How to make a do-it-yourself jointer drawings. Practical do-it-yourself jointer

The hand router is the most versatile tool in the home carpentry shop. Today, the video channel “Do-it-yourself joinery” talked about one of the most useful ways to use a hand mill for your work, namely, how to use it for jointing the edges of long workpieces. This is a story about how the master managed to turn a hand router into a home-made full-featured jointer.

The result of his work is satisfactory. But it is not suitable for jointing the edges because of the small base, and when working with thin boards, it is completely inapplicable, since it is almost impossible to strictly maintain the perpendicularity of the board face to planing knives. In addition, with this method of planing the edges, the pressure rollers are heavily worn.

I read on the Internet that for planing small workpieces, you can use a milling machine with a guide, the parallel working surfaces of which on opposite sides of the cutter - feed and receive - are offset relative to each other by the depth of planing. Moreover, the cutting edge of the cutter is rigidly fixed at the same level with the receiving surface.

Therefore, the next tool in the course of creating a home-made tool for woodworking after acquiring a thicknessing machine was a powerful hand mill, which is permanently installed on a desktop with a tabletop size of 75x150 cm.

Refinement of a manual milling cutter to the machine

I deliberately cut the plate for the router not in the center of the table, but closer to the edge, so that it would be more convenient to process the edge of long and wide workpieces, including furniture panels. An aluminum pipe with a length of 1.5 m and a cross section of 45x95 mm is used as a guide. Using a pipe as a guide has its advantages. But more on that later.

I made a groove for the cutter in the pipe. For work, a straight groove cutter with a diameter of 12 mm with a cutting edge 51 mm long is used.

Install the router on the table. To do this, remove the plastic pad on the sole and the cutter overhang controller. We remove the plate from the table, insert the cutter overhang adjustment screw into the router and fix the plate on the sole with screws. Install the router with the plate on the table and adjust the screws in the corners of the plate and slightly adjust its height so that it is flush with the table surface. Now install the cutter and wear rings into the insert. Well, it's ready.

Guide preparation

Prepare a guide. In our case, this part of the guide will serve as the supply surface, and the overlay attached on the other side of the guide will serve as the receiving surface. The depth of planing will be determined by the thickness of the lining. Laminated plastic strips are used as the overlay. There are two of them - “thin” and “thick” with a thickness of 0.5 mm and 1.5 mm, respectively. A thick strip is usually used for jointing the non-planed edge of a purchased edged board, and a thin strip is used for finishing shaving the workpiece after sawing it on a circular saw. The strips are attached to the pipe using either double-sided tape or contact adhesive.

Degrease the surface of the pipe with white spirit and glue a strip of thin plastic to the pipe using an aerosol contact adhesive. Now we will install the guide on the table and fix it with clamps from the ends. On the one hand, it is rigid, on the other, we press it slightly so that it can be slightly shifted relative to the cutter. Let's lower the cutter a little and, using a ruler, adjust the position of the guide so that the cutting edge of the cutter is flush with the overlay. The procedure is very responsible, since the quality of jointing depends on the quality of the guide position adjustment. At the end of the adjustment, we finally fix the guide with clamps.

Homemade planer

Finally, it's time to talk about the important advantage of using a pipe as a guide. Chip evacuation is essential to ensure a clean edge surface. For this we use a construction vacuum cleaner. Here he fits perfectly. And it is very convenient to remove chips through the guide pipe. To do this, just insert the vacuum cleaner tube into the tube a little short of the cutter. That's about it. You can close the second hole in the pipe, in which case the effect will be even better.

Demonstration of a do-it-yourself planer

Let's use a board to demonstrate. Plasti boards sharpened on a thicknessing machine. You can see for yourself the quality of the edge. The differences are about 1.5–2 mm. Let's cut off the edge on our impromptu planer. The board is long, a little more than 3 m, so to support it on both sides of the table we use these homemade goats.

Well, let's get started. Due to the large depth of the roughness of the edge, several passes will have to be made. Let's check what happened. Now perfectly flat and perpendicular to the plate. This cover is fairly easy to remove. The glue that I used has one remarkable property: if you cover only one side of the parts to be joined and, without allowing it to dry completely, press it against the second part, the connection will be fragile and the parts can then be easily disconnected. In our case, this is very convenient. Now it is enough to wipe both surfaces with white spirit and they will be ready for reuse.

From such a pipe you can make an excellent universal parallel stop for both a milling machine and a circular machine for. On the one hand, you can install sliding pads and expand the groove for large diameter cutters, and the other side can be used as a guide for a circular machine. The video shows the entire process of making a home-made, converted from a milling cutter, planer.

