Do I need to pinch the tops of chrysanthemums. Rooting stem cuttings

In many chrysanthemums, buds begin to appear almost immediately after planting. They are cut off to enable the small and fragile bush to gain strength until autumn.

The main method of forming a bush is pinching, which must be carried out throughout June.

The formation of the bush will contribute to more abundant flowering.

Korean chrysanthemums are the simplest, they do not require special shaping. When planting plants in the ground, the soil must be well compacted, otherwise there will be strong growth of shoots and weak flowering. In the first days after planting, abundant watering is necessary.Be sure to pinch the shoot when it has 6-8 sheets.

The methods of formation of hybrid small-flowered and large-flowered chrysanthemums are different.

The purpose of the formation of small-colored chrysanthemums is to get a well-developed crown with large quantity shoots and inflorescences. To do this, in young plants pinch the top of the shoot over the 4-5th leaf. From the remaining buds, 2-4 shoots appear, which are also pinched over the 7-8th leaf. The result is a plant with beautiful crown, it gives 20-40 inflorescences and more.

You can get and standard form plants. To do this, the main shoot is grown to the required height, pinch the top and remove all side shoots, leaving only 2-4 on top, pinching of which is repeated 2-3 times until a well-developed crown is obtained.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are pinched at a height of 10-15 cm, removing the apical bud, since the central shoot usually gives a poorly formed and small inflorescence. Of the resulting shoots, 1-3 are left, in which all side shoots and buds are removed, except for the apical one.

When forming bushes, it should be noted that the interval between the last pinching and the beginning of flowering is approximately 30 days.

In addition to pinching, shoots developing from the leaf axils are removed from large-flowered chrysanthemums, that is, stepchildren. Simultaneously with the shoots, lateral buds are also plucked. They do this starting from mid-July daily, and in August and September once every 3 days. Stepchildren should be removed when they can be easily plucked with your fingers without touching the stem and leaves.

Bud pinching is also a technique usually applied to large-flowered chrysanthemums. It consists in choosing the best inflorescence. But in order to decide which of the buds to bet on, you need to know how their development is going.

The first bud, zero or spring, appears in May - early June. But its development is suppressed by the second-order shoot following it, on which a bud develops, called the first crown. However, it may not develop due to the growth of a third-order shoot, at the end of which a bud also develops - already the second crown, and then the third crown appears.

Over the years, it has been established that flowers best quality are formed from the first or second crown bud. Therefore, one of them is left, and the other is removed. They also get rid of the spring and third crown buds.

In medium and small-flowered varieties, bud tweezing can also be carried out. On these chrysanthemums, the best inflorescences form the second crown buds after pinching twice. The size of the flowers can be further increased if 3-5 flowering shoots are left on the bush and one inflorescence on each.

Many varieties of chrysanthemums have a height of more than 1 meter. Such bushes can fall apart and look untidy after windy weather, and therefore need additional support. You can use wooden, metal rods for individual shoots, as well as circular supports for the entire bush.

Korean chrysanthemum - the generalized name of a group of perennial small-flowered varieties garden chrysanthemum. Its origin is hybrid. "Korean" is named because the first specimens (and it was a Siberian chrysanthemum) used for crossing were brought from Korea. Differs in relative frost resistance. It is grown in open ground everywhere. There are a lot of varieties of this chrysanthemum. They differ in terms of flowering, the height of the bushes, the structure and size of the inflorescences, and the color of the flowers. They are inherent fast growth.

Korean chrysanthemum is a short day plant. The laying and formation of inflorescences occurs with a reduction in daylight hours. It is drought-resistant and photophilous. close occurrence ground water can lead to the death of the plant. For abundant flowering she needs five or more hours of sun daily.

If the Korean chrysanthemum is planted in the spring, then it is advisable to prepare the soil in the fall, add organic fertilizers, dig. Otherwise, when planting in each 20 cm hole, it is necessary to put humus or compost, filling it by a third, and then plant a rooted cutting (this is the best planting material). This procedure is carried out at the end of the frost.

