Wood tray sizes. To help the home master: a breakfast table in bed
Among the offers of modern furniture stores there are interesting coffee tables with a soft top, if you can call it that. They look interesting in the interior, but they are never practical. Juice or coffee stains are not as easy to wipe off as with ordinary wood or glass top. For all owners of such a miracle and just those who love breakfast in bed, we propose to make just such a tray. It is stylish in appearance and not expensive at cost.
materials
Before you make a tray with your own hands, make sure you have:
- boards from a pallet or box;
- hardwood boards;
- white paints;
- varnish based on polyurethane;
- masking tape;
- saws;
- sandpaper;
- brushes;
- chisels;
- clamps;
- wood glue;
- roulettes;
- self-tapping screws;
- drills;
- screwdriver or screwdriver;
- pencil.
Step 1. Decide on the dimensions of the tray and, based on this, cut the boards you have from the box or pallet to the length. In this case, I wanted the boards to look like a single whole after gluing, without joints, seams and other irregularities. To do this, the boards had to be adjusted to each other and in thickness.
Step 2. With the help of clamps and wood glue, all the boards should be glued together, carefully pressing them together so that none of them stand out from the row. After the workpiece has dried, all excess glue should be removed, and the surfaces should be carefully sanded.
Step 3. From the boards of light woods, you will need to make the sides of the tray. In this case, poplar was taken.
When cutting wood, consider the perimeter of the base and your desired tray height.
In the side walls, be sure to mark the cutouts for the handles. Consider the height at which the base will be attached so that the slots do not go to the bottom.
Step 4. After cutting the holes, sand them thoroughly. They must be perfectly smooth.
Step 5. Using wood glue and clamps, glue the sides to the base.
Step 6. As additional fasteners you can use self tapping screws.
Step 7. After the glue dries, remove any excess. Cover the holes formed by the fasteners with wood putty. After letting it dry, level the surface with sandpaper or a grinder.
Step 8. Seal the bottom of the tray with masking tape. Apply two coats of paint to the sides. After it dries, remove the tape and leave everything until the surface is completely dry.
A beautiful tray is a multifunctional thing, it is at least a stylish interior accessory and kitchen item for easy transport of food and drinks. Quality store products, even if it is classic options, are expensive. But after spending a little time and effort, it is quite possible to make a tray with your own hands, while receiving original product which can become a priceless family heirloom. Creating it is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance.
You can make a homemade tray from wood, plywood, glass and decorative elements. It should be understood that not every type of wood is suitable for making kitchen trays. Masters recommend using:
- birch;
- linden;
- cherry;
- mulberry;
- alder;
- maple;
Resinous tree species (pine, spruce) are not suitable for the manufacture of kitchen utensils, as food will quickly absorb the coniferous smell.
The tray is enough simple design. A flat bottom, framed on four sides by sides, is easy to make from old things, for example:
- picture frames;
- doors from a broken kitchen table;
- ordinary thick board and slats.
Using plywood to make a tray is not always rational. On the one hand, the material is extremely malleable, which makes it easy to implement almost any idea, on the other hand, a plywood tray will turn out to be not very strong, and therefore impractical. Therefore, it is only suitable for interior decoration.
To make an accessory, you need to select the appropriate inventory. The number of tools depends on the complexity of the product. Before starting all the manipulations to create a tray, you need to prepare:
- jigsaw;
- screwdriver;
- glue gun with plastic rods;
- furniture stapler;
- sandpaper;
- simple pencil;
- grinder saw;
- ruler.
All necessary tools conditionally divided into groups. Some are designed for taking measurements and drawing. Others are needed for drilling, sawing material. The third group of fixtures is required for fastening parts.
Drafting
Before making any thing, including a tray, a sketch is first drawn. There are two ways to create a project. In the first case, the master starts from the material at hand, which he has available. In the second, an imaginary tray is depicted in the drawing, after which the necessary raw materials are only bought.
The parameters of the future product are preliminarily measured. The tray should be comfortable and light. Too much heavy construction difficult to move from kitchen to room. Next, you need to decide what functions the tray should perform. It can be equipped with removable or folding legs or have the form of a rectangular flat plate with sides. If necessary, this model is used as a light portable bedside table.
Implementation of an idea begins with design. Based on the sketch and the selected dimensions, an accurate drawing is created, which displays the necessary parameters and the proposed fasteners. Drawings of plywood plates for transfer include:
- Thickness of materials (base, sides).
