Is it possible to lay a brick on a wooden beam. Is it possible to lay brick on a wooden floor

When it is required to install a stove in a bath on a wooden floor, you can do this, while observing all the requirements for fire safety.

According to these requirements, a wooden floor is allowed only if the floor is protected by non-combustible materials, and is also insulated from the heat of the stove.

How can you implement such a scheme at the lowest cost and at the same time not burn your own bathhouse?

Use of heat-insulating materials

To reliably protect the wooden floor from fire, you can use special heat-insulating materials.

Firstly, you can use sheet minerite - a material that can isolate the stove from any wooden parts. It is not enough just to put the furnace on a sheet of mineralite. For effective work it will be necessary to equip a ventilated gap, which will contribute to the dissipation of heat in the layer between the metal of the furnace and the minerite.

In the same way they can be protected wooden walls and the ceiling next to the stove - air layer, a sheet of minerite and again an air gap. At the same time, a sheet of mineralite on the wall can be fixed using bushings made of heat-insulating material.

And to protect the floor, you can put a minerite on a non-continuous brickwork in several bricks. The wider the gaps between the bricks, the more efficiently the heat coming from metal furnace.

Steel sheet on a brick base

Secondly, you can use an ordinary thick steel sheet that will separate the stove from the wooden floor. In this case, the sheet is mounted on a brick base with ventilation ducts. A thickness of less than 2 bricks at the base is not allowed.

It turns out that the sheet itself will be separated air gap and from the floor and from the stove, and itself will be a kind of radiator that dissipates heat into the air.

Combination of materials

The combination of metal and mineralite, which will lie on a brick base, will give the best effect. Between all layers of this "pie" there should be at least a small air gap.

In this case, the floor under such protection will heat up no more than the air in the steam room.

At the same time, it should be remembered that in front of the stove, a metal furnace sheet must be laid on the wooden floor without fail. The firebox protects the wooden floor from coals that can fall out of the firebox door of the sauna stove.

Other fire fighting measures

So that a metal stove installed on a wooden floor in a bath does not give you trouble, you should also take additional measures precautions:

Do not leave the sauna stove unattended during the fire.
Always close the firebox door tightly with a latch and check this moment if you are going to leave the sauna room.
Use dry firewood for the furnace, do not burn garbage, sawdust, wood dust in the furnace of the sauna stove.
Make it a rule in the bank with small bookmarks of firewood.

"and subsection" ", where we will talk about such in an interesting way sex like brick floor. A few words about what it is, how to make it with your own hands, and also how to care for it.

Brick flooring is an alternative to conventional flooring. You can say, "Ugh, brick floor... where is it going to be used in the house?" Or you can think a little and come to the conclusion that at least a brick floor can be used wherever it is laid on the floor. tile. Especially tiles imitating a brick floor 🙂

So, wherever there are tiles on the floor in the house, a brick floor can be equally installed in any of these places. As in any place where the floor is concrete. Equal, but not equal. Because a brick floor has two big advantages over tiles, concrete, etc. So, brick floor:

a) more picturesque
b) much cheaper
c) strong and tough
d) provides a non-slip and fire-resistant surface,
d) easy to maintain
has a large thermal mass, which allows the use of "useful heat" (more about useful heat - in the article "House heating - for residents!").

Accordingly, there really is something to talk about. And we'll start with what is a brick floor.

A brick floor is bricks that are laid on the floor. And they are meant to be walked on. As bricks, a familiar paving slabs. And the most ordinary ones can fit building bricks. Brick flooring is well suited for low cost construction and heavy storage areas. Brick flooring is usually used in places where well-fired bricks are readily available.

So, with what a brick floor is, we figured it out. Now you can go to laying brick floor. In short, laying a brick floor with your own hands is as follows:

The brick is sorted and moistened. A bed of lime-cement mortar with a thickness of about 2 cm is arranged on top of a moistened base of concrete grade 80. A brick is laid on the bed according to the instructions in such a way that the width butt welds was 1 cm. Each brick is placed on the mortar, pressing gently on it with your hand and tapping it with a pickaxe hammer. Having laid a row of bricks, level it with a rail, while simultaneously controlling the horizontal position of the row with a spirit level. The seams are filled with lime- cement mortar the same composition as the bedding solution. From above they are rubbed with cement mortar (400 kg of cement per 1 m 3 of sand).

