How to install a motion sensor on the light. Self-installation of the motion detector

Automatic devices, electronic devices and "smart" devices are increasingly included in everyday life modern man. They control and manage many processes and tasks in automatic mode.

Many of these devices simplify the economic activity of a person, others free him from performing routine and annoying monotonous operations, others increase the comfort of living, and some can even increase the safety of housing.

One such useful and often indispensable device is a motion sensor (sometimes also called a presence sensor). The main task of such electronics is the detection in the zone of its control of the presence of a person (an animal, as a special case) or his movement. When detected, the device sends a control signal to another device - it can be an audible alarm system, launching a computer program (when connected to a computer), turning the power on or off (when using a relay). That is, any other electronic device can serve as a "receiver" of the signal.

Motion sensors are very wide use in security systems of enterprises and organizations, and in individually the most commonly used is a motion sensor connection scheme for lighting or, a little less often, for opening and closing automatic locks. However, other applications at the household level are also very effective - for example, to ensure the safety of your home or garage.

The use of motion sensors in domestic buildings is most effective for organizing automatic lighting, which will turn on in the presence of people and turn off when they leave the premises. Stairs, pantries, utility rooms equipped with such systems become more convenient, since most often people stay there for a short time, and forgotten light can burn for days without any need for it.

The device itself has a simple principle of operation: the sensor captures an object located in its sensitivity field, which should not usually be there, and, reacting to this, closes the electrical circuit. When the object disappears from the "field of view" of the sensor, the electrical circuit opens again.

Varieties of presence and motion sensors

Despite the simplicity of the principle of operation, motion sensors differ in a variety of parameters. To better understand the picture of the range of products on the market, you need to know about them at least in in general terms. This will allow you to optimally select an electronic device for your purposes.

Differences in the location of the device:

  • internal location - as the name implies, it is used to control the presence of a person in the room;
  • peripheral location - used for objects remote from the house (as an example, turning on the lights on the walking path as a person moves along it or highlighting the water in the pool when swimming at night);
  • perimeter location - most often located on fence posts and are triggered when people or cars approach (convenient for lighting a garage area).

Differences according to the principle of operation:

  • active type - the design has a transmitter and a signal receiver, when a person appears in the signal zone, the signal enters the receiver, and it works;
  • passive type - a receiver and a transmitter in one housing, when the transmitter signal hits an object that has appeared, it is reflected and returned to the receiver, which is triggered by this.

Differences by signal type:

  • ultrasound - the sound of high, inaudible frequencies is used;
  • microwaves - radio waves of superhigh frequencies are used;
  • infrared radiation - the use of thermal waves (light of the infrared spectrum), it is these sensors that are the most simple and therefore common.

Differences in trigger source:

  • thermal type - triggering occurs when the temperature changes on the sensor sensor (the reflected infrared beam of the transmitter or the thermal radiation of a living object hits);
  • sound type - triggering occurs when the sensor detects air vibrations at sound frequencies;
  • frequency-oscillatory type - the sensor of the sensor responds to frequency fluctuations and changes magnetic field, caused by movement in the coverage area of ​​the device.

Differences in the design of elements:

  • monoblock - the electronic device is made in the form of one monolithic case;
  • double-case - with this design, the receiver and transmitter are separated into different cases and are installed at a distance from each other;
  • multiblock - the device includes a whole complex of receivers and transmitters (sometimes even of different types), which works in a single bundle.

Differences by mount type:

  • overhead type - mounted on the vertical surface of the walls;
  • ceiling type - mounted on horizontal surfaces ceiling below;
  • mortise type - mounting inside the surfaces of walls or ceilings.

Motion sensor connection diagrams for lighting

For use in everyday life, the industry produces presence sensors in the form of ready-made blocks, so that it is easy to do all the connection work with your own hands for anyone who is not afraid to mount a socket or switch on their own.

Such blocks are necessarily completed with documentation - a connection diagram or several of its variants, which will not allow even an inexperienced master to make a mistake when connecting the sensor to the electrical network.

The design of household motion detectors provides for a simple adjustment of the three main settings using separate step or smooth controls (knobs, levers or sliders).

The parameters required after connecting the detector are:

  • distance to the trigger point;
  • signal delay duration (how long the signal will last from the moment the sensor is triggered);
  • capture area angle - adjusts the width of the cone-shaped area in which the presence or presence of an object will be detected.

To connect to the network with your own hands, household sensors have three terminal leads - zero, input and output to the lamp (or other connected device).

Important! In theory, there is not much difference when connecting power to a zero or phase output, but in practice, if connected incorrectly, the sensor will regularly produce false positives, although its operation will not change otherwise.

Due to the presence of a signal duration regulator in the design of household detectors, the motion sensor circuit for lighting can be used completely independently, without additional electrical switches. However, in practice it is more common to use them together. There are three main ways to connect presence detectors to electrical network:


Some nuances

When mounting motion sensors into a home lighting system with your own hands, in addition to following the connection diagram that is attached to the documentation from the device manufacturer, you should take into account some not-so-obvious features and use the developed recommendations in practice:


Important! When using several detectors operating in parallel, they must be connected to the same phase, otherwise, if more than one detector is triggered, a short circuit will occur.

Often the clutter of the room with furniture or its custom shape, the presence of niches or vestibules does not allow one sensor to cover the entire area, which means that the efficiency will be low.

In such cases, several detectors are used, which must be connected in parallel with each other by hand - this ensures that the lighting is turned on when any of the installed motion detectors is triggered. It is necessary to arrange several devices so that their sensitivity zone covers the entire area of ​​​​the room.

Motion detection settings

When the question of how to connect a motion sensor with your own hands is resolved, one more mandatory procedure should be performed. Like any technical device, the motion sensor for lighting requires, after its installation, to be configured for maximum efficiency.

To adjust, manufacturers usually install three knobs (or levers) on the body of the device with the markings “TIME”, “LUX” and “SENS”.

