When can the host be seated? When can I transplant a host - in the fall? Dates of the autumn host transplant, caring for them, preparing for winter

Hosta or funkia (Hosta \u003d Fúnkia) is a perennial herb with very beautiful foliage. There are about 50 species and many hybrid variations. This perennial boasts a wide variety of leaf sizes and colors, making it look great in flower gardens. At the same time, the plant is unpretentious, frost-resistant. Planting it is easy, and leaving it requires minimal time. This makes the hosta a popular gardener.

All hosts are rhizome plants with relatively large leaves (6-40 cm) on petioles, which form a basal rosette - a compact bush. The height of which can vary from 20 to 100 cm. The peduncle is long (sometimes up to 120 cm) without leaves, on which, in the form of a loose one-sided brush, there are flowers of mauve, sometimes white, similar to small bells. They bloom at different times in the summer.

The main advantage of this plant is its leaves. They are very diverse:

• shape: elongated lanceolate, rounded, heart-like;
• color: blue, gray, yellow, cream, variegated and various shades of green;
• texture: smooth or wrinkled, glossy or matte, with a slight waxy coating.

Gardeners love the host for its unpretentiousness, ability to decorate even the most shady places, durability - it can grow for more than 20 years, becoming more magnificent every year. She gets along well with others cultivated plants, and its dense bushes do not allow weeds to grow.

Landing

Seat selection

Hosta is chosen by many gardeners; it is known as a shade-tolerant plant. In the wild, it often grows in open sunny areas, in river floodplains. Breeders have bred many varieties that have a love for direct sunlight. Therefore, it is impossible to say unequivocally on which part of the host will feel best. The location should be chosen based on individual characteristics varieties.

But even shade-tolerant hosta varieties will feel bad, hurt and, accordingly, look bad in the deep shade of trees and bushes. The best planting spot that most varieties of this plant will like is an area mostly shaded in the afternoon. The soil should be constantly moderately moist. In the hot season, the hosta's large leaf plates evaporate a lot of moisture, therefore, with a lack of moisture in the soil, they will become thinner and acquire an ugly brown color.

When choosing a planting site, you should take into account the color of the leaves:

• Dark green and bluish hosts will be glad to see areas under pears, apple trees and other trees with a light openwork crown. Such a neighborhood will not create a gloomy shadow, but at the same time it will protect the leaves of the plant from sunburn.

• Golden, white, yellow shadespresent in the color of the leaves indicate that the plant will feel good in the sun. However, it is not scorching either. It is better to choose a place for them where the sun will prevail in the morning hours, in the shade of low bushes or large flowers, so that in the middle of the day they shade the host from the scorching sun. The main thing is to find a middle ground. On the open sun variegated hosta will fade, and in constant shade, most likely will become monotonous green.
• Hosta is an excellent neighbor for various, such as fragrant violet, astilba, primrose and many others. Contrasting plants look spectacular: for example, a yellowish-golden hosta and flowers with blue or purple petals.

Bedding

Landing and further care for a host will not be difficult even for a beginner in the world of gardeners. Planting a plant in the garden should in early spring, at the moment of active growth of the root system, but before the leaves began to grow. In some cases, you can plant the host in the fall. It is better to do this in September so that the plant has time to root well before frost. It is in the fall that it is recommended to divide and replant the hosts of Siebold and Tokudama - their root system arranged in such a way that autumn is the best time for this.

The host is undemanding to the composition of the soil. But with the poor not fertile soils it is advisable to enrich them with complex mineral fertilizers even before planting. The plant responds well to ash. Peat is added to sandy soils. This will keep the soil moisture necessary for the host and prevent nutrients from leaching out.

Planting material can be conditionally divided into two types: with open and closed root systems. As the name implies, in the second case the plant goes along with a clod of earth, in the first the root system is bare.

Plants with an open root are planted, carefully straightening the roots. With closed - placed in the hole along with a lump of earth. In both cases, the hole should be somewhat deeper and wider than the root system of the seedling. Fertilizer is applied to its bottom. The growth bud must remain strictly above the soil level. After planting, the soil is tamped and watered.

Reproduction hosts

Hosta can be propagated by dividing the bush, cutting or sowing seeds.

1. Dividing a bush is the easiest and reliable way propagate the plant. This procedure can be carried out at any time, but it is best done in the spring, before active growth has begun, or at the very beginning of autumn, so that the delenki have time to take root well.

It should be taken into account that young hosts have a hard time tolerating such a procedure, so it is not recommended to divide specimens under 4 years old.

To do this, carefully dig up a bush, cut it into pieces with a sharp knife so that each of them has at least one bud of growth. Then the delenki are planted in a permanent place.