Content:

For any job to be successful, you need to have good equipment and tools. The same statement is also suitable for amateurs (or professionals) to "tinker" with a tree. Masters in the manufacture of furniture or other wooden products are always trying to acquire various tools and devices that can help them in their work.

For example, a planer. This device significantly increases the productivity and quality of woodworking. But not all fans can buy it, because its price is quite high. And how to get out of such a difficult situation? There is a solution, and it is quite simple - this is to make a desktop jointer with your own hands. And the manufacturing process itself will be discussed in the article.

Why do you need a planer

A woodworking workshop can have a variety of machines, but the most commonly used (of course, except for a circular saw) can be called planer and planer devices. These two types of aggregates are somewhat similar in their function, but differ in the way they are used.

If you need to make a wooden blank in the form of a board, beam or shield, then it is better to use a thicknessing machine. Such a device, the main tool of which is the same knife, is able to cut the source material into two parallel parts. In this case, both of them will be adjusted to certain sizes.

Thicknessing machines are available in both single-sided and double-sided types. In the first case, only one side of the workpiece is processed in one pass. More productive is a double-sided thicknessing machine. Here, the output is already obtained almost finished part.

For thicknessing machines, the shaft is located above the table top. Moreover, the latter is made massive in order to smooth out large vibrations. In addition, the mechanism is equipped with a special casing, which is designed to absorb noise.

The jointer has a slightly different task. This device is used to create a smooth, without significant roughness, surface on the workpiece. Such a machine, like the previous version, is equipped with a shaft with knives, only in the jointer it is located under the table top.

The workpiece is fed to the working surface from one side, the exit from the opposite side is already partially processed. In this way, the desired evenness is achieved layer by layer. After processing on a planer, the part can be fed to a planer.

Basic concepts

In such equipment there will be numerous rotating parts. From this we can conclude that it will not be so easy to make such a machine with your own hands. Therefore, starting to manufacture it, you need to calculate your strength. If you already have some similar experience, then you will cope with the task.
It should be noted right away that you will not be able to make a jointer completely from parts of your own manufacture. Of course, perhaps in your "bins" there is a large assortment of different devices, but this rarely happens. First of all, this concerns the shaft with knives and bearings. They, most likely, will have to be bought in addition or even ordered. But if everything you need is available, then you can safely proceed to the design.

Some parts for the planer: cutter shaft, knife bearings, you will have to buy or order

First of all, it is worth understanding what kind of “complete set” you want to receive. There may be several options here:

just a grinder. It will only serve one function;
set of jointer and circular saw. In this case, the functionality of the machine is doubled;
equipment capable of performing the role of a jointer, and a circular saw, and a grinding device, and a grinding and drilling machine. Such a device will be very useful for your workshop, but it will be difficult to do it yourself.

The most optimal and easiest option to perform is to make a jointer and a circular saw on one bed. Plus, both tools will rotate from one electric motor. This feature greatly facilitates our task.

Consider the main components of our future table jointer. It will include:

Bed. This design will hold the entire machine and equipment installed on it. For its manufacture, it is best to use durable channels, with a wall thickness in the range of 8-10 millimeters. The bed can be made both collapsible and capital. In the first case, all its components will be connected with bolts and nuts. If you do not need a portable machine, then the channels can be fixed together by welding. This option will be more reliable. You can do without a bed if its role is played by the desktop;
Work tool. This is one of the most important components of the machine. The jointer knives and the saw itself - it is with their help that you will saw and process the boards. Knives are firmly attached to the shaft. They must be made of reliable and strong steel. Circular saw with victorious soldering. Such a tool will serve you much longer;
Rotor - it is to it that all tools will be attached. Without this part, it is impossible to make any machine, thickness gauge or circular saw. Finding a suitable rotor can be quite difficult, so it is better to order it from a professional turner, after providing it with drawings;
Desktop. For a normally functioning machine, you will need three surfaces. One will serve as a desktop for a circular saw, and the other two for a jointer. The thickness of the material for the working surface must be at least five millimeters. For these purposes, multilayer plywood or metal sheets are suitable. In this case, it is desirable to make a small difference in height for surfaces intended for jointing. The side on which the workpiece will be fed should be a couple of millimeters lower than the one to which the already processed side will go. Such a difference will facilitate the work and significantly reduce vibration.

Planer electric drive

And of course, do not forget about the drive. All mechanisms must rotate. This means that the drive will be the "heart" of the machine. Here are some recommendations for this design element:
- First of all, prepare the electric motor.