Each of the knobs is designed to control one of the motion detector parameters:


From all that has been described, it is easy to conclude that connecting a motion sensor to the lighting system of the premises of a private house or apartment is very effective and convenient way improve comfort. In addition, the introduction of such a device into your home can quite significantly save the budget by reducing the consumption of electricity, which will not be spent on lighting rooms where there is no one.

In order to simplify the process of lighting control and automate its switching on and off in certain places (entrance, corridors, entrance to the house on the street, etc.), devices such as motion sensors are used.

In addition to working in lighting networks, they can be used in security systems. For example, to give an audible signal (siren roar, ringer) when motion is detected in a protected area.

They can also be set to open automatically. entrance doors, which is widely used in shopping malls and shops.


Let's look at how to properly connect this device, analyze popular schemes and list the errors that directly affect the error of the device.

Two-wire motion sensor connection

First of all, decide which sensor model you have by connection type. They are two and three wire.

First, let's study the simplest two-wire circuit.


Two-wire motion sensors are most often placed in conventional sockets. The overall picture of its connection consists of 4 elements:

  • circuit breaker for 220V power supply
  • junction box
  • the sensor itself
  • lamps

Connecting the device is similar to installing a single-button light switch. That is, you need to bring the supply phase to the sensor, and through it let it go to the lamp.


At the same time, it is better to use the "sensor - lamp" bundle on a separate circuit, and not put it on general lighting.


Consider the installation process from the very beginning. First of all, run a three-core cable VVGng-Ls 3 * 1.5mm2 from the machine in the shield to the junction box. Designate and mark its cores: phase, zero, ground.



Where is the best place to place it?

The classic version for models installed in the socket box is at a height of 1.2-2.0 m from the floor level.


Don't confuse them with wall devices located in the passage corridors or entrances of high-rise buildings, or at the entrance to the building. These are usually lifted up to the very ceiling, not far from the doors.


Also note that no open doors block the sensor's field of view.


Zeros first. From the power cable - to the lamp cable.

But the phase from the machine, we connect with one of the residential, going down to the sensor (L). The second core from the sensor cable, let it go to the lamp (L sensor).


It remains to connect the sensor itself in the socket. The incoming phase with the symbol L is connected to the corresponding terminal.


We connect the second core to the terminal where the lighting device or the "load" sign is drawn, as in the figure below.


It remains to hide the entire mechanism in the socket and install a decorative frame.



  • 2-set the sensitivity threshold

So that the sensor does not turn on during the day or at another time of the day that you do not need, depending on.

  • 3-set the time after which the lighting will turn off as soon as the movement disappears in the coverage area of ​​the device

That's all. Apply voltage and check the operation of the entire circuit.

The advantages of such a two-wire circuit and motion sensor data:

  • ease of installation and connection
  • the possibility of forced switching on of lighting without additional light switches
  • versatility

You can easily replace any one-button switch with a similar one and automate your lighting system without any capital investment.

However, there are also disadvantages. These devices often do not work well with energy-saving and LED light bulbs.


They begin to flicker, sometimes very strongly.

Three-wire motion sensor connection diagram

Let's move on to three-wire sensors with three terminals. The most popular brands in our market are infrared motion sensors IEK models from DD-009 to DD-019.


Their popularity is primarily due to their low price. But even more expensive copies from other manufacturers, in principle, are made according to exactly the same pattern. And the connection and configuration process will be the same.

When buying such devices, pay attention to the degree of their moisture protection. In the bulk it is IP44.

Outside buildings, they can only be placed under a canopy or visor. They are not protected from direct rain. Here you will already need fully waterproof IP65 models.


Also look at the operating temperature if you intend to use it outdoors. Most of them are designed to work only up to minus 20C. Then they begin to mercilessly fail.

On a three-wire sensor, you will have to start full-fledged 220V, that is, phase and zero. The whole system also consists of 4 elements:

  • circuit breaker
  • junction box
  • sensor
  • lamp

Optionally, many add another separate light switch. Let's take a look at this diagram below.

When connecting a three-wire sensor, 3 cables will enter the junction box:

  • three-core from the machine (phase-zero-earth)
  • three-core for lighting (if you have lamps with a metal case)
  • three-wire per sensor

Zeros are going to one point. "Earth" from the machine is connected to the "ground" on the lamp. Everything is as per the previously discussed scheme.

That's just not one phase is already fed to the motion sensor, but full-fledged phase-zero. This device has three terminals under the case.


  • two introductory - here you start the power supply 220V

They can be signed as L (phase) and N (zero).


  • and one exit

Denoted for example by the letter "A".

To get to the terminals, unscrew the two screws on the case and remove the bottom protective cover.



If you have already removed three multi-colored wires from the case, look for their marking in the instructions. Usually this:

  • red A - exit
  • blue N - zero
  • brown L - input phase

But it is better to open the lid and check everything visually.

It is the phase that controls all the lighting that comes out. In the junction box, you connect it to the phase conductor of the cable going to the lamps or to another load.

The whole circuit will look simplified as follows.



If you do not want to use a junction box as a connection point for all wires, then you will have to run all the wires into the sensor itself and connect them to its terminal block. Two zero cores are twisted together and tightened to the N terminal.

Start the phase from the power supply to the L terminal. Well, connect the core that goes to the lamp to the remaining output. Roughly speaking, phase-zero was applied from one cable, phase-zero was taken out from the other. Nothing complicated.


It turns out the same 3-wire circuit, only without the junction box.


Sensitivity setting and adjustment

After connecting on the case, look for controls and settings. One of the "krutilok" is responsible for the time of day. The sun and the moon (Lux) are drawn there.


In order to use the device during daylight hours, set the switch to the mode where the sun icon is. If you need it to work at night or in a dark room where there is no natural light - unscrew it to the moon.


The second switch sets the shutdown time (Time). Move the rheostat from minimum to maximum and increase the auto-off time from a few seconds to several minutes.

How to set the settings so that the device does not accidentally react to pets? Remember the main thing, in this case, the sensitivity should be adjusted not by switches, but by the angle of rotation of the entire sphere.