1. Cutting is best done in summer. To do this, use shoots with small leaves or rosette shoots with a piece of rhizome remaining after dividing the bush.

Cut off part of the leaf (about 1/3) of such a cutting with a "heel", this will help reduce moisture evaporation. Then we plant it in a slightly shaded place and cover with a glass jar.

1. Sowing seeds will allow you to get a large number of plants at once. However, it should be borne in mind: seedlings most often do not retain varietal characteristics. mother plant... It is advisable to treat the seeds with growth stimulants before sowing. Sometimes they even carry out stratification.

In early April, hosta seeds are sown for seedlings, using light disinfected soil for this. The crops are only lightly sprinkled with soil mixture and placed in a slightly shaded place for germination. You can cover crops with transparent film. Seedlings should appear in about 20 days. Then, after the first true leaves appear, the sprouts dive. And with the onset of warm days, the seedlings begin to harden.

Sometimes in May, hosta is sown right next to open groundmulching planting.

When growing hosta from seeds, pay attention that the plant will be able to achieve the necessary decorative effect only after 4 years.

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Pests and diseases

Hosts are relatively resistant to disease. But with excessive dampness, gray rot may appear, any fungicide and reduced watering will help to cope with it.

The main harm to hosts is caused by slugs. In the fight against them, various traps or special chemicals based on metaldehyde, such as "Thunderstorm" ("Meta").

Sometimes hosts are attacked by nematodes. In this case, the diseased plant must be urgently removed and burned. Specimens infected with viruses, which manifest themselves in unnatural leaf spot, are also subject to destruction.

Garden slugs

Caring for a shade-loving beauty

General care requirements

The host is undemanding to care for, but in order for her to show her beauty as fully as possible, you should create comfortable conditions for her.

• Regular moderate watering. Hosts are considered to be moisture-loving, but they cannot tolerate dampness. It is necessary to water at the root, not falling on the foliage, especially for leaves with a waxy coating, as their decorative effect may suffer.
• The root system of the hosta is superficial, it can be damaged when loosening, therefore it is advisable to apply mulching (with pine sawdust, chopped bark, grass, peat), which retains moisture and looseness of the root circle.
• Since young hosts are planted in fertile soil, the first years they do not need feeding, especially with periodic mulching. In the future, they are fed 2-3 times over the summer using liquid or granular complex fertilizers. Since August, feeding is stopped, since the plants need to prepare for winter.
• Weeds will need to be burrowed around young plants, but as they grow, they themselves will get rid of the "uninvited neighbors".
• First, young flower stalks need to be cut so that your bush does not "fall apart".
• After 4 years, the host will need to separate and plant. This will rejuvenate the mother plant and give new planting material.
• Hosts are quite winter-hardy plants and do not need shelter. It is not necessary to cut the leaves for the winter, since by the spring they will be overheated and serve as an additional fertilizer.

Autumn works

In the fall, the hosts are transplanted, pruned and sheltered for the winter. The plant is actively growing, so its colonies must be planted. Do it better in autumn... If everything is done correctly, the bushes will grow in early spring.

The mother plant is dug out of the ground, the roots are cleared of soil. On a large root, you need to find roots with sprouts or dormant buds. They are the ones that need to be separated from the mother plant. Treat the cut points with crushed coal to prevent decay. Many hosta varieties reproduce more efficiently with rosettes.

The main thing in an autumn transplant is to guess the moment. It is necessary that the seedling has time to take root well in place before the first frost. Therefore, it is better to do this in early autumn, and not delay it.

Pruning is essential to maintain plant health. Various pests, the same slugs that can harm the plant, will hide from the cold under the wilted and laid leaves on the ground. Therefore, the leaves must be trimmed after they have turned brown, but before they have time to slip. When this happens, the pests already have time to hide in upper layers soil. The optimal time is after the first frost. Pruning is carried out neatly, close to the ground, being careful not to damage the dormant buds.

After removing the foliage, it is necessary to loosen the ground around the bushes - this will destroy the pests hiding in the upper layers of the soil. To prevent their reappearance, the surface is treated with "Metaldehyde".

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Preparing for winter

You should think about wintering even during the flowering of the plant. To save the plants from frost until next spring, it is best to cover them on top with spruce branches. In the spring, remove and treat the soil around the bushes from pests.

In no case should you feed the plant in the fall - this is fraught with the fact that it will freeze out. The last dressing of the season should be carried out before mid-August. In the second half of October, you can mulch the soil under the bushes with organic compounds - this will no longer work as a fertilizer, and at the same time will help keep the plants from freezing. Fit sawdust, peat, dried grass, etc. To prevent pests from growing in the layer of mulch, it is advisable to sterilize and process the material with tobacco dust (garden slugs especially do not like it) or with Fitosporin-M, effective against bacterial and fungal diseases.

