How to make a cardboard tank with your own hands. How to make a tank out of cardboard with your own hands Schemes and patterns of prefabricated wooden tank models

Hello to all glue lovers! Today we offer make paper model the legendary tank of the Soviet army during the Second World War - T-34... Do tank T-34 made of paper will be no more difficult than the models of tanks previously published: "", "".

The T-34 tank, thanks to the high combat and technical characteristics demonstrated during the tests, was adopted by the Red Army at the end of 1939. In the spring of 1940, as one of the tests, two prototypes of the T-34 tank were run from Kharkov to Moscow and back. During the trip, the tank confirmed its high technical qualities. After this test, it was decided to produce the T-34 at the main large enterprises of the USSR.

We glue the T-34 tank out of paper

To create a paper model of the tank, you will need to print the tank detail diagrams, cut them out and glue them.

Any printer is suitable for printing diagrams. black and white parts of the tank can be painted with paints.
Use thin cardboard or photo paper to print large parts of the tank.
For small details, you can use regular office paper.
To create even bends, place a ruler over the bend line and draw along it with the back of the scissors or a non-cutting pen.
Use scissors and a utility knife to cut out the part of the tank.
It is advisable to cut and glue the parts sequentially, moving from one glued part to gluing the next.
If the part has an inner circle, then it should be cut first, and then the part itself.
To glue the parts of the tank, use transparent acrylic glue "Moment" or any other analogue of it.
Before gluing, paint over the ends of the part, this will improve the appearance of the model.
When gluing the tank, follow the instructions

Part diagrams of the T-34 tank made of paper

Instructions for gluing the T-34 tank

Try to cut a tank like this. Such a craft will surely appeal to your loved ones by placing it in a conspicuous place, for example, on a shelf. To make such a craft, you will need the following:
Sawing tools.

let's get our desktop

First of all, you need to prepare your table on which you will work. There should be no unnecessary things on it and every tool should be at hand. Not everyone has their own desktop and probably already thought about creating one. Making a table is not difficult - it is difficult to choose a place for it in the house. The ideal option is an insulated balcony, on which you can complete your craft at any time. I already wrote about preparing the table in a separate article and tried to describe the entire process of creating it in as much detail as possible. If you do not know how to prepare your workplace, then read the next Article. After you have completed the process of creating a table, try to start choosing your future crafts.

Choosing quality material

The main material is plywood. Her choice is always difficult. Each of us has probably faced such a problem as peeling plywood from the end part and asked the question, what is the delamination from? Well, of course, this is mainly due to low-quality plywood. If this is not the first time you have taken the jigsaw in your hands, then you can pick up plywood from the remnants of the previous craft. If you are new to sawing and you do not have plywood, then buy it at a hardware store. It is always difficult to choose material for cutting. You should always choose plywood carefully, more often look at wood defects (knots, cracks) and draw conclusions. The difficulty in choosing plywood lies in the fact that no matter how miscalculated its defects and shelf life. For example, you bought plywood, cleaned it, translated the drawing, and suddenly it began to delaminate. Of course, this happened to almost everyone and it's oh, how unpleasant. So it is better to pay attention when choosing and choose good plywood. I wrote a special Article in which all the principles of choosing plywood are described step by step.

Plywood stripping

We clean our plywood with sandpaper. As you already know, "Medium-grained" and "Fine-grained" skin is used to clean plywood in cutting. In hardware stores, you probably saw skins (in another way, sandpaper), it is they that we need. In work you will need "Coarse-grained", "Medium-grained" and "Fine-grained" skin. Each of them has its own property, but completely different spraying, in which it is classified. "Coarse" skin is used for processing coarse plywood, i.e. which has a lot of defects, chips, as well as cracks.
“Medium-grain” skin is used for processing plywood after “Coarse” skin and has a slight dusting. "Fine-grained" or otherwise "Nulevka". This sandpaper serves as the final peeling process for plywood. It gives the plywood a smooth feel, and therefore the plywood will be pleasant to the touch. Sand the harvested plywood in stages, starting with medium-grained and ending with fine emery. Sand along the layers, not across. A well-sanded surface should be even, perfectly smooth, glossy in the light and silky to the touch. How best to prepare plywood for cutting and which sandpaper is better to choose Read here. After stripping, check the plywood for burrs and slight irregularities. If there are no visible defects, then you can proceed to the process of translating the drawing.