- Width, length of the base.
- Hardware attachment points.
Complicated products are made of wood using various attachment points, legs, as well as parts that give rigidity to the structure. The drawing must show:
- The thickness of all source materials.
- Places for fastening fittings and decorative elements.
- Attachment points for legs and docking nodes.
Drawings for such portable tables are built in three-dimensional projection.
Manufacturing steps based on the model
A do-it-yourself wooden tray is made using a drawn drawing. The master prepares fasteners and other docking elements. The simplest models, which are a flat board with sides and handles, are made according to a simplified scheme. For their manufacture is enough:
- Cut out a rectangular base right size.
- Prepare a frame that matches the dimensions of the base.
- Attach handles to frame.
- Decorate the bottom.
- Connect the base to the frame.
Complex portable mini-tables are made in the same way. The difference is that attachment points for the legs are additionally fixed to the base. Holders and decorative handles are purchased in furniture stores. Decorate the product at the end of the work. The decoration method is chosen at the request of the master, based on the general interior of the room, the material from which the tray will be made. At the end of the work, the surface must be varnished or painted. Water-repellent coating will protect your portable device from liquid.
For breakfast in bed
It is quite difficult to make a model of a tray on legs for breakfast in bed, the master must at least be able to use the tools correctly. A portable mini-table can be created from a rectangular piece of plywood or board that is suitable in size. The list of materials depends on the model and design of the structure. To make a breakfast tray, you need to prepare:
- board 40 × 70 cm or thick plywood (any tree will do, except for pine and spruce);
- 4 metal tubes 1 meter long;
- corners with a diameter of 15 mm - 8 pieces;
- tees - 4 pieces;
- gaskets with a diameter of 15 mm - 4 pieces;
- varnish or stain.
The mini-table is convenient because it does not need to be installed on your knees, it is easily fixed on the surface of the bed. Detailed steps will show you how to do it. useful thing on one's own:
- Metal tubes are cut with a pipe cutter or a grinder into several pieces, while the edges should remain smooth, without dents. In total it should turn out:
- 4 pieces of 25 cm;
- 2 pieces of 58 cm;
- 4 pieces of 19 cm;
- 4 tubes of 6 cm.
- Install handles. Two tubes 25 cm long are connected at the ends with six-centimeter segments using corners and plastic glue. Finished handles are applied to the surface of the board and indicate the attachment points. In the designated places, holes are drilled equal to the diameter of the tubes (16 mm). The surface of the board is treated with sandpaper on both sides. After the surface of the wood becomes smooth enough, it is stained or varnished. O-rings are placed on the holes and fixed plastic glue. Handles are inserted into the holes. Legs (rack) are attached to the prepared tabletop:
- using tees, connect 2 pipes of 58 cm each (located horizontally under the tray) and 4 racks of 19 cm each (legs);
- the upper sections of the legs are inserted into the holes and fixed with mounting glue;
- using the remaining corners, connect the legs of the tray in pairs with two tubes of 25 cm each.
If these parts are not fixed with glue, they will easily detach from the main fabric of the accessory. A tray with folding legs is made according to the same principle as for folding beds. The elements themselves are attached to the base with rotary mechanisms, and stop them with hooks or loops.
cut copper pipes
Set handles
Drill board
Treat the wood surface
Apply silicone pads
Build a rack
Pin it to the board
From an old painting
wooden tray It is very easy to make from an old painting. All that is needed for this is the picture itself in the frame, suitable tools. Such a tray does not need additional decor. To make kitchen utensils you will need:
- two decorative door handles;
- a piece of plywood;
- self-tapping screws;
- screwdriver
Door handles are screwed to the sides of the frame. The picture itself is taken out, the base is cut out of plywood according to its size. The canvas with the image is glued onto the surface of the prepared plywood. The decorated plywood sheet is varnished on the front side, allowed to dry, then screwed to the frame with self-tapping screws. The tray is ready.
To make a tray from a photo frame is within the power of any novice craftsman. The store chooses a frame right size with a plywood base, if there is none, you will have to redo the usual one with a cardboard bottom. The work is done like this:
- The cardboard base and glass are separated from the frame.
- Holes are drilled in the frame on both sides, and then furniture handles are attached to it with self-tapping screws.
- The plywood base is cut to the size of the cardboard.
- Cardboard is decorated with any accessible way, then glue it to plywood using PVA wood glue.
