Azalea - home care. Painstaking care of azalea at home

Every housewife wants to create comfort and beauty at home. Certainly, different people imagine comfort in their own way, but most of us include in this concept a beautiful, blooming green corner. When you see an azalea on the shelf of a flower shop (or greenhouse), you involuntarily imagine it on your windowsill, terrace or veranda. Moreover, the timing of its flowering falls on March-February, when everything is gray-white outside the window, and such an explosion of flowering is possible in the apartment - pink, red, white, yellow, lilac shades.

This flower is a real "walrus", does not like high temperatures, therefore, if you are a cold-loving person, then you are on the way with an azalea, if you like heat in the apartment (above 18-20˚С), then most likely the azalea will not work .

Azalea care at home

The most important points in caring for an azalea are maintaining a comfortable temperature, light, moisture and acidity of the soil.

Temperature:

• during flowering - 18-20˚С (in some apartments the heating is such that it will be comfortable for the plants). If the apartment is very warm, then you can build a “third glass” - a barrier between the room and the window, it is in this niche that the azaleas will be placed (cool air comes from the glass and does not go into the room), and the flower will be clearly visible;
• during the budding period (October-November), the temperature must be maintained at about 12 ˚С, otherwise the azalea will not want to bloom and may even drop foliage (here it is appropriate to recall a glazed balcony or terrace);
• in summer it is more difficult, try to keep the temperature not exceeding 25 ˚С, that is, it is good to keep it in an air-conditioned room, but not under direct streams of cold air. Placement on a shaded terrace will give a positive effect.

Watering:

• regular, every other day;
• use boiled and settled water (the plant does not tolerate salinity);
• watering should be carried out in small portions, after a quarter of an hour, drain the water from the pan;
• do not allow the earthen coma to dry out;
• purchased azalea is first recommended to be watered through the pan, as nurseries use such watering and the roots are developed down. Then, after transshipment, the plants can be gradually transferred to the top watering;
• do not use odorous tap water (chlorine will destroy the flower), melt water is very useful,
• It is recommended to regularly put a couple of pieces of ice on top of the soil - this moistens the soil and further stimulates flowering;
• If you accidentally missed it and the earth in the pot dried up, then put it with the azalea in a basin with settled water for a couple of hours - let it get drunk properly.

Illumination:

• azalea loves good lighting, it is only necessary to exclude direct scorching rays of the sun;
• in October-November - the period of ovary buds - she will have to extend the day (light up fluorescent lamps) so that the buds and buds can form, otherwise you will not see flowering;
• if in the summer the azalea “leaves” to the country, pick up a place for the plant so that the sun hits only in the morning and evening.

Air humidity:

• remember the natural habitat of rhodendrons - it is dominated by high humidity, so it is necessary to create similar conditions at home;
• regularly spray the air around the plant, and if you do this cold water, the temperature will automatically drop a few degrees;
• put containers with water next to it or put the flowerpot in a pan with water so that the pot does not touch the water (for example, on corks or expanded clay);
• ideally, purchase an air humidifier, which will benefit not only plants, but also people, this is especially important during the heating season;
• during the flowering period, do not get water dust on delicate flowers- from this appear ugly brown spots.

The soil:

• uniquely acidic, pH 3.5-5;
• Azalea primer is sold in specialized stores - use it;
• over time, the soil can become alkaline, in order to avoid this, you can sometimes drip a couple of drops into the water (0.5 l) for irrigation lemon juice(no more than twice a month).

Plant nutrition is also an important factor., because it spends so much energy on lush flowering. Fertilizers are specially created for azaleas (of course, there are so many varieties). The main condition is top dressing from May to September, before a cold snap.

The secret of abundant flowering is not only temperature regime , but also the correct trimming of the bush. Before the active growth of new ones, in May, we leave 4-5 leaves on the branches, and cut off the rest. Rodendron will bush better and form more buds.

Azalea rhodendron transplant at home

After the azalea has faded, it is necessary to remove the flower stalks, dry twigs and transplant the plant, choosing a larger pot. The pot should be taken 5 cm larger than the previous one. If the bush tolerates pruning normally, then you need to be very careful with the root system.

• Some flower growers recommend simply transferring the plant, that is, planting it in new pot with an old clod of earth, only adding drainage to the bottom, and compacting it with a substrate for azaleas from the sides.
• Others suggest a little magic. After removing the plant along with a lump from the old pot, soak the waste soil in plenty of water for irrigation with the addition of Kornevin. This will make it possible to examine the root system, carefully remove rotten roots. It is advisable to add a little Vermiculite, sphagnum moss and sand to the finished substrate. 2-3 cm of drainage - to the bottom of the pot, then a layer of pine bark, then the soil mixture.

To prevent diseases, sprinkle the earth with trichodermin. We place the flower in the center of the pot (you shouldn’t pick up the lump manually, what gets wet, then gets wet), sprinkle it with earth, you should not deepen the neck of the plant. Pour the flower with the water in which it soaked, and for 4 days let it rest on a warm windowsill with diffused lighting. When the azalea blooms, it is not recommended to transplant it..

Azalea at home after purchase

Azalea care at home after purchase photo Azalea in a pot

As for the transplant immediately after the purchase, there are several points to consider here.

• Firstly, the plant was taken from the greenhouse, where it is comfortable, to our home, where there are no all conditions - already stress. Adding more is pointless. Most often, the flower enters the apartment already, and it is not worth replanting it.
• On the other hand, the soil in the pot is transport peat, the pots are small, narrow and tall, and azaleas have a superficial root system. There is only one way out - the first year to endure until the end of flowering and urgently transplant the plant so that it can grow and bloom for many more years.
• Young plants are recommended to be transplanted annually, and those that are older - once every 3-4 years.

Reproduction of domestic azaleas

1) The most affordable way is cuttings

The cut of the cuttings is carried out in the spring, during the pruning of the bush.

• Semi-woody cuttings of this year are cut (length - from 5 to 15 cm).
• Immediately under the kidney, an oblique cut is made, and half of the leaves are removed.
• The cuttings are soaked in the root.
• Rooting is a painstaking process. It is necessary to keep it under cover (a jar or bag) in a fertile substrate, constantly moistening the soil and airing the planting material.
• The temperature is kept at 25˚С.
• After a month and a half, the seedlings are accustomed to drier air, leaving them open longer, and then planted on permanent place.

