How to grow a peach from a stone. Peach cultivation - planting and care at home and in the country

There was a stereotype that you can’t grow a cultivated tree from a seed or seed, you get a wild bird, and to make sure of such a “truth”, it is suggested that you bear fruit 7–10 years. But over time, this myth, created by sellers of seedlings, crumbles with respect to many cultures. Among them are peach and nectarine.

Peach and bone nectarine: successful cultivation practice

Amateur gardeners have already grown, tested and share on the Internet, on forums and in videos, their successful experience in growing these fruit crops from seed. It turns out that the tree grows and sets the first fruits already in the second or third year. Of course, a tree with large fruits will not grow from southern fruit in the middle zone and Siberia, peaches and nectarines will be smaller, but the taste and aroma will remain.

Nectarine is a subspecies of peach. The plant is not a hybrid, but created by nature. Scientists in vivo discovered such a mutation (peach with smooth fruits) and secured by growing cultivated seedlings from its seeds. Therefore, all technologies for growing peach from seed are also true for its direct relative, nectarine.

Born in a new region, the tree will adapt to the local climate. However, at the genetic level, this culture is still thermophilic. Although there are winter-hardy peach varieties (Winter-hardy, Frost, White Swan, etc.). Their wood can withstand frosts of -30 ... -40 ° C, but flower buds die already at -20 ... -22 ° C. That is, the tree will grow, but will not bloom in spring, there will be no fruits. Therefore, in the State Register of Breeding Achievements of the Russian Federation there are no varieties zoned for the middle zone and Siberia.

Residents of the northern regions did not come to terms with this state of affairs. They also grow peaches and nectarines in plots and summer cottages, but in stlan form. As for the southerners, residents of Ukraine, Krasnodar Territory, Crimea, they can grow sweet fruits from seed without any fear.

Peach seedlings in southern regions emerge from self-sowing

They say that seed trees do not repeat the varietal properties of the mother plant. But no one bothers to select from several seedlings those that correspond to the variety. From them you can again take seeds and sow the second generation, thereby securing the necessary qualities.

Video: a peach grown from seed is already bearing fruit

Planting peach and nectarine with a bone at home

Most often, seeds for propagation of peaches in the autumn are simply buried in the garden and seedlings are observed in the spring. But if you want to control the whole process, and not be tormented by the unknown until spring or decide to plant it in the spring, that is, options for growing in such cases.

Where can I get bones and how to prepare them

To get planting material, most of the gardeners of our country will have to go to the market or to the hypermarket at the end of summer and buy the ripe and sweetest peaches or nectarines there and take out the seeds from them. Southerners and Ukrainians only need to come to the garden in summer and reach out to pick ripe fruits from their or neighboring tree.

Before autumn sowing, wash and dry fresh seeds. If they were stored all winter until spring, dried up, then perform two simple manipulations:

  1. Soak in rain or melt water for 8–10 hours.
  2. Keep 3-4 days in a wet sawdust or rag at room temperature.

The correct timing of sowing

It is undesirable to keep the sprouts of peaches and nectarines at home for a long time! In conditions of stagnation of air, its dryness or, conversely, high humidity, seedlings become ill with a black leg, spider mites settle on leaflets. It happens that grains rot, and not having time to ascend.

Sow when the heat comes, there is a lot of sunlight on the windowsills, windows and windows often open. The sooner the seedlings find themselves in the conditions of your climate, the faster they will adapt to it, grow stronger and better prepare for winter. However, they can be planted in open ground only after the end of return frosts. Therefore, the optimal time for sowing seeds is 1–1.2 months before the onset of heat, plus 2 weeks for emergence. It turns out that in Siberia it can be sown in April, Moscow and the region in March-April, in the south of the Russian Federation and Ukraine in February-March.

Stratification

Sowing with stratification is not the only way, but the most reliable. Seeds for stratification are sent 3-4 months before sowing, that is, in the south they begin the process in November, north - in early February.

For Ukraine and the South, there is such an option: start stratification in February, and in April sow seeds immediately into the ground, bypassing the cultivation on the windowsill.

Certification Steps:

  1. Wrap the seeds in a damp cloth and place in a plastic bag. Poke holes in it with a toothpick so that the seeds can breathe.
  2. Place the packaging at the very bottom of the refrigerator. The optimum temperature is + 1 ... +5 ° C.
  3. Take out seeds once a week, unfold, wash with clean water, change the bag and napkin to prevent mold and rot.

Seeds can germinate in the refrigerator ahead of schedule. We'll have to sow them immediately and take intensive care: to protect against diseases and pests, to clarify. The reason for premature germination is that the temperature in the refrigerator is above optimal. This can be avoided by monitoring not only the seeds, but also the temperature inside the refrigerator.

It is believed that the rate of germination during stratification depends on the variety, some germinate after 2 months.

Sprouted seeds should be immediately planted in the ground.

Soil preparation

The soil is suitable universal from the store or its own, mixed with humus and any baking powder (perlite, vermiculite, coconut fiber, sand) in a ratio of 1: 1: 0.5. Both in their own and in store mixes fungi of diseases and larvae of pests can sleep, disinfection is necessary. Warm up the soil to a state of soaring in the oven, microwave or oven. Do this a week before sowing, and you can fry the soil in the autumn on the grill.

Seeding with bone at home

Glasses or pots with a volume of 200-300 ml, always with drainage holes, fill with prepared soil mix, pour melt, rain, as a last resort tap and settled water. Arrange the seeds in cups, pushing them into the ground to a depth of not more than 1 cm. Gardeners noticed that when planting to a great depth, the seed rots after cracking the shell and does not have time to germinate.

Not always and not everyone can understand: on which edge the bone will snap open, from which end the spine will appear. When landing on an edge, it may turn out that the spine is directed upwards and the cotyledons are down. To properly navigate, the sprout will need additional time and effort. Therefore, the bones are not laid on the butt, but flat.

Put the bone flat, not on the edge

Cover the crops with a film and take it to a warm place (around +25 ° C), you can have a dark place and wait for seedlings, regularly opening, ventilating and moisturizing.

Keep crops in a warm place under covers or foil

The germination rate of peach and nectarine seeds is low - about 50%.

Sowing with a nucleolus from a bone

The method is not easy, because the peach bone is thick-walled; it is difficult to split it without damaging the contents. Pliers, hammers, chisels, knives are used. But it is safer for the fingers and nucleoli to use a vise. The bone is clamped between moving planes and gradually compressed until it splits.

The walls of the bones are very thick, it is difficult to split them

You can immediately sow the seed in a glass or sprout it first in a cloth. According to eyewitnesses: seedlings appear from stratified bone after 2 weeks, and from nucleolus after 14 days. That is, there is no difference in germination rate.

The nucleoli were not buried, there is a positive result: the root neck in the air, did not rot, the plants develop

Seedling care at home

Provide seedlings conditions as close to natural. Keep them on the lightest and warmest windowsill, on fine days open the entire window. A temperature difference is required: during the day - from 23 ° C to 30 ° C, at night - 18 ... 20 ° C. Do not turn the seedlings to the glass with different sides, do not rearrange them from place to place. Mark with a marker the side of the pot facing the light. Always maintain this position, and when planting in the ground, orient the seedling with the marked side to the south.

The rest is home care:

  • watering as the earth dries up;
  • top dressing every 10 days with a complex mixture of Fertik Lux;
  • timely detection of pests, diseases and their control.

Open transplant

A school for growing seedlings is prepared from autumn or early spring, as soon as the ground warms up. Choose a place sunny, without flooding by rain and melt water. It is desirable that in winter there was good snow cover. Typically, this area is found near the wall of the house or barn.

Scatter fertilizers on the surface of the bed, spending 1 m 2: a humus bucket and a glass of ash. You can replace the ash with superphosphate - 20 g / m 2 and potassium sulfate - 15 g / m 2.

