In what sequence to insulate the walls on the loggia. How to insulate a balcony with your own hands: from the refrigerator to a warm island

Balcony insulation technology consists in performing work, which is conventionally divided into three components: performing the process of warming the floor, fencing and ceiling.

An important factor is the choice of the type of glazing. In order for the thermal insulation to be equipped at the proper level, double-glazed windows must be energy-efficient and have at least two chambers. Let's consider in more detail the process of warming a balcony and loggia with our own hands.

Features of the warming process

We begin work on insulating a loggia or balcony with glazing. Since the room is insulated in order to use it in the future at any time of the year, we choose two-chamber and three-chamber double-glazed windows. Of course, the latter option is expensive, but the result justifies the cost.

Do not forget about sunny summer days, especially if the balcony faces south. Often in such cases, you want to protect yourself from direct sunlight. Therefore, it is better to take tinted glass. Usually, the installation of glazing is carried out by the workers of the company in which the windows are ordered. We recommend that you check the quality of the work performed according to the following parameters:

  • reliability of window installation;
  • the quality of sealing the seams around the window.

Problem places

Take shots to the corners

The loggia insulation technology contains many nuances that must be taken into account when performing the thermal insulation process. First of all, we turn our attention to how well all the seams, joints and cracks are processed after the glazing process.

Particular attention should be paid to the corners. If the listed work is performed poorly, then cold air and moisture will penetrate through the weak points.


Level and fill brick walls

All this will lead to significant heat loss, and the temperature difference and the presence of moisture will cause the occurrence of fungus. Reliable sealing is performed using polyurethane foam.

To eliminate this problem, it is necessary to carry out the process of filling the walls with an adhesive mixture for tiles.

To identify problem areas, that is, the existence of gaps, you can use a burning candle. A candle flame will unmistakably indicate the presence of defects in the sealing.

Insulation material

The construction market offers a fairly large selection of material that can be used to insulate a loggia or balcony with your own hands. Insulation materials are of good quality, varying in thickness and structure.

Materials are easy to select in accordance with the individual requirements of each consumer. These include expanded polystyrene, glass wool, mineral wool, and more. When choosing a heater, you should rely on the following factors:

  • climatic conditions;
  • insulation of a loggia or balcony;
  • insulation of a balcony or loggia in case of joining a room.

With the usual insulation of the balcony, you can purchase insulation with a thickness of 3 cm.When joining a room, you must take insulation with a thickness of 5 cm.

Consider several insulation options using various insulation materials.

Insulation with expanded polystyrene and isolon


Expanded polystyrene

The technology of insulating a balcony or loggia using expanded polystyrene consists of the following stages. First of all, we start with the installation of insulation on the surface of the floor, walls and ceiling.

For fixing insulation boards, an adhesive mixture is used, which is usually used for tiles. Installation is carried out in the following order:

  • prepare an adhesive mixture according to the instructions;
  • using a notched trowel, apply the mixture to the surface and glue the insulation plate;
  • until the mixture has frozen, we fix the plates with special fixing dowels;
  • upon completion of fixing the insulation plates, we process the joints with polyurethane foam.

The mounting foam will provide reliable sealing of joints and thermal insulation inside the room, which will not allow the penetration of cold and moisture at any time of the year.


Izolon

The next type of insulation is foil-clad isolon. In this insulation, the front side is the one that is covered with foil. When insulating a balcony, we use Isolon, the thickness of which is 10 mm.

When laying it, do not overlap. It is recommended to arrange the insulation material end-to-end and to connect the sheets together with adhesive tape on an aluminum base on the front part.

Wall and ceiling cladding

After the installation of the insulation is completed, the surface cladding is started. But in this case, you need to pay attention to some features. Walls and ceilings must not be faced directly with insulation. You must first equip the air gap. It must be at least 15 mm thick.

To ensure it, a frame is built. The material for such a frame can be a metal profile, a wooden beam or slats. The slats are placed horizontally and vertically. Check the placement using a level. Fastened with dowels. After the frame is ready, the facing material is already attached to it. For more information on wall cladding, see this video:

Features of floor insulation

Floor insulation technology has its own characteristics. Before proceeding with the installation of thermal insulation, it is necessary to equip a flat screed on the balcony.

This will ensure a snug fit of the insulation to the floor surface. After laying the insulation and sealing the joints, perform another screed over the insulation. It must be at least 50 mm.

When arranging a re-screed, it is necessary to carry out reinforcement. A mesh mesh of 100 x 100 mm is used.

Next, you can perform the floor cladding. Often, a warm floor is installed on balconies and loggias. Otherwise, you should think about other heating options. For more information on floor insulation, see this video:

Removing the battery to the balcony requires special permission from the relevant services.

Mineral wool insulation technology

The process of insulating a balcony with the technology of laying mineral wool begins with the installation of a frame made of wooden or aluminum guides.

The void between the frame guides is filled with mineral insulation. After installing the mineral wool, the frame is sewn up using drywall or plastic.

Let's pay attention to some important points:

  • the frame guides should be stirred at a distance equal to the width of the insulation;
  • it is imperative that waterproofing is carried out before the installation of insulation, and vapor barrier is carried out before sheathing.

We draw attention to the need for external sheathing of the balcony or loggia fence. It is best to use profiled sheets or siding for this. For more information on the exterior decoration of the balcony, see this video:

When arranging the insulation of your balcony or loggia with your own hands, you need to use a technology that is optimal for all characteristics.

Residents of apartments with balconies and loggias have the opportunity to increase their usable area. And it is obvious that the expansion of space should start with warm glazing, and then insulation.

High-quality thermal insulation must be provided to the walls, floor and ceiling of the loggia.

We are in a hurry to disappoint those who believe that energy-efficient double-glazed windows and an additional battery are enough to insulate a balcony / loggia. Loggia, and even a glazed balcony, especially in any residential building, are not designed for comfortable conditions for a person in cold weather. It is cold there in late autumn, winter and early spring.

All these troubles are eliminated by heating together with an effective insulation, which will ensure normal room air temperature in the balcony / loggia room and the room or kitchen combined with it at any time of the year. The optimal choice of insulation will be high-quality and efficient thermal insulation boards of the brand made of extruded polystyrene foam.

Advantages of PENOPLEX COMFORT ® boards when insulating a loggia:

Low coefficient of thermal conductivity up to 0.034 W / m K - provides high-quality thermal protection even with small thickness. Zero water absorption - prevents dampness, mold and mildew growth.

Insulation of the balcony / loggia from the inside with high-quality PENOPLEX COMFORT ® is within the power of any person who is not afraid of work. You should not be afraid of the unpleasant consequences that sometimes overwhelm us in contact with some building materials. PENOPLEX ® boards are environmentally friendly and safe for health. They are made from general-purpose polystyrene, which is also widely used for the production of food and medical packaging, children's toys, and refrigerator parts.

PENOPLEX ® does not contain fine fibers, dust, phenol-formaldehyde resins, soot, slags. Therefore, working with PENOPLEX ® does not require respiratory and skin protection. Freons are not used in its manufacture.

