How to process strawberries after harvest: tips and tricks from experienced gardeners. Features of care for strawberries in the fall: top dressing, pruning, shelter

Almost everyone makes these mistakes and useless actions. Strawberry care in the fall - unexpected nuances and subtleties. How to abandon meaningless work in the beds and in the field, how to prepare a generous harvest in the fall - simple advice from agronomists and experienced farmers.

1. Care for strawberries in the fall: do not cut it!

This is a fact: experienced gardeners do not cut strawberries in autumn. And the farmers do not cut - and uncut crop strawberries winters on industrial sites, and the crop gives an early, plentiful one. Why?

Strawberries of one-time fruiting, short daylight hours (KSD), and NSD, neutral daylight varieties, do not need pruning. They need only sanitary cleaning: they cut only diseased leaves and damaged ones.

Old, reddened, yellowed strawberries come in handy: they still participate in the life of the plant and protect young foliage.

The death of chloroplasts, with a cooling termination of the synthesis of chorophyll does not mean the cessation of respiration of the leaves, does not cancel their need.

The lack of cellular respiration, by the way - is one of the reasons for the decline in productivity. Pruning also slows the growth of a new outlet - protection from the cold and the foundation of the future crop.

The fruit buds of the KSD wild strawberry variety are laid in August-September, in the axils of the upper leaves, and the vegetative ones in the axils of the lower.

Cutting off at the end of summer or at the beginning of autumn, we destroy both buds and part of the crop in the embryo. And we do it from generation to generation!

Remontant strawberries fructify to frost: pruning it is not autumn care, but wrecking.

Varieties of NSD (and repair) lay the kidneys regardless of the length of daylight hours, but they also do not need an autumn haircut.

The reasons are the same: weakening of the bush due to loss of leaves, a decrease in winter hardiness.
If something needs to be cut off on grades of NSD, it is better to do this before the end of July - and conscience is clear, and the plant will prepare for winter.

Important! Strawberries are not pruned 20-25 days after harvest: the leaves pass plastic substances to the depleted fruiting plant.

Pruning in September-October is late, it’s not a departure, a crime: this winter may be the last for those who have remained after the “haircut” of puny bushes.

Pruning diseased strawberry leaves in the fall is not care, but the spread of infection.

In addition, fruiting due to the late laying of fruit buds is shifted, productivity decreases due to a decrease in their number.

- And sick leaves, - gardeners will be indignant? How not to cut? One can argue this way: the flu can not be cured with a haircut.

If the leaves have fungal spotting or other ailment - you need to treat with fungicides or get rid of diseased plants.

Mowing is pointless: in the spring, wild strawberries “bloom” again with a rainbow of diseases, and new plants become infected.

This is not autumn strawberry care - it is a waste of time and the spread of infection.

Important! Pruning in damp cold weather – cause of fungal diseases: fungal spores, bacterial infection get into damaged tissues.

2. Strawberry care in the fall is not a planting or transplant

Nonsense? Not at all: strawberries should be planted in late August, maximum in early September. Further planting - seedlings to the wind. And one more useless job.

Why? Again, bookmark generative kidneys. In seedlings planted in the fall, they will be planted in small quantities. And the risk of freezing in winter is great.

Transplantation is recommended until the first or second decade of September: even in warmer regions, the October relocation is fraught with lunges and reduced yields. And if you transplant, then your own seedlings with a big lump of earth: so the autumn chores are less traumatic, and perhaps not so reduce the harvest next year.

Advice! Frigo seedlings planted in the fall - money down the drain. And seedlings. Alas, in the fall, frigo seedlings are traded only by unscrupulous sellers.

Frigo seedlings have a short lifespan of several months — a little longer than the natural dormant period, and instead of intensive growth, “overdue” seedlings have a slow development.

The mother liquor will be, do not wait for the harvest!

The laying beds of Dutch, Italian Frigo seedlings know: the mother liquor will be good next year, fruiting can not be expected next year.

3. Nitrogen: when autumn strawberry care is dangerous

The most blasphemous for the gardener's ear: after all, care for strawberries in the fall is always the introduction of nitrogen! And organics - manure, compost, humus, and the nitrogen-mineral complex.

From biology lessons: at the end of August, all plants, including wild strawberries, stop growing green mass - the phase of root system growth begins.

During this period, nitrogen is almost not absorbed. The plant needs phosphorus to form roots, in potassium - to build tissues and increase frost resistance, in potassium. And - in trace elements of iron, manganese, molybdenum and others, allowing to absorb macrocells.