How to transplant seedlings:


In the future, monitor the moisture of the soil and the cleanliness of the beds, weed out weeds. In the winter, for the seedlings, build a hut of spruce branches or brushwood and agrofibre. Trees that have undergone natural selection and woke up in the spring can be transplanted to a permanent place.

Video: peach from a stone (Ukraine)

Seed nectarines and peaches grow quickly and early fruiting. In the northern regions, they are grown in stlan form through seedlings. In Ukraine and the south of the Russian Federation, thanks to the early and warm spring, seeds can be sown in the ground immediately after stratification, bypassing the stage on the windowsill.

Peach (lat.Prunus persica) - a plant of the subgenus Almonds of the family Pink. Where the plant came from, no reliable data. In any case, it is known that the peach of David, which is a wild-growing form of common peach, grows in the nature of Northern China. In culture, the tree is cultivated in warm regions, and China is the champion for the industrial cultivation of peaches.

Planting and Peach Care

  • Landing: in areas with a cool climate - in the spring (before the start of sap flow), in warm regions - in the spring and in the fall.
  • Bloom: since mid-April.
  • Lighting: bright sun.
  • The soil: any well-drained.
  • Watering: early varieties - on average 2-3 times per season, late varieties - 5-6 times. Water consumption - from 2 to 5 buckets per tree, depending on age and size. Peaches are watered early in the morning or in the evening. The first watering - in late May or early June, the second - in the first half of July, the third - in the first half of August. The soil is saturated with water to a depth of 60-70 cm. For the quality of the fruit, watering is important 3-4 weeks before harvesting: depending on the age of the tree, the water flow is from 30 to 60 liters. The next watering is only after harvesting. The last watering is in winter, October. Water consumption for water-charging irrigation is 90-100 liters per each m² of trunk circle.
  • Feeding: poor soils are fed annually with organic and mineral fertilizers, and organic fertilizers are added to the fertile soil once every 2-3 years.
  • Cropping: sanitary and formative - in the spring, between the beginning of sap flow and peach blossom. In the fall - pruning for sanitary purposes.
  • Reproduction: seeds, grafting, grafting.
  • Pests: plum and eastern moths, aphids, scale insects, striped moths, flower-weevils, fruit and mining moths, spider mites.
  • Disease klyasterosporiosis, moniliosis, powdery mildew, curly leaves, coccomycosis, scab, fruit and gray rot, cytosporosis, milky luster, gum, verticillosis, homosis (mushroom burn).

Read more about growing peaches below.

Peach Tree - Description

The peach root system is located close to the surface - only at a depth of 20-50 cm. Peach trees reach an average of 4 m in height, and their crown can grow up to 6 m in diameter. Peach leaves are lanceolate, serrate on the edges. Pink or red flowers, almost sessile, open in the middle or end of April, before leaves appear on the peach, so from afar the blooming peach resembles sakura. The peach fruit, usually velvety, can be flat, rounded or elongated-elliptical with a groove on one side. The fruit bone is wrinkled, furrowed, with a pointed apex.

Peach trees enter fruiting in 2-4 years from the moment of planting; the fruiting period lasts 10-15 years. Peach, like mangoes and oranges, is one of the most delicious fruits with the subtlest aroma and refreshing taste. It is related to fruit trees such as almonds, from which it differs only in fruits, apricot, irrigation, quince, chokeberry, plum, mountain ash, hawthorn, rose hip, cotoneaster, apple tree, pear and medlar.

We offer you carefully selected material on how to grow a peach in your garden and how to care for a peach, how to process a peach from pests and diseases, how to fertilize a peach throughout the season and how to plant a peach if you want to breed it .

Peach planting

When to plant a peach

Peach planting time depends on the climatic features of your area. The farther south you live, the more appropriate it will be to plant a peach in the fall. In the northern regions, it is better to plant seedlings in open ground in spring, so that during the spring-summer season the trees are well rooted and have time to grow. The conditions of the middle band make it possible for both spring and autumn planting of peach, but it is better to give preference to the latter.

For a peach, choose a sublime and sheltered from the wind, but sunny place on the south side of the site. Large trees, shrubs and buildings should not cover the seedling from the sun. Place the peach at least 3 m from other plants. Do not plant a peach where strawberries, alfalfa, clover, nightshade and gourds grew before it, as it can cause verticillosis. After these plants, you can plant a peach in the plot only after 3-4 years.

Peach planting in spring

The foundation pit for a seedling needs to be dug up in advance - the more time passes from digging a pit to planting a tree, the better the soil will be. If you are planning to plant a peach in the spring, prepare a hole for it in the fall, six months before planting. The depth of the pit depends on the size of the root system, but, as a rule, a hole for a seedling is dug with a diameter of 50-70 cm, its depth should be the same. A strong long peg of such a length is driven into the bottom of the pit in the center so that it protrudes at least half a meter above the surface.

If the soil on the site is poor, the top layer of soil removed from the pit is mixed with rotted manure, humus or compost in the amount of 5-8 kg, 200-300 g of wood ash, 50 g of superphosphate, 50 g of potassium chloride are added and all are mixed thoroughly. Only mineral fertilizers and ash are added to the fertile soil. The soil with additives is poured into the center of the pit with a slide.

When buying seedlings, it is worth asking how much they are adapted to the terrain in which they will grow. Make sure that the fusion site of the scion with the stock is smooth, without sag. Peach bark and its root system must also be healthy - pinch off a piece of bark: its underside should not be brown, but green. Carefully inspect the roots of the seedling and make sure that they are not dry and do not rot. Annual peach seedlings take root best in the open ground.

The tree is placed on a mound in the center of the pit, carefully spread its roots and fill the foundation pit with soil. As a result, the vaccination site should be several centimeters above the surface of the site. The soil is trampled from the edges of the trunk circle to the trunk, then the seedling is watered with two or three buckets of water. When the water is absorbed and the earth settles, tie the tree to the peg, and mulch the trunk circle with a layer of manure 8-10 cm thick. Make sure that the mulch does not come into contact with the seedling trunk.

Peach planting in the fall

On the eve of the autumn planting, a pit for a seedling is dug up at least 2-3 weeks, but in the autumn only ash and mineral fertilizers are mixed with soil. The soil with fertilizers, as well as during spring planting, is poured with a hill into the center of the pit around the peg. Peach is planted in autumn in the same way as in spring, but after planting and watering the seedling, when the soil is dry, the tree is spudded to a height of 20-30 cm, and on the eve of the onset of cold weather, the peach trunk is wrapped in burlap, making holes for ventilation on the south side of it.

Peach Care

Peach Care in the Spring

Peach care begins in mid-April: the first procedure is to treat the tree with swollen buds from the codling moth, aphids and other pests. Then you have to process peach with a three percent Bordeaux liquid from fungi. Peach pruning is carried out on a pink bud for replacing and treating fungi with preparations replacing Bordeaux liquid, since during the growing season peach should not be sprayed with copper-containing preparations.

After flowering, a combined treatment of trees from pests and diseases is carried out.

If the winter was snowless and the spring is dry, do not forget to water the peach in May.

Peach Care In Summer

After the excess ovary has crumbled from the tree, distribute the load of the fruits on the tree: leave so many fruits on each fruiting shoot that there should be one ovary by 8-10 cm in length, remove the remaining fruits. Follow the condition of the soil in the tree-trunk circle - loosen the soil and remove weed grass. A peach needs watering in the summer, especially when there is lingering heat, but first wait until the seeds have hardened, otherwise the fruits will crack. In order not to lose the crop, process the tree from diseases and pests.

