How to properly lay laminate flooring step by step instructions. Effective layouts for laminate flooring

How to make the floor reliable, beautiful, easy to install and at the same time inexpensive? These seemingly incompatible qualities are combined in the laminate. This is why this flooring is being used more and more. Nevertheless, in order for the floor to serve for a long time, it is simply necessary to know the intricacies of the technology. For example, before laying the laminate, you need to check how even the base is. The maximum permissible deviation is no more than 1-2 mm per meter of surface. Only under this condition will it lie tightly, will not bend and creak. If the differences are greater, the lock may even break or crack the board.

If the base has irregularities that exceed the permissible dimensions, it must be leveled. For cement floors, everything is simple - a leveling screed is poured. They begin to lay the laminate after the solution has gained at least 50% strength.

If an old wooden floor is used as a base, it must be removed according to technology, then a full-fledged cement floor should be made, with all the necessary layers (backfill, hydro and thermal insulation, a reinforcing belt and a screed). You can install a heating system in this floor, and lay the floor covering on the warm floor. Only in this case it is necessary to use special types of laminate that tolerate heat well. The cost of such a floor is high, and it takes a lot of time to install it. Therefore, this is not always done. If the logs and boards are not damaged, you can level the wooden floor with plywood, and then lay the laminate on it.

When leveling a wooden floor, all strongly protruding fragments are cut off with a plane or with the help of scraping, the cracks are sealed with putty. Plywood sheets are laid on the prepared old wooden floor (it is used more often, although you can put any sheet material with a flat surface). They are fastened to the floor with self-tapping screws: along the perimeter after 15 cm, in the middle in a checkerboard pattern.

The joints of the sheets are shifted - they should not match (see the photo below). This way the load is transferred more evenly. One more thing - leave some gaps between the sheets - they should not fit close to each other. Wood changes dimensions depending on humidity and temperature. And these gaps will give the necessary freedom to avoid "humps" and distortions.

Laying plywood on a wooden floor under laminate flooring is a common way to prepare the substrate during renovations. If the wood has not been damaged, and the plywood is laid flat, does not "play" and does not bend, such a base will last for years

Laminate underlay

On an even and clean surface, the substrate is first laid. It hides those irregularities of 1-2 mm that are permissible and makes the floor less "noisy". It also serves to cushion and better redistribute the load.

The substrate is made of several types:

• Cork. Made from cork chips. It has good thermal insulation properties and absorbs sounds. Disadvantages: afraid of moisture and does not like heating. Therefore, the area of \u200b\u200bits application is rooms without underfloor heating, with normal importance and minimal risk of "flood". That is, these are living rooms. Cork underlayment under the laminate is used infrequently: expensive. If it is put, then it is more under the parquet board - to preserve the floor covering.

  

  Cork is the best, but also the most expensive type of backing. Foil - a little cheaper, and its plus - it is suitable for heated floors

• Cellulose-based bituminous cork. Small fragments of cork are poured on the bitumen-impregnated cellulose layer. This underlay is a little cheaper than cork, but its main advantage is that it can be used for laying over a warm floor system.
• Made of polyethylene foam. It tolerates high humidity well, does not conduct heat well, is chemically neutral, drain to bacteria, easy to use (produced in the form of rolls), has a low price. Disadvantages: sensitive to ultraviolet radiation, quickly loses its shape, has a short service life, poorly "dampens" sounds. Therefore, this substrate is used for a cheap laminate: their service life is comparable.

  

• Made of expanded polystyrene. It has a rather high density, which is why it smoothes out irregularities, keeps its shape well, has good heat-insulating properties, drowns out sounds. Disadvantage: Cannot be used to lay laminate flooring on warm floors. The price is between cork and polyethylene, it is the most acceptable and is used most often. Produced more often in the form of plates, sometimes in rolls.
• Polyurethane on foil. This type of underlayment can also be used for laying under a laminate on a warm floor. Has the best features above, as well as the best prices. But if you are going to lay an expensive laminate, then this is a justified expense: the life of this type of flooring largely depends on the quality of the substrate.

  

  Expanded polystyrene - average quality and price

How to lay the underlay

The substrate for the laminate is rolled out (laid out) along the wall from which the installation will begin. In length, it should cover the entire floor from wall to wall. The lines of the joints are tightly combined, for convenience they are glued with tape. Sometimes the panels are fixed with staples from a construction stapler. It's faster, but the staples are not very good to use - they can rub against the boards and make an unpleasant sound. The next layer is spread as needed - it is not necessary to cover the entire floor at once: it is better not to walk on the substrate.

Laying schemes

In which direction to lay the laminate with your own hands? There are no strict rules, but there are guidelines. To make the joints along the boards less visible, the direction of the light should be along the board. It turns out beautifully if the covering is laid at an angle. But this method is more complicated and there is more waste. You can also lay across the world - this is also practiced, and does not threaten anything except more visual seams.

Laying the laminate relative to the window: layout of the elements

The main rule that must be observed when laying laminate is the offset of the seams. The minimum transverse seam should be at a distance of 40 cm from the other. So the durability of the flooring will be greater: the boards will not disperse under load.

The minimum distance between seams in adjacent rows is 40 cm

The layout of the laminate should be designed with this rule in mind. The easiest one for independent execution is offset by half of the board. Then every odd row starts with a whole, and every even row starts with a half (or vice versa).

If the length of one element exceeds 1.2 m, then the second row can be shifted by 1/3, the third by 2/3 of the length (as in the photo above). It turns out a kind of "ladder". In some types of (expensive) laminate, the minimum offset of the rows is much less - maybe 15 cm. This is indicated on the packaging or in the accompanying instructions.