- The base and glass are attached to the frame with a furniture stapler.
The sides and bottom of the converted product are painted or decorated decorative elements. In a furniture store you can find a large number of interesting details designed to decorate kitchen furniture. They decorate the resulting portable plate.
We take out the cardboard and leave only the glass
We make the finishing of cardboard with a cloth
We put the cardboard on the glass and fix it
Fixing furniture handles
With slate board
On a tray with slate board you can write romantic messages to your loved one. It is very easy to make such kitchen utensils. Enough to buy in the store slate paint and paint the bottom of the tray with it.
For this purpose, a purchased (glass, ceramic, metal) or hand-made product is suitable. The main thing is that the bottom surface is suitable for painting.
Instead of slate paint, it is advisable to use chalk wallpaper. Both manufacturing methods result in the same effect.
with mosaic
Creating a pattern on a tray with a mosaic requires patience. However, wooden utensils decorated with a similar ornament look extraordinarily beautiful. A classic mosaic is made from ceramic elements or glass pieces. In everyday life, the most unexpected improvised materials are used.
A sketch is preliminarily drawn, on the basis of which a sketch is developed. The image, taking into account the size of the finished product, is also created in color. Mosaic is recruited from any suitable material:
- small colored shells;
- flat pieces of broken glass;
- colored stones;
- dyed eggshell;
- tiles broken into small fragments;
- cut colored paper.
Each individual item glued to the wooden surface of the bottom of the tray. As an adhesive, a transparent "Moment" is used. Molten plastic can also be used. After the mosaic is ready, it is filled with transparent furniture varnish.
Masters with elementary drawing skills can paint the product according to their own taste. The ornament covers the sides and bottom of the tray. Decorative drawing performed in any style and direction. Painting with oil and acrylic at the end of the work is covered with a layer of varnish.
It is much easier and faster to decorate a tray with a photo from a magazine or a poster of a suitable size. The wooden bottom is pasted over with a picture, and then poured with several layers of varnish. The product is left to dry, only after that it is used in everyday life.
A tray decorated with a photograph and rose petals looks interesting. A photo with a life-size image of a flower is glued to the bottom. Then several petals are laid out on it so that they do not rise too much above the plane. The volumetric part can rise along the edges within 2-3 mm. Around the flower and on its petals, transparent and colored beads are poured. The whole composition is filled with transparent varnish.
The material for decor can be chosen the most unexpected. The main thing is a little imagination and adherence to technology. The bottom of the tray is usually decorated with:
- a mosaic of multi-colored flat buttons and woolen threads;
- applique from patches or golden coins;
- a collage of pieces of postcards;
- dry leaves, flowers;
- straw ornament;
- mat.
Tray handles can also be made unusual. For example, instead of ready-made store fittings, weave them from newspaper tubes, build from glued wine corks or a piece of wide leather belt. Alternatively, the simplest plastic handles wrap with thick twine. For do-it-yourself decorative tray legs, use a piece of PVC pipe painted in any desired color or a wooden dowel. With wood carving skills, this part can be made into any shape.
It doesn’t matter which of the proposed options is chosen, a hand-made tray in any case will become a vivid embodiment of an individual artistic design. An experienced master can create a complex multifunctional design, and novice home creators will at least be able to remake a boring picture or framed poster. 
Video
In this article, I will talk about a few simple tricks with which you can give a wooden surface a slightly aged look. Thus, it is convenient to process any products made of soft wood. We will train on the example of a pine tree tray. Such a tray turns out to be convenient for use, looks good just as an interior item, as a background when taking photos, and simply cheers up with its brightness! And extremely easy to make!
Necessary materials:
Board or piece of shield made of soft wood;
Korshchetka / attachment for a drill + drill or screwdriver;
Brush to remove dust from the surface
wood stain
Art acrylic in multiple colors
Bristle brushes, flutes
Palette or container for mixing paints
Water container for rinsing brushes
Sandpaper (60 or 80)
acrylic primer for wooden surfaces(or acrylic varnish diluted 1:1 with water)
Acrylic varnish for finish coat
Handles (for example, for furniture) and screws / self-tapping screws for their fastening
A few words about the base. Ideally, I would choose a board with interesting edges. But in winter time year find nice board difficult, but in construction stores there are furniture boards and there is a free sawing with the purchase. The disadvantage of the shield is that it is spliced from several bars and a single relief on the surface will not work. True, with the coloring that will be discussed, on finished product it won't be noticeable. However, if you cover the tree only with stain and refrain from staining, this will be visible. But this material is easily available at any time of the year. I chose a shield 30 * 2000 and sawed it right there into 4 pieces - 4 blanks for trays.