Before collecting fruits, it is advisable to carry out 2-3 foliar top dressing of peach with potash fertilizers to increase the sugar in the fruits, which can be combined with processing from pests and powdery mildew. No later than a month before the harvest, peach is irrigated - this will increase the fruits by one third.

Peach Care in Autumn

In August and September, a peach lays and forms flower buds, and their winter hardiness directly depends on the amount of moisture in the ground, which is why it is so important to recharge the peach, which is carried out at these times.

If you notice that your tree is often affected by fungal diseases, as a preventive measure in October, when the leaves begin to change color, treat the peach with three percent Bordeaux liquid, and after deciduous with a one percent solution of copper sulfate or a seven percent solution of urea.

In autumn, organic and mineral fertilizers are planted in the ground of the near-stem circle, which should be enough for the tree until spring.

Watering peach

The amount of watering during the growing season depends on weather conditions, but on average, early peach varieties are watered 2-3 times per season, and later ones 5-6 times. For a session on one tree, from 2 to 5 buckets of water are consumed. Watering is carried out in the early morning or evening. The first time a peach is watered in early June, and if winter was without snow, and spring without rain, it is better to water the plant at the end of May. The next watering is carried out in the first half of July, and the third - in the first half of August. Try to wet the soil to a depth of the roots - 60-70 cm.

It is very important to conduct watering 3-4 weeks before the harvest, which will allow the fruits to grow mass. The amount of water for each m² of the trunk circle is 30-60 liters, depending on the age of the tree. After this, until the harvest, the peach should not be watered, otherwise its fruits will become watery and lose their sugar content.

No less important is winter peach watering, saturating the soil with moisture and increasing the winter hardiness of the tree. Water consumption for water-charging irrigation 90-100 l per m² barreled circle.

Peach dressing

Peach cultivation involves the annual introduction of fertilizer into the soil. The amount and composition of fertilizing depends on the quality of the soil. For example, poor soils require annual application of both mineral fertilizers and organic matter, and organic fertilizers are applied to fertile soils once every 2-3 years. In conditions when it is often necessary to water a peach, the amount of fertilizer applied is increased, since they are washed out during watering.

The first spring top dressing of peach in still sleeping buds can be treatment of the tree with a seven percent urea solution: this measure will provide the plant with nitrogen and, in addition, it will destroy pathogens and pests that have hibernated in cracks in the bark and in the upper soil layer. Before processing the peach, make sure that the buds on the trees are still sleeping, otherwise the urea will burn them. If you are late and the buds begin to bloom, instead of leafing, dig the soil in peach-tree trunks while simultaneously adding 70 g of ammonium nitrate and 50 g of urea per m² of trunks under the young trees. The older the tree, the more fertilizer is needed per unit area: every 2-3 years, the dose of each fertilizer increases by 15-20 g.

In the summer, it is better to fertilize in a non-root way. How to feed a peach during the period of growth and ripening of fruits? The culture responds well to such a fertilizer composition: 100-150 g of an aqueous extract of superphosphate, 50-60 g of ammonium nitrate or 30-50 g of urea, 50-80 g of ammonium sulfate and 30-60 g of calcium chloride or 50-70 g of potassium sulfate, 15 g of manganese and 10 g of borax dissolved in 10 l of water. If the fruits on peach are already ripening, exclude the nitrogen component and borax from this composition.

To achieve a more intense color and increase the sugar content of the fruits during the ripening phase, foliar top dressing of peach is carried out with a solution of 30 g of potassium salt or potassium sulfate in 10 l of water.

In autumn, under the digging of the near-stem circle, 40 g of superphosphate and 50 g of calcium chloride per m² are added to the soil. Once every 2-3 years in the fall, organic fertilizers are added to the soil - humus or compost, but instead it is possible to grow siderata between rows - oilseed radish, rape, lupine or rape.

Peach wintering

The peach is thermophilic, and it needs to be covered for the winter: next to the trunk, two pegs the height of a tree stem are driven into the ground and a trunk and pegs are wrapped in a bag of sugar. It is possible to make a box around the trunk of cardboard and wrap it with foil. If your winters are not too cold, spud peach stump with earth to a height of 50-60 cm. The trunk circle for the winter is mulched with a layer of peat or humus 10-15 cm thick.

Peach pruning

When to prune a peach

The best time for peach pruning is the time interval of two to three weeks between the beginning of sap flow and the beginning of flowering. It is easiest for a plant to tolerate a haircut from the beginning of the appearance of pink buds to the beginning of their opening - this is a period of time of about a week. At this time, the risk of peach infection with cytosporosis is minimal. After harvesting, sanitary pruning of the tree should be carried out.

Peach formation must begin from the first year of growth, and the formation will be completed only after four years. How necessary is forming crown pruning? Firstly, it regulates the balance between the crown and the root system of the plant. Secondly, it allows you to maintain tree health in good condition. Thirdly, it contributes to the earlier entry of peach into fruiting, and also provides you with convenient harvesting.

How to prune a peach

Peaches of different ages are pruned differently. The crown of the tree is usually formed in the form of a bowl. How it's done? In the year of planting, the seedling conductor is cut at a height of 60-70 cm. The peach branch located above all should have a wide angle of departure. Select a little lower two more growths located at the same angle, and cut all three branches to 10 cm into the outer buds. The rest of the shoots located on the stem and conductor, cut off immediately after the buds open.

On skeletal tree branches of the second year of life, it is important to maintain an optimal slope. Continuation growths are shortened to 60-70 cm. Strong upper and lower growths are removed, lateral growths are thinned out, and those that remain are shortened by two kidneys.

On the upper skeletal tree branch of the third year of life, two powerful second-order branches are selected and cut to 60 cm from the bifurcation of the main branch. The part of the conductor towering above the upper branch is cut off. The upper and lower sides of the skeletal branches exempt from powerful gains. Reaching 80 cm in length, annual growths are cut into two kidneys to form a fruit link. The lower shoot is pruned to 50 cm. On the branches that were shortened last year by two buds, growths growing upward are shortened by fruiting, and the lower ones by two buds. Next year, fruit links will be formed from them.

In the fourth year of life of a peach, two successful third-order branches are selected on branches of the second order of skeletal branches and shortened by one third of the original length. On the branches of the second order, the formation of fruit links is completed, and the growths on the branches of the third order are thinned out and some are cut shortly into two buds, and the rest are not touched to use them as unstable fruiting branches.

On fruit links of the first order, non-bearing parts are removed. Shortly cut last year branches of the lower growth are cut into two buds located below. In the upper growths, 7-8 groups of kidneys are removed to stimulate future fruiting.

Peach pruning in spring

Forming pruning, which we told you about, is carried out in the spring in order to give the crown a cup shape convenient for peach care and harvesting. But peach pruning also serves sanitary purposes: after spring, frozen, diseased or damaged branches can be found on the tree, which must be removed. After trimming, treat the slices with garden var.

Peach pruning in the fall

In autumn, trees are prepared for winter: they carefully cut old, diseased, dry and damaged branches when harvesting fruit, as well as those that grow inside the crown, thickening it: the tree should spend energy and nutrition only on healthy branches and shoots that next year will give a crop. Forming pruning is not done in the fall, for this there will be time in the spring.

In summer, the fruiting peach is not pruned unnecessarily.

Peach propagation

How to propagate peach

Peaches are propagated by seed, grafting and grafting. It is possible to grow root-own peaches from cuttings only in horticultural conditions, since it is very difficult for an amateur to create the conditions necessary for rooting cuttings.

Growing peach from seeds has some drawbacks: a plant grown from seed may not inherit the characteristics of the mother tree. In addition, finding good seed is not so easy: peaches are usually sold in stores and supermarkets, it is difficult to grow something from the seeds, and market peaches do not always meet the necessary requirements. It is best to take seed from the owners of healthy zoned peach trees, and then it remains only to meticulously follow the instructions developed by specialists for growing peach from seed.