For better lighting, it is advisable to plant chrysanthemums in a checkerboard pattern, leaving 40 cm between plants. If the cuttings were in pots, then they need to be transplanted with an earthen clod, without deepening, and watered.

At first, it is desirable to loosen the soil often, because at this time the root system and underground shoots grow, from which a bush will form. In the future, loosening must be stopped so that the young shoots are not damaged.

Korean chrysanthemum loves mulching, which protects against fungal diseases. For this purpose, pine needles, oat straw, chopped pine bark are excellent.

Without top dressing, it is difficult to grow chic bushes. At the beginning of cultivation, young plants need to be fed nitrogen fertilizers for building green mass, and then - phosphorus-potassium, for better flowering.

The formation of Korean chrysanthemum consists in removing buds that appear at the wrong time (in spring and early summer) and in shortening shoots that violate the shape of the bush. To achieve good branching, it is necessary to carry out 1-2 pinching (removing the tops of the shoots) with an interval of 30 days. If after the first pinching, which is carried out when 10 leaves grow, 7-12 shoots are formed, then the second pinching is no longer required. Otherwise, the tops of the grown lateral shoots are pinched over the 3-5th leaf.

Korean chrysanthemums bloom around September. Some varieties - earlier, others - later. Flowering lasts until frost, after which you need to cut off the entire aerial part, leave a small stump. When frosty weather sets in, it is necessary to insulate the root system of chrysanthemums. In the southern regions, it is enough just to sprinkle with earth. In colder regions, you still need to cover with spruce branches, cover with leaves.

In the spring, you need to remove the remnants of the stems, unscrew the central shoot completely, because it will no longer grow. The resumption of the bush will occur from underground side shoots. Korean chrysanthemum in one place can grow well for no more than three years. For the 3-4th year, the bush needs to be dug up and divided, throwing out the central part.

When it gets cold flowering bush can be dug up and transplanted into a large pot or bucket. Chrysanthemum at home will bloom for a long time, perhaps until the New Year. After flowering, the stems need to be cut and placed in a pot. cool place. In the spring, cuttings can be cut and rooted, and later planted in flower beds.

The autumn garden, in which the colors fade, evokes melancholy. Chrysanthemums are able to fill it with new tones. Plant these wonderful plants, they will delight with bright flowers and green foliage until frost.

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Pinching and pinching chrysanthemums : In order to grow larger, well-developed flowers and inflorescences, it is necessary to pinch (pruning) and pinch. Let's consider these operations separately.

Pinching (cutting): You have planted a rooted cutting of a large-flowered chrysanthemum. Sunny weather and proper care (watering and fertilizing) for the plant will give its results - the chrysanthemum will begin to grow rapidly upwards. As soon as the plant reaches 20-25 cm in length (7-10 leaves), it is necessary to trim or pinch - remove the upper part of the stem. The difference between pinching and trimming is only in the size of the top that is separated. When pinching, only the very tip of the shoot is removed, and when pruning, the detachable part of the shoot used for rooting is at least 7-10 cm.

When pruning, we cut off the upper part of the plant by 7-10 cm. (3-4 leaves) if the plant has reached a height of 20 cm. If you need to pinch, then simply remove the top of the chrysanthemum growth. As a rule, pinch once:

1) plants of early varieties;

2) undersized varieties of chrysanthemums.

Large-flowered we also recommend pinching once. If you do not pinch this group, then the primary bud will give an inferior flower. Pinching (pruning) helps to retard plant growth, better development of the root system, the formation of side shoots and the removal of spring buds. Plucked cuttings of chrysanthemums can be rooted, and later planted in the garden.

Pasynkovanie.

After pinching the plant, the rapid growth of lateral shoots begins. Therefore, in order to properly form a bush, it is also necessary to pinch - the removal of side shoots and buds, the so-called. stepson. They consume nutrients, greatly delay the development of the main stem and bud. Usually stepchildren are removed as soon as they grow to such a size that they can be grabbed with fingers. At the same time, please note that two or three stepchildren must be left in reserve in the upper part in case the main bud is damaged by pests and therefore underdeveloped. Large-flowered chrysanthemums periodically stepchild, removing unwanted shoots, and thus only one full-fledged flower is formed on each trunk.