Drawing translation

For me, translation of a drawing has always been the main process in my work. I will tell you a couple of rules, as well as tips for a high-quality translation of a drawing. Many people translate the drawing onto plywood not only with a pencil and copying, but also with the help of "Black Ribbon", glue the drawing with plywood, then wash off the drawing with water and the drawing markings remain on the plywood. In general, there are many ways, but I will tell you about the most common way. To transfer a drawing to prepared plywood, you must use a copy, a ruler, a sharp pencil and a non-writing pen. Fix the drawing in plywood using buttons or just hold it with your left hand. Check if the drawing fits the dimensions. Arrange the clock drawing so that you can use a sheet of plywood as economically as possible. Translate the drawing with a non-writing pen and ruler. There is no need to rush, because your future craft depends on the drawing.

We drill holes in the details

As you have already noticed, there are parts of the grooves in the details that need to be cut out from the inside. To cut out such parts, you need to drill holes in them using a hand drill or, as in the old fashioned way, make holes with an awl. By the way, the hole diameter must be at least 1 mm, otherwise you can damage the elements of the drawing, which, alas, sometimes are difficult to restore. In order not to damage your work table when drilling holes, place a plank under the workpiece so as not to damage the work table. Drilling holes alone is always difficult and therefore ask a friend to help you in your business.

Sawing out parts

There are many rules for cutting, but you need to base on the most common ones. The first step is to cut out the inner parts, only then along the outer pattern. There is no need to rush when cutting. The main thing is to always keep the jigsaw straight at a 90 degree angle when cutting. Saw parts along the lines you marked exactly. The jigsaw must always move evenly up and down. Also, do not forget to monitor your posture. Try to avoid bevels and irregularities. If you get off the line while cutting, don't worry. Such bevels, irregularities can be removed using flat files or "Coarse" sandpaper.

Relaxation

We often get tired when sawing. Fingers and eyes, which are always tense, often get tired. During work, of course, everyone gets tired. In order to reduce the load, you need to do a couple of exercises. Exercises you can see here. Do the exercises several times in the process.

Cleaning Parts

You should always carefully clean up the details of a future craft. At the very beginning of work, you already cleaned the plywood with sandpaper. Now you have a small part of plywood stripping. Use a medium-grain sandpaper to clean the edges of the parts and the back of the plywood. "Fine-grained" skin is considered the final stage of cleaning parts. It is better to clean the front of the parts with a fine sandpaper. Take your time when processing plywood. You can also use a rounded file, with which it is convenient to clean the inside of the holes. Try to get the details without burrs and unevenness.

Assembling parts

Assembling the parts of our craft is not so difficult here. In order to carry out the correct assembly of parts, you need to read the following Article, which describes in detail all the details of the assembly. After the parts are assembled into one common craft without any problems, then proceed to gluing them.

We glue the details

It is necessary to glue the shelf parts using PVA or titan glue. You don't need to pour a lot of glue. It is better to tie the assembled craft with glue with a strong thread, tighten and put to dry. The craft is glued together for about 10-15 minutes.

Burning crafts

To decorate our craft with a pattern (for example, along the edges of the craft), you will need an electric burner. It can be very difficult to burn a pattern beautifully. To burn out the patterns, you must first draw the pattern with a pencil. You can read how to work with the electric burner and add patterns to the shelf here.

Varnishing crafts

If you wish, you can transform our craft by covering it with varnish "Woodwork" is better colorless. Read how best to varnish the craft. Try to choose a quality varnish. Perform varnishing with a special “For glue” brush. Do not hurry. Try not to leave visible streaks or scratches on the craft.

Earlier we published several schemes, today, we want to supplement this collection with a new model - tank T-10 made of paper.

The prototype of the T-10 tank was created by Soviet engineers back in 1944, but it was called the IS-4. Only after the death of I. Stalin, in whose honor it was named, it was renamed T-10.

The heavy tank T-10 (its weight is as much as 50 tons) had such good combat and tactical characteristics that its modernized prototypes (see "") were in service with the Soviet Army right up to 1993.

The tank is equipped with a 122 mm cannon, which could fire aimingly at 5 km. Its engine produced 750 horsepower. The tank could overcome water obstacles up to 5 m deep (it crossed rivers along the bottom).

