The Aereco ventilation system is a system for organizing indoor air exchange:
- with air inflow through passive supply devices, window or wall (hygro-regulated and manually controlled),
– removal of air through ventilation ducts. Exhaust air is removed into the atmosphere by natural induction or with the help of Aereco central fans.
The air flow is regulated by special exhaust grilles (hygro-regulated, with a presence sensor, manually controlled, etc.) installed instead of the regular ones in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen, respectively.

How does the Aereco ventilation system work?

The Aereco ventilation system fully complies with the basic requirements for air exchange in residential premises:
- air is supplied to the living quarters through supply devices, window or wall,
- air removal - through exhaust grilles located in the bathroom, toilet and kitchen. Accordingly, the ventilation of the bathroom, toilet and kitchen occurs due to the air coming from the living quarters.
Exhaust grilles, different in design, characteristics and purpose, are connected with the help of air ducts to the corresponding inlet pipes of the central fan.
To move the air inside the room, the so-called "undercuts" between the floor and the bottom of the door leaf, or overflow grilles, should be provided in the interior doors.
It should also be noted that the front door must be airtight to prevent "sucking" of air from outside.
The main "driving force" for moving air (ie, to create a vacuum) are central mechanical fans of different performance for different volumes of premises (from 80 to 300 cubic meters per hour), which operate constantly. They have excellent acoustic characteristics and record low power consumption. The fans are equipped with an electronic control system and a temperature sensor to prevent engine overheating.

Another feature of the Aereco ventilation system is that the installation of this system can be carried out at almost any stage of repair work, since interference with the interior is minimal.

How does air get into the room through Aereco supply valves?

All Aereco air inlets (hereinafter referred to as valves) are passive devices, there are no electric motors inside them. The movement of air through the valve is carried out under the condition of functioning of a natural or mechanical exhaust. Another basic condition for air exchange is the presence of an overflow between the rooms (undercutting the door leaf from below by 1.5 cm, or overflow gratings in the door leaf or wall).

Will it become colder in the apartment, because in winter cold air will go through the supply valve?

The heating of the supply ventilation air (the one that we will run through the supply valves) is already included in the design of the heating system of almost all residential buildings. If cold air flowed through the cracks in the old windows in the apartment, and the temperature was 20-21 degrees, then replacing the windows with new ones usually leads to an increase in temperature to 25-27 degrees, this worked out the power reserve of the radiators to heat the ventilation air. Installing Aereco supply valves will bring the temperature back down a little by 1-2 degrees, because. the size of the technological hole for the Aereco valve is much less than the sum of all the slots in the old window. The situation is worse if the house is underheated, and with old windows the temperature was only 15-17 degrees. Then, when installing new windows, the temperature will become comfortable 21-22 degrees and it will be difficult to persuade the client to install an inlet valve and lower the temperature somewhat. It turns out that you have to sacrifice fresh air for the sake of warmth, but both are equally important for normal well-being. In this case, it is important to understand that the window is not a heating device; to increase the temperature in the room, you just need to use additional heat sources.
Don't sacrifice ventilation for heating.

Will the valves themselves freeze in winter?

If the exhaust system works normally in the apartment, then external cold DRY air flows through the ajar valve, pushing the internal WARM HUMID air from the valve body and preventing the appearance of condensate and ice on the body. If the hood in the apartment does not work, the appearance of frost on the valve body is very likely. An important role is played by the efficiency of the heating system of the apartment, the frosting of the valves is affected by the geometry of the window sill (how much it closes the heating radiator), the type and design of the curtains. In office premises in winter, the relative humidity is lower than in apartments and the probability of freezing of valves is much lower. In general, the statistics of the use of thousands of Aereco window valves in Russian climatic conditions shows that in ordinary apartments without increased moisture emissions (repair with "wet" processes, an abundance of flowers and wet linen ....) with normal air exchange and heating, the appearance of frost (hoarfrost) on the body valves up to -20 .... 25 degrees do not occur. In severe frosts of -30 ... .35 degrees, sometimes frost or frost appears on the valve body, in principle, which does not interfere with the operation of the valves and does not lead to their breakdown. This is still a rare occurrence and you have to put up with it. In principle, there are no supply window and wall valves that would never freeze under any conditions.

Why does the humidity in the apartment decrease if in winter the relative humidity of the air is 60-80%?

Humidity in percent is the ratio of the actual amount of water in grams per cubic meter of air to the maximum possible amount of water at a given temperature. How is the dehumidification of the air in the apartment? At -20°C and 80% relative humidity, a cubic meter of air contains about 1 g of water, and at +20°C in a room and 50% relative humidity, about 9 g of water is contained in a cubic meter of air. When outside air enters the apartment from the outside, it heats up, but the water content in it remains the same and the RELATIVE humidity decreases. For example: a cubic meter of external air with 1g of water mixed with a cubic meter of internal air with 9g of water and heated up to 20°C. It turned out 2 cubic meters of warm air with a water content of 5 grams per cubic meter. And this already corresponds to about 30% relative humidity. Thus, from 50% humidity decreased to 30%.
For information: in winter, in an average Moscow apartment, with normal ventilation, the following level of relative humidity is set: at minus 20 degrees - about 18-20%, at minus 10 degrees - about 25%, at 0 degrees - about 30%. Under such conditions, there is no fogging of the double-glazed window and the body of the supply unit. With normal ventilation!

And how will the Aereco air supply device work in summer?

If we are talking about ventilation with natural air removal, then in summer, indeed, thermal draft almost disappears and ventilation problems appear. This is especially noticeable on the upper floors of multi-storey buildings. This is problem. And we do not hide it. But this is not a problem of Aereco air handling units. The solution to this problem is the installation of a complete Aereco ventilation system with mechanical exhaust air removal.

Do I need air inlets or ventilation at all if I have air conditioners?

Air conditioners in the form of common split systems have nothing to do with ventilation, they drive air from the room back to the room, filtering it and cooling (heating) along the way. The client is simply breathing cool, dirty air, not warm, dirty air. Excess carbon dioxide and oxygen deficiency remain. Experience shows that Aereco valves work well in tandem with split systems, complementing their temperature control function with an air exchange function.

How to let in air from the street, it is dirty and dusty?