The safety of using PENOPLEX® thermal insulation in an apartment is confirmed

Many more will cope with the insulation of a balcony / loggia with their own hands, because PENOPLEX ® is easy to install. The slabs have optimal geometry - there are L-shaped edges on all sides, which makes them easy to join.

How to insulate a balcony / loggia using PENOPLEX COMFORT ® with your own hands

To insulate a balcony / loggia with your own hands, you will need the following materials:

  • Thermal insulation PENOPLEKS COMFORT ®. The required thickness for a combined loggia in the central regions of Russia is 100 mm. The thickness can be calculated using our.
  • Moisture resistant gypsum plasterboard (GKL) or gypsum fiber (GVL) sheets.
  • For the installation of screed on PENOPLEX® slabs, a cement-sand mixture with a reinforcing mesh is required for a "wet" coating; or board materials for "dry" coating - two layers of board materials such as gypsum fiber board, particle board, OSB or plywood overlapping joints.
  • Foil-clad polyethylene film is often used to create a vapor barrier.
  • PENOPLEX ® FASTFIX ® polyurethane adhesive.
  • Self-tapping screws for fixing sheets of gypsum board, gypsum plasterboard to the guides.


  1. Glazing of the balcony / loggia
  2. Balcony / loggia wall
  3. Thermal insulation PENOPLEX COMFORT®
  4. Vapor barrier
  5. Lathing
  6. Finishing the walls (plastic panels or moisture-resistant plasterboard)
  7. Fastening element
  8. Screed for finishing the floor
  9. Finishing the floor
  10. Balcony / loggia floor.

The sequence of loggia insulation using PENOPLEX COMFORT ®

  • Window blocks are installed. The optimal means of sealing seams will be polyurethane foam.
  • PENOPLEX COMFORT ® boards are fixed with polyurethane glue, which is also used to process joints between structures.
  • The vapor barrier - foil-clad plastic film - is attached using double-sided tape. The vapor barrier is placed end-to-end, while the joint between the canvases and structures is glued with metal tape.
  • We mount the balcony floor.

In the photo - insulation of the loggia with PENOPLEX plates ® in the apartment of the actress Marina Dyuzheva

The following bases can be laid on PENOPLEX ® thermal insulation:

Cement-sand screed (thickness 4 cm). A temperature gap of 1 cm must be left between the vertical wall and the screed. To do this, it is enough to install a strip of foamed PE with a thickness of 1 cm around the perimeter before pouring the screed. After the screed has hardened, the finishing layer is laid.

DSP screed with electric heating - according to the technology of the system device.

Continuous flooring made of gypsum fiber board (gypsum fiber sheets) - arranged in two layers with a mandatory overlap of the joints.

  • The lathing on the walls, ceiling and parapet is made of dry wooden (treated with an antiseptic) slats and is placed on vertical and horizontal levels. Attaches directly to concrete with dowels and self-tapping screws. The slats can be 40x20 mm in size.
  • Finishing is attached to the crate. Usually these are plastic panels 25 cm wide or moisture resistant drywall. In the case of using drywall, additional finishing work is required, namely: priming, putty, corner treatment, leveling, wallpapering or painting.
  • The loggia can be equipped with electric heaters, lighting, etc. The electrical wiring is installed in non-combustible boxes before the interior trim.

Many tenants of apartment buildings are faced with the problem of a shortage of square meters. An excellent solution to this issue can be an independent insulation of the loggia. This is a painstaking business, requiring certain construction skills and time from the contractor. However, the finished result is worth it. A warm balcony expands the possibilities of using space, "ennobles" the living space and can become the pride of a home craftsman.

The need to insulate the loggia

Each apartment owner decides for himself how to use the additional square meters of the loggia. Some equip a pantry or workshop on the balcony, others operate the premises more rationally - they create a "winter garden" or a separate room. The insulated loggia can be converted into a cozy place for rest, work, a compact gym or an area for children's creativity.

In addition, an insulated balcony solves a number of problems:

  • the heat loss of the premises and the cost of heating the apartment are reduced;
  • reduces the risk of mold on the walls of the balcony.

External or internal insulation can be done. The obvious advantages of the outdoor method:

  • useful area is not "eaten up";
  • simplification of interior wall decoration.

A significant advantage of internal insulation is the ability to perform work on your own without hiring workers.

The choice of thermal insulation material

Various heat-insulating materials are used as insulation, ranging from traditional, inexpensive, and ending with modern high-tech ones. To insulate the loggia from the inside, it is better to use thin, lightweight materials. Thanks to their small width, it will be possible to save useful space.

Consider the characteristics of the main thermal insulation materials for warming a loggia / balcony.

Foil-clad polyethylene foam - a layer of foil is applied to one side of the polyethylene, which reflects the IF radiation and "throws" heat fluxes back. Insulation characteristics:

  • roll width - 1 m, thickness - 2-5 cm;
  • ease of installation - the polyethylene foam sheet is easily cut with a knife;
  • laying method - end-to-end or overlapping;
  • the effectiveness of thermal insulation is almost doubled;
  • the material is used to insulate the ceiling and walls.

Warming the loggia: step by step instructions. Penofol use

Mineral wool has good thermal insulation properties and an affordable cost. However, experts do not recommend using this material for insulating a loggia for a number of reasons:

  • poor moisture resistance - mineral wool absorbs liquid, so you will have to additionally strengthen the waterproofing;
  • when using mineral wool, natural ventilation is required - a gap must be left above the insulation, which slightly "hides" the area of ​​the balcony;
  • for facing the loggia, you will need wall reinforcement and additional measures.

Polyfoam - foamed plastic of various densities. The bulk of the material is gas. Polyfoam has the following characteristics:

  • slab size - 1 * 1 m;
  • insulation thickness 2-10 cm;
  • foam density - 15 or 25 kg / sq. cm;
  • durability.

Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex) is a modern heat insulator, reminiscent of polystyrene, but characterized by a more durable structure and functionality. Properties of expanded polystyrene:

  • rectangular plates 1200 * 600 mm;
  • thickness - 2-10 cm;
  • foam density - 35-45 kg / sq. cm;
  • vapor permeability;
  • frost resistance;
  • slabs are chamfered for tighter laying;
  • light weight and ease of installation;
  • flammability class - G-1;
  • the material is not used in open places where UV rays penetrate.

Do-it-yourself loggia insulation: step-by-step instructions. Penoplex installation photo

Insulation fastening methods

The choice of the method of insulation, first of all, depends on the used heat-insulating material and the further decoration of the walls.

Insulation for putty and plaster is suitable when using foam or polystyrene foam. Thermal insulation panels are glued to the base with tile adhesive. Plates are additionally fixed with dowel mushrooms. You can start plastering / filling walls or ceilings one day after installing the insulation.

Foil-clad polyethylene foam is laid under the base of the frame. In this case, it does not matter how the profiles are fastened - to the wall or by means of U-shaped fasteners. Penofol sheets are applied to the ceiling / wall of the loggia and fixed with slats. In this case, an overlap joint is permissible, and the connecting strip can be glued with tape.

Insulation under the base of the frame is possible only when using a thin insulation with a thickness of up to 20 mm. Pressing a thicker heat insulator will affect the stiffness of the battens and fixings.