2) Reproduction by layering

• Bend the lower branch to the ground and press it to the ground with a wire (you can use a hairpin, invisible, paper clip), cover it with soil.
• After about six months, roots will appear on this branch and it can be separated from mother plant.

3) Growing from seeds

Many flower growers do not mind growing azaleas from seeds at home. The video will tell you how to grow full-fledged plants.

How to prepare seeds:

How to sow seeds:

How seedlings develop:

Adding peat to strengthen seedlings:

The grown plants gently dive into separate cups and grow, providing optimal conditions: watering, lighting, air humidity. Later, upon reaching a height of 8-10 cm, the seedlings can be planted by transshipment into a permanent pot.

Diseases and pests of room azalea, ways to fight

Proper care and prevention will save us from all kinds of misfortunes.

• If a spider mite or moth is wound up, then treatment with a soapy solution will save the plant. Prophylactically apply a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid twice a month.
• If the leaves turn yellow or fall off, this may not be a disease at all, but a consequence of improper watering (either overflow or undermoistening). Also watch for sun exposure, sunburn cannot be ruled out.
• Finally, when buying azaleas, choose younger plants - they tolerate acclimatization more easily, take root more painlessly and will be an ornament for many years.

Azalea Description

Azalea is an evergreen or deciduous ornamental flower (shrub), belongs to the Heather family, a native of China and India. Common in Japan in the art of bonsai. The natural flowering period falls at the end of winter - the beginning of spring, since it was then that in the shade of the Asian forests, on the Indian foothills, a temperature comfortable for azalea flowers is set - about 18 ˚С, as well as high humidity.

And the laying of the kidneys occurs earlier, in winter, at a temperature not higher than 12 ˚С. In their natural environment, flowers have a very strong, even suffocating smell, and varieties bred for home growing, have a very subtle aroma, or it is absent altogether.

In the Asian-Indian part of the northern hemisphere, azaleas grow either as a tree and a half meters high, sometimes they form whole fragrant thickets.

Types and varieties of azaleas with descriptions and photos

In fact, the azalea is one of the subgenera in the genus Rhododendron, but gardeners out of habit use the name both azalea and rhododendron. Rhododendron, translated from Greek, is a rose tree.

Azalea japonica rhododendron blunt

Azalea Japanese rhododendron blunt Rhododendron obtusum ‘Königstein’

A low-growing compact shrub (up to 60 cm tall) is widely used in indoor floriculture. It lends itself well to pruning and forms a dense cushion of flowers. Thanks to these wonderful properties, the Japanese azalea has become popular as a standard azalea. After flowering is over, she will be grateful if you move her to the garden for the summer, she tolerates temperature fluctuations more calmly.

Here are some examples of popular varieties:
Melina is a neat perennial with carmine flowers that reach 5 cm in diameter, the edges of the petals are wavy;
Kermesina Alba is a snow-white form with smaller flowers that completely cover the bush.

She became the ancestor of many varieties of indoor azaleas. Her bush is much more luxurious, and larger flowers play with all kinds of colors, they can be simple and terry. The flowering period lasts up to two months.

Favorite varieties:
Stella Maris - differs in the original color of the petals - according to white sheet scattered crimson touches;
Albert-Elizabeth - an early variety surprises with the size of flowers - up to 8 cm, terry petals are bordered with a dark coral stripe;
Madame Petryk is also an early flowering variety that blooms around Christmas.

Azalea Azalea Knap Hill Hybrid

Hybrids of the first two types of azaleas, which appeared in the 19th century thanks to the famous nursery, which gave the name to this hybrid. Most of these varieties are deciduous and are grown in the garden.

There is also a classification of azaleas by flowering time:

• early flowering - December - January;
• mid-flowering - January - March;
• late flowering - February - April.

If you choose plants with various terms flowering and provide proper care, then you can admire the flowering of azaleas for up to six months.

Plants come to stores from nurseries. It is no secret that the azalea is a rather whimsical flower. Producers prepare plants for flowering and sale artificially.

In nurseries they are treated with special synthetic substances, introducing the flower into a state of sleep. The plant has a presentable appearance and is able to bloom for several months thanks to fertilizers introduced in the nursery.

But at this time, the root system of the azalea is in a state of sleep and does not receive any development. As a result, the plant can get sick - the roots will begin to die from a fungal infection. This is one of the reasons why the azalea disappears immediately after it was brought from the store and placed on the windowsill at home.

approximate cost

Azalea prices in Moscow and St. Petersburg range from 250 to 2500 rubles per flower. There are several factors that affect the cost of a plant:

1. a variety of azalea (home and garden);
2. the size of the flower and its root system (the higher and larger the plant, the more expensive it is);
3. number of buds.

Most online stores have sales assistants who are ready to help not only with the choice of a variety of shrubs, but also tell you in detail about caring for azalea at home after purchase.

Photo

What to do after the acquisition and how to save the plant?

Decide on the future place for the flower. Recommended settings:

• well-lit space out of reach of direct sunlight (east or north side);
• temperature from 16 to 18 degrees - cool enough;
• high level of humidity.

ATTENTION! Inspect the soil of the plant by carefully pulling the flower out of the flowerpot.

Very often, to give a fresh look in stores, azalea is poured with water. If the soil is too wet:

1. Remove the flower from the pot and wrap the root system with soil with absorbent paper.
2. Repeat until soil is dry enough.

If the flower is dried:

1. It should be placed directly with the pot in a container of water for an hour. The liquid should reach the edges of the flowerpot.
2. After pulling the plant out of the water and allowing excess moisture to drain, placing the pot on a plate or tray, previously laid with expanded clay, so that the soil no longer touches the liquid.

Indoor flower adaptation period

A plant can be considered adapted only when, after moving to the windowsill from the store, the azalea will fade and give new shoots. During this nervous period, the plant should be especially carefully looked after and observed.

Azaleas do not tolerate heat, so do not place the flower on window sills above radiators.

It's also detrimental to them. low humidity. The cooler it is in the room during the adaptation period, the more likely it is that the plant will not die. Do not rush to fertilize the plant. In nurseries, azaleas are planted in overfed soil for further transportation and conservation. Subject to all the rules, it remains only to take a wait-and-see attitude.

Spraying "Epin" will help in adaptation. This is a biostimulant for plants created artificially. It helps to activate the individual protection functions of the plant, raises its resistance to stress and immunity. Breeding instructions can be read on the package, and you can spray once every 10 days.

You can read more about plant nutrition, as an obligatory part of azalea care, about the fertilization procedure and other nuances.

