How to form chrysanthemums in the garden. Fertilizers for chrysanthemum

Luxurious inflorescences on autumn flower beds attract the eye and amaze with a variety of shades. Indoor chrysanthemum in a pot differs from relatives in the open ground by the compact shape of a spherical bush 20–40 cm high. Breeders have bred several hybrids and varieties adapted to lack of lighting and other indoor conditions.

"Home" chrysanthemums are not demanding for care, they grow well, bloom profusely and reproduce easily. In everyday life, it is customary to say "flowers", although the Asteraceae family has an inflorescence-basket. When buying, you should pay attention to the fact that there is a healthy chrysanthemum in a pot, care at home will then be much easier. Good developed plant, intended for keeping indoors, will continue to bloom on the windowsill. Under favorable conditions, the buds can bloom almost without interruption for 2 years.

It should be noted that after self-propagation by cuttings or root offspring, new plants do not turn out to be as compact and dense as those purchased in a store.

Outdoor chrysanthemums are sold in plastic containers. These flowers are planted in open ground, or left in containers, used for container gardening, patio decoration, entrance to the house. After flowering, the stems are cut, containers with roots are sent to the basement or loggia for the winter. If street chrysanthemum keep indoors, her leaves will turn yellow and dry. These plants need Fresh air and a certain lighting regime - the night is longer than the day.

Varieties of chrysanthemums for growing in pots

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, geneticists and agrochemists, plants have been bred that can bloom profusely and for a long time in a room. In total, about 40 hybrid varieties of chrysanthemums have been created for indoor cultivation. Inflorescences may be smaller or the same size as in outdoor plants. Often varieties are grouped by origin from one natural species.

Chrysanthemum Indian

In nature, this is relatively low herbaceous plant. The leaves are toothed, green-gray. The inflorescence is a basket resembling a chamomile with yellow petals and the same core. It is the ancestor of small-flowered hybrids for growing on the windowsill and balcony.

The Indian chrysanthemum was crossed with species having white and pink inflorescences. Breeders with the help of chemicals that affect growth, have received compact forms with a height of 20-25 cm. Today there are a large number of different forms and varieties that do well in the room, are in high demand. The flower is liked and appreciated for its richness of color and long flowering, which is particularly attractive to cold period time.

Popular varieties of chrysanthemums in indoor floriculture:

"Golden Gloria" - dense bushes with big amount large yellow inflorescences.
"Old Gold" - plants with petals of an unusual reddish-bronze color.
"Morifolium" - a variety with large simple, semi-double and double inflorescences 5 cm in diameter.

Chrysanthemum Chinese or mulberry

A group of varieties and hybrids, for the creation of which several species were used. Plants for indoor floriculture have a compact shape, thin, highly branched stems 20–25 cm high. The leaves are saturated green, 7 cm long and 4–5 cm wide. Dotted glands are visible on the upper side of the leaf blade. Inflorescences of Chinese chrysanthemums - simple, semi-double and double, of various sizes and colors.

Chrysanthemum care at home

Buying a plant flower shop or receive as a gift. In any case, it is necessary to create conditions in the new room so that the buds do not fall off. Planting and caring for a chrysanthemum in a room is different from open ground and a greenhouse.

Lighting, temperature control

Light affects flowering and bud opening. The amount of light that is provided by placing the pot on a plastic or plastic windowsill is suitable. wooden windows facing west and east. Hitting the rays at noon can cause leaf burns, in this situation it is recommended to shade the plant. A young bush blooms with a day length of 6-8 hours in October or November (depending on the region).

The temperature comfortable for room chrysanthemum is 18–23 ° С. The variety, more demanding on the conditions of detention, reacts to the heat by dropping buds and leaves. It is advisable to spray the plant with water more often in summer to reduce the temperature. You can leave it in front of an open window, the chrysanthemum is not afraid of drafts.

Watering and feeding

The soil in the pot should always be moist. Chrysanthemum indoor prefers frequent irrigation, but not excessive. Stagnation of water in a pot can lead to root rot, the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases.

The substrate must not be allowed to dry out.
In autumn and winter, water once a week in the morning.
Watering in spring and summer is carried out 2 times a week in the evening.
In the heat, spray water near indoor plants to lower the air temperature.
Used for irrigation and spraying settled water. If it is hard, then a white coating accumulates on the surface of the soil.
Avoid getting drops on the flowers.

