What are peonies sick with, what pests they are affected by. How to grow tree peonies and how to care for them

Peonies delight in spring with bright flowering. In the Middle Kingdom, where the flower comes from, the plant is cultivated as a medicinal and is used in landscape design. It is believed that the peony protects from evil spirits and has magical qualities. The light-loving plant is easy to care for, but it is important to monitor its health.

Diseases of peonies

Often, peonies are exposed to viral or fungal phyto-diseases.

Common infections that cause fungus include:

• rust;
• gray rot;
• types of spots.

The ring mosaic of foliage belongs to viral pathologies.

On a note. Flower crops are usually infected with multiple viruses, making therapy difficult.

Among the harmful insects that like a peony are:

• ants;
• caterpillars;
• bronze.

Causes

The increased humidity of the air provokes fungal diseases of peonies. Infection of peonies with gray rot occurs during unfavorable weather during the spring and summer seasons. Humidity and heat can cause rust to appear. Excessive nitrogen and thickening of plantations increase the danger of fungus.

Diseases of peonies

Weather conditions do not play a special role on the growth of viral ailments.

It is generated by:

Gray rot is a dangerous fungal disease that completely affects the flower. They are found early on sluggish young branches in early spring. Later, the formation of gray plaque on various organs of the culture and brownish spots on peonies around the peduncle in the zone of the root collar are added to the symptoms.

Disease symptoms

They recognize rust on peonies by brown or reddish spots on the foliage, which consist of fungal spores. Powdery mildew is signaled white bloom at the top of the leaf plate of adults.

On a note! Viral diseases are manifested by specks, light stripes, necrotic blotches.

Treatment

It is important to start the treatment of infected plants on time. Rust is dangerous because the spread of fungal spores occurs with the movement of the wind and generates infection of other crops. Timely removal and elimination of diseased foliage, spraying bushes with 1% Bordeaux mixture are appreciated. The liquid is used to spray the peonies in the spring to prevent gray mold infestation. For prevention, they fight against ants - carriers of the disease. If an infected area is found on the bush, it is immediately cut out and destroyed, the peony is sprayed with a suspension of Tiram (0.6%).

Powdery mildew is resisted by spraying plants with sodium carbonate solution (0.5%). Peonies are processed twice, observing a 10-day break between procedures. Figon's solution (0.2%) is effective in the fight against powdery mildew.

Spraying peonies

Diseases for which viruses are responsible are not cured. Affected peonies or areas are removed from the flower bed and destroyed. In such a situation, the main method of struggle is prevention. It is required during the growing season to weed out weeds in the front garden - the focus of infection. It is necessary to keep garden tools clean: be sure to disinfect with a solution of potassium permanganate after cutting off diseased flowers.

It is important to remember about pests, which are the cause of the development of viral pathologies. Therefore, timely preventive measures are taken and the plants are treated with pesticides.

Peony disease

Like garden plants, peonies get sick. Sometimes phyto-diseases have a viral or fungal breed. It is important for flower growers to understand the diseases of peonies and in their treatment, especially when rolling the leaves.

Watching the video will allow amateur flower growers to understand the causes of the ailments of peonies and take adequate measures to heal them.

Gray rot

The development of gray rot usually occurs at the end of spring. In the process of illness, foliage loses its freshness, mold appears everywhere.

Gray rot on peonies

Manifestations

• brown spots on peony leaves, wilting and drying of plants;
• the appearance of a grayish coating on dark spots in conditions of warmth and humidity;
• the acquisition of a bloom of a black shade at the bottom of the stem and its break-off and fall;
• decay of buds, flowers, shoots.

Causes

• separation of fungal spores by color;
• excessive humidity, shaded plantings, poor ventilation;
• excess nitrogen fertilization.

The disease threatens the entire plant: branches, leaves, buds are infected. The sick flower sneezes and dies. Damp bad weather causes the rapid spread of gray rot.

Treatment

The affected areas are immediately excised and destroyed. On the offensive spring season the bush is treated with 1% Bordeaux mixture.

Bordeaux mixture

Ways to preserve flower health include prevention:

• choose varieties that are not susceptible to harmful microorganisms for cultivation;
• planted in a lighted flower bed with permeable and loose soil away from trees and shrubs;
• when planting, check the roots and remove rotten roots with a sharp disinfected device, grease the wounds with brilliant green or sprinkle with charcoal;
• warm up root system peonies for 10-12 minutes in water heated to +60 .. + 70 ºC, dried, then planted in holes, sprinkled with ash;
• avoid the introduction of nitrogen after the flowering of the plant;
• spend short cut peony shoots for the winter;
• periodically loosen the soil.

In the fight against peony rot, they resort to fungicides:

• Soon and Pure Blossom;
• Mikosan and Maxim;
• Vectre and Planrizu.

Rust

If the leaves on the peony turn red, and a bloom has appeared, the plant suffers from rust.

Rust

Manifestations

• damage to the leaves: the formation of brown uneven spots, and on the underside of the leaf - pads with fungal spores;
• reddening of the leaves;
• premature bushes turn yellow and dry;
• winter badly;
• grow poorly next year.

If measures are not taken, the disease is quickly transmitted to other cultures. With the flowering of peonies, the disease progresses. Fungi of this type have increased cold resistance. With the arrival of spring, rust doubles its activity and can destroy the entire flower garden.

Causes

The rust fungus is responsible for why the leaves of peonies turn red. It develops in the middle of summer on a pine tree, where it stays on its paws and hibernates.

With the flowering of peonies, the disease progresses

Treatment

It is useful for summer residents to know why the peony has red leaves and what to do in this case. The following measures are taken:

• remove the affected leaves;
• collecting and burning vegetation waste;
• dig deep into the soil;
• in early spring, when shoots appear, the upper 2-3 cm layer of earth is removed and fresh soil is poured, which is mixed with sand;
• sprayed with a solution of ammonia or tar soap: for 10 liters of liquid 3 tbsp. l. funds.

If the disease intensifies, they use fungicides:

• Bordeaux liquid, which is prepared from 10 liters of water with the addition of 100 g of lime and copper sulfate;
• colloidal sulfur (100 g per 10 liters of water);
• copper chloride (for a 10-liter bucket of 40 g).

Copper oxychloride

Rolling the leaves

Peony bushes react sharply to watering. Lack of moisture or excess has a negative effect on the culture: the leaves of the plant may curl, or root rot develops.

Causes

• insufficient illumination;
• potassium deficiency in the ground or soil voids;
• damage to the roots by harmful insects;
• exposure to viruses and fungi.

Rolling the leaves

Treatment

Sometimes it is difficult to figure out why the leaves of peonies suddenly curl and what to do. If foliage curls in the absence of damage and stains, the reason lies in improper care of the plant. You should not use chemicals, it is enough to tweak the care of the peony.

If you twisted the leaves of a peony, and the rhizome turns black as a result of the disease, then:

• when transplanting bushes in September, the diseased roots are removed, carefully cut off the decayed areas of the roots;
• sprinkle the places of the cuts with coal powder, which is mixed with Fundazol or sulfur in a 2: 1 ratio;
• carry out a 30-minute sanitization of the root system using chemicals: 1% copper sulfate, 1% TMTD, 2% Fundazole or a mixture of 0.6% TMTD and 0.2% Fundazol;
• when planting, they try not to deeply deepen the rhizomes and cuttings, spilling it with a mixture of Tsineb and Fundazol or TMTD;
• during the growing season, Fitosporin-M and Alirin-B, Gamair and Aktofit are used.

Peony pests and control

When peonies are left unattended, the bushes are attacked by harmful insects. Photos will help establish how to deal with pests and improve peonies.

Bronze beetles

Bronzovik beetle on a peony

What to do

To get rid of bronzers requires:

Pests are characterized by predominant damage to plant roots. Nematodes are recognized by nodular swellings where small worms are located.

What to do

• eliminate and burn infected peonies;
• disinfect the soil with Formalin (1%);
• carefully choose the material for planting;
• dig deeply before planting flower bushes;
• dispose of the remnants of vegetation when cleaning the garden.

Gall nematodes

Turf ant

Harmful insects with a yellowish-reddish body will surely appear on peonies due to the sweet syrup, which attracts ants. Pests gnaw the edges of the petals together with the leaves.

What to do

In opposition to ants sprayed with repellents flower crops, as well as the soil around the bush.

Sod ant on a peony

Summer residents practice spraying with decoctions of aromatic crops:

• wormwood and tansy;
• mint and lavender;
• bay leaf and anise;
• needles and parsley.

Processing peonies in the spring from diseases and pests

In order to prevent, with the arrival of spring, a number of measures are carried out in a comprehensive manner, which are aimed at protecting against pests and phyto-diseases.

0.1% Topaz;

0.2% Fundazole;

0.5-0.7% copper oxychloride.

To spray one plant, 2-3 liters of solution are consumed.

On a note. After the snow melts, many gardeners water the soil with a solution of potassium permanganate, using 1-2 g per 5-6 liters near the peony to protect against fungal infection.

Folk remedies

Celandine recipe popular with folk remedies... For cooking, you need 0.5 kg of fresh grass, which is placed in 5 liters of boiling water and infused for 2 hours. Sick peonies are sprayed with the filtered tincture, the procedure is repeated at intervals of 5 days.

