife relative to the beam. If you do not want to think about anything at all while sharpening knives, scissors or chains, then you should make a more complex machine.

Universal machine. Step-by-step instruction

Read each step carefully and, where possible, draw a drawing for each step with all dimensions - this will be a great help in your work:

  1. Cut out two rectangular trapezoids from plywood, the bases of which will be equal to 60 and 170 mm, and the sidewall along right angle- 230 mm.
  2. Cut out a rectangular plank with dimensions of 230 by 150 mm.
  3. Fasten the rectangle between the bases so that it protrudes 40 mm upwards.
  4. Cut out a 60mm by 60mm block and attach it to the base of the wedge.
  5. Using a drill, make a vertical hole in the bar at a distance of 50 mm from the center. Insert the futors from above and below the hole, and into them - a hairpin of the appropriate diameter, 25 cm long.
  6. Process rectangular base. At the level of 40 mm of the protrusion, make a cut of about 2 mm so that a sheet of sandpaper can be attached to this place
  7. Make a fixer:
    • Take an L-shaped plank with dimensions of 15 by 18 cm along the long edges and an approximate width of each shelf up to 5 cm.
    • Take a rectangular bar 5 by 5 cm.
    • Make a groove in the plank at the level of the hairpin and fix the planks on it with minimal mobility.

8. Make a traffic controller:

    • Secure the stud with a nut so that it does not rotate.
    • From hard wood, cut out a block with dimensions of 20x40x80 mm and fasten it to the stud with nuts.
    • On the wide side, make a hole of 9 mm indented from the edge of 15 mm.
    • Cut out two bars of 50x80x20 mm from hardwood and make one hole in them at a distance of 20 mm from the edge in the center.
    • Take the welding of a stud and a smooth rod and fasten the bars on it as follows: first the fixing nut, then the first bar. Then aluminum profile, then the second bar and another latch.
    • Glue the sandpaper to the aluminum profile.

The universal sharpening tool is ready. Cut out several templates with different angles so that you can refer to them as you work. Remember that at each stage of creating a tool, pre-created drawings will help you - do not neglect this step, otherwise it will be very difficult to avoid mistakes.

No matter what you need to sharpen - simple kitchen knife, garden or nail scissors or chainsaw chains - such a tool will cope with any job if you set the angle correctly and remember to use it when the need arises.

There are two main reasons why buying a factory sharpener is not an option. Firstly, the purchase of an inexpensive device made in China, in further operation, will not provide the product with the sharpness of the proper quality.

Branded copies can be a solution to this problem, but a significant drawback is the cost. There is no opportunity or just a desire to shell out a tidy sum for a device, then you can make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands. There is no need to develop new designs, create your creation based on already existing models. DIY knife sharpening machine different types with detailed instructions.

We imitate a sharpener model from Lansky

This machine for sharpening knives is presented in the form of two metal corners connected to each other. The sharpening angle is determined by the hole into which the needle is inserted, at the end of which there is a nozzle.

Of the options considered, this one is the least user-friendly, but not easy to manufacture. Let's improve the device, try to make a device for sharpening knives with a wider range of degrees of pressure angle.

We take ordinary metal plates,

whose dimensions are 4x11 cm. Or more, all the same, during operation, the parts will be filed and adjusted to the desired parameters.

With the help of a grinder, sharp corners are removed at the ends of the parts (sides that act as clamps). Using a file, grind the edges of the clamps, you should get a smooth bevel from the middle of the base to the edges of the plates.

According to the drawing, we make markings for future holes. We drill them and cut the thread. We round off all sharp edges and corners on the plates with a file (not only for the sake of nobility appearance, but also for the sake of comfortable use, so that nothing crashes into your hands).

We purchase a standard aluminum corner, and make holes in it in accordance with the drawing above. In the holes intended for the entry of the stud, we cut the thread. And the hole that is intended to support the spokes must be expanded with a needle file.

Next, you need two cuts of a metal rod

about 15 cm long. We insert them into the extreme holes and fix the entry depth with two nuts of the appropriate diameter. In our case, these elements are equal to the size of M6. We screw a bolt (length about 14 cm) of size M8 into a hole of a larger diameter, on which a lamb nut is already screwed, and on top of it a pair of ordinary ones, but of a larger diameter than the bolt itself. It will be used as a support post for the structure. The remaining holes are for bolts, which will be used to adjust the clamping force of the blade.

Nuts are strung on the ends of the rods, then corners are put on, which are again pressed with nuts. By lowering them up or down, we can adjust the required sharpening angle.

The element that will hold the blade for sharpening is assembled from a thin metal rod (in the shape of the letter “G”), two holders (the last one with a through hole for the knitting needle), a wing nut and an M6 threaded rod.

We imitate a sharpener model from Spyderco

This knife sharpening machine is presented in the form of a plastic horizontal holder with several holes. And each nest has its own angle of inclination.

