Is it possible to cut perennial carnations in June. What to do with cuttings of roses after cutting? Diseases and possible pests of cloves
The first cuttings are removed 2 months after pinching the queen cells, depending on the time of their planting. To do this, use mature shoots with 4-5 internodes. A mature cutting should have 2 well-developed internodes, 2-3 pairs of leaves, a plume and a round stem (Fig. 17, a). 2-3 developed nodes are left on the shoot to ensure the future harvest. In order for the queen cells to produce well, cuttings should not be taken from all shoots at the same time. Collection of cuttings is carried out regularly: in summer - daily, in winter - every two weeks.
In winter, a mature shoot can have 6-7 internodes, so the cutting is removed with three pairs of leaves.
In spring and summer, the shoots ripen faster, and cuttings can be taken with two internodes, a rounded thick stem, a widely recurved leaf blade and a formed plume. The mass of cuttings varies depending on the season and should be at least 4-5 g in winter, and 6-9 g in spring and summer. Sometimes cuttings reach a maximum weight of 12-15 g. Such cuttings are taken only from young plants - from the upper shoots of the second order, as well as during a non-suppressed landing or tearing them out with additional irradiation. The greater the mass of the cutting, the better quality material. Plants obtained from cuttings weighing more than 7 g develop faster and bloom two weeks earlier than from cuttings weighing 3 g (with simultaneous removal).
In spring and early summer, the development of lateral buds is observed on a mature shoot. It has been noticed that cuttings with such shoots already grow when rooted, and later give very productive plants that bloom 2-3 weeks earlier.
It is better to take cuttings in the morning when the plant has
good turgor. Usually they are broken under the knot by hand. On a correctly removed cutting, a part of the stem 0.5-1 cm long with smooth edges (without burrs) remains under the node. It is not recommended to remove the lower leaves, as it has been observed that such cuttings rot faster and take root worse. In addition, the removal of part of the assimilation apparatus delays the rooting process. Cuttings can be pulled out with a "leg", above the knot. In this case, the lower leaves during rooting do not come into contact with the substrate and do not rot.
Before the next collection of cuttings, mother plants of carnations (per day) are watered abundantly. This makes it easier to break out the cuttings and prevent them from wilting. When the plant loses turgor, the cuttings are poorly separated from the shoots, crushed and rooted worse in the future.
Cuttings taken from shoots ready for the formation of an apical flower (induced) are considered overgrown. They are not suitable for rooting. The yield of rooted cuttings in this case will be low even under favorable cutting conditions. It is not possible to increase the percentage of their rooting even by soaking in heteroauxin. After a 4-week stay on the shelves, they look healthy, turgorous, but remain without roots. Such cuttings differ from standard ones in elongated internodes: 4-5 cm instead of
2-3 cm (see Fig. 17, c). The length of cuttings taken from overgrown shoots with three internodes reaches 12-15 cm. In plants obtained from such cuttings, productivity decreases. The number of vegetative buds on the handle does not exceed three, and, as you know, they form the basis of the branching of the bush and ensure the harvest. One of them, when planting a cutting, is buried in the ground, and only two buds remain to form a bush.
Carnation cuttings quickly lose water and, when planted in a wilted state, take root poorly, since they are not able to absorb moisture from the substrate to normal turgor. Therefore, pauses should not be allowed between taking cuttings and planting them for rooting, especially when treated with growth stimulants in a dry way. If, nevertheless, a slight wilting of the cuttings was allowed, they are installed vertically in plastic containers.
In an aqueous solution of a growth stimulator for 4-12 hours and transferred to a cool dark room.
In some cases, the cuttings are stored in special chambers for several months. Since the main demand for planting material occurs in the first half of the year, summer cuttings it is advisable to accumulate and store until winter. Such high-quality cuttings take root well in winter and give a full-fledged planting material at the beginning of the next year. In this case, dry cuttings are immediately packaged in small plastic bags of 25 pieces, put in cardboard boxes (50x40x20 cm, up to 25-30 bags). You can store cuttings without bags in cardboard boxes lined with plastic wrap, upright up to 400 pcs. A label is placed in each box indicating the variety, quantity and date of removal of the cuttings.
First, the boxes are placed on racks in a room with a temperature of 6-8°C for two days, then they are transferred for permanent storage in chambers with a constant temperature not higher than 1-3°C, a humidity of 70-78% and 5-6-fold air exchange per day. Even a short-term increase in temperature by a few degrees is unacceptable, since this forms condensate, which leads to a flash fungal diseases and mass death of cuttings. The optimal period of storage of cuttings in chambers is 3-4 months, only well-ripened cuttings are preserved for such a long time. For more than four months, cuttings are not stored, as this increases the likelihood of fungal diseases. Before rooting, they are brought into a warmer room (8 ° C) for two days.
To prevent diseases, cuttings are disinfected before rooting for 15 minutes in a suspension of one of the fungicides: topsin-M (0.2%), benomyl or its analogues (0.1-0.2%) or previcur
(0.15%) together with benomyl (0.05%).
To stimulate root formation processes, growth regulators are used that cause an influx organic matter in the place of root formation, which leads to thickening and growth of tissues and the formation of roots. Growth regulators are stored in a well-closed glass container, in a dark and dry place (preparations quickly lose activity when stored in the light and in a damp room).
Root formation of cuttings is further enhanced when treated with a mixture of growth stimulant with vitamin C (ascorbic acid) or B1 (thiamine). This contributes to the simultaneous and more rapid growth shoots of rooted cuttings. In industrial practice, the following methods are convenient for processing: immersion of the lower part of the cuttings in an aqueous solution of a growth regulator, dipping in growth paste or powder, watering the substrate with a stimulant.
The cuttings are placed for 4 hours in a 0.05% aqueous solution of heteroauxin (in winter) or a 0.0015% solution of indolylbutyric acid (in summer). Processing is carried out in a darkened room at a temperature not exceeding 20-23°C. Higher temperatures (28-30°C) can lead to poisoning of the cuttings. Green cuttings are immersed in the solution by 2-4 cm (no more than 7z of their length).
The powder mixture of the stimulant is made as follows. In a volumetric flask, an initial concentrated solution is prepared at the rate of 1 mg per 1 ml of alcohol (50-70%). Then, the required amount of solution is taken on a weighed portion of talc (for example, to obtain a 0.5% powder, 10 g of talc and 5 ml of solution, respectively), everything is thoroughly mixed, adding alcohol or water, and then dried at a temperature of 50 ° C.