There are drawbacks to the method of propagation of peach by vaccination. Firstly, it is not so easy to get the right stock, and if you grow it yourself, it will take at least a year of time. Secondly, it is necessary that there is compatibility between the tissues of the scion and the stock, otherwise they will not grow together. Thirdly, you need to carefully follow the instructions, otherwise the slightest mistake can negate all your efforts.

Propagation of peach seeds

Seed propagation of peach, in addition to the disadvantages, has undoubted advantages:

  • root seedlings grown from seed live twice as long as grafted peaches;
  • they are more resistant to droughts, cold weather, gumming and other diseases;
  • in some cases, root-growing seedlings surpass their parents in many ways.

If you are full of desire to grow a peach from a seed, we are ready to tell you how to do it right.

Find a plot for future peaches that is no closer than 3-4 meters from any mature trees, large bushes and premises. The place should be sunny, but at the same time protected from cold winter winds. Planting is best done in October or November, so that the seeds in the ground during the winter are naturally stratified.

Before planting, the seeds are not soaked, on the contrary, they are dried in the shade and, carefully opening, the kernels are taken out of them. They dig a trench on the site, fill it with fertile loose soil, into which peach seeds are planted every 25-30 cm to a depth of 5-6 cm. After planting, the seeds are closed and watered. Do not panic if you do not see the seedlings for a long time: first, a spine will develop from the seed, and only then will a sprout appear. That is why the soil in the trench is covered with soft and loose. At first, the plot is watered daily.

When the seedlings appear in the spring, they are fed a weak solution of humus, and they also treat the seedlings on the leaves with Ridomil or Tiovit preparations, also of a weak concentration.

Peach seedlings are transplanted three times. The first time a peach with an earthen lump needs to be dug up when it forms 8-10 leaves. The central root of the seedling is carefully cut 6 cm below the root neck, then the seedling is planted in its original place, after which the soil is compacted and watered around it.

The second transplant is carried out when the peaches reach a height of 90-100 cm.Do it in the spring, before the sap flow begins: seedlings are dug around the perimeter at a distance of 25-30 cm from the stems and, having taken them out together with an earthen lump, they are transplanted, changing places with each other.

The third time, peaches, when they grow up enough and get stronger, are transplanted to a permanent place.

Peach grafting

Peach - a culture with limited winter hardiness, but tolerates drought - this is one of its indisputable advantages. You can plant a varietal peach using apricot, plum, almond or quince seedlings as rootstock. The vaccination technology on any of these rootstocks is the same: you should prepare the stalk of the variety you need in advance and plant it on a one-year or two-year-old seedling of one of the listed crops.

Cuttings are harvested in late autumn before the start of frost, they are stored in a cellar or in the garden, covered with warm material, and covered with a layer of 20 cm thick wood sawdust on top. Once warmed, the cuttings are transferred to the vegetable box of the refrigerator. Inoculate in the spring, after the start of sap flow.

As a rootstock, you can use peach seedlings grown from seed, as well as wild animals of the crops listed by us, the thickness of which is at least 1.5 cm.The rootstock is cut to the desired height, it is checked that the bark is smooth and without kidneys. The methods of vaccination, depending on whether the thickness of the scion coincides with the thickness of the stock, can be as follows: kidney, cuttings or split.

Peach disease

Diseases and pests of peach can greatly complicate the life of him and you. Peach diseases lack numbers - this is one of the disadvantages of culture. Let's talk about those diseases that are most common and are the most dangerous for the plant.

Kleasterosporiosis - A harmful peach fungal disease that also affects nectarine. All terrestrial organs of the tree suffer from this disease. Light brown spots with raspberry or dirty red rims appear on the leaves, the tissue inside the spots dries, dies and falls out, leaving holes, which is why claustosporiosis is often called perforated spotting. The bark of young shoots of annual seedlings is covered with orange varnished spots, which spread out in length along the fibers, the bark cracks, and gum stands out from the cracks. Affected shoots die off, the peach dries.

Curl of leaves. This is perhaps the most dangerous disease for peach, which most often occurs in a protracted and damp spring. The leaves of the diseased tree are covered with reddish swellings, their surface becomes uneven, wavy, they swell, a white coating forms on the underside of the leaf plate, the leaves turn brown and fall off. Shoots are exposed, acquiring the appearance of a lion's tail with leaves instead of a brush at the end, bend, thicken and turn yellow. If you do not fight curly hair, the peach will begin to lag behind in development and eventually die.

Powdery mildew forms a white felt coating on the lower side of the leaves, the upper part of the shoots of the current year and the fruits. Shoots begin to lag behind in growth, are deformed, partially die off. The first symptoms of the disease appear from late April to mid-May, and the disease reaches its maximum development in the heat of mid-summer.

Moniliosis stone fruit - a common disease from which shoots and individual branches dry out, dark spots appear and grow on the peach fruits, the flesh of the fruit becomes brown, rotten peaches wrinkle and dry. A healthy fetus can become infected with moniliosis from a patient.

Peach Processing

Peach is treated for clastosporiosis for the first time with copper chloride or Meteor during the period of kidney swelling, but you need to have time to do it before they begin to open. The following treatments are carried out before flowering and after it with preparations of Horus or Topsin M in accordance with the instructions. In the spring, before flowering begins, it is necessary to cut off all affected branches and shoots by treating the sections with an eight percent solution of lime with the addition of a two percent solution of iron or copper sulfate, after which the sections must be covered with garden varnish.

If you determine that a peach has become curly, after harvesting, when leaf fall begins, treat the tree with copper chlorine or Meteor. In early spring and at the beginning of the appearance of pink buds, peach is treated with the same copper-containing preparations that can be replaced by Horus or Skor with the addition of Delan. Sick leaves and shoots are cut and burned before sporulation begins.

To protect against powdery mildew, a peach at the end of flowering is treated with Topaz, Topsin M, Skor, Vektra or Strobi preparations. As preventive measures, spring and autumn trimming of diseased shoots with their subsequent burning, collection and destruction of fallen leaves and fruits, and digging of the soil in near-stem circles are very important.

From moniliosis, the peach will have to be treated three times: with Chorus before flowering, in the pink bud phase, Topaz after flowering and Topsin two weeks after the second treatment. Damaged areas of the disease are cut off and destroyed.

In addition to the diseases described, a peach can suffer from coccomycosis, scab, fruit or gray rot, cytosporosis, milky sheen, gum detection, verticillosis, homosis, or a mushroom burn.

Peach pests

East and plum moths - butterflies of small sizes, using a peach to feed their offspring and as a place for wintering. Caterpillars of butterflies eat young shoots of peach, adult individuals feed on the bones of its fruits. Insects spend winter colds in cocoons in cracks in the peach bark or under fallen leaves in a near-stem circle.

Ways to fight. Three times the treatment of the tree with insecticides such as Chlorophos, Metaphos, Karbofos or Durban will help you get rid of the peach. The interval between sessions is 2 weeks.

Ways to fight. While there are not too many aphids, it can be removed mechanically by wiping the affected areas with a soap solution. But if you looked at the appearance of aphids, and it managed to breed, treat the peach with Karbofos, Actellik or any other similar drug. You may need to repeat the processing. The interval between sessions is 10-14 days. The last processing is carried out no later than 2-3 weeks before harvesting.

Shield damages all ground parts of the peach: a day after sucking the pest, red spots appear on the bark and fruits. Scaleflies deplete the tree, populating skeletal branches, tops of shoots and the trunk. In the tree on which scale insects settle, the bark cracks and dies, the leaves fall prematurely, growths dry out, the fruits become smaller and deformed.

