Weld a door from a profile pipe with your own hands. How to assemble and install a metal door with your own hands

The installation of iron doors is carried out both in apartments of residential buildings, and in bathhouses, garages, outbuildings, private houses, providing reliable protection property from thieves and other criminals.

If purchasing a high-quality metal door is not possible due to the high cost of materials, or due to the need to manufacture a door of a certain size, then self-production iron doors, you can be sure that the design will be reliable, and the costs of the materials used will not be too high.

Helpful information:

Planning and sketch

First you need to take careful measurements of the doorway, and also make sure that your walls are made of brick or concrete, and not plywood under a thick layer of plaster. After this, you should display the dimensions of the doors, the installation height of the hinges and lock, stiffeners and other features of the product on paper.

Because metal door blocks installed at the entrance to the apartment, the door leaf should open from the inside out. As prescribed fire safety the entrance door should not create obstacles for evacuation if necessary.

The quality of installation depends on whether you correctly prepare the doorway before installing metal doors. It is important to adjust its dimensions to the dimensions of the door - the more accurately this is done, the smaller the gap between the opening and the door, the more securely the door will be installed. This can be explained by the length of the protruding part of the anchor bolt. If the opening is too wide, then the door is installed in a suspended state - parts of the frame will not adhere to the walls.

1. Work is carried out on metal workbench. First, we will assemble the box, for which we will cut a metal corner and a profile at 45 ° according to the markings. Then you should check the cutting accuracy, for this you need to connect the frame and apply carpenter's corner. You can assemble a frame from pipes by welding them in the shape of a rectangle.
   
   During the work, it is important to check the accuracy of the connection of corners and diagonals so that the structure does not become distorted. Weld seams should be processed using an angle grinder so that the blade fits tightly to the door frame.
   
   
2. We make blanks for the frame from a metal corner, using pre-prepared rectangles of a certain thickness as templates. The gap between the frame and the door frame will be about 5 millimeters on the lock side and about 3 millimeters on the other 3 sides. You should mark and cut it, then put it in the door frame, and then check the diagonal.
   
   A slot for a lock is required in the side profile. Weld the frame corners and frames in several places around the entire perimeter. Now you can weld metal strips onto the frame that will secure the door trim.
   
   
3. Inside door leaf it is necessary to weld the first stiffening rib - measure the length of the frame, cut the profile of the required dimensions and weld it vertically in the center. Then you should clean the weld seams with a grinder.
4. After all this, you need to mark the canvas. We recommend keeping the overlap of the steel sheet on the box within 10-15 millimeters, and on the side of the hinges – 5 millimeters. Cut the steel sheets with a grinder and weld them to the frame.
   
   Stiffening ribs located horizontally should be welded inside the canvas. If they are not enough, then the volume of reinforcement should be increased.
5. To install the lock, make markings on the canvas with a marker or chalk. Drill a hole for the lock and file it. Drill the holes required to attach the lock, cut the threads and secure the lock with bolts. Install the lock handle.
   
   To install a lock on a door, other steps may be required (it all depends on the type of product). Read the article about.
6. Lubricate the hinges and weld them to the door frame and door frame. You should use a grinder to cut the junction of the frame and the leaf, open the door and fix the hinges from the inside using a welding machine.
   
   You can also make a hole for a peephole in the door either through the central profile and metal, or by moving the peephole to the side and then drilling a hole only in the metal sheet.
7. To make fasteners for the door, take 6-10 strips of metal and weld them to the door frame.
   
   We will then make the holes needed for the anchors in these strips.
8. To insulate the door, cut a piece of polystyrene foam, mineral wool or other insulation and fill it with the entire area located between the stiffeners.
   
   For making internal decorative cladding We recommend taking a sheet of plywood that has been pre-cut to size and fastening it with rivets. For finishing, you can use plastic, laminated panels or lining (if you install the door in a bathhouse).
   
   If after production you still have suspicions that the door was not insulated reliably, we recommend reading.
9. All is ready. All that remains is to coat the door with auto primer and then paint it.
   
   If you wish, instead of painting, you can cover the door with leather or leatherette. If necessary, on door frame seals should be installed. Drill holes in the welded steel strips, secure the door frame with anchors in the opening, use a level to prevent the door from skewing.

Decorating a door with a window and a figured grille

An entrance door with double-glazed windows is installed in private houses. Due to the fact that light penetrates the window, the hallway will be better illuminated, and forged elements will give the front entrance a respectable look.