Before processing, the cuttings are slightly soaked in a 0.01% solution of potassium permanganate, the drops are shaken off and the bases are immersed in powder. Plants are planted carefully so that the powder does not crumble.
A mixture of the following components is also used: 400 g of talc, 60 mg of a-naphthylacetic acid and 20 mg of thiamine.
A positive result is obtained by preplant cooling of the cuttings (3°C) for 7-10 days. In this case, the rooting period is reduced by a week. ,
The cuttings are rooted in greenhouses on well-equipped racks with subsoil heating, providing a soil temperature of 22-23°C.
Various substrates are used for rooting cuttings. The main requirements for them are: loose build (optimal air content is 15-50% of the total volume) and high moisture capacity. These requirements are met by perlite (grade 100 or 75) or a mixture of perlite and high-moor peat (2-1); for meristem
cuttings it is better to use clean sand. The rack is pre-washed with water, disinfected with a 0.5% solution of insecticides and fungicides. The substrate is poured onto the racks with a layer of 5-6 cm, moistened, mixed, slightly compacted and marked according to the scheme 4X4 or 4x5 cm (500-600 cuttings are planted per 1 ml). The cuttings are planted in perlite to a depth of 1.5-2 cm, lightly squeezed and immediately watered with water from a fine sieve. The period of rooting of cuttings is 21-30 days.
The substrate on the racks is heated hot water, which is located in metal pipes laid in the substrate layer. hot water served from a boiler room or from an autonomous electric boiler. To control the temperature, RTA-3 thermostats are used, which control electromagnetic valves with the help of an intermediate relay. The sensor operates at a voltage of 24 W DC. When heating the substrate with water, a recirculation system is used. Electrical heating may be used.
The optimal mode is created if the air temperature is 3-5°C lower than the temperature of the substrate. The temperature of the substrate at the base of the cuttings should be 19-20°C for 10 days after planting, then lowered to 17-18°C to avoid elongation of the internodes during the last stage of rooting. The air temperature in winter is maintained not lower than 13, in summer - not higher than 20°C.
The air humidity in the leaf zone for newly planted cuttings should be 70-80%. To maintain the desired air humidity during the rooting of the cuttings, easily rising film shelters are arranged above the rack, which simplifies plant care. You can also use fogging installations, watering the paths between the racks, rare ventilation. In summer, the installation is turned on up to 2-3 or more times per hour, in winter -
2-3 times a day with an exposure of 8 s.
Fogging installations with deflector-type nozzles are controlled from the “electronic sheet” leaf surface moisture sensor. When the sheet dries, a signal is given to turn on, opens solenoid valve, water enters the system and its fine spray begins through the nozzles. Settling on the leaves of cuttings, water provides a decrease in leaf temperature by 3-5 ° C compared to air temperature. During the operation of fogging installations, the air humidity is set at the level of 70-80%, the humidity of the substrate is 70-75%. This mode is especially necessary in the first 10-12 days.
With the appearance of roots (on the 10-16th day after planting), air humidity is reduced to 60%, watering is reduced to once per hour with the same exposure, then watered once every two hours or less. If necessary, carry out foliar feeding of cuttings with a 0.2% solution of calcium nitrate.
2-3 days before the release of the cuttings, the moisture content of the substrate is reduced, bringing the perlite to such a state that it crumbles after compression, however, drying is not allowed.
The output of high-quality cuttings is ensured by the creation optimal conditions for their rooting. In this case, the light regime is of great importance: darkening is used in the summer period, from September to April - additional irradiation: photoperiod 12 hours, specific power 180 W / ml. On the 10-12th day after planting, when callus is formed, the cuttings are illuminated. It is advisable to use a moving installation with a step of 12 and 8 hours.
Rooted cuttings ready for sampling have three well-formed internodes and a compact root system 2–7 cm long.
11 months reaches more than 660 pcs. Rooting is about 90%.
Rooted cuttings of cloves are packed in bags of 20-25 pieces, which are placed in boxes (boxes) with a label indicating the variety, reproduction, number of plants, sampling date and brigade number. It is allowed to store rooted cuttings packed, but not closed from above, at a temperature of 1-3 ° C, relative humidity of 70% and air change 5-6 times a day. From the day of digging until planting, the cuttings are stored for no more than 2 weeks (GOST 25622-83. Cuttings of remontant carnation and Indian chrysanthemum).
Propagation of carnation grass. After a friendly flowering, this cushion-shaped carnation gives a good self-seeding. And it doesn’t matter if it grows in a flower bed or has a pebble coating around it. Seedlings can appear in seemingly completely unprepared and unsuitable conditions for germination - among stones where there is no soil. And this quality is wonderful, because when propagating a bush by dividing its parts, it is not so easy to take root.
It is convenient to do this with the help of a small transfer scoop, which captures the root system along with the soil. In this case, the roots are practically not damaged. After planting, the plants are well watered.
It is better to transfer self-seeding plants to a permanent place when they are still small, and the root has not grown too much and has gone deep into the place “chosen” by it.
Propagation of carnation grass by cuttings to preserve the variety
For this, vegetative shoots about 10-12 cm long are suitable, although longer ones can be used. From the handle, you need to remove the leaves on the two lower nodes. Then, with a blade, cut a shallow longitudinal groove from the bottom of the handle - up to the second internode. Planted obliquely with a cut down in a light sandy substrate. For complete success, it is important that the planting mixture is previously disinfected, for example, with a solution of potassium permanganate, or calcined. Perlite can also be used for rooting. After planting, moisten the substrate, cover the cuttings with foil and place in partial shade. If you root the cuttings in the house, then it is better to do it on the eastern windowsill, on the street - in the greenhouse, and it is better to hide them in the shade of the plants.
It is very convenient to root in a notched (at a distance of 1/3 from the top) plastic bottle with a capacity of 1.5-2 liters. Three or four cuttings fit there. But do not forget to first fill a third of the container with fine expanded clay or crushed foam, and only then pour the substrate. After planting, the incised top of the bottle is combined with the bottom and sealed with tape. The cork in the first days is opened as necessary for ventilation, after a week and a half you can open it completely. Water carefully so that the water flows down the edge of the bottle.
After about 15-20 days, roots can be seen through the transparent walls. When the plant gets stronger and new leaves appear on them, they are seated in separate containers or planted in the garden, in the school.
Use a loose, moisture-permeable and sufficiently nutritious mixture for planting. Humus, peat and sand are usually mixed (1:3:1). You can also take a ready-made universal substrate with a neutral pH reaction by adding a little sand to it. If there is no mineral fertilizer in the purchased soil, it is advisable to include complex fertilizers in the planting mixture according to the instructions, reducing the dose by half.