Planer motor

It is best to use a three-phase unit for these purposes. Of course, in this case you may have to redo the electrical network in your workshop, then it's worth it. Three-phase electric motors operating at a voltage of 380 V are capable of developing high power. In addition, the torque of such devices is suitable for our purposes. The minimum power value should be 3 kW, but the maximum is at your discretion;

to transfer torque from the electric motor to the working shaft, it must be carried out using belts. A two-strand wedge-shaped shape is best suited for these purposes. Such belts are more reliable;
the electric motor itself can be mounted on a cantilever, directly inside the machine frame. This method will help solve the problem associated with belt tension. If you want to strengthen the engine more firmly, then you need to add a slide to the design, with which adjustment will be carried out;
to increase the shaft speed, it is worth using two pulleys. One, of larger diameter, is installed on the electric motor. A pulley with a smaller cross section is mounted on the shaft.

Be very careful with the power supply of the machine. Three-phase current is supplied through a four-wire cable. In this case, reliable grounding must be organized. These requirements will help to avoid accidents when working on the machine.

Drawing. The main stages of creating a jointer

Bench Planer - Blueprint

Bench planer - drawing (part 2)

A jointer, the simplest version of it without additional functions, can be quite easily made by hand. The general course of work in this case will look like this:

first prepare all the necessary parts, tools and materials;
we create a drawing of the future machine. Without this "document" it is impossible to start work. With the help of the drawing, you can calculate all the nuances and prepare for them. In addition, having such a plan will greatly facilitate and simplify the task;
further, we transfer all the dimensions of future parts to the workpiece and manufacture them;
a very important detail is the place to install the rotor bearings. It is made from several blanks.

When bonding, glue and clamp are used. The recess must ideally fit the size of the bearing;

Next, we install the electric motor. To do this, as noted above, you can use a cantilever mount, or install the unit on a skid;
the next step is to assemble the rotor with the bearing and install them in their place. At the same time, the connection to the electric motor is carried out using a belt drive. Check that the rotor rotates freely in the bearing;
further, the assembly and installation of the working surface is carried out. It will consist of two parts - serving and receiving. In this case, the second should be a couple of millimeters higher than the first. The working surface can be made of plywood, and for greater strength and longer service life, upholstered with sheet iron.

After creating the system, turning the electric motor on and off, the machine is ready for use. But in order for your new tool to bring only benefit and joy to work, it is worth using it correctly and safely.

A rotary machine, like any mechanism, needs proper operation. If you do not follow certain rules, the device can quickly fail. And in the worst case, you yourself will get injured. Therefore, when using, you should follow the recommendations from experts:

In order for the machine to work reliably, it is necessary to periodically carry out preventive maintenance. Such a complex includes the following measures - checking the reliability of the location of the knives on the shaft, injection of bearings, checking the electric motor, inspecting the belt drive for sufficiency of its tension, checking all contacts, and so on;
rotating parts are always dangerous. And if they are also equipped with sharp blades, then the risk of getting herbs is very high. To increase the safety of operation, it is better to cover the shaft with knives with a casing. It will open when the wood piece originates, and close again when idle;
Observe all safety precautions when operating the machine. This is especially true for the quality of workplace lighting. Hang a powerful lamp above the machine, and the very room of your workshop should be bright. Also pay attention to the quality of the floor. If it is too slippery, then it is better to install a wooden platform or a rubber mat;
do not use excessive force when planing or cutting material. Excess force will not speed up the work, but only spoil the workpiece or lead to breakdowns of the machine itself;
do not hesitate to invite an assistant when processing long workpieces. So the work will be done faster, better and safer for your health.

Of course, you should keep your desktop clean. After finishing work, with the machine turned off and de-energized, clean the device from chips. The same thing needs to be done periodically to perform large volumes. Turn off the machine and remove any accumulated chips from all mechanisms and surfaces. Cleanliness will make your job easier and help keep your plant running longer.

The video will discuss in detail one of the options for a homemade planer.

Video: homemade planer

The planer is used to process wood mechanically using a cutting tool. It is planing in the rectilinear direction of wooden parts along the surface or edges. According to the number of cutting mechanisms, two-sided and one-sided machines are distinguished, the first version of the equipment is designed for jointing two adjacent surfaces at the same time.

The supply of the workpiece to work is organized mechanically or manually. For mechanical movement of the part, an automatic feed device attached to the machine is used, or a conveyor built into the unit. For dust removal and shavings, chip collectors are provided.

Planer device

The unit consists of structural parts:

beds;
table;
fan fencing;
guide line;
knife shaft.

The bed is designed to support all elements of the machine and workpieces and can withstand significant weight. It is made from a profile with a large margin of safety, for example, a channel or an I-beam.

The table is equipped with two plates- front and back. The rear plate with its surface is located in relation to the contour of the cylindrical shape obtained by twisting the knife blades. The surface of the front plate is located below the back plate by the thickness of the layer to be removed in one pass of the part. The guide ruler and the work table are made with smooth and even surfaces.