You can lay the laminate with a "ladder", only you need to observe the minimum allowable displacement of the seam. On the right is a stacking scheme with a long board length and low offset

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How to lay laminate flooring with your own hands: step by step instructions

The laying technology is the same: there are only some peculiarities when connecting elements, depending on the locks. The procedure will be as follows:

If the geometry of the room is correct, no problem. If there are distortions, you will have to trim. Questions may arise when finishing the threshold: the board near the jambs is not cut evenly, but in an arc, while maintaining a gap of 10-15 mm. Why in an arc? So there will be no hole under the door trim of any shape.

Laminate laying methods: two locks - two methods (video instructions)

The technology used to lay laminate flooring depends on which of the locks on your flooring. They are made of two types - "click" (Click) and "lock" (Lock). You will not get confused, because the system is written on the packaging of each pack, and many have pictograms that explain the principle of stacking.

Hammerless method - Click lock

When using "click" locks, it is more convenient to collect the planks one by one. The system is named so because of the characteristic click that is heard when the spike enters the groove. With such a system, the side locks are first connected, then the longitudinal ones. It happens like this:

How to lay a laminate with a click lock, see the video.

How to Deck with a Lock "Lock"

Here the lock must be inserted from the side and the assembly method is different. You will need a piece of laminate with a thorn and a light hammer (rubber mallet). The boards are laid out on the floor, adjusted so that they lie exactly one relative to the other. Move it so that the spike is close to the groove, insert a piece of laminate on the other side and tap it with a hammer, achieving a connection.

How to lay down laminate with the "lock" system

The method is also simple, but requires caution: you can hit too hard with a hammer and break the lock. Then you have to use a different element.

With this method, it is more convenient to lay the laminate, first collecting individual rows, and then connecting them. This is shown schematically in the photo below.

So it is more convenient to lay the laminate with your own hands with the "lock" system

For more information on this method, see the video. There is no sound row, but everything is clear.

The methods described above for laying the laminate can be made almost airtight, in any case, the amount of water that can get into the inter-joint space can be significantly reduced. For this, use a special glue. They are coated with thorns of the laid boards. The composition retains its elasticity for 10 minutes, therefore, glue is applied immediately before installation.

The disadvantage of this technology is that the coating becomes almost monolithic. If you need to replace one or more boards, this will not work.

How to cut laminate flooring straight

You can cut laminate boards:

• jigsaw (most convenient);
• hacksaw;
• hand circular saw.

To prevent burrs from forming on the front surface when sawing, it should lie “face” up. In order for the cut to be even, guides are used - rulers (strips) made of metal or wood. When using a hacksaw, the ruler should not allow you to "climb" on the desired half.

When cutting across, it is more convenient to use squares. It is pressed against the long side, the second serves as a guide.

The installation of laminate flooring described below is a largely standardized process.

The installation work for some types of product may differ slightly: atypical requirements must be described in the package inserts by the material manufacturer.

Self-laying laminate flooring: where to start

Before starting work, decide whether you have all the necessary tools for installing the laminate. When laying laminate flooring, especially if you are doing such work for the first time, use only a professional tool.

Figure 1 - 'Structure' of the laminated panel: 1 - protective laminating high-strength melamine / acrylic resin film; 2 - artificial paper / foil imitating a wooden structure; 3 - a film that increases moisture resistance; 4 - high-density wood board (fiberboard), the main bearing layer; 5 - waterproof paper

Laminate laying tool:

1. construction tape (the required length of the tape is determined by the length of the room, in most cases a 5-meter tape will be enough);
2. jigsaw with a set of saws (sawing laminate boards can be done with other tools, however, perfectly smooth cutting and fitting are possible only when using a jigsaw; a device with a power of up to 500 W will be enough for laying laminate in an apartment);
3. metal construction square (up to 35 cm long);
4. a pencil for marking the floor;
5. a hammer (you can also use a rubber mallet up to 0.6 kg in weight, this tool is used to tamp laminate boards, as well as for laying boards in a doorway);
6. a hacksaw with fine teeth (used for sawing a door frame);
7. tamping block (for tamping panels, special blocks of the corresponding shape have been created, due to which it is possible to protect the boards from deformation);
8. spacer wedges (installed between the lamellas and the walls of the room along the entire perimeter of the room);
9. bracket for screed panels.

In addition to the laminate installation tool, you will need a baseboard installation tool:

• drill / hammer (used for wood / concrete surfaces, respectively);
• angle cutter / corner fixtures (if wooden skirting boards or plastic skirting boards are used, respectively).

The cost of the instrument (subject to the purchase of each component of the list) is in the region of $ 150-200.

You can also purchase a DIY laminate flooring kit at most home improvement stores.

Mainly, a mounting kit (e.g. Krono Original, Poland) includes:

1. spacer wedges (sets contain from 20 to 40 pcs.);
2. metal bracket;
3. tamping block;
4. rubber spatula.

Photo 1 - Mounting kit Krono Original, Poland

Laminate laying rules: preparatory stage

Laying laminate flooring on different types of surfaces requires different preparatory work. A solid and level base is half the success and a guarantee of a long service life of a new coating.

On concrete

If you are installing your laminate on a screed made less than a month ago, it is best to wait. According to professionals, the screed must be allowed to stand for at least 45 days before any coating is applied. In another case, perspiration may form on the concrete surface, and moisture under the laminate boards can lead to rotting of the coating, its deterioration and the formation of fungus. A delay is also necessary when laying laminate on a warm floor. On a concrete base, as in most other cases, it is necessary to cover a special substrate, but more on that later.

On a wooden floor

The old floor covering may be quite suitable and there is no need to remove it if the height of the ceilings allows such a layering on the floor. The wooden floor must be inspected for irregularities (use a building level to determine the horizontal surface of the room floor), "walking" boards must be fixed by sinking the nail heads 2-3 mm deep into the wood, the cracks must be putty. Floor boards are also sanded before installing the laminate.