For planting the cuttings, separate plastic pots with a diameter of 9 cm are used. Put the watered cuttings together on a warm, illuminated windowsill and cover with spunbond. This creates some kind of greenhouse planting effect. Keep the soil moist.
By the renewed growth of the tops, you determine whether the cuttings have taken root. After that, gradually accustom them to open sun. At the same time, you can start feeding with a solution of mineral fertilizers.
Ready seedlings of cloves - as a gift
Usually seedlings from rooted cuttings or seeds are bought in mid-May. It is good if she is in separate pots, grown up and with buds. We do not recommend taking specimens with yellowed foliage or if there are spots on them and shoots, as this is most likely a disease, and only in best case- a sign of poor care.
At home, after transferring the plant to a large container with nutritious, moisture-intensive and well-permeable soil, water it. To make it easier to adapt, you can spray the crown several times. The place needs a sunny, although varieties with drooping shoots need protection from the midday sun. after the first flowering, they are usually pruned, and at the end of the season they bloom again.
Propagation of clove pinnate by division and cuttings
Usually one or two fans 10-15 cm long are cut off. Do this in the spring, when you cut the shoots on aged bushes to rejuvenate them at least for the current season. Cut off shoots and purposefully for propagation, at the end of May, when it is already possible to distinguish and exclude flower tops. You can also root the fans left from pruning after flowering - some survive!
Propagation of carnations by layering
From time to time, part of the garden carnation bushes falls out, so it is advisable to renew them annually. In a not too thickened flower bed, when there is no threat of damaging neighboring plants, part of the bush is planted. If this is not possible, set aside a few lashes from each bush and sprinkle them with earth. Over time, the layers take root, they can be separated and transplanted to a new place. For this method of propagation of carnations, it is important to use just a few shoots. A sprinkled large bunch, as a rule, becomes moldy and dies. Or in the spring (possible even after flowering), green young shoots are torn off and planted, putting together several pieces. At the same time, the soil is tightly pressed around them and watered. It is better to do this in rainy weather. Planted in partial shade, it is desirable to mulch the soil to retain moisture.
It is very convenient to plant cuttings in pots dug between shrubs, and you need to dig them on light soil with deepening, and on heavy soil - slightly to one side, turning the surface of the soil towards the light. In the first case, irrigation moisture will collect in the hole and last longer, and in the second, on the contrary, it will drain. And then, when planting in a permanent place, you will not need to pay much attention to the plant - just cross and water. And it does not matter that plants in rotated pots will not grow vertically relative to the pot, all this is easy to adjust when planting in a permanent place. Similarly, in pots, layering can also be rooted by placing containers (or even better, small bags of soil) under the shoots. They will have to be looked after before rooting.
Reproduction of Chinese carnation
If climatic conditions do not allow leaving the plant in the garden, it is easy to keep it in the winter in the house. In autumn, select specimens that have not yet bloomed, transplant them into pots and bring them into the house. At first, the plants may droop a little, but with regular abundant watering, they are easily restored. Another option is to separate young rosettes from an adult bush in July-August and root them. Such small plants are easier to keep, and they take up much less space. And by the end of winter, without illumination, and even on the northern windowsill, lush bushes are formed, which can also be used as queen cells.
The cuttings are not cut, but broken off. Planted immediately in separate cups and covered with bags. Air about once a week. Soon, young light green leaves begin to grow, but leave the plants under the film for another one to two weeks.
For rooting, use a mixture of sand and garden soil (1: 2). When cuttings in February-March, young plants bloom in June-July.
Last autumn, having visited a friend, she acquired a poor little cutting of a room carnation. 
Taking a cutting, she noticed that the carnation itself is very beautiful, but the bush is not compact, sprawling and, as it were, disheveled. Even then I realized that most likely the landing was not done correctly, but a friend began to assure that she had a carnation for several years and always looks like that, supposedly she is ampelous, which surprised me very much.
I made several from one cutting. 
Having cut off the lower leaves, I planted the cuttings in the soil mixture. I made a combined soil. I put drainage at the bottom of the pot by about 1-2 cm. I have drainage from fine gravel and coarse sand. Then she poured a soil mixture prepared from sifted soddy soil, humus and peat taken in equal proportions. Literature generally recommends a layer of sand for grafting, but I don't see the point in that. When the soil is on top, I can visually determine the moisture content of the earth under the cuttings, and when there is sand, it is not clear to me how wet the earth is. Therefore, when rooting something, I never pour sand.
For propagation of carnations, it is recommended to take the lower axillary shoots for cuttings, but since I got anything, there was no choice, so I made cuttings out of this.
Considering that the best time for cuttings is from February to April and from September to October, and I already had November, I slightly doubted the need for such cuttings, but I so wanted to have such a carnation that I took a chance.
At the cuttings, she cut off the lower leaves, did not cut off an inch. I first put the cuttings in the water because the leaves and stem seemed to me slightly grafted. When the cuttings fully gained turgor, after about 20-30 minutes I started planting. On each cutting I had 3-4 internodes. When planting 2 internodes, I deepened, and 2 remained on top.
I don't have a steam generator, of course. Therefore, having planted the cuttings in a pot, I put it in a bag, and tied the bag on top. A primitive mini greenhouse was formed. Since by that time the cold had already begun, and the warm room I had a room with northern windows, so I put my greenhouse on the northern window.
During the rooting time, which lasted about a month, I literally opened the bag once and watered the soil. Watering was carried out with rain warm, settled water, so much so that the water collected in the pan. I didn’t remove the water from the pan, so it was in the greenhouse, while creating additional humidity.
When the tops of the cuttings started to grow, according to all the rules of agricultural technology, they had to be pinned. I didn't. The point of this was that I needed cuttings. 
Therefore, I grew the plant until it was possible, by pinching it, to plant the pinch itself as a cutting. So I did with all the cuttings.
After cutting the tops, the stalk began to let side shoots, which I was also in no hurry to pinch, but waited for the moment when the pinch went to the stalk.
Considering that it was winter, and the north window was not illuminated at all, I had to transfer my “landings" to a colder, but brighter room, and here I noticed that 16-18ᵒС is quite enough for cuttings, but with an increase in the intensity of illumination of the cuttings began to look healthier.
I want to note the fact that I spent cuttings all winter and early spring, and every single cutting I had was alive. At the same time, I did not use any additional rooters.
In the spring, when the sun on the southern window began to bake more intensely, I slightly moved the pots so that direct sunlight did not reach the plant itself.