Making a T-10 tank from paper

To make this model paper tank first print out the diagrams (sweeps) of the parts on a printer, preferably in color. However, if this is not possible, it does not matter. Tank parts can always be painted.

To print out diagrams of tank parts, you need to pick up thick paper, such as photographic paper or thin cardboard. Then the model of the tank will turn out to be strong and will be more durable.

Use sharp scissors to cut parts. You can also use a utility knife.
Once the pieces are cut, use an old ballpoint pen and ruler to make the neat folds used to glue the pieces together.

You can use any glue, but dry glue stick is better. The fact is that it will allow you to make the model of the tank more accurate, since there will be no smudges from it, and the paper will not curl.

Part diagrams of the T-10 tank made of paper

Tank gluing instructions

For dessert, we suggest looking at the domino principle in action, a world record of 125 thousand parts. Watch to the end. It's worth it.

Drawings of tanks T-72, M1A1 "Abrams" and the English "Challenger", comparative characteristics and methods of modeling.

To begin with, let's conduct a superficial analysis based on the tactical and technical characteristics of our T-72 tanks, the American M1A1 Abrams and the British Challenger.

They all have many features in common: laser rangefinders, stabilizers for tank armament, ballistic computers — in a word, all that minimal set of electronic means needed to conduct modern tank combat. The lightest and smallest of them, the T-72M, is armed with the largest-caliber cannon, 125 mm. Such a compact layout of the tank was largely achieved through the use of an automatic loader and a reduction of the crew to three people. The autoloader also provides the highest rate of fire, up to 8 rounds per minute, which neither British nor American tanks can boast of. The latter are much larger and heavier than "seventy-two", but they are not inferior in mobility, since they have engines of much higher power.

Comparing these combat vehicles, one cannot pass over in silence their main armament - cannons. The attentive reader has already noticed that smoothbore guns are installed on Soviet and American tanks, and rifled ones in English. What's better? Unlike rifled, smooth bore is cheaper to manufacture, more tenacious and, finally, allows you to accelerate the projectile in the bore to monstrous, so-called hypersonic speeds and thereby ensure its high armor penetration.

Stabilization of the projectile in flight is provided by the tail, which opens immediately after it leaves the barrel of the gun. Smooth-bore guns have another important advantage over rifled guns — lighter weight. The absence of grooves allows for thinner barrel walls. This economy, in principle, makes it possible to place 130 and even 140 mm cannons in promising tanks. The rifled gun has no such reserves.

We invite you to replenish your museum with three models of tanks of the opposing sides.

With the technology of assembling paper models, you think, so we will not dwell on it in detail. We will only talk about the key operations.

Models are best made of thin cardboard, butt-joint parts. The shapes of the hulls and turrets of British and American tanks are simple and you will not find any serious difficulties. The same can be said about the hull of the T-72 tank. The main condition for a successful assembly is to accurately remove the dimensions of the parts from the drawings and make the blanks as accurately as possible. You should start with the body, and then "hang" the rest of the nodes and parts on it. A characteristic feature of all tanks is a large number of various boxes and boxes on the sides of the towers. They are glued from thinner paper than the body, for example, from whatman paper. To make a basket on the Abrams tower, you can use copper or aluminum wire. Tulle works best to simulate ventilation grilles above engines. Take a few rags and coat them with glue on a mandrel. When it dries, carefully cut the blanks to the desired size and glue to the body. Towing cables are best made from a few harsh threads, twisted into a "rope" and lightly coated with glue.

A few words about the turret of the T-72 tank. It has a complex configuration and it will not be possible to make it in a way similar to the Abrams and Challenger. We advise you to make it like this: first, mold a blank of the desired shape from plasticine. Then glue it with strips of tissue (if not, newsprint) paper in several layers, covering each layer with glue. When the glue is dry, remove the clay. The tower is ready. This method is suitable for all parts of a complex shape, for example, an ejector on the barrel of an Abrams cannon.

A characteristic feature of modern tank guns is a heat-insulating cover that protects the barrel from sudden temperature fluctuations. Such a cover is shown in the drawing of the T-72 tank. It can be made from pieces of Whatman paper, bending around the already finished cannon and gluing the ends at the top. The elements of the cover are a kind of clamps worn on the barrel. In the drawing of the Challenger, only the rings for attaching the cover are shown, the cover itself is not shown. But making it is pretty simple. It is made of cloth, and, of course, you need to imitate it from pieces of cloth. Place them around the barrel of the gun between the rings and glue. Try to choose the fabric that matches the color of the tank.

