How to insulate floors in a wooden house. Insulation of the floor in a wooden house from below

For the house to be comfortable and convenient, it is important that all technological procedures are followed throughout the construction, including the insulation of the room. The floor is one of the coldest parts, because warm air rises up and cold air moves down. That is why it is important to decide even at the construction stage, so that in the future life in a private house is comfortable.

Building codes state that the floor temperature in an apartment on the first floor or in a private house should not be more than two degrees below the room temperature. If this happens, there will be large heat losses. Most often this happens due to the fault of the wood from which the floors are made - it dries up, cracks appear, through which drafts blow, taking away heat from the house. As a result of such metamorphoses, the heat yield can be in the amount of 30% of the total amount of heat loss. That is why builders and ordinary people are interested in how to insulate a wooden floor, so that they no longer have to worry about the onset of winter.

What to choose for insulation?

To date, the range of thermal insulation materials is quite wide, you can find universal materials suitable for both floors and roofs and walls. In the abundance of materials, you can easily get confused and make the wrong choice, but after all, the overall quality of thermal insulation depends on this.

Nowadays, the insulation of wooden floors is most often carried out using the following materials:

Fiberglass;

There are also other materials: polystyrene, expanded clay and sawdust, these are older types of thermal insulation, but they have already been tested over the years and will definitely give the desired effect - complete insulation of a wooden floor. Moreover, the technological process of their installation is very difficult to spoil or disrupt.

There are several types of mineral wool that can equally well insulate a wooden floor: glass, stone and slag. Its main advantages are incombustibility, excellent heat and sound insulation, fire resistance, as well as high resistance to biological and chemical substances.

However, cotton wool also has certain disadvantages:

Low vapor permeability;
Low strength.

Also, mineral wool absorbs moisture well, which is quite bad for an insulating material, because it loses its properties as a heat insulator, and if the mineral wool is improperly installed, it can harm residents, because consists of substances hazardous to health.

This material is sold in the form of hard slabs and plastic mats. When laying tiles, it is necessary to place them with the hard side up so that they are not damaged during use.

The most famous and popular materials for insulating a wooden floor made from mineral wool are Rockwool and Isover. Izover is characterized by low thermal conductivity and better resistance to moisture in comparison with ordinary mineral wool. It does not burn and perfectly tolerates the influence of chemical components and biological destructors. Rockwool is stronger and can withstand significantly higher loads without deformation. Like Izover, the material perfectly retains heat in the house and is resistant to all kinds of external influences.

Expanded polystyrene is also called polystyrene and it is one of the most common materials for insulating a wooden floor. He received such popularity due to the large number of positive qualities and the almost complete absence of negative ones. The most positive qualities foam plastic are practically zero thermal conductivity and vapor permeability, a high level of strength and fire resistance. The special structure of the material gives it a long service life without loss of properties and shape. The only negative feature of expanded polystyrene is vulnerability to moisture, which is why a waterproofing layer must be installed before installing the foam.

This material is derived from polystyrene and took only the best from it. Penoplex is produced in plates made of extruded polystyrene foam, which are much better resistant to the influence of moisture than ordinary foam. This new material keeps warmth well and has virtually no chance of mold and mildew formation, making it an ideal candidate for use when insulating wood floors.

Nowadays, new insulating materials often appear, one of which is penofol. It is produced in the form of rolls and, despite its recent debut in the construction industry, it has already managed to win respect among many consumers due to its combination of excellent insulating qualities and ease of installation, therefore, often when asked how to insulate a wooden floor, they answer “of course Penofol”. Penofol consists of an insulating layer, which most often becomes a translucent material, while the second component is a reflective layer, namely polished foil. This material will not require additional waterproofing works, because this function is performed by foil. Penofol is placed end-to-end or with overlaps on the floor, after which the joints are glued with a special metallized tape.

We insulate using technology

The process of insulating wooden floors cannot be called complicated, and with certain skills and knowledge, this task can be done by hand. But before starting work, it is worth deciding on a couple of main points.

The material for insulating a wooden floor must be selected with reference to the temperature and humidity level in the room, the planned load on the surface and what the room to be insulated is intended for. The thickness of the insulation is also selected taking into account the characteristics of the room and the material that was previously selected.

Thermal insulation of wooden floors is divided into stages:

We mount logs made of wood;
We fasten the boards at the bottom of the log, thus making the second base for laying out the insulation;
We put the insulation directly between the logs, and the gaps between the logs and the insulation are sealed with a sealant or foam;
We install the vapor barrier layer. A layer of insulation is placed on an insulating material and attached to the joists. Gaps and joints are sealed with metallized tape;
We put the wooden flooring.

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Most often, the insulation of a wooden floor is carried out on logs, because this method is the most simple and effective. This method prevents heat loss and shows itself as well as possible during the insulation of wooden floors near the ground - on the first floors or in.

Step-by-step insulation along the logs

First, we install the logs with the T-shaped side into the foundation or log house, observing the distance between the individual logs of 60-100 cm.Further, the boards or wooden surfaces(shields), are attached to the logs from below, and thermal insulation will be placed on them later.

We put the insulating material on the flooring formed between the lag. After the completion of the installation, if necessary, a hydro and vapor barrier is installed. The process involves laying the insulation with an overlap of 10 cm on the insulation, while it is desirable that the edges of the insulation near the walls climb on them by about 10 cm.To protect against moisture, specific materials for vapor insulation are used, or an ordinary dense polyethylene film. After fitting all the components and checking them, you can lay the floor boards and finish the surface, the whole process is well displayed in the photo in the article.

When insulating wooden floors close to the ground (first floors, private houses), logs are often placed on wooden pads, which in turn are located on brick pillars... Between the lag there is an insulation covered with a vapor barrier.

In order for the house to be comfortable and warm, it is necessary to do the insulation of wooden floors, while taking into account the many subtleties and nuances that are special for each room. Modern technologies give a choice from a variety of thermal insulation materials, which are sometimes quite difficult to understand.

Only with the correct selection of insulation and professional installation, taking into account many factors, you can not worry that the floor will let heat or moisture through. If you are not confident in your own abilities, it is better to entrust the insulation to professionals in their field, who know exactly how to insulate a wooden floor - and you will be calmer and warmer in the house.

Probably, many home owners ask such questions: Do you need to insulate the floors? Will there be any sense from the insulated floor? How to insulate an old floor without removing it?

We can say with confidence that it is necessary to insulate the floors, since insulating it will help reduce heating costs and you will feel the sense from it pretty quickly. And the main advantage of this process is that you can insulate a wooden floor without removing it.

Wooden houses have remained very popular for many years, since they are relatively inexpensive, they can stand for more than a dozen, or even a hundred years, and they also differ in their quality and comfort. If your house is well-built and has excellent insulation, then you can forget about cold winters while in such a structure.

But, if you intend to make your house even warmer, then we recommend that you start insulating the floor, since in a cold state it can lower the temperature, which will lead to high heating costs.

Double floor

Double floor means a structure of two levels:

Rough - boards attached to the beams, on which the layers of thermal insulation will be laid;
Finishing - a level that serves as the basis for laying the last layer of insulation.

Insulation options and what materials are needed.

There are many options for floor insulation that you can find in any building materials market.

We will offer you the most popular and effective insulation:

Mineral wool is excellent soft material, which has a good cost and has a high rate of thermal insulation. Mineral wool can be classified as safe insulation that does not emit harmful substances do not burn;
Polyurethane foam - mainly used for vapor barrier;
Expanded clay - has good thermal insulation properties, but has a fairly high cost;
Penofol, penoplex, polystyrene are synthetic materials that reflect heat radiation well and are fireproof.

Installation technology

How to insulate a floor in a wooden house without disassembling the floor? Very easy. Now we will present you with a simple option on how to properly insulate the floor in a room cheaply. So, let's begin.

The work should begin with the organization of a "thermal insulation cake", which will have several insulating layers. To organize it you need:

Create a structure from a lag;
Installation of cladding boards on logs;
Carry out styling thermal insulation material between the lags so that the gaps are minimal.
Gaps can be filled polyurethane foam;
We lay a layer of insulation and on top of it we install a vapor barrier film, which must be attached to the logs, fasten the overlaps with tape;
We install the selected floor covering.

Insulation of the floor on the ground will be a "cake" of many layers, which will be presented:

Parent soil;
Bulk soil;
Large rubble;
Sand or cement mortar (which will be needed to level the rubble);
Waterproofing (in the underground of a house, it will not allow moisture not only to the floor, but also to the house itself);
Insulation (polyurethane foam, mineral wool, penofol are perfect. You can also insulate the floor with expanded clay, which has good thermal insulation qualities, but also has a high cost.

Penoplex is a good option. It is as easy to insulate the floor with penoplex as with other materials).

With screed (main and main layer of the structure);
Floor covering ("finishing" layer).

Making an effective design will require good materials, patience, and a few helpers. If you cope with the task, then insulated floors on the ground will keep warm well in your house and will not allow the cold to penetrate.

Calculation of the thickness of the insulation

It is worth considering the fact that each insulation should have its own thickness, which will minimize heat loss.

We will give you a list required thickness for various heaters:

Polyfoam - for a wooden house - 300 mm, for a concrete - 200 mm;
Mineral wool - not less than 300-400 mm;
Expanded clay - 300-400 mm;
Polyurethane foam, penoplex, penofol - not less than 100 mm;

Mineral wool

As previously stated in the article, mineral wool is a popular material that is non-flammable, resistant to shrinkage, deformation, as well as fungi and mold.