I planted the plants in different pots in the same substrate as I carried out cuttings. At the same time, each next cut cutting was planted next to mother plant and did not even cover with a bag, and they also rooted perfectly. But she tried to carry out the process of transplantation very carefully, without damaging the young roots.
Replanting bushes decided to conduct an experiment. I planted it in one pot at the same level at which the clove grew, and deepened it in another. As a result, I became the owner of unique knowledge. The carnation needs to be deepened. It is the deep planting that makes the bush compact. Its shoots do not fall, do not fall apart and hold on their own.
But for a bush with a very superficial landing, I had to come up with various tricks so that its branches would not fall. 
To do this, I made small brackets. You can make them with ordinary wire.
Pressing the twig to the ground and sticking the bracket in, the stalk holds firmly enough and does not fall under the weight of the flower head.
It took me 9 months from the moment of cutting to the moment of flowering. Of course, if I didn’t grow cuttings, but pinched them as it should be above the third internode, my carnations would have bloomed much earlier. But I wanted to have a lot of cuttings, and see if cutting time affects the process itself. In the end, I achieved what I wanted.
Now, when the carnation fades, I carefully cut the flower. 
Where it needs to be done is very clear. I make a cut above the place from where the shoot grows again.
I want to note that it is best to plant several bushes in one pot, then they will bloom and create a beautiful bouquet, and one bush looks lonely.
To watering indoor cloves are not indifferent. Leaving the earthy ball without moisture for several days, the leaves begin to lose turgor, and the flower shoots lean. But with irrigation, the turgor is restored, and the shoots rise. I spend watering in winter with melted snow water, and in spring, autumn and summer with rain. Water stands in room conditions.
Since I have both mother liquors and cuttings for rooting in one pot, I did not carry out top dressing. Judging by the state of my bushes, they do not need them yet. 
The photo shows everything that I was able to draw and grow over the winter. Now I will enjoy the beauty and incomparable aroma.
Reproduction of carnations by cuttings from a bouquet
Turkish cloves are grown as a biennial. In the first year, a rosette of leaves is formed, in the second year, the Turkish carnation blooms profusely for more than a month. Fragrant flowers of various colors are collected in corymbs.
Growing Turkish Cloves
You can grow these flowers through seedlings or direct sowing in the ground. To avoid plant diseases, it is advisable to shed the soil before sowing with a hot dark pink solution of potassium permanganate. Seeds for seedlings are sown in March - early April, in open ground- in May or June according to the scheme 5 × 5 cm. Good results are obtained by mulching crops with a mixture of sand and wood ash in equal parts.
Seedlings dive, and at the end of summer, young plants can be planted in prepared areas at a distance of 20-30 cm from each other. Thus, in the first year a bush is formed, which next year reaches a height of 40-50 cm and from mid-June pleases with large inflorescences. The resulting leaves in the first year are recommended to cover for the winter with spruce branches.
Vegetative methods of propagation of Turkish cloves
There is also a vegetative method of reproduction. If you liked any variety, then in late July - early August, carnations can be propagated by layering. To do this, the shoots of the plant are bent to the ground, fixed with studs and sprinkled with soil. The upper end of the stem is tied to a peg so that it is constantly in an upright position. After two or three weeks, roots form in the nodes, and after a while, leaves and shoots. In autumn, rooted shoots are cut off from mother plant and set aside.
Turkish cloves are also propagated by cuttings cut from stems that have not formed inflorescences. Good bushes 5-10 cm high grow from last year's self-sowing, which can be planted out in the fall. These flowers grow well both in the sun and in partial shade. Almost any soil suits them, but plants develop best on light loams with a slightly acidic and neutral soil reaction. Carnations are planted in separate groups, in the form of rabatok, curtains next to plants that bloom later.
Turkish carnation, pest control
Of the pests, aphids and spider mites are most often found on these flowers. To combat these insects, a freshly prepared infusion is effective. potato tops(for 10 liters of water, take 1.2 kg of green or 0.6-0.8 kg of dry tops with leaves, insist for 1.5 days, then add 1 tablespoon of liquid soap). Carnation is best sprayed in the morning or evening.
If your pets are annoyed by mice, put poison baits in their passages near perennial and biennial plantings. And in winter, to combat rodents, be sure to trample down, compact the snow near the trunks of trees and shrubs (especially during thaws).
Maria Dolzhenko, Vereya
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Shabo carnation cuttings, planting and care
All summer from the end of June until late autumn, until low temperatures are established, Shabo's carnation lasts. Grown for flower decoration of flower beds, rabatok, mixborders, landscaping balconies and loggias, as well as for pot culture, gives a very good cut.
Carnation Shabo is easy to care for, and after cutting, the flowers remain in water for up to 1-2 weeks. A valuable type of carnation can be propagated by cuttings from last year's bushes.
In autumn, the best Shabo carnation bushes are dug up with a clod of earth and transplanted into pots. Then flowering will continue until mid-November or longer. Keep them until spring cool place with good lighting. The shoots are shortened and all winter is limited in "food and drink."
In early spring, they begin to feed and water, which stimulates the active growth of cuttings. In order to get a flowering carnation in July, already in February - early March, axillary shoots 5-7 cm long are cut. It is better to take new shoots from the middle part of last year's stem. Some flower growers consider it necessary to "grab" one last year's sheet.
On the handle, an oblique cut is made in the internodes and the handle is deepened into wet sand. The percentage of rooted cuttings increases if you use a drug that stimulates the formation of roots.
From above, the landing container is covered with a plastic bag or a glass jar. The first week, carnation cuttings are often sprayed and shaded. Roots are formed already on the 15-18th day.
According to the observation of amateur flower growers, the Shabo carnation, grown from cuttings, is not as strong as from seeds, the quality of the cut is quite normal. This cutting method is often practiced in order to preserve the variety you like, especially the terry one.
Planting carnation shabot in open ground.
In general, the Shabo carnation is cold-resistant and not afraid of frost, the first seedlings are planted in open ground - from the beginning of May (at the end of April). If the weather does not allow, the landing can be postponed to a later date - in the second half of May. Rooted cuttings are planted in May-June.
A landing site is chosen bright, protected from the north and northeast from the icy wind. The soil is fertile, neutral. The distance between young plants (cuttings) is 20 cm. If the shabo carnation is used for cutting, the distance between plants should be increased to 30-40 cm.
You can adhere to the following seedling planting scheme: 25 x 25 cm or 30 x 20 cm - 14-16 plants per 1 sq. m, when disembarking without destroying a clod of earth with roots. It is not necessary to bury the plants, since even with a slight burying, the carnation takes root noticeably worse.