That is, where the transparent window looks, it will react to it. If you don't want the light to come on when a cat or dog runs by, don't point the sphere down towards the floor. Set the window perpendicular to the plane of the wall or at the level of your head.

Well, if you suddenly want the sensor not to work at all, then turn its "head" so that the window looks at the very top, as if into the sky.

The real capture zone of the sensor beams is approximately 9-10 meters. Although the documentation says more.


Also pay attention to such a property as sensitivity depending on the direction of human movement. It will be maximum when you pass by, and minimum when you go towards the rays.

Therefore, in the corridor or entrance of high-rise buildings, it is better to put the sensors on immediately above the doors, and somewhere closer to the corner. In this case, in any case, you will just cross the rays, and not move towards them.

The main disadvantage of such a 3-wire circuit is the lack of forced lighting. The motion sensor may fail or start to work incorrectly. Because of this, you will be left completely without lighting.

To avoid such problems, a third scheme is used with an additional light switch.

Scheme of switching on the motion sensor with a switch

This scheme is the most versatile. It uses the usual one-key.


Many will ask: "He has only two contacts and two wires, and the sensor has three. What to do with the extra?" Everything is very simple, just connect it in parallel.

That is, the phase from the power supply must immediately be connected not only to the sensor, but also to the single-button light switch. The second wire from the single-keyboard is connected to the lighting circuit, that is, to the output conductor from the sensor.

It looks like this.

Now you can turn the lights on and off at any time, regardless of whether it is day or night, whether there is movement in the device’s coverage area or not, whether it is working or broken.

By the way, if you install the switch not in parallel, but in series in the circuit, that is, after it, so that the phase breaks up to the sensor, you will encounter a problem that is not entirely obvious.


It would seem that this option is the best. The entire circuit can be completely disconnected from the voltage, and if necessary, turn it on and immediately turn on the light. But the fact is that with a complete blackout and the subsequent supply of voltage, the light bulb does not light up immediately.

No matter how much you jump in front of the sensor and wave your arms. He needs a certain amount of time to scan the entire area for objects. For many models, this takes 10-20 seconds.

Meanwhile, you will stand in the dark and patiently wait for the light. Agree that this is not very convenient.

How to connect a three-wire sensor to two wires

Is it possible to connect a 3-wire sensor not in parallel, but instead of a one-key switch? That is, throw it out of the circuit and put it in a phase break as in the very first case, connecting only two wires and not summing zero?

With some LED bulbs, this trick can pass. But you will need additional components.


  • diode VDI 1N4007
  • capacitor 2.2uF at 400V

The diode is installed between two terminals:


  • A-output from the sensor
  • N - zero connection point

The capacitor is soldered parallel to the bulb. Schematically, it turns out that only the phase will come to the sensor. Moreover, it enters the L contact, and leaves the N contact.

The normal output "A" remains empty. Only the leg of the diode "sits" on it and no more conductors need to be connected here.


This scheme is useful for those who have only a 2-core cable laid, and you do not want to change or redo anything. However, it does not work with all lamps. Models must be selected individually.


Some species may catch fire, but the pulsation coefficient on them will be of such magnitude that it will hit the eyes and vision hard.


Any other load besides led lighting(door opening, alarm, incandescent lamps), it is impossible to turn on according to this scheme. She simply won't work.

In addition, the total lighting power for such a connection is not more than 80W.

Circuit with two sensors

In case you have very long corridor, and even with turns, you have to put several sensors along the wall.

In order not to pull separate power to each of them directly from the switch, use a parallel connection scheme.


The number of devices here is not limited. How it works? For example, you went to the beginning of the corridor, the first sensor worked, the lighting turned on. We left his zone, reached the second device - the lighting continues to burn.

We went around the corner where the third sensor is located, its elements are closed, the bulbs are still on. And only when you leave the coverage area of ​​​​all elements, the light will go out after a given period.

Circuit with starter or contactor

All such motion sensors are designed to connect a load of about 1 kW. What if we are talking about powerful lighting lines made on HPS lamps?


Or if you need such devices to open doors or run fans? In this case, use a circuit with a magnetic starter.

All powerful load will be connected through the contacts of the starter, and the sensor will control its switching coil.


The phase conductor leaving the device will power the coil. Zero can come either directly or from the same sensor.

The motion sensor is not working correctly - connection errors

1 False positives.

False positives often occur when exposed to extraneous factors. For example, if the sensors are improperly placed near heating elements or outdoors, close to trees.

With the wind and the movement of branches, the device will work and start lighting every time. But sometimes this happens due to a malfunction of internal components.

To find out what is to blame for false positives, just cover the sensitive window with opaque electrical tape.


If this does not change anything and the device will still start spontaneously, then it is definitely out of order and it is time to change it.

2 Connection of phase and zero.

From the point of view of the logic of the device, it does not matter where you connect the phase, and where it is zero. But from the point of view of safety, it is the phase conductor that should be broken.

The same rule applies when connecting any lamp holder.


So here everything is done in the same way. Start the phase exactly on the terminal where the instruction is prescribed.

A fire alarm is an indispensable part of the infrastructure these days, allowing you not to worry about the integrity of the premises, even if no one is monitoring its condition at a particular moment. Such a system is especially good in buildings where the likelihood of a fire starting and spreading rapidly is significantly increased. Initially, the installation of such equipment made sense only in various warehouses, but today the reduction in the cost of such products leads to the fact that it is gradually moving into the category of household ones - after all, flammable materials are increasingly used in the decoration of apartments.

How the system works

Fire detectors are a whole group different devices, which, when combined into a fire system, react to potentially dangerous phenomena. Depending on the exact configuration, the system detects a particular problem and sends information about it to the console fire brigade, which gets the opportunity to arrive at the scene even before she is called, and save property and people. Address type sensors are able not only to signal the presence of a problem in the surveillance area, but also accurately display on the remote control the point at which this problem is detected. For the people themselves, the system may provide for automatic sound notification - since somewhere on fire, and now firefighters will arrive, it makes sense to leave the building.