How to care for a purchased plant so that it does not wither?

Azalea must get used to the room in which she was brought after purchase. Due to its capriciousness, the once beautiful flowering plant can drop flowers and leaves in a few days. If the leaves on the branches of the trunk still fell off or the plant wilts, then these are harbingers of the inevitable death of the shrub, so you need to know what to do in such a situation. In order to enjoy this plant for many years, you must adhere to the basic and important rules for caring for it and know how to buy a potted flower in a store.

ATTENTION! After the acquisition, the azalea is recommended to be transshipped, but not transplanted.

The transfer process is simple:

1. carefully remove the earthen lump together with the plant from the purchased flowerpot;
2. place the flower with soil in a new spacious pot;
3. fill free space with a special substrate;
4. do not over-moisten the ground.

How to save an azalea bought in a store? Under such conditions, the azalea tolerates adaptation better. The fragile root system is also preserved. The soil itself also has special requirements. On the roots of the azalea live special symbiont mushrooms that provide nutrition to the flower. Symbionts die in alkaline soil, followed by the plant itself. This is another reason why you should not wash the roots of azaleas.

The substrate must be acidic and pass moisture and air masses well. It is better to purchase a ready-made soil specially prepared for azaleas. young flowers should be annually. Older generation once every 3 years. At the same time, the upper layer of the earth is replaced without touching the delicate roots of the plant.

Temperature

The ideal temperature for the favorable development of azaleas is 10-15 degrees Celsius. However, in summer heat it is very difficult to provide a flower with such a regime. But in the summer months, azaleas have a period of sleep and rest.

Autumn is the time for budding. During this period, it is necessary to lower the temperature of the azalea content to 6 degrees. As soon as the buds begin to bloom, increase it to 15. We wrote about caring for azalea in the fall.

IMPORTANT! Azalea can't stand the heat. But it is not recommended to water the flower with cold water. This can lead to fungal growth. In summer, put ice around the plant on a saucer. This will save the flower from the heat and moisten the air around it.

Humidity in the pot

This factor is one of the most important. Dry air is detrimental to azaleas. To maintain a high level of moisture, you need to perform several manipulations:

1. choose a deep pallet for a flowerpot;
2. lay pebbles and moss on the bottom of the pallet (sphagnum is ideal);
3. make sure that liquid is constantly present in the pan;
4. during the flowering period, the leaves should be sprayed;
5. avoid large drops when moistening with a spray bottle, drops should be small to prevent spots on the leaves.

Light

This plant loves bright light. But at the same time, it can die under the influence of direct sunlight. The east and north sides are perfect for azaleas. It is possible to put an azalea in the south, but for this it is better not to use a window sill, but to purchase a stand and install it in front of the window.

Watering

Another important factor that helps to protect the azalea from death. Play a big role:

• water quality;
• temperature;
• abundance of watering;
• periodicity.

It is strictly forbidden to water the azalea with ice or cool water. A sharp temperature drop introduces the plant into a state of stress. It also serves as a kind of signal about the onset of autumn and the azalea can drop flowers and leaves (it says how to care for azalea in the fall). It is best to use a liquid of the same temperature as the azalea.

Use soft water:

1. boil;
2. let cool;
3. use only upper layer liquids;
4. do not touch the sediment.

When watered with plain water, the soil will turn from acidic to alkaline, as it contains magnesium and calcium salts. And when boiled, they precipitate. Lemon can be used to acidify the soil. 3 drops of juice are dissolved in a liter of liquid. If you transplant an azalea outdoors for the summer, then rain moisture will act favorably on it.

The flower does not tolerate drought. If the leaves and flowers have drooped, water the azalea immediately. It is better to prevent this and maintain a constant substrate moisture. At the same time, excess fluid can also damage the delicate roots of the azalea - they can rot.

What is unacceptable to do?

• heat;
• drought;
• waterlogging;
• a sharp temperature drop;
• direct exposure to sunlight.

If the flower begins to fade:

If the azalea sheds leaves, this may be the first sign of the death of the plant. What to do if the leaves have fallen?

1. Carefully inspect the soil for pests, mold or rot.
2. Spray the azalea with Epin or zircon. This should be done during the period when the plant does not bloom.
3. After 2 days, water and spray the azalea with phytosporin (10 drops per 250 ml of liquid).
4. Alternate procedures within 2-3 weeks. This will help the dying plant survive the stress.

Azalea requires increased attention and strictly consistent care. Very often, even when performing rescue procedures, the plant cannot be saved and it dies. Therefore, it is better not to bring the flower to a dying state.

With proper and careful care of the azalea, the plant will delight with its magnificent flowers for many years. It may seem to an inexperienced florist that it will take too much time given view flower. However, the rule quickly enough becomes a habit that brings only pleasure.

Related videos

Azalea- widespread indoor plant, which is an evergreen branching shrub. The leaves are ovoid and slightly drooping on both sides.

Azalea in bloom winter time when many plants are resting. The flowers are mostly small. Flowers do not wither for a long time, and can please you for two weeks or more.

In home floriculture, the most common received Japanese and Indian azalea.

Azalea (lat. Azalea). This is the name of a whole group of flowering plant species from the genus Rhododendron (Rhododendron) of the Heather family (Ericaceae). Previously, these species were identified in independent genus— Azalea.

Azalea or rhododendron(translated from Greek - "rose tree") is considered one of the most beautiful indoor plants. It is especially appreciated for the fact that with its lush flowering it brings the breath of spring in the midst of winter cold.

A small, highly branched bush with small leaves in the winter months pleases the eye with a whole hat of amazing flowers.

Azalea flowers are terry and simple, corrugated and fringed, of various shades. Pink colour, as well as white, red, purple and variegated. There are early and late flowering varieties.

Azalea is a very picky, capricious flower. But when flowering - a real beauty. Warm regions grow it in the form garden plant. Cold regions, on the contrary, domesticate it.

Under natural conditions, it can be found in large territorial areas of Europe, North America and Asia. Japan considers the cultivation of this flower a whole cult. The flower became popular at the beginning of the 20th century. Grown in botanical gardens, various nurseries.

Now the azalea is common among indoor plants, and is in great demand because of its unusually beautiful flowering. But there are some serious details of care, and before you get this flower at home, you should familiarize yourself with these rules.

Caring for this flower is not an easy task. If you have just mastered the skills of a florist, then caring for an azalea will seem quite laborious to you. You just need to know some rules for the care of azalea, for the best effect. The flower will delight you with lush flowering and longevity.

