How to properly install a plastic window sill with your own hands. Installation of a plastic window sill on pvc windows

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 2 minutes

The installation of the window sill usually completes the installation of the window. It is impossible to exclude this element from the window structure. Firstly, it is a decorative element. Agree that a window opening without a window sill will look, to put it mildly, ridiculous. Secondly, this additional element also performs a protective function, taking on temperature drops and mechanical loads. The replacement of old windows with more practical PVC constructions is carried out by specialists. Usually, the range of services provided includes installation of a window sill and. However, installing a plastic window sill with your own hands is not particularly difficult, so you can save money by doing the installation yourself. Let's clarify right away that this procedure is carried out only after replacing the window. Consider all stages of installation work, including sizing.

Preparation

The installation procedure begins with dismantling the old structure. This is a very important nuance: PVC structures are never installed with wooden frames. If you ordered the installation of a window from a specialized company, then this step will be performed by the installers. Experts dismantle old frames and. You just have to prepare the window opening. To do this, it is necessary to clean the lower part of the window opening from the remnants of construction debris, remove the remnants of the plaster and make grooves in the side walls. This is done to securely fix the plastic structure.

Please note that it is not always advisable to make grooves. Usually, this procedure is performed if the width of the panel will go beyond the window opening.

Then you need to foam all the cracks that remained after installing the window, level the bottom of the window opening and prime the surface. These precautions will help to exclude drafts, respectively, to keep warm in the apartment.

Measurements

It will not be possible to purchase a product of suitable dimensions: the window sills are adjusted individually according to the parameters of the window opening. Therefore, you will have to cut the plastic panel yourself. It is not difficult to fit the window sill with your own hands to the size of the window: the plastic can be easily processed and cut with any sharp tool. At this stage, it is important to correctly calculate the length and width of the structure.

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First, we measure the width of the window opening. To the resulting figure, you need to add 1.5-2 centimeters on each side. Usually the edges are retracted into grooves or covered with slopes. The width of the window sill depends on your desire. If the structure does not go beyond the walls, then 2 centimeters must be added to the width of the window opening: this part will go under the window. If you plan to install a protruding structure, then ideally the window sill should reach the middle of the heating battery.

It is highly discouraged to close the heating system. Warm air will not rise to the windows; as a result, condensation and ice will form in winter. Accordingly, the lifespan of PVC windows will be significantly reduced. If you nevertheless decide to close the batteries completely, you need to make ventilation holes in the windowsill.

The thickness of the window sill does not play a special role: this element does not have high mechanical loads. The exception is the situation when the PVC panel is installed on the whole wall, combining two windows. In this case, the thickness of the window sill should have a maximum value of 22 millimeters. Remember to fit the end caps to the sill.

Installation process

How to install a window sill correctly? It is enough to take a responsible approach to the installation procedure and follow the instructions given. Here is a step-by-step installation diagram:

The dimensions of the structure have already been adjusted to the parameters of the window opening. To make sure that the calculations are correct, the window sill is installed in place. If the panel does not fit, you need to remove the element and clean the end and front sides with a knife.
Please note that window sills are not placed on a concrete or brick base. Therefore, the installation of the panel involves the use of wooden or plastic supports. The recommended width of such substrates is at least 50 millimeters, the length is less than the panel width. The thickness of the supports is selected individually, the main thing is that the window sill clearly fits into the groove under the window. It is worth noting that the supports are installed only on a leveled surface in order to exclude distortions of the structure. The distance between such substrates is 40-50 centimeters. You can check the correct installation of the supports by cutting the window sill: the piece should fit snugly into the groove between the support and the bottom of the window.

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The voids between the supports are usually removed. To do this, use polyurethane foam or mineral wool. In the second case, the substrates must firmly adhere to the base of the window opening, therefore, the supports are fixed with silicone glue. It is recommended to degrease the surface before using this material.
We proceed to the installation of the PVC structure. Before starting work, you need to remove the protective film from the window side and install the end caps. Then we put the window sill in place.