You need a normal one Iron door, and prices on the market are “biting”? There is an option to build it yourself. Let's look together at how to make a metal door with your own hands, starting with preparing tools, purchasing material and sketching a sketch, and ending with insulation and finishing.

Making an iron door yourself is quite possible.

Making a metal door with your own hands is quite a realistic task for an amateur, but there is one caveat: you must be able to work fluently with an angle grinder and have at least basic knowledge of welding machine. But before you make the door itself, you need to prepare the tools and material.

Tool selection

• Bulgarian;
• Welding machine;
• Screwdriver or set of screwdrivers;
• Electric drill with impact function or hammer drill;
• Round “bastard” file;
• Hammer;
• Roulette;
• Kern;
• Level (preferably 1.5 m);
• Square.

Home handyman's tool.

In addition, you will need a variety of accessories for power tools. This refers to discs for an angle grinder for metal, a cord brush for an angle grinder, drill bits for a drill, emery and other small things without which it is impossible to make a metal door with your own hands.

Purchasing material for making a metal door

For iron doors you need to buy:

• Metal sheet with a thickness of 1.5 to 3 mm;
• Profiled pipe 40x20 mm – minimum 7 – 8 m;
• Corner 50x50 mm - about 7 m;
• Strip 40x4 mm – 2 m;
• Ordinary male-female or articulated hinges – 2 pcs.

If in welding work If you don’t have much experience, then it’s better to take a thicker sheet for entrance doors, at least 2 mm, and preferably 3 mm. Welding metal doors the matter is not particularly difficult, but it is very easy to burn through a thin sheet.

Material for metal doors

You will also need a good, level table or some kind of trestle; making a metal door on the ground is very difficult, and for a novice craftsman it is not at all realistic.

Making a sketch

Professional drawings for standard iron doors can now be found, but the problem is that these documents were made according to GOST 31173-2003, that is, 2200x900 mm or 2200x1200 mm (for wide openings).

Professional drawing for a door welded from metal

The entrance metal door in an apartment or private house does not always correspond to the standard, so it is better to draw up a sketch. Otherwise, on non-standard opening you will have to either cut out part of the slope or somehow seal the gap next to the door.

An example of a sketch for a non-standard iron door.

Since we are making an iron door with our own hands, then at the stage of creating a sketch we need to take into account some tolerances; they are shown in the example below:

• The starting dimensions of the doorway are 216x90 cm;
• It is impossible to make a frame (lutka) close to the walls, since there will be nowhere to pour the mounting foam, so along the top edge we leave 10 mm for the foam, plus 5 mm for the thickness of the corner;
• At the bottom we make a small threshold, respectively, 25 mm will be cut off from the corner, leaving a total of 212 cm for the height of the frame along the inner perimeter;
• On the sides we also leave 10 mm for foam, plus 10 mm is the thickness of the metal in 2 corners, for a total width of the internal opening of 87 cm;
• Samu steel door, or rather the frame under it, cannot be made close to the scuttle; if the house starts to “walk” and the scuttle moves a little, the canvas will jam. Therefore, we leave a gap of 5 mm along the outer perimeter, respectively, it turns out 211x86 cm;
• We take a larger sheet (90x215 cm), since it will overlap part of the loot.

The tools have been prepared, the material has been purchased, a sketch has been made, now you can start building iron doors with your own hands.

Seven stages of steel door assembly

You can make metal doors with your own hands only from a corner or only from a profiled pipe, but the mixed version turns out to be more reliable and practical. It is better to weld the outer frame (frame) from a 50x50 mm corner, and the frame for the door leaf from a 40x20 mm profiled pipe.

Stage No. 1. We cook the loot

First of all, we cut off the corners according to the diagram and fix them on the work table or sawhorses with clamps. Here it is important that the lower plane is flat and the corners meet at 90º. We check the rectangle of the box by its diagonals, if they are the same, then the corners will be right.

Fixing the frame with clamps.

You shouldn’t scald the corners right away, they can lead, first we grab them at several points and measure the diagonals again until everything is boiled, you can still adjust minor inaccuracies.

Spot tack.

When scalding corners, first apply all the vertical seams, and then move on to the horizontal ones, so the metal will overheat less. We will cut out the excess part of the corner later.

Welding corners.

Now we turn the frame over and check the plane with a long level or any even standard. There should be no distortions or bends.

Checking the plane of the frame.

We boil the external joints and immediately sand these seams with a grinder.

Welding external seams.