Species or varieties

indoor azaleas most often there are two types - this is the Indian azalea (Sims rhododendron) and the Japanese azalea (blunt rhododendron).

Azalea - Sims' rhododendron (rhododendron simsii) a small evergreen shrub up to 50 cm high. Young shoots are almost always covered with flat, chestnut-brown or bright red bristly hairs. The leaves are small (3.5 cm long), leathery, the upper surface is dark green, and the lower surface is light green, covered with reddish hairs. Leaves are short-petiolate. The flowers are collected in inflorescences, can be double and non-double, wide-funnel-shaped (3-5 cm in diameter), open simultaneously. Indian azalea color may be white to bright red. Often, an azalea flower is two-colored: white with a pink middle, with a border around the edge, and also speckled.

Azalea - Sims' rhododendron (rhododendron simsii)

Azalea japonica found as a pot culture is much less common. This is also a low shrub with small shiny leaves from 3 to 5 cm in length. It blooms profusely with small (up to 3 cm in diameter) flowers. Funnel-shaped flowers, various colors.

Azalea japonica

How to care for Azalea

Most often, with inept care at home, shortly after the purchase, the leaves of the azalea begin to dry, the buds fall off and the plant gradually dies. This creates the feeling that it is difficult to create suitable conditions for the existence of this plant. However, it is not.

Azalea is a rather capricious houseplant. But with the right content, it will delight you more than once with an abundance of its amazing colors. You need to know the features of the maintenance of azaleas in room conditions and some rules for caring for this flowering plant, based on an understanding of the characteristics of its life in natural conditions. We must imitate nature and provide plants with the ingredients they need.

Lighting

Azalea does not tolerate direct sunlight, it needs diffused light or partial shade. In summer, it is recommended to take it out into the open air, avoiding the scorching sun. It is best to dig with a pot in the garden in a sparse shade. Good summer rain azaleas are very useful.

If the climate in your area is mild, then some varieties of azaleas can be grown outdoors, protecting them from frost in winter and enjoying an abundance of flowers in summer.

IMPORTANT: The plant should be kept out of direct sunlight, despite the love of the azalea for the sun.

Air humidity

Azaleas need high humidity. If the azalea is in the apartment, then with the beginning heating season the rooms become very dry and it is necessary to maintain high humidity air: regularly spray the plant.

IMPORTANT: Daily spraying during flowering plants is a must. It is necessary to spray finely, as stains remain from large spraying. If fine spraying is not possible, it is worth refraining from the procedure at all.

Watering

For Azaleas, proper watering is very important.. The soil must not dry out. Neither waterlogging nor stagnation of water in the pan should be allowed. Ideal for irrigation - rain, melt or clean river water. In extreme cases, settled tap water.

It is recommended to acidify water for watering azalea(a few crystals of citric acid per 1 liter of water) so as not to lower the acidity of the soil. Azaleas should be watered with water at room temperature (in no case ice cold). In autumn, watering is slightly reduced.

Since peat soil is well suited for azalea, which, when dried, turns into a hard lump and does not absorb water, it is useful to periodically immerse the pot with the plant in a large vessel with water for several hours. If the plant is large, then just use a deep pan.

In no case should the soil be loosened, - Azaleas have thin, delicate roots that are easily damaged..

In cool greenhouses in winter, they practice placing ice or snow on the surface of the soil under the plant. The snow slowly melts and gradually soaks the ground with melt water. But in warm apartments, a large temperature difference between the roots and the crown of the plant can adversely affect the blooming azalea.

Temperature

Azalea is very demanding on temperature. V winter period it needs a cool air temperature (12-14 °C), but with proper care they can grow at 20-22 °C. If the azaleas rested in the garden in the summer, it is very important to move them into the apartment before the start of the heating season.

The soil

Azalea is one of the few indoor plants that require acidic soil (pH 4-4.5). Heather soil is best for her, but you can replace it with a mixture of coniferous and peat land(2:1) with the addition of a small amount river sand. Azalea grows well in hydroponics.

ADVICE: Can be bought in flower shop specially prepared soil mixture for acidophilic (“acid-loving”) plants, which include azaleas.

Transfer

Young plants are transplanted annually, old ones - once every 2-3 years. When transplanting azaleas, it is undesirable to disturb the root ball; instead of transplanting, transshipment with the addition of a fresh substrate is recommended.

Since the root system of the azalea is superficial, as a dish use only low pots.

Fertilizer

It is better not to experiment with fertilizers for azalea, but to buy specialized ones and apply them according to the instructions. The only rule to follow when fertilizing is to fertilize the azalea only during flowering.

Bloom

For profuse flowering you need to cut and pinch the stems in a timely manner. Trimming starts in May. Young shoots are pinched, leaving 4-5 leaves on them. When small young shoots appear near the flower buds, they must be plucked out.

Remember: the more magnificent the bush, the weaker the flowering.

For longer flowering you also need to keep the azalea cool. Flower buds in the process of development and swelling release buds - 2-4 buds from each bud. During flowering, all faded must be removed immediately, then the azalea will bloom longer. As the flowers fade, remove the seed pods so as not to weaken the plant.

Unlike many other plants azalea during flowering can be rotated and moved, the buds will not fall off from this. With careful care, the azalea blooms more and more magnificently from year to year.

ADVICE: In order for the buds to develop and bloom, it is necessary to monitor the appearance of new shoots next to them, and remove them.

Azalea crown formation

Flower buds of indoor azaleas form at the tops of the shoots in late summer. In order for the plant to bloom beautifully, it is important to cut it in time so that as many tops as possible form on it. And do not be late with this pruning, otherwise the flower buds will not have time to form on them, and the flowering will be weak.

The purpose of this formation is get a plant with a beautiful voluminous crown and evenly laid buds. There are two main types of crown in azaleas: - in the form small tree or bush.

To form a tree, you need to choose the most even and strong branch from a small azalea bush and grow a trunk from it, cut off all other shoots. To keep the trunk as straight as possible, tie it to a support and constantly rotate it around the axis.

As soon as the trunk reaches the size you need, pin the top. Then the tree will begin to branch. Then you need to periodically turn the plant, pinch the side branches in time and you will get a crown formed in the form of a ball.

Pruning is necessary for early varieties not later than March - April, in the later ones - in May - June. In general, annual pruning comes down to the fact that all shoots of the previous year are shortened and excess, weak or very closely spaced branches are completely removed.