Celandine for the treatment of peonies

If necessary, spraying with antifungal drugs is carried out every 10 days until the symptoms of the disease disappear.

Biological preparations

Biological products are distinguished by their productivity in the battle against phyto-diseases of the peony:

• heals rust with Extrasol-55;
• protects against gray mold Glyocladin;
• fights rust, annular sheet mosaic, gray mold Alirin-B.

The drug "Glyocladin"

Prevention of diseases and pests of peonies

To prevent phyto-diseases of peony, it is recommended to adhere to preventive measures:

• observe agrotechnical rules for watering and loosening, fertilizing and weeding;
• use healthy seedlings for planting;
• acquire varieties of peonies that are resistant to diseases;
• process the bushes 3 times with chemicals per season;
• keeping garden tools clean.

Peonies are not particularly demanding in care, therefore many owners of personal plots prefer these flowers for their decorative properties. However, sometimes plants are affected by harmful insects and diseases. In the fight against pests, flower growers will be helped by a description of the symptoms of diseases, as well as the means used that will solve the problem and make the flower garden even more beautiful.

With its exquisite beauty, the tree-like peony, the care and cultivation of which does not differ much in terms of the level of complexity from the garden worries with its closest relative (herbaceous peony), will become a worthy decoration of your site. This tall flower is a deciduous plant.

Tree peony, photo:

Its height can reach 1.5-2 m in height, it has upright powerful shoots that grow every year. Attention is attracted not only by its delightful flowers of different shades, but also carved, as it were, openwork feathery leaves. The multi-petal buds are crowned with strong stems, which can reach from 14 to 23 cm in diameter. colors, depending on the variety, the flowers can be snow-white, pink, scarlet, rich fuchsia, yellow, soft lilac, blue (Blue Sapphire) and even light green (Green Jade). Pay attention to the size of the flower itself, for example, the first pink flower in the photo below has a diameter of just the indicated 23 cm (and the second one is even larger).

Flower sizes, photo:

The color of the petals can also have a gradient - a smooth transition from one color to another. The texture of the buds is also varied: terry, semi-double, ordinary smooth. A remarkable feature of the tree is an increase in the number of flowers every year. The time of its flowering begins 10-14 days earlier than that of its relative, the usual peony. He has a higher tolerance to cold, he has a more stable "immunity" in comparison with his herbaceous counterpart.

Gradient coloring of flower petals, photo:

The bush is distinguished by abundant flowering, the number of blossoming buds at the same time can reach up to 40-50 pieces. Most often, the duration of the flowering phase of each flower is 8-10 days, but even just a bush, generously covered with green foliage, by itself is capable of decorating any summer cottage or flower bed.

Foliage of a tree peony, photo:

Due to its large size, it is planted separately from other flowers, or at a certain distance from other garden representatives. As an addition to other inhabitants of the garden, it also looks very harmonious; with its individuality, it appropriately emphasizes a hedge, an arch, an area near a gazebo, a garden bench or the entrance to a house.

The first visual difference is the more powerful, woody shoots with characteristic leaves. In fact, it is a shrub. In the herbaceous, closer to the cold, the stems and shoots die off, and the tree-like one only grows them, every year turning into a spherical shrub that can reach 2 meters in height. In the fall, he naturally sheds the foliage, but the shoots remain, become strong, as if lignified.

One more point, on a tree-like representative, you do not need to periodically cut the buds to stimulate subsequent flowering and distribution. vitality plants. This method only works well with its herbaceous cousin. Tree-like in its "behavior" is similar to cold-resistant garden roses- it tolerates winter well, but in especially severe frosts (in the northern regions of Russia) it is better to protect it with a special covering material. You can also use spruce branches for these purposes.

If your peony feels comfortable on the site, you do everything competently and in a timely manner, then the period of its flowering will last about 3-4 weeks. Usually it blooms earlier than its herbaceous counterpart by one and a half to two weeks. Weather conditions and temperature background in the region significantly affect this factor. For example, in central Russia, they bloom in the first weeks of the calendar summer. Without replanting, in one place, it can grow for decades. For example, the bushes that you can see in the photos below are already 20-30 years old. There are cases when the number of flowers on one bush reached 100 pieces!

Photos of long-lived bushes:

Another significant nuance (and difference) is the fact that they bloom only in the 4th or 5th year from the moment of planting in open ground. First, one flower appears at the end of a straight-growing shoot, and then, gradually, over time, the bush gains color, grows shoots, and is abundantly covered with buds. In the first years, it may seem to you that the bush has stopped growing, but this is a normal phenomenon for this species, for the first five years it generally adds very slowly in volume and growth. The temporary difference in the "ripening" of the bush is another difference.

To briefly summarize the main difference in what distinguishes a tree from a herbaceous one, you can use the following parameters:

• bush height;
• the size of the flower itself (its diameter);
• nuances, differences in care;
• the hardness of the escape.

Consider the natural slow growth of this flower, the process of growing shoots occurs gradually and not as quickly as we would like. In order for the bush to begin to give flowers, it must grow to at least 60 cm in height.

This question can be seen very often on themed flower forums or various horticultural groups in in social networks... The answer is predictable - improper care, poorly chosen planting site, as well as illiterate soil preparation for it (lack of drainage, non-observance of the correct burial of the flower into the soil). These nuances will be discussed below. The bush itself can be quite old or, conversely, young, not yet at the stage of the appearance of flowers (as we remember, it takes more than one year for the tree-like peony to give color).

The place for placing the bushes should be light and spacious, the soil should be fertile, loose, alkaline.

This plant really does not like transplanting - you should be aware of this. If it happens that for some reason a transplant is still required, then all actions should be performed very carefully. It is necessary to remove the bush from the soil with an earthen lump, be careful not to damage the roots. However, be prepared for the fact that the flower after this event will come to its senses for a very long time, hurt and adapt in a new place for 2 or even 3 years.

Proper watering also has a big impact on flowering. Water should be watered abundantly and generously at a time, but not often! Stagnant water is dangerous for him, therefore, if clay soil prevails on your site, provide your pet with high-quality drainage before planting (put a drainage layer in the hole under the flower). It develops better and grows in open sunny places, but in partial shade the flowers retain their freshness and duration of flowering longer.

Let me summarize the main reasons why the tree peony does not bloom:

1. Insufficient or, conversely, excessive deepening of the bush into the soil during planting.
2. Overdoing nitrogenous fertilizers.
3. Excessive enthusiasm or, conversely, insufficient feeding (this flower does not need a large amount of auxiliary additives).
4. Damage to the bush by frost or, conversely, abnormal heat. Disease should also not be discounted. When planting a flower, always take into account the predisposition of the selected variety to the temperature characteristics of the weather in your area. For example, when living in warm regions, choose early flowering varieties.
5. A banal lack of sunlight can also be the reason why the bush does not bloom.
6. Age - young bushes bloom at 4 or 5 years of age, as mentioned above.
7. Too close distance between plants - he loves space.
8. Transplantation (sometimes repeated) or separation of the rhizome can also be a consequence of the lack of flowers.
9. Pruning shoots. Unknowingly, some gardeners prune the shoots with the onset of autumn. Sometimes even before the foliage began to change color (darken) or fall off.
10. Excessive dryness or, conversely, waterlogged soil. Remember that between waterings, the soil should have time to dry out.

Many gardeners would like the flower to combine its own beauty along with the unpretentiousness of its herbaceous brother. Breeders are not idle and are constantly trying to develop new hybrids, they are called ITO-peonies (new generation peonies) - but this is a completely different story.

Separately growing bush (it needs space), photo:

Pay attention to planting material- its root system is open or closed. When purchased at the appropriate points of sale, the seedling may already have special packaging (for example, a plastic bag on top), and its roots, on the contrary, be bare or in a bag with a substrate. Such indicators tell us that this is a peony with an open root system. But if the plant is sold in a ready-made pot and even has (sometimes) buds, then this is a flower with a closed root system.

Be sure to look at whether the seedling is grafted or has its own roots. If there is a vaccination, then the roots are different dark color and thick. In diameter, they can reach 4-5 cm and in appearance are somewhat similar to carrots. Such representatives may have flowers in the first year of life after planting. Such specimens must be obtained from appropriate nurseries, under the guidance of competent professional gardeners - and not otherwise.

If you got a seedling obtained from a layering, then its roots will be light, thin and long. After planting it, you can see the flowers after 4 years (approximately). There is nothing new in the "scheme" for obtaining layering: a healthy and strong shoot with buds is bent to the ground, pinned, covered with soil. After a certain time, roots sprout from the buds, the shoot is cut off and divided into several fragments with roots.

When purchasing such a seedling obtained from a cut, pay attention that its roots are not exposed, and the plant itself has at least 5 capable buds. The length of such a seedling must be at least 25 cm!

In order for a beautifully flowering bush to develop well, be strong and healthy, the very first thing is to choose a comfortable time and place for planting it. The most favorable period for this is considered to be the end of summer / beginning of autumn. If possible, determine for him an elevated place, illuminated by the rays of the sun. Dense trees growing nearby or various buildings will create a thick shade - and this is unacceptable for any peony. Light shading is the most optimal place. Winds and drafts are also highly undesirable. As for planting in spring, it is not recommended due to the complex adaptation of the plant, because during this period growth and flowering are activated.