They don’t need nitrogen. It is needed after the harvest, in the summer - to shedding bushes.

Meanwhile, nitrogen fertilizers introduced since the fall are the cause of lunges, freezing. Why?

Firstly, nitrogen simulates the growth of green mass, the root system - pushes the resting phase. In winter, the plant enters the vegetation phase, when the sap flow is in full swing. And - dies from the cold.
Secondly, neither organics nor other nitrogen nutrition will be assimilated by the plant in autumn - only in spring.
Thirdly, in the spring a good part of fertilizers will become unavailable.

This is especially true of manure. Introducing it is not autumn fall, again, but a useless tribute to traditions.

Looking ahead: caring for strawberries in the fall, the last step is mulching.

Nitrogen in “agrarian gold” is presented in nitrate form - 50%, and in ammonium - 50%. The conversion of ammonium nitrogen to the nitrate form occurs both in the oxidation process and due to nitrifying bacteria.

The introduction of nitrogen in the form of organics does not make sense in autumn: nitrate forms of nitrogen are quickly washed out, they are very mobile in the soil.

Thus, in the spring, nitrogen will go to the lower layers of the soil, and strawberries will not reach. Like ammonium, which went over the winter into a nitrate form.

In addition, manure in the fall is a breeding ground for pests in the spring: from wireworms, chafers and others.

If we bring in organic matter, then in the form of pergna-rash. And not in the fall - real strawberry care begins in the spring.

4. When mulch is evil

Strawberry care in the fall includes shelter - mulching with a vegetable layer (straw, spruce branches, etc.), agrowolf. How often they advise themselves to use mulch, which is harmful in the fall. Sawdust and shavings, sunflower and buckwheat husks, peat - and this is pointless and not useful.

They don’t shelter with straw mulch for the winter: in comparison with non-woven materials this is a “cold” shelter, and can shift fruiting up to two weeks due to prolonged heating of the soil.

They do not mulch in autumn and peat: it protects from the cold, but does not allow the soil to warm up in the spring.

Peat is mulched in the fall, if the harvest is not critical, and also in the spring - for nutrition and moisture retention, protection against overheating.

Autumn on strawberries - time to set the arcs.

As for sawdust, shavings, husks, these are moisture-consuming materials, and plants are not waiting for protection from the cold, but icing or heating of the roots during the thaw.

5. Do not cover the strawberries ...

Do not cover with film for the winter without plant mulch: the leaves “freeze” by touching the film, with the agrofiber.

If freezing is the only drawback of agrofibre, the best of the options, then an air-impermeable film will destroy plants during thaw due to condensation, the greenhouse effect and airless space.

And do not cover, if you want to install arcs for an early berry in spring or just cover it with a spanbond.

Autumn is the time to establish arcs for the greenhouse, mini-tunnel and send strawberries for the winter. This is the only way to get an early berry.

Unexpectedly for many gardeners with experience, but the fact is: the installation of a greenhouse, tunnel shelter in the spring will accelerate ripening by only 10-12 days. Just a spanbond shelter in spring will give almost nothing - at best, 5-7 days. And in the winter greenhouse, the tunnel - under them, later, the dormant phase will begin, the buds will have time to form and differentiate, the vegetation will begin earlier.

Most often, plantings are attacked by a strawberry tick. Small insects actively breed when there is too much moisture on the berry beds or in wet weather. The tick lives on the mustache and sockets of the berry culture.

In the spring, a spider mite often appears, which sucks the juice from, and the pest entangles the inside of the leaves with a cobweb. All this leads to the death of plants, at best, to a decrease in productivity.

Raspberry-strawberry weevil spoils not only strawberries. The insect eats leaflets, as well as buds. In addition, females lay their eggs in buds.

If the weevil is wound up in the country or in the garden, a berry crop can not be expected. This pest can harm all flowering berry crops.

Snails, slugs, ants and millipedes are also not averse to feasting on juicy strawberries. They feed mainly on fruits, causing significant damage to the crop. If you take them on time, you can do without much loss.

Strawberry nematode is no less dangerous enemy of strawberries. Small worms, whose length reaches about 1 mm, live in the green part of plants. You can identify the pest by the characteristic reddish spots on the leaves.

Strawberry Pest Management Methods

Irrigation of the land of plants with tincture of leaves will help get rid of strawberry mites. Pour 1 kg of last year's tops with 10 liters of warm, but not hot water. Let it brew for at least 4 hours, put on a slow fire and boil. Strain the resulting broth, dilute with water 1: 1 and add 40 g of laundry soap. Spray strawberries - treatment should be carried out twice with an interval of 7 days.