Before laying mineral wool, the cladding must already have a thermal insulation material that will protect it from moisture. If there is already a layer of waterproofing, then we install mineral wool, the sheets of which should be tightly pressed against each other in order to avoid cracks and gaps. After laying the mineral wool, we apply a layer of vapor barrier, then proceed to the installation of the floor covering.

Expanded clay

Represents porous balls of various sizes, which have good thermal insulation properties. Expanded clay is very durable, safe for use, has sound insulation qualities, and, moreover, it has a long service life. It is also worth noting its resistance to various temperatures. The process of warming with these materials is a rather laborious process. After that, they fall asleep on a waterproofing coating, then they are tamped and poured with cement.

Styrofoam

This material is distinguished by its lightness and ease of installation, it withstands moisture well, has good sound insulation, and has a long service life. But, its only drawback is its low fire safety, that is, it can ignite.

Before laying the foam, there must be a layer of waterproofing on the surface where it will be installed. After, the foam blocks are installed on the surface, after that - a layer of waterproofing and vapor barrier.

Penoplex

Between the lags, we lay a layer of insulation, then a rough floor is made on top, on which we can already lay the final floor. Tip - the gaps between the foam sheets can be sealed with polyurethane foam. Also, with penoplex you can insulate not only the floor, but also the house itself.

Penofol

Laying penofol from other heaters, in fact, does not differ much. As for any insulation, we prepare the surface, organize a vapor barrier and install the insulation, on which we apply a layer of foam foam. When the foam foam layer is installed, proceed with the installation of the floor covering.

How to insulate a concrete floor

Now we will move a little away from the article and talk a little about the choice of insulation for a concrete floor.

The following heaters are perfect for a concrete floor:

mineral wool;
Styrofoam;
expanded clay;
cork insulation, etc.

How to insulate the floor in a frame house

It is also possible to insulate the floor with your own hands in a frame house without removing the old floor on the first floor .. In fact, the insulation in such a house is no different from the insulation of a wooden house. We nail bars along the entire length to the lags and then mount the boards on top, or OSB boards... To make a waterproofing coating, we make a flooring from a waterproof film that will not allow moisture to pass through. Then, we proceed to the insulation layer.

What material is of high quality and what is the best way to insulate the floor? Indoors, you can insulate the floor with foam, expanded clay, mineral wool, polyurethane foam. Is it possible to insulate the floor with penofol? Yes, you can. This material is almost no different from those presented above. It is also suitable for this process, it will create a good insulating effect.

How to insulate the floor in a private house

Floor insulation in a private house is carried out according to the same principle as in a wooden one. The only difference can only be the presence of a concrete floor, not a wooden one.

How to insulate the floor in an apartment

The construction of the insulated surface of an apartment (on any floor) is also not very different from the insulation of a wooden or frame house.

As in a private house, the insulation process begins with the creation of a log on which the boards or OSB sheets are laid, then we lay down the waterproofing and the insulation layer itself. If the insulation is installed, proceed to the installation of the floor covering.

There is another way to insulate an apartment, but it is suitable for those who live on the 1st floor. We can say that you are very lucky to live on such a floor, since you can insulate the basement from the basement side.

Thanks to this method, it is not required to dismantle, remove or disassemble the old floor, which greatly facilitates the work. So, the tedious process of creating a new floor does not threaten you.

As you can see, there are many materials for insulating and creating a high-quality, full-fledged wooden floor that will delight you on cold winter evenings.

homeframe.ru

How to insulate the floor in an old wooden house

Hello! We got the old one country house... Solid wooden blockhouse, quite warm, but cold floor. We often visit it in the off-season and, no matter how you fire up the stove, you can't walk barefoot on the boards, your feet are freezing. Tell me how you can insulate it, maybe put something on top? After all, today there are a lot of all kinds of insulation, we were advised in the store to put a foil Teplon.

There is no simple answer to your question. Or rather, there is: most likely, on the floor of the old village house you can put only a traditional rug - and nothing else.

The fact is that in Russian huts (and German houses, by the way, too), not only insulation, but also waterproofing of the floor was not done, although these technologies have long been known. Unfilled underground space the best way combined with stove heating, provides optimum humidity, warm in winter (the ground does not freeze) and cool in summer. If your house is really built in accordance with the canons of folk architecture - most likely, under thick floorboards and one or two powerful logs there is open ground probably well trampled clay. Yes, you yourself mention something like that. Therefore, even if your hut is built in a dry place, moisture penetrates from the "damp earth" into the underground space. It can go out into the street through holes in the foundation or into the room through holes in the floor, gaps between the boards, and even the wood itself.

Neither waterproofing nor floor insulation was done in a traditional wooden house - only ventilation

If this is the case and there is no waterproofing, placing a thin layer of insulation (cork, foam polyethylene of any brand, insulated linoleum) on the boards, impervious to water vapor, will lead to waterlogging of the floor boards and their accelerated destruction. And to build an additional layer on top with an air-permeable heat insulator, a ventilated gap and a new flooring will not allow the low ceiling of the hut.

Our tip: Place carpet on the floor, only on a woven backing, not a solid PVC backing. The presence of natural fibers in the pile will make it warmer to the touch. Remove the woolen carpet from the wall and place it on the floor.

If the carpets do not give the desired result, and the desire to increase the comfort in the home is great, you will have to open the floors.

To effectively insulate the floor in an old wooden house, you first have to disassemble it.

Remove the boards, level the level with sand if necessary, carefully spread the waterproofing on the ground. It is easier, cheaper and more environmentally friendly to use a vapor barrier roofing film, carefully pressing and gluing it to the foundation and posts on which there are logs. You can press it with wooden planks, and stick it on uneven concrete or rubble with construction sealant or assembly glue. Lay a layer of mineral wool or glass wool on the film or sprinkle expanded clay, perlite, aggloporite, broken foam glass.

Expanded clay is not the most effective, but inexpensive and hardly moisture-absorbing insulation.

Thermal insulation based on organic materials (sawdust, wood concrete, ecowool) can be used if you are sure that you have completely eliminated moisture penetration. A layer of insulation of any type - the thicker, but between it and the floor boards, it is necessary to leave a gap for ventilation of at least 4 cm.

Don't forget about ventilation gap

Now you can lay the boards back, at the same time checking their condition and processing with back side a protective agent - they will last longer. And if you really want to arrange comfort, as in the royal chambers, you can contrive to remove the sleeve from the stove, cover the insulation with wind insulation so that it does not get dusty, and, if necessary, blow it into the underground space with a fan. warm air... But this is a topic for a separate conversation.

Various options for insulating a wooden floor on the ground. Details depend on the features of the existing structure, but in all cases, waterproofing is required

And, in fact, on the floor in the hut it is necessary to walk not barefoot, but in home felt boots :)

mrpol.su

Independent floor insulation in a wooden house - 3 options for high-quality installation

Most of them have wooden houses modern people associated with comfort and warmth. And in principle this is true, because wood is a living, natural, breathable material. But many of my friends are methodically stepping on the same rake, forgetting that floor insulation in a wooden house is no less important than wall and roof insulation. In this material, I will first tell you how to insulate the floor in a wooden house with the three most available ways, and then I will go personally through the use of each type of insulation specifically for wooden buildings.

Thermal insulation of the floor with cotton slabs.

Design options for floor insulation in wooden houses

To begin with, modern wooden houses can be built both on a light pile or strip foundation, and on a monolithic concrete slab, respectively, and the insulation scheme in all these cases will be different.

In addition, floors in wooden houses can be insulated both from below, that is, from the basement side, and from above, from the side of the dwelling. Naturally, it is easier to do all this during the construction of a house, but not everyone is so lucky and sometimes you have to insulate the floors in an old house, which leaves its imprint on the technology.

Insulation types.

Any major types of work in wooden houses, including the insulation of walls and floors, are recommended to be carried out only after the end of the shrinkage of the structure. And this shrinkage in a house assembled from a dry forest lasts about a year. If freshly sawn timber was used for construction, then shrinkage can last up to 5 - 7 years.

Option number 1. Arrangement of thermal insulation in a house with a low underground

Low underground is a disease of most old houses and dachas. In my experience, almost all owners who bought or somehow received a dacha built in the old fashioned way back in Soviet times are faced with a serious problem of cold and often rotten floors.

Penoplex bookmark between lags.

Immediately I will hasten to reassure you, it is not necessary to break everything, if the log house itself is still intact and strong enough, then you can insulate the floor in a wooden house with your own hands in a few days, and for this it is not at all necessary to be a real builder. It is enough to confidently use a hacksaw, drill and hammer.

As you probably already guessed, if there is a low subfloor in a private house, then the floors will have to be insulated from above. And for this we need to disassemble the entire structure completely, leaving only the bearing logs;

If the boards and skirting boards of the finished floor are in good condition, and you are not determined to completely change them, then when you tear off the flooring, be sure to draw yourself a sketch of the masonry and number each board. This will save you a lot of time and effort when you start putting everything back in place.

Vapor barrier over mineral wool.

When you have free access to the logs, the first thing to do is to carefully examine the condition of the wood. Lag it Basic structure, accordingly, they must be durable and reliable. If the number of rotten lags does not exceed 20-30%, then it is worth tinkering with their restoration;
In general, according to the rules, the damaged beam must be removed completely, and the same one must be installed in its place. But this work is not for an amateur, there are too many small, professional subtleties. When I first encountered the problem of partial replacement of the support beam, I did it simply. - I cut out the rotten sector, and in its place I inserted the same part of a healthy beam. I fixed this sector to self-tapping screws using 4 standard metal corners of 35 mm, making an overlap on the old beam of about 50 cm.But if the corners were not at hand, you can fill it on both sides regular board with a thickness of about 30 mm;
Now you can start arranging the sub-floor. Opinions about how to do this correctly among builders vary. The classical technology looks something like this: on both sides of each log, a so-called supporting cranial bar is stuffed along the lower edge. I recommend taking a cross-section of at least 30x30 mm, if you take a thinner one, then it may not withstand the load or burst from a nail or self-tapping screw;

Installation of insulation with a ventilation gap.