Of all the options that will be considered, this one has the most low level sharpening quality. The problem is that the blade will be pressed manually, unlike the first option, without additional fixation on the support. But despite this, this device for sharpening knives is quite suitable for domestic use, and plus - it is very simple in terms of manufacturing.

In the process of work, we need two wooden bars with dimensions 6x4x30 cm, two bolts and wing nuts with dimensions M6 or M8, two thin knitting needles (curved in the shape of the letter “G”).

Of the tools you need a hacksaw blade, a chisel and a hammer, a file with sandpaper, a school protractor and a drill.


With a conventional conveyor

we apply markings with the required angle of inclination. We take the canvas and file the first mark on one of the parts. It is not necessary to go deeper than the width of the canvas itself.

We turn the hacksaw over and insert it with the blunt side into the sawn slot. We apply the second part from above and make sure that both the edges of the elements themselves and the markings on them match. Next, we saw through all the remaining lines in the same way.


We apply a chisel to the excess wood that needs to be removed. With a hammer, tap lightly on the top of the chisel and knock out small chips. When the bulk of the wood is removed, we bring the site to the required evenness with a file.

We drill holes for the entry of bolts and spokes as shown in the figure. Using fine grit sandpaper, smooth the edges of the holes, the corners of the parts and their entire surface.

We thread bolts into larger holes, then we string ordinary nuts and tighten them tighter. In smaller ones, locking needles pass (necessary so that the canvases do not move down during operation). We insert the canvases themselves into the grooves and press them against the second half of the product. We fix everything at the end with a pair of wing nuts.

We imitate a sharpener model from Apex

This knife sharpening machine is presented in the form of enough massive device with a stand and a platform placed on it at an angle, a rod is mounted on the side, on which the end of the nozzle rests. This type of grinding device, despite its dimensions, in comparison with the previous ones, is the most successful.

It is easy to use and the quality of sharpening is high. In addition, making such a knife sharpener with your own hands is very simple.

To work, we need the following:

  • (not a whole, even a quarter is enough);
  • magnet (with slots for bolts, if it is not possible to drill them yourself);
  • metal rod M6 or M8;
  • small wooden block;
  • a small piece of plexiglass;
  • two bolts and three wing nuts;
  • 10 self-tapping screws;
  • 4 rubber feet;
  • saw;
  • drill;
  • ceramic clips (or wood blanks).

First you need to cut three small blanks from a chipboard sheet. Dimensions of the first: 37x12 cm. Dimensions of the second: 30x8 cm, measuring 6 cm from the edge on the longer side, we drill a hole. Dimensions of the third: 7x8 cm. We saw off an element 8 cm long from the bar (section 4x2 cm).

Drilling in section two through holes perpendicular to each other. The first at a distance of 3 cm from one edge, the second at the same distance from the other. Starting from the edge of the bar and up to the very hole, we cut out a bunch of wood 1 cm thick. At the cut of plexiglass, the following parameters are: 6x12 cm. A slot is drilled along the middle of the canvas.

We take the first largest blank

from chipboard and drill holes in the corners for the future legs of the product. At a distance of 4 cm from its edge, we put the smallest workpiece perpendicularly and connect them together using 2 self-tapping screws.

On the top of a small workpiece, we put the edge of a medium-sized part and again connect them with 2 self-tapping screws. The hole in the middle part should be closer to the top of the smaller one. The free edge of a medium-sized workpiece is rigidly attached to the site of a large part, again with the help of 2 self-tapping screws.

Using a drill, we drill a shallow depression on medium-sized parts. It should be located almost on the very edge of its highest point, and the dimensions correspond to the parameters of the magnet.

We mount the magnet inside (so that it does not rise above the level of the surface of the plank) and fix it with small self-tapping screws.

We put a piece of plexiglass on a medium-sized board, so that their hole and slot coincide with each other. We pass a bolt through them with a washer put on it and screw the nut from below.

A hole is drilled on the free edge of the largest chipboard part with a diameter corresponding to the diameter of the iron rod. The rod itself is fixed with two nuts: a regular one and a lamb. So that they do not crash into the surface of the board, we separate them with washers.

A blank from a bar is wound onto a fixed rod.

A bolt is inserted into the hole to which the cut was made, screwed with a nut from the outside. Tightening the lamb, we fix the part at a certain height of the rod, release it - move up and down freely. The sharpening angle is regulated precisely with the help of this bar (raise or lower along the rod).

The element for clamping the grinding blade is assembled from a cut of a metal rod of two ceramic or wooden blanks and 4 nuts with washers. They are strung in the same order as in the photo. At the very end, rubber feet are screwed for greater stability of the product.

We have considered three various options sharpening devices. And each of them has its pros and cons. You should choose a particular option based on your needs, as well as skills in a similar work plan.

Note information : , .