Abundantly flowering chrysanthemums require more frequent fertilization. Spend liquid top dressing once a week until the end of flowering. It is advisable to use complex fertilizers with the addition of trace elements. Actively growing shoots need nitrogen; during budding and flowering, more potassium and phosphorus are required. Feed the plant in a pot about 12 hours after watering.

Pruning and shaping the bush

The purchased plant retains its original shape for a long time. If in the future the growth of shoots is not regulated, then several long stems appear, which reduces the decorative effect.

Perform pinching of rapidly growing shoots. Small-flowered chrysanthemums will require 2 or 3 treatments.
Large-flowered hybrids can be formed in the form of a tree, for which the main shoot is shortened and the lower branches are cut off.
Pinching out inflorescences that are starting to fade helps to increase the number of new buds.

Pruning is needed in case of delayed flowering. Selective pinching of the tops of the peduncles will ensure the flow nutrients to the remaining buds.

Plant transplant

Young and old plants need to update the substrate. Transfer to a deeper and wider pot once a year - in spring or early summer. The substrate is prepared from garden soil, peat and humus (1:1:1). You can use ready-made soil for indoor flowers.

For chrysanthemums, such indicators as loose structure, lightness, moisture capacity and nutritional value of the soil (mechanical composition and fertility) are important.

After transplantation, young offspring are covered with a plastic cup, adult plants with a plastic bag. Provide at first diffused lighting, do not forget about watering.

Features of care after flowering

After the end of flowering, weak and diseased shoots are removed. Some growers recommend trimming the stems, leaving short sections above the surface of the substrate. After that, the soil is watered and the pot is removed in a cool, dry place until spring.

You can do without radical pruning at the root, leave the chrysanthemum in as before on the window sill in the room. The third option: to stimulate the growth of shoots and the formation compact bush pruning is done, but the pot is not removed. A strong chrysanthemum in the same season will start new shoots and bloom.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums at home

Adult chrysanthemums "acquire" root offspring (kids). From these additional shoots, young plants can be grown. Root offspring are carefully separated from the mother bush, planted in small containers. It is necessary to keep the depth of the plant at the same level. To do this, increase the height of the drainage layer or place the roots higher. Cover the seedlings with a plastic cup. In the autumn of the same year, young plants will bloom.

Rooting stem cuttings:

Cut off young shoots from an adult plant.
Fill transparent Plastic container from cookies or cakes with well-washed sand.
Planted cuttings, cover with a lid from the container.
After the formation of roots and the appearance of new leaves, young plants are transplanted into a pot.

Chrysanthemums are difficult to grow from seed. hybrid varieties are often sterile. Usually when seed propagation chrysanthemum varietal characteristics are not preserved.

The main problems when growing a plant

Why do leaves turn yellow?

Chrysanthemum leaves change color due to improper care and diseases. Yellowing may be due to lack of light, water, hot air from the radiator. The appearance of grayish-yellow or brown spots with a yellow border is a sign of a fungal infection. If yellowing is due to poor care, then it is easier to correct this deficiency than to treat plant diseases.

Chrysanthemum does not bloom - why?

Typical reasons for the absence of buds and flowers are a lack or excess of lighting. Chrysanthemum is a short day plant. If there is artificial lighting in the room in the morning and in the evening, then the biorhythms go astray. Another reason is associated with the rapid growth of stems and leaves, which happens with an excess of top dressing and no pruning.

Diseases and pests of room chrysanthemum

The plant is prone to rust powdery mildew, gray and black rot. These fungal infections are treated with houseplant fungicides. Chrysanthemum aphids, black sciarid midges, soil mites, springtails harm. The leaves are treated with a solution of Actellik, Fitoverm or Bazudin. For spraying, flowers are taken out to the balcony. window sills, window frames wash with a solution of soda and soap.

After the death of the pests, they change upper layer soil in a pot to a depth of 2 cm. It is recommended that you carefully consider the choice of substrate. Usually, pathogens and plant pests are contained in the soil brought from the garden.

It is very important to isolate the affected plant from the rest of the green pets in the room, to carry out pest and disease control in a timely manner. Then the chrysanthemums will remain healthy, will delight in flowering for a long time.