As shown in the photo above, we still have a piece of the corner left uncut from the inside; it needs to be removed, as it will interfere with installation. To do this, turn the frame over again and cut out the excess parts with a grinder. The loot is ready, now you can move on to the frame for the iron door.

Cut out the excess parts.

Stage No. 2. Frame for the door leaf

When cutting profiled pipes for the frame of a door leaf, first measure out all the long parts, and then cut out the short ones from the rest. Otherwise, you may not guess and then, big vertical racks will have to be welded from pieces.

It is better to make the slot for the lock right away. To do this, measure 1 m from the bottom of the post and make 2 vertical cuts according to the dimensions of the lock, and cut this strip diagonally in the middle. To make the pieces easier to break out, we make small cuts on them; the arrows in the photo point to these cuts.

Initial fitting of the lock.

To ensure that the frame of the door leaf fits neatly into place, we fix the profiled pipes with clamps inside Lutki. Don’t forget: there should be a gap of 5 mm between the profiled pipe and the corner; to do this, insert spacers. You can use the same corner trims as spacers.

Fixing the profiled pipe on the frame.

It's important here how to put profiled pipes, any such pipe has a welded seam, so this seam should “look” into the fabric.

Welding seam of a profiled pipe.

When constructing a frame for a door leaf, it is no longer necessary to check the diagonals, since we are “attached” to the outer frame. The corners are welded by analogy with the loot, that is, we grab it at several points, and then weld the joints from the center to the edges.

Welding corners door frame.

Here, while the frame is in the sump, we weld the transverse stiffeners; they are made from a profiled pipe.

Fastening of stiffeners.

Now we remove the clamps and remove outer frame and weld the ends of the joints in the corners, after which we sand all the seams. Be careful, the metal is thin and burns easily.

It is necessary to grind the weld seams on the outside.

Always control where your top, bottom, hinges and lock are. At this stage it is very easy to get confused and then it will be difficult to correct the situation without losses.

Stage No. 3. Attaching the sheet

First we need to cut the sheet to size. From the frame of the door leaf to the edge of the sheet we leave 20 mm (5 mm for the gap, plus 15 mm for the overlap of the slit). To cut the sheet exactly according to the markings, you can use a profiled pipe; simply secure it with clamps and cut along the edge with a grinder.

Standard for cutting sheets with a grinder.

We place the door frame on the cut sheet, check that the overlap is clearly observed everywhere, and spot weld the profiled pipes to the sheet (steps of about 100 - 150 mm). To prevent the frame from moving during welding, it can be secured with clamps.

You grab the frame not along the perimeter, but diagonally. That is: we welded one point, then moved to the opposite one, and so on until everything was scalded. Otherwise, the design may fail.

Spot welding of door leaf.

Stage No. 4. How to weld hinges

Illustrations	Recommendations
	We buy ordinary awnings, the male-male type (male with a pin). Canopies must be lubricated immediately before installation.
	There should be 20 - 25 cm from the bark cloth to the canopies, both above and below.
	The canopy should be slightly raised so that the sheet does not cling to the frame when opening.
	The canopy is positioned so that when viewed from above, there is a gap of 1 - 2 mm between it and the sheet.
	Before how to cook structure, place a spacer (a piece of the same sheet) under the sheet. The gap is needed for the rubber seal.
	We scald the awnings.
	To hold the canopy more securely, you can weld a metal plate with an overlap onto the canvas frame, but this is more of a recommendation than a rule.

Stage No. 5. We cut into the lock

The lock has already been inserted into the door frame, now you need to try it on and mark the places of the cuts in the door.

Marking for holes in the corner.

We drill holes for the keyhole with a large drill, and then bring it to the right size a round bastard file.

Hole for keyhole.

The holes in the corner for the lock itself are cut out with a grinder and also processed with a file. It is advisable to cover the lock bolts from the inside with a metal casing; it can be made from a profiled pipe or angle, the casing must be welded.

Cover for protecting the lock bolts.

Now all that remains is to try on the overlay on done earlier holes and you can proceed to facing work.

Installation of the lock escutcheon.

Stage No. 6. Cladding and insulation

It is cheaper and best to insulate iron doors with foam plastic; as a rule, PSB-S-25 slabs with a thickness of 40 mm are used. The slab is cut slightly smaller than the opening, and the gap is then filled in polyurethane foam.

Insulation of entrance doors with foam plastic.

There is no need to insulate entrance doors with mineral wool. The fact is that any cotton wool is afraid of moisture and shrinks after getting wet, so after a couple of years such insulation will stop working.