The fire alarm system for each room is assembled individually, taking into account its design features and potential threats. In this case, different types of sensors are used, which have different principle work.

  • Heat detectors respond to rising temperatures. Threshold ones are considered the most accessible and common, but they are not always effective - the sensor responds to temperatures above 70 degrees, which cannot normally be, but if the source of ignition is far away, the operation will be belated. Integral detectors in this sense are more reliable, but also more expensive. Thermal sensors are linear - then they are presented in the form of a cable, not a point. And control the long line.

  • Smoke detectors have long been considered mandatory in public spaces. They emit infrared rays, which scatter even due to a small amount of smoke, which is captured by the device. Such a system is reliable in terms of response, but it involves too many opportunities for false alarms - the device can take steam or even dust flying in the air for smoke. Naturally, it is pointless to install such a system in a smoking room, and it is there that the probability of a real fire is quite high. Accordingly, in any premises where there are such sensors, smoking is strictly prohibited.

  • The flame detector reacts to the actual occurrence of fire, and not to concomitant factors. The best application for such a sensor is a production room, where there is a lot of dust and constantly high temperatures, and flammable materials are also presented. The above-described detectors would either be distinguished by regular false alarms, or they would miss a sharp moment of ignition, and during the time they “think”, the flame could engulf the entire workshop.

  • The gas leak sensor is often capable of responding to both smoke and temperature., but him main feature- "smell" the smell of gas, even when a person has not yet discovered it. A leak usually leads to devastating consequences in the form of an explosion, therefore, if it is detected, immediate action is needed, and the alarm will cause emergency service even if no one is there.

  • Combined sensors are able to respond to several criteria at once, therefore they can potentially be considered the most effective.

How to choose a place?

The efficiency of the system depends on how correctly the sensors are located, so it’s worth navigating in more on the configuration of the room, rather than on the norms, which are quite liberal in this regard. So, the sensors should not be further than 9 meters from each other, and no more than 4.5 meters from the wall. There must be at least two sensors in the room, because in this way they insure each other and more fully cover the territory. If the detectors are not placed on the ceiling, but on the wall, there must be at least 2 meters between them, otherwise a so-called smoke pocket is formed, due to which the frequency of operations increases dramatically. For the same reason, if the ceiling has protruding beams in the form of partitions, the catchers are placed not in the gaps between them, but on the beams themselves.

Any sensor has a certain level of sensitivity and does not always survey the entire hemisphere- it must be installed either so that it covers the entire protected room, or with a special focus on potentially the most dangerous places, for example, constantly working computer equipment. IN small rooms a further location of the sensor from the source is usually allowed, since the same smoke or elevated temperature simply has nowhere to go from the four walls.

For example, a flame detector at a distance of more than 9 meters from the fire is unlikely to fix the problem at all. In a room up to 15 sq. m, it will still react at a distance of 6-9 meters, but with a doubling of the room, the distance from the fire to the sensor should already be no more than 3-3.5 meters.

It is easier with smoke - the same minimum distance to the detector is suitable for rooms of 70-85 sq. m, and for areas less than 55 sq. m capture is possible even at a distance of 10 meters. In rooms equipped with a false ceiling, the installation of detectors has its own characteristics.

Placing already behind a false ceiling is possible only under several conditions: the presence of a perforation stretch ceiling with a total area of ​​about 40% of the surface for a good “view” of overhead sensors, the diameter for each hole is at least 1 cm, or the compilation of a suspended structure from parts whose dimensions do not exceed the coverage area of ​​​​one sensor. Accordingly, the detectors are usually attached to the main ceiling or other reliable structures, and cut into the ceiling. If compliance with these conditions does not seem possible, over-ceiling sensors are placed on the walls, since directly on suspended structures they cannot be fixed due to the fragility of the latter.

Step by step installation instructions

Ideally, installation should be entrusted to professionals - only they know all the rules and regulations, are able to correctly calculate distances and choose the most effective scheme placement of sensors. Experience allows craftsmen to avoid popular mistakes of inexperienced people when, when calculating the number of ceiling detectors, the position of the lamp is not taken into account, which interferes with the view or causes false alarms due to heat generation. However, one should still have a superficial understanding of the topic - at least in order to check the quality of the work performed.

When the plan is drawn up taking into account all the above standards, it is required to place signs on the ceiling or walls in the places where the sensors will be mounted. After that, the scheme should be comprehensively evaluated again, since new details can often be observed on the ceiling that are not taken into account in the drawings. When making changes on the go, do not forget that all distances must be in accordance with at least the minimum allowable values, otherwise the system will either not work in case of fire or will sin with false calls.

In places allocated for sensors, they are mounted. Connection to the mains is carried out in series with two-wire wires. All parts must be connected to a single network, so a resistor must be installed on the last connected sensor.

When installation is carried out behind suspended or tension structures, for fire alarms, you can design a separate frame - for example, you can mount them on a cable if it is reliable and well fixed. In this case, the insert should be made so that the edges of the slot do not interfere with the full view of the room by the sensor, therefore, ideally, the latter should be brought to the very level false ceiling. If the ceiling is stretched and made of a material that is afraid of not even the most high temperatures, the slot should be taken into a special thermal ring, because the sensor itself, constantly connected to the mains, is also capable of heating up. The last step is to test the operation of the system. For most types of sensors, a simple and good test is a lit match or lighter, which is carried along the detectors - here you have flame, and smoke, and temperature, so working system just have to respond.

Connection Features

Both in production and residential buildings the main purpose of fire detectors is not only to detect a potential hazard, but also to transmit a message about it to firefighters. This allows you to urgently respond to fires and smoke, before they become catastrophic, and there may not be anyone in the room who would raise the alarm. Accordingly, the detector must be connected not only to the mains, but also to a receiving station located directly at the fire station post.