Yes, indeed, the air quality in our city leaves much to be desired, this is a problem of all large cities. But it would be naive to think that closed hermetic eurowindows will create a good microclimate in the apartment. On the contrary, the air quality will be even worse, because. the occupants themselves are a strong source of air pollution (carbon dioxide, kitchen odors, smoke, sweat, etc.). Only ventilation of the premises allows the removal of gaseous products of human vital activity. To clean the air, you can use various devices for filtering and disinfecting the air in the room.

I have a “vest” apartment (that is, the windows face different sides). Will there be a blowing effect through the supply valves?

If the windows of the rooms of the apartment face different sides of the house, then the wind will blow the apartment. To do this, use air flow restrictors specially designed by Aereco for such cases.

How to use the Aereco valve in a room with a glazed balcony (loggia)?

The valve on the window of such a room is installed as usual, but measures must be taken for unhindered air access to the balcony. To do this, it is necessary either to constantly keep one of the balcony glazing sashes slightly open or to make a hole in the balcony glazing binding as for mounting the damper, but close it from the inside and outside with standard Aereco visors.

How can you get rid of condensation on the walls in the bathroom?

Contrary to popular belief, the problem is not always related to the insufficient area of ​​the natural ventilation exhaust grille in the bathroom. But this problem directly depends on the lack of supply devices in the main premises. In fact, only the air that got there can be removed from the premises. But insufficient air flow inside residential premises, which occurs due to the lack of flow between rooms, as well as the use of sealed windows without air inlets, can lead to inadequate ventilation of wet rooms.

Can I install air inlets in the kitchen?

The organization of air exchange in the general case should take place as follows: air is supplied to the living rooms, and the exhaust hood should be organized in the bathroom and kitchen. At the same time, according to paragraph 9.6 of SNiP 31-01-2003 “Residential multi-apartment buildings”: “In residential premises and kitchens, air flow is provided through adjustable window sashes, transoms, vents, valves or other devices, including autonomous wall air valves with adjustable opening. Thus, when designing an Aereco ventilation system, one should focus on the individual characteristics of a particular object.

If the kitchen has a gas stove, what steps should I take to ensure proper ventilation?

Depending on the type of gas equipment, these steps are very different. If your gas stove is self-contained, this means that the air for the combustion process comes from outside through a special duct, in which case an additional supply in the kitchen is not required. On the other hand, when a gas stove consumes air from the room to maintain the gas combustion process, an additional air supply is needed. To check the dimensions of such a duct and the amount of additional inflow, refer to the relevant regulations.

Is the exhaust hood in the kitchen compatible with ventilation?

Depending on the type of kitchen hood, there are different options:
- the over-stove umbrella filter takes dirty air from the stove, filters it and returns it to the room. Can be used with natural ventilation systems and centralized mechanical ventilation systems;
– passive extraction connected to ducts: only with centralized mechanical ventilation systems.

Chimney pipes can be connected to ventilation?

With natural draft ventilation, there is no risk that smoke will be drawn back into the room, since when the fireplace is in operation, its chimney gives a significantly greater draft effect compared to standard natural draft ventilation ducts. If there is a centralized mechanical ventilation, an automatic device must turn off the centralized ventilation when using the fireplace in order to avoid side draft from the fireplace to the premises.

How high is the electricity consumption of the Aereco ventilation system?

For example, for a typical 3-room apartment with a separate bathroom and electric stove, one Aereco model VAM767 fan is enough. At an air flow rate of 200 m3/h, the consumption will be 44 W/h, i.e. 1.056 kW per day. This is approximately 380 kW per year, which is approximately 900 rubles at the rate of Moscow for a full-fledged ventilation system.

Will the Representative Office of Aereco JSC help in the calculation and selection of equipment for my facility?

For the convenience of our partners, the Representative Office of Aereco JSC has created a design department that will make a technical calculation (design solution) for your customer on equipping the facility with the Aereco ventilation system. We do this work for you free of charge.
The efficiency of the design department directly depends on the completeness of the initial data that are necessary for calculations according to your Terms of Reference:
1. Customer information:
- Telephone,
- Fax,
– E-mail,
- FULL NAME. contact person,
2. Purpose of the building,
3. Construction area,
4. Explication of premises,
5. Construction drawings:
- floor plans indicating the dimensions and elevations relative to ground level;
- BTI plan;
- sections of the building;
– orientation of facades;
– drawings of window profiles (sash, frame, impost).
– 3-4 photographs of the facade of the building, supplementing the sections of the object along the basement floors, attic and roof;
6. The main characteristics of the accepted building structures of the building: - external and internal walls; - window openings; - doors; - floors and coatings;
7. The number of people in each room;
8. Availability of office equipment in each room (for offices);
9. Heating load (calculation of the heating system);
10. Preferences when choosing the type of supply device - window or wall;
11. Location and characteristics of existing ventilation and air conditioning systems.

P.S. The presence of construction drawings in formats readable by the program "AutoCAD" (AutoCAD) is welcome.

Such work, of course, is a very important point in the construction process, which includes the selection of the necessary equipment, as well as determining the design and parameters of ventilation units. Such complex engineering work must be carried out by professional specialists who have the necessary software.

You can calculate ventilation in a regular Excel.

The Vent-Calc program is designed for calculation and design of ventilation systems. This software allows you to select the air duct in accordance with the specified conditions (temperature, flow and allowable air speed). The basis of Vent-Calc is the method of hydraulic calculation of air ducts using the Altshul formulas:

1. Hydraulic calculation of the duct.
2. In accordance with the formulas VSN 353-86 - calculation and selection of elements of the ventilation system (bends, branches, narrowing and expansion of the channel).
3. Calculation of the natural ventilation system, that is, the selection of sections of the ventilation duct in such a way that the draft in the duct is higher than the resistance at the specified air flow.
4. Calculation of the thermal power of the air heater (air heater).

Due to the fact that the program works with the results of formulas, and not fixed calculated values ​​\u200b\u200band tables, the results obtained can sometimes differ slightly from the tabular ones.

Working window of the Vent-Calc program

CADvent program

CADvent is a ventilation calculation program based on AutoCAD with a complete set of tools for drawing, modeling and presenting HVAC systems. It belongs to the category of engineering tools for professional designers who develop ventilation, heating and air conditioning systems.