The shaft for knives is installed between plates of a desktop. Cutting knives are selected of the same shape and weight, and the edges of the knives are set so that they simultaneously and evenly describe the cylindrical processing contour.

The guide ruler is located in the grooves on the working surfaces and is fixed with bolts. The ruler moves across the table when the width of the workpiece changes.

The shaft fan guard is fixed on the front plate of the working table. To protect the knife shaft, a pressing spring of the fan contour against the guide ruler is provided.

It is most convenient to work with workpieces from one to one and a half meters, short parts are dangerous and inconvenient to hold, long ones break out due to the fact that their dimensions exceed the length of the table. The slot of the knife shaft is equipped with two steel plates that are mounted flush with the surface. The distance from the edge of the overlay to the contour described by the blades is not must be less than 3 mm, while the edges are polished, notches and depressions are removed from them.

Knife shafts are cylindrical in shape, but it is not recommended to use segmented linings for this, which in the process are hotel due to high centrifugal force or loosening of the fastening. Common clamping method knives into trapezoidal grooves and fixed with bolts and wedges; in this variant, the knives are additionally wedged during rotation.

Preparation of the jointer for work

Before planing, the structural parts are set up and the installation of work items is controlled.

Planer table adjustment

The difference between the surfaces of the rear and front plates is set in the range from 1.25 to 1.5 mm, which makes it possible to align the plane in two passes of the workpiece. To ensure that the installation parameters of the rear plate do not change during operation, locking devices are provided for fixing. Between knife shaft and jaw the back plate of the table provide a distance of 5 mm.

The material for the table tops is gray cast iron. Rigid ribs are made on the reverse side of the working plane to reduce vibration movement. To prevent wear of the plate ends under an abrasive load, steel linings are made, they also serve to reduce the distance from the edges of the blades and provide additional work safety.

Installing blades

Knives are selected with straight blades, the deviation is checked with probes and a ruler, while the gap should not exceed 0.1 mm. Prepared and tested knives are installed in sequential order, while the edges of the blades protrude 1–2 mm above the edge of the steel plates of the slot. The parallelism of the knives with each other is checked with a control bar or a special indicator.

When using an indicator, the installation accuracy is greater than when using a control bar. Distortions of the blades during fastening are avoided; they should be located on a common cylindrical contour of rotation, while the axis of the cylinder coincides with the axis of the knife shaft. It is forbidden to use any type gaskets when installing blades, knives that have become unusable from grinding or changing the width of the blade are replaced without fail.

control bar

Used to set up a jointer when installing cutting blades. The device is made of hard dried wood, the control edges are processed with high precision. The bars are made with a section:

20×30 for length 400 mm;
20×50 for length 400 or 500 mm;
30x50 or 30x70 for 500mm length.

In the process of using the bar, its edges are checked and additionally aligned and jointed to remove teeth and cavities. When installing knives, the measuring device is placed on the back plate of the desktop. By turning the shaft by hand, the blades touch the underside of the bar. The position is controlled at three points of the shaft, in the middle and at the ends at a distance of 70-100 mm from the edge. The adjustment is carried out until a uniform protrusion of the knives is achieved at all intervals and the same touch.

Planer-thickness unit

It is a combined machine with a combination of planer and planer processing. After the initial sawing of the boards, they come to the final elimination of all irregularities. Differs from the jointer in that, which allows you to plan to the selected depth. The knife shaft with blades is located between the receiving table, fastened to the frame, and the receiving surface; in some models, the cutting tool is installed under the table or on top of the plane. To set it in size and adjust, a ruler attached to the body is used.

Simultaneous planer and thicknesser processing allows planing the workpiece to the selected depth, so it is used in large production facilities. Works great in a construction site, where wood is brought with primary processing, and subsequent planing to size is carried out on the site before installation in the structure.

Making a machine with your own hands

To begin with, they are determined with the number of functions of the future unit. It could be:

simply planer with one planing operation;
a combination of a jointer and a circular saw that doubles the usefulness of the equipment;
they add a grinding, grinding and drilling function, but for your own workshop with your own hands, making a complex set of equipment is a difficult task.

Often, craftsmen independently manufacture a planer with a sawing function, while the torque is transmitted from one electric motor, it includes structural elements:

Machine electric drive

The work of the planer and saw is based on rotational functions, therefore the drive is called the heart of the unit. A three-phase motor is suitable as an electric motor, sometimes the wiring in the workshop is converted for this. Three-phase units with a voltage of 380 V are characterized by high power and suitable torque. The minimum allowable engine power is 3 kW, the maximum figure is not limited.