The inside of the structure can be covered with any board you like, from OSB to laminated MDF.

Laminated MDF door trims.

You can also read a more detailed article on insulating metal doors -.

The outer front of the doors can also be finished with a laminated board, but it will be easier and cheaper to paint the metal with hammer paint; this is done like this:

1. All metal is cleaned with a cord brush (it is convenient to use a cord attachment on an angle grinder);
2. The structure is degreased with acetone or gasoline;
3. The metal is coated with primer for the previously selected hammer paint;
4. Apply 2-3 layers of paint with a brush, roller or spray gun.

Painting iron doors with hammer paint.

Stage No. 7. Installation of metal doors

To secure the iron doors, you must first weld unique shanks made from a 40x4 mm strip around the perimeter of the door.

Shanks for fastening iron doors.

The structure is installed in the following sequence:

1. Insert the loot into the doorway;
2. Use a hammer drill to drill blind holes in the slopes through shanks;
3. Then you can hammer in metal crutches or fix the structure anchor bolts;
4. Hang the door leaf;
5. Blow out the gaps around the perimeter of the tray with polyurethane foam;
6. The door is installed, now all that remains is to cut off the excess dried foam and arrange the slopes.

This is how you install an iron door with your own hands.

Conclusion

As you can see in home “production”, without professional schemes and expensive equipment, I assembled a good iron door with my own hands and it cost about half as much as the factory equivalent.

WITH good decor homemade door will look no worse than the factory one.

I would like to show and tell you how to make a full-fledged door on your own. It's not that difficult, especially don't be afraid. I myself have little experience in welding. I had to deal with this problem at work. The technical room needed a metal door and preferably with a window. Of course, this type of door can be ordered and bought in a store, but you will feel the real savings when you make it yourself. Armed with a suitable door sketch, I got to work.

Equipment and materials for the manufacture of a metal door with a window

• metal corner 50×50×4 mm
• metal strip 20×2 mm
• square pipe 20×20 mm
• sheet steel 2000×1000×2 mm
• plywood sheet 2000×1000×12mm
• rivets 4×16-1 pack
• door hinges with a diameter of 16 mm, a length of 12 mm 2 pieces
• metal strip 40×4 mm
• PVA glue
• foam chips
• electrodes
• cutting discs for metal
• metal grinding disc
• car primer
• black paint
• hammer paint

How to make a metal door with a window and decor using cold metal forging technique

First of all, you need to decide on the appearance of the future door, make it yourself or find a sketch or photo of it on the Internet. I printed the sketch to scale, based on the actual dimensions of the doorway. If the opening width in the sketch is, for example, 20 mm, this means that its real width is 2 m.

To make the door, it's best to start with a frame, which I welded from angle metal.

We mark the corner and cut it with a grinder at 45 degrees.

We apply the carpenter's corner to the corner of the frame, maintaining an angle of 90 degrees.

Having welded the corners, we grind them with a grinder and a grinding disc.

From the same corner and a metal strip (20×2) I made blanks for the door frame. The template will help you calculate the exact distance to weld the strip. To do this, a template is applied to the inside of the corner (50×50) along with a strip (20×2), then the strip is welded to the corner.

In the future, the strip will serve as a plywood retainer. Then the excess material is cut off along the entire length of the corner.

On one of the strips I made a hole for the lock so as not to have to do it later when the whole frame is ready.

We make the key hole at a distance of 900 mm from the edge of the corner.

We make metal blanks for the door frame according to the dimensions of the internal frame. A frame for the doors is created from the already made corner. It is made according to the height and width of the internal dimensions of the door frame.

In order to avoid rubbing of the frame and door frame, you need to put metal plates between them, which I made from the same 20x2 mm strip.

Between the frames we insert our blanks - metal plates 2mm thick.

Now we weld the door frame.

As a result, we got a door frame and a door frame.

We weld a sheet of metal to the resulting door frame. The distance from the edge of the metal sheet to the frame is 15mm

For the future window, use a grinder to cut out an opening in the center of the door.

We also make stiffening ribs, as shown in the photo, and weld them to the door so that it does not bend and retains its shape.

The initial number of stiffeners was not enough, so additional ones need to be made.

But this was not enough, so add diagonal ribs for strength.

There should be as many stiffening ribs as will allow the door not to bend.

This is what your resulting design should look like.

Using a drill and a drill bit with a diameter of 4.2 mm, we make a hole, then use a tap to make a 5 mm thread.