This software allows:

1. Easily and quickly create projects in 3D and 2D graphics.
2. Improve project visualization performance by quickly responding to various errors.
3. Correct the technical data of products used in the project.
4. Calculate air, pressure, leaks and noise.
5. Use visualization and presentation tools that help to present the project in the most realistic way.
6. Use calculations of noise characteristics and pressure levels, which are displayed in reports that are easily exported to an Excel file.

To ensure normal air exchange in a house or apartment, two components are necessary: ​​the inflow of fresh air through the living rooms and its outflow from the technical ones. Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is one of the components of the outflow. Therefore, it is necessary to do it right.

According to the principle of operation, ventilation can be natural or mechanical, they also say - forced. The natural movement of air occurs due to the movement of wind, temperature differences and, resulting from this, pressure drops. When mechanical ventilation is used, air movement is caused by fans.

From the point of view of an urban man, forced movement is preferable: everyone has long been accustomed to the fact that life support depends on the availability of electricity. And it rarely disappears in cities. But in rural areas in winter, power outages are rather the norm. Therefore, probably, they tend to mainly make systems non-volatile, or at least redundant.

But the natural ventilation in the bathroom and bathroom should be too large. After all, the lower the speed of air movement through the channel, the greater the cross section of the duct is needed to ensure the transfer of the required volumes. No one will argue that when the fan is on, the air moves faster. This is even reflected in the SNiP: the rate of movement for ventilation systems with natural circulation is up to 1 m 3 / h, for mechanical ones - from 3 to 5 m 3 / h. Therefore, for the same room and conditions, the dimensions of the channels will be different. For example, to transfer a flow of 300 m 3 / h, you will need:

Therefore, few people today manage with natural ventilation. Unless in small houses (up to 100 sq. m.). Even in apartments with channels leading to the roof, bathrooms and toilets are ventilated using fans.

Organization rules

When installing an air movement system, you need to remember the basic principle: in order for everything to work efficiently, it is necessary to ensure the flow of air through the living rooms and its flow into the technical ones. From there, he leaves through the ventilation ducts.

Today, air flow has become a problem: by reducing heating costs, we have cut off almost all sources of its supply. We install airtight windows, we insulate the walls through which at least a little air enters with airtight materials. The third source - entrance doors - today, almost all have iron ones, with a rubber seal. There was, in fact, the only way - airing. But we do not abuse it at all: it blows out heat. As a result, to the problems of lack of oxygen in the room, the problem of dampness is added: there is no inflow, and the outflow is inefficient. Even forced.

If you want the ventilation to be normal, and the walls in the rooms not to “wet”, make ventilation holes. There is such an option on metal-plastic windows, and there are separate devices that are mounted anywhere on the wall. They are available with adjustable shutters, of various shapes and sizes, and are covered with bars from the outside. It is best to install under the windows, above or behind the batteries. Then they are not visible in the room, and in winter the air coming from the street is heated.

Having ensured the inflow, care must be taken to ensure that it enters the technical premises through the doors. Therefore, there should be gaps under all doors: through them, air will flow into other rooms. It is advisable to install a ventilation grill in the bathroom doors and / or also make a gap of at least 2 cm from the floor. The same rules apply to other technical rooms: kitchen and toilet. Only if there is movement of air masses will ventilation work.

The doors of technical rooms - kitchens, bathrooms, toilets - must have ventilation grilles or valves. There are even valves with noise absorption, and the smell, if properly organized, will never get into other rooms

Calculation of fan performance for bathroom and toilet

To decide which fan to put on the bathtub with a toilet, you need to calculate the necessary air exchange. The calculation is a whole system, but when installing a fan, the main attention is paid to its characteristics: it provides the required air speed. In order not to interfere in the calculations, its performance can be taken according to average numbers.

Air exchange rate for different rooms. With their help, ventilation is calculated in the bathroom and toilet

As you can see from the table (this is from SNiP), for a bathroom, at least 25 m 3 / h should be “pumped” per hour, for a toilet or a combined bathroom, the speed should be twice as high - 50 m 3 / h. These are the minimum values. In reality, through three (or two) technical rooms - a kitchen, a toilet, a bathroom - as much air should leave as it enters through the supply ventilation.

The calculation of the inflow is carried out according to the volume of all residential premises and usually exceeds it by 1.5-2 times, and the minimum values ​​\u200b\u200bindicated in the table are not enough to ensure the required air exchange. Therefore, the performance of the fans is taken with at least a double margin, and even more for kitchens: this way there will be no unpleasant odors in the apartment, as well as dampness and fungi. Therefore, when going to the bathroom with a fan with a lower capacity than 100 m 3 / h, it is better not to take it.

Choice

First of all, you need to decide where you will put the fan: in the duct or on the wall. Accordingly, the type: channel or wall. In wall-mounted versions, there can also be two types: for installation at the inlet of the ventilation duct - they create more pressure, and for ductless installation - exit directly through the wall to the street. For a channelless installation, axial-type fans are usually used - they cannot create a pressure of more than 50 Pa; for this reason, they are not installed in channels.

In addition to the performance that you calculated, another important characteristic is the noise level. The smaller it is, the better. It is good if the noise level is no more than 35 dB.

Another thing to pay attention to is the level of electrical safety. For use in rooms with high humidity, a protection level of at least IP 44 is required (indicated on the fan housing).

Connecting a fan in the bathroom

For the fan to work, power is needed and the main question is how to connect it. There are several possibilities:

• Connect in parallel with lighting. When you turn on the light in the bathroom or toilet, the fan automatically starts. But it also turns off automatically when the light is turned off. For the toilet, this situation is normal, but for the bathroom - not always. For example, after taking a hot shower, all the steam will not go away. Therefore, for bathrooms, you can use a different way to connect the fan or set a shutdown delay (a special device on which you can set the time interval after which the power will turn off).

• Output to a separate switch key or put a separate toggle switch / button.
• Set a timer that will automatically power up according to a schedule.

The electrical part is the hardest part. You will have to punch a strobe in the wall, “pack” the power cable into it, bring it to the installation site of the switch and connect it there, depending on the chosen method.