Strong gusts of wind easily break fragile stems, therefore, it is worth choosing a place for it more carefully. If necessary, carnation bushes are tied to pegs. In case of frosts and strong gusts of wind, it is advisable to cover the plantings with lutrasil.
What is carnation Shabo care?
How many cultivated plants, plantings where colorful carnation flowers grow should be freed from weeds, watered, and fertilized during growth and flowering.
Carnations are fed in a standard way ... First, emphasis is placed on nitrogen-containing fertilizers, and during the budding period and at the beginning of flowering, more potassium is required. If the Shabo carnation has a lighter color at the base of the leaves, then this is a signal that it is necessary to strengthen the fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers.
For good flowering Shabo cloves are fed in small "portions", but often, every 2 weeks. This plant is afraid of fresh organic matter.
Carnation Shabo - flowering and cutting.
If Shabo carnation flowers are grown for cutting, then all stepchildren (up to the sixth node) and side buds must be removed. In this case, you can get a fairly large flower - up to 7 cm in diameter. The peduncle is cut in the morning or evening under the sixth node.
If the Shabo carnation is grown for sale or for some official event, then the flowers are cut in the half-opened bud phase. Cut flowers tolerate transportation well and remain in water for 5-10 days.
Carnation Shabo tolerates slight autumn frosts. However, after them, some of the leaves may turn white, this does not affect the development of plants. In some snowy mild winters, the Shabo carnation overwinters even in open ground. But this option is middle lane can only be regarded as a successful experiment.
How to root carnations from a bouquet
Carnations can be sown in open ground either in early spring or before winter. V winter time rooted cuttings are stored in cool greenhouse conditions at a temperature of 0. and in the spring they are transplanted into the ground.
It is extremely comfortable to plant cuttings in pots dug between shrubs, while it is necessary to dig them on light soil with deepening, and on heavy soil - slightly to one side, turning the surface of the earth towards the light. You can make them with ordinary wire. In a not very thickened flower bed, when there is no danger of destroying adjacent plants, part of the bush is planted.
The place needs to be sunny, although varieties with drooping shoots need protection from the midday sun. From above, the landing container is covered with a plastic bag or a glass jar. For such a method of propagation of carnations, it is important to specifically use only a few shoots. At the same time, each subsequent cut cutting was planted next to the mother plant and was not even covered with a bag, and they also rooted perfectly.
How to plant a carnation. Leaving the land lump without moisture for several days, the leaves begin to lose turgor, and the flower shoots lean. And it does not matter that the plants in the rotated pots will not grow vertically relative to the pot, all this is easy to adjust when planting in the same place. Similarly, in pots, layering can also be rooted by placing containers, and even better, small bags of soil under the shoots.
At the same time, they are tightly pressed around their soil and watered. Cut off the shoots and deliberately for propagation, at the end of May, when it is already possible to distinguish the flower tops. In a not very thickened flower bed, when there is no danger of destroying adjacent plants, part of the bush is planted.
From time to time, part of the bushes of garden carnations falls out, so it is better to renew them once a year. It is better to take the newest shoots from the middle part of last year's stem.
In the fall, select specimens that have not yet bloomed, transplant them into pots and bring them into the house. They will have to be looked after before rooting. But with irrigation, the turgor is restored, and the shoots rise. If this is real then how to root it. And later, when landing on a permanent place, it will not be necessary to pay much attention to the plant - just cross and water.
For watering indoor cloves are not phlegmatic. If the weather does not allow, the landing can be postponed to the latest date - in the 2nd half of May. Do this in the spring, when you cut the shoots on aged bushes to rejuvenate them at least for the current season. Replanting the bushes, I decided to conduct an experiment. Traditionally, one or two fans are cut off, cm long. For the first week, carnation cuttings are often sprayed and shaded.
Specifically, a deep landing makes the bush small-sized. Where it needs to be done is extremely well visible. Another option is to separate young rosettes from an adult bush in July-August and root them. I had one flower in a bouquet. Carnation, but such a beautiful one, and I wanted to root. Rooting takes place in two to three weeks with highest humidity and temperature +15 °C.
Over time, the layers take root, they can be separated and transplanted to a new place. It is better to do this in rainy weather. If climatic conditions do not allow leaving the plant in the garden, it is easy to keep it in the house during the winter. It took me 9 months from the moment of cutting to the moment of flowering. I spend watering in winter with melted snow water, and in spring, in autumn and in summer with rain. Throwing out extremely small shoots, I selected those suitable for rooting about 5 cm long and slightly larger by removing the lower leaves from their row. Chinese carnations are traditionally pruned after the first flowering, and at the end of the season they bloom again.
At the same time, I did not use any additional rooters. In the end, I got what I wanted.
Roots form within a day. or when the heads have faded. Naturally, if I did not grow cuttings, but pinched them as it should be above the third internode, my carnations would have bloomed much earlier. On the handle, an oblique cut is made in the internodes and the handle is deepened into wet sand. Established cuttings are planted in May-June. But the very process of transplantation tried to be carried out extremely carefully, without damaging the young roots. But I wanted to have a lot of cuttings, and see if the cutting time affects the process itself.
Water stands in room conditions. But for a bush with an extremely superficial landing, I had to invent various tricks so that its branches would not fall. CLOVE disembarkation rearing care reproduction. Since I have both queen cells and cuttings for rooting in one pot, I did not carry out top dressing.
In the first case, irrigation moisture will collect in the hole and remain longer, and in the second, on the contrary, it will drain. Pressing the twig to the ground and sticking the bracket in, the stalk holds quite firmly and does not fall under the weight of the flower head. Plant in partial shade, mulch the soil to conserve water.
In general, the Shabo carnation is cold-resistant and is not afraid of frost; the first seedlings are planted in open ground - from the beginning of May to the end of April. A sprinkled large bunch, as a rule, becomes moldy and dies. I would like to note that it is best to plant several bushes in one pot, then they will bloom and create a beautiful bouquet, and one bush looks lonely. The soil is fertile, neutral.
Can you grow cloves in a pot at home?
At first, the plants may wilt a little, but with constant abundant watering they simply recover. Its shoots do not fall, do not fall apart, and hold on without the help of others. To do this, I made small brackets. In the first case, irrigation moisture will collect in the hole and remain longer, and in the second, on the contrary, it will drain. According to the observation of amateur flower growers, the Shabo carnation, grown from cuttings, is not as powerful as from seeds, the cut quality is completely normal.