Chrysanthemums are beautiful plants, which are represented by a wide variety of inflorescences. This plant lends itself very well to shaping, which is often used by gardeners to obtain an aesthetically attractive plant. You can achieve success in growing this plant with the ability to properly form a bush and choose the most suitable bud from which it will appear. magnificent inflorescence. It is also necessary to choose the right time for pinching and remove side shoots in time.

Very milestone when forming a plant is the removal of the upper part of the stem and pinching. This event allows you to delay the growth of the plant, due to which root system strengthens, and new side shoots are formed. The number of pinchings and the time they are carried out directly affect the height of the plant. Depending on the variety of the plant and the timing of its reproduction, a different number of pinching is carried out. If the plant is of early varieties, then pinch it from 1 to 3 times. If cuttings were carried out at a later time, then such plants are grown with one pinching or without it at all.

Pinching ensures rapid growth for the plant and its lateral shoots, so the first pinching is carried out over the 5th or 7th leaf. After ten days, such a cutting can be planted in the soil. The second pinching is carried out 15 days after the first, and later it must be carried out 2.5 months before the flowering of the plant.

Features of different varieties of chrysanthemums

It is worth paying attention to the features of growth different varieties chrysanthemums. Here it must be remembered that early varieties chrysanthemums are pinched once and occasionally twice. Later cuttings are grown without pinching at all. Chrysanthemums of late and medium varieties are pinched up to 3 times and always take into account the timing of cuttings. In order to get large flowers on the stem large varieties chrysanthemums need to leave only one flower.

Chrysanthemum seedlings, which were obtained by cuttings, require special care. She will need watering and fertilizing. But, nevertheless, for a plant during this period it is very important correct formation plants. At various kinds and plant varieties, the formation is carried out in completely different ways. TO perennials include hybrid chrysanthemums, Korean, which can perfectly winter in our conditions.

Korean chrysanthemums are the simplest and do not require special shaping. Seedlings of such a plant must be planted around the 20th of May. After planting the plants in the soil, they must be carefully compacted to avoid abundant growth of shoots. In the first days after planting a flower, it must be watered abundantly.

Hybrid chrysanthemums can be divided into large and small flowering. In varieties with small flowers, by pinching, they try to get a well-developed crown with a significant number of inflorescences and shoots. To carry out pinching in young plants, the process is carried out on the 4th or 5th leaf. From the buds that remain, over time, from 2 to 4 shoots are obtained, which also need to be pinched on the 7th or 8th leaf. As a result, we have the opportunity to get a plant with a well-developed crown.

As for large-flowered chrysanthemums, they are pinched by 10-15 cm, while removing the top bud, because the central shoot gives a poorly formed bud. This variety of chrysanthemums must be planted in pots and tied with pegs, and at the end of May, the flower, together with the pot, is dug into open ground. Knowing how to graft a chrysanthemum, you can get beautiful plants with a large number of inflorescences and a well-formed crown.

Luxurious inflorescences on autumn flower beds attract the eye and amaze with a variety of shades. Indoor chrysanthemum in a pot differs from relatives in the open ground by the compact shape of a spherical bush 20–40 cm high. Breeders have bred several hybrids and varieties adapted to lack of lighting and other indoor conditions.

"Home" chrysanthemums are not demanding for care, they grow well, bloom profusely and reproduce easily. In everyday life, it is customary to say "flowers", although the Asteraceae family has an inflorescence-basket. When buying, you should pay attention to the fact that there is a healthy chrysanthemum in a pot, care at home will then be much easier. Good developed plant, intended for keeping indoors, will continue to bloom on the windowsill. Under favorable conditions, the buds can bloom almost without interruption for 2 years.

It should be noted that after self-propagation by cuttings or root offspring, new plants do not turn out to be as compact and dense as those purchased in a store.