In the fight against spider mites, strawberries can be sprayed with infusions of tobacco or wormwood, but this is not always effective. After flowering, it is best to treat with Fitoverm, and in the fall with Karbofos.

Specify the dosage in the instructions that appear on the package or in a piece of paper.

Getting rid of the weevil is easy. Take 1 kg of wormwood, add 4 liters of water and boil for 10 minutes. Strain and add 50 g of laundry soap - it prevents instant drainage of the decoction from the leaves. Spray the landing.

From snails, slugs, ants and other crawling pests that live on strawberries, use copper sulfate. Spray the powder in a thin layer on the soil between the rows. If there are too many pests, pollinate the leaves themselves with copper sulfate, water the plantings after a few hours.

Getting rid of a strawberry nematode is difficult. If the plants are already damaged, they can only be dug up and burned, and the area treated with bleach. After buying seedlings, be sure to rinse off the remaining soil with roots with salt water - 5 tablespoons of salt per 5 liters of water. Rinse leaves too.

Sources:

how to process Victoria

Fade plants can from a lack of moisture. And if it is enough, but the bushes still turn yellow, turn brown, lay on the ground, stop growing? The reason may be a disease of wild strawberry verticillum wilting.

Outlets received from such berry bushes are not suitable for planting. This is due to the fungus located in the soil (it can be stored in it for up to 13 years), which, filling the vessels of the roots, clogs them, and they no longer conduct water or nutrients.

The initial signs of verticillus wilting can be recognized in late May - June. A secondary outbreak occurs at the end of August - September. The varieties "Festivalnaya", "Zarya", "Beauty of Zagorye", "Komsomolka", and least of all - "Zenga - zengana", "Talisman", "Purple" are most affected by them. Sometimes late blight wilt also occurs on strawberries. Its signs are as follows: the appearance of ringing brown spots at the base of the petioles, shedding and dying of leaves, peduncles with green berries tied up, browning, and then blackening of the core of rhizomes, dying of fibrous roots, complete death of the plant after 1-2 years.

As soon as you notice plants affected by verticillous or late blight wilt, immediately remove them, punch or burn them. Disinfect the pit with bleach (100 g per bush). New strawberry plants in this place can not be from 6 to 13 years. Remember that it is risky to plant strawberries in the area where potatoes, cucumbers, eggplant, zucchini, and pumpkin grew before that - after them foci of infection may remain. It is better to plant seedlings in clean steam or after carrots, dill, legumes.

Other predecessors are also good - calendula, marigolds, onions, garlic. Some gardeners, using phytoncide properties of these plants, grow them together with wild strawberries. Noticing that any plants in your area suffer, before laying strawberries in the fall (for spring planting) (for autumn planting), add 85% thiazone powder (10-15 kg per hundred) to the soil, and when planting or after 5- 7 days after it, pour 0.2 - percent solution of benlat (150-200 g for each plant).

Unpleasant conditions from which strawberries will save

While enjoying strawberries, a person makes a tangible contribution to his health. Regular use can cure a number of unpleasant diseases and conditions, such as:
- intestinal dysbiosis;
- smell from the mouth;
- low hemoglobin;
- hair loss;
- stool disorder;
- vitamin deficiency;
- high blood pressure;
- frequent infections of the nasopharynx;
- extended "goiter";
- joint pain.

Eating strawberries is also the prevention of kidney and gastrointestinal diseases. If you enjoy the desserts from berries and dairy products regularly, you can insure yourself against the flu virus. The berry contains many minerals in an easily digestible form, and a small amount of sugar allows strawberries to be consumed even by diabetics.

Strawberries accumulate iodine, so the berry helps patients with thyroid dysfunction.

Even in antiquity, a juicy berry was used as a diaphoretic and diuretic, which accelerated metabolic processes, while quenching thirst.

A tender berry does not injure the intestines with its acid, like other fruits, but gently acts on it, therefore it is useful for children and weak patients.

Due to its high zinc content, strawberries are a natural potency enhancer.

How to use the miraculous power of strawberries?

To achieve a therapeutic effect, you need to consume at least 350-400 grams of berries per day throughout the season. Preference should be given to unpaved strawberries, rather than greenhouse, if possible, freshly picked.