If you plan to clad the balcony with plasterboard or PVC, MDF panels, then it is advisable to lay the heat-insulating material in the cells of the frame. As a heater, 15 density foam or mineral wool is used. The disadvantage of this technology is an increase in the thickness of the heat-insulating "pie".

Options for arranging a "warm" floor

The technology of floor insulation on the loggia is somewhat different from the insulation of the hay and the ceiling. Excessive requirements are imposed on this element of the balcony.

There are several basic options for arranging a "warm floor":


Do-it-yourself loggia insulation: step-by-step instructions

Below is a step-by-step instruction for insulating a loggia with penoplex.

Tools and materials

For work you will need:

  • foam plates;
  • building level, stationery knife, marker;
  • PVC pipes for cable laying;
  • container for kneading glue;
  • construction mixer;
  • trowel;
  • polyurethane foam;
  • assembly gun;
  • a grater for grinding heat-insulating sheets;
  • plastic smooth trowel for grouting the floor;
  • metal grid;
  • sand concrete M300 coarse fraction;
  • polyurethane glue.

Warming the loggia: step by step instructions. Photo - a diagram of a heat-insulating "pie".

Preparatory work

First of all, it is necessary to install energy-saving plastic windows on the loggia. It is not worth saving on glazing - it is better to choose double-glazed windows and fittings from firms that have proven themselves in the "window" market.

If high-quality windows have already been installed on the balcony, then you can proceed to the insulation of the balcony.

Preparatory activities:


Ceiling insulation


Installation of heat insulator on walls and parapet


Warming the floor of the loggia with penoplex: step by step instructions

Consider the stages of creating a "warm floor" using foam and cement-sand screed:


  1. If it is necessary to install the supporting frame, it is better to use a galvanized metal profile. Unlike wood, it does not rot and is not heavy.
  2. Thermal insulation work should be carried out in dry weather. Many adhesives and primers have features of application in high humidity conditions.
  3. The slots on the loggia are treated with foam that is resistant to low temperatures.
  4. The wood used must be dried, and then treated with anti-fire and decay agents.

Warming the loggia with your own hands: step by step instructions. Video.

The balcony is a part of the building that needs insulation more than others, because not all residents use it only as a warehouse. Increasingly, people begin to equip their balconies for an additional room, for example, a personal office. For these and not only reasons, it is necessary to produce competent insulation of the structure from the inside.

In this article, we will consider three ways to insulate a balcony with our own hands using different materials.

Balcony insulation stages

Insulation of the balcony from the inside is performed in the following sequence:

    First, the existing gaps are closed. It is necessary to carefully examine the balcony and determine their location. The problem can be eliminated with the help of polyurethane foam, even if the slots are quite wide, only you need to choose a high-quality one, for example, "Macroflex", "Soudal", "Moment Montage". After the foam dries, the excess is trimmed with a utility knife.

Balcony waterproofing from the inside. For these purposes, you can use penetrating waterproofing "Aquatron", "Penetron" and the like. They are applied with a brush, roller or spray method. The advantage of penetrating waterproofing is that it penetrates the walls, making them more resistant to low temperatures and more durable. In addition, waterproofing eliminates all microcracks that are invisible to the “naked” eye.

  • Laying of heat-insulating material. For this purpose, you can use polystyrene foam, polyurethane foam, foam, mineral plates, etc.
  • Laying the vapor barrier. You can use polymer "breathing" membranes, vapor barrier films "Izospan", "Rockwool" and the like, or, in extreme cases, penofol, which is laid with the foil side towards the apartment. So the heat leaving the room will come back.
  • Exterior decoration ceiling and walls on the balcony.

    # 1. Thermal insulation of a balcony with expanded polystyrene: a sequence of works

    If you chose expanded polystyrene as a heater, then the sequence of work is as follows:

      After all the cracks are closed and the waterproofing is done, the surface is treated with a deep penetration primer, for example "Ceresit". This can be done with a brush or spray. The primer is poured into a bucket or other container that you do not mind, then applied to the surface. Carefully work on the walls, ceiling and floor to achieve maximum adhesion of the insulation boards to them.

  • After applying the primer, wait at least six hours, then continue working. If the wall is made of cinder concrete, then the primer is carried out twice.
  • Have a rest - we continue. We unpack the expanded polystyrene plates. They are attached with glue and fasteners. The glue must be prepared according to the instructions and mixed thoroughly. Then apply it on the first sheet, which is glued to the surface (do not forget to step back three centimeters from the edges, and leave small gaps between the sheets). Install the expanded polystyrene sheets in a checkerboard pattern.
  • Next, you need to drill holes 0.5 cm deep using a perforator, and then additionally attach the insulation plates with dowels.

  • It is up to you to lay a vapor barrier or not. In this case, it is not necessary to do it.
  • Reinforcing mesh installation. When all slabs are securely fixed to the walls or ceiling, the reinforcement mesh should be installed. For this, the surface of the slabs is worked out with glue, perforated corners are fixed at their corners. The reinforcing mesh is rolled with a roller to the glued surface, then another layer of glue is applied. When the wall is dry, it is primed and plastered.
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    # 2. Balcony insulation with foam (video)

    Penoplex is actively used in the insulation of premises. You can fix it to the surface using bituminous mastics, polyurethane foam or dowel mushrooms. Consider the option of mounting on polyurethane foam.

    So. The waterproofing is done. Polyurethane foam is applied to the insulation plate along the perimeter. It's enough. After application, we wait a couple of seconds and fix the plate on the insulated surface. The next slab is stacked to the first end-to-end. After two days, you can fix the slabs with additional dowels. Further, the whole process is repeated in a similar order, which is described above. Do the finishing at your discretion. You can sew up the insulation plates with plastic panels, they look very original.

    The process of insulating the balcony has been completed. As you can see, it does not represent anything complicated. If you are just planning to do this work, then our article will help you. If you have already done the insulation of the loggia yourself, then in the comments share your methods with your readers.

    No. 3. Thermal insulation of a balcony with mineral wool: technology features

    Thermal insulation of balconies with mineral wool is carried out under the constructed lathing. A lining is attached on top of the frame - wooden or plastic panels with special grooves.

    A well-known fact is the building recommendation to carry out insulation from the outside of the building. However, in the insulation of balconies and loggias, it is often impossible to arrange the insulation material outside. The internal placement of the insulation layer requires certain calculations, adherence to technology and the correct selection of materials so that in the future the work performed does not lead to wetting of the walls, corners and ceiling inside the outrigger structure.

    What materials can be used to insulate the balcony and loggia from the inside? What kind of finishing will allow you to reliably protect the insulation from the internal space and create an aesthetic appearance of the internal walls?

    In modern technologies of insulation of open curtain structures (balconies), four types of material are used as internal insulation: polystyrene, penoplex, penofol and mineral wool. Consider the technological features of installation and types of wadded insulation used for thermal insulation of balconies.

    Types of mineral wool

    Depending on the raw materials used in the production, there are three main types of mineral wool: glass, stone and slag. All three materials are suitable for insulation work.