To form a bush, the stalk is pinched at a distance of 10-12 cm from the ground, the tops of the side branches are also pinched and the bush is turned so that the branches grow evenly.

Azalea breeding

Azalea is propagated by seeds, cuttings, dividing the bush and grafting. Reproduction by seeds is a laborious and complex process, which is most often used by professional flower growers for the cultivation of new varieties.

Reproduction by cuttings

At home, the azalea is propagated by semi-woody stem cuttings. Azalea rooting is difficult. The stalk is taken 5-8 cm long, semi-woody.

Green cutting will quickly wither, and the old stiff one takes root for a very long time. Cuttings can be cut from the middle of winter, but spring-summer cuttings (from March to June) give the best results.

They breed from May to August. Rooting occurs faster and better in an acidic substrate, such as coniferous soil or sphagnum peat.

Fresh cuts of cuttings are treated with root formation stimulants, pollinated with growth substances, planted vertically to a depth of 1-2.5 cm. Cover with a glass jar or plastic wrap, water and spray regularly.

Optimum temperature for rooting 25C. Cuttings take root in 3-5 weeks.

Azaleas are most often propagated by cuttings, but this is a very long and troublesome occupation, so azaleas are most often bought in a store. If you still want to try to get an azalea from a cutting, then you must follow the following rules:

• for cuttings, young shoots are taken that are not yet completely stiff;
• length of cuttings from 10 to 15 cm;
• the stalk is cut off with a sharp knife or blade under the kidney;
• leaves from the bottom of the cutting are removed;
• the cutting is placed in a bowl with wet peat to a depth of approximately 5 cm;
• the ground around the cutting is well crushed;
• the planted stalk is covered with a jar, polyethylene or placed in a greenhouse;
• rooting requires high humidity and a temperature of about +25 degrees;
• cuttings should be sprayed and ventilated regularly (up to 3 times a day) so that they do not rot.

Cuttings take root for about six months. After rooting, azaleas are transplanted to a permanent place and cared for as described above. For azalea, reproduction is also possible by layering, which you can try to root. To do this, a small incision is made on the lateral shoot under the kidney. Above such a kidney should be one pair of leaves. After that, the layers are pinned to the ground with a wooden hook and sprinkled with soil. They wait for the plant to take root, after which, carefully, so as not to damage the roots, separate the cuttings from the mother plant and transplant them into their own pot.

Bush division

You can also divide an azalea bush that is already 3-4 years old into several parts. The roots of the plant are thin, superficial, so you need to share with all caution.

Diseases and pests

Azaleas are susceptible to damage by Aealia moth, greenhouse whitefly, mealybug, as well as some other types of insects, mites and mollusks.

Aealia moth (Caloptilia azaleella)- a specific pest of azalea. Damaged leaves dry up, crumble and fall off. Adult caterpillars crawl onto neighboring healthy leaves, fold them into tubes and continue their growth there.

greenhouse whitefly damage to azaleas leaves. A sooty fungus settles on the sugary secretions of the whitefly. In addition, the whitefly can be a carrier of some viral diseases. flower crops.

Dangerous for azaleas aphids and greenhouse thrips.

strawberry mite- one of the most dangerous pests azaleas. Young leaves fold inward in the form of a boat, instead of 1-2 large buds, numerous small ones are formed. Plants slow down growth and gradually die.

The flat red mite damages cuttings, queen cells and adult plants. The leaves turn brown, wither and fall off.

Rhododendrons are prone to a host of diseases. This and powdery mildew, and gray rot, and rust, and fusarium, all kinds of mosaics and many other diseases. Against all these misfortunes, various chemicals.

How to choose an azalea in a store

When buying an azalea, you should pay attention to medium-sized plants. Large specimens are quite difficult to adapt to new conditions, and small ones may not have enough strength. It is necessary to carefully examine each leaflet. They should not have cobwebs, spots or insects.

It is recommended to buy an azalea with buds or already faded. If there are dry leaves, this indicates that the plant is overdried. In this case, it is likely that it may die. If the azalea has large dark green leaves, this may indicate that the azalea is being fed with hormones. In this case, you should refuse to buy. The plant needs to be shaken a little and see that the leaves do not fall off.

With proper care, the azalea blooms very beautifully and is able to cheer up the owner and relieve him of depression.

Useful video

Nelli Murashkina knows the secrets of care behind the azalea. So that at the first transplant of flowers, they do not die:

Another video with useful tips on caring for azalea:

Azalea is a spectacular and unusually attractive plant. However, it is extremely difficult to grow. No matter how capricious the azalea is, home care for it is possible. The main thing is to remember and clearly follow the basic rules of agricultural technology, which will help create conditions suitable for a whimsical beauty.

Azalea is the name used to refer to a group of plants in the genus Rhododendron. The usual indoor azalea is Sims' rhododendron (Indian) or blunt rhododendron (Japanese). Both are able to grow only in conditions close to natural. In nature, they grow on acidic soils in areas with a rainy cool climate - mainly mountain forests. Therefore, caring for azalea in indoor floriculture comes down to recreating them as accurately as possible.

In the more common Indian azalea, the leaves are leathery, up to 3.5 cm long, ovate, pubescent below. Flowers in the form of a wide funnel, from 3.5 to 5 cm in diameter. Japanese azalea is distinguished by narrower lanceolate shiny glossy leaves up to 5 cm long. Flowers of the same shape, but smaller - a maximum of 3 cm in diameter. Flowering occurs during the winter months. Both species are low, up to 50 cm, highly branched shrubs.

Azalea varieties

Through the efforts of breeders, varieties with larger flowers and a variety of colors have been bred; ampelous and pyramidal forms of the bush. The azalea standard quickly gained recognition, which can be shaped like a bonsai. The most popular "ancestor" was precisely the Indian azalea, or indica azalea, which naturally has a wider range of flower colors: there are not only tonal whites and pinks or purples, but also bicolors.

Among the popular varieties is Stella Maris with semi-double white flowers and cherry speck at the base of the two upper petals. Azalea Ambrosus is distinguished by large terry rich crimson bell flowers.

How to care for an azalea

Despite the fact that azalea indica mix rarely survives at home, it is classified as a plant with medium complexity of agricultural technology. Azalea care is problematic in terms of recreating the right humidity and temperature. Otherwise, it is not more capricious than other "inhabitants" of window sills.