Please note that the element should fit into the groove tightly enough, but it is not necessary to exert excessive force. A small gap (about 5 millimeters) should be left on the sides of the structure, this is a precaution that will help prevent deformation of the window sill. For this, substrates of appropriate thickness are installed from the sides. These beacons then need to be removed, and the gaps should be sealed with sealant.

Align the panel horizontally with light taps. We check the position of the window sill by level.

The installation is almost complete. Now you need to fill in the free space under the window. Please note that the polyurethane foam increases in volume during the drying process, so you need to install special spacers. If this is not done, the skew of the structure and subsequent replacement will follow. The spacers are made from wooden blocks, one is installed in the center and two on the sides. The retainers are removed after the foam has completely solidified (about a day), the excess of which is removed with a knife.

Then the slopes are installed and the remaining gaps are closed. For this, a sealant is usually used. The edges of the window sill adjacent to the walls are covered with mounting tape.
After completing all installation work, remove the protective film from the window sill.

Don't repeat mistakes

Remember: a violation of the installation technology will invariably entail the replacement of the window sill.

Therefore, here are some useful tips to help you avoid unpleasant consequences:

Installation is carried out immediately after replacing the window. If you first put the slopes and plaster the walls, the risk of damage to the surfaces increases. Accordingly, all the work done will go down the drain.
Wide and long panels must be additionally secured. This is usually done if the window sill exceeds the width of the window space by a third. Brackets are used for fastening.
Maintain the size carefully and be sure to use a building level.
For better adhesion of surfaces, the window opening must be moistened with water.
Do not use too much foam. When foaming the window sill, it is recommended to leave small gaps.

Today we will describe all the technological aspects of fixing and sealing plastic window sills for various installation options. When completing the installation process of PVC windows, the same close attention is required as when fixing the frame, and when forming foam seams.

Requirements for the preparation of the opening

Although the installation of the window sill is carried out at the final stage, the possibility of correct installation depends on timely preparation. There is no universal recipe, because the material and structure of the walls can be completely different, moreover, the window sill itself can have different purposes. However, there are a number of nuances that should be considered in advance.

The most important requirement is the quality of preparation of the lower edge of the opening. Ideally, preparatory plastering is carried out, due to which a flat horizontal plane is formed under the frame, which serves as a base for the subsequent alignment of the window and a support for the window sill. It is important to remember that the window sill never rests directly on the prepared plane. The presence of a warm seam helps to avoid freezing and the formation of condensation caused by it in the lower junction.

We'll have to work hard on the side edges of the opening. The classic installation method involves cutting the ends of the window sill into the slopes, but the depth of this very cut is practically not regulated by anything. Construction practice shows that the optimal depth of overlapping a window sill with a slope is 30-50 mm. However, if the slope is made with plastic panels, the window sill should protrude 15-20 mm beyond the framing decorative profile. Thus, on the side faces, it is necessary to cut two niches along the level of the upper edge of the mounting groove.

Correct installation of the window sill is impossible without observing the correct installation sequence. Please note that first, the frame is fixed and the external waterproofing is glued, then the glass unit is installed in place and foam seams are formed. At this stage, the lower plane of the opening must be leveled, undercuts are made in the corners, all surfaces are dust-free and primed, an internal sealing tape is glued. Only after meeting these requirements is it possible to install a window sill. The finishing of the slopes is carried out at the final stage.

Window sill position and function options

Installation of the window sill is carried out with some specific differences depending on the purpose of this structural element. There are three most common options:

The sill simply forms the lower abutment node.
The window sill will be used to install flowerpots and other items.
The window sill is designed for an operating load of over 30 kg / running. m.

In almost all cases described, the window sill also overlaps the heating device located under the window. If there is none, the window sill has almost zero overhang, that is, it protrudes above the wall plane exclusively by the thickness of the visor. Otherwise, the window sill should completely cover the heating device with an overlap of about 10-15 mm.

If the window sill protrudes above the wall plane by more than 2/3 of its own width, its installation is carried out in the same way as with increased operational loads. This method consists in placing at least 2 support brackets under the window sill plate. on rm. m. For fastening these brackets on the rear side of the window sill, longitudinal dovetail grooves are provided. The reverse side of the brackets is attached to the wall with plastic dowels, while they are hidden in undercuts with a depth of 20-30 mm, which are subsequently walled up. Fastening of the window sill brackets to the wall is carried out at the final stage of installation after landing on the mounting foam. In frame buildings, for the purpose of strengthening, the lower edge of the opening can be formed by a wider board, which is supported from below by slopes, however, the thickness of the board should not exceed the protrusion of the visor above the back plane of the window sill.

