Soldering stand third hand. An irreplaceable helper for those who like to solder: "Third hand Third hand with your own hands
Device for mounting radio circuits
In the fixture, the clamps are fixed to a massive post with a screw. One of the legs of the clamp fits into the groove of the rack and is pressed with a screw through the washer, and the second leg is free and allows you to clamp the parts.
Such a fastening allows the clamp to be rotated or moved along the groove, while the part remains clamped in the jaws. It becomes possible to remove an unfinished product from the stand, put it aside without unclamping the clamp, install another clamp with a new product, and return to the first one at any time. Several works can be done in parallel on one device. There would be clamps.
Two clamps can be installed in the device, which is sometimes necessary. A fourth hand appears, as it were. Comfortable.
Buying clamps is not a problem. It is impossible to name the address, since the Internet is literally inundated with offers. Prices from 100 rubles. There are up to a thousand, but the latter, most likely, with carbide sponges and for our purpose they are not needed.
It is well known to any radio amateur that, as a rule, two hands are missing during radio installation. You hold a soldering iron in one hand, tweezers in the other, and a third hand is also required to hold the board properly. Of course, you can solder without tweezers, but this is risky, the tweezers serve as a heat sink, without it, you can easily overheat the radio component. In the simplest case, the holder - a "third hand" for holding small boards - is just a crocodile clip on some base.
To hold small parts, a similar design is specially produced by the industry.
A crossbar with two crocodile clips is hinged on a small cast-iron base.
Thanks to the hinges, the structure can be adapted to a wide variety of configurations.
And to perform work with small details the third hand holder has a magnifying glass.
The design is really very useful when working with small printed circuit boards, wires, individual radioelements,. If you don’t have it yet, I advise you to buy it. But the small mass of the base leads to easy overturning of the structure, so that it will not work to hold relatively heavy parts with it. Unless you screw a more massive piece of metal as a base. Review prepared Denev.
In the past, I have used third-hand clamps purchased from electronics stores and have been dissatisfied with the ease of use. The clamps did not always reach the places where they were supposed to fix the parts, or it took too long to install them in the right position. I also needed the ability to hold small PCBs, and the alligator clip is not always handy for getting the job done.
I had previously dealt with modular cooling hoses used to supply coolant to machine tools and decided they could be used for my purposes. Various nozzles and hose segments were ordered from the online store and experimenting with them began! The result is described below and although there is still room for improvement, the design has been in service for 3-4 years. 
The "hands" of the clamp can be installed in any position, while they will not move, and the fixation of the part will be reliable. Another nice feature is that you can make all kinds of adaptations for the convenience of working with objects of a wide range of shapes and sizes. On the this moment I have a holder printed circuit boards, clip, LCD mount and exhaust fan to keep out harmful vapors when soldering.
All it takes to make a basic third-hand version is a few simple hand tools, a pair of taps for tapping, a drill and drills. If you already have the tools, then creating a structure will cost you a very small amount.
The first step is to collect everything we need together. 
Tools:
- Drill or drilling machine (a machine is preferred, although a hand drill will work as well)
- Drill 9.5mm
- Tap 3mm (6-32)
- Tap 8,5mm (1 / 8-27 NPT)
- Tap holder
- Ruler
- Kern
Be sure to use safety glasses!
Materials:
- The foundation. I used a block of aluminum with dimensions of 14.5x6.5x1.5 cm as a base. The aluminum is heavy enough to make the base stable and easy to cut into threads. You can use whatever you want. The only condition is a thickness of at least 1.5 cm and the possibility of threading in drilled holes(plastic, wood, MDF, steel). The lighter the material, the larger the base must be in order to remain stable. If the material is too soft, the threads will wear out quickly and the grippers will simply not hold.
- Arms. They are made from flexible modular hoses and attachments used on machine tools to supply lubricant and coolant. I bought a set of 30cm hose and various attachments and adapters from the online store. I recommend buying a couple of these kits and additional attachments - you will have enough parts to assemble four arms. For each of them you will need:
- Adapter with thread 1/8 NPT (1pc)
- Hose (10-12cm)
- Nozzle for a 3mm hose, at an angle of 90 ° (1pc)
You may need to purchase special pliers to assemble modular tubing. Connecting them together takes effort, although I did without them.
- Grips. Each of them consists of a banana connector screwed into a hose nozzle and a crocodile. I chose the flexible banana connectors because they have 6-32 threads so they can be screwed into the hose nozzle. Crocodile clips are 5cm in size.
Once you've selected the base material, you need to cut it out if you haven't already. As stated above, I used an aluminum block. 
Now you need to mark the location of the holes for each of the hands. In the example, I made three hands. The hole pattern is not strictly defined, and the hands must be close enough to connect and symmetrically to make the structure look neat. The location of the holes will also depend on the shape and size of the base. Note that the triangular base will be good decision if you are going to use three hands in the design. 
Use a center punch to mark the center of each hole.