The distance between the lags often fluctuates in the region of 50 - 70 cm. In our version, the subfloor will be assembled from boards laid on the cranial beam, perpendicular to the lags. Therefore, we will first need to cut these boards and soak them well with an antiseptic, since they are located directly above the ground. For these purposes, a non-edged board with a thickness of about 20 - 30 mm is well suited. The question of what can be impregnated is solved simply: the market is full of various impregnations, but I went the simplest way, dipped each board in the processing of machine oil;
I am often asked the question whether it is necessary to fasten the subfloor planks to the logs or the support cranial bar. So, as I saw and did it myself, these planks just fit on the cranial beam and that's it. Moreover, when you measure and cut the strips, they need to be done 10 - 15 mm narrower than the gap between the lags. This tolerance is required to compensate for temperature and moisture deformations of wood;

Insulation scheme for lags.

Further, the instruction prescribes to lay a layer of hydro or vapor barrier on the subfloor. The difference is this: if the soil under the house is dry and there is no abundant spring flood in your area, then it is necessary to install a vapor barrier membrane, and so that the steam freely leaves the insulation, but in no case penetrates from the soil into the insulation. Waterproofing is installed in places with high level groundwater and on wet soils. Technical polyethylene or roofing felt is most often used as waterproofing. Any of these membranes is covered with a continuous overlap layer, on top of the lag, in such a way that the subfloor is completely covered, without any gaps or crevices. I usually fix such a canvas with a stapler;
The insulation of your choice is laid in the resulting improvised boxes. How it is possible, and also the better to insulate the floor in a wooden house, I will tell you in detail a little later, now we will not dwell on this;

Plate insulation flush with the lags.

The presence or absence of a vapor barrier sheet on top of the insulation is determined by the materials chosen for the insulation. But in any case, between the final wood flooring and a small ventilation gap, 20 - 30 mm, should remain with a layer of insulation. For this, if possible, the insulation is mounted slightly, below the upper cut of the lag. If this is not possible and the material is laid flush with the lags, then you will have to fill the wooden counter crate perpendicular to the lags, with a step of 30 - 40 cm.
Moreover, hydro or vapor barrier, if needed, should be under the counter crate. Otherwise, if the clean wooden floor is not provided with proper ventilation from below, the boards will sooner or later begin to deteriorate;
The top layer, of course, is the finishing wood coating.

Filling the floor with ecowool.

Option number 2. We insulate the floor above the cellar

Correct floor insulation from below in a wooden house, in general, is carried out using a similar technology, but believe me, this is much easier to do. Indeed, provided that the finish coating is in a normal state, you do not need to disassemble it. The rest of the technology is the same, only all actions are performed in reverse.

Sub-floor laid on the cranial beam.

According to the rules, in order for the insulation not to "stick" to the finished coating and the necessary ventilation gap remains, it is necessary to fill in the upper part of the log, on the border with the finished floor, a small cranial block 20-30 mm. But to be honest, I never do that. It is much easier to fix the vapor barrier membrane with a stapler just below the finished floor. Nobody forces you to measure everything clearly, the main thing is that there is a ventilation gap;
I also don't see much point in mounting a cranial beam and hemming a sub-floor from planks on the ceiling of the basement using the previous technology. After laying the insulation in the niches, so that it does not fall out immediately, I stuff a row of small nails onto the logs and pull several strings of fishing line or wire;

Installation of insulation from below.

Further from below, with the same stapler, a waterproofing sheet is attached to the logs. And on top of this canvas, to strengthen the structure, an unedged board or an ordinary slab is stuffed. If the basement is damp and there is often water in it, then it makes sense instead unedged boards Sew on the ceiling a galvanized profile for plasterboard. I usually fasten it with a step of 20-30 cm, in any case, it is only needed so that the insulation does not fall out.

Floor insulation algorithm.

The second floor, more precisely a wooden one, is being equipped using a similar technology. interfloor overlap between the first and second floors along the logs. The only difference is that instead of a subfloor layer, lining or some kind of sheet material, such as plywood or drywall, is most often sewn from below.

Floor plan.

Option number 3. We insulate the floor of a wooden house standing on a concrete slab

Floor in a wooden house on solid concrete base can be insulated using two technologies: installation on logs and arrangement of the screed. The choice depends on what kind of end result you want to see and how much money you are willing to spend on all this. Most often in such houses the first option is used, according to which at the finish you get a covering from a natural floorboard.

Reinforcing mesh under the screed on Penoplex.

Compared to the two previous options, a concrete slab, in my opinion, is much easier to insulate. As a rule, such a base initially has an absolutely flat plane, in addition, the weight of the insulating structure itself does not matter here.

According to the first method, you need to mount a wooden crate on the slab. She will replace us with those same bearing logs.

Only first, the concrete must be covered with a layer of waterproofing. In this case, technical polyethylene is quite enough. The thickness of the lathing bars depends on the type of insulation.

For a full-fledged floorboard with a thickness of 40 mm or more, the step of laying the lathing guides ranges from 50 - 70 cm.In the case when it is planned to sew up the floor with thick plywood or OSB, the step is about 30 - 40 cm.

Thermal insulation of a wooden floor on concrete.

The lathing bars are attached to the concrete slab with anchors. After that, just like when installing from above, insulation is laid in the niches, and a finishing coating is sewn on top of it.

Thermal insulation of a concrete slab under a screed is made even easier. Looking a little ahead, I will say that the best insulation here is extruded polystyrene foam, better known here as Penoplex. I will talk about its capabilities later, but now let's get back to the technology.

So this Penoplex, in a continuous layer, is laid on a flat concrete slab, attached to it and all the cracks are blown out with foam. Then you can choose: either lay a metal reinforcing mesh on it and pour a screed, or equip a flooring of plywood, OSB or drywall and mount a laminate on it using floating technology.

Reinforced screed on expanded clay.

If you are interested in a blank for the "warm floor" system, then both for the electric and for the water version, the base made of extruded polystyrene foam is perfect.

In addition to extruded polystyrene foam, such a floor can be insulated with expanded clay. Of course, you will have to tinker more, but the price of such insulation will be incomparably less.

The technology is about the same here. Initially, the concrete is covered with a waterproofing film with an approach to the walls, just above the final coating. Further, a layer of expanded clay is filled up and leveled out along the horizon.

Warming with expanded clay.

You can put reinforcement on expanded clay and pour cement-sand mortar, This will wet screed... Or lay a double layer of plywood, OSB or drywall, this is already called a dry floating screed.

Choosing a heater

We figured out how to make the insulation itself, now it remains to find out which insulation for the floor in a wooden house is more suitable in a given situation. To make it easier for you to understand, I conventionally divided all the materials into 2 large areas:

Budget, that is, not expensive;
And what is now called new technologies, respectively, their cost is an order of magnitude higher.

Traditional budget heaters

Wooden sawdust is deservedly considered the patriarch in this direction. It is not difficult to guess that the price for them is penny, if you try very hard, you can even get it for free. But in order for this material to be used as insulation, it must be well prepared. Otherwise, after a couple of months, the sawdust will simply start to rot.

First of all, remember, sawdust must be kept in a dry place for at least a year, freshly sawn material is not suitable. And in order for the mice not to arrange a hostel in this heater, you need to add slaked lime there.

Since we are talking about self-cooking, I will take the liberty of giving you 2 of the most popular recipes:

Sawdust as an environmentally friendly insulation.

For the floor, the bulk option is best suited. Here, 8 parts of dry sawdust will need to be thoroughly mixed with two parts of dry slaked lime powder, in stores such lime is called fluff. In principle, the material is ready, now it can be poured into the space between the rough and final floor. Just to achieve the expected effect, in the middle zone of our great homeland, this layer should be at least 150-200 mm. And in the northern regions, it can reach up to 300 and even 400 mm;

Fluff lime.

It is much easier to work with slabs. But these slabs will need to be made first. In the composition of the solution, in addition to sawdust, the same fluff is present, and cement is added as a binder. The standard proportion is 8/1/1 (sawdust / lime / cement). Naturally, all this is abundantly wetted and mixed well. When the solution is ready, it is poured into molds and lightly compacted. V warm time years, after about a week the boards will dry and be ready for use. It is possible to lay the raw mixture directly on the floor, but in this case you will not be able to sew up the finish coating, because you will have to wait a couple of weeks for the solution to dry completely.

Sawdust insulation board.

The second number we have is expanded clay. This material is widely used in our country. Expanded clay is a granules of foamed and fired clay. The material is porous, lightweight, strong and durable. Its only drawback is hygroscopicity, expanded clay is able to absorb moisture. Hence the conclusion that expanded clay requires mandatory installation of waterproofing.
As for the depth of insulation, it is about the same as that of wood sawdust. For arranging the floor in a wooden house, you should use 2 fractions of expanded clay, gravel and sand. This will make your embankment denser;

Different fractions of expanded clay.