Ways to fight. In the fight against scale insects, peach treatments are effective with such preparations as Actellik, Aktara, Bankol, Intavir or Mospilan in accordance with the instructions. Of the folk remedies, pepper tincture or onion water is most known, but they are ineffective.

Striped moth no less dangerous pest. Its caterpillars bite into the buds and young shoots, eating the core, causing the affected areas to dry and die. Damaged in the area of \u200b\u200bthe stalk, the fruits expire with gum. One caterpillar can damage 3 to 5 shoots.

Ways to fight. When peeling buds, treat peach with Karbofos, Chlorofos or Zolon. Recognize and cut damaged shoots in a timely manner and burn them.

Dangerous for a peach can also be weevils, flower beetles, fruit and mining moths, ticks and other harmful insects.

Peach varieties

Peach subspecies

View Peach is divided into several subspecies:

  • common peach - we gave his description at the beginning of the article;
  • peach (or almond) Potanin - a short tree, reaching a height of 2 m, with a reddish bark, large white or pink flowers and rounded fruits with an elongated bone, unsuitable for food. This kind of peach is found only in the nature of China. Since the fruits of this subspecies do not represent nutritional value, they are not grown in culture;
  • peach david - a tree growing up to a height of 3 m. The fruits of this subspecies are small, with dry pericarp and sugary sweet and sour flesh; therefore, David's peach is grown mainly for decorative purposes;
  • peach of gas grows in the wild of China. This is a medium-sized tree 3-4 m high, it looks very impressive during flowering, when it is covered with small pink and white flowers. The fruits of this peach with low taste are small, rounded, yellowish in color, with hard white flesh. This subspecies serves as the basis for the cultivation of valuable varieties of common peach, endowing them with their resistance to disease and frost resistance;
  • peach of the world - wild tall oriental subspecies, reaching a height of 8 m, with spherical fruits of low taste. For cultivation of no value;
  • nectarine very similar to a peach. Its main difference is a smooth slippery skin. The color of the nectarine can be yellow, white or yellow-red. The pulp of the fruit is juicy, yellow, not as sweet as that of a peach, but the seeds in the seeds are just sweet, they can be used as almond kernels;
  • some scientists also distinguish in a separate subspecies fig peach, or ferghana representing a tree up to 5 m high with a wide spreading crown. This subspecies has nothing to do with figs. The fruits of fig peach are rounded and oblate, with a pinned apex. The skin is slightly pubescent, dense, yellow with a greenish tint. The pulp is light yellow, fibrous, sweet and aromatic. The bone is small. The advantage of the variety is the resistance to freezing of buds and buds.

Peach varieties

Today there are many varieties of peach, the fruits of which differ in shape, size, aroma, taste, color and texture of the skin and pulp.

By type of fruit, peaches are divided into four classes:

  • real peaches are velvety fruits, the flesh of which is easily separated from the seed;
  • pavia - velvety fruits, the flesh of which does not separate from the bone;
  • nectarines - naked fruits, the flesh of which is easily separated from the bone;
  • brunion - naked fruit in which the flesh does not separate from the bone.

By the color of the fruit, peach varieties are divided into:

  • yellow (In memory of Rodionov, Sunny, Donetsk yellow, Glo Haven and Bogun);
  • reds (Suncrest, Harmony, Krasnodar);
  • green (Juicy, Grisborough).

The best varieties of nectarine include Abundant, Pink Princess, Autumn Blush, Relays, Scythian, Lola. And the best winter-hardy varieties of nectarine are considered Scythian, Krasnodar, Fodor, Lyubimets 1 and Lyubimets 2.

By maturity, peach varieties are divided into early, mid-ripening and late.

Early peach varieties

The best varieties of peach early ripening include the following:

  • Morettini - An early self-pollinating, early-growing variety of Italian breeding that comes into fruition 2-3 years after planting. The yield of this variety is up to 30 kg per tree. Medium-sized fruits weighing up to 115 g are covered with a bright yellow gently pubescent skin with a bright red blush in the form of spots and dots that occupy 60% of the fruit's surface. The flesh is yellow-creamy, fragrant, juicy, with delicate fibers. The stone of medium size is difficult to separate from the pulp;
  • Velvety - medium-sized crop variety with medium and large fruits weighing up to 140 g of a round shape, bright yellow in color with a carmine blush, almost completely covering the surface. The pubescence of the fruit is weak, suede. Very juicy flesh of golden yellow color with delicate fibers of excellent taste. The small bone is poorly separated from the pulp;
  • Kiev early - an early, winter-hardy and high-yielding variety of Ukrainian selection, undemanding to growing conditions. Round-elongated light yellow medium-sized fruits weighing up to 100 g can sometimes be covered with a bright blush. The pulp of the fruit is greenish-white, juicy, tasty;
  • Redhaven - resistant to frost and curly variety with large fruits weighing up to 150 g of orange-yellow color with red spots and specks. The pulp is yellow, tender, very fragrant. Unfortunately, trees of this variety, if agricultural technology is not followed, are affected by fungi;
  • Collins - winter-hardy and productive variety, resistant to powdery mildew and curly, with pubescent fruits weighing up to 150 g of red-yellow color, sweet taste with a pleasant acidity. This variety requires careful care - frequent top dressing, watering and timely pruning.

In addition to those described, such varieties as Forest Steppe Early, Juicy, Fluffy Early, In Memory of Rodionov, Greensboro, Novoselovsky, May Flower, Arp, Early Rivers, Patriotic, Excellent, Red Bird Kling and others are popular.

Medium peach varieties

Of the peach varieties of medium ripening most often grown:

  • Veteran - a winter-hardy high-yielding variety of Canadian breeding with rounded slightly pubescent fruits weighing up to 130 g of yellow color with a red blush covering a significant part of the surface. The flesh of the fruit is yellow, medium density, juicy, aromatic, sweet and sour. The bone is easily separated from the pulp. The variety is resistant to powdery mildew;
  • Peace ambassador - winter-hardy self-fertile productive variety with very large fruits weighing up to 220 g of yellow-carmine color with a dense yellow, juicy, fibrous pulp of a pleasant taste, which is poorly separated from the bone. Peaches of this variety ripen in mid-August;
  • nectarine Krasnodar - a variety with small rounded fruits with a barely noticeable suture, weighing up to 50 g of yellow color with a bright red blush, consisting of dots and stripes. The peel of the fruits of this variety is smooth, without pubescence. The flesh is yellow, juicy, tasty, with delicate fibers;
  • Soviet - a variety zoned for the southern regions of Ukraine with oval-blunted fruits weighing up to 170 g, slightly squeezed from the sides. The skin is medium velvety, yellow with a carmine blush. The pulp is yellow, medium fiber, very juicy and aromatic. The medium-sized stone is easily separated from the pulp;
  • friendship - winter-hardy variety derived from Chinese material, with rounded fruits weighing from 140 to 250 g with a ribbed abdominal suture. The skin is delicate and elastic, with barely noticeable pubescence, creamy yellow, with a blush of dots and strokes of red. The pulp is creamy white, sweet and very juicy, easily separated from the bone.

Also of interest are mid-season peach varieties White Swan, Golden Jubilee, Champion, Dakota, Tuscany Kling, Double Mountain, New Yield, Beautiful, Pineapple Nectarine, Salami and others.