Checking the ventilation duct

Installing a fan in the bathroom with your own hands begins after checking the condition of the channel. To do this, remove the grate, if it has not been dismantled yet, and bring a flame (candle, lighter) or a piece of paper to the hole. If the flame or leaf is pulled steadily towards the channel, the draft is normal. If it stretches, then bends back - the thrust is unstable. In this case, if you live in an apartment building, smells from neighbors upstairs or downstairs can get to you. Then the smell in the toilet from the ventilation is possible. Traction needs to be stabilized.

If the flame or leaf almost does not deviate, the channel is clogged or blocked. In this case, mold and dampness, as well as unpleasant odors are guaranteed throughout the apartment, and in the bathroom, so be sure.

In case of abnormal draft, residents of high-rise buildings clean the channels themselves or call maintenance services. In private homes, in any case, everything falls on the shoulders of the owners. If the channel is unstable, you may have taken it out without taking into account the wind rose and the thrust periodically overturns. You can solve the problem by moving the exit, but it's not easy. To begin with, you can try to put a deflector (if it is not there) or slightly increase / decrease the height.

Features of forced ventilation in the bathroom

When the fan is installed while it is running, the amount of air discharged increases significantly. But due to the fact that the case covers part of the channel section, at other times, when the fan is not working, the flow decreases three times. As a result, the overall performance of the ventilation system drops.

To prevent this from happening, you can install a fan with an air intake grille located below and thus increase the performance to normal. The second option is to leave a gap of 1.5-2 cm between the case and the wall during installation, i.e. make legs. Air will enter the slot and ventilation will be normal in any case. See the video for more on this.

Having chosen the installation method and the type of grille, you can proceed directly to the installation. Fan sizes may vary. Therefore, each case is individual. But the basic steps are standard:

• A hole must be made on the tile under the body. The easiest way is to attach a fan and outline. Then, with a special nozzle on a drill or a grinder, cut a hole of the appropriate size.
• Remove the front panel from the fan. It is attached with one bolt at the bottom. The bolt was unscrewed, the grille was removed. Holes for fasteners are now visible. We insert the fan in this form into place (into the channel), mark on the tile with a pencil or marker the place where the bolts will be.
• With a drill of the appropriate diameter, we make holes in the tile and wall to fit the size of the dowel.
• We make an incision in the tile, where we will pass the power wire.
• We insert dowels.
• We stretch electrical wires through a special hole on the fan housing (if there is no hole, it is drilled).
• We install in place, tighten the bolts.
• We connect the wires.
• We check the performance and install the grate.
• For wooden toilets, all this is only partly true. Read about

  Ventilation in the bathroom in a private house

  Here the main difficulties may arise in the construction of exhaust channels. When planning, they can be brought together in one place and then brought to the roof. This is more difficult in terms of internal wiring - you will have to pull the ducts to the right place, and also more expensive during construction. But the look is solid.

  

  Another way to arrange ventilation ducts: bring it through the wall, and then lift it up along the outer wall. According to the rules, for normal draft with natural ventilation, they should rise 50 cm above the ridge. But one common duct will be brought out by you or a separate one for each room - it depends on your desire or on the layout. The picture will look something like this.

  

  There is another option: to make a mechanical hood that will work exclusively from the fan. Then, depending on the layout, one of the two options presented in the photo is suitable.

  

  In the first case (on the left), the exhaust hole is made right in the upper part of the wall (in order for air exchange to be effective, it must be located opposite the door, obliquely, at the top). With this device, a conventional wall fan is used. The same figure shows how the number of required channels can be reduced. If your bathroom and toilet rooms are nearby, through a thin partition, then you can make a hole in the partition and install a grate. In this case, the ventilation of the bath will go through the toilet.

  In the second option (pictured on the right), an air duct with a duct fan is used. The solution is simple, only there is one caveat: if the air duct ends under the roof overhang (it is short in the photo, but there are also long ones), then the tree will turn black after a while. If you draw a conclusion from the toilet this way, this may not happen, and in the case of the bathroom, high humidity will make itself felt in a couple of years. In this case, you can “pull out” the air duct to the roof cut or bring it up through the knee (but raise it 50 cm above the roof).

High-quality ventilation in the bathroom will help protect the newly renovated bathroom from mold and high humidity. Proper ventilation in the bathroom prevents the formation of condensate from hot steam, which serves as an excellent medium for the spread of fungi. Over time, mold and mildew become increasingly difficult to remove from the surface of walls and furniture.

Ventilation in living quarters

In rooms with increased accumulation of humidity, natural or forced ventilation can be organized, sometimes both are used at the same time for greater effect. Each of them has its own characteristic features.

Forced exhaust in the bathroom

Unlike natural ventilation, this option requires a more serious approach to installation. He successfully copes with the problem of eliminating condensate. Forced ventilation is chosen if the existing hood does not cope with its functions. Checking its operation is simple, just bring a burning match to the ventilation duct. If the flame from it oscillates from side to side or tends upward, then everything is in order. In any other case, you need to do a forced ventilation project.

It is better to lay forced ventilation at the design stage of the house. But if it is needed in an apartment, then ventilation ducts are already provided there.

Ventilation in a bathroom in a wooden house is needed not only to improve the climate in wet rooms, but also to protect the walls from decay, because over time, logs can deteriorate and collapse when moisture accumulates.

Before you make ventilation in the bathroom, you need to choose an exhaust fan. At the same time, attention should be paid to the following settings:

• Unit power

This indicator is selected depending on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room.

• Device noise level

When turned on, some fans are very noisy, ideally their sound level should not exceed 30 dB.

• Device type

Models of ventilating devices on ball bearings last longer.

There are three types of fans:

1. With a timer.

They work for a certain amount of time, usually no more than half an hour.

1. Combined models with a light switch.

As soon as a person enters the bathroom, the device immediately turns on, but sometimes the time spent by the visitor is not enough for the air to be completely cleared.

1. independent models.

They are not tied to other electrical appliances in the bathroom or toilet, but work according to the established mode.

On a note: The fan in the ventilation in the bathroom must be installed away from electrical appliances, and the electrical wires leading to it must be insulated with high quality.

Installation of ventilation in the bathroom with a ventilating device is carried out in several stages:

• Selecting a suitable location for the fan. Such that he could distill as much of the air as possible through himself.
• Installation of the device on the exhaust shaft, on the roof.
• It is possible to install an extractor hood with a valve in the bathroom window.
• To improve the effect of the fan will help heated towel rails or radiators.
• A check valve must be installed in front of the fan, which would prevent the penetration of air from the outside.
• All air ducts and individual sections of pipes are connected using silicone sealant. Installation of ventilation in the bathroom begins with fixing the central channel, and then installing tees and bends in it.
• After fastening all additional channels, install a check valve on each of them to prevent air from moving from one room to another.