Not all fire alarm systems send a message about the situation automatically - some can only sound a siren warning everyone present about the problem. So, in places where there are always people, inexpensive manual call points are more often used - it's like a fire alarm button, someone has to press it. Automatic detectors respond to sensor readings, so the signal is sent without human intervention. In any case, a communication channel and an end user are needed to transmit a signal, therefore, without the direct participation of the fire service, the installation of a fire alarm system does not make sense. The stations to which the detectors are connected are different - they are designed for different types the sensors themselves and usually have a limitation on their the maximum number. For this reason, while planning the system, it is necessary to select a suitable station and negotiate with the fire department about its installation and maintenance.

The connection of the detectors to each other is possible both by a ring, or loop, system, that is, in series, and by a radial method, where a separate cable is allocated for each point.

Possible problems after installation

Fire alarms must always be in perfect working order, as the safety of not only property, but also human lives. At the same time, fire detectors, like any other equipment, can periodically break down, including due to insufficient care. Experts note that the lack of timely prevention is one of the most common causes of system failure. For example, dust and extraneous small debris can get into the smoke sensor chamber, most likely, this will happen sooner or later, and then the detector will no longer be able to respond to smoke in a timely manner.

Accordingly, the elementary untidiness of the service premises can also become an indirect cause of the incorrect operation of the sensors. We have already mentioned that different types sensors are capable of false alarms due to dust, elevated temperatures, and even high humidity. It is clear that in the conditions of a production workshop, it may simply not be possible to greatly improve the conditions, but then you need to take a more responsible approach to choosing the type of sensor and choose one that will not react to the natural conditions of the protected area like a fire.

An eternal problem, and a serious one, is the intervention of unskilled people at any stage. When installing, you must definitely check the certificates and make sure in any way possible that your installers are smart people. It is categorically not recommended to install a fire alarm on your own - if you do this, the responsibility lies entirely with you. It is also unacceptable to try to eliminate minor breakdowns, even if they seem to be completely solvable - in this case, specialists should be called.

Like any other system, a fire alarm fails over time due to wear and tear - usually a service life is set for it, after which all its parts will have to be changed even if it still responds to an annoying factor during testing.

All other reasons are usually quite banal and are associated with the failure of one of the nodes, which is not even directly part of the system - for example, in the absence of electricity, the network system, of course, does not work. Due to inaccurate handling, the power cables or the communication channel with the fire control panel may be damaged, the loop may fail or the siren alerting those present may break. A purely software failure in the form of an incorrect date and time is also possible, which may cause more serious consequences.

Installing a motion sensor for lighting: three schemes correct connection, step-by-step instructions, as well as answers to questions about the response time. + TEST for self-test.

By connecting correctly to the light bulb sensor, people will be able to avoid energy costs. Motion Sensor very convenient. He turns on and off the light without a person. But to connect, you should know about the nuances that it is not advisable to violate.

TEST:

To understand if you have enough information to self connection and sensor settings, you should pass a small test:
  1. What is the difference between the black and red wire inside the device? a) Red should be connected to the phase conductor, and black to the system neutral conductor.
    b) Nothing, these are the same wires that have a different color depending on the model of the device.
  2. Is it allowed to mount the sensor near windows?a) Yes.
    b) No.
  3. If inside an apartment or a private house there are many windows through which daylight penetrates, then the sensor with which regulator should be purchased? a) "Sence".
    b) Lux.
  4. What should be done if the purchased sensor, which is equipped with the “Sense” regulator, does not work when a person passes right by it? a) Increase its sensitivity.
    b) Decrease sensitivity.

Right answers:

  1. b) The wires differ in their color, they differ depending on the selected sensor model.
  2. b) Sensors should not be installed near windows, as daylight will interfere with its operation and you will have to adjust the device to the desired level of illumination.
  3. b) If the house has a lot of windows and daylight sources, then a “Lux” sensor is needed. It will work when there is less light inside the room.
  4. a) If the sensor did not work when a person passed right in front of him, then you should increase the sensitivity level of the device.

The principle of operation and 4 types of motion sensors for lighting

Motion Sensor captures the location of the object and launches the necessary actions after that. If the device is connected to electricity, then in response to any human movements, the device will close the circuit and turn on the lighting.

This is due to the changes taking place in the thermal field as the temperature rises. The process occurs due to fluctuations in the air in the room.

The principle of operation will differ depending on the type of equipment.

  1. An infrared device detects changes in the thermal field.
  2. Microwave and ultrasonic work with the help of sound vibrations.
  3. The ultrasonic sensor is the most modern, because it scans the movement even through obstacles - through the wall.
  4. The combined device is able to capture several types of radiation at once.

It should be noted that to connect lighting to motion sensor 12v will suffice.

In order for the device to always start functioning on time, you need to choose the right place:

  1. It is best to mount the device near the ceiling or doorway, so you can supply current when a person comes from a lighted room to a dark one.
  2. Mounting the selected sensor in the center of the wall is contraindicated - the door will disappear from the viewing area.
  3. The device should be located further from the windows, otherwise the sensor will additionally have to be adjusted to the optimal degree of illumination.
  4. When there are several doors in a room, several sensors must be installed. But there is an option to mount one, in the very corner of the room. To do this, you should buy a device with a space coverage of 120 degrees.
  5. When installing equipment on landing, it is best to mount it to the ceiling and above the stairs so that the device picks up vibrations at the bottom and top of the stairs.

Otherwise, the device will not work at all as expected.

3 wiring diagrams

There are several ways to correctly connect the device to the mains. Three paths must be followed:



For each specific situation You will need to choose one of these connection methods. Conditions are always different and there is no universal option.