It is humble in its beauty and unpretentious plant has long won the hearts of many gardeners. Growing a host is easy, a pleasure. At the same time, it goes well with many other plants, and therefore it rightfully takes its place in a variety of flower beds and gardens.

The green beauty rightfully takes its place of honor. This perennial wins the hearts of gardeners with its unpretentiousness and excellent compatibility with other plants.

Or function (Hosta) - a small genus of perennial herbaceous plants of the Lileiny family. Hosts are mainly low rosette plants that grow in the form of dense bushes formed by basal leaves. The host root system consists of thickened rhizomes with numerous filamentous roots. In nature, hosts grow in shady forests on moist fertile soils.

Flowers host funnel-shaped, a little like lily flowers, with a color from white to purple, collected in loose inflorescences on towering peduncles. The flowers are not devoid of beauty, but the main decorative advantage of the host is the leaves, collected in dense basal rosettes, the diameter of which can range from 20 centimeters to one meter. After flowering, the flower stalks are usually cut off.

Have different types and varieties host leaves differ in size - from miniature, as long as a match, to half a meter; shape - from narrow lanceolate to wide cordate; color - from light and dark green to gray-blue. The leaf blades of some host species and varieties have yellow and white stripes or stripes of various shapes and widths, the edges of the leaves may be wavy, and the tip may be elongated and curled.

Hosta is distinguished by an enviable stable decorativeness from the moment the leaves unfold in May to their wilting in October.

Host types

Hosta white-bordered

Hosta white-bordered (Hosta albomarginata) forms a dense rosette of leaves up to 20 cm high and up to 60-70 cm in diameter. Leaves are broadly lanceolate, up to 6-8 cm wide, up to 15 cm long, green with a white border. At the end of August, it throws out a peduncle up to 30 cm tall with purple-lilac flowers up to 6 cm long. Hosta white-bordered widespread among flower growers, very hardy, unpretentious. Hosta grows best in light partial shade when it is fully sunlit in the morning or evening.

Have siebold hosts (Hosta sieboldiana) is distinguished by very large bluish-green leaves with a matte bloom - up to 35 cm in length and up to 25 cm in width. The shape of the leaves is closer to cordate. But the flower stalks of the hosta Siebold are quite low, hidden among large leaves... The flowers are pale lilac, almost white. Hosta Siebold blooms at the end of June. It is advisable to plant Siebold's host in semi-shady places, since in the sun it loses its bluish color and becomes dark green.

The host is bloated

Have bloated hosts (Hosta ventricosa) leaves up to 20 cm wide and up to 25 cm long, beautiful heart-shaped. The swollen host forms a powerful bush up to 80 cm high and the same width. The leaf plates are dark green, shiny below, with a pronounced longitudinal venation. The stalks of the hosta are swollen with blue purple flowers reach a meter height. Blooms in July - August for about three weeks. It is unpretentious in care, it reaches the greatest decorative effect in the shade on moist nutritious loams.

Hosta lanceolate

Leaves lanceolate hosts (Hosta lancifolia) green, up to 17 cm long and only up to 8 cm wide. Bushes grow very quickly, rosettes reach a height of 40 cm, a diameter of up to 60 cm.

Leaves of hosta lanceolate are located in different planes. Petioles are long, grooved. Peduncles with purple flowers grow up to 60 cm. Hosta lanceolate blooms from the end of August for two weeks.

Hosta wavy

Hosta wavy (Hosta undulata) forms relatively loose rosettes of leaves up to 20 cm high and about 30 cm in diameter. The leaves are distinguished by an uneven wavy surface with a slightly curved tip. Leaf petioles are light, grooved, slightly winged. Leaves are green, up to 16 cm long and 10 cm wide, with an uneven longitudinal white center. Flowers hosta wavy, light purple, funnel-bell-shaped, up to 5 cm long. Peduncles are high, up to 80 cm. Hosta blooms wavy in August.

Khosta plantain

Have plantain hosts (Hosta plantaginea) is also quite large, up to 30 cm in length and up to 15 cm in width, leaves with a heart-shaped base and a sharp tip. The leaf plate is bright green, shiny. The flowers are large, up to 10 cm long, white, on a high peduncle up to 60 cm. Hosta plantain blooms in late August for two weeks.

Hosta care

It is very easy to take care of the host. It is sometimes called a plant for the lazy, because when the right choice landing site, it can grow in one place for many years with little or no maintenance.