The second option for laying a brick floor is without cement at all, on sand. This option is more suitable for the floor in the gazebo, on the street - wherever the presence of sand is not critical.

Brick floor is laid mortar on a sand base. The laid layer of bricks should be surrounded by a curb for fixing the masonry. Walls can act as a finished border. Where there are no walls, pressurized boards 50 mm thick and 20 cm wide can be used as a border. Bottom part the boards will be in the ground, and the top one will be flush with the level of the brick floor. To prepare the base for such a floor, it is necessary to remove a 15-centimeter layer of earth and compact the base. Next, a layer of gravel and a two-centimeter layer of sand are added. Then the sand is leveled and the surface is compacted. Brick laying follows the method you have chosen. In order for the bricks to lie evenly, tensioned cords are used, along which the laying direction and the level of the bricks are aligned. After that, the floor is covered with sand and the sand is rubbed into the cracks between the bricks.

The location of the brick when laying a brick floor plays a significant role. A brick located on an edge is preferable to a brick located horizontally, since in the first case the brick is less prone to cracking when significant pressure is applied to it than when the brick is located horizontally. And also when the brick is located with an edge, the depth to which the brick is laid increases, this allows you to resist the penetration of moisture.

Now that I have finished speaking in general terms about laying a brick floor, let's move on to caring for it. So, in the interior of the house, the brick floor is easily cleaned with a vacuum cleaner to remove dust. Periodically apply light cleaning products - to clean stains.

To seal a brick floor, place rolled towels against adjacent carpets and other floor coverings to absorb water. Use a brush or large sponge along with detergent, and thoroughly wash the surface of the brick floor, then thoroughly rinse the floor clean water. Be sure any dirty water is completely removed from crevices and seams brickwork. Let the brick dry well.

At your local hardware store or paint and varnish store, ask for masonry caulk, they usually sell in five liter jars. This is The best decision for flooring, brick coating. With the application of sealant, your floor does not change the color of the brick and mortar joints, however, it receives shiny surface. Apply sealant to dry brick, being sure to cover all bricks, seams and possible cracks. Wait until the sealant dries and apply a second coat. To maintain the sealant, a new coat must be applied every year. The sealant repels dust and other contaminants for easy cleaning with just a damp cloth.

So, we have covered all three promised parts - what is a brick floor, how to make it yourself and how to care for a brick floor. By the way, interesting fact: brick floors were widely used in Russian architecture. As examples, one can point to the floors of the Assumption Cathedral in Vladimir (samples are available in the Historical Museum in Moscow), St. Basil's Cathedral in Moscow, on the floors in Yaroslavl churches of the 17th century. and etc.

Thus, a brick floor is a really reliable and economical alternative.

According to http://www.brick.su/kirpich_uchod.html

It is necessary to install a metal bath stove taking into account its weight, as well as starting from the fire safety requirements prescribed in SNiP. The wooden floor on which the heating unit will be installed must be protected from spontaneous ignition. An important point is the calculation of the strength of the floor, because even the smallest heater with a water tank is a serious load on wooden floors.

Bath metal stoves are electric or solid fuel. And the installation of wood-burning units has the greatest number of difficulties, which will be discussed further.

A sauna wood-burning stove is traditionally located in the steam room, however, the firebox door can go into the next room, into the street, or the firewood is loaded from the steam room.

In the first case, when the firebox is brought into the dressing room or washing room, oxygen is not burned out in the steam room, and one unit heats two rooms at once. At the same time, this option implies the arrangement of fire protection not only for the wooden floor, but also for the walls of the bath. In addition, there is a difficulty in the installation of the furnace - if the installation hole was not provided during construction, it becomes necessary to break / cut out the part interior partition.

The second option, when the firebox goes outside, is associated with similar installation problems. In addition, the disadvantages include increased heat loss and the inconvenience of regulating the intensity of fuel combustion, throwing firewood (you will have to leave the bathhouse outside).