I usually start with a smaller drill and then finish with a 9.5mm drill. Make sure the material is drilled through and the hole can be tapped. The axis of the hole must be perpendicular to the surface of the base so that the hose adapter screwed into it is flat. Accuracy in this can be achieved and hand drill but using drilling machine will make the task easier. 
Thread the hand holes using a 1 / 8-27 NPT tap. Remember that the threaded section on the adapter is tapered, so you need to cut the threads deep enough for the arm to screw in completely. But, at the same time, cutting the thread too deeply, you will get a loose adapter, which can break the thread. Remember that the tap must also be held perpendicular to the base surface.
I did not have a large enough 1 / 8-27 NPT tap holder and had to use a chuck I bought for this. If you chose metal for the base of the third hand, use a thread-cutting lubricant.
Now that the holes have been drilled and threaded, it's time to sand the surface and round the corners of the base using sandpaper. I started with P80 grit, then used P220 paper, and finished with Scotch Bright, which gives a nice matte finish.
Remove the plastic black and red covering from the bananas and set aside. We only need metal parts. 
In the hose nozzle at an angle of 90 °, tap the threads with a 6-32 tap. The threads on the banana are actually not exactly the same, but they are similar enough and will provide a tight connection. 
With the banana screwed into the hose nozzle, simply slide the crocodile over it. Alligator clips work well, but they tend to twist on the axis when the part is held for a long time or when the part is heavy enough. Let's see how you can fix this.
The reason lies in the fact that the "crocodiles" expand slightly after they are installed in place. You can see in the image that it has split slightly.
I have found two methods to fix this problem. You can, of course, skip this step, but it will make it much easier for you to work with the "third hand" clamp in the future. 
- Metal tube. I picked up a stainless steel tube of a suitable diameter (mine was 5mm), and then cut off several sections of 1cm long. Putting them on the place where the "crocodiles" are attached to the hand, I lightly tapped them with a hammer, fixing the clamps in this way. The best decision in my opinion.
- Wire wrapping. I found a few pieces of thin and hard wire, wrapped the crocodile attachment points and soldered them. This is the easiest and cheapest way to solve the problem.
If you bought a pliers for assembling modular hoses, the assembly process will be easier. I didn't buy, but I found a fairly easy method to connect them. 
Put on a screwdriver suitable size those elements of the hose that you want to connect together. Thus, they will all align, and this will easily allow you to dock them together, putting them on top of each other.
Although the photo shows a hand that includes 10 segments, I found out empirically that 7 segments give a more comfortable arm length to work. Of course, these are my preferences and you can use them as much as you like.
Now all you have to do is screw your hands into the base, and your homemade "third hand" is done! In the next part I will tell you about some of the devices made in order to expand the functionality of this helper clip.
For a long time I looked closely at this device, but could not bring myself to buy. It seemed too expensive, for such a fit for a poor Belarusian. Moreover, I do not solder so often. But after I finally got my caliber soldering iron, it was decided to stock up on a lot of pribludes for soldering. The long-desired so-called "third hand" also made it to this list.
We receive the parcel, unpack it and see such a constructor:
Actually, what is available here:
Illuminated plastic lens
Crocodiles with lambs
Bed (with a black coating that I do not understand), in which you can put napkins for cleaning the soldering iron tip
Soldering iron holder and connecting rod set
Let's take a closer look at the lens.
In the lower part, at the base, there are two LEDs, the purpose of which is to illuminate the soldered object.
On top there is a compartment for three AAA batteries, equipped with a tape for easier removal. On the side is a slider for turning on the backlight.
The lens size is impressive. She's big. I would even say huge, against the background of the main dimensions.
We insert the batteries by intertwining them with tape.
Turn on the backlight. In general, it shines well.
We proceed to further assembly. The holder is in the bed and fixed with a locking screw.
The most difficult thing was to assemble a barbell with crocodiles. It was necessary to simultaneously fix two hinges between the plates. They constantly strove to jump out.
Then everything is much easier. We insert a vertical bar into the frame and hang a lens and a bar with crocodiles on it.
Assembled
After the soldering iron was installed in its rightful place, some peculiarity of the holder came to light. It turned out to be too big for a soldering iron in diameter and it just fell through, trying to bury itself in the bed. What is not good.
You can fight this business in two ways: either put the soldering iron as shown below in the photo; or make some kind of modernization. Because, each time inserting the soldering iron into the holder and at the same time trying to fix it somehow not comme il faut. Moreover, if you then touch the cord with something, then it will clearly fall into the position, as in the photo above. 
Modernization by compressing the spring at the end, in order to reduce the diameter, is immediately eliminated. Not only is the last turn soldered to the rack, but it is also soldered to the previous turn. In general, in the future, you will have to somehow finish.
Another bad feature of this creation is poor stability. This is due primarily to the large size of the lens, and as a consequence, with its decent weight. Therefore, if you turn the lens to the side, then the whole structure, in obedience to the teachings of Archimedes, strives to fall to one side. Something like this.
Here either apply the next "doping", increasing the area or weight of the bed, or try during work to ensure that nothing outweighs anywhere. Or remove the lens altogether if it is not needed at the moment. Fortunately, it takes two or three seconds. I have not even decided yet whether I will eliminate this deficiency, or it does not bother me so much.