On the this moment When the carnation fades, carefully cut off the flower. I planted the plants in different pots in the same substrate as I carried out cuttings. Amazingly, they overwintered unsurpassed and turned out to be very fresh and resilient - as if they had been buried not a few months ago, but quite recently ... Cutting and planting carnation cuttings Rejoiced at the good preservation of carnation shoots that overwintered in the ground, I set to work. The percentage of rooted cuttings increases if a product that stimulates root formation is used.
You can also root the fans left over from pruning after flowering - some survive! Or, in the spring, it is possible, and after flowering, greenish young shoots are torn off and planted, putting together several pieces. If Shabo carnation flowers are grown for cutting, then all stepchildren up to the sixth node and side buds will certainly be removed. If this is not realistic, set aside a few lashes from each bush and sprinkle them with earth. Sowing cloves - Duration: Tatyana has 22 views.
I make a cut above the place where the shoot grows again. This method cuttings are often practiced in order to preserve the variety you like, especially terry. The distance between the cuttings of young plants is 20 cm. If the shabo carnation is used for cutting, the distance between the plants should be increased to cm. I planted it in one pot at the same level at which the clove grew, and deepened it in another. In the spring, when the sun on the southern window began to fry most intensively, I slightly moved the pots so that direct sunlight did not reach the plant itself.
Leaving the land lump without moisture for several days, the leaves begin to lose turgor, and the flower shoots lean. As a result, I became the owner of unique knowledge. How to root roses from a bouquet.
The landing site is chosen bright, protected from the north and northeast from the icy wind.
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How to grow carnations at home
Watering plants should be accurate, not plentiful. For greater stability, they can be sprinkled with soil. This is especially true when the seedlings are stretched. It is necessary to plant seedlings after 2-3 true leaves appear. In the future, you need to take care of hardening the seedlings. It is usually planted in open ground in late May - early June. The distance between plants is about 20 cm. This is what concerns planting carnation seeds .
Now let's talk about the reproduction of this flower. Reproduction of carnations is possible by cuttings, layering, vegetatively. At the same time, not for all types of carnations, the option of dividing the bush will be suitable. At the carnation root system consists of a main root, from which many lateral ones grow. There are cases that rooting of lateral shoots occurs. The result is a new plant. When it comes to hybrid and varietal varieties carnations, then in this case they resort to special propagation using cuttings. Since we are talking about cuttings, it would be worth mentioning the timing. The best period for cuttings is the end of May - the beginning of June.
The process itself propagating carnation cuttings is the following: you need to cut directly under the node. The cutting should be about 10 cm long and contain 3-4 knots. The lower leaves are removed. Next, you need to make an incision to a third of the thickness of the stem. You can use a sharp knife for this. The incision is made along the length of the lower internode. After the operations, the cuttings are placed in a prepared moistened substrate and then in a cool greenhouse. Root formation occurs within 2-3 weeks.
As for propagation by layering, this method is used for carnations that have long vegetative shoots. These carnations include bearded and Turkish. The method also involves cutting the shoot and fixing it to the soil. After that, it should be covered with sand and periodically watered. The main thing is to ensure that the incised section of the stem is constantly in moist soil. When the roots are formed, the growth of shoots from the node located above begins. After that, you can begin to separate the new plant and plant it.
At growing cloves at home care consists in the use of dressings throughout the summer, which are used as complex fertilizers. The frequency of top dressing is once every 2-3 weeks. The only thing that should not be used is fresh manure. As mentioned above, carnations need good lighting. If the plant feels a lack of light, then the foliage becomes small, flowering is scarce. There are varieties garden carnation, which are very sensitive to positive temperatures in winter. This applies especially to those plants that have reached the flowering stage. This is said to the fact that since autumn, garden carnations need to be covered with spruce branches. It should be removed only after regular frosts have passed.
clove diseases
Simple ways to propagate roses from cuttings
Roses are a noble flower grown on the site.
Propagation of roses by cuttings is a simple way to "clone" plants that satisfy flower growers with either decorative qualities, or resistance to weather tests of the local climate, or both of these parameters at once.
In order for the cuttings to take root and please with beautiful buds in the future, you need to know and follow a few simple recommendations regarding the choice planting material and methods of its preparation for planting in the ground, care.
Read here the features of planting clematis in the spring.
What roses can become donors for cutting cuttings?
Everything. Even from a gift bouquet. Provided, that the flowers are domestic, not Dutch. fed with preservatives to the state "able to hold out in all its glory for a record number of days, but have forever lost the ability to" reincarnate ".
Although, if the gardener has a very “light” hand, then why not try to grow a rose from a foreign guest, not particularly hoping for a positive result of the venture?
To what extent is a single stem suitable for cuttings? Break off one of the spikes located on it.
Did the thorn come off easily? So, the rosette can be cut into cuttings.
A stem that has not had time to stiffen has more chances to take root. When pre-marking on a branch, strive to have cuttings with areas with greenish, juicy bark, and not cracked light brown.
Some flower growers assure that the survival rate among June cuttings is higher than that of those cut and planted in the ground later.
If the climate in your area is characterized by moderate temperatures throughout warm season, passing rains in time, then yes, the procedure is best done at the beginning of summer.
Other lovers of experimenting with the propagation of flowers by cuttings should “look back” at the wind rose and the seasonal temperature characteristics of a particular climatic zone.
Owners of greenhouses or voluminous window sills are engaged in cuttings of roses at any time of the year.
It is necessary to take into account the peculiarities of the climate when deciding: leave rooted "seedlings" on the ground in winter, or move them under the roof, transplanting them into flowerpots. In severe frosts below 20 degrees, even half-year-old sheltered "seedlings" may not survive the cold.
How to cut a rose stem from the ground?
Using donors from the ground, stems with buds not yet fully formed are selected. After carefully examining the "patient", immediately, if available, the area with a skin resembling the surface of a tree is rejected.
The long stem is divided into several pieces up to 7-8 cm long, making sure that at least two or three buds and a pair of leaves are present on the segment.
If the donor branch is short, then only one seedling is formed from it.
Separating the body of the cutting from the stem, the first cut is made strictly perpendicular to the stem, the second - the bottom of the "baby" - at an angle of 45 degrees, wielding the most sharpened knife.
The lower cut is performed immediately under the kidney, which serves as an accumulator. nutrients, which will help the cutting to acquire roots faster.
When to cut roses from a bouquet?
Especially desperate flower growers, who do not have the strength to raise their hands on the presented beauty immediately, cut the bouquets after the petals begin to fall.