Outdoor chrysanthemums are sold in plastic containers. Such flowers are planted in open ground, or left in containers, used for container gardening, patio decoration, and the entrance to the house. After flowering, the stems are cut, containers with roots are sent to the basement or loggia for the winter. If street chrysanthemum keep indoors, her leaves will turn yellow and dry. These plants need Fresh air and a certain lighting regime - the night is longer than the day.

Varieties of chrysanthemums for growing in pots

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, geneticists and agrochemists, plants have been bred that can bloom profusely and for a long time in a room. In total, about 40 hybrid varieties of chrysanthemums have been created for indoor cultivation. Inflorescences may be smaller or the same size as in outdoor plants. Often varieties are grouped by origin from one natural species.

Chrysanthemum Indian

In nature, this is relatively low herbaceous plant. The leaves are toothed, green-gray. The inflorescence is a basket resembling a chamomile with yellow petals and the same core. It is the ancestor of small-flowered hybrids for growing on the windowsill and balcony.

The Indian chrysanthemum was crossed with species having white and pink inflorescences. Breeders using chemicals, affecting growth, received compact forms 20-25 cm high. Today there are a large number of different forms and varieties that feel good in the room, are in high demand. The flower is liked and appreciated for its richness of color and long flowering, which is particularly attractive to cold period time.

Popular varieties of chrysanthemums in indoor floriculture:

• "Golden Gloria" - dense bushes with a large number of large yellow inflorescences.
• "Old Gold" - plants with petals of an unusual reddish-bronze color.
• "Morifolium" - a variety with large simple, semi-double and double inflorescences 5 cm in diameter.

Chrysanthemum Chinese or mulberry

A group of varieties and hybrids, for the creation of which several species were used. Plants for indoor floriculture have a compact shape, thin, highly branched stems 20–25 cm high. The leaves are saturated green, 7 cm long and 4–5 cm wide. Dotted glands are visible on the upper side of the leaf blade. Inflorescences of Chinese chrysanthemums - simple, semi-double and double, of various sizes and colors.

Chrysanthemum care at home

Buying a plant flower shop or receive as a gift. In any case, it is necessary to create conditions in the new room so that the buds do not fall off. Planting and caring for a chrysanthemum in a room is different from open ground and a greenhouse.

Lighting, temperature control

Light affects flowering and bud opening. The amount of light that is provided by placing the pot on a plastic or plastic windowsill is suitable. wooden windows facing west and east. Hitting the rays at noon can cause leaf burns, in this situation it is recommended to shade the plant. A young bush blooms with a day length of 6-8 hours in October or November (depending on the region).

The temperature comfortable for room chrysanthemum is 18–23 ° С. The variety, more demanding on the conditions of detention, reacts to the heat by dropping buds and leaves. It is advisable to spray the plant with water more often in summer to reduce the temperature. You can leave it in front of an open window, the chrysanthemum is not afraid of drafts.

Watering and feeding

The soil in the pot should always be moist. Chrysanthemum indoor prefers frequent irrigation, but not excessive. Stagnation of water in a pot can lead to root rot, the spread of fungal and bacterial diseases.

1. The substrate must not be allowed to dry out.
2. In autumn and winter, water once a week in the morning.
3. Watering in spring and summer is carried out 2 times a week in the evening.
4. In the heat, spray water near indoor plants to lower the air temperature.
5. Used for irrigation and spraying settled water. If it is hard, then a white coating accumulates on the surface of the soil.
6. Avoid getting drops on the flowers.

Abundantly flowering chrysanthemums require more frequent fertilization. Spend liquid top dressing once a week until the end of flowering. It is advisable to use complex fertilizers with the addition of trace elements. Actively growing shoots need nitrogen; during budding and flowering, more potassium and phosphorus are required. Feed the plant in a pot about 12 hours after watering.

Pruning and shaping the bush

The purchased plant retains its original shape for a long time. If in the future the growth of shoots is not regulated, then several long stems appear, which reduces the decorative effect.