Also, a window sill can have one or both open ends, for example, when decorating parapets of panoramic windows or balcony blocks. In this case, it is highly desirable that the open corner is held by at least one bracket, which will prevent the window sill from blowing upwards. To mask the cut edge, you will need an end cap for the entire depth of the window sill.

Marking and cropping

Before proceeding with the fastening of the window sill, it must be “driven into size” in accordance with the size of the opening and the frame, as well as taking into account the desired size of the protrusion. The window sill is trimmed on three sides - two lateral and one rear, facing the inside of the installation groove. Trimming is most conveniently done with an electric jigsaw, and in its absence - with a hand hacksaw with a fine tooth.

The first thing to do is trim the back. If the window is set correctly and the width of the slopes at the bottom on both sides is the same, you can skip this step. Otherwise, longitudinal trimming helps to level the installation flaws and to ensure that on both sides the window sill protrudes above the wall plane by an equal amount. Please note that the plastic window sill has a honeycomb structure, which can complicate trimming if a vertical lintel falls on the cutting line. In such cases, it is recommended to slightly increase the ledge of the window sill.

The ends are trimmed in such a way that the total length of the sill is equal to the sum of the length of the visible part of the frame, sunrises and side protrusions. To facilitate installation, the rear corners can be cut obliquely so that at the edges of the window sill goes into the body of the slope at least 20 mm and about 30-50 mm in the places of the side protrusions. When the trimming is completed, decorative plugs need to be glued to the ends of the window sill, shortening them if necessary. Before installing on the rear edge of the window sill, you need to make two marks, the distance between which is equal to the width of the visible part of the frame, while the sides should remain equal symmetrical indents. Thanks to such markings, you can easily align the sill horizontally.

Installation of the window sill

Before fixing the window sill, you need to select the support pads, which are usually used as sets of mounting wedges glued together to avoid displacement. The pads are placed on the lower plane of the opening with an indent of 25-30 mm from the leading edge. The thickness of the lining is selected in such a way that the window sill has a slight slope towards the room of the order of 1-1.5 °. The installation spacing of the linings should not be less than 60 cm for window sills with a purely decorative function and not less than 40 cm with increased operational loads.

When everything is ready, the window sill is installed on the lining and slides in with the rear edge until it stops in the installation groove. You can slightly widen the gap in this assembly and fill it with plastic sealant, removing the excess after the window sill is crushed into the groove. Next, you need to pick up a wide board and place it on top of the window sill so that the longitudinal axis is located strictly along the line of installation of the lining. After that, an oppression of the order of 15-20 kg per linear meter is installed on the board. In this case, the load must be placed with a slight offset towards you, ensuring that the rear part of the window sill is tightly pressed against the edge of the installation groove without any gap.

When positioning is completed, foam is injected into the gap between the window sill and the opening. Previously, it will not be superfluous to irrigate the cavity with water from a spray bottle, which will contribute to more active polymerization. First, the deepest part of the gap is foamed, which is filled to 100%, so that when expanding, the foam presses the board tightly to the frame. After that, you need to wait until the filler has completely expanded and partially polymerized, and then check the correct installation and the absence of shifts. If everything is in order, foam will fill the entire remaining space by about 50-70% of the volume, taking into account further active expansion. It is necessary to fill the gap in such a way that, after increasing in volume, the foam fills the space between the linings, but does not protrude beyond them, thus forming a groove about 30 mm deep for further embedding.

Sealing gaps

To preserve the integral look of the finish, the gaps under the window sill, notches in the slopes and the attachment points for the brackets must be repaired, bringing the adjacent sections of the wall into a common plane. Polyurethane foam is poorly suited for this, in monolithic buildings it is better to use ordinary cement mortar, in frame buildings - fill the voids with fragments of expanded polystyrene or mineral wool, and then carefully "bypass" the window sill with finishing material.