Natural ventilation in the bathroom and toilet

This option is cheaper than the previous one, it can be easily used for different types of housing. When it is installed, the movement of air masses occurs through specially made vertical channels. Such ventilation can be done in the bathroom with your own hands, it is effective even in wooden houses.

A window in the bathroom is another reason to think about natural ventilation.

Installation of natural exhaust in the bathroom begins with the basement. In the foundation of the house, special holes should be laid or windows for ventilation should be provided. Channels for the movement of air inside the building are laid directly in the walls of the building. Sometimes ventilation is carried out in the ceiling in the bathroom, and then goes to the attic.

Answer the question of how to make a hood in the bathroom in a private house and apartment will help the following tips:

• The air duct must run in a vertical plane.
• If you want to combine the hood for the bathroom and the toilet, then according to the project they should be close to each other. It is better if they are located on the same floor.
• The inside of the duct must be smooth so that nothing blocks the movement of air.

On a note: There are projects when the ventilation of a bathroom in a private house is combined with a kitchen, and from there it immediately goes out through a hole in the wall.

Bathroom ventilation connection diagrams

Among the varieties used today, four of the most popular are distinguished, differing from each other in the principle of action:

1. Exhaust circuit

It is often used for bathroom exhaust through the toilet in apartment buildings. The operation of such a scheme is based on the removal of exhaust air through an outlet.

1. Supply and exhaust option

Here, clean air is supplied through a door or window, and the same amount of exhaust air masses go through the vent directly into the ventilation shaft. When arranging such a hood in the bathroom with your own hands, you need to be prepared to prevent the occurrence of drafts in the room.

1. Forced supply and exhaust scheme

This is an effective option for providing ventilation in the bathroom, with it you can adjust the rate and speed of exhaust air removal. After choosing this design, you can not worry about humidity and musty odors. The fan built into the circuit can always adjust the optimal microclimate of the room in time.

1. Exhaust forced ventilation option

It is associated with a lot of noise, but it quickly removes unpleasant odors from the building. It is used when the question arises of how to make general ventilation for the bathroom and toilet. The effectiveness of this option is several times higher than that of a natural extract.

On a note: It will be difficult for a beginner to create proper ventilation in the bathroom without the participation of specialists.

Photo gallery

Those who are thinking about how to properly and effectively extract the hood in the bathroom should consider the photos below. Surely one of these options will help you make the right choice.

Ventilation in the bathroom and toilet is a prerequisite, since it is in these rooms that the general humidity of the air is increased and unpleasant odors are usually present. If the ventilation system is not installed or does not work efficiently enough, then in the bathroom rooms not only a persistent smell will remain, but also a favorable microclimate will quickly be created for the development of mold and mildew, which are very difficult to fight.

Everyone knows that steam and heated air rise up, and if they do not find a way out, then most of the evaporation will sit on the surface of the ceiling and the upper part of the walls, where black spots of microflora colonies can most often be seen. We must not forget that any fungus reproduces by spores that are released into the air. Together with the air, they are then inhaled by households, and this can lead to allergic reactions, diseases of the respiratory system, asthma and other serious ailments.

Basically, the issue of conducting an effective one is faced by the owners of private houses, since in high-rise buildings this is laid down in advance in the building project, and the ventilation ducts are separated into the bathroom and kitchen rooms. However, the information can be useful for apartment owners as well - not always the "regular" ventilation system fully copes with its duties, and certain adjustments need to be made to its work.

Types of ventilation systems

First of all, you should familiarize yourself with the existing ventilation systems of the premises.

Ventilation systems are divided into two main types - natural and forced.

• Natural ventilation works only due to the free movement of air from an area of ​​high pressure to a lower one, that is, without the use of special instruments and devices. It is this type of ventilation that is designed in the apartments of most multi-storey buildings. The size of the ventilation windows (vents) in the bathroom and toilet (separate or combined) and in the kitchen, the configuration and throughput of the ventilation risers are designed in such a way as to create a natural movement of air from the living quarters with the required amount of air exchange.

• Forced ventilation involves the installation of fans. Very often, such a system is installed in bathrooms and kitchens of private houses. However, some homeowners in high-rise buildings, wanting to improve the ventilation of the premises, install a fan in the conditions of the apartment.

In addition, forced ventilation systems are divided, depending on their main functions, into the following types:

• Exhaust ventilation. In this system, air rising under the ceiling is drawn in by a fan and discharged through special channels to the street. Typically, such a scheme is used in combination with a natural ventilation system. This is the most common option for private construction conditions.

For example, this illustration shows an option that is carried out by supplying air from the street, with its further forced removal through the kitchen and sanitary facilities.

• - in this system, the fan works to supply air, and its exit for a full cycle of ventilation is carried out naturally through the ventilation ducts. In practice, in residential construction, such a scheme is rarely used - here it is more important to create conditions for the effective exit of air to the outside in the required volume.
• The supply and exhaust system implies both the injection of air into the premises, and its forced removal from them. It is typical for volumetric structures, for large-area houses, in which the possibilities of natural inflow and outflow of air are clearly not enough.

Fan types

Since the exhaust ventilation system is the most effective for a residential building, with a natural influx of air through the “clean” living quarters and its forced removal through the kitchen and bathroom, it is worth saying a few words about exhaust fans. They are divided into types according to their places of installation - these are axial, channel, roof and radial.

• Axial wall (overhead) fans.

An axial fan consists of a housing in the form of a cylinder, inside which there is a wheel with cantilever blades mounted on the axis of the electric motor. When rotating, the blades capture air and activate its removal from the room.

This type of appliance is fixed in the window of the ventilation duct on the wall (or ceiling) of the bathroom or toilet. It is very easy to install due to a well-thought-out design, and looks quite aesthetically pleasing, so it can be called the most popular for installation both in a private house and in apartment conditions.

• Duct fans.

Inline axial fans are used in household practice not so long ago and not as widely as overhead axial fans, since their independent installation is rather complicated. However, sometimes they cannot be dispensed with, for example, in cases where the area of ​​​​the ventilated room is more than 15 m².