The third option is one of the most common. The stove is mounted on an existing wooden floor with the obligatory arrangement of a fireproof base under the stove and protection of the wall located behind the stove. The problem of burning oxygen is solved by installing effective ventilation. Often the air supply is equipped from an underground room (irrelevant for monolithic foundation- plates). It is easy to keep an eye on the stove installed in this way during the steaming procedure, but there is not always a place in the steam room for storing firewood and protecting it from getting wet.

Regardless of where it is directed furnace door oven, the unit must be installed at a safe distance from visitors to the steam room, so as not to provoke burns from accidentally touching hot metal or hot steam from stones.

Calculations

A metal stove, together with a heater, a water tank and a chimney, has a certain weight. Particularly massive are cast-iron units, as well as brick-lined ovens.

If a foundation is laid under the stove, as well as in the case of a reflective brick screen, the load on the beams and floor boards is very significant. Before installing the stove, you should find out its weight, then calculate the strength of the floors so that the floor does not break under the unit under any circumstances.

Floor beams can be made from solid hardwoods of deciduous / coniferous trees, provided they are up to 5 meters long. If it is necessary to use beams over 5 meters long, it is better to use glued beams that can withstand increased loads.

Beam 10×15 cm, array

It is important to know the exact length of the beam. This value is taken equal to the length of the span that will cover the lag plus the depth of the “nest” or notch made to fasten the element. The length of the notches is usually from 70 to 150 mm.

The cross section of the beams is chosen rectangular or square, less often - an I-profile (a combination of solid wood and OSB / plywood). Best Ratio section of a rectangular beam - 1.4 to 1. Beams are made with a width of 40 to 200 mm and a height of 100 to 300 mm. A rounded log (11-30 cm) is rarely used for arranging the floor in a bath, despite its high resistance to bending deformation.

The step between the beams is usually chosen within 30-120 mm, guided by the width plate insulation, the location of the support legs frame bath or the dimensions of the subfloor filing sheets.

On a note! To calculate the floor load, you can use online services. Each of them requires entering accurate information about the type of beams and lag, section, dimensions.

Calculator calculation (Excel format).

According to the code building codes under the number 2.01.07-85, any loads are divided into:

permanent (they are also long-term) - from interior partitions and external walls, roofs, ground pressure, etc.;
variables, i.e. arising from the furniture installed in the bath, equipment (including stove) and visitors, as well as snow, wind loads and some others.

Rigidity is characterized by the ratio of the deflection to the length of the beam (beam). This indicator for interfloor beams 1/350.

The values of the breaking maximum load on the beams are presented in the table.

Video - Floor Calculations

Accurate calculations of the maximum load on a wooden floor are quite complex, they are performed by specialists when designing large objects. For the bath floor on which the stove will be installed, approximate maximum load values can be used.

Thus, if heater together with the base plate and others structural elements will weigh no more than 400 kg, then it can be installed on floors with support logs of the following sizes:

if the step between the lags is 60 cm, then the dimensions with a span of 2 meters are 75 × 100 mm, 3 m - 75 × 200 mm, 4 m - 100 × 200 mm, 5 m - 150 × 200 mm; 6 m - 150 × 225 mm;
if the step between the lags is 1 m, then the dimensions with a span length of 2 m - 75 × 150 mm, 3 m - 100 × 175 mm, 4 m - 175 × 200 mm, 5 m - 150 × 225 mm, 6 m - 175 × 250 mm.

If your oven weighs more, then it is worth reducing the step between the lags or increasing their cross section. Furnaces weighing more than 700 kg require a separate base that is not connected to the main foundation. It is unacceptable to install such structures on a wooden floor. However, only brick sauna stoves with brick chimneys have such weight.

On a note! Bath - a room of increased fire danger. Use flame retardant impregnation for everyone wooden elements baths before installing the stove on the floor.

Video - Ermak oven. Installation

Foundation for a sauna stove

Those who build a bath with their own hands often think about the advisability of arranging a foundation for an iron stove. It would seem that the unit weighs relatively little, you can lay a sheet of metal and use it. However, according to the assurances of the fire inspectorate and according to the norms of SNiP, flammable surfaces must be reliably isolated from hot surfaces.

A properly built base will also ensure a long service life for the oven. at the slightest distortion, metal heaters fail faster.