• Perform pinching of rapidly growing shoots. Small-flowered chrysanthemums will require 2 or 3 treatments.
• Large-flowered hybrids can be formed in the form of a tree, for which the main shoot is shortened and the lower branches are cut off.
• Pinching out inflorescences that are starting to fade helps to increase the number of new buds.

Pruning is needed in case of delayed flowering. Selective pinching of the tops of the peduncles will ensure the flow nutrients to the remaining buds.

Plant transplant

Young and old plants need to update the substrate. Transfer to a deeper and wider pot once a year - in spring or early summer. The substrate is prepared from garden soil, peat and humus (1:1:1). You can use ready-made soil for indoor flowers.

For chrysanthemums, such indicators as loose structure, lightness, moisture capacity and nutritional value of the soil (mechanical composition and fertility) are important.

After transplantation, young offspring are covered with a plastic cup, adult plants with a plastic bag. Provide at first diffused lighting, do not forget about watering.

Features of care after flowering

After the end of flowering, weak and diseased shoots are removed. Some growers recommend trimming the stems, leaving short sections above the surface of the substrate. After that, the soil is watered and the pot is removed in a cool, dry place until spring.

You can do without radical pruning at the root, leave the chrysanthemum in as before on the window sill in the room. The third option: to stimulate the growth of shoots and the formation compact bush pruning is done, but the pot is not removed. A strong chrysanthemum in the same season will start new shoots and bloom.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums at home

Adult chrysanthemums "acquire" root offspring (kids). From these additional shoots, young plants can be grown. Root offspring are carefully separated from the mother bush, planted in small containers. It is necessary to keep the depth of the plant at the same level. To do this, increase the height of the drainage layer or place the roots higher. Cover the seedlings with a plastic cup. In the autumn of the same year, young plants will bloom.

Rooting stem cuttings:

1. Cut off young shoots from an adult plant.
2. Fill transparent Plastic container from cookies or cakes with well-washed sand.
3. Planted cuttings, cover with a lid from the container.
4. After the formation of roots and the appearance of new leaves, young plants are transplanted into a pot.

Chrysanthemums are difficult to grow from seed. hybrid varieties are often sterile. Usually when seed propagation chrysanthemum varietal characteristics are not preserved.

The main problems when growing a plant

Why do leaves turn yellow?

Chrysanthemum leaves change color due to improper care and diseases. Yellowing may be due to lack of light, water, hot air from the radiator. The appearance of grayish-yellow or brown spots with a yellow border is a sign of a fungal infection. If yellowing is due to poor care, then it is easier to correct this deficiency than to treat plant diseases.

Chrysanthemum does not bloom - why?

Typical reasons for the absence of buds and flowers are a lack or excess of lighting. Chrysanthemum is a short day plant. If there is artificial lighting in the room in the morning and in the evening, then the biorhythms go astray. Another reason is associated with the rapid growth of stems and leaves, which happens with an excess of top dressing and no pruning.

Diseases and pests of room chrysanthemum

The plant is prone to rust powdery mildew, gray and black rot. These fungal infections are treated with houseplant fungicides. Chrysanthemum aphids, black sciarid midges, soil mites, springtails harm. The leaves are treated with a solution of Actellik, Fitoverm or Bazudin. For spraying, flowers are taken out to the balcony. window sills, window frames wash with a solution of soda and soap.

After the death of the pests, they change upper layer soil in a pot to a depth of 2 cm. It is recommended that you carefully consider the choice of substrate. Usually, pathogens and plant pests are contained in the soil brought from the garden.

It is very important to isolate the affected plant from the rest of the green pets in the room, to carry out pest and disease control in a timely manner. Then the chrysanthemums will remain healthy, will delight in flowering for a long time.

Rooted cuttings are carefully removed so as not to damage the delicate, fragile roots. Then they should be planted in boxes, on racks, in greenhouses or pots (9 cm in diameter). The room where rooted cuttings are planted should be bright, well ventilated, with a temperature of 14 - 16 C. When the temperature rises with strong solar heating, it can be brought to normal with ventilation.
The cuttings are planted shallow, so that the base of the stem - the place where the roots form - is not lower than 1 cm from the surface of the earth. After a few days, the earth will settle and the place where the roots will form will be almost at ground level. The distance between the cuttings in February - March is 10 x 10, and in April - June 8 x 8 and 6 x 6.