The transmission of rotation from the engine to the shaft is carried out by means of a belt drive. Wedge-shaped two-strand belts work well in such conditions, they are reliable in operation. The electric motor is mounted with a console inside the bed frame structure, the installation method helps to adjust the tension of the belts. Another way is to mount with a skid - this leaves the possibility of adjustment, but the engine itself is fixed more firmly.

To accelerate the rotation of the shaft, two pulleys of different diameters are used. The larger one is placed on the electric motor, the smaller pulley is placed on the shaft. To supply electrical power, a cable with four cores is chosen; such wiring reduces the risk of work.

Main stages of work

The progress of work in the manufacture of a jointer looks like this:

Operation features

Woodworking equipment, like any other, requires care and caution, compliance with certain work rules:

Operating rules shown in the video.

The use of electric wood processing is effective in comparison with manual planing, jointing. To obtain high-quality blanks without injuries and accidents, safety precautions and equipment operation rules are observed.

Making a jointer with your own hands, if you have at least basic knowledge about the structure of this tool, is not difficult at all. The task is greatly simplified if you have an old electric planer in your arsenal - it will become the main component of a home planer.

The jointer is widely used in wood processing - with its help it is easy to make the surface smooth, get rid of bumps and roughness, and give the lumber a neat look. Having at hand such a multifunctional tool, you will significantly expand your possibilities in the field of woodworking. With a jointer, it is easy to do the collection of furniture with your own hands, make a lining or parquet.

Purpose jointer

Working with wood can be not only a pleasant hobby, but also an opportunity to provide all the necessary interior items. In the presence of specialized tools, home-made furniture in terms of quality and appearance will not differ much from factory-made analogues. The planer is one of these tools, it makes it possible to make the surface of the wood perfectly even, prepare it for gluing, varnishing or applying a decorative pattern.

Jointer, or jointer, is a tool for finishing lumber of large lengths and widths. Processing is carried out by removing a small (1-2 mm) layer of material using a rotating shaft, in which sharp blades made of hardened metal are mounted.

The principle of operation of a jointer is identical to that of a planer, with the difference that the jointer is fixed in place, and the material being processed moves. The extra length of the fixture allows it to be used to give a beautiful look to wide flat surfaces.

Selection of accessories for jointer

In order to assemble a jointer from an electric planer, it is not at all necessary to disassemble a new tool. A planer that was previously used for its intended purpose is quite suitable. The disadvantage of some modern models of such devices is that their plastic body loosens over time, cracks and chips appear on it. It becomes unsafe to work with such a planer, but it fully meets the requirements for creating a planer. All you need to do is turn the planer over and fix it in this form in a previously prepared workbench.

The choice of an electric planer model is one of the important points when assembling a machine. Most models have a planing width of 82 mm, which is quite satisfactory for home use. More expensive and powerful planers are equipped with a 100 or 110 mm shaft. In the latter case, such parameters make it possible to drive boards and bars 10 cm wide through the tool, without leaving untreated areas.

It is worth paying attention to the additional functions of the electric planer: some models are already equipped with special devices from the factory that allow you to turn the tool into a full-fledged planer. Such a planer can be fixed with the sole up, while the safety of work is ensured by a spring-loaded protective cover.

If there is a need to process materials whose width exceeds 110 mm, then it will be very inconvenient to do this with an electric planer, since the board will have to be driven several times, which increases time and reduces the accuracy of work. In this case, it is worth considering the possibility of assembling a powerful jointer, the main components of which will be a separate shaft and a powerful electric motor. Although the cost of the shaft is often more than half the price of all materials, but with such a tool in your arsenal, you will no longer be limited in your woodworking capabilities.

The planing width of a full-fledged jointer equipped with a shaft is in the range from 25 to 85 cm and more, but one must take into account the fact that an increase in this parameter entails an increase in engine power consumption.

Optimum engine power depends on several parameters:

shaft width;
the number of knives;
width of processed lumber.

The dependence is direct: the greater the value of the listed parameters, the higher the engine power should be. For home machines, 1.5-2 kW engines have proven themselves well. The speed of rotation of the shaft of such machines is 4-4.5 thousand revolutions per minute, the width of the processed material is 25-40 cm.

Planer assembly

The assembly of the jointer is carried out in several stages. First you need to assemble the body of the workbench, into which the electric planer will subsequently be mounted. The case looks like an ordinary wooden box without a bottom. From above it is covered with a thick sheet of plywood, in which a hole is cut for installing a planer. Plywood will bear the weight of the tool, and to work with the material it must be covered with two more sheets, the thickness of which will differ by 1-2 mm. They are installed on the right and left sides of the planer. In this case, thin plywood plays the role of a feeding table, and thick plywood plays the role of a receiving table.