Crocodile springs are quite tight. They keep them thoroughly. For demonstration, I clamped a knife in one of them in the middle of the blade. And nothing, the crocodile did just fine.
Summarize. I liked the subject of the review. I don’t regret buying. Despite a couple of shortcomings: the large diameter of the holder for the soldering iron and low stability. The workmanship suits me. On the old job we had a "third hand" in the laboratory, and so it is, compared to the monitored one, just slag. Perhaps the disadvantages include the price. Not that much, but not cheap either, especially considering the current state of affairs in the economy. If you wander through the vastness of Chinese online stores, you can find many variations of such a device. With two lenses, backlit gooseneck, battery powered, mains powered and more. Some are slightly cheaper, others are slightly more expensive. By the way, offline, at least in our Minsk, you can find a similar product at a comparable price, or at an exorbitant price. To be honest, I don't even remember why I chose this particular model.
Thank you all for your attention.
Often, when soldering small circuits or individual elements, there are not enough hands to simultaneously hold the wiring or a circuit element, solder, a soldering iron, sometimes a flashlight or a magnifying glass, so the circuit also strives to run away somewhere when soldering. In such situations, the Third Hand comes to the rescue. Many people make such adaptations on their own to fit their needs.
I decided to make such a device without going too far beyond the scope of its application. Rather, making it versatile and with an aesthetic appearance.
Video recording step by step assembly and a test fixture for review.
Materials and tools
1.2 crocodiles with insulation;
2. Details from an old compass;
3. The bottom of the aluminum can;
4. Base for stability made of plastic, wood or metal;
5. 3 flexible legs “Goosenecks”, 20cm each;
6. Heat shrinkage 3mm and 5mm;
7. Insulating tape;
8. Hot melt glue;
9. Superglue.
From tools:
1. Pliers;
2. Thermal gun;
3. Lighter;
4. Scissors.
Making a third hand
We need 3 flexible Goosenecks legs of 20cm each. I took them from a USB flashlight and USB fan bought in a fixed price list for 60 rubles. The USB flashlight has a flexible leg of 39 cm, it can be cut in half by biting with pliers or wire cutters to get 2 x 19 cm.
The USB fan has a 23 cm leg, so we will leave it.
Now you need to find a suitable base for the stability of the structure. I have a plastic case from a quartz table clock lying around, I will use it.
It is better to take something heavier, depending on your needs. I will not attach large boards from tablets and heavy objects there, so a plastic one will do.
We make 3 holes at the base for flexible legs.
Since hot glue does not adhere well to metal, we will use electrical tape. We wrap the ends of the flexible legs with electrical tape, which will be fixed at the base. This will then allow the flexible legs to be well fixed at the base.
We take 2 crocodiles and put a 3 mm heat shrink on the teeth, as shown in the photo. This is so that metal prongs do not damage the elements on the boards, the winding of wires and do not leave marks on objects that will be fixed by crocodiles.
Glue the crocodile to the end of the flexible leg with super glue. We do not regret the glue) After the glue dries, we put on a 5 mm heat shrink (it will give a good fixation of the crocodile with a flexible leg) as shown in the photo. And we repeat the same with the second leg and the crocodile.
From the old compass we get such a thing with a fixing bolt and nut.
Glue the fixing bolt with super glue inside the flexible leg (it just goes there). Do not regret glue) This will be a universal leg that can be customized and applied to your needs. In my case, there will be an additional clip for wiring or light bulbs and a clip (where the lead is inserted) for the solder wire.
We insert the resulting flexible legs onto the base into the prepared holes, glue with super glue. After the super glue has dried, fix it abundantly with hot melt glue.
You can make 4 legs with hot melt glue, for better stability and anti-slip on the table surface.
I thought about how to take the empty space on the base and decided to make a place for small things necessary for soldering or for pushpins, paper clips, or something else.
The bottom of the aluminum can fit very well. It is necessary to trim the edges, round off the corners and fix with hot melt glue on the base.
Can be used for cargo (for example, a hefty nut)), if I still cling to large boards or heavy objects)
That's all done.
In the case of "The Third Hand" has shown itself not bad. Copes with the task. Holds the circuit well, does not slip. In the photo, the light bulb is weak (there was no other), you can cling and more powerful. The adjustment is convenient, the hot melt glue holds the base of the legs well.
Many people cling to lenses and fans. I refused this. Sometimes it takes up a lot of table space when not in use.
This design and appearance allows you to leave the fixture on the desktop and use it for other purposes. With the help of a universal flexible leg, you can change the design and add the necessary elements (the same fan, magnifying glass, flashlight, another crocodile, diagram drawing) depending on the purpose of use.
By the way, the remaining fan can also be used. In a couple of minutes, making a desktop battery out of it.
As planned, it can be used for more than just soldering.
For example, cling notes with important tasks for the day or a card so as not to forget.
Even the phone holds confidently. I did not plan for this purpose) Nice addition)
I have no doubt that in the process of using I will find more than one application for this device.