Duct fans are also installed in cases where they want to reduce the noise level from the operation of the device in the bathroom or other rooms of a private house.

This type of fan can be installed in various parts of the ventilation duct. It is placed in a special box-shaped case, or it can itself be a connecting element for two parts of the ventilation pipe. It is very important that the device is freely accessible, as it must be periodically cleaned and lubricated.

There are three types of air ducts in which duct fans are installed - they are flexible, semi-rigid and rigid.

Flexible channels are mounted quite easily, so they are chosen most often. However, they are less reliable and have a much shorter service life than rigid or semi-rigid ducts. A zealous owner will certainly make a choice in favor of reliability.

• Radial fans.

The radial fan consists of a motor located on the axis of rotation of a wheel with blades, which is placed in a closed metal box, which has a characteristic spiral shape.

During operation, the fan blades begin to rotate, capturing air from the room, which from the fan enters through the outlet of the casing into the duct.

For installation in residential buildings, it is recommended to choose radial fans with backward-curved blades. Although they have slightly lower pressure ratings, such devices are distinguished by better “linearity” in adjustments, a large operating range and, most importantly, are not as noisy as compared to fans with forward-curved blades.

Radial fans tolerate high loads well and are quite economical in operation.

• Roof fans.

As you can already understand from the name of these devices, they are installed on the roofs of multi-apartment and private residential buildings.

The design of the roof fan includes such elements as a motor, a wheel with blades on the axis of rotation, vibration isolating (damper) pads, and an auto-regulation device.

The roof fan can be of axial, multi-bladed or radial design. The latter is the most in demand, as it is the least whimsical and provides high performance with minimal energy costs.

Forced ventilation systems can operate both in automatic and manual modes, have one pumping level or several speeds.

• Unregulated ventilation has only two regime positions: "on" and "off".
• A system that has several speeds that are selected by a switch will become more flexible.
• Variable speed fans are the most economical in operation, in which the impeller is given a rotational speed corresponding to the required current load on the system. The change in speed occurs quite smoothly, with the help of special automatic control and management units.

Basic standards and requirements for the organization of ventilation

It's time to move on to the issue of choosing the necessary and the toilet. But immediately the main question will arise about its most important characteristic - performance, that is, the ability to pump a certain amount of air per unit time.

It will be difficult to understand this aspect if, for a start, you do not familiarize yourself with the basic standards for the organization of ventilation in a residential building or apartment.

It is necessary to rely on this issue on the main guiding documents - the relevant sections and annexes of SNiP 41-01-2003 (“Heating, ventilation and air conditioning”) and SNiP 2.08.01-89 * (“Residential buildings”).

According to the requirements of this document, a forced artificial ventilation system must be installed in those rooms where it is necessary according to sanitary standards, but there is no natural ventilation, that is, a window or window, or normal ventilation is not enough.

In order not to refer the reader to the SNiP tables, the following is a summary of the information that will be required to calculate ventilation.

Room type	Ventilation rates		Notes
	Air intake from outside	Exhaust air outside
Residential premises	The air exchange rate is not less than 0.35 times / hour, but at the same time the intake is not less than 30 m³ per person.	-	The calculation is based on the total volume of the entire apartment (house) or on the number of people actually living
	3 m³ for every 1 m² of living space	-	The calculation is based on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bresidential premises of the house
Kitchen
with electric stove	-	Not less than 60 m³/hour
with 2 burner gas stove	-	Not less than 60 m³/hour
with 3 burner gas stove	-	Not less than 75 m³/hour
with 4 burner gas stove	-	Not less than 90 m³/hour
Bathroom	Inflow from the premises of the residential area	Not less than 25 m³/hour
Separate restroom	Inflow from the premises of the residential area	Not less than 25 m³/hour
Bathroom combined (bathroom + toilet) individual	Inflow from the premises of the residential area	Not less than 50 m³/hour

There are, of course, norms in SNiP for more specific visits: dryers, ironers, dedicated laundries and others. But in the context of this article, they are not of particular interest to us - we will talk about average apartments or houses. You can completely limit yourself to the values ​​\u200b\u200bgiven above.

But why do we need to know the indicators of natural supply ventilation in the premises of a residential area? But the fact is that an apartment or a house should be considered as a single balanced "organism". To be effective, and the bathroom, toilet and kitchen rooms are constantly ventilated with air coming from the living area, the exhaust devices installed in them must be able to cope with this task. Simply put, the volume of air drawn out cannot be less than the incoming one. There is such a thing as the air balance equation, and when choosing ventilation units, it is necessary to strive for its maximum observance.

∑Qadj. = ∑Qvy.

∑Qadj.- the required total volume of air supplied with supply ventilation.

∑Qout.- the required performance of exhaust ventilation.

Failure to comply with this equality in one direction or another can cause undesirable consequences - stagnation of air, the penetration of odors from the kitchen, and even worse - from the restroom into living rooms, the accumulation of dampness in the corners or on window slopes, unpleasant drafts and other negative phenomena.

Constantly misted windows are a sign of poor ventilation.

The ever-wet surface of the glass on the windows is half the trouble, only an external sign of a rather serious problem. , and what needs to be done in this case - read in a special publication of our portal.

To determine the right side of our equation, we will have to carry out calculations for the required air flow.

The most correct approach would be to calculate according to three parameters - according to sanitary standards for each resident, according to the frequency of air exchange by the volume of the whole house or apartment, and according to the standards for each meter of living space. Then it remains to compare the results and choose the maximum indicator - it will become the required value of air flow for high-quality ventilation.

Well, then, based on the value obtained, it will be possible to proceed to the distribution of volumes of forced exhaust ventilation in order to achieve the desired equality.

For example, the calculation for a house with a total area of ​​120 square meters.

Do you have problems with the area calculation?

Usually the area is easiest to take from the existing house plan. If for some reason it is not there, but you will have to calculate it yourself. In a special publication of the portal, various examples are considered - from the simplest rectangular rooms to rooms of an unusual complex configuration, and convenient online calculators are placed for quick and accurate calculation.