Loam is an ideal soil for this flower, if sandy soil prevails on your site, then add turf, clay, peat, humus to it in advance. Organic fertilizers and clean river sand can significantly improve the composition of the earth for the harmonious development of the peony. He also does not like acidic soil, so in advance "deacidify" it by adding lime. Plant a flower where there is no low groundwater flow, but if there is no other possibility, then the hole for it needs to be made quite deep (about 70-80 cm, diameter is the same). Lay a drainage layer at the bottom of the recess, about 30-35 cm, crushed stone or fine gravel are perfect for this business. In extreme cases, a 30 cm layer of river sand can also be used.

Tree peony - how to plant? There is nothing difficult here: build a small mound of earth in the pit, put a bush on it, gently straighten the roots, pour water generously. After the moisture is absorbed into the soil, sprinkle the seedling so that its root collar is flush with the soil surface.

If you are planting several bushes at once, do not forget about the distance between them, it should be at least two meters from one plant from another!

The so-called "finickyness" consists in finding the golden mean - creating optimal and harmonious conditions. The burning sun is harmful, but a thick shade is unacceptable, he loves water, but waterlogging is fraught with decay of the roots, and free space is necessary for the flower to grow and become a gorgeous lush shrub. The soil is important, because it is the nutrition of the plant, so it must be fertile and loose, drained. In principle, in this task there is nothing difficult for an enthusiastic gardener, since every green inhabitant requires attention, but also rewards accordingly - with beauty and an awareness of success, what has happened, grown, blooms and smells!

Peony tree planting and care - additions (optional):

1. Some gardeners say that the planting hole should "mature", as it were. I have already written above about diluting the soil with fertilizers and additives, but according to some experienced flower growers, this hole should be prepared a month before planting the seedling. That is, add all the additives in advance, and only then bury the seedling in the hole.
2. When the seedling is buried in the ground, its lowest bud should already be embedded in the soil by about 15 cm. Some gardeners recommend laying such a "pie" in advance on the bottom of the pit: a layer of humus, a thin layer of earth, add a complex top dressing on top, sprinkle 1 a tablespoon (with a slide) of copper sulfate. For greater reliability, you can mix a little slaked lime with the soil (to lower the pH).
3. If a seedling fell into your hands late autumn or in winter, then "sleep" it until the end of next summer. To do this, take a small pot with a suitable soil mixture, bury a bush in it, place it in a cool, but well-lit room. During this entire period, the flower will strengthen the roots, and in last weeks August or the first two weeks of September, you can plant it for permanent residence in the open ground.

It is up to you to listen to these additions or plant a plant without much tweaks. As practice shows, with proper observance of all the requirements, in both cases you will get a positive result.

The main care for him, in principle, is the same as for herbaceous. From time to time, you should loosen the soil, remove weeds, fertilize it. If your bush boasts an abundance of flowers and shoots, be sure to create a support for it so that the branches do not break under the weight of the flowers.

One bush requires about 6-8 liters of water, such abundant watering should be done at least 2 times a month. When doing this, take into account the possible precipitation! During summer heat this can be done more often - the condition of the soil and the flower itself will tell you. From about August, water volumes should be gradually reduced during irrigation until they are completely eliminated. It is recommended to plow the ground around the bush a couple of days after watering, then when the top layer of the earth dries up. The depth of immersion of the garden tool in the soil when loosening should be no more than 5 cm. You can mulch with humus, but its layer should not be too thick.

Peony is very fond of nitrogen and potassium, it needs to be applied regularly. Nitrogen fertilizing is relevant at the very beginning of the growing season, and potassium-phosphorus supplements will be appropriate from the moment when the peony begins to form flower buds until the very end of the growing season. When the bush begins to give flowers, in addition to its favorite potassium and phosphorus, a little nitrogen can be added. However, it should be remembered that an overabundance of this component can ruin it, so it is up to you to add nitrogen during this period or not. Sometimes it’s better not to do it than to overdo it - this is just such a case with regard to nitrogen fertilization. Do not forget to moisten the soil abundantly before each application of fertilizing - this will create a protective background for the root system of the flower.

While your peony is at a young age, then the first 2.5-3 years, fertilizers are applied by the foliar method: about 35-40 g of mineral additives are diluted in a bucket of water (10 l) and the bush is irrigated with a spray bottle after each watering. Thus, the plant receives "nourishment" through foliage and shoots. Adult representatives are fed three times a year: in the spring, during the appearance of new shoots, during the swelling of the buds, after the bush has finally faded.

As mentioned above, the tree peony is cold-resistant, but purchased specimens need mandatory protection in winter time... It will be better if for the first couple of years you cover them for the winter with lutrasil, spunbond, burlap or spruce branches. Additionally, you can make a "hat" of snow on top. It was said above about growing and protecting (even adult) peonies in cold regions.

Like any plant, it needs pruning, but it is more of a care nature. This procedure should be carried out in early spring, when the growing season has not yet begun. All damaged, shriveled and dead branches must be removed. Old shoots are shortened by about 10-15 cm.

In China, there is a tendency to produce radical anti-aging pruning every 10 years - when the shoots are cut almost at the root. This manipulation is aimed at awakening, activating new buds, which subsequently gives a "second life" to the flower.

Or, each branch is pruned to the border of the second bud - such pruning contributes to the abundant and lush flowering of the shrub. As they have in China, they know better, but in our regions, according to experimental observations, the tree-like peony does not really like pruning, so with the onset of spring, at least remove damaged and dry shoots. If you notice that some branches are very cold, do not rush to cut them, it is quite possible that the buds will still "move away", wake up and bloom - this also happens.

The main diseases and methods of dealing with them:

1. The most dangerous and insidious enemy is gray rot (aka Botrytis). This is fungal disease activates with waterlogged soil and lack of sun (for example, when the summer is rainy). A grayish bloom appears on the leaves - if you notice this, then immediately cut off the suspicious fragments and burn them somewhere further from the site. Another sign of this disease is the softening and sharp wilting of young and strong shoots. It is treated with irrigation with potassium permanganate (4 g per 10 l of water) and a 7% solution of copper sulfate (copper sulfate), also diluted with water. Irrigate not only the ground part of the bush, but also the soil around it, and even mulch.
2. Brown spot - the same actions. As a prophylaxis against it, irrigation with a low borous solution of potassium permanganate (4 g per 10 l of water) is used. The affected leaves also require immediate removal and destruction, and the bush itself (the ground part) is treated with 1% Bordeaux liquid.
3. Rust (some gardeners argue that this is a synonym for brown spot) very quickly affects the bush, it even happens that the whole plant is destroyed in a day. First, brown-purple spots appear on the leaves, and then the foliage curls sharply and dries up at the same time. Radical treatment - removal of all affected parts of the bush and their destruction. In the case of rust, prevention helps well: timely loosening of the soil to ensure the flow fresh air(removal of weeds and thinning of other, nearby growing plants). In early spring, even before the leaves appear on the shoots, or in late autumn, when they all fall off, the ground under the bush and around it must be treated with a nitrafen solution diluted in water, 200 g per 1 bucket of water will be enough.
4. Ring-shaped mosaic of foliage is another viral disease that manifests itself in the appearance of stripes and "rings" on the leaves. These lesions have a yellowish or light green tint, as practice shows, the annular mosaic does not particularly affect the flowering and development of the bush, but spoils the appearance of the foliage. The strips dry out over time and the sheet seems to crack. Contact fungicide "Maxim" copes well with this disease, it should be diluted as indicated on the package.

By the way, diseases are very often transmitted not only through contaminated planting material or soil, but also through gardening tools. Insects, even common ants, can carry fungus or viruses to healthy bushes.

A real garden aristocrat is a tree peony, cultivation and care, as well as an approach to oneself, oddly enough, requires completely unpretentious and does not have any special requests. This exquisite plant harmoniously combines the qualities of an ornamental flower and a shrub. A long-liver will delight you and your loved ones with their beauty for many years and even decades.

Peonies have long been famous for their lush flowering and unpretentiousness. That is why gardeners prefer this shrub. Of course, there are some nuances in the growing process. Consider the process of planting and caring for the plant, and also find out whether it is necessary to prune tree-like peonies before the winter period.

The tree peony is a deciduous shrub. The size of the plant can reach 1.5-2 meters. The leaves of the flower are ornamental, openwork. Stems are brown, thin enough. It should be noted that they do not die off in autumn, but only grow every year. Large flowers with a diameter of 12-20 centimeters are located at the ends of the shoots.

There are many colors: from white and light pink to bright purple, crimson. There are two-color species. Tree peony cold-resistant.

There are three main plant varieties:

1. Japanese.
2. Sino-European.
3. Hybrid.

The number of flowers is directly proportional to the age of the peony: the older it is, the more luxuriant it blooms. The average flowering period of a plant is about two to three weeks. Planting and caring for tree peonies is standard, but attention must be paid to the characteristics of the plant.

Growing conditions

Peonies are considered light-loving plants, it is because of this that a sunny area will be required for harmonious growth, best of all on a small elevation. Plants do not tolerate a transplant so the landing site must be constant. It is better if there are no other large plants around, such as shrubs or trees.

Growing a tree peony will require early preparation of the site and soil. Flooded areas with excessive moisture are not suitable for the growth of a tree peony. If there is no alternative, it will be necessary to install drainage and ensure the removal of excess moisture. Give preference to soil with alkaline reaction(from 7.5 to 8 pH).