We fasten the lock to the door frame with bolts with a diameter of 5 mm.

Using a marker, you can make markings for the future hole for the core of the lock.

First, we drill a hole using a drill and a drill bit with a diameter of 12 mm, then we finish this hole with a round file.

Now let's cut out a rectangle from plywood to the size of the future door for the inside of the door.

Now let's work on the loops. To choose their location correctly, you need to retreat 150 mm from the top and bottom edges of the door.

In this case, the hinges should be positioned so that the lubrication holes face the front of the doors.

We weld around the perimeter of the door frame square pipe(20x20) to close the gap between the frames.

Now let's take small strips (40x4) of metal that will serve us to fasten the doors, and weld them perpendicular to the surface of the door. With their help, the door will be secured in the doorway.

We make two holes in the door frame for the lock “tongues”. We make markings for the “reeds” directly from the lock attached to the door.

To protect the lock, we weld a corner.

Now let's start painting the door. First we will cover it with primer paint.

After the primer layer has dried, cover the door with black paint.

We use foam chips as insulation for the door. It needs to be mixed with PVA.

Then carefully fill the entire surface of the door with the insulation mixture.

We fasten the pre-painted plywood with rivets to the door frame.

Now we paint the door on both sides with hammer paint.

To avoid drips and distribute the paint evenly, it is advisable to lay the door horizontally.
We have an empty hole for the window. We install in it decorative grille made in the technique cold forging metal

In addition, we need to install double-glazed windows to keep the door warm.

The door is ready, now it needs to be installed in the doorway. To do this, you need a level to keep the door vertical. I welded a metal strip perpendicular to the frame; a hole with a diameter of 12 mm is made in it for fixing with anchor bolts (D12 mm and 100 mm long).

Now the door not only gives you a feeling of pride and satisfaction for the work done, but is also ready for constant use.

Even a novice master can do this if he knows how to handle a welding machine.

Of course, you won’t be able to create a complex model right away, but you can make and install a basic model front door- quite affordable.

The importance of the front door cannot be underestimated.

This is not only the first and main line that prevents dishonest citizens from entering your home, but also one of the key details of the interior of a residential building.

Sound insulation and regulation of air temperature in the room are two more functions of a metal entrance door.

And if you start in an apartment major renovation, then the question of installing a new metal entrance door is one of the first to be decided.

A ready-made door purchased in a store does not at all guarantee that it is missing hidden defects, and the prices there are not always affordable, adjusting it will be difficult, and the sound insulation will probably not suit you.

Well, self-made shaped doors are still ahead of you, but we’ll start with the simplest.

As in other cases, the manufacture of a metal door begins with paper work, in other words, we have to create a drawing.

In order for the drawing to be accurate and true to reality, you have to decide on the dimensions.

The design diagram of the front door offered for review will introduce you to the names and locations of the main components and elements.

Preparing the diagram

A drawing of a metal entrance door is a large-scale diagram of the door leaf, according to which the assembly and installation of the product will be carried out, with the dimensions of the door frame, the location of the stiffeners and hinges marked on it.

We arm ourselves with a tape measure and take measurements from the doorway.

The standard door size is 90 x 200 cm; if the actual dimensions of the opening are significantly larger than the data, it makes sense to install a separate block on top or on the side of the door leaf.

The side block can be made solid or hinged, and the top block can be covered with sheet metal, glazed or lattice.

We also apply all this to our drawing.

The dimensions of the door frame should be 2 cm smaller than the doorway - this will be the installation gap in which the installation of the block is adjusted to avoid distortions. Below is a sectional diagram of a metal door.

Most often, the door is attached to 2-4 hinges, their number depends on the weight of your structure.

Hinges can be external or hidden; the second option is more difficult to manufacture and requires certain skills.

Since we are trying to make a “door for beginners,” we will focus on the first option.

For uniform distribution load, the hinges should be made at an equal distance from each other, and the top and bottom hinges should be located at a distance of 15 cm from the edge of the door.

You can make stiffening ribs in any direction - horizontally, vertically or in a mesh, as well as diagonally - everything is at your discretion.

The ribs must be made so that they do not pass through the places where the lock, peephole, door handle.

You determine the number of ribs yourself; it must ensure that the door does not bend under its own weight, otherwise the door will require repairs after some time.

So, the drawing is ready.

Preparing materials and tools

Having decided on the dimensions, we prepare a set of tools that we will need during the work, count the number necessary materials and go to the store.