In most cases, installation is carried out not on a plank floor, but on plywood, leveling the floor surface (it is not recommended to lay laminate on fiberboard, since the laminate itself is unpretentious to the base surface, but fiberboard reacts to the slightest change in temperature or humidity level in room). On an uneven floor, if it is not possible to remove it, it is better to lay the laminate on a chipboard.

On linoleum

On old linoleum, laminate is not just possible, but must be laid if you want to achieve additional sound insulation. In this case, the surface of linoleum should fit snugly to the floor, not have any swelling, tears and other visible damage to the canvas. Laminate flooring cannot be laid on linoleum if it is too soft: Laminate panels on such a flimsy base can easily sag.

On parquet

It is recommended to lay laminate on a parquet board only if the previous surface does not cause any suspicion: the parquet is laid flat, does not creak, does not sag, and the boards do not stagger. Laminate can be laid on old parquet using not a standard backing (at least 2-3 mm thick), but a backing of at least 5 mm.

In some cases, laminate flooring is not laid on the floor, but on the walls or ceiling. Laminate, in principle, is not intended for cladding these surfaces, but our craftsmen manage to adapt it as they please.

On lags

You can lay the laminate on the logs by making a wooden mesh as in the photo below. A layer of vapor and waterproofing under such a system is required. Sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are then laid on the logs, and a laminate is laid on it.

Photo 2 - Laying the laminate on the logs. Mesh making

This is a good option, if necessary, to lay the laminate on the old floor without removing it. Logs and mesh underlays will help level the floor and create the perfect base for new flooring.

Photo 3 - Laying the laminate on the joists. Plywood cladding

Features of laying laminate on walls or ceilings

Consider some of the features of laying laminate on walls or ceilings:

• the need for additional leveling of the walls (you need to use OSB boards, since they are not susceptible to temperature and moisture changes, and also, unlike plywood, do not exfoliate);
• the direction of laying the laminate on the floor and on the walls must coincide (if only the walls or only the ceiling are covered with the laminate, the direction of laying should be parallel to the direction of natural lighting of the room);
• the laminate on the walls or ceiling is fixed in a "floating" way - by placing the boards in a specially mounted frame.

IMPORTANT!Laminate flooring must not be glued, because a covering made of natural materials must be able to expand / contract when the air temperature / humidity level in the room changes.

For expert advice on fixing laminate to walls / ceilings, see. VIDEO

Laying underlayment under the laminate

We have already said above that regardless of the type of floor surface, the floor must be covered with a special underlay before laying the laminate.

The minimum required for laying the laminate is a 2 mm underlay. Some types of substrates can be up to 12 mm thick!

What are the substrates:

• foamed polyethylene foam (from 2 mm in thickness, from $ 0.35 per m²);

Polyethylene foam is a material with high chemical resistance, has antistatic properties, as well as sound insulation and sound absorption, polyethylene foam does not allow moisture to pass through, but does not isolate the floor from air exchange. Using polyethylene foam will reduce heat transfer through the floor. This material is easy to cut and lay. However, this substrate is not durable, therefore, with prolonged use, it cakes, becoming almost twice thinner. The deformation process negatively affects other qualities of the material.

• foamed polystyrene ("isoise", from 3 mm in thickness, from $ 0.45 per m²);

This type of substrate can be called the most popular, because it has all the positive qualities of polyethylene foam, but does not wear out so quickly. "Izoshum" is a denser and more reliable material.

• cork backing (from 1.85 mm, from $ 3 per m², sold in packs of 10 m²);

The main advantage of this material is its environmental friendliness. Cork is in many ways superior to polyethylene foam and polystyrene. Unlike other materials, cork substrate is produced not only in rolls, but also in the form of slabs, which allows it to be laid in any configuration with less waste of the product.

The cork backing can be used not only for laminate but also for any other type of flooring. It perfectly tolerates moisture and temperature extremes.

• bitumen-cork substrate (from 2 mm, $ 3.2 / m² (sold in a package of 10 m²)).

It is a two-layer substrate: the sheets of material are composed of cellulose and bitumen. The latter has a sprinkling in the form of cork chips (no more than 2-3 mm). The substrate on the curved floor is laid with a bitumen-cork layer down, and the sheets are fastened together with mounting tape. A bituminous cork backing provides internal floor ventilation.

Producers: Estonia, Portugal, Ukraine, Russia.

Laying methods for laminate

Let's decide on the direction of laying the laminate.

IMPORTANT! The pattern and structure of the laminate should be in harmony with the shape and lighting of the room. Laying the laminate across the direction of incidence of light is also possible, although undesirable due to visual deformation of the room.

Direct installation of laminate

Correct laying in this case is laying from the door parallel to the direction of incidence of the rays of light. Cutting consumption will be about 4-7%. The recommendations of experts regarding this installation are not unreasonable: the light falling on the floor from the window will not create shadows at the seams between the laminate boards, and so the floor surface will seem perfectly flat. The visual integrity of the surface is possible only if the windows in the room are located along one of the walls.

Laying the laminate across the line of light distorts the room, visually "pulling" it in the direction of installation. This property can play into the hands when renovating in a narrow corridor or in a hallway. In this case, however, more material will be used to trim.

Photo 4 - ‘Direct’ installation of laminate in the interior

Laying laminate diagonally

Diagonal installation visually expands the room as well. This styling technique is considered the most expensive and difficult. With your own hands, without prior experience in such work, it will be extremely problematic to do this. Cutting material consumption is about 15%! This laminate laying scheme is not suitable for rooms cluttered with furniture or covered with carpets - this is how the main idea is lost: to show the decorativeness of the floor.

Photo 5 - Laying laminate diagonally in the interior

Laying laminate in squares / herringbone

This method also applies to decorative. This type of laminate installation is possible only if the laminate you have selected has a special type of locks.