  1. PUE 6.5.7;
  2. SNiP 23-05-95.

How to connect a motion sensor

8 steps to connect the sensor


Lighting devices will work correctly only if they are installed in a certain way:

  1. In the room where the device is installed, it is necessary to turn off the electricity. This is done by clicking on tumbler, on electric shield in the House. If the installation is in a multi-storey apartment, then the "box" is located in the corridor.
  2. From the back of the structure sensor carefully remove the cover behind which the terminals will be located. This is done with a screwdriver. There will be small screws at the bottom of the device. They need to be unlocked.
  3. Inside the sensor are several wires that have different colour. Brown must be connected to the phase conductor, which is pulled through junction box. Blue is connected to the neutral conductor. Inside the device is a red or black wiring. Both of them will play a role in the output terminal - it will be she who will connect the sensor to lighting devices.
  4. It is necessary to make a small hole so that the wires come out of there. It is worth noting that after installation, they will not be visible to anyone behind the equipment, so there is no need to worry about the aesthetic appearance.
  5. The wire that will stick out of the wall must be inserted into the hole in the cover, which must immediately be attached to the wall. The electrical wiring must be located exclusively vertically, otherwise it is easy to damage it when fastening is carried out.
  6. The power cable should be shortened, the length should be no more than 7 cm - this is quite enough for correct installation. It is necessary to remove 5 mm of the insulating layer from the cores. This is necessary in order to connect the cable to the device (terminals).
  7. The wire that conducts electric current must be connected to the L, N and LC terminals that are located on the device.
  8. Now the case should be mounted on the selected zone. The terminal block must be placed in a niche that is located on the back wall.

Another important thing to know: When installing sensor, all wires should be carefully bent so that they do not interfere with the assembly of the device.

There are situations when sensor must be connected with a switch. This must be done so that the switch communicates with the lighting fixture and sensor. This is done in the following way:

  1. There is a wire that will stretch from the switch to the light bulb.
  2. You need to connect another one to it, which will go to the red contact.
  3. We take the wire that is located on the other side of the switch, and insert it into the contact, painted brown. It will automatically extinguish the glow.
  4. The wire that belongs to the lamp must be pulled to the terminal sensor movement.

Connecting a motion sensor for lighting

1 operating error

It is worth noting that very often people make mistakes during installation. sensor. Often there are cases when poor contact is established at the neutral wire. This can happen if something gets inside the device. construction garbage, or the terminals are not connected well. This forms a layer of soot, which contributes to heating. The contact will disappear due to oxidation.

It is also important to know: 2 nuances about wires.

If sensor does not work, you must first check all the wires, clean them of debris and soot, if necessary, and then press them with high quality. If the aluminum strands are deformed or broken, then it will cause the entire system to malfunction. To check the condition, you must use a voltmeter - the probe should be put to the terminals. But there are situations when the device does not work even when voltage is detected using the device. Then the lamp needs to be replaced.

It may happen that the light does not go out, even if the equipment is fully functional. To solve this problem, you need to check the time period that is set to sensor. Most likely, the value turned out to be too large and the contact responsible for the functioning of the lamp cannot open. Then you need to set the time delay to a smaller period.

Answers to 5 frequently asked questions about setting the trip time

Often people ask questions about the time that should be set on the device. Must be installed right time triggering.

  1. Sensor the light that is placed on the stairs must be set for a few minutes, since few people linger more on the site. There should be enough time to, for example, find the keys and use them to open the door.
  2. When installing in a utility room, you should set the time to 15 minutes, because in this room you need to find something, and then take it out.
  3. It is necessary to set the operation delay after sensor captures the movement. To correctly set this value, you should know the speed of movement of a person. For example, if the landlord quickly crosses the corridor, then an abbreviated parameter called “Time” should be compiled.
  4. The "Lux" knob must be adjusted so that the appliance turns on when the light becomes less.
    If the room has a lot of windows through which daylight is distributed, it is necessary to equip the room exclusively with sensor, which has the "Lux" knob.
  5. The sensitivity of the device is determined by the "Sense" parameter. Its value will be influenced by the remoteness of the device from the moving person, his weight, forcing sensor turn on. Therefore, in the situation when the device is triggered at the wrong time, it is necessary to reduce its sensitivity. You need to consider upgrading when sensor does not fire when a person walks past it.

Top 3

There are many kinds sensors. But there are three manufacturers. They guarantee quality and reliability.

  1. Theben.
  2. Rev Ritter.
  3. camelion.

Motion Sensor- This is a complex device that needs to be adjusted to individual characteristics. If you ignore the rules, the device will not work in the prescribed mode. There is no need to purchase a device at a high price, since there are not too many expensive models that have already established themselves in the market as a reliable means. The most suitable options were indicated. These are the best ones to buy for your home.

Following all the instructions, it is possible to customize the equipment to suit your individual needs. In such a situation, problems with work sensor can be wisely avoided.

In case of malfunctions, they are quite easy to fix on your own.

Motion sensors are lighting control devices that react by switching on the supply voltage to the movement of objects in their "sector of responsibility". Such devices were not so long ago used only in security systems of various organizations. But now it is a technology available to everyone. They show themselves perfectly in the illumination of local areas. Motion sensors are widely used in residential buildings, private and multi-apartment, significantly increasing the comfort of operation of lighting systems. In addition, thanks to such improvements, considerable savings in consumption can be achieved.

In the assortment of stores there are many lighting devices that are already equipped with a motion sensor. Installing them is, of course, easier. But often there is a need to spread the lighting device and the sensor at a certain distance. In principle, this should not cause difficulties either. In this article, we will see how to connect a motion sensor to an LED spotlight, used, for example, to illuminate the yard.

The principle of operation of the motion sensor

Motion sensors are mounted not only for lighting adjoining territory but also inside the house. For example, a device installed on a staircase will turn on the lights only when it is really necessary - if someone goes up or down it.

Each sensor is designed for a specific sector, located in the field of his "vision". The principle of operation is simple - if the movement of objects is noted in this area, then the circuit that supplies power to the lighting devices is closed. Therefore, the efficiency of the system is determined by the correct choice of the installation site, that is, the creation of the “view” of the controlled area necessary under specific conditions.


Lighting devices connected to the sensor can be turned on only for the duration of the movement of the object in the sector, or with a subsequent turn-off delay from several seconds to 10÷15 minutes. This parameter is preset by the user.

Varieties of motion sensors

Such lighting control devices are evaluated according to several criteria when choosing.

Sensor installation location

Everything is simple here - sensors can be designed for outdoor installation or for work inside the house.

Outdoor sensors are designed to monitor the areas adjacent to the house. They usually differ in quite significant parameters of the range of perception. In some devices, it can be hundreds of meters. True, for use on the scale of the courtyard of a private house, such ranges are not particularly relevant.