    Mineral wool is a soft material that does not have rigid dimensions. It is supplied in the form of rolls (they are unwound into a track before laying) or soft mats. Sometimes one side of the insulation is covered with aluminum foil to enhance the thermal insulation properties.

    The thickness of the mineral wool layer determines the quality of insulation and varies in size from 20 to 200 mm.

    Mineral wool installation technology

    Any kind of mineral wool is mounted under the frame, located between the outer wall (ceiling, roof) and the frame supports. As supports, you can use wooden sticks or metal profiles, depending on what kind of cladding will be used in the future.

    When using lining for finishing wall cladding, the lathing frame is constructed of wood. Wooden poles with a cross section of 150 - 250 cm 2 are installed, while you can save a little the inner space of the balcony by installing sticks of rectangular rather than square section (30 × 50 cm 2, 30 × 70 cm 2).

    All racks and horizontal battens are installed under the level. Anchoring of uprights to the concrete surface of the ceiling and floor is carried out with anchor bolts. Horizontal supports are attached to vertical supports. If the future cladding is made of plastic lining, the horizontal slats are attached at three levels: knee, hip, shoulder.

    For internal insulation with mineral wool, it is mandatory to install a vapor barrier. The cotton material itself is breathable, it easily permeates gaseous substances (air, steam).

    Considering that with internal insulation, the point of condensation formation shifts into the insulation, it is necessary to limit the ingress of steam or air from their living quarters into the construction wool. For this purpose, a vapor barrier film is inserted between the mineral wool and the finish.

    Interior decoration

    Purpose of interior decoration:

    • Close the heat insulator material from the living space.
    • Create an aesthetic interior wall covering for a room or a heated loggia.

    There are various materials for interior decoration of balconies (drywall, wood, plastic, plaster). With a previously constructed lathing frame, the decoration is carried out by hanging various types of panels: plywood, MDF, lining made of wood or plastic.

    Finishing with clapboard is carried out by cladding the walls with wooden (or plastic) carriage panels that have special grooves around the perimeter for ease of installation and tightness of fastening. At the same time, plastic lining is often a cheaper imitation of a wooden coating laid on the inner walls of a balcony (or loggia). It is characterized by less strength and stiffness.

    Wooden carriage panels are reliable, environmentally friendly, and have sufficient rigidity for the floor covering. The ceiling of the loggia can be sheathed with plastic clapboard, the floor is covered with wood, as for the walls - both types of carriage covering (plastic and wood) can be used here.

    After finishing the finish, the inner surface is treated with a composition that protects the wood from moisture and from destruction.

    How to properly insulate a balcony or loggia (video)

    We insulate the balcony from the inside correctly. 6 stages of work

    The creation of a favorable microclimate on the loggia involves not only wall insulation, the entire space must be hermetically sealed. Floor and ceiling surfaces are also sheathed with a material with a low degree of thermal conductivity. In our article, you will learn how to properly insulate a balcony from the inside.

    Heat insulator selection

    The advantages and disadvantages are inherent in each type of thermal insulation. In order to choose the most suitable insulation, you should compare the main characteristics of heat insulators.

    The most common options for heat insulators:

    • Extruded polystyrene foam (penoplex);
    • Foamed polyethylene (penofol);
    • Polyurethane foam (PPU);
    • Styrofoam;
    • Mineral wool.

    Mineral wool

    The thickness of the sheets varies from 2 to 20 cm. Mineral wool is divided into three types, depending on the components of the raw material:

    An example of a mineral wool device on a loggia. The material fits into the prepared structure. The frame for installation can be made of metal profiles or wooden blocks.

    Manufacturers produce cotton wool in the form of mats and soft rolls. In some cases, one side is covered with foil. Aluminum foil improves the level of thermal insulation.

    The main disadvantage is that moisture is destructive, a vapor barrier is needed.

    Heaters based on polymers

    Penoplex, polyurethane foam, polystyrene, foamed polyethylene are polymers treated with foamed compositions.

    Advantages:

    • The presence of gas bubbles provides not only a good level of thermal insulation, but also a low weight of the slabs;
    • High degree of moisture resistance;
    • The materials are durable;
    • Antifungal resistance;
    • Simplicity and convenience when laying plates or sheets, as well as rolls (foamed polyethylene);
    • An economical repair option, subject to the choice of foam as insulation.

    The main disadvantage: support the spread of flame during a fire, emit harmful substances during combustion.

    When choosing foam and other polymer-based materials, it is necessary to correctly select the thickness of the plates and determine the density

    1. Foam sheets

    Insulator plates (expanded polystyrene) during installation.

    Polyfoam refers to the budgetary methods of insulating the loggia, however, it is considered a rather fragile material, therefore, a crate is required for installation. A worthy replacement is extruded polystyrene foam; for its installation, the creation of a special frame is not required.

    2. Penoplex

    Plates of extruded polystyrene foam (thickness 50 mm) are used as insulation. Seams between the elements are sealed with polyurethane foam. Penoplex is attached using special disc dowels ("fungi").

    3. Penofol

    The material is used as a separate heat insulator, and with the help of penofol, it is possible to provide vapor barrier to polystyrene foam. Due to the foil side, warm air is reflected and trapped in the room.

    In order to accelerate the insulation of the structure, you can use an alternative method of thermal insulation - spraying polyurethane foam (PPU).

    4. Polyurethane foam

    PPU is one of the most modern heat insulators. The cost of application services is considered high in comparison with other analogs, but many managed to evaluate the operational properties of PU foam. This insulation is characterized by high thermal insulation rates due to its fine-pored structure.

    The main stages of work on warming the space of the loggia

    In order to increase the usable area in your house and operate the premises all year round, you must:

    1. Close up the gaps if available. Study the room carefully to eliminate any flaws in the structure. As a rule, the slots are filled with polyurethane foam, even if they are of considerable size.

    After complete drying, it is necessary to trim off the excess.

    2. Glazing with reliable double-glazed windows.

    3. Organize a waterproofing layer. To protect against moisture, waterproofing with penetrating properties is used - "Penetron", "Aquaton", etc. The composition is applied with a roller, brush, or sprayed. Such impregnation penetrates into the thickness, therefore, the walls become resistant to unfavorable weather to the maximum, and the strength characteristics improve.

    5. Installation of a vapor barrier layer. In order to make a vapor barrier, you should use special polymer membranes ("breathing"), as well as films "Rockwool", "Izospan", penofol.

    Balcony decoration

    The goals of creating interior decoration:

    • External masking of the heat insulator;
    • Organization of a favorable indoor environment in the room.

    To create the interior of the balcony, you can choose from various finishes. For the finishing layer, plaster, plastic panels, MDF, lining, plywood, GKL sheets and even a block house are perfect.

    Lining panels are environmentally friendly and reliable. One of the main advantages of the finishing material is rigidity. The lining is fixed on a wooden lathing frame.

    The walls of the loggia are sheathed with clapboard, the flooring is laminate.

    Facing the balcony with a block house.

    The plastic panels have grooves for connecting elements. The plastic version of the lining has less rigidity and strength than wood.