If the previous two types of laminate laying can be done with most standard models, then you can lay out the “herringbone” only by finding a characteristic product in the manufacturer's catalog.

This type of laminate is available, for example, in the Noblesse Quick Step collection. The advantage of this collection is that the planks presented in it are identical in size to the dimensions of block parquet: 45.15 * 9.03 * 0.8 cm. Thanks to the unique design, small planks can be joined at an angle of 90 °. Quick Step's Noblesse collection is a simple yet ingenious solution that allows you to lay your laminate flooring in fifty different ways!

Photo 6 - Laying laminate ‘herringbone’

IMPORTANT!In the collections of many famous manufacturers of laminate flooring, you can find panels not only "imitation wood", but also the so-called art panels that imitate any given pattern. These include, for example, the German factory laminate Versale (Versailles).

• We check the quality and quantity of purchased material

Before you start laying the laminate, you should check the quality of the purchase, and the calculation of the required number of laminated panels should be preliminary carried out taking into account the consumption of material for cutting (the percentage of scrap is indicated above). The installation of the floor must also be done during daylight hours: so imperfections not only in your work, but also in the material itself, will be immediately noticeable.

• "Acclimatization" of the purchased laminate

Another important preparatory step is to let the laminate sit in the room for about two days. In this case, the air temperature must be at least 17 ° C. You do not need to unpack the acclimatization bags. If the difference in the level of humidity / temperature in the room and the warehouse storage conditions of the laminate is significant, this period should be extended to three to four days.

• Installation only in dry rooms with normalized air humidity

Laminate flooring must not be installed if the panels come into direct contact with water (splashing water, for example). Water can penetrate the base of inexpensive laminate through the edges and cause permanent damage. This is one of the reasons why laminate flooring should not be installed in rooms with a constant high level of humidity - in saunas, small bathrooms, etc.

• Checking the condition of the base

The maximum difference in height on the base of the floor should be no more than 3 mm per 1 m of length. The floor must be dry and sound.

• Vapor barrier

Before laying the laminate, a vapor barrier is laid on the floor. Above, we talked about what options for the substrate exist and what materials can be used in its manufacture. The film is laid with an overlap of 30 cm (cork plates are laid end-to-end) and fastened with tape. Conventionally, the preparation for laying the laminate is coming to an end on the underlay flooring: you can proceed with the installation.

• Thermal seams and distance to the wall

The basis of laminated panels is fiberboard (fiberboard), which, like natural wood, is subject to swelling or shrinkage due to climatic changes. Therefore, the laminate is not laid end-to-end with the wall, but a small gap is left to each of the walls. These gaps are also called "thermal seams".

Laying errors of laminate flooring usually appear by summer / fall. after the dry period, the panels gain moisture and, not having sufficient area for natural expansion, distort. As a result, the coating is re-laid. The size of the thermal joint is largely determined by the type of laminate and its characteristics, as well as the surface area of \u200b\u200bthe room. On average, the width of the gap from the wall should be at least 8 mm. If the laminate is laid over large areas (not in an apartment, but, say, in an office space), the size of the gap is significantly increased.

Method for calculating the size of the gap: 1 m floor width \u003d 1.5 mm thermal joint around the perimeter of the room.

Calculation examples: with a room width of 5 m, there should be at least 5 * 1.5 \u003d 7.5 mm of indentation at the edge joints with the walls of the room. And in a room with a width of 3 m - 4.5 mm each.

IMPORTANT! This rule is valid only if the room maintains a relative humidity of no more than 65%.

In the event of improper installation of the laminate, the most vulnerable will be door frames, stair joints, transition profiles and heating pipes.

If the room in which you are laying the laminate is loaded with heavy furniture that limits the natural expansion of the laminate (on the balcony, for example, in the kitchen or in the hallway), the gap on the wall opposite to this furniture should contain two indents, i.e. for the same 3-meter room, the gap should be about 9-10 mm.

The thermal seams will not be visible next to the walls, because they will be covered with baseboards.

• Laminate laying technology

Laying of laminate flooring elements can be done in a regular and irregular manner. The offset of the end joints of adjacent rows in any installation scheme should be at least 40 cm.

Quick Laying Guide for Laminate Flooring (Straight Laying Order)

Let's consider in detail the order of direct laying:

The process of laying the laminate starts from the far corner of the room. The first panel, without cutting it in width, is laid on the floor covered with a backing, having previously cut off the locking part from the side adjacent to the wall (a professional technique with a saw will do better if you do the repair yourself, just rent a machine and put the hacksaw aside: this device will only spoil panel).

Snap the panels of the first row with the short side.

IMPORTANT! Laminate can have several types of locks. The most common fastening systems are the Click and Lock systems (we did not consider the adhesive fastening method). Some manufacturers, for example, Tarkett (Tarkett), develop specific types of fastening for their products, the difference between which is clearly visible in the lower picture.

Figure 2 - Types of fastening of laminated panels from Tarkett

Insert spacer wedges of the required width (included in the mounting kit) along the first row between the panels and the wall.

The last panel in a row, if necessary, is sawn off along the length and the second row starts from the sawn-off part, if it is not shorter than 40 cm.

When laying the second row, the panels are first snapped in with the short side, and then with the long side.

The same laying principle applies to all subsequent rows.

After laying out the panels of the last row, measure the distance to the wall. If this space is not enough for laying the last row (do not forget about the gaps!), Cut the panels along the available free width (the lock on the side adjacent to the wall can also be cut).

Secrets of laying laminate flooring at difficult points in the room

• The installation of the laminate at the door frame should be carried out taking into account the preservation of gaps along the entire perimeter of the panel at the points of contact with the door, threshold and walls of the room. The door frame should be sawn to the height of the panel so that it goes under it without pressing, and there is no pressure on the panel.