But perhaps the most popular floor insulation in the budget sector is polystyrene foam. The material is comfortable in almost every way. In the underground, protected from all sides, the foam will lie indefinitely. Where sawdust or expanded clay needs to be filled up with a minimum thickness of 150 mm, it is enough to install foam plastic with a thickness of only 50 mm. This insulation is absolutely indifferent to moisture and waterproofing is installed here only to protect the wood itself. To install it, you only need to cut the slab exactly to the size of the niche, insert it and blow out the gaps with polyurethane foam.
In a wooden house, the weak point of the foam laid in the floor is rodents. They really like to arrange their nests in it and it is almost impossible to fight this folk methods;

Thermal insulation of a wooden floor with polystyrene foam.

It would not be fair to skip such a common insulation as mineral wool. You can't call it really cheap, but there are several in the line inexpensive models... In particular, glass wool and soft mineral wool mats are not expensive.

But honestly, I do not recommend them to you, this material quickly cakes, mice love it and when it gets wet it completely loses its qualities. No matter how hard you try, the soft cotton wool will have to be changed about once every 10 years.

There are also mineral wool basalt slabs, they are more expensive, but their density and quality are much higher. I recommend that if you install cotton wool, then take only slabs with a thickness of about 100m.

Basalt mineral wool slabs.

Of all the above budget options only sawdust and polystyrene are considered combustible. Expanded clay and cotton wool are the standard fire safety.

New technologies

Among the newfangled heaters, extruded polystyrene foam is now breaking all records of popularity. It is a modern derivative of polystyrene, both materials are made from styrene granules, the only difference is in technology. Plates of extruded polystyrene foam have a closed cell structure. As a result, the material does not allow moisture to pass through, but even steam. In fact, we are dealing with a good waterproofing agent. Above, I already mentioned that Penoplex can be laid in a screed, due to the fantastic strength of extruded polystyrene foam.
If this material can be used to insulate airfields, roads and concrete foundations, then there is nothing to say about the strength of a small screed in a wooden house. Besides, mice don't particularly like him either;

Insulation by Penoplex from the basement side.

The next number we have is the so-called ecowool. It consists of about 80% cellulose, the remaining 20% are fire retardants and antiseptics. In the production of ecowool, it is not very expensive, because cellulose is obtained from shredded waste paper. I think that the high price here is more likely due to the fact that the material is new. There are two ways to mount such a heater. If you are interested in self-assembly, then the cotton wool is simply poured into the floor cells and fluffed up with a construction mixer.
But it is better to order machine blowing. In this case, with the help of a compressor, cotton wool is blown onto any, including vertical and overhanging surfaces. Ecowool has one advantage over other modern heaters, if you are confident in the high-quality installation of the rough and finished floor, then in old houses you can simply make a hole and blow the entire subfloor with ecowool through it;

Ecowool puffing.

Polyurethane foam is quite expensive. It is impossible to apply this material to any surface with your own hands; here you need professional equipment and specialists with the appropriate qualifications. According to its characteristics, polyurethane foam is close to extruded polystyrene foam, only it will not withstand the screed. The best option here is the foaming of the floor from below in a wet basement. The fact is that the foam will hermetically close the tree from below, and the warranty period of operation of such a heater starts at 30 years;

Filling with polyurethane foam.

Penoizol will cost less than polyurethane foam. But it also needs specialists to apply it. Personally, in the case of floor insulation in a wooden house, I do not see much reason to pay for such material. Indeed, in fact, penoizol is the same foam, only in liquid form. Of all the advantages, only quick installation and a hermetically sealed continuous coating;

Filling with penoizol.

Finally, I would like to talk about the so-called isolone. In a nutshell, izolon is foamed polyethylene. It can be covered on one or both sides with foil, and also go without foil covering. But it is difficult to call it an independent insulation for the floor in a wooden house, most of the models are up to 10 mm thick. With such a thickness, the isolon can only be used as an auxiliary coating. In particular, it is used in the arrangement of an electric underfloor heating. Or sometimes they are additionally covered with cotton wool. Foil isolon is a good waterproofing agent, and personally, I often mount it instead of the top insulating layer under the finishing coat.

Isolone canvas.

Output

Insulating the floor in a wooden house with your own hands is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. If you choose the right insulation and prepare well, then the floors in a medium-sized house can be equipped in a maximum of a week. In the photo and video in this article, I have placed additional information on the topic of insulation. If you have any questions, write them in the comments, I will try to help.

Warm floor in a wooden house.

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How important is floor insulation in a wooden dwelling for you?

How to insulate a floor in a wooden house without disassembling the floor?

For comfort and convenience in a personal home, it is not enough to have walls and a roof.

It is extremely important that the housing is always cozy in winter and comfortable in summer. Therefore, it is extremely important how painstakingly you treat the floor insulation in a wooden house. This circumstance helps to create, not only generally favorable, the microclimate of your home. cold winter, and you will also feel how the heating costs of your mansion have dropped significantly. Since directly through a non-insulated floor, up to one third of the heat you create can go away.

High-quality thermal insulation of the floor makes it possible to maintain the obviously required temperature in the building as a whole, and prevents excessive moisture, mold, and condensation from escaping into the space of rooms. The great popularity of this method of erecting wooden buildings has set the urgent task of how to insulate the floor in a wooden house without disassembling the floor and what technologies and, of course, materials can be assembled to achieve the desired goal?

And so let's start the selection of materials for insulation.

The essential quality of insulation of floor structures is directly related to the insulation of housing. And it all depends on the correct choice of materials. Progressive industry in all countries offers a fairly diverse selection of all kinds of various thermal insulation.

Fiberglass, stone or mineral wool. All these materials are distinguished by the highest level of technological thermal insulation and greater noise absorption. If a single-layer insulation is made, mats made from these bulk materials or loose insulation rolled into rolls are used. The most elastic options are considered to be thermal insulation in mats, the so-called lumpy performance, they are also the most durable.

How to cheaply insulate a wooden floor in a house?

Penoplex, as well as expanded polystyrene, are heat-insulating materials that can be used to insulate almost all systems. Most of them differ, first of all, by their low price. These materials are relatively durable, and at the same time, for their level, provide excellent thermal insulation of structures.

Thermal insulation is carried out from such materials, by spraying or laying. This method is considered more economical, successful and technologically advanced. More such insulation is performed in new dwellings.

Mineral wool;

Low thermal conductivity;
The material is loose and free-flowing, therefore not dense;
Great water repellency;
Long-term resistance to decomposition;
Improved price-quality ratio;
Purity of the material in accordance with GOST for ecology;
Chem. resistance to the surrounding environment;
Resistance to a variety of microorganisms;
Elementary assembly and processing;
Natural ecological impeccability.

For the sake of an environmentally friendly log building, as a rule, only materials that are environmentally flawless are applicable. An important question in this selection of the basis for insulation is not to spoil this impeccable aura, which the log walls and floor are ready to form. For this reason, the selection of thermal insulation is also forced to comply with environmental friendliness conditions.

The use of fiberglass or rotisite wool absolutely meets the environmental conditions. It is only necessary to take into account one fact that in a situation of non-use, for the purpose of connecting fibers, in these materials used, harmless resins. The presence of phenol-formaldehyde resin in mineral wool insulation can be seen due to the brownish tint of the material used. These additives make the fiberglass yellowish.

The safety of using expanded polystyrene for the floor is in direct proportion to the density property of the material used. It is important that the floor is thoroughly dried so that the insulation materials do not retain compounds that quickly evaporate, which are ready to poison the human body when the temperature rises. For example, styrene is also capable of provoking such diseases in humans as toxic hepatitis, leukemia, and so on.

Foam insulation technology

When selecting and using materials for the purpose of floor insulation, it is important to carefully study their composition and get acquainted with the certificates of their environmental protection. Most of the current thermal insulation materials used are made in compliance with all international environmental conditions. In these materials used, the binding link is considered to be a combination of acrylic and latex, which are safe for well-being.

Thermal insulation service life;

Establish the degree to which the applied thermal insulation will be reliable, for the purpose of floor insulation, on this moment pretty hard. In the selection of types of insulation, many of their properties should be taken into account.

For example, many used materials, after pressure on them, a certain load, no longer restore their original size. In this case, there is one caveat, many of their fibers simply break. For this reason, such materials used poorly adhere to beams and floor joists. Such systems create conditions for the emergence of cold bridges. In addition, in areas of non-compact thermal insulation, condensation is likely to occur.

In order to select a high-quality insulation, press on a small piece of it (for example, you can put your foot on it). If, after this pressure, it acquires its own initial configuration, it is possible to acquire it. If the material remains thin, it will not work for you in any way.

How to increase the thermal insulation properties of the floor?

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house without disassembling it?

Naturally, one cannot be limited to heat-insulating mats made of moisture-proof plywood when insulating. For example, specialized insulated types are very often used. finishing material which has been used, such as, heat-insulating thick linoleum, double carpet flooring.

Often, fibreboards or fibreboards or other usable materials are laid directly underneath finished flooring, such as parquet flooring.

Double floor

An additional type of insulation of a log building, especially its 1st floor, is considered to be an additional insulation of the base of the house. In addition, it is necessary to thoroughly control everything, without exception. ventilation holes basement rooms.

Thus, the question arises, how to insulate the floors in a wooden house? The type of insulation in the double floor version is used quite often. In this case, the initial layer will be the preliminary flooring, for example, from rough boards, thoroughly fixed to the beams. The tightness of the adhesion of the rough boards to each other is very significant, since the cracks should not be left in any way. On top of them, an ordinary finishing flooring is applied, and then (if necessary) topcoat various decorating materials.

Instead of a dirty floor, a variety of flooring is often used. In the property of similar floorings, embossed or smoothed floor coverings are often used, which have a high degree of thermal insulation. Such used materials do not in any way concentrate garbage, and from their plane you can simply sweep away all kinds of specks and dust, or pick up with a vacuum cleaner.