Host landing site and light level

Almost all hosts are distinguished by rare shade-tolerance and even shade-loving, with the exception of variegated host varieties. Hosta can easily bloom in deep shade on the north side of the house or under the shade of trees.

When choosing a place for planting a host, first of all, pay attention to the soil and lighting. The most good soils for the host are moisture-consuming loams with a high humus content. Damp wetlands are unsuitable for host. On sandy soils, the leaves of all hosts become brighter, although the bush does not grow in width. On sandy soils, the number of host irrigations increases, and top dressing with organic fertilizers will be very useful. In one place, hosts can grow for more than ten years.

Variegated host forms still prefer lighter areas, illuminated at least in the morning or by the rays of the setting sun. With the right lighting, hosts grow rapidly, have dense, neat rosettes, and the color of the leaves is most attractive.

Further hosta care consists in weeding, feeding, watering in hot weather or in the absence of rain.

Many host species, especially varietal ones, grow very slowly in the early years and therefore are not very decorative. After 4-5 years of vegetation, the bushes become the most attractive.

In addition, you need to be careful when cleaning the flower garden in April. Usually, host seedlings appear later, therefore, you need to be very careful when loosening the soil.

Top dressing host

Hosts are very responsive to increased levels of organic fertilizers in the soil. If in the fall peat, humus or compost was introduced under the host, then in early spring it is embedded shallowly into the soil. Humus or compost in the form of mulch can be applied under the host in early summer, then, in addition to fertilizing, it will help to retain moisture in the soil, which is very useful for hosts. It is good to feed the hosts with mullein infusion, if there is no such fertilizer, then at the beginning of summer the host is fed nitrogen fertilizers for the rapid growth of leaves, and in August - with phosphorus and potassium fertilizers, in order to make a supply of nutrients in the rhizomes, and also to increase the winter hardiness of the rhizomes.

Transplant and reproduction host

Hosts tolerate transplanting and division of the bush well, reproduce easily, and are non-aggressive. If there is a possibility of frequent watering, then you can transplant hosts at any time from spring to mid-September. The most painless transplant occurs in May and August.

The easiest way propagate hosts by dividing overgrown bushes... It is best to divide the bush in spring, in April - May, when the leaves hatch, but have not yet fully opened, or in autumn, in August - September, after flowering. Mature host bushes easily disintegrate. After planting, the delenki are watered abundantly for the first time.

Hosts can be propagated by cuttings, especially varietal bushes. Leaves can be cut from May to July inclusive. On the cuttings take easily separating young shoots with a heel. It is better to take rosettes with smaller leaves on short stalks as cuttings. To reduce the evaporation of moisture, the leaves on this cutting are cut by one third or half. Planted hosta cuttings must be constantly watered and sprayed.

Immediately after planting, the cuttings wilt strongly and lie on the ground, but after 2 - 3 days they return to their normal position. So that the hosta cuttings do not wither much, they can be covered with a glass jar for several days or plastic bottle... This will help maintain the necessary humidity.

Seed reproduction host very slow. Only in the fourth - fifth year, the seedlings achieve a decorative effect.

Diseases and pests

With proper agricultural technology, hosts are highly resistant to diseases. Of the pests, hosts are annoyed by slugs and other leaf-eating insects, for example, caterpillars, various beetles. They greatly reduce the decorative effect of the leaves. Mulching the root rosette of the host with sawdust and ash will help from slugs. You can use slug traps. Caterpillars, if there are few of them, can be assembled by hand. But if you notice that the host is attacked by beetles like a spanish fly, then you need to urgently treat the host with an insecticide, otherwise nothing will be left of the host after them.

Preparing the host for winter

The host is not picky about heat and hardy. Late autumn dead leaves of the host are removed with pruning shears. After pruning, it would be good to sprinkle the bushes with humus or peat, which will be quite useful in the northern regions. This will simultaneously serve as a fertilizer and improve the wintering conditions of the rhizome.

Application host

Hosts are very appropriate in curbs, rocky gardens, near bodies of water, in single and group plantings on lawns,

Image source https://www.flickr.com: Liliana Di Stabile, Becky, makilab, Vedat Uzman, pawightm (Patricia), kool2guy, Robin Atherton, stoplamek, Karen, Herbert Frei, Powell Gardens, Martin Urban, Junfeng Chan, andrea signorini, Linda Daley, Eleven Ish, WestKastle (2), kerstin (2), Candide Villeneuve Paysa, moccasinlanding, HEN-Magonza, TANAKA Juuyoh (田中 十 洋), virginiarose, cbiiidesigns (3), Nobuhiro Suhara, Foto ~ Sorts, Trev, InAweofGod "sCreation, Amy Woodward, Tribe, Stephen Cross, Annie

Hosta is one of perennial plants, quite often used in the design of suburban areas. Landscape designers love the plant for its shade tolerance and amazingly decorative foliage.