For the convenience of calculations, you can make a small table:

House premises	Air intake from outside			Outlet to the street
Other data and calculation progress	According to sanitary standards for living people	According to the frequency of air exchange from the total volume of premises	According to the norms per 1 m² of usable area	Set minimum	Required in the real world
Number of residents	5 people	-	-	-	-
Living room	-	21 m²	21 m²	-	-
Bedroom 1	-	16 m²	16 m²	-	-
Bedroom 2	-	14 m²	14 m²	-	-
Children's	-	17 m²	17 m²	-	-
Canteen	-	15 m²	15 m²	-	-
Kitchen (gas stove 4 burners)	-	12 m²	-	90 m³ / hour	150 m³ / hour
Hallway	-	5 m²	-	-	-
Hall	-	9 m²		-	-
Corridor	-	3 m²	-	-	-
Bathroom	-	6 m²	-	25 m³/h	50 m³ / hour
bathroom	-	2 m²	-	25 m³/h	50 m³ / hour
Total area	-	120 m²	83 m²	-	-
Ceiling height	-	3.1 m	-	-	-
Volume in total	-	120 × 3.1 = 372 m³	-	-	-
established norm	30 m³/hour	0.35 times/hour	3 m³/1 m²	-	-
Payment	5 x 30 = 150	372 x 0.35 = 130.2	83 x 3 = 249	90 + 25 + 25 = 140	150 + 50 + 50 = 250
Need for standards	150 m³/hour	130.2 m³/h		140 m³/hour

So, out of the three calculated values, we accept the maximum - 249 m³ / h, since it fully meets all the conditions. We round it up to 250 m³ / h, and bring to this value the total exhaust ventilation performance in the kitchen, in the bathroom and in the bathroom.

The kitchen should be given more - it has a larger area and ventilation standards in this room are tougher. In our case, it can take 150 m³ / hour. This can be a total of ventilation + kitchen, but only if the hood works with air being removed to the outside, and not on the principle of recirculation.

The remaining 100 m³ / h can be evenly distributed between the bathroom and the toilet (if it is planned to install axial fans individual for each room). Or, in the case when these rooms are combined with one exhaust system, you can install a common duct or radial fan of appropriate capacity. It is obvious that such volumes of exhaust ventilation are quite sufficient in comparison with the minimum standards, even with a good margin.

So, all the conditions are fully met, and the required performance of the ventilation unit has also already been determined.

Other criteria for choosing a bathroom and toilet fan

It is very important to know what else you need to pay attention to when choosing an exhaust fan for bathroom rooms, in addition to its performance. These criteria include the following technical and operational parameters:

• The level of noise generated during operation. The operation of any ventilation device is accompanied by mechanical and aerodynamic noise. These sound vibrations propagate through the air, through air ducts and wall surfaces inside which they are laid.

Mechanical noise arises from the vibration of the impeller with blades, the electric motor and the casing in which the entire structure is installed.

Aerodynamic noise appears as a result of vortex formation inside the casing at the impeller, at the inlet and outlet of air, when it moves through the air ducts, and also during the occurrence of pulsations.

Increased vibration and noise of the ventilation unit can adversely affect the well-being of the residents of an apartment or house.

Therefore, for fans installed in residential premises, there are certain restrictions on the generated noise pressure, and this parameter itself must be indicated in the product passport (often even within a certain range of distance from the device).

If a fan is purchased with the ability to adjust the engine speed and, accordingly, performance, then preference should be given to a device that will cope with the necessary task of extracting the required air volume not at its maximum, but by about 0.5 ÷ 0.7 of its inherent capabilities. So the equipment will last longer, and the noise level will decrease significantly - high speeds are most often the main cause of noise.

It should be noted that manufacturers install special silencers of one design or another on many fans - be sure to take this into account when choosing.

Another important point in reducing the noise level is the installation of a fan with straight sections provided to stabilize the air flow, reducing turbulent phenomena. For a duct or radial fan, it is desirable to leave such sections on both sides (for an axial, of course, this is impossible to fully observe). The length of each such section must be at least 1.5 times the outer diameter of the impeller (turbine).

• Fan functionality. Exhaust ventilation systems can be automatic or standard.

Axial conventional fans can be operated manually, or they are built into the general lighting system of the room, that is, when the light is turned on, the exhaust fan also turns on.

The latter option is more convenient and economical, but some caution is required here so that when the device is turned off, the entire ventilation system of the house as a whole does not suffer. The outflow of air from the residential area in the minimum required volume must be ensured at all times.

The automatic design of the device assumes the presence of an electronic unit with a timer, on which the turn-on time, operating modes and the fan off time are set.

• Device safety. Since the fan is powered by electricity, devices protected from moisture are selected for bathrooms, on the packaging of which there should be a corresponding label.

When choosing a fan, it is worth checking the availability of a quality certificate for the product. It is necessary to purchase such devices necessarily in specialized stores, preferably models of well-known manufacturers, the brand of which in itself gives a certain guarantee for the products. Do not hesitate to ask for the necessary sales marks in the product passport to ensure further warranty and service maintenance.

TOP 9 best bathroom fans

	Photo	Name	Rating	Price
The best overhead fans
#1		Vents VNV-1 80 KV	⭐ 99 / 100
#2		Cata E-120 GTH	⭐ 98 / 100
#3		Electrolux EAFR	⭐ 97 / 100
#4		Soler & Palau Silent-100 CZ Design	⭐ 96 / 100
Best duct fans
#1		Blauberg Turbo 315	⭐ 99 / 100
#2		Vents Quietline 100	⭐ 98 / 100
#3		Era Profit 5	⭐ 97 / 100
The best backlit fans
#1		Cata E-100 GLT	⭐ 99 / 100
#2		Blauberg Lux 125	⭐ 98 / 100

Self-installation of ventilation

Installing a fan in the bathroom or toilet of an apartment is quite simple, since the ventilation system in multi-storey buildings is already installed, and the device will only increase the extraction of exhaust air along with unpleasant odors and humidity.

It is more difficult to install a ventilation system in a private house. But doing it yourself is also quite possible. Of course, it is best to install all the elements of the system at the construction stage, but it is often necessary to carry out these installation work in an already finished building.

Elements of the ventilation system

If the type of ventilation system is determined, then it is necessary to prepare all the elements necessary for it according to previously taken dimensions.