Late peach varieties

There are not so many late peach varieties as early and mid-season ones, but for a thermophilic culture this is in the order of things. The best of the late varieties are:

  • Jaminat - a high-yielding variety with elongated fruits, slightly squeezed laterally, bright yellow with marbled red. Bright orange flesh of medium density, very juicy and sweet, with a barely noticeable sour taste. The stone is well separated from the pulp;
  • Irganai Late - frost-resistant variety with rounded fruits weighing up to 160 g. Peel with suede pubescence, bright yellow, with beautiful red spots. The pulp is yellow-orange, sweet, soft fiber. A small bone separates well from the pulp. The variety is unstable to clastosporiosis and curly;
  • Kremlin - a productive variety, zoned for the Crimea and the south of Ukraine, with rounded fruits weighing up to 200 g with yellow-orange skin and a marble carmine-burgundy blush, occupying a significant part of the surface. Peel with soft pubescence. The orange-yellow aromatic pulp of medium density and juiciness of a very pleasant taste is easily separated from a small bone;
  • Golden Moscow - a winter-hardy high-yielding variety with fruits weighing up to 180 g of a bright yellow basic color and a blurred red blush that covers most of the fruit. The pubescence of the skin is weak, velvety. The pulp is yellow, fragrant, dense, of medium juiciness, well departs from the bone;
  • Tourist - a relatively winter-hardy variety, zoned for the Crimea and southern Ukraine, with round-oval-shaped fruits weighing up to 200 g, greenish-cream color with a blurred burgundy blush, occupying up to half the surface of the fruit. The pubescence of the skin is weak, suede. The greenish-white pulp is fibrous, medium density, juicy and aromatic, sweet in taste with a slight acidity. The large bone is well separated from the pulp.

Aidinovsky oblong, Late champion, Khudistavsky late yellow, Geokchay late, Oktyabrsky and others have a good characteristic of their late peach varieties.

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The easiest way to plant a peach is to buy a seedling in a garden center or specialty store. But often the cost of a seedling is quite high, and garden centers or shops are not always located nearby and in a convenient place. But there is a way out of the situation - growing peach from seed. How to choose and prepare planting material, plant and take care, read on.

There are several advantages to growing a juicy fruit in this way, due to which the peach propagation method has become popular:

  • This method of planting is advantageous, because high-quality seedlings of fruit trees have a high price.
  • Planting material has the ability to undergo stratification, which accelerates the germination of seedlings, increases their germination, and also undergo natural selection.
  • A peach grown from seed will be as resistant to all the adverse effects of your climate as purchased seedlings that were brought from other regions.
  • The method, of course, is more laborious than planting seedlings, but it is very interesting and allows gardening enthusiasts to experiment.

By the way! A peach planted with a seed, unlike (at 6-7), yields a crop already for 3-4 years.

Video: the benefits and features of growing peach from stone

Rules for choosing planting material: which peach bones are suitable for planting

The peach, beloved by the southern sun and warmth, is not quite a familiar guest in our gardens. Therefore, not every variety can be successfully grown on its site. But in order to still succeed in growing peach from seed at home, planting material should be carefully selected.

It is best to choose the seeds of those peaches that have grown in your area. This means that they can adapt to the weather conditions of your region and give a harvest. You can find such fruits in the market or at local gardeners who are engaged in the cultivation of this delicious fruit. Thus, you will immediately see which tree can grow and what kind of taste the fruit will have. Varieties that are not adapted to the climate of the region can upset too early flowering, freezing, not ripening. It is also recommended to choose winter-hardy varieties.

Advice! You can ask gardeners in advance under what conditions peach was grown in order to adopt their experience.

When choosing between a grafted and root tree, give preference to the latter. A grafted tree can be fruitless.

  • imported fruits were grown in completely different climatic conditions, so the likelihood of successful cultivation is minimized;
  • the harvest of store fruits is removed in advance, until biological maturity, so that they can maintain their marketable appearance until they reach the counter, because of this, peach bones do not ripen, which also reduces the chances of success.

It is necessary to collect fruits at the end of summer. They should be large, healthy, ripe, there should be no signs of rot, insects, damage, mold. The bones themselves should not have cracks or traces of pests.

Video: growing peach from the stone

Methods and terms for planting peach seeds

There are several landing methods:

  • direct planting in autumn in open ground (in October-November, as a rule, with the arrival of the first frosts);
  • artificial stratification (germination) at home and planting a very young seedling in spring in open ground (for stratification in January-February, in the garden in May).

Advice! Regardless of the method chosen, it is advisable to plant many seeds at once, because their germination can be unpredictable, and sometimes some hatch only for 2 or 3 years.

Outdoor planting in autumn

The easiest and fastest way: in the autumn you just need to plant peach seeds in the open ground. This method will help the bone to undergo natural hardening (natural stratification), due to which the strongest and most stable specimens will grow.

It is necessary to plant a peach seed in loose and well-fertilized soil. Planting material needs to be deepened only slightly (by 1 centimeter, although it can be deeper). The distance between the bones of 10-15 centimeters. Then you should mulch the bed with dry coniferous needles. And in the spring the first sprouts will appear from the earth.

Video: how to grow a peach from a seed - autumn planting and further care

Stratification and seed germination at home

Unlike the first method, artificial stratification of planting material is carried out at home, which allows you to control this event. The method helps the bones to prepare for germination and improves germination. Before stratification, it is necessary to prepare the seeds: wash them, remove traces of flesh, and dry.

Stratification is carried out in cool, humid conditions, the temperature should be at least 0, and air intake is also important. The best place is a refrigerator or a basement. It is advisable to hold the event at the end of winter (January-February).

Stratification at home is as follows:

  1. Pour moist and clean sand into a small container.
  2. Deepen the planting material so that its sand covers on all sides.
  3. Cover the container with plastic wrap and make holes in it for air to enter.
  4. Place the container in the refrigerator or basement.
  5. Inspect the container periodically; if the sand dries, be sure to moisten it. Waterlogging must not be allowed, otherwise decay may begin.
  6. After about 3 months, the first sprouts will appear.

Step-by-step instructions for transplanting sprouted seeds into a pot and further growing at home:

  1. After the emergence of the sprouts, you should get the container from a cool place and transplant the seedlings into a pot (it must have holes for drainage). Soil for planting can be prepared independently: leaf or garden soil, humus, peat, sand (in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1).
  2. Then you should place the pots in a place with good lighting and a temperature of about ten degrees.
  3. After a few days, you should rearrange the pots in place with a temperature above +20 degrees.
  4. Then you should regularly water the peach in a pot when the soil dries.

Stratification and seed germination at home with seed extraction

The method is a faster option for obtaining seedlings than the first two. Its meaning lies in breaking the bone and removing the core.

To extract and germinate seeds in this way can be as follows:


Peach seedlings care before planting in a permanent place

Proper seedling care is an essential element in growing peach from seed. Therefore, the following nuances should be taken into account:

  • Regular watering - it is important to provide seedlings with the necessary moisture, but it is also not worth waterlogging the soil.
  • Good lighting - young plants should receive enough sunlight. If this is not possible, use phytolamps.
  • The topsoil in the pot should be loosened regularly.

Rules for planting a young seedling of peach, planted with a stone, in a permanent place in the open ground

When growing a seedling in the first way (that is, when a peach is directly planted with a seed in open ground in the fall), young seedlings can be planted and transplanted to a permanent place in about a year. And when growing peach seedlings from seed at home in a pot, they should be transplanted into the open ground in the spring.

Before planting, you should determine the place of growth of the future tree. The place should be sunny (southern or southeastern part of the site), well-lit. The soil must be nutritious and loose. It is very important that the tree is protected from drafts and cold winds. You should not choose a site with heavy, clay soils and places with moisture congestion for planting a peach.

Between young trees there should be a distance of about 3.5 meters. Buildings and other plants capable of shading should also be at the same distance from the peach tree.

Video: planting a peach with a bone at home and planting it in the open ground

Care for a peach (planted seed) after planting it in open ground

After planting a peach with a seed and during further cultivation, the young tree needs special care. Therefore, the first two or three years of growing need to be as attentive as possible to the peach tree.

Trees need to be regularly watered, a lack of moisture (especially in sultry money) and an oversupply, stagnation of water cannot be tolerated. Besides watering, it’s important protect peach trees from diseases and pests.About , how to do it in the spring, read. Timely top dressing and trimming are also important.