Planting a tree peony

An excellent time for planting a tree peony can rightfully be called the period from mid-August to early October. It is necessary to select a land that is sheltered from the wind and well lit. We will take a closer look at the process of growing a plant from a seedling, but there is also an option for growing a tree peony from seeds.

Make sure the soil is loamy and moist before planting. If the soil is dry, add humus, clay or peat to it. Too heavy, clayey soil can be diluted with organic fertilizers or sand. If the soil is acidic, add lime or bone meal to it.

Planting process

You will need to dig a cone-shaped hole. The diameter of the hole at the surface, as well as its depth, is approximately 60-70 centimeters. Then make a small layer of drainage from gravel, expanded clay or broken brick, no more than 20 centimeters. When planting several plants, you will need to maintain a distance of 1.5-2 meters.

It is best if the soil has time to settle - therefore, holes will have to be dug in advance, two to three weeks before planting.

Place fertile soil on top so that it forms a small mound. Now you need to plant and abundantly water the tree peony seedling. After a while, the earth will settle on its own, and the roots will straighten.

If there are buds on the tree peony seedling, they must be removed. After completely absorbing the liquid, fill the hole. Trampling the soil is not required.

Plant care

The leaving process takes a lot of time, but only when comprehensive care you will keep the plant healthy. The following activities are considered the most important:

• loosening the soil after watering,
• watering,
• removal of weeds.

The watering mode is standard for peonies of any kind: they are watered twice a month, 6-7 liters of water per bush. Of course, it is necessary to take into account the natural conditions, and in hot climates, moisten the plantings more abundantly. In August, watering can be reduced, and in the fall, it must be completely stopped.

Feeding peonies is most important in the spring, as the plants need nitrogen fertilizers.

For the period of bud formation, purchase fertilizers with potassium and phosphorus. Do not forget that an excess of nitrogen fertilizers leads to the death of plantings. Mulching with humus is useful in the summer.

The formation of tree peony bushes allows you to give it a beautiful appearance. During the swelling of the buds (in the spring), it is necessary to cut off damaged and dried shoots, and cut off the branches to the upper axillary point.

By the beginning of November, it is necessary to tie the shoots of the plant, to mulch the near-stem circle. You will need to cut the plant two-thirds of the length of the leaves, which will enhance frost resistance. At the first frost, peonies are covered with burlap or spruce branches.

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Tree peony care in the fall preparation for winter. Especially for the readers of "Popularly about health" I will consider how to properly end the season for such a plant as a tree peony - care in the fall, preparation for winter, what are the essence of it. How to perform all the necessary manipulations to make it beautiful plant and the next year delighted gardeners with its stunning flowers?

Features of the tree peony

The tree peony is a deciduous shrub that ranges in height from 150 to 200 centimeters. Thick erect shoots are pale brown. Unlike a herbaceous peony, the stems of such a plant do not fade in autumn, but every year they grow more and more, and over time the bush acquires a semi-spherical shape. Ornamental, openwork leaves are doubly feathery. The flowers are located at the ends of the stems and range in diameter from 12 to 20 centimeters or more. Such flowers are double, semi-double and simple. They can be painted in white, purple, yellow, pink, crimson, and there are also two colors. With age, flowering becomes more and more abundant. The flowering of such a peony begins 2 weeks earlier than the herbaceous one, and its duration is 14–21 days. Such peonies are resistant to cold.

Preparing a tree peony for winter

During the preparation of the plant for winter, flower growers begin to think about how to preserve peonies in winter, whether it is necessary to cover the tree peony for the winter and how to do it.

In fact, opinions differ in the floriculture literature, some authors recommend covering peonies in the winter months, others consider it superfluous. In fact, the peony is not as afraid of frost as the early spring thaws, during which peony buds uncovered with snow or covered with material can wake up, and, as a rule, frosts following a thaw can destroy a plant that has started to grow. Therefore, the conclusion suggests itself that sheltering a peony for the winter is a completely useful measure.

In order to cover the peony, in October you need to tie the shoots, mulch the near-trunk circle with peat (humus), and with the onset of cold weather it is better to cover the plant with a hut of spruce branches, foliage, a thick layer of chopped bark, sawdust or just bags of jute, so that the tree-like peony went fine.

If it comes about a herbaceous peony, after flowering, its stems must be cut to a level of 5-7 cm above the ground, mulched in the same way as described above in the case of a woody peony. If you live in a very cold region, then shelter will not be superfluous.

In principle, these are the main aspects that will help you properly care for peonies after flowering and prepare them well for wintering.

Autumn pruning of tree peony for winter

When to prune peonies for the winter

Preparing plants for winter is quite a responsible event, because with premature pruning, there is a risk of ruining the entire flower. That is why the question of when to prune the bushes for the winter is very important.

Here it is worth focusing on the appearance of the bush. If all of its stems fall to the ground, you can proceed to the procedure.

Features of pruning a tree peony

Plants for the winter should be cut at the root. All removed parts of the plant (stems, leaves) should be taken outside the flower garden to prevent the development of pathogenic fungi. Cut bushes must be protected from frost.

Rules for pruning a tree peony

There are some rules that will help answer the question of whether you need to prune the bushes after flowering, and how to do it correctly.

For the procedure to be successful, you need to do the following:

Start pruning for the winter after the first frost, when all the stems of the bush fall to the ground.

The stems of the plant should be cut almost to the root, leaving the shoots above the buds no more than 10 cm high.

The remaining root system must be carefully covered from cold weather with humus or dry peat.

How to shelter a tree peony for the winter

According to experienced gardeners, it is not difficult to insulate a tree peony for the winter. First you need to sprinkle the tree trunk circle with peat, and with the onset of frost, you only need a few spruce branches, of which you need to build something like a hut around. To prevent the hut from falling apart, tie the twine around the branches.

Alternatively, you can prepare oak leaves in advance and fill the frame built around the bush with them. It additionally needs to be covered from dampness.

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The layer of peat with which you will sprinkle the ground around the bushes should be at least 10 cm. For northern regions you can increase it to 15-20 cm. This warm shelter will not only preserve the plant, but will also provide the nutrients necessary for growth and development in the spring. Peonies covered in this way will bloom earlier and more abundantly, since peat and humus will become a good growth stimulator for plants.

Propagation of a tree peony by seeds

With the help of seeds, you can not only multiply, but also get your own varieties of tree peonies, which will not be in any garden. When a peony is propagated by seeds, you need to have time to collect them correctly and on time. To do this, two weeks after flowering, the seed pods are tied with gauze - this technique will allow you not to lose a single ripe seed. Collect the seeds when the capsules open and the seeds are poured into the cheesecloth.

The seeds of the tree peony lose their germination rather quickly, so they are sown in the year of harvest.

For sowing, prepare an ordinary plastic deep box (for example, from under fruit) and a pallet of a suitable size. Prepare a soil mixture of peat and sand in a ratio of 2: 1.

The collected seeds have a very hard shell that must be broken, i.e. make scarification. I use two sheets of fine sandpaper for this. I put several seeds on one sheet and cover it on top with a second sheet of sandpaper, press on it with my palm and roll the seeds, or you can use a file.

The seeds are placed in a box with moistened soil to a depth of 1.5 cm, sprinkled on top with a layer of river sand of 0.5 cm.To prevent the soil from drying out, the box is inserted into a bag and tightly tied (I use large garbage bags). Seeds are sown sparsely, with a distance of 10-15 cm from each other, because they have to spend a lot of time in the box, and there should not be crowding. To meet all temperature recommendations, I choose a hot day for sowing and place the box in the greenhouse at noon. There the seeds are warmed up like in a sauna, and in the evening the temperature slowly drops, which also corresponds to the sowing conditions. In the evening (around 22:00) I take the box from the greenhouse and put it in the refrigerator, where after a while sprouts should appear.

As soon as the plants hatch, I take out the box and bury it in the garden bed (already without a pallet), build a greenhouse around by analogy with cuttings, and cover it for the winter as well.

Propagation of a tree peony by cuttings

How to propagate tree peonies by cuttings? Let's describe this procedure step by step. Guided by our instructions, even beginners will be able to cope with it. The best time to cut semi-lignified shoots with well-formed buds is mid-June.

Armed with a sharp knife, cut the cuttings, making oblique cuts right under the kidney.

All leaf blades must be shortened, leaving only 1/3 of their previous length.

Having processed the slices with a root formation stimulator, the cuttings are planted at an angle of forty-five degrees in a seedling box filled with a mixture of peat and washed river sand, taken in equal proportions. The buds should be completely buried in the soil and made sure that the cuttings do not touch each other.

To prevent moisture evaporation, the surface of the substrate in the box is covered with a one and a half centimeter layer of sifted sand.

Covering the boxes with plastic wrap or glass, throughout the entire rooting period of the planting material, they take care of a constant level of soil moisture, not forgetting the need for regular ventilation of improvised greenhouses.

In September or early October, rooted cuttings are quite ready to be transplanted into individual pots. The best place for their maintenance until the onset of spring and transplantation to a permanent place is a greenhouse.

The disadvantages of this method of reproduction of tree peonies are the high complexity and laboriousness of the rooting process of cuttings and the extremely slow development of young plants (they bloom only by the fifth year of life).