    Installation of sheets of gypsum plasterboard on metal profiles. Plasterboard boards can be wallpaper, paint, or decorative plaster.

    Wall decoration with wallpaper over sheets of gypsum plasterboard.

    Bamboo wallpaper. The base for finishing is plasterboard.

    Video

    1. The result of the loggia insulation.

    Glazed balcony. Demonstration of electrical leads. Testing the strength of extruded polystyrene foam. The use of foam with a thickness of 30 and 50 mm, finishing the walls with putty. Concrete floor screed on top of insulation slabs.

    2. Stages of repair work on the balcony.

    Consistent process of furnishing the premises. Scheme of wall insulation with polystyrene and foamed polyethylene, finishing - plastic panels. Floor: leveling, thermal insulation, sheathing with OSB boards, installation of laminate lamellas.

    How to properly insulate the loggia

    Internal insulation of the loggia has recently become more and more in demand and is carried out after it is isolated from the street by full glazing. Having learned how much it costs to insulate the entire wall from the outside, the apartment owners are more inclined towards the option of cladding and cladding from the inside, at the same time solving the problem of expanding the living space. Accordingly, these people are interested in how you can properly insulate a loggia with your own hands and what is the best way to sheathe it, which will be discussed in this article.

    The better to insulate the loggia from the inside

    From the point of view of an ordinary owner of an apartment located in a brick or panel house, the task of thermal insulation should be solved taking into account the following requirements:

    • it is desirable that the temperature on the balcony and in the adjoining room be the same and comfortable in the winter season;
    • the space of the apartment should be maximized due to the loggia; for this, part of the wall is sometimes dismantled along with the window;
    • the cost of work and the purchase of insulation materials should be acceptable;
    • it is necessary that the interior design of the loggia after insulation and finishing is aesthetically pleasing, but does not require large expenses.

    In accordance with the above requirements, it is necessary to choose a durable, thin enough and at the same time effective insulation for the loggia, acceptable in cost. There is only one way to save money on work - to do it yourself. Then, by the method of exclusion, we refuse such options as insulation with polyurethane foam or foamed polyethylene materials. The former is too expensive and the latter ineffective.

    Advice. Thin insulation made of polyethylene foam (isolon, penofol) with a layer of aluminum foil should be used correctly, that is, together with other heat-insulating materials.

    It turns out that for the insulation of loggias inside, done by hand, the following choice of suitable heaters remains:

    • foamed polystyrene (polystyrene) in plates;
    • extruded polystyrene foam in plates (penoplex);
    • mineral wool, which is produced on the basis of basalt and fiberglass.

    Polyfoam with a density of 25 kg / m3 is the best option for insulation in terms of cost, which is why it is the most popular. More durable polystyrene laid on floors will come out a little more expensive - 35 kg / m3 specific density. In addition to the fact that the material is cheap, it has one of the best thermal conductivity values ​​- 0.043 W / m2 · ° C. Better than it is only extruded polystyrene foam, which has a thermal conductivity of 0.037 W / m2 ° C, while for mineral wool this indicator at a density of 80 kg / m3 is 0.06 W / m2 ° C, and for glass wool - 0.044 W / m2

    Comparative analysis of materials

    Which of the following heaters is better for thermal insulation of loggias? For all characteristics, expanded polystyrene (penoplex) is in the first place, the heat-insulating layer from it will be the thinnest. In addition, the polymer has high strength and prevents the passage of steam (permeability - 0.02 mg / m At the same time, this material is more expensive than others.

    The second place is behind polystyrene, since its indicators are slightly lower, including strength. Also, polystyrene repels water vapor worse (permeability - 0.05 mg / m · h · Pa). But it is cheap, which is important for people with average incomes. There is another point: when insulating with penoplex or foam, it is not necessary to arrange a vapor barrier, these materials themselves can serve as a good barrier.

    Polymers are easily destroyed when exposed to high temperatures and can burn, so it is better to hide them behind some kind of cladding, for example, made of drywall. In contrast to them, there is mineral wool, which is not capable of burning at all. As for glass wool, its limit is 200 ° C; at a higher temperature, it carbonizes and collapses. That is, the best non-combustible insulation is mineral wool, which is in the middle price category.

    The main disadvantage of mineral wool is its ability to absorb moisture by open pores (permeability - 0.6 mg / m · h · Pa). And with a direct hit of water, mineral wool completely gets wet, although it can restore its insulating properties after drying. This is especially true for rolled mineral wool of low density; when insulating the loggia from the inside, it will have to be protected from moisture and ensure the removal of vapors, which is not always technologically possible.

    Even if for the sake of experiment, the mineral wool is completely sealed in polyethylene, then at a certain temperature difference on both sides, a dew point will appear in its thickness and condensation will form. The only correct way when insulating with mineral wool is to ensure the removal of vapors through the air (air gap). This complicates the process and leads to a rise in the cost of work, so it is easier to take sheet penoplex. It makes sense to put cotton wool in cases where the issue of fire safety is acute.

    Preparatory stage

    Before starting work, preparation should be done. It consists not only in the selection of tools and the purchase of materials, but also in the preparation of the loggia itself for insulation. The following recommendations must be followed:

    • first of all, glazing is installed, and only then insulation is carried out;
    • to close up all the cracks leading to the street, otherwise the insulation procedure will lose all meaning;
    • cut off flush protruding polyurethane foam;
    • seal the windows with plastic wrap so as not to stain;
    • lay all the necessary communications: these include electricity and the installation of freon and drain pipes for the air conditioner.

    Often, in new panel houses, you can find cracks in the loggia, plugged with anything. They should be cleaned and filled with polyurethane foam. It is also important to remove irregularities on the walls and ceilings, and carefully remove the resulting debris.

    Insulation of walls, ceilings and windows

    The first question is what insulation technology to choose, the answer depends on the configuration of your loggia. The best option is when a concrete parapet is available, and if there is a metal fence instead, then there are several scenarios for further actions. The first - the parapet can be laid out from foam blocks or aerated concrete, and the metal can be removed completely. This path is the most acceptable, both in terms of excellent insulation and design of the loggia, and safety.

    Note. The parapet is laid before the installation of a new glass unit.

    The second scenario - the fence is sewn up with corrugated board, and then a wooden frame made of beams is arranged to fasten the insulation. This path is somewhat shorter, but it cannot be said that it will cost you much less. There is a weak point here - wooden beams will serve as bridges of cold and in order to get rid of them, you will have to put insulation in 2 layers with an offset. There is also a third way - the construction of a panoramic loggia without a parapet with full-height glazing.

    The technology of finishing with penoplex, which you have to adhere to when insulating a glazed loggia with a concrete parapet, is quite clear. On the cleaned and slightly moistened surface of the walls, firstly, polyurethane foam is applied for the primary fixation of expanded polystyrene or polystyrene boards. Pre-prepared and cut-to-size slabs are pressed against the wall and glued to the surface using foam.

    Often, the owners of housing in a panel house ask themselves the question - is it worth insulating the main wall between the loggia and the adjacent room? This is the fault of some construction crews seeking to make money in any way. With thermal insulation of all the enclosing structures of the loggia, it is pointless to sheathe the wall inside.