Before winter cold, the trunk circle should be abundantly mulled with spruce branches or fallen leaves. It is necessary to cover the tree, this can be done with burlap. More information on peach care in the fallYou can find in.

Growing a peach from a seed at home is not an easy task. But if you do everything right and take care of the seedling in time, you can get a beautiful tree with delicious fruits. And the fruits appear, as a rule, in three to four years.

Video: from sowing peach seeds to the first harvest - the full cultivation cycle

In contact with

Among beginning gardeners, there is an opinion that it is quite difficult to grow a fruit tree from a seed and this is exclusively done by breeders. However, this opinion is a misconception, since almost any fruit tree can be obtained from seed and peach is no exception. Since this process is long and has its own nuances, it is worthwhile to dwell in more detail on how to grow a peach from seed at home so that there are fruits, as well as on the methods of cultivation.

Advantages and disadvantages of growing peach from stone

Before embarking on the cultivation of peach, it is worthwhile to familiarize yourself with the pros and cons of obtaining seedlings from the seed. The positive points include:

  1. When cultivated from seed, you can get the right amount of seedlings.
  2. Getting seedlings in this way is cheaper than buying them.
  3. Peaches grown from seed are excellent grafting material.
  4. If you tried peach, you could appreciate its taste.

Of the minuses it is worth highlighting:

  1. To get a tree, the fruits from which will have the same taste as on the mother, is possible only if the planting material was taken from a variety: hybrids do not retain their original qualities.
  2. Sometimes it is difficult to find the right material, because the fruit must be ripe.
  3. The procedure is lengthy and sometimes laborious.

Peach Variety Selection

On your site, regionalized varieties, that is, those that grow in the local climate, are best taken root. When choosing a peach variety, attention is paid to the following characteristics:

  • winter hardiness. If the seedling is supposed to be planted in unprotected soil, preference should be given to winter-hardy and unpretentious varieties;
  • self-pollination. Many peach varieties are self-pollinated. However, for better fruiting, it is recommended to plant several different varieties nearby;
  • early ripening. In order for the crop to bear fruit successfully, it is better to plant early varieties.

Early ripening varieties include Winner, Early Rivers, Early Mignon. Winter is well tolerated by Kiev early, Amsden, and such as Nectarine Krasnodar, Nectarine white, Nobles are characterized by high productivity.

Preparing seeds for planting

If there is a desire to plant a peach seed, then there is no need to rush to eat the fruit itself: it must mature well. The pulp should be soft, and cracks should form on the skin.

A bone is extracted from the selected fetus, washed, and dried naturally.

Methods for germinating peach seeds

Consider how to sprout a peach kernel in different ways.

Cold way

If winter is nearing, it is better to plant the bones at the end of this period, but for now they can be laid for a long stratification. Planting material is placed in a box with moistened sand, deepening them by 3-4 cm. The box is covered with foil and transferred to the refrigerator on the lower shelf for 2-3 months, while the sand is periodically moistened. So artificially created natural environmental conditions. As a result, a hardened sprout can be obtained from the bone.

Warm way

Under the warm method, some gardeners mean the cultivation of peach exclusively at home, i.e. in a pot. The tree grows heat-loving and absolutely not adapted to grow on the garden plot. If it is still planted in unprotected soil, then it is likely that it will disappear. However, there is another variant of the warm method, which involves rapid stratification (bones are placed on the top shelf of the refrigerator for a week).

Then it is recommended to open the bones, remove the nucleoli and place them in the Epin solution for several hours. After such preparation, the seeds are sown in light and nutritious soil, deepened by 5-8 cm. To create an optimal microclimate, the container is covered with polyethylene and transferred to a warm and bright place. In this case, the seed germinates within four months. When shoots appear, the film is removed.

Quick way

If the seed was obtained in early June, then it is possible to grow a peach seedling by autumn. In this case, you need to open the bones and remove the kernels, and then immerse them in warm water for 2-3 days. Water is changed with a frequency of 3-4 hours, after which they are sown in a prepared container to a depth of 4-5 cm. The subsequent steps are similar to the previous method.

Planting and growing peach from seed at home

Many who want to get a peach from a seed simply dig them in the autumn in the garden, hoping that shoots will appear in the spring. However, in order not to be lost in conjecture and fully observe the growth process of the crop in question, it is necessary to consider the entire step-by-step procedure of how to grow a peach from a seed at home so that there are fruits.

When to sow

Peach seedlings are not recommended to be kept at home for a long time. This is explained by the fact that the air in the house stagnates, it can be dry or wet, which can lead to the development of a black leg, as well as the appearance of spider mites on the leaves. Sometimes it happens that the bones simply rot.

Sowing must be carried out with the onset of warm weather, when a lot of sunlight enters through the windows and the windows often open. The sooner the young peaches are on the site, the faster they adapt to environmental conditions and prepare for the cold.

It is generally accepted that the optimal timing for sowing peach seeds is 1-1.5 months before the heat arrives. Additionally add another 2 weeks for germination. For each region, landing dates will be slightly different:

  • Siberia - in April;
  • Moscow and the region - in March-April;
  • south of Russia - February-March.

Soil preparation

For planting peach bones, universal soil from the store will fit perfectly. Also, the soil mixture can be prepared independently. To do this, use such components as earth from the garden, humus and baking powder (sand, perlite and the like) in a ratio of 1: 1: 0.5. Fungi and larvae of various pests can be found in store and own soil. Therefore, the substrate must first be disinfected by heating in the oven or on the oven. You need to do the procedure a week before sowing.

How to sow a seed

Peach bones can be planted in any container of suitable size: in pots, glasses, cut-off bottles with a volume of 200-300 ml. In the container, it is necessary to make holes in the bottom for drainage. After that, the container is filled with soil substrate and moistened. The bones are placed in a pot, burrowing them no more than 1 cm. Gardeners with experience note that when the seeds are deep planted, the seed does not even germinate.

Crops are covered with polyethylene and transferred to a warm place with a temperature of about + 25 ° C, periodically removing the film for ventilation. After this, it remains only to wait for the emergence of seedlings.

How to sow a seed

Considering in a step-by-step instruction how to plant a peach from a stone, it is worth mentioning the option with a seed. This method is not easy, since it is quite problematic to open the bone carefully and not damage the seed. Often, pliers, knives and other tools are used for these purposes. However, it is best to use a vise: the fingers will remain intact and the nucleoli intact. To do this, clamp the bone and slowly twist it in a vice until it opens.

After removing the seed, you can immediately plant or sprout on a damp cloth. Based on the experience of avid gardeners, seedlings from stratified bones, as well as from nucleoli, appear after 2 weeks.

You can learn more about planting a peach with a bone from the video.

How to care for seedlings

For normal development, seedlings need to provide a comfortable environment. The pot should be placed in a well-lit and warm place. Also important is the temperature regime: during the day it should be about + 23-30 ° С, at night + 18-20 ° С.

Therefore, it is necessary to mark the side of the container that faces the light and always maintain this position. When the seedling will be planted in open ground, the plant with the marked side should be located to the south.

Care comes down to the following activities:

  • watering is done as the soil dries;
  • feed the culture once every 10 days with the complex preparation Fertika Lux;
  • monitor the condition of the plant, so that in case of pests and ailments in time to detect them.

Planting and care of seedlings

A seat for peach seedlings is prepared from autumn or spring, as soon as the soil warms up. The site should be selected sunny without possible flooding. In winter, the place should have sufficient snow cover, i.e., the ground should not be bare.

To provide the young tree with the necessary nutrition on the surface of the selected area, organic fertilizers are scattered at the rate of a humus bucket and 1 tbsp. ash per 1 m². In the absence of ash, superphosphate 20 g per m² can be used, as well as potassium sulfate 15 g / m².