We offer you a sample list of tools:

• welding machine;
• drill;
• a set of screwdrivers or a screwdriver;
• Bulgarian;
• clamps;
• files or grinder;
• trestles or door table for assembly;
• measuring instruments (corner; tape measure, etc.);
• building level.

For metal door standard size you will need:

• steel sheet 2-3 mm thick – 100 x 200 cm;
• metal corner 3;2 x 3;2 cm – 6 running meters. (for door frame);
• profile pipe 5 x 2;5 cm - about 9 l.m. (for the door frame and stiffeners);
• metal plates 40 x 4 cm, 2-3 mm thick - at least 4 pieces (for attaching the door frame to the walls);
• door hinges;
• lock;
• accessories;
• anchor bolts;
• anti-corrosion coating;
• metal paint;
• polyurethane foam.

Choose fittings and locks to suit your taste. Manufacturers offer a large selection of locks, the most reliable of which are considered three-sided.

A lock with bolts on three sides is, of course, more difficult to install, but it is also not easy to break into.

If you are making a metal door for a utility room (shed), then it is possible to make a lightweight, economical option - in this case, for stiffeners instead of profile pipe a thick reinforcing rod is used.

Door assembly

The work of assembling a metal door is carried out in several stages.

Assembling the box

You need to make blanks for the box from the corrugated pipe, cut the corners inward at an angle of 90°, lay out the corner into a rectangle, secure it with clamps and weld it in place.

Afterwards, we check the perpendicularity of the sides with a square, and also measure the distance between diagonally opposite pairs of angles and compare, the resulting measurements should be equal.

If there is a misalignment, then you will need additional adjustment. If everything is in order, then we perform final welding and grinding of the seams.

We will use the same scheme a little later to assemble the door frame.

We weld metal mounting plates to the box.

Assembling the door leaf

Here we need a new measurement - we take measurements along the inner walls of the door frame.

By stepping back 7-10 cm on each side, we get the actual dimensions of the frame of our metal door.

We saw sections of the required length from the corners and carry out preliminary processing, similar to the blank for a door frame.

We place the prepared corners inside the finished box, forming a rectangle, and carry out a control measurement of the correctness of the design.

If necessary, we make adjustments and weld the joints tightly.

We proceed to the manufacture of the door leaf, for which we lay the steel sheet on the table (horses), place the finished frame on top and draw a contour of the required dimensions, retreating from the outer edges of the frame by about 10 cm.

We cut the sheet along the contour, grind the cut points and weld it to the frame.

Be careful, to avoid deformation, do not weld with a continuous, unbroken seam.

It is much more functional to weld in lengths of about 30 mm at intervals of 15-20 mm in the direction from the center to the edges of the product.

Take your time, periodically let the door cool down, otherwise hidden defects may appear, and the door will have to be repaired within a short period of time.

Place the door leaf on the table outer side down, you need to install a door frame on top.

Using pads 2-5 mm thick around the entire perimeter, the position of the box relative to the frame is adjusted.

A sealing tape will later be installed into this gap, which will improve the qualities of the door such as sound insulation.

On the finished door leaf, we make cuts for the internal lock and, if necessary, for the peephole, drill holes for attaching the door handle, and carefully sand the edges of the holes.

The size of the cut for the lock should be such that its installation is free of play, but provides access to the lock if repairs are required.

We will embed the lock itself and install the fittings a little later.

If you are using the padlock, then you need to install linings for it at the same level of the door leaf and frame.

We attach the halves to the door frame door hinges with grooves, weld the second parts of the hinges (with pins pointing upward) in the appropriate places to the door frame so that they are located on the same axis, grind the welding points.

Some hinges are equipped with holes for lubrication; in this case, their installation should provide access to the service holes and the ability to remove the door if repairs need to be made.

Wipe metal structure from dust and chips, so that hidden defects do not appear after painting, we apply anti-corrosion protection, on top of which, after drying, you can perform tinting or make a decorative finish.

You can learn more about the manufacturing process of a metal entrance door in more detail and visually using the video below.

We mount the door

We place the door frame in the opening and make adjustments using a plumb line and level so that you don’t have to make repairs in the near future.

Having achieved the correct position of the frame, we carry out installation, securing the steel hinges to the wall using anchors, and hanging the door leaf on the hinges.

We check - if the installation is done correctly, the metal door will close and open without distortion, without catching on the door frame, and the hinges will move effortlessly.