Watering and loosening of the top layer of the earth should be carried out systematically. As the roots of the earthen coma are braided, young plants are transplanted from pots with a diameter of 9 cm into pots with a diameter of 11 cm. Where rooted cuttings are on racks, in greenhouses or boxes, thinning is periodically carried out so that the leaves of neighboring plants do not lean against.

25 - 30 days before planting in the ground, all plants are transferred to greenhouses filled with peat, earth or humus. Pots are dug in at ground level at a distance of 5 - 6 cm. During the day, the frames are opened first for several hours, and then for the whole day. 10 - 15 days before landing in open ground, the frames are removed.

Pinching and pruning are techniques in which the upper part of the shoot of a rooted cutting is removed. This is done to retard growth, better development roots, the formation of side shoots and the removal of spring buds. The difference between pinching and trimming is the size of the top that is cut off.

Pinching is used when the tip is not used. When pruning, the top is rooted. Cuttings from the tops can be shorter than usual, but not less than 4 - 5 cm.

Small-colored varieties of chrysanthemums only pinch. In large-flowered, if new cuttings are needed, pruning is carried out, if cuttings are not needed, then pinching. The top of the stem is removed with a sharp knife, or with your hands (nails of a large and index finger). This is done 10 - 15 days after planting rooted cuttings in pots with a diameter of 9 cm, racks and greenhouses, when young plants start to grow. The stem currently has a length of 12 - 15 cm and has six to eight leaves; after pinching or pruning, at least three to four leaves remain on the stem.

Young plants obtained from the tops of rooted cuttings are not tall, bloom 8-12 days later than usual and have large inflorescences. Plants obtained from lateral shoots during the second and third pruning of mother plants behave similarly.

After the first pinching or pruning, the plants are watered with a weak solution of organic or mineral nitrogen-containing fertilizers. Three or four side shoots grow from the axils of the left leaves in 10-15 days. In large-flowered varieties, one side shoot is left ( better than the second from above), the rest are cut off, and, if necessary, used on cuttings. In all large-flowered and small-flowered varieties, side shoots are not removed.

The number of pinches depends on the breeding period and variety. Large-flowered varieties propagated in March are pruned in April or early May, pinched at the end of May, and those rooted in April are pinched in May. Some varieties, propagated late, pinch only after the appearance of spring buds, removing them. This is explained by the fact that such young plants, with the appearance of spring buds, complete their growth while they themselves have not yet grown sufficiently; if pinching is done before the appearance of spring buds, then such plants weaken (growth and the appearance of new leaves are delayed).

In some varieties, the first pinching is carried out in April or early May. In varieties intended for cutting, they are limited to one pinching, while three to four stems are formed. To obtain five to eight shoots, a second pinching is carried out: each side shoot that has reached 10 - 12 cm is subject to pinching. To get simultaneous flowering on the plant, pinching all side shoots is best done at the same time. If the plant has some lateral shoots that have not reached the desired length, pinching can be delayed by 8-10, but not more than 12 days. Sometimes, to obtain low bushy plants (especially in small-flowered varieties), a third pinch is made. Such varieties are propagated in the second half of February, or early March.

The last pinching of large-flowered chrysanthemums ends in early June for early-flowering varieties, in mid-June for medium-flowering varieties, and in early July for late-flowering varieties. Small-flowered varieties are re-pinched at the end of May, in the middle, or at the end of June, depending on the variety. If they are propagated in April, then pinch them once - in May, or at the beginning of June.

Between the date of the last pinching and the beginning of budding, there should be a growth period of 30 - 40, but not less than 25 days, depending on the variety.

Pinching or trimming are a separate and complex technique that disrupts the normal rhythm of development young plant. Therefore, they should not coincide with any other technique from which stunting occurs, such as transplanting, or transshipment.