It is best to fill in the gaps at a stage when preparations for interior decoration have not yet been carried out. In this way, the overlap of the filling with a general preparatory and decorative layer is achieved, which will reduce the likelihood of cracks and irregularities. Particular attention should be paid to the gap under the windowsill. Although it is almost never seen, there is almost always a thin gap between the plastic and the body of the wall. At this point, it is recommended to select a shallow groove of about 5 mm with a thin scraper, and then fill it with a thin strip of plastic sealant.

The final stage of window installation is the installation of the window sill. This process is ridiculously simple, nevertheless, it is quite easy to make a mistake. In our instructions, we will show by examples how to properly organize the junction of the window sill to the window frame, carry out the seal and exclude freezing of the lower zone.

Selection of the type and size of the window sill

Despite the fact that the products of most manufacturers of additional components for PVC windows are well unified, there are several types of plastic window sills. However, perhaps you will prefer natural wood, artificial stone window sills or veneered countertops? We will also consider such options, however, remember that often the choice of a particular type of product is dictated not by a whim, but by a clear necessity.

As an example, consider two types of plastic window sills - with and without an edge at the back. On the one hand, a window sill without an edge allows you to freely vary its depth and even tolerates oblique undercuts, which can correct the flaws in the installation of windows. However, in this case, fastening from the outside through the support profile may be required, but it is not available in all windows and it is not always convenient to dismantle the external ebb for fastening. The rest of the plastic window sills are almost identical with the exception of one sign - thickness. The larger it is, the, accordingly, the higher the strength of the window sill and its more significant protrusion above the wall plane is allowed.

Plastic window sills are usually sufficient to meet most needs, however the benefits of other materials are worth considering. Basically, laminated chipboard and artificial stone slabs are used wherever it is necessary to add a special flavor to the color. "Non-plastic" window sills have no other advantages - they are afraid of moisture, dirt and ultraviolet radiation. However, one caveat still remains: if it is necessary to arrange a one-piece window sill for several windows, as is the case with the glazing of a bay window, a continuous curved contour can be created only with the help of a window sill-table top.

As for the sizes, everything is simple and obvious with them. The length of the profile should be at least 6 cm longer than the distance between the slopes at the widest part. The depth should provide a protrusion above the wall plane of at least 30 mm, and if a radiator is located under the window, “cover” it with a margin of 5-10 mm.

Site preparation

The opening needs to be prepared in a certain way for the installation of the window sill, and for each individual installation method, the preparation will have some differences. Let's start with what is the same in all versions: we apply a square to the uprights, setting the edge along the lower edge of the frame profile, and draw two horizontal lines on the slopes that delimit the undercut. Along the lines, you need to make undercuts with a grinder and a diamond disk to a depth of about 10-15 mm, if there is a plaster corner at the corner of the slope, it should be cut completely. Further, with a chisel or an old chisel in the slopes, pockets with a depth of about 30-50 mm are selected. It is possible more, but less than 30 mm is not worth it, otherwise the abutment of the side plugs with the slope angle will be incorrect. If the slopes will be sheathed with panels, the ledge of the sill behind the slope must correspond to the width of the closing corner profile.

If, instead of a light plastic profile, a heavy tabletop will be installed, you need to prepare the lower plane of the window opening. First, a plaster beacon is installed under the side of the frame close to the support profile on the bumps of the cement mortar. The distance between the edge of the lighthouse and the window frame must exactly match the thickness of the window sill-table top. Along the lighthouse, a flat horizontal edge of the opening is displayed with cement mortar, on which the window sill will rest, it is advisable to strengthen the inner corner with a plaster corner.

Do not be surprised, but it also happens that the window is installed without a support profile. If, in this case, a window sill with a thickness of 18 mm or more is installed without a trailing edge, it is necessary to increase the thickness of the lower foam seam at least to the middle of the thickness of the used window sill profile. Also, in the lower part of the slope, a series of vertical notches are made in the wall, 30 mm wide, 20 mm deep and about 120-150 mm high. Notches must be made in increments not exceeding 80 cm and at least two pieces per window sill.