Such and similar coatings are simply glued to the floor with bustilate glue, spreading it in the form of strips on the used material. The joints are thoroughly glued.

Thermal insulation with fiberboard support

The use of wood fiber insulation for the purpose of floor insulation may be quite common. Fiber boards have every chance to fit both under the topcoat and on the boards of the main floor, for example, under parquet, linoleum, cavrolin, laminate or other used materials.

Plates are laid in the floor one by one, following the accuracy and uniformity of the joints, avoiding all kinds of cracks. For the purpose of such work, can be applied Various types slabs. The more famous are PT-STO and M-20. These slabs prevent underfloor frost from entering the housing. In addition, the use of fiberboard insulation is an addition to the use of rotisite wool or other types of thermal insulation.

Hot floors concept

One of the most well-known technologies is the concept of "hot floors". In particular, this concept is often used when pouring a floor in the base. cement screed that needs heating. This concept is applied in combination with the use of classic materials used for the purpose of insulation.

This concept makes it possible to achieve measured heating of the floor plane. A more comfortable cryo temperature is formed, in absolutely the whole room, and by no means just under the ceiling. Moisture in the building is significantly reduced. It is especially important to use hot floors in the 1st floors of a wooden building.

Hot water floor concept

A similar concept is produced in the following order:

The base of the floor (cement screed) is poured or concrete slabs are laid.
One or another insulation is laid, its layer can have from 2 up to 10 cm.
Reinforcement grid is being laid.
The piping concept is being installed. It is reinforced with plastic clamps to the reinforcement grill.
Floor bay is produced optimal materials(concept of flooded floors).
The substrate is used if necessary.
Then the finishing floors, the so-called floor coverings, are placed.

Electric "hot floors" in a wooden house

It is much easier to implement electric hot floors. Perhaps apply cable systems or film heating components. In this case, the wire has the ability to be stretched in an iron mesh fixed to the lags.

If infrared electrical film materials are used, they can be placed directly in the screed, protected by a gasket made of heat-insulating materials.

When performing thermal insulation using a wooden floor or parquet, keep at least 1 centimeter distance between the wall and the floor. A tree is always able to change its own volumes and shapes, depending on moisture and temperature.

It is more correct to carry out thermal insulation activities even during the construction period of the building, taking into account it when designing.

The paired floor concept is considered predominant. This concept guarantees adequate ventilation and makes it possible to exclude the occurrence of mold and mildew.

Additional thermal insulation should be done with simple materials, so as not to form a significant load on the base of the house.

Materials, for the purpose of thermal insulation, must be environmentally friendly, not hazardous and non-flammable.

Insulation tips

When performing thermal insulation using a wooden floor or parquet, leave no less than 1 centimeter gap between the wall and the floor. Since the tree is able to change its volume and shape, depending on moisture and temperature.

It is more correct to carry out thermal insulation activities even during the construction of the building, taking it into account when designing.

The dual concept of the floor is considered to be advantageous. This concept guarantees adequate ventilation and makes it possible to exclude the occurrence of mold and mildew.

The implementation of additional thermal insulation should be done with simple and time-tested materials in order not to form a significant load on the base of the house.

Materials for thermal insulation must be environmentally friendly and non-hazardous and non-flammable.

What does the European market of thermal insulation materials offer today?

The variety of heat-insulating materials used in today's construction market often leads consumers to a stalemate. In order to correctly select the material used, you should understand it specific traits and ability.

Material; Insulate.

It is a heat insulating coil made in China. The property of the material is quite high, at a low cost. Insulation is suitable for thermal insulation purposes different systems.

Material; Ursa

URSA Insulation material

One of the most famous thermal insulation materials. This source is used more for the purpose of horizontal planes. Having at its disposal a low cost, good thermal and sound insulation properties.

Material; Thermolife

It is used for small loads on thermal insulation. It is more used for the purpose of insulating the walls of the roof, or floors, or interfloor spaces. Suitable for horizontal, steep and oblique surfaces.

Similar thermal insulation materials are no less common, such as: Tepleks, Isovent, Isolight, Rockwool, Penoplex and numerous other types of thermal insulation. It is important to make the right choice in the interests of your own wooden building.

25999 0 21

Independent floor insulation in a wooden house - 3 options for high-quality installation

Most modern people associate wooden houses with comfort and warmth. And in principle this is true, because wood is a living, natural, breathable material. But many of my friends are methodically stepping on the same rake, forgetting that floor insulation in a wooden house is no less important than wall and roof insulation. In this material, I will first tell you how to insulate the floor in a wooden house in the three most affordable ways, and then I will go personally through the use of each type of insulation specifically for wooden buildings.

Design options for floor insulation in wooden houses

Any major types of work in wooden houses, including the insulation of walls and floors, are recommended to be carried out only after the end of the shrinkage of the structure. And this shrinkage in a house assembled from a dry forest lasts about a year. If freshly sawn timber was used for construction, then shrinkage can last up to 5 - 7 years.

Option number 1. Arrangement of thermal insulation in a house with a low underground

As you probably already guessed, if in a private house there is a low subfloor, then the floors will have to be insulated from above... And for this we need to disassemble the entire structure completely, leaving only the bearing logs;

If the boards and skirting boards of the finished floor are in good condition, and you are not determined to completely change them, then when you tear off the flooring, be sure to draw yourself a sketch of the masonry and number each board. This will save you a lot of time and effort when you start putting everything back in place.

When you have free access to the logs, the first thing to do is to carefully examine the condition of the wood. Lags are a supporting structure, so they must be strong and reliable. If the number of rotten lags does not exceed 20-30%, then it is worth tinkering with their restoration;
In general, according to the rules, the damaged beam must be removed completely, and the same one must be installed in its place. But this work is not for an amateur, there are too many small, professional subtleties. When I first encountered the problem of partial replacement of the support beam, I did it simply. - I cut out the rotten sector, and in its place I inserted the same part of a healthy beam.
I fixed this sector to self-tapping screws using 4 standard metal corners of 35 mm, making an overlap on the old beam of about 50 cm.But if there were no corners at hand, you can fill an ordinary board with a thickness of about 30 mm from both sides;
Now you can start arranging the sub-floor. Opinions about how to do this correctly among builders vary. The classical technology looks something like this: on both sides of each log, a so-called supporting cranial bar is stuffed along the lower edge. I recommend taking a cross-section of at least 30x30 mm, if you take a thinner one, then it may not withstand the load or burst from a nail or self-tapping screw;

The distance between the lags often fluctuates in the region of 50 - 70 cm. In our version, the subfloor will be assembled from boards laid on the cranial beam, perpendicular to the lags. Therefore, we will first need to cut these boards and soak them well with an antiseptic, since they are located directly above the ground.
For these purposes, a non-edged board with a thickness of about 20 - 30 mm is well suited. The question of what can be impregnated is solved simply: the market is full of various impregnations, but I went the simplest way, dipped each board in the processing of machine oil;
I am often asked the question whether it is necessary to fasten the subfloor planks to the logs or the support cranial bar. So, as I saw and did it myself, these planks just fit on the cranial beam and that's it.
Moreover, when you measure and cut the strips, they need to be done 10 - 15 mm narrower than the gap between the lags. This tolerance is required to compensate for temperature and moisture deformations of wood;

Further, the instruction prescribes to lay a layer of hydro or vapor barrier on the subfloor. The difference is this: if the soil under the house is dry and there is no abundant spring flood in your area, then it is necessary to install a vapor barrier membrane, and so that the steam freely leaves the insulation, but in no case penetrates from the soil into the insulation.
Waterproofing is installed in places with a high level of groundwater and on damp soils. Technical polyethylene or roofing felt is most often used as waterproofing. Any of these membranes is covered with a continuous overlap layer, on top of the lag, in such a way that the subfloor is completely covered, without any gaps or crevices. I usually fix such a canvas with a stapler;
The insulation of your choice is laid in the resulting improvised boxes. How it is possible, and also the better to insulate the floor in a wooden house, I will tell you in detail a little later, now we will not dwell on this;

The presence or absence of a vapor barrier sheet on top of the insulation is determined by the materials chosen for the insulation. But in any case, a small ventilation gap, 20 - 30 mm, should remain between the finished wooden flooring and the insulation layer.
For this, if possible, the insulation is mounted slightly, below the upper cut of the lag. If this is not possible and the material is laid flush with the lags, then you will have to fill the wooden counter crate perpendicular to the lags, with a step of 30 - 40 cm.
Moreover, hydro or vapor barrier, if needed, should be under the counter crate. Otherwise, if the clean wooden floor is not provided with proper ventilation from below, the boards will sooner or later begin to deteriorate;
The top layer, of course, is the finishing wood coating.

Option number 2. We insulate the floor above the cellar

Correct floor insulation from below in a wooden house, in general, is carried out using a similar technology, but believe me, this is much easier. Indeed, provided that the finish coating is in a normal state, you do not need to disassemble it. The rest of the technology is the same, only all actions are performed in reverse.