Figure 3 - Installation of laminate in the doorway

• The laminate at the radiators is installed by cutting off the lock. Often glue is used to secure this panel.

Figure 5 - Laying laminate at pipes

The installation of the laminate is completed by the installation of skirting boards, as well as special masking sills in doorways (they hide the gaps when moving from one coating to another). It is possible to do without thresholds only when the laminate is laid in several rooms at once with one continuous sheet.

IMPORTANT!Step-by-step instructions are one of the obligatory inserts for branded products from Alloc (Allok, Norway), Pergo (Pergo, Sweden) and other renowned manufacturers of floor coverings such as Egger (Egger, Germany) or Wasterhof (Wasterhof, Germany).

In addition, you can find training videos on the Web on how to properly lay a laminate from a particular manufacturer. For example, a lesson on laying laminate Classen (Klassen, Germany).

VIDEO: Laying laminate Classen (Germany)

VIDEO: Laying Pergo laminate (Sweden)

VIDEO: Choosing a quality floor covering: Balterio laminate (Balterio, Belgium)

From the videos above, it is easy to see that the master lays the laminate exclusively on the self-leveling floor - an even and reliable base.

$ Laying laminate flooring: price issue

If we are talking about a laminate, then it is not important how much the coating costs, but what guarantees the manufacturer gives for his product. To buy inexpensive laminate means to start repairs again soon. panels without impregnation, retaining moisture (for example, wax) and really strong lamination will not last even five years, not to mention the calm "attitude" of the coating to heels and heavy furniture.

The calculation of the cost of the laminate can be carried out by meter or by packaging. Laminate from the company Egger already mentioned by us, for example, costs on average from $ 15 / m² or from $ 38 / pack (2.48 m² is standard in the package).

Some sites or sales representatives, when buying for an amount greater than $ 80-100, place an order with delivery (provided free of charge).

On average, the prices for the laminate of the mentioned manufacturers are as follows:

• egger laminate costs from $ 9.5 / m² (Harrison Oak model, 7 mm);
• balterio laminate costs from 17 $ / m² (Optimum Bleached Oak model, 8 mm);

Photo 7 - Balterio laminate, model Bleached Oak Optimum, 8 mm

• quick Step laminate costs from 21 $ / m² (model Old Natural Oak Classic, 7 mm);
• tarkett laminate costs from 18 $ / m² (model Oak Sherwood Mocha Woodstock, 8 mm).

Photo 8 - Laminate Tarket, model Oak Sherwood Mocha Woodstock t, 8 mm

You can use a special calculator to determine the approximate number of laminate packages. It looks like this:

Figure 6 - Calculation of the amount of material

Laminate price:

Kiev - from 69 UAH / m²;

Moscow - from 345 rubles / m².

Laminate is a modern, high-tech and relatively inexpensive floor covering that has excellent performance characteristics and has a variety of color and texture options that imitate various types of wood will create comfort and rich atmosphere in any home, and will satisfy the taste requirements of even the most sophisticated person. Another important feature that inclines many to choose this particular floor covering and leaves almost no chance for others - manufacturability in assembly, which allows you to do all the installation work yourself.

To assemble the floor, the involvement of craftsmen is not at all required, as well as special skills, and even more so any expensive and specialized tool, which after work will not be in demand in the household. All you need to do is strictly follow the rules set by the manufacturer, thanks to them, the laying of the laminate with your own hands will be done quickly and efficiently, and the result achieved will delight you for many years, and often even longer than the service life declared by the manufacturer.

Sub-floor requirements

Laminate is a composite material, which is a multi-layer lamella, each layer of which has a specific functional purpose and provides the necessary strength and decorative characteristics. Without going into the technological features of production, we can say that the basis is MDF from the bottom and top sides, lined with a protective and decorative coating, respectively.

Fig. 1.

The lamella is equipped with a system of locks along the perimeter, ensuring a reliable connection of the elements. Structurally, it is made in such a way that when the panels are joined, it closes with a click, greatly simplifying the assembly, however, the delicacy of these elements requires accuracy and attention during work, and imposes certain requirements on the subfloor.

Fig. 2.

Naturally, the surface of any base has a certain relief and some defects are not always acceptable and must be eliminated. Otherwise, during operation, the locks will be exposed to high loads for which they are not designed, which will lead to weakening of joints, creeping of seams, penetration of moisture and dirt into them, followed by swelling of the decorative coating and its coming into complete unusability.

Realizing the above-described troubles, laminate manufacturers have developed general requirements for the shape of the relief and the size of irregularities, the height difference on them should not exceed 2 mm per 2 m of the floor area. The easiest way to assess whether this rule is fulfilled or not is to use a building level, by applying it to the floor in various places, you can easily see whether there is a gap and whether it is within acceptable limits.

Fig. 3.

Quite often the question arises whether it is possible to lay a laminate, on linoleum or parquet, provided that all of the above requirements are met. In this regard, the manufacturers of laminate flooring (LP) do not give a negative answer, which is good news, since removing old floors is always an additional and rather tedious task.

Ways to eliminate floor defects

The time spent on eliminating the problems of the rough base and the complexity of performing these works can many times exceed the effort expended on the flooring of the topcoat, but this is a kind of guarantee of a long and trouble-free operation of the latter.

In houses of different times of construction, the subfloor can be wooden or concrete, the choice of a way to eliminate all kinds of defects depends on this. Regardless of the type of base, in the end it must be flat, strong, and meet the requirements of drug manufacturers.

An old screed can have many different problems, most of which are solved with a cement-sand mortar. Cracks are embroidered and putty, peeling pieces are removed and, like the recesses, they are filled with fresh mixture, or specialized repair compounds are used. After hardening and completely drying, the floor is ready for further work.

Fig. 4.