Sill mount

Unlike common practice, the window sill does not need to be fastened through the frame profile with self-tapping screws. In some cases, this will only do harm: metal rods serve as excellent cold bridges.

The most correct installation scheme is ridiculously simple: the window sill rests on the support profile, after which incompressible pads are installed under it, for example, mounting wedges, 2/3 of the total depth retreating from the front edge. A small protrusion of the frame above the support profile allows you to adjust the extension of the window sill above the plane of the wall, if the window frame is unrolled for some reason. With this method of installation, the mounting foam firmly binds the window sill to the opening, while tightly filling the entire space from below.

Fastening of a window sill without a support profile is carried out at the expense of the rear edge, which fits snugly into the installation groove in the lower part of the frame. It is only important to clear the foam seam a little and cut off the side on the sides, otherwise you will have to perform a deeper cutting of the slopes. Window sills of increased thickness without a mounting rim have a dovetail-type longitudinal groove on the rear part. Light mounting plates are inserted into this groove, which are used for preliminary alignment of windows. For the correct installation of the window sill under its rear part, props are poured with wedges, then the window sill is put in place, the plates are bent and fastened deep into the notches in the wall, which ensures a tight pressing of the profile end to the frame.

Sealing the bottom zone

The main trick when installing a window sill is the correct formation of the foam seam under it. The only exceptions are window sills, tabletops, which are attached to the prepared plane of the opening using liquid nails.

In general, for a correct installation, a number of conditions must be met:

The lower shelf of the opening was cut down with a slight bevel towards itself, dust-free and moistened with water.
Under the window sill, incompressible linings are laid, when you press on the front edge of the profile, it is tightly pressed to the bottom of the frame and remains strictly horizontal.
From above, the sill is pre-loaded with a weight of about 20 kg per meter, the oppression is distributed along the entire length using a board.
On the sides, the sill rests on the upper plane against the notches on the slopes.

Then everything happens very simply. Polyurethane foam of the appropriate climatic regime fills the entire space between the window sill and the shelf of the opening, with the exception of the areas beyond the slope line. Blow out the foam at low pressure, using an extension tube to fill the narrowest areas at the rear near the frame. After blowing out the foam, the window sill should remain loaded until the foam polymerization is complete - about 1-1.5 hours.

Sealing cracks in walls and slopes

After the foam has completely hardened, its excess must be cut off. If the foam is squeezed out into the area behind the line of the slopes, it must be dug out to a depth of at least 20 mm. Under the window, the foam is selected with a chisel or a staple to a depth of about 10 mm. All formed cavities are wetted from the spray gun with strengthening soil.

The voids must be filled with cement mortar, to which alabaster is added in small portions to speed up the setting. After the mortar has dried, the embedment areas are rubbed against the general plane of the wall using an abrasive mesh. The gaps between the window sill and the slope must be sealed, this is the main way for cold air to enter. If subsequently it is planned to finish the slope with plastic panels, the filling of the cracks need not be leveled; in this case, the sealing can be carried out using polyurethane foam.

If the trimming was done correctly in a single line without gaps, the slopes need to be finished, painted and then filled with white acrylic sealant. If the edge of the undercut is uneven, the sealant is pumped into the depth of the gap, not reaching the surface of 5-7 mm. The remaining gap is sealed with a finishing putty.

How to avoid condensation

Condensation is a typical consequence of installation errors. It can appear both on the windowsill itself and on the glass. There is a reason in each case.

Overcooling of the window sill occurs due to the violation of the foam seam in the lower zone. The best thing to do in this case is to disassemble the ebb from the outside and scrub the remaining foam from under the frame. After cleaning, the bottom seam is re-filled with foam.

Condensation on the glass appears mainly when using single-chamber double-glazed windows with high thermal conductivity. Such windows require a continuous heat curtain from the radiators during the cold season. If the sill protrudes too much, it will block the hot air flow and the glass will not warm up properly. The problem can be solved by inserting 2-3 convection sleeves into the windowsill, which are also used to pull cables through the walls of cabinet furniture.