According to the rules, in order for the insulation not to "stick" to the finished coating and the necessary ventilation gap remains, it is necessary to fill in the upper part of the log, on the border with the finished floor, a small cranial block 20-30 mm. But to be honest, I never do that.
It is much easier to fix the vapor barrier membrane with a stapler just below the finished floor. Nobody forces you to measure everything clearly, the main thing is that there is a ventilation gap;
I also don't see much point in mounting a cranial beam and hemming a sub-floor from planks on the ceiling of the basement using the previous technology. After laying the insulation in the niches, so that it does not fall out immediately, I stuff a row of small nails onto the logs and pull several strings of fishing line or wire;

Further from below, with the same stapler, a waterproofing sheet is attached to the logs. And on top of this canvas, to strengthen the structure, an unedged board or an ordinary slab is stuffed. If the basement is damp and there is often water in it, then it makes sense to sew on the ceiling a galvanized profile for drywall instead of unedged boards. I usually fasten it with a step of 20-30 cm, in any case, it is only needed so that the insulation does not fall out.

A similar technology is used to equip the second floor, more precisely, a wooden interfloor ceiling between the first and second floors along the logs. The only difference is that instead of a subfloor layer, some sheet material, such as plywood or drywall, is most often sewn from below.

Option number 3. We insulate the floor of a wooden house standing on a concrete slab

The floor in a wooden house on a solid concrete base can be insulated using two technologies: installation on logs and arrangement of a screed. The choice depends on what kind of end result you want to see and how much money you are willing to spend on all this. Most often in such houses the first option is used, according to which at the finish you get a covering from a natural floorboard.

According to the first method, you need to mount a wooden crate on the slab. She will replace us with those same bearing logs.

Only first, the concrete must be covered with a layer of waterproofing. In this case, technical polyethylene is quite enough. The thickness of the lathing bars depends on the type of insulation.

The lathing bars are attached to the concrete slab with anchors. After that, just like when installing from above, insulation is laid in the niches, and a finishing coating is sewn on top of it.

If you are interested in a blank for the "warm floor" system, then both for the electric and for the water version, the base made of extruded polystyrene foam is perfect.

In addition to extruded polystyrene foam, such a floor can be insulated with expanded clay. Of course, you will have to tinker more, but the price of such insulation will be incomparably less.

You can put reinforcement on expanded clay and pour a cement-sand mortar, it will be a wet screed. Or lay a double layer of plywood, OSB or drywall, this is already called a dry floating screed.

Choosing a heater

Budget, that is, not expensive;
And what is now called new technologies, respectively, their cost is an order of magnitude higher.

Traditional budget heaters

Wooden sawdust is deservedly considered the patriarch in this direction. It is not difficult to guess that the price for them is penny, if you try very hard, you can even get it for free. But in order for this material to be used as insulation, it must be well prepared. Otherwise, after a couple of months, the sawdust will simply start to rot.

First of all, remember, sawdust must be kept in a dry place for at least a year, freshly sawn material is not suitable. And in order for the mice not to arrange a hostel in this heater, you need to add slaked lime there.

Since we are talking about self-cooking, I will take the liberty of giving you 2 of the most popular recipes:

For the floor, the bulk option is best suited. Here, 8 parts of dry sawdust will need to be thoroughly mixed with two parts of dry slaked lime powder, in stores such lime is called fluff. In principle, the material is ready, now it can be poured into the space between the rough and final floor.
Just to achieve the expected effect, in the middle zone of our great homeland, this layer should be at least 150-200 mm. And in the northern regions, it can reach up to 300 and even 400 mm;

It is much easier to work with slabs. But these slabs will need to be made first. In the composition of the solution, in addition to sawdust, the same fluff is present, and cement is added as a binder. The standard proportion is 8/1/1 (sawdust / lime / cement).
Naturally, all this is abundantly wetted and mixed well. When the solution is ready, it is poured into molds and lightly compacted. In warmer months, after about a week, the plates will dry and be ready for use. It is possible to lay the raw mixture directly on the floor, but in this case you will not be able to sew up the finish coating, because you will have to wait a couple of weeks for the solution to dry completely.

The second number we have is expanded clay. This material is widely used in our country. Expanded clay is a granules of foamed and fired clay. The material is porous, lightweight, strong and durable.
Its only drawback is hygroscopicity, expanded clay is able to absorb moisture. Hence the conclusion that expanded clay requires mandatory installation of waterproofing.
As for the depth of insulation, it is about the same as that of wood sawdust. For arranging the floor in a wooden house, you should use 2 fractions of expanded clay, gravel and sand. This will make your embankment denser;

But perhaps the most popular floor insulation in the budget sector is polystyrene foam. The material is comfortable in almost every way. In the underground, protected from all sides, the foam will lie indefinitely. Where sawdust or expanded clay needs to be filled up with a minimum thickness of 150 mm, it is enough to install foam plastic with a thickness of only 50 mm.
This insulation is absolutely indifferent to moisture and waterproofing is installed here only to protect the wood itself. To install it, you only need to cut the slab exactly to the size of the niche, insert it and blow out the gaps with polyurethane foam.
In a wooden house, the weak point of the foam laid in the floor is rodents. They really like to arrange their nests in it and it is almost impossible to fight this folk methods;

It would not be fair to skip such a common insulation as mineral wool. It is impossible to call it completely cheap, but there are several inexpensive models in the lineup. In particular, glass wool and soft mineral wool mats are not expensive.

Of all the above budgetary options for insulation, only sawdust and foam are considered combustible. Expanded clay and cotton wool are the standard of fire safety.

New technologies

Among the newfangled heaters, extruded polystyrene foam is now breaking all records of popularity. It is a modern derivative of polystyrene, both materials are made from styrene granules, the only difference is in technology.
Plates of extruded polystyrene foam have a closed cell structure. As a result, the material does not allow moisture to pass through, but even steam. In fact, we are dealing with a good waterproofing agent. Above, I already mentioned that Penoplex can be laid in a screed, due to the fantastic strength of extruded polystyrene foam.
If this material can be used to insulate airfields, roads and concrete foundations, then there is nothing to say about the small strength in a wooden house. Besides, mice don't particularly like him either;

The next number we have is the so-called ecowool. It consists of about 80% cellulose, the remaining 20% are fire retardants and antiseptics. In the production of ecowool, it is not very expensive, because cellulose is obtained from shredded waste paper.
I think that the high price here is more likely due to the fact that the material is new. There are two ways to mount such a heater. If you are interested in self-assembly, then the cotton wool is simply poured into the floor cells and fluffed up with a construction mixer.
But it is better to order machine blowing. In this case, with the help of a compressor, cotton wool is blown onto any, including vertical and overhanging surfaces. Ecowool has one advantage over other modern heaters, if you are confident in the high-quality installation of the rough and finished floor, then in old houses you can simply make a hole and blow the entire subfloor with ecowool through it;

Polyurethane foam is quite expensive. It is impossible to apply this material to any surface with your own hands; here you need professional equipment and specialists with the appropriate qualifications.
According to its characteristics, polyurethane foam is close to extruded polystyrene foam, only it will not withstand the screed. The best option here is to foam the floor from below in a wet basement. The fact is that the foam will hermetically close the tree from below, and the warranty period of operation of such a heater starts at 30 years;

Penoizol will cost less than polyurethane foam. But it also needs specialists to apply it. Personally, in the case of floor insulation in a wooden house, I do not see much reason to pay for such material. Indeed, in fact, penoizol is the same foam, only in liquid form. Of all the advantages, only quick installation and a hermetically sealed continuous coating;

Finally, I would like to talk about the so-called isolone. In a nutshell, izolon is foamed polyethylene. It can be covered on one or both sides with foil, and also go without foil covering. But it is difficult to call it an independent insulation for the floor in a wooden house, most of the models are up to 10 mm thick.
With such a thickness, the isolon can only be used as an auxiliary coating. In particular, it is used in the arrangement of an electric underfloor heating. Or sometimes they are additionally covered with cotton wool. Foil isolon is a good waterproofing agent, and personally, I often mount it instead of the top insulating layer under the finishing coat.

Output

September 7, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Cold winters still exist, and you need to prepare well for them so that living in the house is 100 percent comfortable. Underfloor heating is the basis on which it depends on how pleasant it is to be indoors when it is cool outside. There are convenient options for insulating this part of the building without removing the top layer - it's easy to do it yourself if you follow simple recommendations.

We insulate the floors from the basement - when is it advisable?

Any wooden house quickly loses heat, this is due to the peculiarity of the material. Therefore, the insulation of all parts related to external environment, necessarily. Walls are only part of the overall structure, which must go through a thorough thermal blocking procedure. The process of working with the floor will solve such problems as:

excessive energy consumption for space heating;
high humidity - relevant for the transitional seasons;
decay of wooden building elements;
the appearance of fungus, mold, which poses a danger to the health of the inhabitants of the house.

Most often, in cottages, the floors are insulated above the cold basement, because in the cold season, they cool down quickly and have a low temperature, even if the room is heated with the help of their boiler system. Poor or no thermal insulation is icy floors that are useless to lay on carpets... The problem is solved only correct insulation, there are simple techniques that can be used without removing the old floor. It is better to spend once on such an event than to constantly spend extra gas or electricity on double heating of rooms.

In the event that the building has already been built, and there is a need for additional insulation of the floors, it is more expedient to do this from below, i.e. without removing floor coverings.Benefits of the lower technique:

the ceiling height in the rooms will remain the same, since there will be no need to raise the floors due to the insulation;
there is no need to specially spend money on insulating compounds of increased density and rigidity due to the load of furniture, appliances and other items in the house;
you will protect from freezing not only the floor itself, but also all floor structures, which will extend their service life and, in general, make the home warmer;
there will be a change in the location of the dew point from the inside to the floor surface - this will get rid of decay of wooden elements.

The method of floor insulation from below has only one limitation - the subfloor is too low, in which it is impossible to be in order to carry out work. Such cottage buildings are quite rare. If this is your case, choose the option of insulating floors from above, i.e. with the procedure for opening it and filling it with a suitable insulating material.