The success of growing chrysanthemums largely depends on the ability to form a bush, choose the best buds and remove stepchildren in time. This is especially important for large-flowered varieties. Formation of a chrysanthemum bush different types carried out in different ways.

How to form a chrysanthemum bush

The main way to form chrysanthemums is pinching, which is carried out during June. The upper part of the shoots is removed during the active growth of the plant before the buds appear. Pinching helps to get a bush beautiful shape and profuse flowering.

It is easiest with Korean chrysanthemums, as they do not require special shaping. At the end of May, seedlings are planted in open ground at a distance of 40 cm from each other. At the same time, it is important to properly compact the soil around the plants, otherwise the shoots will stretch, and flowering will be weak. When the shoot will have 6-8 sheets, it needs to be pinched.

The methods of forming a bush of hybrid large-flowered and small-flowered chrysanthemums are different. When forming small-flowered varieties main goal is to obtain a well-developed crown with a large number of inflorescences and shoots. To do this, pinch the tops of the shoots over 4-5 leaves. The remaining buds give 2-4 shoots, which are then also pinched over the 7th leaf. The result is a pretty bush with a magnificent crown with up to 40 inflorescences.

Looks very original standard form plants. For this, the main shoot is grown up to desired height, pinch the top and remove side shoots, leaving only 2-4 shoots on top, which are pinched 2-3 times until a good crown is obtained.
Large-flowered varieties are pinched at a height of about 10-15 cm, the apical bud is removed, because the central shoot usually produces a small, poorly formed inflorescence. Of the resulting shoots, 1-3 are left, removing all lateral buds and shoots from them, except for the apical one. The interval between the last pinching and flowering is 30 days.

In addition to pinching, large-flowered varieties need to remove stepchildren - shoots developing from the leaf axils. At the same time, shoots and side buds are plucked, doing this daily from mid-July, and in August-September - once every three days. Stepchildren are removed when they are easily plucked with fingers.

Another technique for forming a chrysanthemum bush, usually used for large-flowered varieties, is bud pinching. It is necessary to choose the best inflorescence, but for this you need to know the features of their development. The first spring bud appears in May or early June. Its development suppresses the 2nd order shoot that follows it, which gives the first crown bud. True, it may also not develop due to the shoot of the 3rd order, on which a bud also appears (the second crown), and then the third crown. Observations have shown that best flowers are formed from the first or second crown bud. That is why only one of them is left, and the second is deleted. The first spring and third crown bud are also removed.

Pinching can also be carried out on medium-flowered and small-flowered varieties. The best inflorescences they get from the second crown buds after a double pinch.

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Chrysanthemums are beautiful plants, which are represented by a wide variety of inflorescences. This plant lends itself very well to shaping, which is often used by gardeners to obtain an aesthetically attractive plant. You can achieve success in growing this plant with the ability to properly form a bush and choose the most suitable bud from which it will appear. magnificent inflorescence. It is also necessary to choose the right time for pinching and remove side shoots in time.

Very milestone when forming a plant is the removal of the upper part of the stem and pinching. This event allows you to delay the growth of the plant, due to which root system strengthens, and new side shoots are formed. The number of pinchings and the time they are carried out directly affect the height of the plant. Depending on the variety of the plant and the timing of its reproduction, a different number of pinching is carried out. If the plant is of early varieties, then pinch it from 1 to 3 times. If cuttings were carried out at a later time, then such plants are grown with one pinching or without it at all.

Pinching provides fast growth for the plant and its side shoots, so the first pinching is carried out over the 5th or 7th leaf. After ten days, such a cutting can be planted in the soil. The second pinching is carried out 15 days after the first, and later it must be carried out 2.5 months before the flowering of the plant.

Features of different varieties of chrysanthemums

It is worth paying attention to the features of growth different varieties chrysanthemums. Here it must be remembered that early varieties chrysanthemums are pinched once and occasionally twice. Later cuttings are grown without pinching at all. Chrysanthemums of late and medium varieties are pinched up to 3 times and always take into account the timing of cuttings. In order to get large flowers on the stem large varieties chrysanthemums need to leave only one flower.