• The fan is the main component of the system and can be built into the wall or ceiling, as well as into the air duct. The device is usually built into the air duct in the case of the planned installation of a complex ventilation system. For example, if the bathroom and toilet are separated (or even separated) from each other, then in each of the rooms it will be possible to arrange its own ventilation hole, from which ducts or pipes are removed, which are then connected to a single duct equipped with a duct or radial roof fan.
• Air ducts can be made of plastic or metal, have a round or rectangular cross section. Each of them has its own advantages, for example, a rectangular version is more convenient to mount to a ceiling or wall, it can ideally be located above a false or stretch ceiling. The round section provides more efficient air removal, as it does not have internal corners that hinder its smooth movement or cause turbulence.

Rectangular air ducts are easier to attach to walls and flow, but round ones are less “noisy”

• Swivel elbows are used when using rigid boxes. They are installed in complex structures, when changing the direction of the air ducts, when exiting through a wall or ceiling, and in other cases, in accordance with the installation plan.
• Couplings are used to interface individual sections of the duct.
• A non-return damper is installed in order to avoid backflow of air when the fan is off, or, for example, when there is strong wind outside.
• Elements for fixing air ducts. To do this, you can use home-made or ready-made brackets (clamps), which are usually installed every 500 ÷ 700 mm, depending on the location.
• Ventilation grilles installed on the inlet and outlet of the system will be required in cases where a duct fan is selected, installed between two parts of the duct. One ventilation grill will be needed to mount it on the outlet of the system when installing an overhead axial fan.

Installation of the ventilation system

The installation of the ventilation system is carried out in different ways, depending on the chosen design, and on whether it is being updated or reinstalled. Therefore, before proceeding with the installation, a detailed diagram should be drawn up, according to which it will be easier to work.

• If it is decided to upgrade an already installed ventilation system, it is best, if possible, to replace the air duct with a new one. In the event that this cannot be done, it will be necessary to carefully clean the old duct from debris and deposits on the stacks.
• Before laying the ventilation duct, you must first determine the installation location of the fan. The best place to install the device will be the wall opposite the doorway. In this case, the ventilation system will work more efficiently due to the natural intake of air in the form of a draft.
• The next step is to cut a new one in the wall or, if necessary, expand the existing ventilation window to the desired size.
• The ventilation duct is brought out into the arranged hole, then it is gradually mounted, laid in accordance with the scheme and fixed in the attic of the building, or it is carried out through the attic floor and roof.
• If the channel is brought outside through the outer wall, then it is recommended to install a pipe into the ventilation hole from the side of the street, which is raised vertically by at least 500 ÷ 1000 mm. If only a protective grill is installed on the through hole, then the room will not have time to heat up when the heating system is operating - all the heat will quickly leave through the ventilation through the draft.

• The ventilation pipe leading through the roof of the building requires a reliable waterproofing device. For this purpose, you can use special waterproofing cuffs that are put on the pipe and fixed on the roof.

• Another option for installing the system is to mount the fan in the ceiling and connect it to a flexible ventilation duct (corrugated pipe) that connects to an outlet covered by a protective grill installed under the roof soffit. This installation method is possible both in combination with a suspended ceiling and without it, since the box may well pass through the attic.

• In the case of installing a complex ventilation system, when the bathroom rooms are separated, and the ventilation needs to be connected to one common duct, you can proceed as shown in this diagram. Inserts with branch pipes are installed in the common ventilation duct, which will go into the rooms through the false ceiling, and the air duct itself can be brought outside through the wall. In this case, two fans can be installed, one for each room or one, ducted or installed from the side of the street and closed with a special casing.

• After holding and fixing the air ducts, you need to carefully install the axial overhead fan itself, which is inserted into the box and fixed on the wall in a convenient and, of course, reliable way in each specific case. The presence of vibration loads should be taken into account, so that the fasteners do not loosen over time.
• Before finally fixing the overhead axial fan in the window, you need to connect the device to the power supply. It is recommended to enclose the wire connecting the fan with the switch in a special plastic cable channel fixed on the wall, which can be placed along the ceiling or hidden above the suspended structure.

The fan is connected to the power supply through the connecting terminals, which must be hidden under a special cover or casing to prevent active exposure to high humidity.

Depending on the design, the terminal block is located in different ways, but the connection diagram is always attached to the fan, which will help you navigate this issue.

If it is decided to connect the fan to the light switch, then this switching should be carried out approximately as shown in this diagram:

Connection in this way is carried out in a junction box specially installed for this, where, using the terminal, the “zero” and “phase” wires of the fan and lighting are connected, respectively. The “phase” is interrupted on the switch, and from it there is already a connection to both devices.

By the way, if you think about it carefully, then such a scheme is very irrational. We simulate the situation - a person took a bath or shower, dried himself, got dressed, left the bathroom and turned off the light behind him. During this time, excess moisture is unlikely to be completely drawn out by the fan, and the room remains "steam column". The situation is similar with the use of the restroom. It would be wiser to provide a time delay for such a connection, at least for 5 ÷ 10 minutes, by installing a simple time relay in the fan circuit.

By the way, if you wish, you can find on sale electronic timer devices for controlling light and ventilation, designed specifically for these purposes.

• When installing a duct fan, it is necessary to carefully consider connecting it to the power supply, especially if the ventilation duct is planned to run through the attic. An electric cable will need to be laid through the ceiling, and along its entire length, all its possible connections, as well as the passage through the ceiling, must be securely insulated.

• If the system is mounted under the ceiling of the premises, then the air duct together with the fan can be hidden above the false ceiling. In this case, the ventilation hole can be arranged in the ceiling, where the air duct is led out and fixed, and then cover this window with a decorative and functional grille.

Video: how to install an exhaust fan in a bathroom or toilet yourself

Checking the Installed System

After completing the installation of the ventilation system, it is necessary to check it. In order to carry out such control, no tools are required - just bring a piece of paper or a lit candle to the grate of the switched on fan. If the paper sheet is attracted to the grate, and the flame of the candle leans towards it, then we can say that the fan is working quite efficiently.

If it is necessary to increase traction, then a small artificial draft can be stimulated. To do this, a narrow slit-like window is cut out at the bottom of the bathroom door or a series of holes are drilled. These cutouts are then closed on both sides with a specially designed ventilation grille. It, depending on the design and type of holes made, is inserted into the through opening, can be glued to the door or screwed with self-tapping screws.