Minvata - fiber insulator

Mineral wool is a building insulation consisting of many fibers, presented in three separate types: glass; stone or basalt; slags. Basalt canvas is preferable for working with the floor, because it is easiest to install under the floor structure. Of the two options - roll and mats in the form of slabs - choose the second, because it keeps its shape well. Advantages:

good level of thermal insulation;
uncomplicated installation technology;
relatively low level of moisture perception from the environment;
reasonable price;
heat resistance and fire safety;
bacteria, mold, fungus do not grow in the material.

Disadvantages:

when laying with your own hands, you must use special protection - gloves, clothing, respirator, glasses, because there will be many particles of fibers and dust in the air, which cause irritation to the skin and respiratory system;
protection from moisture is required, because the structure is susceptible to vapor absorption;
with improper installation, severe shrinkage is possible;
when flooring between the logs, you need to leave a gap of 5 centimeters to the main structure.

If you decide to choose mineral fiber, select the material of the correct thickness. Specific data depend on the climatic zone, for example, for middle lane For Russia, an indicator of 100-150 millimeters is suitable. Basalt wool is suitable for all types of floors, including the attic.

Polyfoam - airy material from granules

Foam plastic consists of foamed PVC granules containing a maximum of air inside, this gives it good thermal insulation properties. Advantages:

has strength, stability, rigidity;
almost does not absorb moisture - the percentage is lower than that of mineral mats;
is lightweight;
easy to mount, because does not change shape;
is inexpensive;
durable, does not grow moldy, does not rot.

Disadvantages:

subject to fire;
fragile to break;
ventilation of the base is required, because does not allow steam and air to pass through.

For warming floors in an ordinary private house, foam plates of the PSB-S-15 brand with a thickness of ten centimeters are suitable. When buying, do not confuse them with granular polystyrene foam, which easily crumbles into small PVC balls. The latter can also be used as insulation if the repair budget is very small. The material has good thermal conductivity, but has a relatively short service life - no more than ten years.

Polyurethane foam - is a device needed to work with it?

This building material consists of two types of foam - light and hard. To work with the floor, the second option is used, because it does not require a special vapor barrier on the basement side and has the best thermal insulation characteristics... The first type is very similar to mineral wool - in the same way, when working with it, you will have to leave gaps for ventilation and waterproof the lower surface. PPU consists of two components:

1.polyol or hydroxyacid with emulsifiers, polyesters and foaming agents;
2. isocyanate or polyisocyanate and diphenylmethane diisocyanate mixed with each other, which are strong reagents in the complex.

Building material advantages:

fills all gaps and corners thanks to spraying technology;
suitable for bottom mounting;
does not shrink, is fireproof;
does not require protection from vapors;
durable - lasts up to 50 years;
high level of adhesion to all materials;
high speed of installation;
complete environmental friendliness;
has no seams, because is a single sheet after drying.

Among the shortcomings, one can single out the high cost, the need for skill in applying and the use of special equipment - a high-pressure apparatus, which can be rented.

Installation technology - how to keep warm quickly and efficiently?

Mineral wool and polystyrene, which look like slabs, are mounted on the "wrong side" of the floor from the side of the basement using the same technology. Attach bars with a cross section of 50 to 100 millimeters to the racks-beams from below. Lay a layer of material for thermal insulation on top, as if on shelves. The beams should be positioned under the "upper" floor at such a distance that a few centimeters are left between it and the upper surface for ventilation. Hem the heat-insulating "pie" from below with boards, apply waterproofing to prevent the penetration of vapors into the material from the basement side.

The waterproofing function can be performed by ordinary polyethylene film - this is the cheapest and convenient option... A moisture-proof membrane will cost more - it is stronger and does not prevent air movement, unlike cellophane. In order for the materials to serve longer, the film will need to cover the upper surface of the main thermal insulation. The order of arrangement of all layers from top to bottom will be as follows:

1.floor covering;
2. a screed made of concrete or expanded clay;
3.overlap;
4. vapor barrier from the side of the room;
5. a layer of mineral wool or foam;
6. waterproofing from the basement side;
7. holding boards.

Polyurethane foam is applied on a specially prepared floor surface; it is necessary to remove dust and debris from it and make sure that it is completely dry and free from grease. The foam does not adhere to polyethylene and greasy compounds. The procedure can be carried out at temperatures above 10 degrees, otherwise the material will not stick to the floor as it should.

For work, you need a high-pressure apparatus - it is very expensive to buy it, you can rent it from specialized firms. It connects to two tanks with the first and second components. When you press the start button, the compositions are combined in a vortex chamber, then they are sprayed in the form of a fine and light mass. The pressure in the car must be at least 140 atmospheres. When choosing a technology, pay attention to the current source - the required one must match your home network.

Apply polyurethane foam evenly, after putting on protective equipment - goggles, respirator, gloves. The procedure for performing by a professional is about an hour, if you are confident in your abilities, you can try it yourself, but it will take more time due to insufficient experience. Apply polyurethane foam not only to the interlag space, but also to the logs themselves - this will protect them from steam rising from the ground.

After applying a layer of about 10 centimeters, turn off the device and leave the room to dry. Complete hardening of the material and its ideal adhesion is achieved in two days. It is not necessary to specially process the layer from below, because it is not exposed to moisture and adheres well to the upper part of the floor.

Insulation of the floor in a wooden house: 15 best ways

The coldest surface of a house is, of course, the floor. This usually applies to the first floor of the least protected building, as well as detached wooden houses. Why is the floor in a lower-rise apartment always cold? This is due to the fact that the air rushes down. Drafts blow from under the floor from below. To minimize heat loss, you have to insulate the floor in the house.

This procedure is especially necessary in houses with classic eco-friendly wood flooring. Even if you put wood elements (boards) tightly together, they will dry out over time. From the crevices it will certainly start to see through. This will naturally lead to heat loss.

How to insulate the floor in a wooden house: the choice of material

The quality of flooring insulation directly depends on the correct choice of material. Today in Russian construction market there is a wide selection of heat insulators.

Penoplex, stone and mineral wool, expanded polystyrene and commonly used fiberglass are popular types of thermal insulation. Each of them has its own pros and cons. Which is better?

Fiberglass, stone and mineral wool - these materials have good thermal protection properties and excellent sound absorption. If you want to lay the insulation in one layer, then use a roll or mats. The latter are considered to be a more elastic and durable material. the site advises to lay the elements of insulation between the logs or under the rough flooring. Both options are acceptable.
Penoplex and expanded polystyrene can also be used. At the same time, they will delight you with a democratic price, high thermal insulation of the structure and durability. From these materials, thermal insulation is performed by spraying. This is an effective, reasonably fast and economical method. This method is most often used in new homes.

Advantage of expanded polystyrene:

minimal water absorption, and, accordingly, resistance to water;
excellent thermal insulation qualities;
form stability;
high strength material;
volume stability;
long service life;
biological type stability;
immunity to various microorganisms;
the material is environmentally friendly.

Benefits of mineral wool:

the material is low in density;
the level of thermal conductivity is negligible;
long operational life;
affordable price;
incombustibility;
environmentally friendly material;
high level of water repellency;
high chemical resistance.

All of the above materials meet environmental requirements:

The better the polystyrene foam, the more environmentally friendly it is. It must be dried well so that no volatile compounds remain in the material. Otherwise, at elevated temperatures, they can poison a person. Styrene can cause toxic hepatitis, rare leukemia, etc.
You will be able to fit into the tight bounds of ecology by using fiberglass or mineral wool, provided these materials use harmless resins. Phenol-formaldehyde resins, which are undesirable, can be identified by the brown or yellow tint of the material.

Durability of thermal insulation

Various qualities have to be taken into account when choosing a particular material. For example, with a certain load on the heat-protective layer, it will no longer be able to restore the original volume - some of the fibers will simply break. That is why such raw materials do not fit tightly to the joists and floor beams. As a result, cold bridges are inevitably created on structures. Condensation can also appear where the thermal insulation is loose.

In order not to make a mistake with the choice and buy insulation good quality, press on a small piece of it (for example, step). If after such a test it takes its former shape, then it suits you. If it remains wrinkled and flat, then it is best to refuse such a product.

Is it possible to improve the thermal insulation qualities? When insulating, you cannot do with mats alone. Insulated finishing options are often used: heat-insulating linoleums, double-layer carpets .. Other materials can also not be neglected. The ground floor can be made warmer by insulating the foundation. Basements must be carefully checked and all cracks must be repaired.

We insulate the wooden floor along the logs

Most often, floor insulation in a wooden house is implemented through the use of logs. It is quite simple to implement and at the same time very effective. In any case, you will be able to eliminate significant heat loss. This method is especially relevant for the basement and first floor, where the floors are closest to the ground.

The technology goes like this:

Install on the base of the T-bar. Observe the step by meter.
Then fix the boards or shields, on which you will later lay the insulation. They need to be fastened to a special type of cranial bars or hemmed from below.
Then place the insulation on the flooring between the joists.
Next, you have to take care of steam and waterproofing. True, the need for this procedure arises only in individual cases. It all depends on the type of insulation. So, this procedure will be relevant if you use ecowool or mineral wool. Lay the vapor barrier sheets with an overlap of fifteen centimeters. Its edges should "climb" on the wall by about ten centimeters. For waterproofing, you can use it as a simple plastic wrap and special kind of materials.
The final stage is installation and finishing of the flooring.

Important! You can also make thermal insulation of the floor along the logs, which are laid on even brick columns. Insulation boards must be laid between these posts (foam, fiberglass, mineral wool). A layer of insulation must be covered on top with a layer of vapor barrier.