Quite often it happens that even after a lot of efforts have been made to repair the screed, its quality still does not meet the requirements. Then self-leveling mixtures come to the rescue, they, having created a uniform layer of only a few millimeters, allow you to achieve a perfectly flat floor surface.

Fig. 5.

A fresh screed made using modern technologies is often free from any defects and potential problems, with the exception of moisture and dust. Residual moisture is its integral companion, which has an extremely negative effect on the base of the lamella - MDF, therefore, the new cement floor must be thoroughly dried, and its surface must be treated with a deep penetration primer that will eliminate flaking and dustiness.

Fig. 6.

Compared to concrete, a wooden floor is somewhat superior in terms of the speed of elimination of defects, due to the absence of the need for drying, dedusting and priming.

The main problem of wood is not durability, a tendency to decay and loss of its properties, and floors made of boards do not bypass this, therefore, first, defective places are identified and elements that have become unusable are replaced. After that, the floor can be scraped, having previously sunk the nails and screws into the body of the boards in order to protect against possible damage to the working tool.

Fig. 7.

Pulling can be done in various ways, for example, using a special machine, this allows you to achieve the best result. In the absence of the latter, an electric planer can be put into operation, and with slight differences in height, a hand-held belt sander.

Fig. 8.

Despite the fact that the previous method is less expensive, in most cases they try to avoid it when carrying out work on their own, this is mostly due to the banal lack of the necessary tool.

Solving the problems of old wooden floors, in 90% of cases, the method of leveling the floor with plywood with a thickness of 10-12 mm is used. It is laid in a checkerboard pattern and fixed with self-tapping screws to the floorboards, while the fastening step should not exceed 15-20 cm.Any sheet material can be used in place of plywood, for example, chipboard, gypsum fiber board, particle board, etc.

Fig. 9.

Vapor barrier and underlay for laminate

As already casually mentioned earlier, MDF, which serves as the basis of any lamella, the crane has a negative attitude to high humidity, the source of which, as it may not sound surprising, is the concrete base of the floor. The fact is that the cement elements of the building structure perfectly absorb and accumulate not only water that accidentally fell on them, for example, as a result of a leak, but also moisture inevitably present in the air, and transfer it to all decorative materials bordering them, wallpaper , flooring, etc. This applies to both new and old screeds, as well as to all kinds of leveling compounds based on cement.

The solution to this problem is vapor barrier; in the case of LP, this function is perfectly performed by polyethylene laid on the screed. By and large, any film can be purchased for these purposes, but if you follow the recommendations, you should still use it with a thickness of at least 0.2 mm or 200 microns. It is laid so that there is an overlap of the strips of at least 20 cm, such an allowance will guarantee that they will not creep and a gap does not form. It is recommended to additionally fix the joints with tape.

Fig. 10.

The situation with a wooden base is much simpler, its material is already well dried during flooring, and if we are talking about old floors, then after many years of service, residual moisture tends to zero. For this reason, it makes no sense to arrange a vapor barrier.

If the insulation is an optional layer, which is laid only in certain cases, then the underlay is an integral part of any laminate, without it, in principle, laying is unacceptable. Its main purpose is to damp and compensate for the smallest irregularities, which, even with careful preparation, still remain. Today there are many varieties of it, made from various materials and their combinations. Each type differs not only in cost, but also in the field of application, this circumstance must be strictly observed.

• Foamed polyethylene. This type is often associated with packaging material, in fairness it should be noted that it was originally so. This is the most inexpensive substrate, available in 2 and 3 mm thick, does not absorb moisture, and in fact is heat and sound insulation. However, it is unreasonable to use it for high quality laminate flooring due to its low service life and poor performance as an insulating and damping material. It quickly becomes brittle, and in places of greatest permeability it becomes strongly compacted and loses its properties, which leads to a visible curvature of the floor and the appearance of an unpleasant sound accompaniment when walking.

Fig.11.

• Extruded polystyrene foam. Who would not say what, but this is a compromise of cost and consumer qualities, therefore this is the most popular material, and it is used in most cases. Expanded polystyrene has a high density, perfectly smoothes microroughnesses, over time is not subject to compaction and embrittlement, and chemical attack, copes very well with the functions of sound and heat insulation. Available in mats and rolls.

Fig. 12.

• Cork. The name itself suggests that this is an environmentally friendly material with all the properties of natural wood bark. It is made of crumbs impregnated with an adhesive composition, has excellent sound insulation properties, has a low heat transfer coefficient, perfectly performs the functions of a substrate, has a long service life and is used with laminates with a long service life. Do not forget that this is a natural material that is sensitive to moisture, therefore it is used in places where the likelihood of leaks is minimized.

Fig.13.

• Bituminous cork. It is made on a cellulose basis, cork chips are fixed not with glue, as in the previous case, but with bitumen resin, which gives it greater strength and, as a result, prolongs its service life. At the same time, it is this type of substrate that is recommended for use together with the underfloor heating system.

Fig. 14.

• Polyurethane backing on aluminum foil. The most expensive, but also the most technologically advanced material with the best characteristics. Given its peculiarities, the expediency of using polyurethane is seen for laying high-quality expensive coatings such as parquet boards.

Fig. 15.

Despite the abundance of substrate types, the decisive criterion in the selection should be the instructions or recommendations of the LDL manufacturer indicated on the packaging. Following these requirements, you will definitely not be mistaken in your choice and thus get the service life declared by the manufacturer.

Whichever type of backing material you prefer, it spreads the same way. Laying can be carried out in stages as the panels are assembled or all at once on the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room, while its individual parts are fixed together with tape.

Fig. 16.

Laying scheme and direction

Before proceeding directly to the assembly of lamellas, many are wondering about the direction of their location relative to the walls of the room, and this is very reasonable. By and large, there are no clear rules or guidelines in this matter, but there are specific recommendations that allow you to make visual metamorphoses of the room, and are also designed to improve the appearance of the decorative floor covering.