For the first stage, we need a brush / nozzle for a drill + a drill or a screwdriver. At this stage, we will remove soft fibers from the wooden surface, showing a natural relief. It's cheaper to buy a brush and use it - but this is quite a long physical work. You can buy a nozzle for a drill or a screwdriver, it works much more efficiently. When removing soft fibers, a lot of wood dust is obtained, so I strongly do not recommend doing this indoors. It is most convenient in the country: there, as a rule, there are no problems with electricity near the house and you can use a drill. In the city it is quite problematic to find electricity on the street, so I used a screwdriver. This is convenient, except that its battery power is not enough to process the entire board and it has to be recharged. But the dusty part of the work can be done on the street.
Both the brush and the nozzle need to work in the same way - to draw along the fibers, and not across. Then the soft fibers will be thrown to the side, and the hard ones will remain in place. How much to rub is a matter of taste, I set to work quite diligently, as a result, deep grooves form, the relief looks like an old tree, as if the board was left for several years on the street. 
This is what the board looks like after processing 
Using sandpaper (or a sander, whichever is more efficient) sand the edges of the board so it can be finished off and protect the tray user from scratches that could leave sharp corners boards: 
At the end of this stage, be sure to clean the board with an elastic brush from wood dust, cleaning it from all recesses. I use a slightly damp brush so as not to breathe dust once again.
Now you can start coloring. There are many options, but in general, the order is respected: the first step is to set the lowest, main color. The first layer must be qualitatively laid and it is necessary to paint over all the recesses, it is in them that it will be visible on the finished product. I use a dark stain called "Old Wood" dark color will shine through and create the effect of an old wooden base. In addition, the stain spreads very well through the fibers and fills all the recesses by itself, so you don’t have to worry about non-painting. Through trial and error, and after some bottles of stains went into the bin, I chose Liberon stains. The most important advantage of these stains in uniform distribution on the surface, without streaks and bald spots. I have come across stains that roll off the surface instead of soaking into it and eventually form ugly spots that give out color (when a good stain looks like the wood was that shade from the very beginning). There are hybrids of stain and varnish on sale, you can also use this option, in which case the next step (priming) can be skipped. I apply the stain with a flute (wide bristle flat brush). 
Even if you're using the best stain in the world, it's best to avoid streaks to ensure that the color is applied evenly. 
A distinctive feature of good quality stains is that they show the texture of wood, that is, the soft fibers of the fabric, due to better absorbency, are colored more strongly and become darker than denser, harder fibers. At the first stage, we created a relief that is very well emphasized when painting. 
After drying, the painted surface looks like this: 
To be honest, every time I struggle with the temptation to varnish this beauty and do nothing more with it. But it's not sports. Therefore, we continue before the next stage (color overlay), I recommend covering the entire surface with an acrylate primer (of any company, most importantly suitable for wooden surfaces). Because acrylic paints on water based if you do not lay a layer of soil, the water will wash out the stain and the paint will turn dark, its brightness will disappear. The soil prevents this. 
Here's what happened - it could already be left in this form! What could be more beautiful than the warmth of natural wood. 
But let's continue! For the next layer, we will need acrylic paint and bristle brushes, as well as sandpaper. The whole principle of coloring lies in the cycle of actions "paint - skin", these actions must be repeated until you like the result. By adding new shades close to the previous ones, the color can be made more complex and voluminous, achieving the feeling that the board has been painted several times over the years and the lower layers of paint are visible through the rubbed places in the upper layers.