Transplanting a seedling into the soil is as follows:


Further care activities include controlling soil moisture, loosening and removing weeds. To protect the peach tree for the winter, they build a shelter from brushwood and agrofibre or other materials. After winter, not all trees may wake up. Those that remain can be transplanted to a place of constant growth.

Having familiarized yourself with how to grow a peach from a seed at home, so that in the future there are fruits, as well as with the methods of planting this crop, every novice gardener will be able to repeat the described actions. A peach from a seed develops rather quickly and enters fruiting early. Living in the southern regions, planting can be done directly into the ground, bypassing the stages of stratification and cultivation on the windowsill. There is nothing complicated in this process. The main thing is desire, attention, accuracy and patience.

Everyone loves sweet and juicy peach fruits: both adults and children. Fruits contain a large number of useful vitamins and minerals. The peach tree is very whimsical to grow. It is quite demanding on sunlight and heat, so it can be grown only in the southern regions, where there are no cold frosty winters. But thanks to modern selection, varieties were obtained that can be grown in central Russia. Such varieties are frost resistant.

Many gardeners hesitate to plant a peach tree in their infield. But you can grow a peach from a seed at home. This can be done both in spring and autumn. It is absolutely not difficult to grow a tree, the main thing is to adhere to certain rules.

Selection of planting material

Planting a tree in this way has one big advantage over planting seedlings. The stone at the initial stage undergoes natural hardening and the process of natural selection. What can not be said about those seedlings that were grown in special nurseries.

Of great importance is the fact that when germinating seeds you can be sure of the taste characteristics of ripe fruit. Before you start growing peach from seed, you need to choose the right planting material.

How to choose the right material for planting:

  • Planting a peach from a seed can be successful only if the fruits were not purchased. As a rule, immature fruits are sold in stores, from which it is difficult to obtain sprouts.
  • Trees grown in this way, although they retain a large share of the taste characteristics of the mother tree, it is still better to choose fruits grown on root, rather than grafted specimens.
  • It is better to use seeds obtained from the autumn harvest. It is important that they show no signs of spoilage or rot.
  • Use seeds to plant a peach, preferably those fruits that were brought from places close to the place of future planting.

How to grow a plant in spring?

When asked if it is possible to grow a peach tree in spring, you can definitely answer what you can. There are several common ways to plant a peach seed.

  1. 1. Stratification.

Peach bones can be grown using stratification. It is used if there is not a lot of planting material and the process needs to be taken under control. To do this, you need a room pot.

  • Planting material must be thoroughly cleaned of pulp to prevent rot.
  • Stratify planting material in a small container. It must be filled with wet sand and sawdust.
  • After the planted seeds begin to burst and green sprouts begin to appear from them, they must be planted in a pot filled with fertile soil. To prepare it, you need to take one part of peat and one part of humus.
  • Some time after planting, the root system begins to form.
  • Watering the emerged sprouts is necessary as the soil dries. But do not allow excess moisture in the pot. Also, the pot must be rearranged in a sunny place so that the sprouts develop more actively.
  1. 2. Planting peach seeds in a container.

This method has slight differences from stratification in that it takes less time:

  • Planting material must be removed from the ripe fruit and thoroughly washed from the pulp in order to prevent the appearance of rot.
  • Then the seeds need to be opened and seeds extracted from them. Hard shells can be cracked with a hammer. But you need to do this very carefully so as not to damage the soft seed.
  • Shredded peach seeds should be placed in warm water for two to three days. Every day, the water where the seeds are located must be changed to fresh.
  • On the third day, the seeds will swell and greatly increase in size. This is the first sign that they need to be planted in the ground.
  • Each seed is planted in a separate container to a depth of not more than 10 cm.
  • Then you need to water the soil and cover the container with a film or plastic bag.
  • Every day, the film needs to be removed for a while to ventilate, otherwise the soil will begin to mold.
  • At the bottom of the container, you need to make a small hole so that the water does not stagnate and fungus does not appear.

Autumn chores

The question of how to grow a peach is of interest to many gardeners. It is possible to grow seedlings in the autumn period of time. There is only one common way.

How to germinate a peach kernel? Bones must be washed and planted in loose, moist soil. They do not need to be buried deep in the ground, just sprinkle a little. You can also cover the soil with twigs and dry needles so that young shoots are not damaged by birds and animals. Thanks to this method, the bones will undergo the natural process of natural hardening and will be less susceptible to the negative effects of winter frosts.

How to grow nectarine?

In addition to peach, you can grow nectarine from seed at home. For this, only planting material and drainage are needed. Nectarine is the same peach, but obtained as a result of a mutation. In addition, there is a slight difference in the composition of these two fruits. Firstly, nectarine contains many more such useful trace elements as organic acids, various compounds of phosphorus, potassium, iron, as well as fructose and glucose.

How to grow nectarine:

  • It is necessary to take ripe nectarine. It should not be damaged and there should be no spots of rot on it. It is best to choose fruits of later varieties, since in this case the likelihood that the young tree will retain the characteristics of the mother is much higher.
  • Then you need to separate the material for planting from the pulp. If this is not done, then it will begin to rot.
  • After the planting material has been washed, it must be dried for several hours.
  • Bones cleaned from pulp should be filled with water and left for four to six days. Every day you need to change the water to fresh.
  • After this period, the seeds must be planted in a container filled with sand and sawdust.
  • Small holes must be made in the container so that excess water flows out. Excessive soil moisture can cause seeds to mold or rot.
  • Then the container is placed in a small hole dug in the soil.
  • After this, the soil must be watered, and then covered with sawdust and a layer of grass.
  • The layer of sawdust and grass should be at least 10 cm.

Planting a peach from a stone and caring for it will not be difficult.

  • When the sprouts that have just sprouted grow up a bit, they need to ensure proper care. First of all, they need a lot of sunlight, therefore, if the sprouts are in the pot at home, then it needs to be rearranged in a sunny place.
  • Soil needs to be constantly watered and weed. It is also important to ensure that the soil is not waterlogged.
  • During dormancy, young seedlings should be kept at rest. They must be placed in a cool room, where the temperature will be from +2 to +4 degrees.
  • When the flowering period begins in spring, the container with the tree needs to be transferred to a warm room, where the temperature will be from +10 to +15 degrees.
  • After some time, the container must be moved to a room where the temperature will be from +18 to + 25 degrees.
  • In the dormant period, as well as in the period of fruit ripening, seedlings do not need abundant watering. It is only necessary to moisten the soil around them a little.
  • Transplant into another container seedlings immediately before the flowering period begins. This should be done in early spring. The soil in the container should be prepared from two parts of leafy soil, one part of turf and one part of peat.
  • Mineral and organic fertilizers are applied twice a month. You need to start feeding in March. The last top dressing is introduced in August.
  • Every year, the peach tree needs pruning. It can be carried out both in spring and autumn. You can also trim in the summer, depending on the purpose of the crop. Spring pruning is done to form the crown. Summer pruning is needed in order to remove dry branches that are difficult to replace in spring. Autumn pruning of a peach tree is necessary in order to prepare it for winter, pruning all dry and diseased branches in order to prevent the spread of various diseases next year.

In order for the planting of a peach tree from a stone to be successful, it is necessary to adhere to some simple rules. Firstly, more attention needs to be paid to the choice of planting material. It is best to use fruits grown in orchards rather than those purchased in a store. As a rule, supermarkets sell imported varieties that cannot be grown in Russia. Even if the seeds sprout, the tree will turn out to be an empty flower and will be suitable only for decoration. In addition to choosing planting material, it is important not to forget about caring for the seedling. First of all, it is necessary to responsibly approach the formation of the crown.