Fig. 17.

Let's start with the latter, so if the panels are placed perpendicular to the direction of incidence of sunlight, then their joints will be seen much better than if they were oriented parallel. This implies a simple rule, the lamellas should be laid parallel or at an angle to the direction of the sun's rays from the window.

So there are two best options, but which one is better? Here design techniques of interior decoration already come into force.

• If you are repairing a room with a rectangular section, the windows of which are located on a narrow wall, then the diagonal method looks the most correct, it will visually expand the room. A straight line, on the contrary, will give the room a more elongated look, which can be perfectly used for dividing into different zones, for example, for a living room.

Fig. 18.

• In the case of the location of light openings along a longer wall, it becomes a priority to expand the room, here it is more correct to arrange the panels in parallel, while the angular option will slightly balance the disproportion.

Fig. 19.

When deciding on the direction of the panel sheathing, it is important to understand that the diagonal version is more complicated in execution and carries with it high material costs. Therefore, it is important to weigh the pros and cons and make the right decision.

The installation scheme is of no less importance, it is not only the prerogative of design, but also has a direct bearing on the assembly technology and the resulting quality and service life of the laminate. The flooring scheme should be understood as the order of formation of individual rows and their relative position to each other. The laying technology prescribes the need to shift the rows by at least 1/3 of the lamella length, otherwise the reliability and strength of the locking joints will be a big question.

On the basis of the practical implementation of this requirement, two variants of displacement by 1/2 and 1/3 of the lamella length can be distinguished.

• In the floor of the board is the easiest way and it is preferred by those who first started doing this work, this option assumes that odd rows begin with a whole lamella, and even rows start with half.

Fig. 21.

• Laying in a third is more prone to confusion for the newly-made master, here the first row begins with a whole board, the second with 1/3, the third with 2/3 and the fourth again with a whole.

Fig. 22.

From a design point of view, the latter option is preferable, since it allows you to hide the joints and visually the flooring seems to be whole, and not consisting of discrete parts.

Fig. 23.

There is one more important rule that must be taken into account before starting work - the width of the last row must be at least 5 cm. To take this into account, you will have to dive into the calculations a little. To do this, having decided on the direction, we measure the width of the room (perpendicular to the direction of the flooring of the panels), subtract from it 20 mm necessary to create an expansion gap near the walls and divide it by the width of the lamella (indicated on the package). We have obtained the exact number of rows. Now, multiplying the fractional part by the width of the panel, we find out the desired value, if it turns out to be less than 5 cm, then the first row must be reduced to the appropriate size.

Fig.24.

Types of locks, methods and rules of laying

There are several ways to assemble lamellas, the use of one or another depends on the type of lock, which may also differ depending on the manufacturer and model of the floor covering. Of the many possible options for the lock connection, three fundamentally different can be distinguished: "lock", "click" and "uniclick".

Fig. 25.

Lock "lock " - it is connected by tapping with a hammer in order to drive the spike into the groove until the gap between the panels is completely eliminated. This is a reliable and durable option that requires constant attention of the master for planting density.

Fig. 26.

System "Click " - implies the connection of panels in a snapping manner, i.e. the comb of one lamella is inserted into the groove of the other at an angle of 20-30 degrees and snaps into place with a characteristic click, hence the name. The advantage of this type of lock is the possibility of easy disassembly, which is extremely important for replacing damaged parts.

Fig. 27.

Lock connection "uniclick " - a combination of the above systems, which allows you to connect the panels in any way convenient for you, and has ease of disassembly if repairs are necessary.

Depending on the type of the lock, there are two methods of assembly, one by one board and rows for the systems "lock" and "click", respectively. For "uniclick", any of the methods can be used, as well as a combination of them.

Fig. 28.

Regardless of the design features of the panels, the following rules should be strictly observed:

• Laminate must be allowed to stand hanging for 48 hours so that its temperature is equal to room temperature, otherwise it may be defective during installation.
• There must be a 10 mm gap between the floor covering and the walls of the room to compensate for the thermal expansion of the lamellas. It is created using wedges; for this purpose, you can use cut plywood or panels.
• The lamellas should always be laid with the groove towards you, if the installation is carried out from left to right, then the groove should be located on the right, if from right to left, then vice versa.
• The groove and ridge of the panels adjoining the walls must be cut off.

To complete all the work you will need:

Fig. 29.

• Styling kit (wedges, bar, clamp).
• Saw or jigsaw.
• A hammer.
• Roulette, ruler.
• Pencil.

Assembling one board at a time

One panel assembly assumes their serial connection. Let's agree that we will lead the direction of the flooring from left to right.

One of the most popular materials for floor decoration is the so-called laminate. It is a chipboard-like multi-layer coating with a very durable outer protective coating. The idea of \u200b\u200bmaking laminate panels and using them for flooring was born in the 70s and 80s in the West and quickly spread throughout the world. Now this type of flooring is as popular as parquet, ceramic floor tiles. One of the advantages of the material is possibility of self-styling... Now we will determine what tools are needed, how to choose the material and where to start laying the laminate.

Varieties and labeling of laminate

Modern types of laminate, presented in the markets of Russia and the countries of the former CIS, have a thickness of 7 to 12 mm, a length of 1.2 - 2 m and a width of 180-190 mm. The main indicator for him is the abrasion class - it can be AC-3, AC-4, AC-5, AC-6. Previously, these classes had the values \u200b\u200b31, 32, 33, 34, while AC-5 corresponds to class 33. It is better to choose the most durable laminate: for the house, the class AC-4, AC-5 is quite suitable.