    At the same time, we insulate the walls of the loggia in the likeness of brickwork, placing sheets of penoplex with bandaging the seams. In simple words, the vertical seams of each subsequent row should be at least 150 mm apart from the seams of the previous one. In the process, you need to follow the vertical with the help of a building level. After the foam hardens, it is recommended to fix each polystyrene foam plate to the wall by means of dowels - umbrellas.

    The process of insulating the ceiling of the loggia is a little more complicated, the help of an assistant will not hurt here, although with a certain skill you can manage it yourself. Insulation plates will have to be immediately attached to the ceiling with dowels, for which it is necessary to drill the holes quite accurately, and then hammer in the dowels, while simultaneously supporting the plate. At the end, all seams and crevices are carefully filled with the same polyurethane foam.

    Advice. To increase the efficiency of insulation at this stage, it is recommended to sheathe the walls of the loggia on top of the insulation and the slopes of the windows with foil-clad foam (with foil inside).

    Now you need to create a frame for the installation of interior trim from plasterboard, plastic, lining or other facing materials. Wooden slats cannot be attached to the insulation, but you can drill a hole in the concrete through it. This is done with a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, and then the slats are screwed directly to the wall with special screws for concrete (called frame pins).

    That's all, the insulated loggia is ready for finishing, you can watch a step-by-step guide to action in the video:

    Floor insulation technology on the loggia

    The main trick of this technology is to correctly assemble a wooden frame, brought out into one horizontal line, for the subsequent installation of a fine floor covering. For this, a bar is taken and cut into crossbars along the width of the loggia. The crossbeams are attached to the floor directly with anchors or using steel corners with self-tapping screws and dowels, the installation step depends on the width of the insulation plate.

    Further, the floor is insulated on the loggia by laying sheets of foam plastic between the transverse beams. To fix them, it is enough to carefully foam all the seams around the slabs. Then, longitudinal beams - logs are laid on the crossbars. So they need to be brought into one plane, for which special mounting wedges are used, placed on both sides of the timber. After that, the lag is screwed to the crosspiece with a self-tapping screw. On an ordinary loggia, 3 logs just fall.

    It remains to cover the frame with thick plywood, which will be the basis for the final flooring. Step by step and in detail about the installation of the frame for floor insulation is described in the video:

    For reference. There is another method of insulation - under the screed, but you need to understand that this creates an additional load on the floor slab, and this option will be more expensive at a cost.

    Conclusion

    In fact, there are several ways to properly insulate balconies and loggias, but we presented the simplest and using the best material - expanded polystyrene. In the same way, you can install foam, but for the mineral wool it would be necessary to additionally lay a vapor barrier.

    10 mistakes when insulating a loggia, which must be avoided

    Small areas of typical apartments awaken in tenants the itch of building inventions aimed at the possibility of increasing square meters. This leads sooner or later to the fact that the gaze of the owner of the apartment stops on the balcony or loggia. "What if we insulate the loggia and thereby increase the area?" - such a thought comes first of all. It is possible to insulate and make the loggia a full-fledged part of the living space, but it is important not to make mistakes that, instead of joy, will bring problems and disappointments. What mistakes should be avoided when insulating a loggia?

    Redevelopment without permission

    Remember what a technical passport for an apartment is: this document describes in detail the housing that you own. Including what non-residential premises look like, what kind of walls and windows they have, what material they are made of. When rebuilding, for example, when insulating the walls (even if you do not demolish the partition between the hall and the balcony), you run the risk of not selling your apartment later, because there will be a discrepancy between the passport and the real state of the apartment. To avoid this problem, coordinate your alterations with the BTI.

    Installing a new radiator on the loggia or transferring the old one

    I would like it to be warm on the new attached living space, and here the way out seems to be the transfer of a heating radiator from the hall or kitchen to the loggia. This is a gross mistake that you shouldn't even think about: removing the heating radiator outside the outer (bearing) wall is strictly prohibited. This is fraught with accidents in heat supply (for example, freezing pipes), and you will never get permission for such arbitrariness. And if you still do it this way, then you will have to return the pipes and the radiator to their original position at your own expense. Is there a way out? Of course there is - electric floor heating. Modern technology makes it possible to make efficient and safe floor heating by laying a special electric cable. Moreover, for maximum heat transfer, the laying step can be varied depending on the planned heating temperature. I do not like? Instead of a water radiator, you can hang an electric oil heater in the same place, which will do the same job.

    Frameless glazing

    Frameless glazing seems both beautiful and modern, and it also takes up a minimum of space. But. This is a single glazing, which in winter will turn the loggia into a branch of the refrigerator, and frost will penetrate into the cracks between the frames. Therefore, this option should be discarded immediately. Double glazing only. Plastic windows with double-glazed windows and hinged sashes will be the right solution. In addition, they do not take up much space, they are easy to clean, and you can install mosquito nets in them. But if the soul does not lie to the plastic windows, you can turn your gaze to new technologies: these are lift-and-slide windows with thermal insulation.

    External glazing of a balcony using brackets

    Having made the removal of the glazing by 10-20 centimeters, you get another problem. The visor, which will inevitably cover your glazing from above, will collect snow in winter. And in the summer, rainwater will knock on the visor like a pioneer drum. In addition, external glazing spoils the appearance of the entire facade of your building.

    One-layer insulation

    There was an opinion that it is enough to lay out the loggia from the inside with foam blocks in one layer, and this is enough for full insulation. In fact, such a wall will freeze. It is necessary to add stone wool or extruded polystyrene foam insulation to this sandwich.

    Insulation without vapor barrier

    The main scourge of the newly insulated room is condensation. Temperature changes between cold concrete panels and warm air of the heated room will inevitably lead to the appearance of condensation in the form of moisture. And where there is condensation, there are unpleasant consequences - mold and mildew, which are very difficult to remove. They can be eliminated if you first put a vapor barrier in the way of the condensate (finish the walls on the balcony or in the loggia with plastic wrap or foil). This is especially true if you plan to insulate the walls with mineral wool. There are modern materials in which heaters are combined with vapor barrier. This is, for example, polystyrene, on which a film or glassine is pre-applied. Another option is such material as foil-clad penofol.

    Using a sealant without a protective layer

    Polyurethane foam ideally seals the seams when insulating, but the trouble is - if you leave the sealant as it is, then under the influence of sunlight (and there is enough of it in the loggia) it will decompose and turn into crumbs. The way out is to protect the outer surface of the sealant. Excess beads are cut off flush, the surface is processed with sandpaper, and then covered with any acrylate paint. Putty is also suitable - just to protect the polyurethane sealant from ultraviolet radiation. Even glued on construction tape will make the polyurethane of the sealant almost permanent.

    The floor is not properly insulated

    In order not to overload the floor slab (for example, with a concrete screed or leveling mixture), it is better to make the floor covering from lightweight modern materials. On top of the vapor barrier - foil or polyethylene film - foam or mineral wool mats are laid in two layers. Above - waterproofing, which can be used, for example, hydrostekloizol. Rolls are applied on top with an overlap of about 10-20 centimeters. With the help of a blowtorch, mastic-based strips are fused together, and if the use of open fire for some reason is impractical or dangerous, then the sheets are mechanically fastened. Then a layer of plywood, and only then carpet or laminate.