At the final stage, the peephole is installed, the lock is inserted and the handle is installed.

The lock and handle are bolted to the door so that they can be repaired or replaced without any problems in the future.

After installing the lock, rub the end sides of the bolts with chalk and make marks on the door frame. We cut out the metal according to the resulting marks, forming grooves for the crossbars.

To further protect the lock from possible hacking, we weld a piece of corner to the door leaf at the exit points of the crossbars; it also makes sense to reinforce the door leaf at the place where the lock is installed by welding a 6 mm thick steel sheet on its inside.

At the same stage, adjustments are made to the operation of the lock and the tightness of closing the door.

Another video for those doing repairs gives very relevant recommendations on how to properly strengthen the door and install the lock, and how to adjust it.

Now you can begin the final finishing.

At the very beginning of the article, it was already mentioned that the metal door at the entrance to the house should perform some functions, such as sound insulation, preventing foreign odors and low-temperature air from outside from entering the room.

Ordinary polystyrene foam is generally recognized as the most practical, effective and cheapest insulating material for finishing doors.

We cut the foam into pieces of the required size and place them without gaps in the space of the door leaf between the stiffeners.

For better sealing, we will use polyurethane foam, which we will use to seal the space between the foam plastic and the stiffeners, around the lock, and we will also foam the internal space of the stiffeners through pre-drilled holes.

Sound insulation is also excellently provided by mineral wool.

The inside of a metal door can be sheathed wooden slats, MDF panels or other finishing material, and glue sealing tape around the perimeter of the door leaf.

We foam the installation gaps between door frame and doorway slopes. Our design is ready for use!

Now you can be sure that there are no hidden defects in this design, the quality of the metal entrance door is 100%, and doing the work yourself has allowed you to save a considerable amount from the family budget when performing repairs.

The installation of a metal entrance door is demonstrated to us by craftsmen in this video tutorial.

It's no secret that today such an element as a metal entrance door is not a luxury, but a mandatory attribute of any residential premises, including a private house or apartment, as well as various administrative and office buildings.

Thanks to modern technology development and the emergence innovative materials You can design with your own hands any, even the most complex, item needed in everyday life. Steel door was no exception: if you have some construction skills, you can easily equip this element yourself, thereby saving yourself from the need to overpay for the installation of a ready-made model. In addition, it is much more pleasant to arrange your home at your own discretion, without using templates. Therefore, we should take a closer look at how competently it should be. But first, you should pay attention to the list of advantages that this functional part of the house has.

The main advantages of a metal door

Thanks to the ability to use modern materials for insulation, this element can provide excellent protection from noise and from cold entering the room, which is especially important in cold climates. Insulated metal doors are a guarantee that you will not freeze in your home.

Another reason to create such an irreplaceable attribute of everyday life with your own hands is an excellent appearance, which makes it possible to turn a seemingly standard part of the home into a unique and unique element with high aesthetic qualities.

Perhaps the main advantage of a metal door is its high resistance to burglary, coupled with the possibility of installing additional protective equipment(various limiters, etc.). This will completely protect the home from the entry of unwanted persons and will save the nerves of its owners.

It is these advantages that are the key factors influencing such a decision,

Doorway measurements

As with any other task, you must first complete everything necessary calculations. When making an element such as a metal door, you first need to take measurements of the opening with your own hands. The door leaf and frame will be designed in accordance with them. It is important to remember that it is extremely important to subtract 2 cm from all the parameters obtained during the measurement process. This small gap will subsequently make it possible to adjust and align the door in the opening. Measurements must be taken for the entire length and width of the desired hole, that is, starting from the base in the form of brick or concrete, and not from plaster. It needs to be done this way because finishing material can be applied in a thick layer, and if the parameters are incorrectly calculated finished door may not coincide with the actual indicators of the installation site.

Tools and materials for work

The equipment required to make a metal door yourself includes the following set of tools:

• welding table;
• an angle grinder equipped with a metal wheel;
• welding machine;
• screwdriver;
• drill with several drills;
• roulette and others measuring instruments;
• and screwdrivers.

As for the actual materials that will make up the door, their set is as follows:

• metal corners for the box or a steel pipe with a square profile;
• sheathing material in the form of plywood, veneer, boards, etc.;
• metal sheet with a thickness of at least 1.5 mm;
• door hinges;
• accessories (handle, locks);
• fastening elements (screws, bolts, etc.).