The principle of interaction between the feeding and receiving tables is extremely simple: lumber, moving along one half of the workbench, reaches the planer, while a layer of chips 1-2 mm thick is removed from it. Already processed wood at one end falls on the receiving part of the table, where it occupies a stable position, thus allowing the rest of the board to pass over the planer. In addition to the support function, this provides vibration reduction and makes it possible to provide a reliable stop during work.

Assembling a jointer with a shaft is a little more difficult, but with experience it will also not take much time. Such a machine consists of similar parts - a body, a feeding and receiving table, a chip collection compartment. Not superfluous in such a model of a home-made device would be a speed reducer, which will allow you to reduce the speed of rotation of the shaft to pass through problem areas - significant bumps, knots, etc. Of great importance is the calculation and precise fitting of all elements of the body to each other, ensuring reliable mounting of the engine and perfect alignment of the work tables.

Work Safety Precautions

A jointer, due to a combination of dangerous factors - a high speed of rotation of the shaft and the presence of sharp blades, belongs to potentially traumatic equipment. Working with it requires strict adherence to a number of safety rules. This is especially true for homemade tools: incorrect calculation of the elements that make them up often leads to fatal consequences. To avoid problems when working with a jointer, you must adhere to the following requirements:

Before starting work, you need to wait until the shaft picks up maximum speed.
In no case should you inspect the working tool, lubricate it or clean it from chips during operation. To do this, you need to stop the machine, de-energize it, and only then proceed with maintenance.
When processing small parts, the length of which does not exceed 40 cm and the width - 5 cm, you should use a special vertical stop. It looks like a thick board, which is fixedly attached to the feeding desktop.
To increase the safety of work, the jointer shaft can be equipped with a special protective damper. With the translational movement of the material, it moves away, and after the end of processing, it returns to its original position using a system of springs. The blades of the shaft at the same time remain closed from accidental contact.
Lighting is of great importance - all work must be carried out under the light of a powerful lamp, or on the street.

Wood processing- one of the most popular types of activities among enthusiastic people around the world.

This material is relatively cheap, easy to polish, and the finished product, coated with varnish, paint or stain, will serve for a dozen years without losing external aesthetics and strength.

Interior items, furniture and much more can be made independently, for this it is not at all necessary to spend money on the purchase of expensive equipment or materials.

Even the fact that plastic, various metal alloys are replacing wood products everywhere does not reduce the interest in woodworking among enthusiasts.

This is both a great hobby and an opportunity to surprise loved ones with unique handmade items.

The advice of experienced woodworkers suggests that it is not necessary to run to hardware stores if you need an additional tool to perform a certain type of work.

Some things you can do with your own hands. For example, such a carpentry tool as a jointer.

What does he represent? Jointers can be classified as planers familiar to us, but with slight changes in appearance, which means they are designed to perform certain tasks.

Increasing the length of the jointer makes it possible to process wide flat surfaces. The planing mechanism in this case is the same as when working with a planer.

Separate decorative or small elements cannot be processed with such equipment, but if it is necessary to achieve a smooth and flat surface of the product, it is indispensable.

Making a hand planer from a planer and long, sanded pieces of wood is a simple task for any person who is more or less experienced in carpentry. Therefore, it is not worth spending large sums on its acquisition.

Having devoted several evenings to the manufacture of such a tool, you will replenish your arsenal with quite practical and necessary equipment for woodworking.

Jointer from an electric planer do it yourself: how to do?

For those who have turned their hobby into something more and are looking to expand their range of tools, we suggest trying to make a jointer yourself. Interesting and useful at the same time.

The option of manufacturing woodworking equipment presented by us, subject to the technology, allows us to obtain a tool with high accuracy.

To do this, we will use boards or plywood sheets already processed in advance with the help of a jointer and thicknesser.

Jointer from an electric planer: how to build equipment yourself

In order to make a jointer with your own hands, you will need a wooden box, firmly hammered together, three sheets of plywood of different thicknesses (for which we will explain along the way so as not to confuse), an electric planer, bolts and nuts for fastening. Let's start with the box.

You can take a ready-made box without a bottom, but it's better to do it yourself. The fact is that the box should be an elongated rectangular shape so that there is where to swing when jointing.

We cover the knocked-up box with a sheet of plywood, having previously cut a hole in it, and place the planer in the box, with the knives up, or with the sole, which is actually the same thing.

If the planer is Interskolovsky, then it has a special device for attaching it to the table upside down with knives, these elements are called fixtures.

On top of the base sheet of plywood with the planer already attached, we put two more sheets.

What is special: one of the sheets will be 2 mm thicker. This will be the receiving sheet, that is, the one on which the wooden beam leaves after jointing (we assume that 2 mm will be the layer that will be hewn with a jointer).