    Finally, the "classic" method of floor insulation is also not bad: wooden logs are laid on the slab, between which modern insulation materials are located.

    Unnecessary wall insulation between the loggia and the hall

    It makes no sense to insulate the wall between two warm rooms, you should not waste materials and funds on this pointless venture.

    Lack of attention to detail

    Any trifle thought out in advance can nullify the work done. Therefore, consider and do not forget:

    • Do not use gypsum plaster for sealing joints when insulating.
    • The gaps between the floor slabs and the glazing plane must be laid before the start of the insulation.
    • Before glazing, consider the height of the handles on the hinged sashes of the windows.
    • The width and design of the window sill boards (if they are to be installed) should be thought out right away.
    • The expediency and the number of installed mosquito nets are thought out in advance.
    • If wood elements are used for insulation, then they must be processed to protect against moisture and decay.

    If you managed to avoid all of the above mistakes, then you took the insulation of the loggia as collected and seriously as possible. In this case, you got what you wanted with the highest possible quality, and the result of your improvement efforts will delight you and your loved ones for a long time.

    How to insulate a loggia: options + instructions for a device from the inside of a do-it-yourself insulation system

    Loggia is a few square meters that can serve a variety of purposes. To use this room all year round, you need to provide a comfortable temperature there. Every home craftsman can turn it into a cozy, useful and well-equipped space.

    Are you going to start arranging these additional square meters, but do not know how to insulate the loggia with your own hands and what materials will be needed for this? We will help you to deal with all the questions - our article provides recommendations on the choice of insulation and a step-by-step instruction on thermal insulation of the walls, ceiling and floor of the loggia.

    Where to start insulating a loggia?

    You should start, of course, with planning. You should decide on the functional purpose of this small room. If it is supposed to be used as a warehouse for things that are not too necessary, then insulation does not make much sense. But the loggia can be turned into an office, a small gym, a winter garden, etc.

    There are also limitations. For example, a loggia cannot be used as a kitchen, that is, to install a stove, a sink for washing dishes, etc. It is also prohibited to install a centralized heating system on this area.

    There are a number of other restrictions that may be associated with the architectural features and fire safety of the building. This can be a ban on glazing above a certain floor, on changing the appearance of the building, the height of the fence, etc.

    As practice shows, many manage to somehow bypass these standards and arrange a loggia to their liking. Before starting work, it does not hurt to coordinate your plans with supervisory agencies or prepare for problems after the end of the rework.

    But under no circumstances can openings be made in the load-bearing wall, only the holes provided by the original project are permissible. Even a window-door unit removed from the loggia can be dangerous.

    To keep the loggia warm, you need high-quality glazing. It is better to order it from a reliable company. Double-glazed windows will do the job perfectly.

    Part of the space will be “eaten up” by a layer of insulation. These centimeters will have to be sacrificed to reliably protect the house from the cold. Loggias located on the lower floors are most often insulated from the outside. We wrote about the best materials for external wall insulation here.

    From the very beginning, you need to think over the options for heating this space.

    There are not so many of them, because only suitable for a loggia:

    Considering that the installation area is small, you can spend money on such convenience as TP. Cable systems are easy to install, all work can be done independently. An infrared floor is more difficult to install, it requires an almost perfectly flat base, but the electricity costs during operation will be moderate.

    But the simplest solution would be to use a heater, especially if the loggia is not used every day, but only from time to time. Installing a warm floor will require more cost and effort.

    The choice of materials and options for insulating a loggia with your own hands is quite wide.

    Among the most popular, it is worth noting:

    • mineral wool;
    • Styrofoam;
    • polyurethane foam;
    • expanded polystyrene;
    • penofol, etc.

    Mineral wool has a low price, but this is almost its only advantage. To lay such material, you will need to first arrange the crate. Mineral wool is sensitive to moisture, when wet it loses its beneficial properties, so it is not always suitable for a loggia.

    Polyfoam is a lightweight and durable material that tolerates moisture well and is considered a fairly moderate option in price.

    Polyurethane foam is a spray-on seamless coating. Its thickness can be varied to save precious centimeters.

    Insulation such as extruded polystyrene foam is a lightweight and comfortable board. It is very durable, retains heat well, and provides a high level of fire safety. It can be installed very quickly, but the cost of such insulation can be quite high.

    Penofol is a relatively thin material, which is complemented by other heaters for the loggia.

    It consists of a layer of expanded polystyrene and a reflective foil cover. Materials can be combined to reduce costs and achieve the desired effect.

    For example, on the ceiling, you can use foam covered with a layer of foam, and on the balustrade and walls, use expanded polystyrene plates.

    The main stages of warming a room

    To carry out the insulation correctly, you must perform the following basic operations:

    1. Clear space from foreign objects.
    2. Remove the old covering from the ceiling, walls, floor.
    3. Inspect the base, identify cracks, chips, noticeable irregularities.
    4. Carefully eliminate the deficiencies found.
    5. Remove old glazing if it needs modernization.
    6. Treat surfaces with antifungal and hydrophobic compounds.
    7. Carry out sealing of joints.
    8. Carry out glazing work.
    9. Install insulation on the ceiling, walls and floor.
    10. Carry out the installation of electrical wiring.
    11. Install the TP system.
    12. Carry out finishing work, install lighting, etc.

    An important point is the assessment of the wear of the structure fasteners. After installing double-glazed windows and thermal insulation, the weight of the structure may increase significantly.

    To carry out the necessary calculations and install reinforcing elements, you need to contact companies that have the necessary licenses. Self-activity in these matters can be fatal.

    Stage # 1 - careful preparation of the loggia

    When insulating and finishing a loggia, you should be very careful about sealing cracks and sealing seams. In such places, all crumbling material is carefully removed to a solid foundation.

    The slots in concrete structures are filled with repair compounds, strictly following the instructions. If in the process part of the reinforcement was exposed and there are traces of rust on it, the rod should be cleaned and treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

    The weak point is the filler around the window frame. The material with which this space is foamed begins to lose its properties after a couple of years. The foam must be completely removed before installing new glazing.

    To insulate the old frames, the worn-out filler is cleaned from the grooves, and the resulting space is repaired with a more stable composition.

    Stage # 2 - installation of foam and foam foam on the ceiling

    Insulation is mounted according to the “top-down” scheme, i.e. start from the ceiling. Most often, foam plates are installed here. They can be fixed with tile adhesive. The composition is smeared around the perimeter of the slab, and several strokes are made in the center.

    It is not necessary to completely cover the surface with glue. After that, the slab is pressed against the ceiling and wait a few minutes for the composition to set. Then you can start gluing the next element.

    The frame method of mounting this material is also allowed, but it is considered more laborious.

    Before starting work on the insulation of the walls of the loggia, the slabs are cut from the inside so that they have the appropriate dimensions. It is necessary to ensure that the joints on adjacent slabs do not coincide. The surface of the foam ceiling is covered with penofol. The foil side should face the floor.