Hosta flowers do not differ in particular sophistication and outwardly are somewhat similar to a bell, but the color of the foliage is really beautiful. Leaving and planting hosts will not become problematic even for novice florists, since the flower is quite unpretentious.

Where, when and how to drop off the host

Hosts feel good in shaded areas, but, nevertheless, you need to choose a place in accordance with the needs of the variety. Plants with rich green and blue foliage are best placed under fruit trees. The dense crown will protect the host from the glare of the sun.

Varieties with golden or yellow foliage can be placed near small shrubs... So the plant will receive the portion it needs. morning raysbut will be protected from the hot midday sun. If such a place cannot be found on the site, then the path grows better in the shade. The flower does not like a long stay in the open sun.

The most better time – spring... At this time, the plant has an active growth of the root system, but the rosettes of the leaves remain closed. But it is also possible to plant hosts in the fall, at the very beginning of September. It is important here not to delay the timing, since the plant still has to prepare for wintering and take root.

Hostu is planted traditionally through seedlings. You can buy two types of planting material - young hosts with a closed root system, and plants with open roots.

Closed-root hosts are much easier to plant. In this case, it is enough just to dig a hole and place a plant in it without destroying the earthen coma. You can put a small amount of peat on the bottom.

With an open root system, the planting looks somewhat different, a little fertilizer is placed on the bottom of the dug hole. Then a low hill is poured out of the ground and a plant is placed on its top.

The roots should be evenly distributed over the slopes. After that, the hole can be covered with soil and tamped. Spill well. When planting, you need to make sure that the top of the bud remains above the soil surface.

Preparing the site

Hosta is an undemanding flower and will grow in almost any soil. An exception will be damp, wetlands and clayey lands. The perfect place residence of the hosta will become a site with light soils in composition, allowing water and air to pass to the root system.

Site preparation is as follows:

• The earth must be dug up and all the roots of weeds must be carefully selected;
• sandy soils need to be diluted with peat;
• the introduction of fine river sand will help to lighten too heavy lands;
• if the host is planned to be planted on infertile soils, then when digging it is necessary to add a complex of mineral fertilizers or ash.

How to take care of your host

Caring for the host is not too difficult and will not take away a lot of time from amateur flower growers.

The care includes:

• Watering.
• Top dressing.
• Pruning.
• Preparing the plant for winter.

1. Watering. The plant prefers abundant watering with warm, settled water, for which it is best to choose early morning. If the weather is hot, the host needs to water it often. The tips of the leaves of the plant will inform about the need for more active watering: if they are darkened, then the host does not have enough moisture.

2. Top dressing. Cultivation of hosts is impossible without top dressing. But if the flower grows on fertile soils, then you should not feed the host too often.

As a fertilizer, the following composition is suitable: mullein infusion enriched with superphosphate, ammonium nitrate and potassium sulfate. You need to fertilize three times - at the beginning of spring growth, during the budding period and at the end of flowering.

3. Cropping. Only the stems that had flowers need to be removed from the plant.

4. Preparing hosts for wintering... Before the air temperature drops below zero, you need to mulch the planting hosts. Here it is recommended to use exclusively natural materials - sawdust, hay, spruce branches, etc.

How to transplant to host

A hosta transplant is too often not recommended, since in this case the plant restores its decorative effect for a long time. As a rule, transplanting is required only if the bush is too overgrown or in the case when it is necessary to reproduce the variety growing on the site.

It is best to move the plant to a new place of residence in early spring. To do this, you need to dig out the mother bush. The parcels should not be too large. It is enough if each has one or two sockets of leaves.

The planting material is planted in pre-prepared holes, 20… .25 centimeters deep. They need to be thoroughly soaked in advance. A gap of 30… .35 centimeters should be left between the plants. After planting, the seedling must be watered abundantly. This will allow hosts to root quickly.

Pests and diseases hosts

The plant does not get sick so often. In addition, pests do not "love" him too much, but you need to be ready in any case.

Most frequent problems the hosts are:

1. Fusarium. A fungal disease that damages the leaves. Symptoms - the appearance of spots of red-brown color, which very quickly capture the surface of healthy leaves.

If signs of fusarium are found, it is necessary to immediately cut out all the leaves damaged by the disease and treat the plant with colloidal sulfur, or with Vectra.