Until this moment, the flowers are daily immersed overnight in a container with clean water making sure that the bottom edges of the buds do not come into contact with the liquid.
However, if you really want to get the same rose in your collection as in the bouquet, then it’s better not to risk it, and disassemble a couple of copies from it right away.
What to do with cuttings of roses after cutting?
Chopped stems are cleaned of all buds, and at the same time of almost all leaves, leaving only a couple of branches to be able to carry out photosynthesis processes.
So that they cannot intensively give off moisture, they are “milled”, cutting off half of the leaves from each.
The prepared cuttings are placed for a day in an aqueous solution of some kind of fertilizer that stimulates root formation (for example, heteroauxin, root). The next day, "seedlings" are placed for rooting in:
How to properly root cuttings of roses in the ground?
Having chosen a secluded place where on a summer afternoon the flowers will not feel like in a frying pan, they dig several trench-ridges 15 cm deep.
Three-quarters of them are filled with a nutrient mixture of turf, leafy soil and sand - one part each.
Chernozem, humus or seasoned grassroots peat - two parts. The top backfill two centimeters thick should be made of sand, previously sifted and washed.
Above each ridge or immediately above all, a removable wooden or metal carcass- to stretch the film, which will provide the "seedlings" with greenhouse conditions.
If there are few cuttings, they will be planted separately, then the role of a greenhouse for each can be performed by a cropped plastic bottle or glass jar.
The cuttings are planted in ready-made ridges with a slope to one side so that the lower edge of the stem does not come into contact with the nutrient component of the trench.
Roots develop better in a sandy environment that allows moisture to pass through well. This will prevent putrefactive processes from developing around the resulting root system.
After landing in the ground, the cuttings are isolated from the world, stretched over the frame with a film. To keep the temperature inside the greenhouse at a given level - within 25 degrees, the structure is shaded when it is too hot outside. Three times a day, a light spraying of the ridge with clean water is carried out, lifting the cover.
This allows you to maintain a favorable humidity for "seedlings". With excessive moisture, the greenhouse is ventilated by briefly lifting one of the edges of the film.
Three weeks later, the cuttings begin to sprout roots. The buds of "seedlings" also begin to activate, which is determined by the growth of shoots.
After that, the humidity inside the greenhouses should be gradually reduced due to longer ventilation in the morning.
The active growth of shoots and the first leaves will tell you that the plants no longer need greenhouse conditions. However, it is still necessary to shade the roses from the burning midday sun.
How are cuttings rooted in potato tubers?
Potato queens provide "seedlings" of roses not only with moisture, but also with starch, which is very useful for cuttings that do not yet have their own root system or sufficient leaf cover involved in photosynthesis processes.
Cuttings are harvested in the usual way. Sorted, without rotting spots and other sores, peeled from dirt and eyes, potatoes are pierced with a handle, deepening the lower edge of the “seedling” by two centimeters.
"Planting" all the available "seedlings" in the uterus, the latter are placed in trench-ridges filled with clean sand. The upper barrel of tubers should peek out a little from the ground.
The ridge is covered entirely with a frame with a film, or each of the "seedlings" is covered with a plastic / glass jar.
Watering is carried out as the earth dries up. Once a week, watering water is enriched with sugar by adding a couple of teaspoons of granulated sugar to a glass of liquid.
For 14 days, "seedlings" are regularly ventilated. After another 14 days, the shelter is removed - under favorable weather conditions.
How are cuttings rooted in flowerpots?
Rose cuttings are planted in flowerpots using the same method as in the ground.
The only difference is that the bottom layer of soil in the pot should consist of pebbles, expanded clay - for drainage.
Pour over it fertile soil from cultivated garden soil. Last layer- sandy.
The placement of the cutting in the flowerpot is carried out in the same way as in the bed soil.
How is the root system of "seedlings" of roses grown in water?
The cuttings, cleared of leaves, are placed in a jar of clean water and the container is removed in a warm room with diffused light.
The liquid is changed every two days, simultaneously examining the cuttings for the appearance of mold (a cutting that has begun to deteriorate should be disposed of immediately).
After 21-23 days, a whitish cloud begins to form around the lower edge of the stems - callus. It should not be cleared of "seedlings", as this is a harbinger of the development of the root system.
The real roots that have appeared will tell you that it is time to plant future roses in the ground, where they should first be placed under a film or jars.
Which begins with the advent of heat in the spring and before the first frost in the fall. Graceful and strict, simple, single-color and multi-color flowers are comfortably located in flowerbeds and alpine slides. Each plant needs a special approach. When creating compositions, certain flowers are selected. Among them, a large detachment of carnations deserves attention, universal in application and perfectly suitable for use in landscape design.
A beauty from the Mediterranean
Carnation garden perennial - herbaceous plant, characterized by a unique aroma and flowering. Many species make up this order. Among them, one can distinguish pinnate carnation, grass, sandy, lush grayish-blue, etc. The knotty stem of these representatives of the flora has a light gray or blue color. Elongated paired leaves are distributed along the entire length of the stem, reaching a height of forty to sixty centimeters. They form bushes with an underdeveloped root system, the depth of which reaches from ten to twenty centimeters.
Flowers deserve special mention. Depending on the variety, they can be different in shape and color, and also consist of a single or several rows of petals that have dissected or smooth oval edges. The corolla of the carnation is five-petalled. Small or large inflorescences also differ in the length of the peduncle. Looks very impressive double flower. Carnation garden has a multi-colored bright color, and the inflorescences can be single-color or multi-color. Pastel delicate colors predominate, while the color spectrum is quite large. Most often it is bright red, pink and white tones. However, purple and yellow are no exception. Multi-color inflorescences are especially spectacular.
In autumn, the plants form seed pods filled with seeds. Carnation garden has many various kinds and varieties with distinctive characteristics. Each of them has its own amazing features.
Carnation pinnate (terry)
If it is necessary to create a green carpet in a flower arrangement, the best plant can not found. An amazing perennial has the ability to grow, while forming bushes that fill like carpeted necessary flower garden space. This is the feathery garden carnation. On stems reaching a height of thirty to forty centimeters, numerous bright inflorescences with a delicate aroma are piled up.
Flowering occurs in May-July, September. Cirrus carnation flowers are most often pink, red, crimson, or white. especially beautiful terry varieties"Alba", "Desdemona", "Romance" and "Pomegranate". You should also pay attention to remontant and dwarf forms. These plants are quite unpretentious, have good winter-hardy qualities.