    Stage # 3 - fixing polystyrene foam to the walls

    Such boards can be glued to the walls using the appropriate polyurethane foam or adhesive. The foam will be appropriate where the base on which the expanded polystyrene is laid is quite even, the installation time will be noticeably reduced.

    If there is a bias, it is more logical to use glue. You can vary the thickness of its application to make the surface of the wall. After that, the plates are additionally fixed with plastic "fungi".

    When installing expanded polystyrene, it is also necessary to ensure that there is no overlap of seams in adjacent elements. This will increase the overall level of thermal insulation and prevent cold bridges.

    On top of the plates, a plastic mounting mesh is glued to prepare the base for finishing materials. Some inexperienced craftsmen press the mesh to the board and then apply a layer of glue. This is an erroneous method, after drying or later, such a mesh may simply fall off.

    According to the technology, you first need to apply a layer of glue to the surface of the slab, then put a grid on it, and put glue on top of it again. This is a longer and more expensive installation option, but it provides the necessary adhesion.

    Some masters, before installing the mesh, level the surface of expanded polystyrene with glue: apply a layer, level it with a rule and wait for it to dry. After that, put a fresh layer of glue, mesh and glue again.

    The fact is that the protruding polystyrene can simply be cleaned off with a suitable sandpaper, but the expanded polystyrene has to be cut off. For small differences, it is easier to use a solution rather than a knife. The density of the facade mesh should be high enough, not less than 140 g / sq. m, although it is better to take a denser one, for example, 180 g / m2.

    After its installation, the surface of the wall is subjected to putty in order to finally level it. Then you can carry out finishing: painting, wallpaper, etc. Of course, the wiring must be done prior to installing the mesh.

    Stage # 4 - laying an electric underfloor heating

    To lay electrical wires, recesses are made in the insulation layer. The wire is first inserted into the box, and then mounted on the wall, floor, ceiling, etc. In the future, this will facilitate the elimination of possible breakdowns.

    Floor insulation is carried out with approximately the same materials as on the walls. Sometimes expanded clay is used, it is poured onto a base covered with a layer of waterproofing. Next, you can use expanded polystyrene plates or other material, for example, mineral wool. It is laid between wooden logs.

    If you plan to install a floor heating system, you need to take care of a flat base. Cable systems are laid in a screed layer. The composition is selected in accordance with the manufacturer's recommendations.

    The infrared film floor is placed on the base; the floor covering can be mounted on top immediately. In this case, the floor level will rise quite a bit.

    We have provided step-by-step instructions for laying cable and film underfloor heating in the next article.

    In advance, you need to provide a place for installing the thermostat. Usually, a niche of a suitable size is made on the wall for these purposes. Among the turns of the cable TP, a temperature sensor is placed, laid in a corrugated tube. It will also need to be connected to the thermostat.

    Conclusions and useful video on the topic

    A detailed video tutorial on how to insulate a loggia with your own hands:

    Insulation of the loggia floor:

    Modern materials and technologies allow you to insulate the loggia really reliably and quickly. In any case, when performing installation work, the requirements of the technology and the manufacturer's recommendations should be observed. Then the result will fully meet expectations, and the insulation will remain effective for many years.

    Are you planning to do your own loggia insulation, but you still have questions after reading our material? Feel free to ask our experts for advice - write your questions in the comments block.

    Obtaining additional meters of living space by arranging a loggia is the most common and economical way to improve living conditions. To get a full-fledged room, it is necessary to carry out construction work in accordance with the loggia insulation technology. The process of warming itself consists of several stages and the correctness of their implementation will allow avoiding the violation of the integrity of the heat-insulating layer, its rotting and the occurrence of wetting and mold zones on the walls and ceiling.

    The whole procedure begins with the definition of the method and the choice of insulation. The method of arranging thermal insulation can be external and internal. With external thermal insulation, the internal space is significantly saved and a damper is created against the formation of condensation on the internal surface. However, the insulation itself requires expensive outer cladding, and installation work is quite difficult due to the external location of the surface.

    There are many video technologies for insulating a loggia from the outside, which will introduce you to the frame and frameless way of finishing with heat-insulating materials.
    Internal thermal insulation can be done independently if you follow the step-by-step scheme:

    1. the first step is to replace or insulate existing windows, in the absence of them, complete new glazing. For this, window blocks with energy-saving multi-chamber double-glazed windows are well suited;
    2. the second step is preparatory work, which includes the choice of insulation, and, possibly, the construction of side walls or a solid parapet, and the removal of the old cladding;
    3. the third step is the whole range of thermal insulation works, which also consists of several stages.

    The construction market offers roll and tile thermal insulation. Roll includes -, foamed polyethylene, and tiled - expanded polystyrene, polystyrene, styrodur, mineral wool.

    Roll insulation is polyethylene foam with or without a layer of aluminum foil. This material is easy to install, has a small thickness, has good heat-insulating, sound-insulating and moisture-resistant performance. In combination with a vapor barrier, they are ideal for cold protection. Mineral wool is often produced in rolls, which is much cheaper than other types of thermal insulation, but at the same time it is just as easy to fit and is a good heat insulator.

    Tiled heat insulators have a thickness of 50 m, which can significantly reduce the useful area of ​​the room. These are environmentally friendly materials with good thermal insulation and hygroscopic properties, resistant to temperature extremes, and having sufficient sound insulation. The main disadvantage of which is easy flammability, but it is necessary to choose more expensive analogs that are difficult to ignite and self-extinguishing.

    Expanded clay is often used as an insulating material for the floor, which is highly resistant to environmental factors.
    Each type of insulation has its own pros and cons, but the best option is to create a whole insulation system from different materials.

    Carrying out the insulation of the loggia step by step, it is necessary to pay attention to the observance of the main stages of the technological process.

    Stage one

    At this stage, all preparatory work is being carried out:

    • freeing space from all objects that interfere with the work;
    • removal of old finishes from all surfaces;
    • glazing;
    • cementing the detected cracks, damages in the walls, ceiling and floor;
    • treatment of the floor and ceiling with a waterproofing compound.

    Stage two

    The procedure for warming involves insulating the floor at this stage.

    The options for carrying out work on floor insulation differ depending on the material chosen, but there are several main points that are the same for any kind of insulation:

    • the floor is treated with waterproofing mastic;
    • a vapor barrier is laid on a layer of mastic, preferably a membrane type;
    • the support beams are fastened;
    • a system of wooden logs is mounted on the beams, which are made of a bar of 50x50 or 60x60 m in size;
    • lags are attached with self-tapping screws to the beams and steel plates to the walls;
    • insulation is placed in the voids that have formed between the lags or expanded clay is filled up;
    • everything is covered with a vapor barrier;
    • stacked on logs of boards or plywood using self-tapping screws as a subfloor.

    Insulation of the floor can also be organized with the help, but it is still necessary to do the laying of a vapor barrier.

    Stage three

    It must be remembered that during the arrangement it will be necessary to carry out light, air conditioning, a "warm floor" system, and possibly water. All this is important to foresee before choosing a method of insulation and take into account when installing it.