Broths of strawberries are also useful, for which every day you need to brew 6-7 berries in a thermos. Drink an infusion before a meal in half a glass.
After a course of such treatment, which lasts just one season, the following changes are observed:
- blood sugar goes down;
- pressure normalizes;
- increases the level of hemoglobin;
- Improves the work of the digestive tract;
- skin, hair and nails look much healthier than before treatment;
- immunity is strengthened;
- friability and bleeding of gums disappears.

Regular consumption of strawberries gives a lot of strength - exactly what is needed in the summer, in the season of hassle and holidays!

Autumn processing is a guarantee of a rich and high-quality harvest in the coming season. To cut and harvest old leaves, to loosen and feed, to cover plants for the winter period - this is the basic care for strawberries. Autumn work with this crop begins after the fruiting phase.

Weeding and cultivation

Basic pruning rule: do not overdo it.Each bush needs to mow directly the leaf blade itself, preserving the protruding stems. Thus, the growth point remains untouched, and the bushes soon begin to let out new leaves. All antennae in berry bushes also need to be removed.

Top dressing

Fertilizing is another important step in how to care for strawberries in the fall. The plant responds well to organic nutrients: bird (chicken) droppings, horse manure, mullein or humus. Also, gardeners often contribute (it well replaces top dressing).

As for mineral fertilizers, you can use superphosphate or potassium salt.

Important! It is highly undesirable to add chlorine-containing substances as fertilizer, since a strawberry plant does not respond well to chlorine.

First, humus, mullein or are spread in small pieces over all the beds. Rains and planned irrigation will gradually spread fertilizers, evaporating useful substances from them and delivering them deeper into the strawberry root system.

However, the bed method works much faster. For this purpose, fresh litter is dissolved in water in a ratio of 1:20 and thoroughly mixed. Then the resulting liquid is poured under the berry bushes. Consumption for 7-10 bushes is approximately 1 bucket of the composition. In the case of using mineral dressings, they are scattered over the site, closing up with a chopper in the ground. It is immediately necessary to water. So that after moistening the soil, a crust does not form on its surface, the site is mulched or needles. In the future, both loosening the soil and watering the plants will be possible through the layer.

Soil renewal

If you have a small land plot and you have to cultivate the same plant crop in one place from year to year, it is natural that the soil needs updating (rehabilitation). Pathogens of fungal diseases accumulate in the old land, and the number of nutrients decreases.

The whole secret of the renewal of the land lies in the enhanced agricultural technology of cultivation. For example, you can form deep or raised beds by filling them with humus or compost. Under such conditions, a partial replacement of the soil is underway, microorganisms that process organics into new soil are intensively functioning. In addition, the berries are in excess supplied with nutrients.
Plants can be protected from and thanks to the healing treatment in the autumn of soil under strawberries. Do not forget also that the beds need to be mulched from time to time. Mulch will serve as a barrier to the penetration of infections into the aerial parts of strawberry plants.

Autumn transplant

For transplantation, take one or two year old bushes, previously divided into parts. You can also use the shoots formed on the antennae. Transplantation is performed, first of all, with the aim of rejuvenating the planting. For 3-4 years, the berry bushes grow old, the number of peduncles decreases, and the berries themselves are smaller.

It is carried out precisely in the fall, since during this period the soil is more humid and warmed up, and the weather is cool. Start replanting the bushes in mid-August and finish in the first weeks of September. So you give the plant time to take root, take root and grow a good green mass.
By winter, the strawberries will go strong and clothed in lush foliage. Most of the seedlings transplanted during this period easily tolerate winter, and begin to bloom. Thus, an autumn transplant is the best answer to the question of how to prepare strawberries for winter.

Moody and whimsical strawberries are susceptible to various fungal diseases and are often affected by harmful insects. Timely and competently carried out autumn preventive measures will avoid unpleasant problems in the next season.

Insect repellents

For preventive spraying of strawberries in the fall from pests, the following drugs are used:

Chemical:
- Karbofos (30 g per 10 l) - from strawberry and spider mites;
  Many gardeners still prefer time-tested karbofos
- Alatar (5 ml per 4 l) - against raspberry-strawberry weevil;
  Alatar can be used to destroy whites and leafworms, ticks and weevils, aphids and Colorado potato beetles
- Actellik (20 ml per 2 l of water) - from ticks;
  Actellik - an insecticide that helps get rid of pests such as the moth, mite, aphid, sawfly, moth, thrips, false scutellaria, whitefly, scutellum
- Fufanon-Nova (6.5 ml per 5.5 l) - from whiteflies, thrips, weevil, scale insects, sawfly, etc .;
  Fufanon-nova insecticide is a contact-intestinal drug for controlling pests of fruit, berry, vegetable and ornamental crops
- Agrovertin (1 tablet per 10 l), Inta-Vir (1 mg per 1 l) - from strawberry ticks, whiteflies, weevils, etc .;
  The use of Inta-Vira makes it possible to quickly and efficiently destroy almost any insect pest
- Actara (4 g per 1 liter, then diluted according to instructions) - against more than 200 different insects.
  Actara insecticidal drug is popular among plant growers due to its speed, strength and a wide range of elimination objects.
Biological:
Folk:
- decoction of tomato tops (from a spider mite) - 1 kg of tops per 10 liters of hot water, hold for 5-6 hours, then boil for 2 hours;
  To prepare a decoction, you can use leaves and stepsons
- garlic infusion (from aphids) - 0.2-0.3 kg of chopped garlic is poured with a bucket of water, insist a week;
  The smell of garlic repels aphids
- dandelion infusion (against strawberry mites) - 800 g per 10 liters of boiling water, insist 4-5 hours.
  Dandelion infusion depresses the vital activity of pathogens, in particular, the fungus that causes gray rot, and scares away many pests, including aphids, ants, copper flakes and various ticks

Bioinsecticides are most effective at air temperatures not lower than + 16 ... + 18 ° C. These drugs have a targeted effect on insects, therefore they are considered practically safe for humans and domestic animals.

Video: fighting strawberry mites after strawberry pruning

Means against diseases

For prophylactic autumn spraying against diseases using means:

Chemical:
- bordeaux liquid: 1% - from spotting, 2–4% - from gray rot;
  Bordeaux fluid is one of the most powerful remedies in the fight against fungal or bacterial diseases.
- Topaz (ampoule per bucket) - from fruit rot, rust, etc .;
  The drug Topaz instantly infects spores of the fungus and prevents it from developing further
- Fundazole (5 g per 5 l) - from gray rot and powdery mildew;
  Fundazole is a broad-spectrum fungicide (antifungal agent) for plant protection
- copper oxychloride (1 tablespoon per 10 liters) - from rot and spotting.
  Against rot and spotting, strawberry beds are sprayed with copper chloride
Biological:
Folk:

A solution of copper sulfate (30 g per 10 liters of water) protects the strawberry bushes from the attack of pests and fungal pathologies. Regular iodine (5 drops per bucket) will scare away weevils and ticks, and also prevent the appearance of gray rot.

At the end of the growing season, it is necessary to process strawberries from pests and diseases.

A neighbor shared with me a universal recipe for processing garden strawberries, which is effective both against pests and against most diseases. A working emulsion is prepared from:

wood ash - 2 tbsp. l .;
boiled vegetable oil - 3 tbsp. l .;
table vinegar - 2 tbsp. l .;
liquid soap - 2 tbsp. l .; warm water - 10 l.

Video: hot shower for strawberries

Video: autumn processing of strawberry beds from pests and diseases

Handling strawberry plantations from pests and diseases is necessary not only in the spring. According to most gardeners, autumn preventive measures have a much greater effect compared to spring treatments and can significantly reduce damage from fungal pathologies, as well as from attacks of harmful insects during the next growing season.

Preparing strawberries for winter is an indispensable condition for rich harvests. Without autumn leaves, strawberries can die in part or in full from cold, stewing, and infections. How to prepare strawberries for winter with maximum benefit for plants - we will consider further.

When to cook strawberries for winter

Preparation of the plantation for the winter season begins immediately after the collection of the last berries. Most summer residents on this lose interest in strawberries until next year. This is a huge mistake. You need to continue to take care of the bushes: weeding, watering, feeding. In addition, at the end of summer, in a number of regions, strawberry leaves must be completely mowed to reduce the spread of infections.

Preparing strawberries for wintering consists of:

mulching;
top dressing;
mowing;
maintaining the soil in optimal condition - wet, loose, fertile.

Experienced gardeners devote much time to prolific strawberries. Care at this time is aimed at creating favorable conditions for wintering and abundant fruiting for the next year.

What work to carry out in August

Fruiting ordinary strawberries, not remontantny. ends in July, and from early and medium varieties the last berries are picked even earlier - in July.

August is the time on which the size of the next year's crop depends. At this time, it is mainly necessary to remove the growing mustache. Some of them can be used for seedlings to create a new plantation.

The best seedlings are obtained from the first outlets from the mother plant - they are the most prolific.