Lighting

The light is bright but diffused. For growing home azalea, eastern and western window sills are more suitable. Direct sunlight leaves burns on the leaves, so it is not recommended to place it on the southern windows.

Like any flowering indoor flower, azalea suffers from a lack of light on north-facing windows. If more suitable place no, the plant is provided with additional illumination. In the warm season, the azalea, if possible, is taken out into the street and placed in partial shade.

Temperature regime

The temperature regime is the most difficult moment for caring for a room azalea at home.

Such conditions are quite simple to provide to the owners of private houses. Azaleas are taken outside in the spring, and brought in in the fall, after the first frost. On the fresh air it is easier for the plant to put up with an increase in temperature. In autumn, after a cold "stress", the azalea blooms immediately after moving into the house, provided that there is a cool place for it here too.

Owners of apartments in which air conditioners are installed can place plants in the immediate vicinity of them. For those who live in apartments without it, there are two ways to maintain the required air temperature - ice and cool water. The pot is covered with ice, the leaves are regularly sprayed with cold water. In the autumn, during the laying of the kidneys, the azalea is taken out to the closed loggias.

Air humidity

When growing azaleas, it is required to maintain a high - 60-80 percent of air humidity. Maintain on such indicators this parameter in an apartment environment is quite difficult. The best way is to place a humidifier next to the rhododendron. You can spray the azalea with a spray bottle. This should only be done in the morning! For spraying use settled (not boiled) water.

You can additionally increase the humidity around the bush by placing the pot in a pan with water and expanded clay. Expanded clay in this case prevents the contact of the pot with water and contributes to a more uniform evaporation of moisture.

It is important to remember that the hot air from the batteries quickly lowers the humidity, which leads to drying and death of the leaves. Therefore, during the heating period, it is better to place the azalea in the depths of the premises, providing it with additional illumination.

How to water an azalea

The azalea is also very demanding for watering: it must be abundant spring and summer, moderate autumn and winter, exclusively in the morning! With high moisture consumption, it does not tolerate stagnant water. Between watering, the top layer of the earthy coma should dry out.

The quality of water also matters: lime and chlorine are detrimental to rhododendron. Absolutely not to be used boiled water for watering ( best option- rain, melt, spring). If it is not possible to get it, tap water is defended in a wide open dish for three days.

You can use top or bottom watering. In both cases, excess water from the pan must be drained. Azaleas are watered only in the early morning. If for some reason you missed this time, it is better to leave the plant dry until the next day. Untimely watering kills him.

Fertilization

Fertilizers are applied twice a month. Like any houseplant, azalea needs additional feeding. Fertilizer for rhododendrons should in no case contain chlorine. During the active set of green mass, preference is given to universal fertilizers (nitrogen is more or the same as phosphorus and potassium).

During budding, the plant is “helped” with top dressing based on double superphosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), which contributes to abundant flowering. The rest of the time, fertilizer is used for flowering plants (phosphorus and potassium should be more than nitrogen). Azalea responds well to treatments with Epin or Zircon (1 ml per 1 liter of water) “by leaf”. These stimulants will help her gain strength for flowering or survive an unfavorable period - heat or transplant.

Cutting and pinching

Timely pruning and pinching of the stems is important both for the formation of the bush and for long-term abundant flowering.

The first pruning is carried out in May. Remove both weak and strongly overgrown shoots, especially if they are turned inside the bush. They are pinched so that 4-5 buds remain on each.

It is worth considering that this pruning will form future view bush, so the place of the cut on each shoot is chosen so that the upper bud does not look inward, but outward. It should be remembered that the more branched the bush is, the weaker the flowering will be.

The second pruning is done after the buds are laid, removing the young shoots that have appeared below the flower buds and the “fatting” shoots. After flowering, azalea care comes down to the timely removal of wilted flowers. During pinching and pruning, it is worth remembering that all parts of the azalea are poisonous: if it gets on the skin, its juice causes irritation.

Post-Purchase Care

When buying, choose bushes without traces of cobwebs on the stems, dry or yellowed leaves with large quantity unopened buds. So you can enjoy flowering longer.

But if you want to grow indoor azalea even after it has finished flowering, it needs special care right after the purchase:

1. Within two weeks, treat the bush twice with an equal interval with any insecticide-acaricide (for example, Fitoverm or Akarin). Flowers from "Holland", as they are called, are often infested with mites and other pests. Even if there are no external signs, after a month they can “suddenly” appear - and the plant will quickly die. So it's better to play it safe.
2. Simultaneously with pest control, they are treated with stimulants (Epin or Zircon), which will help the azalea survive a sharp change in conditions of detention and prepare for a future transplant. If you use biological insecticides, stimulants can be added directly to the working solution.
3. Most flowers are removed.
4. After two weeks, the plant is transferred to a pot, larger by 1 size. The roots are partially (along the edges) freed from the soil and viewed for the presence of rot.
5. The plant is placed in semi-greenhouse conditions for another 2 weeks.

If the transplant and care after the purchase will lead to the growth of new shoots, then the adaptation was successful, and the green pet will delight you for more than one year.

Care during the flowering period

Azalea care at home during the flowering period differs slightly:

• young shoots appearing on flowering stems must be removed;
• for top dressing choose a fertilizer with a predominance of potassium and phosphorus;
• it is important to pluck wilted flowers immediately, otherwise they will continue to "pull" nutrients from the plant.

Azalea does not drop buds if it is expanded or rearranged to another place during flowering. She drinks more water at this time, which must be taken into account when watering. Young plants at the end of flowering are transferred to a large container. Care after flowering differs only in the change of fertilizer and a slight reduction in watering.

How to propagate azalea at home

Reproduction of azalea at home is an extremely complicated process. This can be done in one of 4 ways: cuttings, dividing the bush, grafting or seeds. The last two ways azalea reproduces only in professional greenhouses (they are used to obtain new varieties).

For cuttings, semi-lignified apical parts of stems no more than 10 cm long are used, which are not cut, but broken off. Only used as mother healthy plant. The lower leaves are removed, planting material is treated with root formation stimulants (Kornevin, Cytokinin paste). The stalk is placed in acidic peat so that the lower 2 buds are covered by it. Then it is placed in a greenhouse. Root germination occurs only at a temperature of 25 degrees and the presence of lower heating. The process can take up to six months. All this time, the greenhouses are regularly ventilated, the cuttings are sprayed with water from a spray bottle.