Chrysanthemum seedlings, which were obtained by cuttings, require special care. She will need watering and fertilizing. But, nevertheless, for a plant during this period it is very important correct formation plants. At various kinds and plant varieties, the formation is carried out in completely different ways. Perennial plants include hybrid chrysanthemums, Korean, which can perfectly winter in our conditions.

Korean chrysanthemums are the simplest and do not require special shaping. Seedlings of such a plant must be planted around the 20th of May. After planting the plants in the soil, they must be carefully compacted to avoid abundant growth of shoots. In the first days after planting a flower, it must be watered abundantly.

Hybrid chrysanthemums can be divided into large and small flowering. In varieties with small flowers, by pinching, they try to get a well-developed crown with a significant number of inflorescences and shoots. To carry out pinching in young plants, the process is carried out on the 4th or 5th leaf. From the buds that remain, over time, from 2 to 4 shoots are obtained, which also need to be pinched on the 7th or 8th leaf. As a result, we have the opportunity to get a plant with a well-developed crown.

Concerning large-flowered chrysanthemums, then they are pinched by 10-15 cm, while removing the top bud, because the central shoot gives a poorly formed bud. This variety of chrysanthemums must be planted in pots and tied with pegs, and at the end of May, the flower, together with the pot, is dug into open ground. Knowing how to graft a chrysanthemum, you can get beautiful plants with a large number of inflorescences and a well-formed crown.

Chrysanthemums of undersized varieties are mainly grown in a pot:

Chrysanthemum chinensis– hybrid perennial. The height of undersized varieties is up to 70 cm. Oval leaves with a bright aroma. Flowers - large-toothed simple and terry of various colors.
Chrysanthemum Indian- Ideal for growing indoors. Height - up to 50 cm. Particularly popular varieties: Snow Elf, Alt Gold, Aurora, Helen.
Korean chrysanthemum is good for growing in a pot. Globular flowers - bright different colors. The most common varieties: Orange Jam, Navare, Stella.

Features of caring for a chrysanthemum in a pot

Despite the fact that the chrysanthemum is an unpretentious plant, growing it at home has some features. By adhering to them, you can grow a strong plant that blooms for a long time.

1. Temperature

Chrysanthemum prefers fresh air and relative coolness. Comfortable for them is the temperature from +10° to +15°, maximum - +18°. This optimum temperature, in which the flower picks up a lot of buds and blooms for a long time.

The plant will endure well and hot summers if placed in a shaded and ventilated place. In winter, the suitable temperature for chrysanthemum is +2° to +5°.

2. Lighting

Chrysanthemum is a short day plant and blooms when the day is reduced to 8-10 hours. Chrysanthemum is a light-loving flower, but does not tolerate direct sunlight.

The most suitable place for a chrysanthemum is a window on the east or west side of the room. On windows facing north, the chrysanthemum may not bloom. On the south side, the plant must be shaded.

3. Soil

The soil for chrysanthemum should be loose and nutritious, but not acidic. To prepare the soil mixture you will need: garden and sod land, sand and humus in a ratio of 4:4:1:1.

For intense coloring of flowers, chicken manure can be added to the soil mixture.

5. Watering

Chrysanthemum needs good watering. It is necessary to water the flower regularly every 3-5 days. At the slightest drying of the soil, flowers and buds wither, and with an excess of moisture, the plant may die. Therefore, watering the chrysanthemum should be as soon as the top layer of soil becomes dry.

Water preferably with filtered or rain water. It is desirable to defend tap water for 1-2 days. Too hard water can be boiled and water the plants with chilled water.

6. Humidity

Chrysanthemum needs high humidity anyway, initially garden plant. Chrysanthemum care includes regular spraying with water. Spray the plant preferably in the morning.

It is better to use purified water for spraying, as tap water may leave plaque on the leaves. You can humidify the air if you place a container of water next to the flowers or use humidifiers. In autumn and winter, spraying is stopped.

7. Top dressing

Chrysanthemum must be regularly fertilized in order for it to develop properly and bloom luxuriantly.

Once every 2 weeks, the plant must be fed:

During the growth period (spring-summer), when the plant is gaining mass, feed with a fertilizer with a large amount of nitrogen.
When the chrysanthemum is preparing to bloom and forms buds, it needs potassium-phosphorus fertilizers.