It's no secret that a window without a window sill looks at least ridiculous - at least some decorative "platform" under the window should be present. To date, there are three ways to decorate the bottom of a window opening: revet it with tiles underneath, install a wooden or plastic window sill. The latter, or rather its installation, will be discussed in this article, in which, together with the website, we will study in detail the question of how to install a PVC window sill with our own hands. We will pay special attention to the subtleties and nuances of this process.

Do-it-yourself PVC window sill installation photo

Do-it-yourself PVC window sill installation: preparing a window opening

In construction and repair work, preparatory work cannot be done anywhere, including when installing a PVC window sill. Here, almost everything is standard - we clean the lower part of the window opening from construction debris left after dismantling the old window sill or window, carefully prime the surface and leave it to dry.

Dismantling the old window sill photo

In addition to the standard procedures associated with cleaning the installation site of the window sill, other preparations must also be made. Rather, not preparation, but control - if you want to prevent bleeding from under the windowsill, then you should check the quality of the foaming of the window frame and, if necessary, eliminate all the shortcomings. This nuance in work especially needs to be taken into account in the case of installing a plastic window sill, which is not associated with a complete replacement of the window block.

In addition, if the slopes in the opening are already ready, it is necessary to cut their bottom so that the window sill "goes" under them. This can be done in different ways - but in all cases you need to understand that the less you injure the slope, the easier it will be to restore it later. That's it at this stage. Now you can proceed to the direct preparation of the window sill itself.

Preparatory work before installing the window sill photo

Preparing a plastic window sill for installation

This stage is also not particularly difficult - all that needs to be done here is to properly cut it and adjust it to length. Plastic is easily cut with almost any saw tool - you can use a hacksaw for wood, and, and, and a blade for metal. The best option for cutting PVC windowsill is.

The task of fitting the window sill is to properly cut it along the length - this must be done in such a way that it freely falls into place and at the same time its edges do not look out from under the slopes.

How to install a plastic window sill photo

How to install a plastic window sill: installation features

When all the preparations are completed, the new window sill is cut and the bottom of the window opening is cleaned, you can proceed to the direct installation. This process looks like this.

Installation of a plastic window sill begins with the process of installing it. To begin with, it must be inserted into place and positioned so that none of its edges peep out from under the slopes - the window sill must be inserted under the window frame.

Do-it-yourself plastic window sill installation photo

The next step is to wedge the window sill between the window opening and the window frame. For this purpose, as a rule, wooden wedges are used - they are installed along the edges of the window sill and in the middle. When installing them, you need to control the absence of a gap between the window frame and the window sill.
When the fixing of the far edge of the PVC window sill is finished, you should tackle its front edge. Between it and the window opening, it is also necessary to install linings that will provide an even horizontal level. The whole process of installing a plastic window sill with your own hands must be constantly monitored by the building level.

The role of the building level in the installation of a PVC window sill

The final stage in solving the question of how to properly install the window sill is a reliable fastening. As a rule, it is simply glued with help, which is pumped into the space between the window opening and the window sill. Everything is simple here - well shake a balloon with a polyurethane sealant heated in warm water, wind a tube on it and, inserting it as deep as possible under the windowsill, blow out the entire space with foam.

How to properly install a window sill with your own hands photo

There is one nuance here - it's not a secret for anyone that the foam, when solidified, greatly increases in volume, and during the expansion process it creates considerable pressure, which is able to lift the window sill up. To prevent this from happening, you need to put some kind of load on the windowsill, for example, about five or six bricks. But first, in order not to damage the window sill, it is better to cover it with something.

It will be possible to remove the load in 12-14 hours - although the manufacturers indicate that the complete polymerization of the polyurethane sealant occurs within 6 hours, it is better to wait a little longer. Generally speaking, the foam setting time depends on its volume - the more you inflate it under the windowsill, the longer it will harden.

Installation of a PVC window sill: final work

Well, in conclusion, a couple of practical tips for installing a window sill.

Firstly, before gluing the window sill, its back surface and the base of the bottom of the window opening must be thoroughly moistened with water. The fact is that the polymerization process of the polyurethane foam occurs faster at high humidity. In addition, it adheres better to damp surfaces. You can moisten the space under the windowsill with a spray bottle, which is used to care for flowers or to dampen the laundry when ironing.
Secondly, do not pump too much foam under the windowsill - this will not be better. The space must not be completely filled - it is better to make gaps between the stripes. So you save the sealant and prevent the sill from blowing up.