2. Gray rot... The disease starts from the tips of the leaves. They rot. Then the disease spreads to the entire surface of the leaf plate. All affected leaves must be destroyed immediately. In this case, the host should be treated with Topaz or Bordeaux liquid.

3. Decay of the root collar. The disease is the result of excessive watering. Diseased plants need to be dug up, the affected areas must be cut out. After that, the host needs to be placed in a solution of potassium permanganate and transferred to a new place.

Among the pests, slugs and nematodes can be distinguished. Slugs feed on plant leaves, gnawing small holes in them. Nematodes also harm the decorativeness of the flower, gnawing passages in the leaves. To save the plant, it is best to transplant the host.

When can I transplant the host - in the fall? The timing of the autumn transplant host, caring for them, preparing for winter 10/11/2016 21:09 Author: Julia Krivenko The perennial hosta belongs to the lily family. The plant gained its popularity thanks to its large and dense leaves. In some species, they are especially decorative. IN landscape design hosta wins among other representatives of the flora. It goes well with trees and shrubs, annuals and perennials. The hosta belongs to unpretentious varieties, but some issues should be taken into account when planting and transplanting it. What you need to know when planting hostsAlthough the flower is undemanding to care for, but when planting it, you need to remember some things: the hosta tolerates winters well, is suitable for growing in middle lane; copes with heat easily, but requires shaded areas; most species do not tolerate direct sunlight; the planting period of some varieties is too short, it is not worth delaying the work. Dates of autumn transplantation by hosts Plants are transplanted quite rarely, this is due to difficult adaptation in a new place. Hosta loses its decorative effect, it takes a long time to build up leaf mass. The plant is transplanted only if absolutely necessary: \u200b\u200bthe perennial is heavily thickened, it is required to save the plant from disease, there is a need for reproduction of this species. The transplant is planned in advance. Planting hosts in spring is optimal, but this is not suitable for all varieties. For example, the host of Siebold and Tokudama is transplanted only in the fall. This is due to the peculiarity of the root system of the plant. When to transplant the host in the fall? If there is such a need, then you need to remember the timing of planting. You need to start work at the very beginning of autumn. The timing is different in each region. In the middle lane, the hosta transplant is considered optimal from the beginning of August to the end of September. This is due to the early cold weather. It takes about 1 month for a plant to adapt. This should be borne in mind when choosing the time for transplanting hosts in the fall. How to start transplanting hosts in the fall? Work begins with the preparation of the site. Although the hosta will grow in any soil, planting in wet and damp soil should be avoided. Especially bad for the condition of the flower clay soil. The best solution for growing hosts will be a light, nutritious substrate. Soil preparation includes a number of measures aimed at improving its structure. Before planting a plant, you need to dig up the ground, select the rhizomes of all weeds. 2. If the soil on the site is sandy, then peat is added for digging. 3. Improving heavy soil will help river sand, which is added for digging. 4. Too poor soils are enriched with mineral fertilizers or ash. The site for planting is chosen in the shade of trees or other perennials. A few hours before the planned transplant, the flower bed is well watered. Experienced gardeners advise adding a few crystals of potassium permanganate to the water. How to carry out an autumn transplant of hosts + photos The transplantation process itself begins with a complete digging of the shrub. Further, the roots need to be freed from the old soil and washed. After carefully examining the root system, all damaged branches are cut out. During transplantation, the plant is rejuvenated. To do this, the ends of the roots can be trimmed with a sharp pruner. Further, the mother bush is divided into plots, for convenience, a tool is used. All cuts and places of fractures must be powdered with ash or treated with fungicides. The planting pit is prepared in advance. Drainage from broken bricks, shards or rubble is laid at the bottom of the hole. Fallen leaves or humus are poured over the draining layer. The seedling is lowered into the hole and sprinkled with earth. During the transplantation of hosts in the fall, the root collar of the plant should be flush with the ground. In the future, it is mulched with humus. If you plan to plant several plants, then we must not forget about the impressive size of an adult bush. Enough space is left between the seedlings for their development. The optimal gap between plants is up to 1 meter. How to prepare the host for winter After the autumn transplant, the host needs additional care. If the weather is warm, then it is necessary to water the plants, not allowing the earth to dry out. Preparing the hosts for winter deserves special attention; in regions with a warm climate, the host does not need any special procedures. Before the onset of cold weather, the flower is mulched with sawdust, peat or hay. But in conditions of average and northern strip after transplantation, the shrub may die. Therefore, you need to take measures to protect the plant. 1. The host needs pruning. In autumn, after transplanting, the hosts cut off the old peduncles. So the plant does not waste energy on seed ripening. 2. Shrub leaves are not cut. When dry, they serve as natural mulch. 3. Before the onset of cold weather, the shrub is added dropwise and mulched with sawdust, peat, dry leaves. 4. Further, the plant is well watered with the preparation "Fitosporin" or sprinkled with tobacco dust. This is necessary in order to scare off snails in early spring. Hosts do not use film or other airtight materials for cover. This leads to decay of the plant. Despite the fact that many gardeners are inclined to advise not to prune the hosta leaves for the winter, experienced summer residents advise the opposite. Do it or not - it's up to you. If the flowerbed with hosts is large, then you can conduct an experiment by cutting off some of the plants. Hosta leaves are pruned in the fall, after they have completely turned yellow, but before frost. However, it is difficult for a beginner gardener to find the right moment, so before pruning leaves, you need to think carefully. ... After the autumn transplant, the hosts cannot be fertilized. At this time of year, the plant is preparing for winter, rather than actively developing. It is better to postpone all feeding of the shrub until spring. The covering material must retain heat, allow air and moisture to pass through. These qualities affect the safety of the perennial. If the plant is too weak, then it is better to postpone the transplant until spring. Hosts do not tolerate any interference, especially in autumn. Diseases and pests of hosts Perennials rarely get sick, but you still need to know about the most common diseases of hosts. Fusarium Hosta is susceptible to fungal diseases that spoil the appearance of the leaves. The lesion can be determined by the red-brown spots that appear on the surface of a healthy leaf. With the development of the disease, the lesion spreads to the entire surface of the leaf plate. At the first sign fungal disease you need to remove all damaged leaves and treat the shrub with Vectra. Rotting of the root collar autumn planting hosts, when the root collar is too deep in the soil, its rotting occurs. This is especially true when the weather is humid and it often rains. Compliance with all hosta planting rules will help prevent disease. If a disease occurs, the bush must be dug out and all damaged areas removed, and then disinfected in a solution of potassium permanganate. Further, the plant is transplanted to a new place. Slugs Among pests, slugs "love" the host. They feed on its leaves by making holes in them. Spraying and dusting with ash will help save the plant. Alternatively, you can transplant the shrub to another plant.