Option one

We equip the simplest non-combustible base directly on the wooden floor.

Step 1. We make measurements of the dimensions of the furnace. We transfer the dimensions of the heater to the floor boards (in the place where the stove will be installed). We take a meter ruler and expand the drawn rectangle so that in the future, in front of the firebox, the wooden floorboards are covered with steel by 50 cm, and on the other three sides the refractory plate “peeps out” at least 5-10 cm.

If at the furnace the furnace door is moved to the next room, then in front of the loading chamber we make markings for steel flooring (50 cm), and in the steam room we make markings for the furnace foundation (plus 10 cm to the dimensions of the furnace). At the same time, we make markings on the wall for cutting the opening. If the stove is purchased factory-made, then the dimensions are indicated in the instructions, in the case of installing home-made stove equipment, the distance between the metal walls of the heater and the inner surface of the completed window is 25-50 cm.

If the firewood will be loaded from the street, you should only take care of the markings inside the room. It is assumed that the area in front of the firebox door will be filled with concrete or lined with non-combustible paving slabs.

Step 2 If necessary, we break out or cut out part of the interior partition ( outer wall Houses).

Step 3. We take a refractory plate and cut out a piece that is identical in size to the mark drawn on the floor. The prices for some types of plates can be found in the table.

We fasten the plate to the floor with self-tapping screws.

Step 4 We soak refractory bricks in water (you can use full-bodied red ones, but fireclay is preferable). We mix the mortar for masonry.

We lay out the bricks in a continuous layer. Adjust the horizontal level. If necessary, tap the bricks with a mallet or add a layer masonry mortar.

Brick laying. Scheme

Lay out the second row in the same way as the first.

Step 5 We take a stainless steel sheet, apply heat-resistant glue diluted according to the manufacturer's instructions on it. We lay the sheet on the bricks, tap with a mallet, check the level.

It is possible to install the furnace on such basis in 24-48 hours.

Prices for fireclay bricks

fireclay brick

Option two

If the design of the furnace is too massive, and the ceilings are not strong enough, it is worth doing separate foundation, not connected with the main support of the house. Such work is carried out at the construction stage of the bath or after the completion of construction. Moreover, the second option involves the manufacture of a rectangular or square hole in the floor, associated with dismantling.

Step 1. For the foundation of the sauna stove, you will need a pit with dimensions slightly larger than the size of the stove. Such a pit should be dug until the freezing point of the soil.

Step 2 We compact the soil with a manual rammer. We fall asleep 20 cm of fine gravel, ram it. On top of the gravel, we backfill with sand (10-15 cm), followed by tamping.

Step 3. We equip waterproofing - we close the walls of the pit with roofing material or a two-layer thick plastic film.

Step 4 We make a frame from reinforcement rods. The distance from the walls and bottom of the pit to the frame is 5 cm. We use supports for the lower row of reinforcement or stick pins into the pillow, on which we fix the rods with wire or welding.

Step 5 Mixing concrete. We pour it into the pit. From the top point of the poured concrete to the line of the finished wooden floor, 20 cm should remain. We compact the concrete with a deep vibrator and cover it with two layers of roofing material. To fasten the layers of roofing material, we use bituminous mastic.

It is recommended to continue work after 21-28 days. To shorten this period, instead of concrete pouring make brickwork to the finishing floor line. In the case considered above, only two rows of bricks are laid out to the finishing floor line.

A sheet of steel is laid on the floor in front of the firebox or laid out ceramic tile. This coating will protect the wooden floor from fire in the event of coal falling out.

Prices for roofing material

ruberoid

Video - Foundation for the furnace

Furnace, tank and chimney installation

The sauna stove is installed on an equipped refractory base without fastening to it.

If the firebox is remote (goes into the next room), then a brick is laid out in the wall opening, and there must be a gap between the masonry and the metal walls, which is necessary for laying a heat-resistant sheet insulation. gaps between masonry and wooden wall foam up mounting foam, and refractory mastic (sealant) is used to seal the joints of a metal furnace with a brick portal.