This is how the PVC window sill is installed with your own hands. Whether it is difficult or easy, judge for yourself, and also decide what to do best for you - call a specialist or try to do everything yourself.

In recent years, plastic has firmly entered our lives. It is used in various fields.

The installation and replacement technology is absolutely simple, however, if you decide to do it yourself, you need to clarify how to install a plastic window sill.

A plastic window sill is an integral part when installing a plastic window.

Today, more than ever, windows made of metal-plastic have become popular, and with them accompanying elements such as a window sill.

The final stage of installing a plastic window is.

The window sill, as a rule, is installed together with the window, and such an installation is often carried out by those specialists who were engaged in the installation of the entire window.

Tools Required for Installation

The list of basic tools that you will need for include the following:

circular saw or jigsaw;
polyurethane foam;
level;
pencil;
roulette.

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Basic installation technologies

There are several basic methods with which you can do it yourself.

The first and one of the most traditional is fixing the product with a special solution. However, this method is practically not used by modern craftsmen due to the fact that there are newer and simpler methods.

One of these most common methods is fixing on self-tapping screws. Using this method, holes are made in the frame into which all the parts are screwed.

The connection point must be treated with silicone sealant. The edge of the window sill is wound under the frame and is also fixed with self-tapping screws.

The second most popular method of installing a plastic window sill is its installation using metal spring brackets. They must be screwed to the profile using self-tapping screws. The product is installed in the groove formed between the bracket and the frame.

The third and no less popular method of installing this type of window sills is installation on special linings. This method is characterized by the absence of screws or staples.

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The main stages of installation

Preparatory stage.

When you have decided on the installation method, figured out how to properly install the plastic window sill, and have prepared all the necessary materials and tools, you can proceed with the installation.

At the preparatory stage, you need to make all the necessary measurements. This issue should be approached with all responsibility, since the strength of the structure completely depends on the correctness of the measurements. Often, with incorrect measurements, you have to completely redo all the work.

When making measurements, it should be remembered that the length of the window sill must necessarily be greater than the length of the window itself, but the width can be any. The average width of the window sill is considered to be a width that does not go beyond 8 cm.

Consider the distance to the battery, which is located under the windowsill. Leaving a very small space between them, you can disrupt the movement of air, which will negatively affect the heating of the room.

Pruning.

When all measurements are completed, you can proceed to the second stage - trimming the window sill.

This stage is relevant if the dimensions of the finished product do not correspond to the required ones, but in some cases trimming may not be necessary.

If you need to remove the excess in width, it should be done on the side that will be attached to the wall. In order not to disrupt the construction of the window sill, it is necessary to outline a straight line along which you should cut.

This line should pass behind the stiffeners at a distance of approximately 1 cm. Then the window sill will rigidly dock with the frame and will not bend inward at the junction, which will surely happen if the stiffeners are broken.

Pruning is done with a jigsaw or saw.

Installing the lining.

The lining will be laid on pre-installed bars under the windowsill, which will take on the main load from the windowsill. In order for it to be securely and firmly installed, this entire structure must fit snugly against the frame.

At the same stage, it is necessary to cut out the lower part of the slopes, and the wedges for mounting the window sill must be fixed.

The fourth stage is the direct installation of the product.

At this stage, keep in mind that the distance between the slopes should be less than the length of the window sill. It should enter the slopes with a distance of a couple of centimeters. The protrusion of the sill should not exceed 5 cm, then the air from the battery can rise to the window, which will ensure the absence of condensation.

After inserting the window sill into the slopes, it is necessary to clean and expose it. The window sill is exposed with the help of beacons with a step of 60-80 cm. When it is correctly exposed, you can fix it with polyurethane foam.

The product must be left for a couple of days so that it can dry out, after which the excess foam is cut off with a sharpened knife.

When, after treatment with foam, there are still cracks, it is necessary to additionally process them with silicone sealant.

After installing the product, plastic plugs are put on it, which are attached to special glue.