Ground cover flower forms
Carnation garden grass - beautiful flowering perennial. Great for alpine slides, low curb compositions. Low-growing stems of flowers reach from ten to thirty centimeters. The small leaves are dark green in color. Grass looks very impressive during flowering. This is a fantastic natural carpet of bright colors, reaching a diameter of 1.5-2 cm. They are single-colored or multi-colored with bright red, pink or white color. grass unpretentious plant. A distinctive characteristic of this species is good drought resistance and winter hardiness. The plant does not require shelter for the winter. For flower beds and flower beds, sandy poor soils are taken away. Plants do not tolerate waterlogging at all. The first buds appear in early June. Flowering will delight until the onset of autumn. In autumn, gray-brown boxes filled with small black seeds ripen, which are used for sowing in open ground or for growing seedlings in the next season. The life expectancy of a perennial is four to six years.
Carnation garden grass will always be a decoration of the garden. Each variety is good in its own way. Surprisingly decorative grass "Confetti-Mix". Small ground cover plants bloom in June. Carved flower petals have a two-tone color. The bright white edges of the flower have a violet-purple center.
Carnation sandy
This is a miniature rather unpretentious plant. Very beautiful flowers, having a pinnate-fringed shape. The stems reach a length of up to thirty centimeters. Bushes easily tolerate transplantation. Pleases with flowering in July-August.
Arrangement of flowers in the garden
When planting a garden carnation, regardless of the variety, several features must be taken into account. A heat-loving plant will require good solar lighting. Plots for growing these flowers are allotted in open areas of the garden. Adequate lighting is a must long flowering. Garden carnation is not capricious and easy to care for, not demanding on soil fertility.
Areas with light, moisture-permeable soil with low acidity are perfect. Most of the varieties have good drought-resistant and frost-resistant qualities. In winter, plants do not require shelter. Planting a garden carnation is done by pre-grown seedlings or by sowing seeds that are collected after flowering in the autumn. In early spring plots allotted for sowing seeds are preliminarily prepared. The soil is treated with a garden rake. Sowing areas are marked with sand and seeds are sown. Sowing should not be sparse.
Flower garden care
An unpretentious perennial garden carnation, the care of which is quite simple. The luxurious appearance, combined with the availability of cultivation, makes plants of this type popular with gardeners, florists and specialists in landscape design. In the spring, they plan the placement of plants and start sowing seeds or planting pre-grown seedlings. Last year's plantings are checked, dried plant stems are removed.
Care consists in loosening the soil and regular watering, during which water should not fall on the leaves, stems and flowers of the plant. It must be moderate. Overmoistening of the soil is unacceptable. Incorrect moisture regime of flowers can cause the development of diseases and damage to plants.
An important agrotechnical measure is top dressing, which will allow you to achieve the most favorable conditions under which the plants will develop well and delight with long-term high-quality flowering. Cultivation of garden carnation provides for several terms of fertilization. The first top dressings fall on spring period. This is the time of bud formation. Flowers will be bright and numerous when special complex fertilizers are applied for flowering plants. During the period of formation of inflorescences and blooming of flowers, it is necessary to make the following fertilization. It should be noted that fresh manure and chlorine-containing potash fertilizers cannot be used as flower dressings. Their use is not allowed. Flowering stops in autumn. Flowerbeds and flower beds are inspected. Shorten the stems of plants and cut off dried inflorescences and seed pods. The garden carnation hibernates without special shelter. Care and warming for the winter is not required.
Diseases and pests
Like any culture, garden carnation requires preventive measures to ensure normal growth. The main pests include: nematodes, thrips, Medvedka. The fight against them is to use chemicals. When spraying plants, strictly follow the instructions indicated on the preparations.
Viral diseases such as fusarium, alternariosis, rust and mottling are dangerous for flowers of this species. The affected plant loses its attractiveness and even dies. The manifestations of these diseases are similar. Brown spots or a bluish bloom appear on the leaves and stems. In addition to the listed diseases, the garden carnation is affected by the fungus. Care with proper moistening and regular loosening of the soil, weed removal, nitrogen restriction and application aqueous solution basic mineral fertilizers will help reduce the chance of being hit by diseases. High level agrotechnical measures in combination with regular top dressing significantly reduces the level of infection with infectious diseases.
reproduction
Planning and creation flower arrangements provides a certain amount of planting material. First, you should plan the areas where the perennial garden carnation will be planted. Propagation involves sowing seeds directly into open ground or growing the required amount of planting material in closed ground conditions, as well as a vegetative method for obtaining seedlings.
Getting planting material
Growing garden carnations in seedlings is considered more reliable and often used, allowing you to get enough quality planting material of the selected variety in the right amount. In closed ground conditions, use plastic containers. Also, seeds are sown in greenhouses or spring greenhouses. To determine the required number of seedlings, flower beds are planned where perennial garden carnations will be planted. Reproduction involves obtaining seedlings of a certain variety of flowers by sowing pre-prepared seeds. Sowing begins at the end of January. Carnation seeds for preventive purposes are subjected to pre-sowing treatment. They are soaked in a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The boxes are filled with a light soil mixture, which includes:
- one part of peat;
- three parts of sand;
- two parts of sod land;
- two parts compost.
The soil before sowing is calcined or shed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. The seed is laid out in grooves so that future shoots are not thickened. After that, the soil is leveled and slightly compacted and moistened. Containers are placed in places with an air temperature of 22 degrees Celsius. Under favorable conditions, the first shoots appear a week after the garden carnation was sown. Seedling care requires compliance with light and temperature regime. Light mode can be provided by using fluorescent lamps. In case of violation, the plants will be weak, which will affect the quality of planting material.
In the phase of two true leaves, the plants are seated in separate containers or in containers, making plantings rather sparse. Further care for seedlings is moderate watering. At the same time waterlogging of the soil is not allowed. Fertilizing with complex mineral fertilizers for flowering plants is also necessary. Seedlings will be ready for planting in open ground in a permanent place in late May or early June.
Vegetative method of obtaining planting material
In addition to the seedling method, propagation of garden carnations is possible by cuttings and layering. Planting material for rooting is harvested in late May or early June. Stem perennial plant cut above the node and remove all lower leaves. The cuttings are placed in the substrate and moistened. The root system will appear in two to three weeks.
Plant species with long stems are propagated by layering. They make small incisions in the lower part of the internodes. Prepared stems are fixed with staples at ground level. Layers are sprinkled with earth and moistened. A root system is formed at the incision site. After their formation, the layers are separated from the main plant and used as planting material in a new place. All varieties of grass are easily propagated by dividing the bush.