All modern laminate flooring is equipped with Click or G5 locks or their modifications. The G5 lock is one of the most modern locks and is loved by all experts. There is a fixing plastic strip inside the lock. It snaps into place when the tongue enters the groove, requiring little effort. There is a laminate with and without bevels. The outer face of the floor covering has a very wide selection of decorative patterns that are under the protective top layer.

Tools and materials

When performing work on laying the floor covering, you need to stock up on a certain set of tools, it will also be useful in the future when repairing or installing ceilings, walls or floors. The required tool kit should contain:

• tape measure and pencil;
• building level at least 1.5 m long;
• jigsaw with a set of blades or circular saw;
• electric drill;
• puncher;
• construction vacuum cleaner;
• grinder with a nozzle for grinding a concrete base;
• feather drills;
• knife with spare blades;
• square;
• a hammer;
• special bracket for pulling panels together;
• hacksaw for metal.

No special tool is required, and every craftsman who performs various construction work or repairs has a similar set. When carrying out large-scale work on laying flooring, they resort to using a cross-cut machine.

Materials required for laying laminate flooring, the amount of which must be calculated and purchased in advance:

• vapor barrier film 0.2 mm thick;
• substrate;
• construction tape, adhesive tape;
• laminate panels are purchased by the size of the area of \u200b\u200bthe room with a margin of at least 5%;
• spacer wedges;
• fasteners for the skirting board;
• plinth around the perimeter of the room;
• additional elements for the skirting board: inner and outer corners and plugs.

If the area of \u200b\u200bthe room is large, it must be separated with expansion joints. For this, there are special strips, which are selected to match the main laminate.

Surface preparation before laying

You can install laminate flooring on concrete floors, cement screeds, wood floors, ceramic tiles and any other level, durable, dry floor. A very important requirement for the base is its smooth and even surface, deviations from the horizontal should not exceed 2 mm per running meter... For this purpose, use the usual building level and measure the entire room in different directions. If deviations are found that exceed this value, they must be eliminated. When using a cement screed or concrete floor as a base under a laminate, to level them, you can additionally cover them with a thin layer of the so-called self-leveling floor.

The deviation of the surface from the horizontal with correct filling will be no more than 1-2 mm per two running meters of length. If for various reasons this is difficult to accomplish, you can try to grind off the bulges.

The surface before laying must be clean and dry, the humidity of the base is allowed within 40-65%. The optimum temperature for laying should be between 18 and 22 degrees Celsius. Therefore, before you start laying the laminate, the lamellae must be kept indoors for at least 48 hours in order for acclimatization to occur. During this time, all preparatory work for leveling the subfloor, cleaning and marking is carried out. It is worth recalling that it is necessary to buy laminate in an amount 5% higher than the floor area.

On video: technology for laying the substrate and laminate.

Correct paving technology

There are generally accepted rules for laying floor panels, in particular, the lamellas are laid out along the rays of light coming from the window. That is, the long side of the plank should be perpendicular to the window. Therefore, the answer to the question of where to start laying laminate flooring is simple: along any wall perpendicular to the window. In this case, the seams between the panels are less visible. Laying the laminate diagonally across the room, although technically feasible, is not used due to the large amount of waste, and the seams with this layout will be more noticeable than with the traditional one.

After laying the first row, the second row is shifted 1/2 or 1/3 of the length of the laminate plank. This is done for a more durable connection of the laminate into one common array. The method can also be used when the second row starts with pruning from the previous row - in this case, a minimum amount of waste is obtained. Usually, the calculation of the laminate laying scheme is performed.

Before starting work, put a vapor barrier film with an overlap of 150 mm on the surface of the base and glue it with adhesive tape. The film is laid in such a way that it goes onto the walls, where it is subsequently pressed against the baseboard. Then it is necessary to lay a 2 mm layer of underlay - usually roll polyurethane. There is also a more expensive cork backing, it is often used in offices, as well as when laying parquet.

The next stage is the laying of laminate boards. Before starting installation, the entire laminate must be reviewed to ensure that all locks are intact and clean. It is also necessary to calculate the laying of the laminate and find out the width of the last row of plates. This width must not be less than 50 mm.

You can start from any wall perpendicular to the window... The first row of laminate is laid along the wall, the planks are connected with end locks. In this case, a gap of 10 mm is left between the laminate planks and the walls, which is provided by means of spacer wedges. There are several ways to connect second row laminate planks. You can install each bar separately, as indicated in the instructions. But it is better if, first, the strips of the second row will be connected to each other using end locks. Then the entire second strip is joined with the first, sometimes an assistant is required for this.

Nuances and subtleties when laying laminate

With high-quality preparation of the base and correct laying of the laminate, such a floor covering can last a very long time - up to 20 years... At the same time, it is important to observe the humidity regime and arrange a vapor barrier, since this material is very sensitive to moisture. It is not used in bathrooms. Also, it is imperative to perform temperature gaps near walls, door frames. Laminate flooring is a type of floating floor. When the humidity and temperature of the board changes, the entire coating expands and if sufficient gaps are not made, swelling can occur.

When installing a laminate flooring in several adjacent rooms, it is worth dividing the array and not making it solid in all rooms. It is better to divide it at the border of the interior doors using a special sill. In this case, it is easier to carry out repairs if the laminate suddenly swells in one of the rooms.

In the corridor, when laying the laminate, it is necessary to use the following rule: lay the panels with the long side in the direction of preferential movement, that is, from the front door.

Conclusion

When performing flooring work, simple rules must be strictly followed. Also, the durability of such a coating depends on the quality of the laminate boards. Therefore, you should not save on material, but buy flooring only from proven world leaders, since such savings can turn into big problems. Technologically, laminate flooring is not very difficult, and therefore this work can be performed by anyone with a tool and certain skills. If it is difficult to do the work yourself, you can contact the specialists who will help you choose and lay the laminate.

Secrets of laying laminate (2 videos)