The first top dressing is carried out 2-3 weeks after transplantation. If there is enough humus in the soil, then the first top dressing should be carried out in a month and a half.

8. Planting a chrysanthemum in a pot

Depending on the variety of chrysanthemum and the number of cuttings, choose a container for the plant:

For 1 plant- container with a diameter of 9 cm.
For 3 plants- 11 cm.
For 5 plants- 13 cm.

Pour a layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the container - for drainage.
Fill 2/3 of the container with soil mixture.
A seedling is placed in the mixture and set so that the roots are on the surface. Carefully fill with compost. After planting, do not compact the soil so as not to damage the roots.
Moisten the soil with a spray bottle and make sure that the soil is always wet.
Place the container in a bright place, temperature up to + 10 °.

In order for the chrysanthemum to actively develop, you can use growth biostimulants.

10. Transplant

Chrysanthemum should be transplanted in the same way as most indoor plants. Young plants, up to 5 years old - replant every year, adults - once every 2 years.

After a period of rest, when the first shoots appear, the chrysanthemum should be transplanted:

Take a container for transplantation 2-3 cm wider than the previous one.
Pour drainage at the bottom of the tank - a layer of expanded clay, on top - a soil mixture (as described above).
Carefully remove the chrysanthemum from the old pot and move it to a new container.
Fill in the gaps with earth and lightly compact.
To prevent water from leaking out of the pot when watering, do not fill the soil to the very edge of the container.
Water the plant thoroughly.

How to prune a chrysanthemum

1. Formation of a bush

Pruning involves the removal of the upper part of the stem, due to which the growth of the plant slows down, the root system develops, side shoots appear:

Start pruning 10-15 days after planting.
From the stem, 12-15 cm long, cut off the upper part of the plant with 3-4 leaves with a sharp knife or pruner.
After pruning, water the plant with nitrogen fertilizer.
After 2-3 weeks after pruning, shoots form in the axils of the leaves.

Do not prune while transplanting.

2. Preparation for the rest period

After flowering, the chrysanthemum must be cut off. Retreat from the soil surface 5-10 cm, using a pruner, cut the stems of the plant.

If you notice that the plant is damaged by aphids, cut off the diseased stems. healthy plants it is impossible to cut after patients with the same tool.

After pruning, the plants are cleaned in a cool (no more than + 5 °) dark room until spring. Pruning is necessary. The plant will rest and gain strength for better growth and flowering. During rest, the plant needs to be watered occasionally.

You can postpone the rest period if the bush is healthy and strong enough:

Cut the plant, transplant into a larger container. Completely replace the old substrate with a new one.
Put the chrysanthemum in a bright, warm place, temperature from +18° to +20°.
Water the flower 2-3 times a week.
Feed with a nitrogenous fertilizer once every 2 weeks.
After the appearance of the first buds, feed the plant with potassium-phosphorus fertilizer.

With proper care, the chrysanthemum will bloom in 2-2.5 months. But after flowering it must be sent to rest.

Reproduction of chrysanthemum in a pot

Chrysanthemum reproduces in 3 ways:

cuttings.
The division of the bush.
Seeds.

1. Cuttings

After a period of rest, a month before cutting, transfer the container with chrysanthemum to a lighted warm place (from + 10 ° to + 12 °).

When 4-6 leaves are formed on the shoots, you can start cuttings:

It is better to take a high capacity, with the expectation that the cuttings will need to be covered at first.
Prepare the substrate: humus, garden soil and sand, in this ratio - 1: 2: 0.5, given that the top layer of sand should be 2-3 cm. Or take a mixture of perlite and sand, 1: 1.
Put drainage at the bottom of the tank - expanded clay, pebbles, etc. Pour the soil, on top - a layer of sand of at least 2 cm. Pour.
Cut off the tops of the stems 10 cm high, make the lower cut under the internode. Remove the bottom leaves.
Dip the cutting in the growth stimulator. And deepen the cuttings by 1.5-2 cm into moistened sand at an angle of 45 ° with a gap between them of 5 cm.
Cover the container with glass or film and place the container with the cuttings in a bright, warm place (t from +17° to +20°).
Make sure that the soil in the container is always moist by spraying it daily with a spray bottle.
Cuttings take root in 2 to 4 weeks. As soon as the cuttings take root, as evidenced by the growth that appears on them, the film must be removed.