In August, the plantation continues to be watered and loosened. It is advisable to carry out one top dressing with manure, humus or mineral fertilizer. Useful wood ash. It will protect the bushes from diseases and nourish with potassium - an element that increases the frost resistance of plants.

Remove leaves with secateurs, leaving only bare stalks. Spray the “bald” bed with malathion so that no pest survives.

Table: what diseases does leaf pruning relieve

Pathology	Signs	Wintering Method
Strawberry mite	Leaves shriveled, with a yellowish tint and an oily sheen.	Females on the leaves
White, brown and brown spotting	In summer, spots appear on the leaves, in the autumn they grow and the plates fall off	Spores of fungi on plant debris lying on the ground
	White plaque on the back of leaf blades, and then on petioles	Mushroom spores on plant debris
Gray rot	Brown spots appear on leaves, buds, flowers, and a gray coating on berries	Mushroom spores on plant debris

In October, potash is useful for strawberries. Per square meter, you need to add a teaspoon of potassium sulfate. It is more convenient to do this in the form of foliar top dressing. A spoonful of fertilizers is dissolved in 10 liters of water and watered plants from a watering can, abundantly wetting the foliage.

Potassium changes the composition of cell juice. As a result, plants are easier to deal with frost. For strawberries, as for any evergreen plant, potash top dressing is especially important, because its leaves need to be kept green under snow, in cold and dark.

Features of training by region

The climatic conditions of our country are so diverse that there is no suitable agricultural technology for all. In each region, summer residents prepare plants for wintering in different ways. When compiling a calendar of work on a strawberry plantation, it is imperative to take into account the climatic features of your area.

South

In the south of Russia - the North Caucasus, Stavropol Territory, Krasnodar Territory, Rostov Region, strawberries can be planted even in November-December. That is, here in the fall they are not only engaged in preparing plantations for wintering, but also breaking up new ones. Late planting is an important distinguishing feature of strawberry cultivation in the southern climate.

Summer residents of the south plant many varieties of a neutral day. Such plants begin to bear fruit 5 weeks after planting. They lay flower buds at any time of the year, so feeding and watering can not be stopped even in autumn.

Varieties of a neutral day in September must be freed from old leaves. Otherwise, fungal infections will spread throughout the site. In the summer, 1-3 mowing is also carried out - after each collection of berries. In total, at least 3 cleanings are carried out per season.

At the end of the season, half-ripened mulch is planted in the soil, and a new portion is poured into the aisles. The approximate time for this operation is November. Mulch protects the roots from sudden changes in temperature and freezing. In March, it is again buried in the soil during the spring digging of row-spacings.

Ural and Siberia

In the northern climate with a short summer, strawberry leaves usually do not cut, since they do not have time to recover before the onset of winter. Flower buds are poorly laid on the mowed strawberries, the bushes have a hard winter and lose their productivity.

If pruning is necessary due to severe damage to the plantation by ticks and spotting, it is carried out a little earlier than in the Moscow Region at the end of July. In August in Siberia, you can remove only the lower aging leaves, cut the remains of peduncles, rake the litter on which spores of gray rot settled for wintering.

What is strawberry afraid in winter

Strawberry roots are damaged at a temperature of -8. At -10, the aboveground part freezes. In winter cold, the bushes can survive only if they are well covered with a snow coat.

Unprepared for winter plants in the years when snow falls after the onset of severe frosts, freeze. Degree of frost damage to the plantation:

the first - the leaves froze;
the second - leaves, stems and horns froze, fruit buds were killed;
the third - the ground part and roots died.

In the first case, plants simply reduce yield. When freezing the second degree in the current season, the plantation will resume growth, but the berries will be only next year. After frostbite of the third degree, the plants will not come to life. Such a plantation needs to be uprooted and a plot used to grow other crops.

Strawberries will not freeze if there is a snow pillow at least 25 cm thick. If there is no snow, and the temperature drops below -8, beds need to be covered with straw, humus, leaves or any other loose material with a layer of at least 6 cm.

It is important to cover the beds when the ground is already frozen. If you fall asleep organic matter on moist soil, the bushes will mate and die.

In the spring, remove the mulch outside the bed - you can simply rake it in the aisles, using a fan rake.

Experienced gardeners know that a strong strawberry bush can withstand any frost. Therefore, they do not abandon the plantation after harvest, but continue to water, feed and process plants from pests and diseases. Poorly developed, depleted bushes will die, and those who receive quality care will winter.