Hosta is a very interesting shrub. It is distinguished by its peculiar lovely flowers with a strong caramel smell. But its main advantage is its juicy spreading leaves. In addition, the plant grows well without sunlight, so it is often planted under trees or in other shady areas of the garden. An important component of hosta's autumn care, so that next season it will again delight you with its spectacular appearanceis her correct preparation for winter, namely pruning and shelter (mulching).

Features of care in the fall and preparation of hosts for winter: main activities

Many gardeners say that the hosta does not need special preparation and specific shelter from strong drops in temperature. But this judgment is wrong. This formulation is only suitable for plants that are grown in southern regions.

The plant tends to bloom in July-October, depending on the species and variety, therefore initial preparation for winter involves removing buds that have faded. Such an element of caring for hosts in summer and autumn is necessary so that the plant does not expend its energy on the formation of seeds and their ripening.

By the way! If your hosts do not bloom very beautifully (of the usual variety), then you can not let them bloom at all, but cut off the flowering arrows immediately after they appear.

The host loves moisture and abundant watering. Moreover, it is necessary to water correctly so that the plant does not catch a fungal infection, and more specifically, try not to get on the leaves.

By the way!The host is able to independently signal the need to water it, namely: it lowers its leaves to the ground. Moreover, you should not allow the leaves to dry out.

IN autumn months the host also needs watering. The soil under it should be spilled abundantly so that the entire root system is saturated with life-giving moisture before wintering. When the temperature begins to decrease, watering will need to be gradually reduced, and then completely stopped.

The last nitrogen feeding is carried out in the first half of summer for a more lush growth of greenery. Before wintering, any nitrogen fertilizers are no longer required, because they will provoke the growth of green mass and rhizomes of the plant, because of which it can winter badly, and its resistance to diseases will definitely decrease.

For better preparation plants for winter in the autumn period he needs phosphorus and potassium, so you can feed the host with, for example, bone meal and wood ash (for lovers organic farming) or mineral fertilizers - potassium sulfate and superphosphate (30-40 grams each per 1 square meter of the garden) or a special ready-made "autumn" fertilizer (according to the instructions).

Advice! Mineral fertilizers it is better to dissolve in water (in 10 liters), and organic ones - just pour around the plant, and then water.

With the onset of cold weather hosts should be covered, or rather mulched. For this, mown grass and peat are well suited (they must be mixed so that the grass does not cake).

By the way! Sawdust absorbs a lot of moisture, and in winter it can be harmful.

In autumn you can share and transplant hosts, you can learn more about this in the following video.