The second sheet is respectively 2 mm thinner. This will be the feed layer, the one from which the wooden beam is fed to the planer blade.

The sole of the planer should be raised above the main plywood sheet in such a way that the sole and the receiving layer make up the same plane, are on the same level, and the feed plywood is 2 mm higher.

The jointer must be firmly screwed with bolts and nuts so that, if necessary, the fastening can be adjusted.

Jointer from an electric planer: instructions for making

Method 1. Vertical placement of the working surface of an electric planer

Turning an electric planer into a jointer does not take much effort and time. You don't need materials either. Remains of wood are suitable, which can be attached to the common good. The first option for using an electric planer as a jointer provides for a vertical arrangement of the working surface and the cutting knife.

This placement allows you to process both narrow and wide workpieces. In this case, the workpiece moves freely on the surface of the table.

The idea of the fixture is quite simple, but the caveat is that it is not suitable for use on any table, for its use you need a carpentry workbench of a special design with the possibility of external side mounting.

With it, it is very easy to install an electric planer in a vertical position. It should be noted that the device is made of plywood 12 mm thick, for the DeWalt 680 OS electric planer. If you have equipment of a different model, then the device adapts to the design features of the existing planer.

Installation of equipment includes the following operations:

we insert the mounting bolts into the T-shaped profile and do not clamp them, but only slightly fasten them;

remove the pressure plate and install the planer;

we put the pressure plate in place, but do not tighten it, but only lightly bait it;

we expose the working surface of the planer strictly perpendicular to the countertop using a measuring tool;

the angle must be 90º. You can get the angle value using the M8 adjusting screw connection. The nut is installed in the plywood plane, and the screw passing through it rests against the handle of the electric planer, thereby changing the angle between the sole and the table surface. On the handle of the tool, it is advisable to install a metal plate on the double-sided tape in the place where the screw will be pressed. After setting the required size, the screw must be tightened with a lock nut;

we remove the standard side stop from the planer, and in its place we put a protective cover made by ourselves. As a protective cover rod, it is best to use a Ø8 stud with a 30 mm threaded end. Casing size 150x150 with rounding;

a distinctive feature of this installation is the ability to install knives tangentially, as shown in the photo. Then the cleanliness of processing improves and the workpiece is much easier to feed;

after all the settings are completed, we tighten all the wing nuts and install additional clamps in order to avoid accidental violation of the settings during the planing process.

Pay attention that the cutting tool of the planer does not touch the table surfaces. This point must be taken into account when making the device.

As a clamp, you can use a flat board or level, having previously exposed and clamped them with clamps, and it is even more correct to make a comb, following the example of a milling machine. The comb should be fastened with clamps.

Before fixing it, we set the processing depth. The recommended amount of material removal in one pass is not more than 1 mm.

Now you need to clamp the comb with clamps, which in length should go to the unregulated side of the working surface of the planer.

It is better to orient the sawdust suction downwards. This will prevent clogging of the nozzle. In this position, the processing waste can be collected without connecting the forced suction of chips, it is enough to tie a plastic bag.

Due to the fact that the inclusion of an electric planer is blocked, it is best to turn it on using a remote outlet, but if one is not available, then it is necessary to use a switch, placing it in a convenient place near the working jointer.

Next, we take the workpiece and check the operation of the electric jointer, made by hand. We check the treated surface for cleanliness and perpendicularity of the planes. The new planer based on an electric planer is ready to go.

As noted earlier, vertical jointer installation requires a professional table. If you are constantly engaged in carpentry work, and you have such a table available, then the vertical installation of the planer is for you. But if your carpentry activity is reduced to one-time work from time to time, then you will be more interested in another way of jointer with a horizontal arrangement of the working surface.

Method 2. Horizontal placement of the working surface of the electric planer

Consider the manufacture of a jointer based on an electric plane of the Status PL82SP trademark.

There are two reasons why we chose this tool. Firstly, it is quiet, which is a huge advantage in a small home workshop. Secondly, the delivery set includes brackets for mounting the planer exactly horizontally. We will use them when making a jointer with our own hands.

Let's take a board 85×12 cm. We suggest using a thermal wood, it does not gain moisture, so it does not lead during operation. But this is not important, you can use any material that is at hand. This board will serve as the base of our planer. We drill through holes Ø 6.5 for mounting the planer brackets.

On the reverse side of the board, we drill a hole Ø12 to the depth of the height of the head of the M6 bolt.

We insert the M6 bolts and tighten the nuts.

We fasten the brackets to the bolts and install the planer. The axis of the tool must match the axis of the base.

Since the back of the working surface is not adjustable, let's take it as a base. We set a level on it and measure the height from the top of the base to the work surface along both edges of the bottom board. They must be identical. In our case, this is 18 cm.