The observation devices on all tanks are imitated by pieces of plexiglass. Make caterpillars out of paper with combs glued to them. A distinctive feature of the Abrams tracks is the embossed rubber pads on the outside of the tracks. To imitate them, take a sheet of thin rubber, cut out the pillows from it, and then carefully glue it onto the tracks. You can make them out of cardboard, but more spectacular out of rubber. The road wheels on all tanks are double, large in diameter and fairly simple in shape. They are made of thick cardboard. The fenders are glued to the body with the end part. The bulwark is also attached to them. To make it strong enough, glue it on the inside to strengthen the scarf or stiffener.

Make handrails on towers and antennas out of wire. Smoke Launchers are made from tightly rolled paper strips.

All combat vehicles are painted in "sand" color and practically merge with the background. The identification marks of British tanks are interesting. As you know, almost all British tank units in the past were formed on the basis of cavalry units, which is reflected in their names. The emblem of the brigade of the Royal Irish Hussars is a red rat. It is applied to the lower frontal sheet on the right and to the sides of the hull. In front of the bulwark there is a two-digit tactical number in black. Judging by the television footage and photographs in Western magazines, all the equipment of the coalition forces had a common identification mark in the form of the Russian letter "L" in white or black on board.

A characteristic identification mark of Iraqi tanks is a white stripe (ring) on the front of the ejector on the barrel of the gun. The barrels of machine guns on all vehicles are black, blued, rubber tires on road wheels are also black, as are the rubber pads on the Abrams tracks. The muzzles of tank guns, towing cables and track links are the color of unpainted metal.

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Municipal budgetary educational institution "Verkhovskaya Secondary School No. 1" Museum model of the T-34 tank Completed by: 11th grade student Alexander Shakhov Supervisor: technology teacher Martynov Oleg Ivanovich VERKHOVIE 2014

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CHOICE AND JUSTIFICATION OF THE PROJECT THEME I study in the 11th grade, at the school local history museum I study in the local history circle, I also love tinkering, I am fond of technology. In our museum there is a hall of military glory. There are presented documents telling about the battles for the liberation of our village from the Nazis, there are some samples of the armament of the Red Army and Nazi Germany. There are models - copies of the main combat aircraft made by members of the model aircraft circle. Last year I also made a model of an LA-5 fighter plane and donated it to the museum. In 2015, our country celebrates the 70th anniversary of the Victory in the Great Patriotic War. In this regard, and after consulting with the head of the museum, I decided to take the production of a model copy of some type of armored vehicles as the theme for my project and add them to the museum's exposition. one

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GOALS AND OBJECTIVES Purpose: To create an original product useful for school. Objectives: 1. To know and perform modeling techniques. 2. Learn to mentally represent the object and graphically express it in the form of a technical drawing and drawing. 3. To work with technological documentation. 4. Know and correctly perform the techniques of work on machines. 5. Arguably express your opinion and make the right decision when designing. 6. Realistically assess your knowledge and skills. 2

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CHOICE OF PRODUCT OPTIONS Having examined several types of tanks that were in service with the Red Army during the years of the Great Patriotic War, I settled on the legendary thirty-four, the T-34 tank. In my opinion, it looks very nice and will be easier to manufacture than the rest. 3

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The “biography” of the thirty-four began in October 1937, when the tank design bureau of the Kharkov plant received an order from the Main Automobile Directorate of the Red Army's armored directorate to design a new vehicle capable of replacing the existing BT-type tank in the future. Work began on the creation of a tank with anti-cannon armor. The design of a wheeled-tracked vehicle with 30-mm armor and a 45-mm cannon was carried out at the Kharkov plant in the design department headed by M. Koshkin. A year and a half later, the USSR Defense Committee was presented with a project of a tracked tank, named A-32. On December 19, 1939, the country's government decided to create an improved version of the A-32 tank - the T-34 medium tank, which later became one of the most famous in the history of world tank construction. The production of the first two experimental thirty-fours began in January 1940. And already at the end of February, the tanks set off on their own to Moscow. After the demonstration of the cars in the Kremlin, proving grounds began. The T-34 was forced to overcome the most difficult obstacles and make dizzying maneuvers. They were fired at by direct fire with high-explosive and armor-piercing shells. In June 1940, the Politburo of the Central Committee of the All-Union Communist Party (Bolsheviks) made a decision to launch the production of T-34 tanks. By January 1, 1941, the Kharkov plant managed to produce 115 of the 600 ordered vehicles. 5