Such systems are convenient for owners when lighting the yard, for example, when returning home or leaving the house in the dark. The light will be on until the person leaves the sensor sector, and then automatically turn off. And for security purposes, such a device will be superfluous. A bright spotlight that suddenly turns on will surely frighten off an intruder who is trying to get into a protected area under the cover of darkness.

Internal sensors are designed to work indoors. They differ from outdoor devices in a smaller field of view, poor protection from atmospheric influences of various kinds. It is clear that their cost is usually much lower.

Prices for motion sensors

Motion Sensor

Check out the requirements and options for automation in our new article on our portal -

Built-in and stand-alone sensors

This criterion has much in common with the above. But it already predetermines the initial constructive relationship of the sensor with the lighting device connected to it.


  • The lighting device itself and the motion sensor can initially be assembled in one housing. It is clear that this is the most convenient option for mounting. All internal switching has already been done, and it remains only to connect such a spotlight to the laid power line.

  • The second option - the motion sensor is placed in a separate case, but fixed on the spotlight. Such models are also mounted quite simply. They are connected like a regular spotlight, since the luminaire and sensor are already connected by the manufacturer.

  • The motion sensor is made in a separate housing, which is installed in the optimal place for its operation. It is for such cases that a scheme for connecting the sensor to the spotlight is required.

Principle of response to moving objects

According to the underlying principle of detecting moving objects, sensors can be infrared, ultrasonic, microwave and combined.

  • infrared sensors. The operation of these devices is based on the control of temperature changes. When objects with an elevated temperature enter the sensor's tracking area, it reacts by turning on the power of the lighting device.

Infrared sensors are most often installed indoors. And they are set up in such a way that they react to the movements of people, ignoring pets.

This type of device includes a complex of special mirrors and lenses that affect the sensor. The sensitivity of the sensor depends on how many lenses it has, and there can be up to thirty pairs of them in one device.


Infrared sensors have their positive and negative sides expressed in the following features:

Advantagesdisadvantages
The devices allow you to set the range and angle of the response sector as accurately as possible.When installing the sensor in a house, the sensor may falsely trigger on an increase in temperature in a certain area. These "troublemakers" are often portable heaters that radiate heat Appliances e.g. electric kettle
The infrared sensor reacts only to objects with an elevated temperature, so it can be used for installation outside buildings.Possible failures of the device under the influence of atmospheric phenomena.
Complete sensor safety for human and pet health.The instrument may not respond to infrared resistant materials.
Small adjustment range.
  • ultrasonic sensors. The functioning of this type of device is based on the reflection of ultrasound from the surfaces of various objects. This principle of operation of the sensor allows you to determine moving objects by changing the frequency of reflected pulses (Doppler effect). This device picks up ultrasound, which is inaccessible to human hearing.

We list the "pros" and "cons" of such devices

  • Microwave sensors. The principle of operation of these devices is based on radar. That is, they send a pulse and receive a reflected signal, just like ultrasonic ones. But only the signals already lie in the radio frequency range.

Microwave sensors are considered more advanced than their ultrasonic "competitors". They are more sensitive, less susceptible to atmospheric interference.

Advantagesdisadvantages
High sensitivity to any movement of living or inanimate objects The ability of microwave sensors to detect movement even behind a thin wall or behind glass.High sensitivity can also be attributed to the disadvantages of the sensor, since it can also respond to movements occurring outside the monitored area.
Resistant to all weather conditions.The high cost of devices.
The ability to serve several areas of the territory at once.Microwave radiation is not beneficial to human health.
  • Combined motion sensors. The design of these devices uses two or even all three principles of its response to the appearance of moving objects in the area of ​​responsibility.

Control in a dedicated sector with the help of such devices is carried out more efficiently than with the use of "narrow profile" sensors. Therefore, we can say that they are the most perfect. But it is also a high cost, as well as the harm of microwave radiation to human health, if the sensor has such a motion recognition system. In this regard, on sale you can often find sensors that include an ultrasonic and infrared sensor.

What else do you pay attention to when buying a motion sensor

If a motion sensor for a spotlight has not yet been purchased, then when choosing it, in addition to the above features of the devices, you should pay attention to the manufacturer and some characteristics that are important for operation.

Prices for LED spotlights

LED Spotlight

  • Among the companies that are popular with consumers because of the quality of their products are Theben and Brennenstuhl (Germany), Orbis (Spain), Russian brands Camelion, Feron, TDM, ERA". Many of the listed devices are assembled in China, but there are no particular complaints about the quality. Yes, and purely Chinese brands "Ultralight" or "REXANT" are also considered quite worthy and competitive models.
  • The permissible load power must be at least not lower than the power consumption of the searchlight intended for joint installation. In general, it is better to have a certain margin, about 30%.
  • For outdoor placement, it is required to choose sensors that have a housing protection class of at least IP44.
  • The most important parameters are the response range and the angular width of the field of view.
  • The manufacturer may indicate the recommended installation height of the sensor. This recommendation should be followed in order to automatic start light worked correctly, without failures and "idle" starts.
  • High-quality devices have several settings - turn-off delay and sensor sensitivity. IN inexpensive models these parameters can be preset and cannot be adjusted. This can be very inconvenient to use.
  • Another element of the setting can be changes in the level of illumination for the operation of the device. As a rule, a photorelay is included in the design of the motion sensor. That is, the device will react to movement by turning on the light only in conditions of insufficient, below the preset level. Agree, there is no point in the operation of such a system during the day.

If there is no photorelay, then you will have to manually turn the power on and off daily. Or still purchase an additional photorelay and include it in general scheme. How this is done will be shown below.

Schemes for connecting a motion sensor to a lighting fixture

Starting this section, it is necessary to immediately note the following. Despite the variety of models, almost all motion sensors are connected to lighting fixtures in a similar way. The exception is luminaires that require voltage conversion. But here the whole difference is that the power supply is included in the circuit.