I advise you to choose for painting the color that is present in your interior as the main or additional one (depending on what background this element will subsequently be placed on). This color needs to be broken down into two or three tones (the color present in the interior and two colors that are lighter and darker in tone than the first), you can pick up and subsequently perform a couple of bright strokes. It is better to apply the lightest shade first. Acrylic paint, although opaque, but in some places a thin layer of paint will still shine through. And a color put on white or light paint will look brighter than the same color put on a dark base. Thus, by applying a light shade first, we prepare the basis for a bright and saturated second and subsequent layers. A little about acrylic paints: these are water-based paints that are very easy to work with. They are odorless, dry within an hour, depending on the thickness of the layer, which allows you to work with them without interruption. They have bright saturated shades in palettes different manufacturers, which can also be mixed with each other to obtain any shades. Cured paint can be thinned with water. Brushes should be washed immediately after use. running water. If the paint dries on the brush, it will not wash off. You can choose acrylic paints from any manufacturer, but it is best to take artistic acrylic - it has a dense consistency and is well applied to the surface. Interior paints that can be tinted are also suitable. I do not advise using cheap acrylic from stationery stores for children's creativity, it often comes across slippery and rolls off the surface, it is absolutely impossible to work with it. I have in my arsenal acrylic paints from Maimeri Acrilico and art acrylic "Ladoga" and Gamma. A light blue shade is already in the Maimeri Acrilico palette, it suits me quite well, I will start with it. 
For work, I take a bristle brush with a hard bristle. It is important not to wet the brush in water before work, otherwise the bristles will become soft and will repeat any bend on the surface, when it is important for me to keep the darker, original color in the recesses of the relief. When painting the relief, hold the brush perpendicular to the stroke (as in the photo), in this case, individual bristles will not fall into the recesses and, accordingly, paint them. The paint should be thick, if it is fresh, then it is definitely not required to dilute it with water. Squeeze out required amount paint on the palette, if necessary, mix several colors to get the desired shade. The brush should not have a lot of paint, it should be semi-dry. When applying paint, do not press hard on the brush, strokes should be done with light movements, lightly touching the surface with the bristles.
1st side of the board: 
2nd side of the board: 
Add acrylic colors as desired. We skin-paint as much as the soul and your taste require: 
A few strokes of white: 
After that, I decide enough is enough. In conclusion, the board must be varnished - preferably also acrylic. They are matte, semi-matte and glossy, they are sold both in art stores in small volumes, as well as in construction stores in liters. Acrylic varnishes do not change the shades of the base, they also dry quickly and are odorless. I usually choose matte or semi-matte polish.
After the varnish has dried, you will have to decide the most complex issue: which side will be the front. You can buy handles that are easy to screw on the side of the board, and not through it, then you can turn the board over according to your mood. In my version, through fastening, so you have to think hard about the choice of the front side. 
What could be better than breakfast in bed on a Saturday morning ahead of New Year holidays? Or hot chocolate, a warm blanket, your favorite book in the evening, when snow is quietly falling outside the window? Find time to relax, and we will help you prepare for it. To make your stay enjoyable and protect you from tipping over and liquids on a blanket or bed, these irreplaceable assistants- beautiful trays, and we will show you how to make such trays with your own hands.
1. Mosaic Tray
2
You will need: Tray, ready-to-use tile adhesive, tile grout, washcloth, spatula, colorful glass pieces.
Instruction: Apply a thin layer of tile adhesive to the bottom of the tray, apply the adhesive in batches as it dries quickly. Lay the pieces of glass on the glue, pressing them lightly and alternating colors. Apply the grout over the mosaic so that all the cracks are filled, then use a washcloth to remove excess grout from the surface of the mosaic.
2
2. New clothes for a tray
1
You will need: wooden tray, wood paint, decorative paper, mod podge decoupage glue, brush, ruler, scissors.
Instruction: Paint the tray in the color of your choice, apply two coats of paint and let dry. Measure the inside of the tray and cut out decorative paper the right size. Apply a layer of decoupage glue to the bottom of the tray and glue decorative paper (you can use leftover wallpaper). Apply a second layer of glue on top of the paper and, if desired, add other accessories - ribbons, rhinestones, pebbles. For better anchoring, apply one or two more layers of glue.
1
3. Tray with a zigzag
You will need: wooden tray, paper, adhesive tape with a metallic sheen and scissors.
Instruction: Glue the paper to the bottom of the tray (you can choose any color of paper). Using duct tape, make zigzags, placing the strips of tape at the desired angle. If you can't find duct tape desired color, after you stick the strips, apply paint to the areas between the strips, and remove the adhesive tapes after the paint dries.
4. Slate tray
3
You will need: glass or ceramic tray, slate paint, paint strips, brush
Instruction: Use duct tape around the edges of the tray to keep the paint off. Apply two coats of slate paint to the bottom of the tray with a brush, allowing each coat to dry. After a day, you need to put the tray in the oven and “bake” the tray. Turn off the oven and do not remove the tray from it until it has completely cooled down.
Source homedit.com