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In the spring of 1941, designers and technologists launched a tremendous amount of work to improve and simplify the production of thirty-fours. This primarily concerned the manufacture of towers. In the first machines, they were welded from rolled armor plates. This process was complicated, laborious, and expensive. In an effort to simplify it, engineers developed a new technology that involved welding a tower with a 52mm thickness of armor from just two cast elements. By the beginning of the Great Patriotic War, there were already 1,225 T-34 tanks in the Red Army, of which 967 were in the western districts. The Stalingrad Tractor Plant and the Krasnoe Sormovo Plant in Gorky joined the production. Both opponents and our allies in the second world war failed to create a tank surpassing the legendary thirty-four. The T-34 was reliable, easy to manufacture, operate and repair, and easy to learn. Thirty-fours bore the brunt of the fight against the Nazi armored hordes from 1941 to 1945. 6

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DRAWINGS OF THE T-34 -76 TANK I found the drawings of the tank in the magazines "Modelist-Constructor". With the help of an epidiascope, I enlarged them to the scale I needed 1:10, then, using them, I developed and cut out reamers of the casing, tower, fuel tanks from cardboard and drew up technological maps for the production of the main parts of the tank. eight

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CHOICE OF MATERIALS For the manufacture of my product, I used available and cheap construction materials, wood and metals. For the case, I chose galvanized sheet metal, 0.2 mm thick. She bends well, soldered, processed. The metal body allows fixing and making on it the smallest details with great reliability by soldering and surfacing of tin with further processing. The turret of the tank, the road wheels and the housings of the final drives are made of birch wood. Birch has wood, white with a brownish tint, hard, dense. Well processed, sharpened. Steel St-3 is a cheap, affordable construction material. Durable, easy to process, sharpen, solderable. The gun barrel, front guide wheels and rear driving wheels were cut from a steel bar. Copper is a soft orange-red metal. Easy to process, bend, solder. Copper pipes and wires were used for the manufacture of exhaust pipes, machine guns, staples. Tin is a soft, heavy metal, silvery in color, does not oxidize, melts easily. Used as a solder and for casting track links. 10

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Epoxy universal adhesive. It is used for gluing metals, their alloys, glass, wood. Primer GF - 021. Used to cover the product after assembly before painting. PF-115 alkyd enamels of various colors. Soldering acid is a flux for soldering metals. eleven

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SELECTION OF TOOLS AND EQUIPMENT 1.Lathe TV-6 2.Lathe STD-120 3.Drilling machine 4.Drill 5.Set of files 6.Set of file files 7.Set of drills 8.Nezovka 9.Jigsaw 10.Ruban 11.Rule 12 .Scribe 13.Punch 14. Caliper 15.Circulum 16.Pencil 17.Awl 18.Knife 19.Hammer 20.Set of brushes 21.A sandpaper 22. Soldering iron 23. Compressor 24. Spray gun 12

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TECHNOLOGICAL MAPS According to the drawings, with the help of a technology teacher, I developed and compiled technological maps for the manufacture of the main parts and parts of the T-34 -75 tank. thirteen

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MANUFACTURE OF THE TOP PART OF THE TANK CASE No. Name Qty. Scale Material 1 Upper part of the body 1 1:10 Tin Plate Technological map No. 1 14

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The sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment materials 1.Cut out the workpiece of the required dimensions Ruler Scribe Metal scissors Tin 2. Apply the contours of the part to the workpiece Template Scribe Centerline 3.Cut out the unfolded part. Metal scissors File Remove burrs 4. Drill the marked holes Drill sled Hand vise Drill 5. Bend the reamer along the fold lines. Solder the corners. Metal shears Locksmith vise Mandrel Soldering iron 15