It is much easier to propagate azalea by division. For this, adults (3-4 years old), healthy bushes are cut in two during transplantation. The roots of the delenok "unravel" very carefully. For their planting, close pots are used and placed in a greenhouse until young shoots begin to appear. In winter and autumn, cuttings or division are not carried out.

Transfer

Azalea transplantation at home is done annually after flowering, if the plant is young, and once every 2-3 years, if the plant is adult. Owners of private houses can plant indoor azalea in open ground in the spring, and move it to a pot in the fall.

The root system of the azalea does not tolerate stress well, therefore, 2 weeks before transplanting, the plant is treated with Epin or Zircon. If you need to change the pot to a more suitable size, they are limited to transshipment.

Choosing a pot and suitable soil

The root system of the rhododendron is superficial, so wide, low containers are chosen for it. Azalea soil should be acidic (pH 4-4.5). It can be a mixture of 1 part of high-moor (quick-slaked) peat with 2 parts of coniferous land. A little washed river sand is necessarily added to the mixture, which helps prevent moisture stagnation.

You can purchase a ready-made substrate "For Azaleas", which will contain all the necessary components.

Transplant process

The bush is carefully taken out of the old pot, trying not to disturb the earthen ball. Place it in a new container with pre-filled drainage and a small layer of fresh soil; top and sides add the required amount of substrate, water abundantly. With a planned transplant of azalea, the diameter of the pot is increased by 1, maximum by 2 sizes.

If part of the root system has begun to rot, you will have to clean the roots from the soil. The parts affected by rot are cut off, the sections are sprinkled with crushed charcoal. After transplanting, the bush is placed in a greenhouse. It is not recommended to transplant an azalea before flowering or during the budding process, unless the plant needs to be urgently "saved": in this case, the buds are removed.

Diseases and pests

Among the pests of the azalea, there is a mealybug, scale insect, aphid, whitefly, thrips, azalea moth. The spider mite "loves" rhododendrons very much. A plant infected with pests quickly loses leaves and dies.

If you know that the azalea has not dried up and has not stood near the battery lately, and the leaves are crumbling "before our eyes" - immediately start processing insecticides-acaricides.

There are diseases such as fusarium, powdery mildew, gray rot. They appear in the form of spots on the stems, rotten leaves. Fungal diseases of the azalea are "treated" with Fundazol or copper chloride.

Growing problems

The most common difficulty that owners of roddendrons face at home is the lack of budding. Azaleas usually don't bloom when they're hot. Flowering must be preceded by a period of cold content. It can also be affected by a lack of light or mineral fertilizers. In order for the azalea to bloom regularly and luxuriantly, observe agricultural practices.

There are also other difficulties:

1. Azalea leaves are falling. The reason may lie in the use of clay substrates, the presence of clay or chlorine in the water. Use only suitable soil and carefully defend the water.
2. Leaves fall off most often due to increased air temperature. Move the plant to a cool place.
3. Azalea leaves turn yellow: perhaps direct sunlight fell on them - shade the plant.
4. Leaves wrinkle. The reason may be insufficient watering or low humidity. Make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out completely, spray the bush.
5. A short flowering period can be caused by insufficient watering, too much sun, high temperatures, or hot air from batteries. Provide the plant with the right conditions.

Expert opinion

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Azalea - quite capricious home plant, but with thorough observance of all the rules of agricultural technology, it will grow and bloom, delighting its owners.

The result of mistakes made in the care of the azalea can be the defeat of its parts and premature death. So, due to low air temperature, the plant dies main axis leaf, the leaves turn brown and cannot be restored.

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Due to excessive watering and lack of top dressing, the plant develops mixed chlorosis in a few months, as a result of which the tips of the leaves turn yellow and dry. Also, due to improper care, the development of fungal diseases occurs. In summer, the temperature should be + 20-22 ° C, during the laying of flower buds - + 6-8 ° C, and after the appearance of buds - + 12-16 ° C.

Azalea prefers high humidity. In summer, it can not be increased artificially, and in winter, the air around the plant should be sprayed and containers with water should be placed nearby. Watering should be limited during the budding period, then resumed as usual.

During flowering, you can not spray the azalea - spots remain on the petals, the flowers rot and fall off.

The plant needs a lot of light, but it is necessary to exclude direct sunlight from falling on it.

Pruning and rejuvenation

To maintain the compactness of the plant, it is necessary to prune annually, removing weak, long and old shoots. You should also remove branches growing deep into the bush so that they do not obscure the plant and do not interfere with the formation of buds.

Where can you buy a plant?

You can buy azalea in nurseries, specialized stores or order online. The cost of a flower ranges from 200 to 3 thousand rubles. depending on the variety of azalea, the size of the flower and its root system and the number of buds.

What pot is needed for the plant?

Indoor azalea has a superficial root system, so the flowerpot for it needs a wide and flat. When transplanting, a new container should be larger than the previous one; it can be plastic or clay.

In order to avoid root decay, the flowerpot should have holes for drainage, and a drainage layer of ceramic shards or expanded clay with pieces of pine or spruce bark should be laid on its bottom to constantly acidify the soil.

What kind of soil is needed?

The plant needs loose soil with good aeration and moisture permeability. The soil should be acidic (pH 3.5-5).

It is better for beginner flower growers to use special soil purchased at the store, it can be Terra Vita, Azalea, Fasco, Garden of Miracles, World of Soils, Rich Land.

You can prepare the soil mixture yourself by mixing:

• 2 parts of coniferous land;
• 2 pieces of leafy land;
• 1 part peat;
• 1 part of heather land;
• 1 part river sand

Before use, the earth mixture must be calcined, frozen or spilled with a solution of potassium permanganate - this will help get rid of pests and microorganisms.

Transplant at home

Transplanting should be done in the spring. You can not disturb the azalea during flowering or budding, otherwise the plant will drop leaves, flowers and buds.

Reasons for transplant:

• disease;
• the pot has become small for the root system;
• 2 weeks have passed since the purchase.

A young plant needs an annual transplant, then the procedure is carried out 1 time in 2-3 years.

Transplant instructions:

• cut dry branches, remove dried buds and leaves;
• remove the plant from the flowerpot and lower its roots along with the soil into water with biostimulants to remove the old soil and wash out the salts;
• make cuts of 0.5 cm in an earthen coma from above, below and on the sides, so that the flower receives the elements necessary for taking root in the new soil;
• put the plant in the center of the container, sprinkle with soil so that the root neck does not go deep into the ground and lightly tamp the soil.