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Propagation of a tree peony by layering

Choose a shoot that is as close to soil level as possible. In May, make an incision in it, but not very deep, and treat it with a stimulant to form roots. The shoot is tilted to the ground and fixed. Pour about 15 cm of soil on top. By the fall, the cuttings have already taken root, then they are separated from the bush and transplanted to a new place.

You can get a new bush by rooting air layers. To do this, make an incision in the same way, treat it with a stimulant, but then wrap it with moss and film. In August, the roots should appear, this method, unfortunately, does not give a 100% guarantee of success.

Tree peony grafting

The best time for grafting a tree peony is the end of August. The rootstock is cut from the root of herbaceous or tree-like peonies 10-15 cm long; the thickness of the root should correspond to the thickness of the cutting. The roots are dug up in 2-3 weeks and kept in a cool place. Graft - only shoots of the current year, preferably with two eyes. Wedge-cut grafting. Make a wedge cut on the rootstock. Cut the lower part of the scion in the shape of a wedge. The surfaces of the scion and rootstock must be perfectly smooth for the cambial layers to match. Insert the scion into the stock, tie it tightly with insulating tape (sticky side out) and coat with garden varnish.

The grafted plants can be planted in the ground immediately after grafting. But it is better to plant the grafted material first for 3-4 weeks in a greenhouse protected from direct sunlight, leaving the scion above the soil level, and water it regularly. Another option is to keep the grafted material in the basement for 3-4 weeks - in a horizontal position, in 2-3 layers, shifting with wet sawdust.

Side grafting. Cut the graft diagonally at a slight angle. Cut the root at the same angle. Tie the combined scion and rootstock tightly and coat with garden varnish.

Diseases and pests of the tree peony

The tree peony is more resistant to disease than its herbaceous counterpart. The only significant threat can be gray rot, the development of which is facilitated by excess moisture. In this case, the affected leaves must be immediately removed and burned, and the plant itself must be treated with a solution of copper sulfate or potassium permanganate.

If you want to create a spectacular and unusual on your site perennial then let it be a tree peony. Preparing for winter and caring for it will not take much time, and the unusual appearance and bright flowers will delight the eyes and surprise guests. It can be planted both as single bushes and in group planting, for example, with ordinary herbaceous peonies. And let the shrub saplings are quite expensive, but its perennial flowering more than compensates for all the costs.

It is believed that the peony belongs to those flowering perennials that do not require special care. However, if a number of necessary agrotechnical measures are not carried out in the fall, then next year there will be no active flowering from this perennial.

How to properly prepare plants in the fall for the upcoming cold weather, what kind of care is needed for these flowers in the fall, how to properly cut peonies for the winter, whether you need to cover them for the winter - this and much more will be discussed below.

Caring for flowers in autumn

Autumn is the most important time in the process of caring for peonies. Usually in the spring and during the summer, the main care of these flowering bushes consists in timely watering, loosening the soil, removing weeds and cutting off flowering buds. And what should be done in the fall, when this perennial is actively preparing for the upcoming cold weather?

• feeding flowering shrubs;
• transplanting shrubs (if there is a need for this);
• autumn pruning;
• mulching around the bushes.

Other care for peonies in the fall is not required when preparing them for winter. There are no special and specific nuances in caring for a plant in autumn.

Features of preparation for winter

Pruning is the most important part of preparing peonies for winter. Therefore, you should dwell in more detail on this procedure in the autumn, when and how the flowers are subjected to the procedure, as well as when you need to make the last feeding of these flowers, and why do these flowering plants need it.

Do I need to cut the plant for the winter

Many growers are wondering whether it is necessary to prune peonies for the winter in the fall. And some novice growers do not understand why it is necessary to cut off the foliage in the fall on this perennial shrub, because these leaves are not affected by any diseases or pests, but simply in the autumn they turn yellow, dry out - this is how the next cycle of development of this flower ends.

But at the same time, they forget that the remaining uncut wilted foliage is an ideal place for the wintering of various harmful insects, their larvae or eggs laid by them. Also, pathogens can "hide" there.

Therefore, it is imperative to cut such peony leaves in the fall. This is a compulsory sanitary measure and should be done at the end of each summer season.

Some gardeners postpone such an event in the spring, but you should not do this so that in the spring unexpected guests do not appear on the site - "harmful" bugs that overwintered in the withered leaves of the plant. Therefore, you need to cut the leaves of peonies for the winter.

When to prune a plant in the fall

Timing is also important in this matter. So when can you prune peonies for the winter? The first pruning is carried out after the end of flowering - at this time only all wilted flowers are removed, while the foliage should not be touched.

The fact is that after the end of flowering, the process of photosynthesis continues in the leaves, which allows the roots of the plant to accumulate the nutrients they need for growth, recuperation after flowering, as well as strengthening resistance to the upcoming frost.

Therefore, the early removal of leaves, instead of benefit, brings only harm to the shrubs.

Flowers are already weakened after the active growth of the vegetative mass and abundant flowering, therefore they need increased nutrition, and photosynthesis helps to decompose useful substances entering the foliage from the root system.

Therefore, the process of pruning peonies in the fall is carried out after the first frost. The leaves will then fall on the ground, and this will be the main sign that it is time to prune the peonies.

Until this time, the nutrients that are formed in the foliage were actively entering the root system.

Some growers begin to prune peony foliage for the winter when it begins to change its color from green to yellow, bronze, pink or red. Amateurs perform this procedure solely because of the decrease in decorative effect in shrubs. However, foliage dries up ahead of time only in diseased shrubs, and healthy foliage serves a perennial to accumulate the required amount of useful elements in the underground part.

And if there is a need for earlier cutting of leaves, then at least 2-3 leaves should be left on each stem, which will process useful elements obtained with juice from the root system.

Instructions and procedure diagram

There are no special nuances during the procedure for ordinary varieties of peonies. Usually they are pruned when all the foliage has fallen to the ground. IN different regions the timing of such pruning of peonies in the fall is different due to the different times of the onset of frost, after which a similar procedure is done. In these shrubs, the stems are cut almost to the level of the soil, leaving them sticking out of the soil for a couple of centimeters.

And the procedure for pruning tree peonies in the fall is completely different. They have the following types of procedures:

• formative;
• for the rejuvenation of the shrub.

In the first case, such pruning of peonies in the fall is necessary to give the bushes a beautiful decorative form... Therefore, in the fall, all lignified stems are cut by 0.7-0.9 m.In this case, next year, more young shoots, and this procedure also promotes abundant flowering perennial. In addition, pruned bushes are easier to cover before the onset of frost. But in the conditions of the European part of our country, tree varieties can grow up to 2.5 m in height.

Rejuvenating pruning of peonies in the fall is done every 10-15 years in order to remove old shoots and activate the growth of new ones. The need for this procedure is easy to notice - the bushes grow worse during the season, and the flowering noticeably decreases or stops altogether. With the correct and timely rejuvenating procedure, you can save the life of this flowering perennial for 60-80 years.

Important! All cut shoots, together with the foliage, are immediately taken out of the site and burned, and the places of the cuts and the soil are sprinkled with ash for disinfection.

Video: how to properly prune peonies for the winter.

Caring for peonies after pruning, feeding

Peonies are usually fed a couple of weeks before the onset of frost. The usual terms for applying autumn fertilization are from the second decade of September to the first decade of October. The specific dates depend on the climatic conditions of the region in which these flowers grow.

Important! In the fall, do not use any nitrogen fertilizers as top dressing, so that the shrub does not start growing before winter.

Usually, on warm dry autumn days, mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium are applied. At the beginning of autumn, these elements are necessary for the root system, which during this period continues to grow and accumulate useful substances.

The advantages of this feeding method:

• the next year, stronger and larger buds grow on the stems;
• flowering bushes in the next season will be more active;
• the flowers will be larger in size and their color will be more intense;
• the applied phosphorus-potassium fertilizers help to strengthen the root system, allow it to strengthen its defenses before the coming cold weather, and the bushes themselves grow stronger and stronger next year.

Top dressing during this period is applied in the following ways:

• dry;
• liquid.

If the autumn turned out to be dry, then it is better to dilute phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in water according to the instructions and apply directly under the roots. A liter of such a solution is enough for each bush.

In rainy weather, it is better to use granular fertilizers, which gradually decompose in the soil and go to the roots in certain portions. Usually dry fertilizers are scattered around the stems of the plant, slightly embedding them in the ground.

Video: preparing peonies for winter, pruning time, fertilization.

How to cover peonies for the winter

Pruning peony bushes and fertilizing are not all measures to prepare this flowering perennial for winter. It is important to properly cover peonies for the winter so that they do not freeze during the winter frost. This procedure is especially relevant in those regions where there are severe frosts in winter, and the amount of snowfall is small.

The growth buds of this flower lie in the soil at a depth of no more than 6 cm, so the first thing to do is to spud the cut bushes.

On top, lay a layer of mulch with a thickness of at least 15-18 cm. As such material, you can use sawdust, spruce branches, high peat, dry foliage, humus or compost.

Remember! The cut foliage of the plant cannot be used as a covering material. It usually attracts "harmful" insects and pathogens.

During the winter, you can additionally cover the peonies with a layer of snow - it will serve as an additional "insulating" material during severe cold weather.