We prepare two blanks from the board, which will serve as table extensions. One of them is 27 cm long, the other 35 cm. Width 10 cm.

We also cut out a blank from a 5 cm thick board, the length of which corresponds to the sum of the lengths of the extensions, and the width in total with the height of the extension equals 18 cm.

We cut the blanks to length and cut in the middle at an angle.

We are preparing 4 more blanks. Two of them are 25.5 × 7.5 cm, and two more are 20.5 × 7.5 cm.

Now in these blanks you need to make a groove. To do this, you can use a milling cutter, but if you do not have such equipment, then we do it with a jigsaw and a hand drill. First, we drill holes for the entry and exit of the canvas, and then we cut a groove. Using sandpaper, we clean and adjust the size of 8 mm.

We drill through holes for fastening with self-tapping screws, using a countersink we make a chamfer on the hole.

We connect the blanks strictly in the middle, as shown in the photo, be sure to first secure them with clamps.

We take the counterpart of the workpiece, drill a hole. We insert a furniture bolt with a square bearing and twist the wing nut with a washer. The table lift assembly is ready.

The next operation is gluing the table extension to the lift unit.

We fix the tables to the base with self-tapping screws. When fastening, it is important that the edge of the back overlaps the knife.

We make a parallel stop, fix it shown in the photo. When installing the stop, it is important to maintain an angle between the table surface and the stop of 90 °.

We test the received machine. Such a budget version of the jointer will be a great help in your workshop.

Basic safety rules when working on a jointer.

In view of the fact that the table is equipment of increased danger, we consider it necessary to dwell on the safe rules of its operation.

The machine must always be securely fastened. If this is a mobile version, then two clamps are used as fasteners, if the jointer is stationary, it is securely fastened to the table with bolted connections.
Before starting work, it is necessary to check the reliability of fastening of the knives and, if necessary, tighten them. Do not work with blunt knives, as you have to apply excessive force, and this can lead to injury.
A protective cover is required. It cannot be removed. To process workpieces, use all kinds of pushers, exclude work by hand in the zone of rotation of the knives.
Excessive vibration, imbalance, beating and extraneous noise of the equipment is not allowed.
It is forbidden to work on the machine with gloves.

Jointer + thicknesser from an electric planer: an idea

Sometimes there is a need for a gauge. Turning an electric planer into a thicknesser is quite simple. Of course, if we are not talking about a potential machine, but about some do-it-yourself device to obtain two parallel planes.

To make such a primitive machine, you need to spend a little time with the same amount of material. We divide the process of making a thickness gauge into three stages.

Stage number 1 Preparation of the base.

We take the board, securely fasten it. On it in the middle, in the size of the width of the planer knives, we fasten two slats. The distance between them will be the maximum width of the workpieces. We fasten two planks along the width of the board with a length corresponding to the length of the planer.

Stage number 2 Preparation of the tool.

To adapt the electric planer as a working tool of the future thicknesser, it is necessary to remove the front part of the working surface of the planer and replace it with a sheet of plywood or OSB sheet. We fasten two planks along the width of the plywood with a length corresponding to the length of the planer.

Stage No. 3 Connection of the structure.

We use 4 slats as legs, which we connect with self-tapping screws to the strips on the tool and the base of the fixture. For convenience, you can use a bolted connection using a furniture bolt with a wing nut. The processing size is set according to the calibrated part.

Such an idea of a thicknesser will not satisfy the needs of a carpentry workshop, but in a household with a single production, it has the right to life.

Jointer from an electric planer with his own hands: advantages and disadvantages

The main advantage of a jointer made from an electric planer is its price. The materials necessary for the transformation of the tool will always be at hand. The costs will be minimal, unlike the acquisition of a new jointer. In addition, mobility and now the versatility of the unit captivates. Another plus is the high surface finish.

The final processing of wooden products on such equipment is a very interesting, and, most importantly, convenient activity. The disadvantages of the design are that it has a small jointing width and a small length of the working surface.

It is worth considering in advance such important issues related to cleaning the air in the working room and removing sawdust.

For example, since the jointer is homemade, you can come up with something like a bag for collecting sawdust, this will save you from fine wood dust, not completely, but still. The power tool not only speeds up the performance of certain operations, but also increases the amount of debris flying around the corners. The use of a vacuum cleaner will ensure maximum suction of chips from the working area.

Lighting also plays an important role when working with it. A machine with increased danger, therefore it is necessary to ensure sufficient luminous flux. Best of all, such work is carried out outdoors in daylight.

If the season or other conditions do not allow this, arrange your workplace with maximum comfort.

And also you can watch a video of jointers from an electric planer

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