After 2-3 weeks, chrysanthemums can be planted in pots.

2. Division of the bush

Simple and more reliable way chrysanthemum reproduction is the division of the bush during the period of intensive growth of shoots.

From one bush of an overwintered plant, up to 6 divisions are obtained:

Water the bush before dividing.
Pour into new pot drainage and a mixture consisting of garden and sod land, sand and humus. Pour the mixture into 2/3 of the container.
Remove the chrysanthemum from the old container, carefully separate the young shoots so that each separated part retains a root.
Put the young shoot in a pot and carefully, trying not to damage the roots, cover it with earth. Do not compact the ground.
After transplanting, carefully water the shoots, preferably with a spray gun, so as not to accidentally erode the soil.
Place the container with shoots in a bright warm (but not more than + 20 °) place. Shade from the sun.

After 2-3 weeks, the delenki will take root well.

3. Propagation by seeds

Sowing time is determined by the time of the beginning of flowering:

Treat the sowing container with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Pour drainage and a mixture of garden soil, sand and humus into the container, 2: 0.5: 1.
Moisten the substrate and spread the seeds on top. The seeds are not sprinkled with soil, as they need light to germinate. Or sprinkle with a thin layer of light soil.
Cover the container with glass or plastic wrap and clean in a bright room (t from + 10 ° to + 15 °).
Moisten the soil only with a spray bottle.
After 7-12 days shoots will appear. Remove cover.
After the formation of 4-6 true leaves, the plant dives with an interval between them of 5-10 cm.

A month and a half before flowering, chrysanthemums are planted in a permanent place.

Disease and pest control

The aphid damages the shoots of the plant and leaves from the underside, which turn yellow and fall off. Spray with Fitoverm, Inta-Vir, Actellik. In case of severe damage, repeat spraying.

Red spider mite damages leaves that turn pale yellow and fall off. The cause of the disease may be dry air. Spray with insecticides.
Septoria- yellow spots appear on the leaves, and then brown spots. Remove diseased leaves and treat with fungicide. Do not spray the plant for several weeks, reduce watering. The cause of the disease is an excess of nitrogenous fertilizer.
powdery mildew covers the stems and leaves with a white bloom. The cause of the disease is high humidity. Treat the plant with a fungicide.
Gray rot- appear on the plant brown spots, then covered with a gray coating. Cause of disease high humidity. Treat the plant with Fundazol. Repeat the treatment after a few days.

It must be remembered that chemicals unsafe. If possible, use for processing in indoors you need biopreparations.

When using pesticides, take every precaution to ventilate the room thoroughly.

Frequently Asked Questions and Answers

Question. Why doesn't the chrysanthemum bloom?

Answer. Chrysanthemum must bloom in autumn. If this did not happen, then care for her was violated. Reasons for the lack of flowering: the timing of pruning the plant is violated, the chrysanthemum does not have enough light, poor soil or lack of fertilizers.

Question. Do I need to pinch the chrysanthemum?

Answer. Yes, it needs to be shaped. In order not to get a long single trunk, when the shoots are 10-15 cm, it is necessary to pinch them. During the growing season - 2-3 times. The last pinching should be done 2 weeks before flowering, somewhere in mid-August. To form a beautiful spherical bush, you need to cut off all overgrown shoots.

Question. Why does the chrysanthemum dry out?

Answer. Chrysanthemum leaves dry for several reasons. Increased temperature of the plant, pests, poor soil and frequent watering. If the plant is carried out proper care, all top dressings have been carried out, upon careful examination no pests have been found, then the chrysanthemum must be carefully dug up. Inspect the roots, if they begin to rot, then all rotten roots must be removed. Transplant the flower into another pot with fresh but moist soil. Do not water the plant for several days.

Question. Where to store chrysanthemums in winter?

Answer. In a cool room - on the veranda, insulated balcony. If this is not possible, then you can store it on the windowsill, cutting the plant minimally, removing all dry branches and leaves. Water in the same way as during the growing season. You can put a flower in the basement for the winter. Cut the bush, remove all dried and rotten twigs and leaves. Water the soil 2 days before wintering. When placed in the basement, the soil should be slightly damp, but not damp.