Prices for LED lamps

LED lamp


The standard version of the connection system for the vast majority of motion sensors is a terminal with three contacts. Two of them are the usual phase (L) and zero (N). The third contact can be denoted by the letter "A", "L out" or even just an outgoing arrow. . But in any case, this is also a phase, but already going to the lighting device when the sensor is triggered.

BUT. Hence the most simple circuit connection of the motion sensor to the LED spotlight.


A few explanations. Power cable 220 volt network combines three conductors. Brown (in the diagram, in reality it may have a different color) - phase L, blue - zero N, and green-yellow - protective earth RE.

grounding RE goes directly to the spotlight - since in most cases there is a metal housing, this measure is necessary condition operational safety.

Zero N is switched in the same way to the corresponding terminals of both devices.

Phase goes to the terminal contact L motion sensor.

And finally from contact BUT sensor terminals, when the device is triggered, the phase will be applied to the contact L searchlights. Thus, when the circuit is closed in the motion sensor, the lighting device will turn on.

B. The diagram shown above assumes the direct connection of the floodlight + motion sensor system to the electrical network. But often they also provide a switch. With it, by the way, there may be different options.

So, the following diagram demonstrates that the switch can be installed in a phase break going to the motion sensor terminals.


It is obvious that when the switch is in the off position, the power is completely interrupted. That is, the motion sensor itself does not work and, accordingly, the phase cannot enter the spotlight in any way. When turned on, the system operates in its characteristic “standby mode”, that is, it reacts by turning on the light to movement in the “responsibility sector”.

IN. But such an arrangement of the switch in the circuit, as shown below, has a completely different purpose.


It is clearly seen that the power to the motion sensor is not interrupted. When the switch is in the “off” position, that is, with open contacts, the system operates in its characteristic mode, that is, the sensor controls the inclusion of the spotlight. But there are often situations when it is required to illuminate a section of the yard, so to speak, on an ongoing basis - the performance of certain chores with the onset of twilight, receiving guests, etc. That is, there should be no dependence on the operation of motion sensors. It's simple - when the switch is on, the light will be on constantly, since the phase in the circuit section shown in the diagram purple, goes directly to the spotlight, bypassing the sensor.

G. You can apply the scheme with two-gang switch. Then, as necessary, you can choose the most appropriate mode of operation of the system at the current moment.


What happens with this scheme:

With both keys off, the system is completely de-energized.

Turning on key No. 1 puts the system into the mode of tracking movement in a given sector and turning on the spotlight by the sensor.

Turning on key #2 (regardless of the position of key #1) simply turns on the spotlight directly.

D. Sometimes the complex configuration of the territory (premises) forces the installation of two motion sensors, or even more. In this case, they are placed so that the "sector of responsibility" of one intersects with the zone of the other. That is, a moving person is constantly in the field of view of the instruments.

It is most convenient in such cases to make a parallel connection of motion sensors. An example is shown in the diagram below.


It is clear that in operation both devices are completely independent of each other, but each of them is equally capable of controlling the spotlight.

Less commonly used is a sequential connection of sensors, when the phase for each subsequent device comes from the control terminal BUT the previous one. It is unlikely that this method will be appropriate in the yard in combination with a spotlight. Therefore, the scheme does not make much sense.

E. It has already been said above, but let's clarify - most household motion sensors are designed to work on a 200 V network. But it may be necessary for one reason or another to connect a lamp that requires a constant low voltage (12, 24 or 36 volts). This is often practiced, for example, in other outbuildings that require increased security measures.

So, the scheme is somewhat modified.


The conductors of the working zero and ground are connected to the power supply. And the phase arrives at it according to the same principle as shown above - through a motion sensor. And already a constant voltage is removed from the power supply, which, in compliance with the polarity, is transmitted to the lighting device.

J. Another scheme that rarely has to be resorted to in modern conditions, but still ... This is in case you happen to deal with an outdated motion sensor model that does not have its own built-in photo relay. It turns out that if you leave such a system in working condition during daylight hours, the device will still turn on no one the right lighting when "notching" a moving object.

De-energizing in the morning, and starting in the evening is often simply forgotten. The problem is solved by installing another device in the circuit - a photo relay. This, by the way, is just the device that automatically turns on street lighting at dusk.

A circuit with a separate photo relay will look like this:


There is nothing complicated. Moreover, the principle of the arrangement of contacts on the terminals of the photorelay exactly coincides with the motion sensor.

Important - the phase from the power supply comes exactly to the terminal L photorelay. And then from the output terminal BUT fed to the input L sensor. And then - according to the scheme already known to us.

The automation of the photorelay is set (or allows you to adjust) to a certain level of illumination. As soon as it falls below the set limit, the relay is activated, and the phase will go to the motion sensor. That is, during the day it is de-energized, but with the onset of twilight it is included in the work. And when power is supplied to it, it starts to track the movement of objects in its sector, closing the power supply circuit of the searchlight if necessary.

* * * * * * *

All the main schemes for connecting a motion sensor to a lighting device were considered. It can be noted once again that despite the very wide variety of models, the principle of their connection remains common.


In addition, if the device is purchased in a store, then instructions will be attached to it. It usually details all aspects of installing a motion sensor - mounting in place, electrical switching and fine final adjustment of the adjustable parameters.

It's hard to add anything. Unless you can just watch a video in which the master makes a small review of the FERON Sen 11 infrared motion sensor. And then he shows the principle of its inclusion in the circuit with spotlight. After watching, everything should become completely clear.

Video: How the motion sensor is connected and tested "FERONSen 11"

* * * * * * *

So, connecting a motion sensor to a spotlight or a regular lamp usually does not cause difficulties even for novice masters. In addition, each manufacturer necessarily provides the buyer with instructions and a scheme for assembling the system, which further simplifies the task. But during the work, in addition to the recommendations of the instructions, all safety requirements must be observed without fail. Electricity does not like and often does not forgive negligence, neglect of the rules and other "jokes". All electrical installation operations should be carried out only after the master is guaranteed that the wiring at the work site is de-energized.