Door frame design

It’s absolutely possible to do it yourself, and all the work should start with making a box for it. This element consists of securely welded corners, which form its basis. It should be remembered that after installing vertically and horizontally located parts, it is necessary to leave gaps that will be required in the future.

It is necessary to place a corner or square-shaped profile on the welding table and cut it according to the required parameters. The finished parts need to be laid out in a rectangle and all the parameters must be checked again.

It is very important that all angles are exactly 90°, so you need to carefully study the diagonals, measuring the distance from one end to the other. Once all calculations are completed, you can begin welding the door frame. At this stage, it is allowed to make slits in it. For this, use a grinder.

When installing an element such as a metal door with your own hands, the drawings must be made as correctly as possible so that the design fully complies with the pre-drawn project. Otherwise, the result of the work may not be at all what was originally expected.

Door leaf installation

First of all, you should clearly determine the size of the potential canvas. To do this, you need to measure the parameters of the inside of the box and leave a gap of about 0.5 cm on each side. It is based on these indicators that a metal door should be made with your own hands, the drawings for which, in turn, help to complete all the work as quickly and efficiently as possible.

Next, you need to weld a frame consisting of corners intended for the canvas. The process of making it resembles in its actions the creation of a box. From the inside, parts of the corner must be welded to the frame at the same distance from each other. These elements will serve as stiffeners.

The next procedure that should be performed when making a house element such as a metal door with your own hands is to cut out a steel sheet. It must correspond to the parameters of the frame, and it is extremely important to maintain an allowance of 1 cm on each side, as well as 0.5 cm on the side of the hinges. This sheet must be welded evenly to the door base, while not forgetting to remove any burrs that appear and correct uneven seams using a grinder. At this point, the manufacture of the door leaf can be considered complete.

Fixing a metal door on hinges

These elements must be welded according to a special scheme. As a rule, one of the hinge parts, which has a special pin, is first attached to the box. Its second part is fixed directly on the canvas. It is very important to pay attention to the drawing of the metal door, according to which you should correctly calculate all dimensions and measure the required distance for installing the hinges.

It is necessary that both of these functional parts match perfectly. This will not only avoid distortion of the entire structure, but will also improve its tightness and extend its service life.

When installing insulated metal doors, do not forget that for laying insulation it is also necessary to leave some free space inside the door leaf. This procedure will be more complicated, but such a measure will definitely protect the entire structure from the penetration of cold.

Upon completion of the installation of the hinges, it is necessary to clean the seams, if necessary, and then paint finished design.

Equipping a metal door with fittings

When thinking about how to make a metal door of the highest quality, you should not forget that to create a reliable model Special attention It is worth paying attention to such an important matter as installing and fixing the lock mechanism.

For this work, you will need to purchase two different types of samples, which during installation should be positioned as conveniently as possible. It is very important that each of the elements of the lock fits the other, and that the entire system interacts smoothly and easily. A drawing of a metal door, of course, cannot reflect this, but it will be much better if the mechanism does not create unnecessary sounds (creaking, grinding, etc.) during opening.

After this, it is recommended to cut a special hole in the door leaf, intended for the installation of a good and modern door peephole, having wide angle overview and, if necessary, closing. At this point, work with fittings can be considered completed.

Installing a metal door in an opening

To insert a ready-made door structure into the opening, the strength of at least two people will be required, since it will be problematic to do this work alone. In addition, you need to pay special attention to the following points:

• The box should be positioned geometrically evenly. All measurements can be taken using a building level.
• The structure must be fixed securely and tightly.
• All gaps formed between the wall and the door must be sealed using polyurethane foam.

The installation of the metal door is completed with another check of the reliability of the lock mechanism. In addition, you should make sure that the system opens in the desired direction easily and without any interference and closes just as easily.

A good addition to the aesthetic appearance will be the device as well as the design of its slopes. Such procedures will not only make the structure more beautiful, but will also increase its specifications, improving thermal and sound insulation.

Working with such a modern and necessary attribute of the home as a metal door, you can not only make the model itself with your own hands, but also decorate it beautifully.

Here, as always, the basis of the design is solely the preferences and tastes of the owners, but we should not forget about this important factor, as operating conditions, since it is not always possible to decorate different doors in the same way due to some external factors: climate, type of construction, etc.

As an option, you can use veneer or MDF; polymer painting is also suitable. This type of finishing, such as covering the door with a special film that protects against external mechanical damage, is also gaining increasing popularity.

One way or another, a metal door can be designed in different ways, but the main thing is that this element clearly performs its functions and is able to serve for a long time and reliably.