Features of preparing a tree peony for winter

Throughout the European territory of our country, tree peonies can not be sheltered for the winter, because, as a rule, they can winter perfectly well without shelter. But only if they grow in a quiet place where cold winds do not rage during the season. Moreover, the earth at this time of the year can freeze to a depth of 0.8-1.0 m, and the column of a street thermometer can drop to -28⸰С.

Young bushes of tree-like peonies must be covered for the winter. To do this, they are covered with a layer of peat (up to 20 cm thick), and an inverted bucket is placed on top.

Although many growers prune this type of peony in the fall, experts believe that it is better to do all types of pruning of tree peonies in the spring.

Video: is it necessary to cover the tree peony for the winter.

Features of preparation for cold weather, depending on the region

Different regions of our country have their own nuances of preparing peonies for winter. Consideration should be given to how to prepare these shrubs for winter in areas with different climatic conditions:

1. In Siberia be sure to shelter peonies for the winter, using various mulching materials. Such a shelter should be more solid than in warmer regions. Usually put on top of a layer of mulch carton boxes, buckets or plastic containers.
2. In the Urals hiding peonies is also a must. Moreover, the process of sheltering is similar to what is carried out on the territory of the Siberian regions.
3. In the Volga region you do not need to cover the peonies so carefully for the winter - you just need to add a layer of mulching material.
4. In the middle lane (Moscow region) for high-quality preparation of peonies for winter on open areas it is better to cover them in case of a frosty, snowless winter.

Typical mistakes

Many novice flower growers often make a number of mistakes when preparing peonies for the coming cold weather.

Let's note the most common ones:

• pruning too early - before the onset of the first frost;
• do not remove dead foliage in the fall, but do it at the beginning of the next season;
• in rainy weather, a liquid form of top dressing is introduced under this flowering perennial, as a result, not all fertilizers are "absorbed" by the roots;
• do not properly cover peonies for the winter.

Video: correct pruning peonies in the fall.

Preparing peonies for winter is a very important process, on the correct implementation of which it depends how much the bushes will be ready for the next season. Therefore, flower growers should pay attention to carefully following all the rules for preparing these flowering perennials for the cold season.

Processing peonies in spring and summer from diseases and pests is a primary measure to combat these misfortunes. Most often, these plants are damaged by gray and root rot, rust and ring mosaics. Gall nematodes and ants do no less harm to peonies. To protect the culture from infections and pests or to cure already developed diseases, there are many drugs, and you will learn about the most effective of them from the table on this page.

Treatment of peonies from gray rot

Gray rot (Botrytis) - Botrytis paeonia Oud- the main and most widespread disease of peonies in our strip. As a rule, symptoms of gray rot appear on peonies either in spring (in central Russia - in the third decade of April, especially intensively - in the wet season), or in summer - in early autumn (when it rains and the air humidity is high, with increased soil acidity , excess nitrogen fertilizers, heavy clay soils, high level groundwater, thickened plantings, unventilated areas). The most dangerous for plants is the spring outbreak of the disease, at the time of active growth of shoots. As you can see in the photo, with this disease at this time, shoots with very soft tissues are affected at the place where the stems emerge from the ground:

A rotten dark area appears on the side of the stem. Very soon the stem falls off. Black sclerotia are visible on decaying tissues. In other years, at high temperatures during the period of active growth, the stems in the middle part are affected by the gray rot of peonies: the plant bends in this place, the top withers. If the soil is carefully shaved off, on the underground part of the damaged shoot, the base of the stem will be noticeably damaged by Botrytis. It is believed to be the result of a short spring that quickly turns into hot weather in May. After sufficient regrowth and hardening of the stem tissues, in the third decade of May, the stunted and weak stems are mainly affected. The second time the appearance of the disease can be observed in the summer-autumn period. Buds, sepals, petals (at the base) rot, brown spots with a gray bloom appear on the leaves, stems and leaves darken and dry out. Brown rings are visible when the diseased stem is cut. Note once again that the external manifestation of Botrytis is facilitated by the cold season, rains and high humidity.At almost any adult plant, to one degree or another, traces of Botrytis are noticeable in the underground part: on the remains of last year's stems and in the zone of their transition to the rhizome, on old ones, starting to wither away, roots. But with the correct culture, its external manifestations will be absent or will be insignificant throughout the life of the plant. For the treatment of gray rot of peonies, you must:

• compliance with the rules of planting and plant maintenance;
• periodic introduction of deoxidizing additives into the soil (bone, dolomite, limestone flour);
• removal and destruction of damaged parts of the plant;
• mandatory and timely full pruning of the stems in the fall;
• limited use of nitrogen fertilizers;
• the use of fungicides and agents for the prevention and suppression of the disease.

Most of the fungicides produced by the chemical industry are suitable for controlling botrytis. Among them are well-known and approved for a long time: all copper-containing, basezol, colloidal sulfur. The timing of their application: in the spring, at the beginning of active growth of stems, in our strip in the third decade of April, and then another 1-2 times with an interval of 10-12 days, depending on the weather and the degree of damage to plants. It is necessary to strictly follow the recommendations for the dosage of drugs and observe safety measures. To combat this disease of peonies, the following rules must be followed:

1. It is better to alternate between different means, this contributes to their more effective action and reduces the accumulation of hazardous drugs in the ground. For example, you can alternate: foundationol - 0.3% (or equivalent), oxychloride - 0.3% (copper sulfate - 0.5%) and a solution of potassium permanganate - 0.03%.
2. The concentration of preparations with a burning effect (copper sulfate) in spring when spraying young plants should be half that for adults. At this time, young tissues are too soft and delicate, easily damaged. Strive to use a minimum of chemicals while protecting yourself, fauna and soil. Spray if possible, and when watering, just moisten the topsoil above and around the plant using a small-hole watering can. Then you can limit yourself to the norm of 0.5-1.0 liters per peony. No watering of the plant from above!

These photos show the treatment of peonies for gray rot disease:

Fighting Peony Root Rot

Root rot. Peonies are also affected by pathogenic fungi from the genera Fusarium, Sclerotinia, Rhizoctonia, Phytophtora. According to my observations, diseases are rare and it is quite difficult to distinguish between different rot. Outwardly, the disease manifests itself in the sudden blackening of the stems and their wilting in the middle of summer. Excavated roots look brownish, softened to mucus, emit bad smell... The affected bush is dug up and destroyed.

The causes of the disease are the same as in Botrytis: wet weather, flooding of the site with melt and rain water, thickened plantings, unventilated areas, acidic soils and replanting in a place previously occupied by peonies.

Control measures:

• using healthy planting material;
• correct fit;
• the use of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers and microelements;
• for the treatment of this disease of peonies, it is necessary to use fungicidal preparations: copper sulfate, Homa, foundationol (0.2%) and others indicated in the table.

Peonies treatment for rust and stains

Rust - Cronartium flaccidum (Alb. & Schw.) Wint... The disease manifests itself in the summer, usually after. Brown or purple spots become visible on the upper side of the leaves, orange-brown spots on the lower side. Later, the leaves dry up and curl. The stems look unharmed. The host of the causative agent is Scots pine. Control measures:

• collecting and burning diseased leaves;
• spraying (wetting) the leaves with fungicidal preparations, the same as for gray rot. It is recommended to add a solution of laundry or green soap, a pinch of washing powder as a means of holding the preparation on sheet plates.

Spotting. A number of different and difficult to distinguish from each other diseases that affect peonies are known. They cause premature death of leaves and stems. Diseases develop actively at high humidity and temperature. Disease-causing fungi remain on plant debris. Control measures:

• collecting and burning affected leaves and stems;
• spraying the whole plant with fungicidal preparations, as is the case with rust;
• thorough cleaning in autumn and burning of plant residues of peonies.

Peony disease mosaic: photos and videos of the fight against it

Ring mosaic virus (Ringsort virus) outwardly manifests itself in the summer after the regrowth of the stems, before flowering. Symptoms vary by cultivar and species. Most often, rings, half rings and stripes appear on the leaves, yellow or lighter than the main color of the leaf plate. The rest of the plant does not look depressed, it blooms normally. The disease spreads when flowers are cut in summer and stems in autumn, as well as insects sucking the plant sap, in particular aphids. The disease is poorly understood and behaves rather mysteriously: it can disappear on the plant, and then reappear after a few years. Opinions about control measures are very contradictory: from immediate destruction of the plant at the slightest manifestation of the disease to the option "do not touch the plant even if it is completely infected." It is suggested that the disease in a latent form exists in many varietal peonies, outwardly not manifesting itself for many years. Control measures... Starting from the moment of regrowth, very carefully monitor the foliage of the peonies. Usually, signs of the disease appear before flowering of the bush, initially on only a few stems of the plant, the leaves of the remaining stems remain normally colored. The affected stems must be removed without residue (unscrewed), sprinkle the wounds with ash. Cut flowers and stems from the affected plant with a separate knife and burn. It often happens that further traces of the disease do not appear. If the next year the damage to the plant is insignificant, repeat the above procedure. See how the fight against peony disease is carried out in these photos:

If the disease does not disappear, but has captured most of the plant, it is dug up and destroyed. In all cases, if the appearance of a disease has been noted on the peony at least once, in the future, when working with it, it is necessary to use a separate tool. Avoid varieties that are susceptible to disease. The video "Diseases of peonies" demonstrates the most effective measures fight against ailments:

The following describes how to get rid of nematodes and ants on peonies.