An invariable advantage of thermal insulation along the logs is the ease of work. Moreover, the method is very effective. The insulation does not experience mechanical stress, therefore, any of the heat-insulating materials can be used.

What are the materials for floor insulation

Of course, choosing insulation is not easy. You can make the floor warmer in different ways using different materials:

isolone;
polyurethane foam;
polystyrene;
penofol;
mineral, glass, stone, slag wool;
ecowool.

For this purpose, sawdust, foam, expanded clay are perfect. The choice depends on the characteristics of the material, personal preferences and financial capabilities.

We insulate the sub floor

The whole procedure is carried out in lags.

Attach the bars to the sides of the fixed logs.
Fix the boards on them with screws or nails. The latter in length should correspond to the distance between the lags.
When an integral surface is formed, lay a vapor barrier on top: plastic wrap, glassine or some other material.
Next, lay the insulation between the logs.
Make sure that there are no gaps.
Next - another layer of vapor barrier. The subfloor is ready.

We insulate the floor with sawdust

Sawdust is one of the common types of insulation. Its main advantage is low cost and ease of filling. Insulation can penetrate even the most hard-to-reach places... It is also important to mention that this material is environmentally friendly. As a heater, sawdust can be used not only in its pure form, but also mixed with appropriate building materials.

Pellets and sawdust granules

it granular insulation made from a mixture of sawdust, glue based on carboxymethyl cellulose and fire retardant antiseptic. Thanks to such components, the insulation is not only an excellent heat insulator, but also antiseptic, hardly combustible.

Sawdust concrete

It can be obtained by mixing sawdust (mainly with conifers) with cement, sand and water. It is similar to cinder concrete in terms of thermal conductivity. This is an environmentally friendly material that requires good waterproofing (since it contains sawdust).

Arbolit

This material can be obtained by mixing cement with the required chemical components and organic fillers ( wood chips). Usually slabs are made from this material. They are distinguished by good heat and sound insulation properties. This insulation is non-combustible, easy to process, durable.

The main disadvantage- "not indifferent" to moisture.

Of all the above materials, sawdust most often acts as a heater (without adding impurities).

We insulate the floor with mineral wool

This is a very common, popular type of insulation. It can be slag, stone, glass. Absolute incombustibility is one of the main advantages. The advantages also include: chemical and biological resistance, thermal and noise protection properties.

The disadvantages should also be mentioned: low vapor permeability and mechanical strength.

The material is hygroscopic, resulting in a decrease in thermal insulation properties. Pay close attention to the vapor barrier when installing mineral wool. Such material also cannot be called absolutely safe for human health.

It is sold with plates and mats. The latter form is made from hydrophobized mineral wool. The blue stripe marks the hard side of the slab. Please note that the markings must point upwards when laying. Among manufacturers the most popular are Rockwool and Izovol.

It is based on mineral fibers. Izovol has low thermal conductivity. It has much more hydrophobic efficacy. In addition, it is chemically and biologically stable and non-flammable.

Basalt mineral insulation is a material of the Rockwool brand:

resistant to mechanical stress;
does not shrink during operation and practically does not deform;
chemically and biologically resistant, non-flammable;
low thermal conductivity of the flooring;
absorbs sounds well due to its porous structure.
excellent sound-absorbing properties.

Thermal insulation of floors with a mineral slab (video)

We insulate the floor with penofol

A new type of thermal insulation material. Not yet widely adopted.

This is a multilayer material that is supplied in rolls and consists of a reflective layer (aluminum foil) and insulation (almost any insulation) .. For example, polyethylene foam.

The classic version of this insulation is just polyethylene foam, which is held together by foil. However, all requirements modern construction this option cannot satisfy. That is why various types of penofol were invented.

The classic penofol has a higher density. It can withstand higher mechanical loads. Insulation can also be used as a hydro and vapor barrier. It will show itself perfectly in tandem with heaters of a different composition.

Penofol comes with two- and one-sided foil.

Penofol-2000 became a progressive version of penofol. Foamed gas-filled polyethylene is used as a base. It costs less than its classic representative.

There is penofol and type "C" - self-adhesive. It is multilayer: polyethylene foam, contact adhesive (moisture resistant) with a release film, aluminum foil. Such insulation can be fixed on any (with few exceptions) surface thanks to glue. Accordingly, it is very easy and quick to mount it.

The material is laid on the surface of the base. Sheets can be stacked either end-to-end or overlapped. The joints must be glued with metallized tape. If you use penofol, then hydro- and vapor barrier is not necessary. Everything will be provided by aluminum foil. We recommend that you familiarize yourself with the material about.

We insulate the floor with foam

Also one of the leading types of insulation. Possesses:

low vapor permeability;
significant fire resistance;
high strength;
low thermal conductivity;
chemical and biological resistance;
does not grow moldy;
not suitable for rodents;
high performance layer.

The disadvantages include the fact that it absorbs moisture, losing some of its properties. When using such a heater, you need to pay attention to hydro and vapor barrier.

For insulation, both foamed and extruded foam are suitable. The latter has a solid structure - a mass of closed cells filled with gas molecules.

Of course, insulation has both pros and cons. The advantages include hygroscopicity, low thermal conductivity, durability, fire safety. By cons - harmful effect on the human body.

We insulate the floor with ecowool

This insulation is made of natural materials... It consists of 78-81% waste paper, the rest is natural additives - a mixture of cellulose fibers. The binder is an organic antiseptic lignin and boric acid.

The main advantage of ecowool is safety for humans. The advantages also include:

fire safety (smolders, not burns);
low thermal conductivity;
after drying, it restores the properties of thermal insulation.

The disadvantages include the high cost.

Ecowool can be applied to the surface in different ways:

manually. Plates of cotton wool will need to be laid between the bars on boards or boards hemmed from below. The main thing is to lay the insulation tightly and treat the joints with polyurethane foam;
with the help of special devices - mobile blowing machines. Under the influence of pressure, the insulation is fed through the hose. There are two ways here: dry (ecowool is blown into the floor cavity) and wet (ecowool is applied to the walls).

Ecowool laying (video)

We insulate the floor with isolon

Insulation of a new generation. It is made of expanded polyethylene foam. Izolon was developed taking into account the new requirements for floor insulation. Has a number of advantages:

small thickness - 2.1-10.0 cm. It is noteworthy that the level of thermal conductivity does not increase in this case;
goes well with any material. Ideal for any gender;
does not absorb moisture;
does not rot, protects against the negative effects of moisture and steam;
high operational life;
environmentally friendly material;
suitable for any room;
small thickness. This significantly saves space.

We insulate the floor with polyurethane foam

This insulation (hard and soft) can be obtained from isocyanate and polyol components.

Polyurethane foam, cellular in structure (the bubbles are filled with gas and air), provides low thermal conductivity, and is lightweight. For a number of properties, it is considered one of best materials for thermal insulation.

It is necessary to apply insulation to the surface by spraying. You will have to use special equipment. Polyurethane foam adheres perfectly to any material. No vapor barrier required.

PPU floor insulation (video)

Double floors

An effective option for insulation. The subfloor is used as the first layer (rough planks that are attached to the joists). There should be no gaps.

Try to fit all the boards tightly together. The finishing deck is mounted from above. Even a top coat made of decorative materials will do.

Often, instead of a rough base, a variety of flooring is used: embossed or smooth coatings with a high level of thermal insulation.

Said material does not accumulate debris. Dust and debris can be removed from it with a vacuum cleaner or swept away. The covering must be glued to the floor with an adhesive. You need to glue in separate strips. Do not forget to glue the joints as well.

We insulate the fiberboard floor

For floor insulation, standard DV plates are sometimes used. Such slabs can be placed under rough floor boards or under the finishing flooring (parquet, linoleum, carpet, etc.).

The main thing is to proceed carefully and perform the styling in stages. Observe the alignment of the joints, avoid the formation of gaps.

The type of slabs can be different:

PT-100;
M-20.

These options will keep the cold out of your home. Fiberboard for insulation can be used in combination with other heat insulators. For example, with mineral wool.

Underfloor heating system

The above system is especially relevant for floors based on cold cement screed that need good heating.

The system will evenly heat the floor surface. As a result, comfortable thermal conditions throughout the room. The humidity level in the house will drop significantly. For the first floor of an eco-friendly wooden house, a water one is especially relevant. You can read the material about.

lay concrete slabs on the base of the floor or;
lay any kind of insulation. Its thickness should not be less than two centimeters and more than ten;
lay a reinforcing mesh;
attach the piping system to the mesh with plastic clamps;
fill the floor with a cement-sand mixture;
use a backing if necessary;
mount the topcoat.

You can find out about the device and installation technology.

We create an electric floor heating system

It is much easier to install it. As heating, cable structures, safe infrared film elements are used here.

The cable can be stretched, if necessary, on a metal mesh, which is previously required. The film elements can be attached directly to the screed, insulated with some kind of heat insulator.

We invite you to find out by reading the corresponding article on our website.

The variety of heaters can be confusing for buyers. Let's list some of the most common types of heat insulators:

Thermolife. This material is usually used for light loads on thermal insulation layer... Most often, they insulate the walls, roof, interfloor space. Equally well applicable on planes of different inclination.
Ursa. Insulation popular among specialists. Especially common in the finishing of horizontal surfaces. Advantages: good heat and sound insulation properties.
Insulate. Manufactured in China. Available in rolls. High quality at a low price. It will find application in a wide variety of areas.

You can insulate the floor in different ways and independently. The choice is great. Go for it!