After transplanting, water the plant, put it in a warm, well-lit place where it will not get direct sunlight and there will be no drafts for about 12 days. Re-watering is carried out after 4 days.

What to do immediately after buying a flower?

After acquiring a flower, it is necessary to adapt it to new conditions. It is necessary to inspect the soil and, if mold is found, treat it with fungicides ("Tsineb", "Agat", "Gamair") or a solution of manganese. If the soil is too dry, you should place the pot with the plant in a container of water for 20-25 minutes.

It is necessary to place the azalea in a shaded place at a temperature not exceeding +18 ° C, gradually accustoming to a new light regime and regularly spraying the flower to increase humidity.

At home, azalea must be isolated from other plants for 2 weeks to avoid possible infection.

After 14 days, the plant needs to be transplanted into a new soil and flowerpot, since the containers in which the plants are sold are not suitable for the proper development of the roots, and the substrate contains many chemical stimulants that provoke lush flowering, but inhibit the development of the root system and green mass.

Reproduction

Azalea is propagated by cuttings, dividing the bush and seeds.
To breed a flower you will need:

• the soil;
• flowerpot;
• sharp knife or blade;
• bank or package;
• charcoal or activated charcoal;
• growth stimulator - "Zircon" or "Kornevin";
• spray.

cuttings

Cuttings must be cut in the spring, while pruning the plant.
For cuttings you need:

• using a sharp object, cut cuttings 5–15 cm long from semi-lignified stem shoots;
• make an oblique cut under the kidney, remove half of the leaves;
• treat the cut points with crushed wood or activated charcoal;
• soak the cuttings in a growth stimulator ("Zircon" or "Kornevin");
• place them in the prepared soil, deepening by 2.5 cm and covering with a jar or bag to maintain the required humidity;
• ventilate the "greenhouse" daily, and moisten the soil - 1 time in 2-3 days;
• keep the container with the cuttings in a well-lit place at a temperature of +25 ºC;
• after the appearance of the first shoots, remove the jar or package.

After full rooting, the cuttings must be planted in separate flowerpots.

By dividing the bush

The simplest and most commonly used method of growing azaleas. When the plant reaches 3 years, during transplantation, carefully, so as not to damage the roots, divide the rhizome into parts. After that, delenki with several roots and shoots should be planted in flowerpots with prepared soil and kept in a dark room for a week.

Seeds

Most difficult way azalea breeding, used in breeding new plant varieties.

For seed propagation need to:

• sow seeds in early spring on the surface of moist soil, without sprinkling on top;
• do not water the soil, but gently spray it with a spray bottle;
• cover the container with glass or polyethylene and put it in a lighted place;
• ventilate the "greenhouse" daily;
• when the cotyledon leaves begin to unfold, the seedlings need to dive.

For irrigation of seedlings it is necessary to use only soft water at room temperature. To soften 10 liters of hard water, 3 grams of sulfuric or oxalic acid will be required.

Fertilizer and top dressing

Mineral fertilizers are suitable for feeding azalea, the main thing is to make sure that the composition does not contain chlorine that can kill the plant. To minimize difficulties and problems, it is recommended to use Azalea fertilizer purchased from a specialized store. You can also use fertilizers for decorative flowers, such as Lux or Fertika.

V spring-summer period fertilizers should be applied once a week, and in autumn and winter, reduce the number of top dressings to 1 time per month.

When the period of budding and flowering begins, it is necessary to use phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to feed the azalea, such as Kemira-Lux or Uniflor-Buton.

For additional nutrition of the plant, you can use superphosphate by diluting 15 grams of the product in 1 liter of water.

Watering

The soil in the flowerpot should always be moist, it should not be allowed to dry out.

The plant needs to be watered every 2 days, and at high room temperatures - twice a day, with small portions of water, making sure that it does not accumulate in the pan, otherwise the root system will rot and the flower will die.

When the earthen coma dries up, you need to lower the container with the azalea into the water for several hours so that the roots are saturated with moisture.

To prevent the leaves from drying out, spraying is carried out every 2-3.

The soil needs periodic acidification, so a solution consisting of 1 liter of water and 0.3-0.4 grams of citric or ascorbic acid is used for irrigation 2 times a month.

For irrigation and spraying, cool melted, settled or filtered water that does not contain chlorine is used.

If you are going on vacation

It is necessary to put a foam rubber mat on the bottom of the container with water, and put a flowerpot with a plant on it, after not plugging it too tightly with foam rubber drain holes.

Growing problems

Why doesn't it bloom?

Azalea diseases

Name	signs	How to fight?
Fusarium	Yellowing, wilting and falling of the leaves of the flower, the presence of a pink coating on the root collar.	Treat the azalea with a 0.2% solution of "Fundazol".
Late blight, or root rot	The roots rot, which leads to discoloration, curling and drying of the leaves and death of the buds.	Increase the air permeability of the soil, treat with Fitoverm or Bordeaux mixture.
Phyllosticosis	The appearance on the leaves of dark brown or ash-gray spots with a brown border with dropping sporangia balls.	Remove the affected parts of the plant, treat with 0.2% Fundazol solution and 0.15% Topsin-M solution.
Cercospora	The appearance of dark brown spots with a red border on the lower part of the sheet, and a gray coating on the upper part.	Use Fundazol and Ditan M-45, alternating means.

Flowering may not occur due to the lack of timely pruning, too rare watering and non-compliance with the temperature regime.

Pests

Pest	How to discover?	How to fight?
Rhododendron bug	Winged insect 3-3.5 mm in size. The bug lays its eggs on the reverse side of the leaf plates and covers them with resinous secretions. Caterpillars and larvae of the pest feed on the sap of the plant, yellowing and twisting of the leaves are observed.	Use insecticides "Decis" or "Fury".
Azalea moth	The leaves dry up and fall off. As the caterpillars grow, they wrap themselves in leaves.	Use fumigation or spraying with sulfur.
spider mite	The leaves become brown-gray, fall off, a web appears on the lower part.	Treat the azalea with soapy water, apply Agravertin or Actellik.
furrowed weevil	The insect infects the roots, causing the plant to wither and die.	Apply "Karbafos" or "Bazudin".

Leaf problems

• The leaves turn yellow and fall off - a lack or excess of moisture, or the result of exposure to sunlight.
• Wrinkled leaves - insufficient watering or low level humidity.
• Yellowing of leaf plates - the plant is planted in clay soil or tap water is used for irrigation.

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AZALEA ROOM. GROWING, CARE AND ILLNESS