How to get rid of nematodes and ants on peonies

Ants. Often these insects are considered pests of peonies. They refer to the fact that ants suck the juice from the buds and, having settled under the peony, destroy the plant. But many pinovodists believe that if there is harm from ants, then it is very small. During the budding period, the ants feast on the nectar that is on the bud. If it annoys you, wash the buds warm water... However, in last years a new population of ants has appeared, which settle on the buds and severely deplete them, interfering with flowering. To get rid of ants on peonies as quickly as possible, you need to spray the buds with a fufanol solution. As for the settlement of ants under the peony, this means that the plant is seriously painful and badly rotted. And ants are not a cause, but a clear signal of trouble. Ants do not settle under a healthy peony. We'll have to dig up such a plant and sort it out on the spot.

Preparations for processing peonies in spring and summer against diseases and pests

From the table below you will find out.Further you will learn how to treat peonies in spring and summer against diseases and pests. Preparations for the fight against diseases and pests of peonies

A drug	Diseases and pests of peonies	Condition and processing time	Processing method	Application rate
Copper oxychloride (HOM)	Botrytis, root rot	With the manifestation of symptoms of botrytis; when root rot appears	Watering under the base of the bush	0.5% solution with repetition of treatment after 10 days
Copper sulfate	Botrytis	When symptoms of botrytis appear	Watering under the base of the bush; spraying the plant itself	0.5% solution (no more!) Repeated after 10 days
Alirin	Root and root rot, late blight	Before boarding	Application to the planting hole and 2-3-fold watering during the growing season	1 tablet / 1 l of water
	Powdery mildew, late blight, anthracosis, septoria, gray rot	During the growing season	Spraying (2-3 times) until the symptoms of the disease disappear	2-3 tablets / 1 liter of water. Effective at temperatures above 7 ° C
Maxim	Gray rot, root rot	Before boarding	Soaking the cut (for 30 min)	2 ml / 2 l of water
		During the growing season	Watering the soil	2 ml / 1 l of water
Fitosporin M	Fungal and bacterial diseases: rot, rust, powdery mildew	Before boarding	Soaking the cuttings, tillage	10 drops / 200 ml of water
		During the growing season	Spraying	20 drops / 200 ml of water
	Powdery mildew, spots, botrytis	Before boarding	Tillage	3-5 g / 1 l of water
		During the growing season	Spraying	1-3 g / 1 l of water
	Root and root rot, late blight	Before boarding	Tillage	1 tablet / l l of water
	Bacterial spots, late blight, powdery mildew, rot	During the growing season		2 tablets / 10 l of water
			Preventive spraying before and after flowering	2 tablets / l l of water
	Fungal diseases	At the beginning of the growing season	Preventive double spraying	2-4 ml / 10 l of water
		With a strong defeat	Spraying	10 ml / 10 l of water
	Rust, powdery mildew, black spot, rot	During the growing season	Spraying	Prevention 5 ml / 10 l of water
			Leaves processing on both sides	10 ml / 10 l of water
	Insect pests In contact with

I have been dealing with peonies for over forty years. Back in the 80s, he acquired a collection of the most beautiful exhibition specimens for that time. But from the moment of purchase, I found on many of my peonies signs of viral lesions and all types of fungal lesions. I had to learn how to cope with these diseases. None of my varieties died or degenerated. And until now, early terry burgundy hybrids, chic semi-double pink varieties, luxurious late pink and white peonies and very beautiful Japanese decorative varieties are blooming on the site.

You need to know the main enemy by sight. It is a virus

The most formidable enemy of pions is viruses. In 90% of cases, you get these diseases by purchasing low-quality planting material. But even if you have acquired a healthy peony root in the nursery, aphids and other sucking insects will carry the virus from neighboring diseased plants. And after 3-5 years, you will see discolored half rings and stripes on the leaves of your new products, and after a couple of years, weakened plants will suffer from many fungal diseases.

Even if there are no viruses anywhere on the acquired peonies, they will be found on weeds, on cucumbers, potatoes, peppers, strawberries, and raspberries. And there are always sucking insects in your garden.

What viruses are found on peonies?

Fortunately for us, not all varieties of peonies react to the virus by developing a serious illness, such as a tulip or gladiolus. Most of the old varieties do not give external signs of the disease at all, but modern American early double hybrids are seriously ill and quickly die from the attached pathogenic fungi. However, with good agricultural technology and protection from fungal diseases, any variety can bloom beautifully for an infinitely long time.

As a rule, viral diseases in peonies are rarely caused by any one pathogen, a mixed infection is usually found. In botanical gardens, they are now easily determined by laboratory methods. Amateurs do not need to know this, but for the sake of breadth of horizons, I will list the main viruses.

For example, bean yellow mosaic virus (BYMV) was found on flowers with signs of variegation; on specimens with symptoms of overgrowth of leaves - cucumber mosaic viruses (CMV), razuha mosaic viruses (ArMV), barley yellow dwarfism (BYDV). Narcisus mosaic virus and Tomato aspermy virus were detected on individual plants with signs of small confluent spotting on the leaves. In most cases, the complex infection included TAV, CMV, ArMV, CarMV (Carnation mottle virus), TMV (Tobacco mosaic virus) in various combinations.

The rattle virus is the main scourge of our peonies

Almost always, the first virus to infect our peonies is the Tobacco rattle virus, which was formerly known as the peony ring spot virus.

Any gardener can see the symptoms of damage if he carefully looks at his plants in May-June. Rings and half rings, stripes appear on the leaves between the veins of various shapes and colors - from light green, greenish yellow to bright yellow. They can merge, and a characteristic marble or linear pattern appears on the leaves.

The severity of the virus infection depends on the variety

My capricious peonies of the American early terry hybrid Red Charm are infected with viruses all since the moment of purchase - for 40 years now. And nothing! No other variety gives me a lush, vibrant early market cut.

Many gardeners asked me for this variety. Despite warnings, they stop caring for him like a capricious sickly child. Planted next to raspberries, strawberries; do not rejuvenate the bushes by dividing them and replanting them to a new place every 3 years; do not spray to prevent aphids and fungi. 3-5 years pass, and this variety dies in almost everyone.

On the leaves, variegated, but blooms gorgeous. Here are his flowers in close-up:

What mushrooms affect peonies?

Of the fungal diseases on peony, gray rot, rust and various spots are common.

Gray rot

Pathogens - Botrytis cinerea, B. paeoniae. Usually, in the spring, immediately after the regrowth of young shoots, brown spots appear at their base, then the stems rot in this place, the gardener can see a gray bloom, and small black dots of the mycelium on the rotting tissues. The stems wilt, and subsequently break and fall. Sometimes rotting occurs already 10–12 cm above the base.

When the leaves are damaged, large brown spots appear, which gradually dry out in dry weather, and become covered with a gray bloom in conditions of high humidity and rot. During the budding period, the same can be observed on the buds. Small buds turn black, dry out or rot, and larger ones turn brown, do not bloom well.

The disease develops very quickly, with a strong lesion, the bushes fall apart, the stems fall and dry out. The fungus persists on plant debris and in the rhizomes of peonies, causing them to rot, spreads during rain and is carried by ants.

Cold rainy weather in spring and summer, as well as sudden changes in air temperature, contribute to the active development of the disease. The rapid course of the disease is observed on damp, clay soils and with waterlogging of the site, as well as on thickened, poorly ventilated plantings.

In general, the development of the disease is facilitated by high air humidity, excess nitrogen in the soil and shading of plants. Early varieties and especially hybrids are affected more than others.

Rust

Cronartium flaccidum. This disease occurs in all zones, from the northwest to the Crimea. The first signs of the disease are observed in mid-summer, shortly after flowering. On the upper side of the leaves, brown, yellowish-brown or brown spots with a purple tint appear, sometimes surrounded by a brown border. On the underside, small yellowish-brown, orange pads are formed containing spores of the fungus, which are easily carried by the wind, infecting new plants. At the end of summer, yellowish-brown, horn-like curved columns appear among the pads of the urediospores, completely covering the spots on the underside of the leaves, which curl and dry out. Under favorable conditions, the disease can spread in 2-3 days, affecting peonies over large areas.

In autumn, spores infect pine, the intermediate host of the fungus. These trees can be a perennial source of infection.

Damp warm weather contributes to the development of the disease. Under such conditions, the pathogen spreads intensively, already in July causing the leaves to dry out and shorten the growing season, which weakens the plants and negatively affects winter hardiness and flowering the next year.

Cladosporium or brown spot

Cladosporium paeoniae. The disease usually manifests itself in the first half of summer, and is more common in the southern part of Russia. Large brown, brown or dark purple spots form on the leaves, which gradually grow, merge and can cover the entire plate. Over time, the spots darken and the leaves look burnt. In wet weather, a dark gray, smoky bloom of fungal sporulation appears on their underside. Sometimes stems, buds and flowers are affected.

On young shoots, elongated reddish-brown spots are usually formed, then the stem darkens and becomes covered with a smoky bloom, the buds turn brown, the petals crumble. Conidia of the fungus overwinter on fallen leaves.