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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools equipment materials 1.Select a workpiece of the required size Ruler Pencil Hacksaw Wood 2. Mark the contours of the tower bottom using a template Pencil template 3. Mark the contours of the upper part of the tower using a template. Drill 5. Process the part according to the markings. Clean the surfaces. Planer Rasp Sandpaper 17

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MANUFACTURE OF THE SIDE WALL OF THE BOTTOM PART OF THE TANK CASE No. Name Quantity Scale Material 1 Side wall 2 1: 10 Tin Technological map No. 3 18

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The sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 1.Cut the workpiece to the desired size. Ruler Scribe Scissors for metal Tin 2. Apply the contours of the part according to the template. Template Scribe Punch 3 Cut out the part. Remove burrs. Metal scissors File 4 Drill holes Drilling machine Hand vise Drill 19

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Engine cover production No. Name Qty. Scale Material 1 Engine cover 1 1:10 Tin Technological map No. 4 20

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The sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 1.Cut out the workpiece of the required size Ruler Pencil Scissors for metal Tin 2.Apply the contours of the part according to the template Template Scribe Center punch 3.Cut out the part. Remove burrs. Metal scissors File 4. Drill the marked holes. Drilling machine Hand vise Drill 5. Cut out the engine ventilation windows. Remove burrs. Hammer Chisel File 21

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The sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 6. Bend the part along the fold lines. Locksmith vise Mandrel Hammer Pliers 7.Solder corners 8.Close the engine ventilation windows with mesh Soldering iron Soldering acid Solder Soldering iron Soldering acid Solder Metal mesh 9.Finally clean the part File Sandpaper 22

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MANUFACTURE OF THE MOUNT OF THE GUN No. Name Quantity Scale material 1 The muzzle of the gun 1 1: 10 Steel Technological map No. 5 23

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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 1. Select the steel bar of the required dimensions. Ruler Hacksaw for metal Rod Locksmith vice 2.Fix the workpiece in the chuck of the lathe. Drill a hole. Lathe TV-6 Drill 3. Fix the workpiece in the chuck of the lathe and the tailstock taper. Lathe TV-6 Workpiece 4. Grind the workpiece to the required size. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier caliper 5. Make final cleaning of the part. Stripper Emery cloth 24

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Manufacturing of a fuel tank No. Name Qty. Scale Material 1 Fuel tank 3 1: 10 Tin Technological map No. 6 25

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The sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Fixtures 1.Cut the workpiece of the required dimensions. Ruler Scribe Scissors for metal Tin 2. Draw the contours of the part according to the template. Scraper Template 3. Cut out the flat pattern of the part. Remove burrs. Metal scissors File 4. Bend the workpiece along the fold lines. Pliers Workpiece 5. Solder the seams of the workpiece. Soldering iron Soldering acid Solder 26

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MANUFACTURE OF THE SUPPORT ROLLER No. Name Quantity Scale Material 1 Support roller 10 1: 10 Birch Technological map No. 7 27

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The sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 1. Select the workpiece of the required dimensions Ruler Pencil Hacksaw Wood 2. Mark the centers at the ends of the workpiece. To plan the edges. Joiner's workbench Planer Ruler Pencil 3. Mark and make a cut at the end of the workpiece. To screw up the centers. Ruler Pencil Hacksaw Center punch Hammer 4. Fix the workpiece in the lathe. Process to the required diameter. Lathe STD-120 Chisels Vernier caliper 5. Grind tenons and chamfers. Clean the surfaces. Cut off the part. Lathe STD-120 Chisels Sandpaper 28

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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 6.Fix the workpiece in the chuck with reverse jaws. Lathe TV-6 Workpiece 7. Drill a hole. Lathe TV-6 Drill 8. Make grooves at the ends of the workpiece. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier caliper 9. Make the final cleaning of the part Lathe TV-6 Sandpaper 29

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MANUFACTURE OF THE GUIDE WHEEL No. Designation Qty. Scale Material 1 Idler 2 1: 10 Steel Technological map No. 8 30

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The sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 1. Select the workpiece of the required dimensions. Ruler Vernier caliper Hacksaw for metal Steel bar 2.Fix the workpiece in the chuck of the lathe and grind to the required diameter. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier caliper 3. Grind the spike in the workpiece to the required depth. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier caliper 4. Make a groove from the end of the workpiece. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier caliper 5. Drill a hole in the workpiece. Lathe TV-6 Drill Vernier caliper 31