Video: how to share and transplant a host in the fall

Pruning hosts in the fall

The question "Should the host be cut for the winter in the fall?" - is the cause of disputes for many gardeners.

Some argue that cutting the foliage is highly discouraged. After all, it contains all the nutrients that must independently move from greenery to the root of the plant. And already upon completion of this process, the tops naturally die off by themselves.

Others (inexperienced growers) argue that you need to prune the hosta leaves for the winter.

So should the host be pruned in the fall for the winter?

According to the majority experienced gardeners, this is a rather meaningless procedure that can be performed only for aesthetic (decorative) purposes, because the plant hibernates well with leaves.

But if you still decide to cut the host for the winter, then when should it be done?

The main signal that the plant can be cut is when the leaves turn completely yellow.This means that all the nutrients have already been safely transferred to the root system.

How to prune hosts in the fall?

Take your pruning shears and cut off all the leaves, leaving about 10cm stumps.

Important!In general, pruning is best done in the spring, or rather, you can just walk with a rake and remove the foliage that has died out during the winter.

Video: why you don't need to crop hosts in the fall

Shelter hosts for the winter

Many novice amateur gardeners are thinking about whether to cover the host for the winter. It should be said right away that in cold regions the plant really needs to be sheltered. However, the essence of this shelter comes down exclusively to mulching the area around the bush.

In general, hosts are quite frost-resistant plants, besides, you do not need to preserve the aboveground part, every year it grows again.

So how do you properly cover your host for the winter?

Note! Obviously, it is necessary to have time to mulch before the onset of frost.

Mulching (sheltering) hosts in the fall should be performed in the following sequence:

• 1. Knead the mulch mixture. For example, it can consist of cut grass and peat (more). Also you can use bark or compost.

By the way! In principle, you can take the most common garden land... But using grass, peat or compost will serve excellent organic fertilizer in the spring.

2. Next, mulch the plant, covering it with a layer of 10-20 centimeters on all sides. Just don't put mulch on top of the leaves! Another thing is, if you cut off the leaves, then you can fill it with a mound. In general, for the winter the host should leave with leaves, which will finally fall after dying off and become an additional shelter.

Important! Such a shelter is quite enough to protect the roots of the plant from severe frosts.

Generally, you do not need to use special nonwoven covering materials such as agrofiber or spunbond.

Advice!In early spring, do not forget to rake off the mulch to allow the soil to warm up better and the plant grows faster.

Features of preparing hosts for winter in different regions

Each region has its own nuances of growing plants, in particular hosts. But as for autumn care and preparation for winter, there are differences only in the peculiarities of the shelter for the winter.

Important! If you have snowless winters, then you can play it safe and additionally cover it with non-woven material or spruce branches.

In the south of Russia

Hosts that are grown in southern regions (for example, in Krasnodar Territory), practically do not need shelter. It's another matter if you live in the Volgograd region, where there are fairly strong and prolonged frosts.

The approximate dates for mulching (sheltering) the host in the southern regions are the last days of October - the first half of November.

In the middle lane (Moscow region)

In the conditions of the middle zone (Moscow region), it is imperative to cover the host for the winter. In this case, it will be quite enough to mulch the root area with a thick layer of peat mixed with cut grass, or use bark or compost.

The approximate timing of shelter (mulching) of hosts in central Russia (Moscow region) is the end of September - the first half of October.

In the Urals and Siberia

Conditions of the Urals and Siberia are different severe frosts and subzero temperatures. Therefore, there is also a need for cover similar to the middle lane. At the same time, for additional insulation, you can throw snow masses over the plant or immediately cover it with spruce branches.

The approximate timing of shelter (mulching) hosts in the Urals and Siberia is September.

Typical mistakes in caring for a host in the fall when preparing for winter

Many gardeners, without thinking about the consequences, are able to commit rash actions that can harm the plant. But wrong autumn care behind the host in the fall, it can cause quite severe damage to the plant.

There are several mistakes that should not be made when caring for a plant in autumn and preparing it for winter:

1. Top dressing with nitrogen fertilizers with the onset of autumn – nitrogen fertilization entail the activation of leaf growth, so the shrub will try to release young leaves, and not prepare to go on winter holidays.
2. Lack of shelter (mulching) or, on the contrary, the use of special materials for shelter, especially waterproof ones. The thing is that hosts winter well just under a thick layer of mulch.

Thus, taking care of the hosta in the autumn does not present any particular difficulties. To do this, you just need to know the rules for pruning it - cut off only peduncles at the end of summer, and autumn pruning foliage does not waste your precious time. Much better to do her shelter, or rather mulching.

Video: preparing hosts for winter

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