If the firebox is located in the steam room, then the wall behind the stove is closed with solid brickwork (in half a brick) or covered with a stainless steel sheet 3-5 mm thick. In this case, the oven must be at least 10 cm from the wall.

Note! Preliminary kindling of the furnace before installation is a mandatory procedure prescribed by manufacturers of solid fuel units. This is necessary for the complete hardening of the body paint and to eliminate the appearance of smell in the steam room from chemical fumes that may appear during heating.

Video - Oven water tanks

Chimney sandwich. Mounting

Sandwich chimney pipes are easy to install and are characterized by increased heat saving due to the mineral wool insulation between the outer and inner walls. This chimney provides good traction, and soot and condensate do not accumulate on the inner surface. For the production of sandwich chimneys, only acid-resistant stainless steel with a long service life is used. Therefore, for a sauna stove, such a chimney is considered the best option.

Mineral wool prices

mineral wool

During installation, it is important to observe fire safety measures in order to avoid spontaneous combustion of the wooden floors of the bath (wood ignites at a temperature of 170-270 degrees).

Do not make mistakes during installation and try to save insulating materials!

Fire protection is provided by galvanized sheets and asbestos fiber laid between the walls of the chimney and the ceiling. It is important to choose the length of the chimney so that a pipe joint does not form at the location of the ceiling. If the chimney pipe has a length of more than 6 m, then additional fixation is carried out with brackets and clamps.

Step 1. On the ceiling above the installed sauna stove we make markings for the installation of a branch pipe-cutting.

Step 2 According to the markup, we cut the ceiling.

We apply flame retardant impregnation to wooden elements.

Step 3 Insert the cutting pipe into the cut hole ( metal box with pipe hole).

We fix it with self-tapping screws in the corners. Between the ceiling and the steel walls of the pipe we insert sheet asbestos or basalt insulation.

According to the norms, the thickness of the insulation should be 7-7.5 cm (that is, this is the distance between the walls of the box and the ceiling ceiling). The minimum distance from the pipe walls to the beams is 130 mm. And from the chimney to the walls of the bath there should be a distance of at least 380 mm.

Step 4 Directly to the furnace pipe we connect (by welding or to a refractory sealant) a section of an uninsulated single-circuit pipe. It is impossible to connect a sandwich chimney directly to the stove pipe - the insulation will burn. On the same section of the chimney, it is necessary to mount a gate (smoke damper).

Step 5 We connect a single-circuit pipe with a start-sandwich (adapter). All connections are sealed.

Step 6. We connect the first section of the sandwich chimney to the adapter. We connect sections of the sandwich chimney in the bathhouse not “by condensate”, but “by smoke”, that is, the walls top element must overlap the walls of the lower section of the pipe (see figure).

We additionally strengthen the straight sections of the chimney at the joints with wide metal clamps.

When the chimney is brought out through the cutting pipe, we put on a rectangular steel sheet from the side of the attic. We fix the sheet with self-tapping screws to the floor boards.

Chimney installation is a responsible matter

Step 7 We bring the chimney to the roof. Cut a hole in the roof. To pass the pipe through the roof, a special element is used - roof cutting. This is a pipe with an aluminum sheet soldered to it. Lubricate the aluminum sheet with refractory sealant, and then fasten it to roofing material(for example, metal tiles) with self-tapping screws.

Roof cutting will not allow the chimney to come into contact with the materials of the roofing pie. From the inside (under the roof) we perform sealing with basalt insulation and close it steel sheet. Sheet in advance, i.e. until the pipe is brought out through the roof, we put it on the chimney.

Step 8 The last stage is the calculation of the elevation of the chimney above the roof of the bath. You can specify this indicator in the table.

It remains only to fix the cone-deflector. Installation completed.

Video - Installation of a chimney for a sauna stove

In order for a metal sauna stove installed on a wooden floor to work efficiently, and for steaming procedures to have a healing effect, do not forget to lay high-quality stones, for example, by attaching a special mesh to the stove body for them. Facing the furnace with bricks is optional, but without fail leaving a gap between the body and the brickwork.

Brickwork is classic building technology with centuries of history. Even in ancient times, burnt brick was used for construction. various buildings. In the 3rd and 2nd millennium BC, buildings were erected from it in Egypt, Mesopotamia, ancient Rome and other states. In Russia, such construction was carried out already in the 15th century, good example- the walls of the Moscow Kremlin.