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Sequence of technological operations Graphic representation Tools Equipment Materials 6. Cut off the finished part. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier caliper 7. Make a groove on the end face of the part. Lathe TV-6 Cutter Vernier caliper 8. Mark and drill holes. Vernier caliper Center punch Hammer Drilling machine Drill Vise 32

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Safety precautions when working on the TV-6 screw-cutting lathe Before starting work: Put on work clothes, button up sleeves, prepare protective goggles. Clamp the cutter and work piece firmly. Remove the cartridge key. Check the handles of the machine, move the cutter away from the workpiece. Switch on the machine and check its operation at idle speed. During work: Smoothly move the tool towards the workpiece. It is prohibited to: - measure the workpiece being processed; - remove shavings, lubricate and clean the machine without turning it off; - move away from the working machine; - after turning off the machine, brake the chuck with your hands; -transmit and receive objects through the rotating parts of the machine; - blow off and sweep away the shavings by hand; At the end of work: Remove the support from the chuck and switch off the machine. Tidy up the machine, workplace, tools, equipment. Dispose of waste in a special box. 34

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SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS WHEN WORKING ON THE DRILLING MACHINE Dangers in work: 1. Injury to the eyes by flying off shavings. 2. Injury of hands due to poor fastening of the part. Before starting work: 1. Put on your workwear correctly. 2.Check the reliability of fastening the protective casing of the belt drive, the connection of the protective grounding with the machine body. 3.Check the operation of the machine at idle speed. 4. Securely fix the drill in the chuck. 5.Firmly fix the part on the machine table. 6. Put on safety goggles. During operation: 1. Feed the drill to the workpiece smoothly, without effort and jerking. 2.Before drilling a metal workpiece, mark the centers of the holes. 3. When the drill comes out of the metal, reduce the feed. 4.Do not brake the chuck and drill with your hands. 5. Do not leave the machine without turning it off. At the end of work: 1. Remove the chips from the machine with a brush and a hook. 2.Do not blow off the shavings with your mouth and do not sweep away with your hands. 35

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SAFETY IN THE MANUAL PROCESSING OF METAL Dangers in work: 1. Injury by metal splinters. 2. Injury when working with a faulty tool. 3.Cuts with burrs. Before starting work: 1. Put on your workwear correctly. 2. Wear glasses when cutting metal. 3.Check the condition of the instruments. 4. Check the condition of the bench vise. During work: 1. Firmly fix the workpiece in a vice. 2. Do not use your fingers to check the quality of the filed surface. 3.Use locksmith tools only for their intended purpose. 4. Hold the sheet metal workpiece cut off during cutting with scissors with a glove (mitten). After finishing work: 1. Thoroughly clean the workplace (do not blow off shavings and sawdust by hand). Place waste in a special box. 2. Put the tools in their places. 3. Put yourself in order. 36

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RULES FOR SAFE WORK FOR SOLDERING METALS 1. During work, use ventilation to remove dust and harmful vapors. 2. Work with a working soldering iron with a dry handle and carefully insulated wires. 3. Handle hot soldering iron, molten solder and hot parts with care. 4. Install the soldering iron on a special stand. 5. Place a rubber mat under your feet. 6. Handle fluxes with care, do not allow them to splash and fall on the body. 7. Keep fluxes in special containers on supports. 8. After finishing work, wash your hands with soap and water. 37

40 slide

Slide Description:

RULES FOR SAFE OPERATION WITH THE MUFFLE OVEN 1.Check the reliability of the protective grounding to the oven body. 2.Open and close the oven door only after disconnecting it from the mains. 3.Do not place flammable objects on or around the oven. 4. Place the container with the materials in the oven and remove it with long-handled pliers. 5. Handle molten metal carefully. 6.When working with metal, wear a tarpaulin apron. 7.Work with gloves and goggles. 8.After the end of the work, turn off the oven. 38

41 slide

Slide Description:

SAFETY INSTRUCTIONS WHEN WORKING WITH ADHESIVES AND PAINTS When working with paints and varnishes, adhesives, putties, the workplace must be equipped with ventilation, well lit, and dust free. Observe the following rules: - protect hands and clothes from paint, enamel, glue - use a respirator - use rubber gloves - monitor the ventilation - at the end of the work wash your hands thoroughly with soap and water 39