Septoria or brown spot

Septoria macrospora. Leaves and stems are affected. The first signs of the disease appear in June-July on the leaves: brown and yellowish-brown, rounded or elongated spots with a lighter middle and dark purple border are formed on both sides. Gradually, the spots merge and acquire a light brown color with an ash-gray tint.

The disease first manifests itself on lower leaves, then spreads higher up the stem. With a strong defeat, the leaves dry out completely, but they may not fall off for a long time. The disease weakens the plants and adversely affects the winter hardiness and flowering of peonies next year.

Root rot

The causative agents can be fungi of the genera Fusarium, Botrytis, Rhizoctonia, Sclerotinia. They cause decay of roots, stems, cuttings and plant death. The disease is common in all zones and is found during transplantation or reproduction of the bush by division. The affected areas of the roots and rhizomes turn brown, soften, rot and die off. At high humidity, a whitish, grayish or pinkish coating forms. The source of infection is soil and infected rhizomes. Weakened plants, cuttings and bushes separated during transplantation usually fall ill. The development of the disease is facilitated high humidity and high acidity of the soil.

Peony pests

I'll start with a pleasant one: peonies have much less pests than diseases, and they do not bring much damage in a well-kept garden. Caterpillars of scoop moths gnaw the buds of plants planted in the shade or partial shade. Bronze beetles, rootworm nematodes and ants can also annoy the grower.

Bronze beetles

Everyone has seen these beautiful shiny beetles. Petals, stamens and pistils of flowers of any plantings serve as food for bronze. Beetles love flowers of light color with a strong smell. I find them every spring - first on lilacs, then on irises and on early peonies.

Gall nematodes

They settle in the roots of peonies, causing knobby swellings. After decay of the roots, they move to new peonies growing nearby.

Turf ant

Everyone saw him: the ant's body is reddish-yellow, 4-7 mm long, feeds on sweet secretions of buds and eats away petals.

Fighting viruses

There is no cure for viruses. Every spring I look at my peony shoots and mark these bushes when variegated leaves appear. Better to burn them.

If the variety is very valuable to me, in the fall I plant it away from the main plantings with peonies. At the same time, I divide it into small divisions with 1-2 buds. I choose the strongest shoots and leave the smallest but healthiest root section. I provide good agricultural technology.

If the diseased peony is transplanted in this way every two years, carrying out a clonal selection of the healthiest parts of the root, then the peony is freed from rot, and sometimes from viruses.

Capricious hybrid Diana Parks I don't get sick

Fight against fungal diseases

It is difficult to fight the most dangerous Botrytis, but it is possible. Early in the spring, on the plantings of capricious American hybrids, I rake off the ground above the peony bush, expose the tops of buds that are awakening and treat with a solution of fungicides. Then I mulch the bush with a layer of fresh sand, without organic matter. I alternate Fundazol, Vitaros and Skor. I carry out three treatments: in April, at the beginning and at the end of May.

The same preparations that I wrote about in the article about gladioli help from rust and other fungi. If there are few fungal diseases, I try not to spray the garden with fungicides. If the variety is prone to defeat fungal diseases, then I prophylactically spray it in May with Skor or Horus, and at the end of summer - Ridomil Gold.

But organic farming helps me to prevent diseases. I never use fresh manure and fresh grass for planting peonies; I mulch every autumn with only old, aged compost. Complex fertilizing mineral fertilizers for peonies I do it strictly locally and never abuse nitrogen fertilizers. And more - regularly; beneficial fungi and aerobic bacteria suppress putrefactive microorganisms well.

In mid-August, we cut off all the leaves of the peonies and put them in a compost heap for several years for complete disinfection. The result of all these measures is healthy plants, gorgeous flowers

Should you rush to prune and cover peonies for the winter? How will this affect the health and further flowering of the bush? and Ito hybrids are prepared for overwintering differently than. The aerial part of herbaceous peonies dies off by winter, but the plant continues to live. Our task is to create optimal conditions to save it.

In dry autumn, it is possible to cut the stems of the peony as they die off.

Timing of pruning herbaceous peonies

Herbaceous peony - perennial flowering plant, in which shoots and leaves die off in the fall. In some bushes, the aboveground part turns yellow and lays down, in others it dries up, maintaining an upright position for some time. Only then do I start pruning. Of course, we are talking about healthy, not sick peonies.

The shoot of a young herbaceous peony wilted after the first autumn frost

The time to trim the stems of herbaceous peonies depends on the specific climatic conditions. This is either the end of September or the beginning of November, it all depends on the weather. There were years when in the suburbs in the first days of October rivers froze and snowdrifts appeared. In other years, in November, they bloomed again and. In mid-October 2016, we tried to bloom lilac bushes. The average period for pruning herbaceous peonies is mid-October, if there was no frost before.

Early pruning... In herbaceous peonies, two waves of root formation are observed: spring (April-May) and summer-autumn (August-September). Consequently, too early pruning (at the beginning of September) does not allow the rhizome to accumulate nutrients coming from foliage. This makes the weakened perennial plant vulnerable in winter. Such a plant will bloom worse. Premature autumn pruning shortens the period of preparation of the peony for wintering.

It is clearly visible what the early pruning and warming of a herbaceous peony bush leads to during a long rainy autumn

Late pruning... Another danger lies in wait for a peony with a belated pruning of the aerial part of the bush. Especially in the cold rainy autumn when dried stems and leaves quickly rot. This can cause damage to the rhizome.

When pruning, I leave low (2-3 cm) hemp. They will mark the place of growth of the bush, protect the buds, but will not interfere with the spring growth of the shoots.

After pruning with my hands, I collect all the plant debris, and then superficially loosen the soil around the bush and.

Shelter for the winter of herbaceous peonies

Zoned herbaceous peonies can withstand winter hardships, but you still need to shelter them for the winter. Without this, in the frosty, snowless period, freezing of the renewal buds and part of the rhizome are likely. In open areas of plots, a strong wind sweeps away the snow, leaving the ground "black". Mulching the soil with a height of at least 10 cm reduces the risk of freezing.

In autumn, it is often rainy and sleet. With a herbaceous peony with insufficiently rotted manure or undecomposed grass and leaves, rotting of stalks and rhizomes is possible.

I insulate my peonies with a mixture of high peat with neutral acidity, sand and earth. I buy deoxidized peat in large orange packages in the nearest garden centers. You can do well with well-decomposed loose compost or loose garden soil. The approximate volume is a bucket of 8 - 10 liters for each herbaceous peony bush.

Before covering the growth site of an adult peony with soil mixture, I sprinkle a shovel of sand on the ground. For young bushes, one scoop is enough. Such a sandy pad is useful not only for, but also for many rhizomes. It is not worth insulating peonies with sand alone, because it does not keep warm well.

Ito hybrids of peonies

Some gardeners grow and bloom Ito-hybrids of medium-late varieties. Early varieties are less common. When pruning these perennials, a number of features have to be taken into account. Strong bushes are not afraid of autumn frosts. In autumn, their foliage, similar to the leaves of tree-like peonies, is painted in bright colors, decorating an empty area. It often lasts until the first snow.

Ito hybrids are pruned at a later date than herbaceous ones. When pruning Ito hybrids, take into account that part of the numerous renewal buds is on the stem, and part on the roots. Some of them sit close to soil level. When removing the shoots, small stumps are left (like in herbaceous peonies) or they are cut off completely. Aboveground buds need not be protected: in spring, new flowering shoots will rise from underground buds. It is important not to damage the tips of the basal renewal buds.

There is another pruning option, in which two or three strongest stems with several large buds are chosen closer to the base. These stems must be cut at a height of 10 - 20 cm. Pruning must be carried out in dry weather. After that, they are insulated. Easiest to use wooden boxes, the inside of which is stuffed with shavings or non-woven fabric... It is better not to take hay and straw, so as not to attract. You can wrap the shoots in lutrasil and build a spruce hut above them. The shelter is removed when the primroses begin to bloom. In case of a cold snap, lutrasil or other light material is used. With this pruning option, the flowering of Ito-hybrids occurs a couple of weeks earlier than when the entire aerial part is completely removed in autumn.

Adult bushes of Ito-hybrids are quite winter-hardy. However, it is worth sheltering them for the winter at least for the sake of safety net in case of a harsh winter with little snow. The mulching area should be such that the bulk of the roots located in the horizontal plane is under the insulation. The soil mixture should not increase the acidity of the soil, so it is better to add it to peat or compost.

Spring awakening of peony

Peonies early varieties wake up first in the spring. A mound of soil mixture, which saved them from freezing, prevents the earth from melting and inhibits the growth of shoots. Therefore, we need to carefully scatter the warming soil mixture without damaging the fragile buds. During the spring cold snap, you can cover the growing shoots with non-woven material or use another method. For example, throw hay or wood shavings on top.

When opening a peony, you cannot create a funnel around it. The soil must be leveled so that excess moisture does not stagnate in the grooves. I build low sides to retain moisture after watering in the dry season later, when new shoots with foliage grow.

Late this year I planted the luxurious ("Ice Cream") bulbs between the young peonies in a row. Therefore, she insulated the place of growth of peony bushes not by adding soil mixture with mounds, but mulched the entire planting strip at once. I hope that this will give the bulbs an opportunity to take root before frost and will provide additional protection against their freezing.

Above the grassy peonies and tulip bulbs is an even layer of loose soil mixture

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