In bridge construction, complex arched and vaulted structures were constructed.

Well built brick building durable and beautiful, therefore, despite the variety of modern building materials, brick products and today occupy one of the leading positions. Consider how to lay a brick wall.

Varieties of brick

For masonry work, the following types of material are used:

ceramic, obtained by firing clay. It is widely used in foundation structures, walls, partitions, chimneys, stoves and fireplaces. It is produced full-bodied, with no voids, and hollow - voids occupy ≥ 13%. Voids are made in various sizes and shapes: closed, open, round, rectangular, slit-like, etc. This significantly reduces the weight of the product and its thermal conductivity. To improve the thermal insulation performance of hollow bricks, clay raw materials are porousized. Porous products have increased strength, sound insulation and good heat retention;
silicate, made from quartz sand and notify. It has reduced moisture and heat resistance, which excludes its use in structures operating in a humid environment and exposure to high temperatures.

According to the purpose, the products of the following types are distinguished:

ordinary, used for the construction of external and internal walls, as well as partitions (ceramic, additionally, for the construction of foundations);
facial, characterized by even and smooth edges and a better surface. Available with various geometric shape: rectangular, angular, radial, rounded and with a wide variety of color shades;
textured, on the front surface, which are applied drawings;
shaped or curly - for laying arches of various shapes and pillars;
clinker. Differ two different types: facade - for facade cladding, pavement - used for paving pavements.

Main advantages and disadvantages

Ideal building materials do not exist, brick products also have their own advantages and disadvantages.

environmental friendliness due to the use of only natural materials in the production;
high compressive strength, allowing the construction of high-rise buildings;
incombustibility;
frost resistance, which makes it possible to use in the northern zones;
good noise isolation;
not subject to rotting, corrosion, mold, fungi and rodents;
universality for the construction of buildings of almost any shape;
durability over a hundred years;
beautiful appearance brick buildings.

small size, leading to large labor costs during execution and a decrease in the speed of operations;
significant weight for their small size;
high price of products;
the need for self-preparation of masonry mortar for masonry with your own hands.

Types of brickwork

Solid. Creating a one-piece monolithic construct. Laying is carried out along the outer edges of the walls. The bricks in a row are called vests, and the filling is a backfill.
Lightweight or well. Often used for the construction of low-rise buildings. They consist of 2 parallel walls half a brick wide, interconnected by transverse solid walls through 3 ... 5 rows. The resulting wells are filled with heat insulators. To prevent self-compacting and settling of heaters at certain distances, it is necessary to install horizontal diaphragms from a bonded row.
Reinforced. They are erected under the influence of significant loads. Reinforcement is carried out in horizontal and vertical seams by installing galvanized metal meshes through several calculated rows.
With lining. The outer part is lined facing brick with bandaging with tychkovy rows.
Decorative. Used for cladding various designs with a combination of facing and silicate products.

One of the oldest types of masonry is chain, which involves alternating rows, which can be spoon or bond, but the vertical seams in the spoon must necessarily match.

In cross laying, the horizontal seams of the spoons are performed in a dressing.

The species that received the name are interesting: Dutch, English, Moscow and Lipetsk.

Seam dressing methods

Ligation is performed to combine the wall with a solution into a single durable construct. It can be run:

single-row, with alternate laying of spoon and bonder rows. The lower and uppermost are necessarily bonded, the vertical seams of the underlying ones are necessarily overlapped by the upper one;
multi-row - every 6 spoon rows are covered with a bonder, while the vertical seams of the two lower ones are overlapped in the middle with the upper bricks, and the bonder overlaps the underlying seam of 1/4 brick.

The procedure for self-execution of brickwork

It is important to follow 3 basic principles:

compliance with the correct linear position of the elements;
the same height of each row;
the same thickness of the seams, the vertical ones should be parallel to each other.

A person who does not have experience often has questions about how to properly perform work and compliance with what is especially important, let's try to highlight these points.

To study the existing numerous nuances, it is recommended that you familiarize yourself in detail with the technical literature on the construction of brickwork before performing work.