Apr 02 2017

Quarantus - care and reproduction at home

Everyone who has seen a catharanthus indoor plant will agree that this spectacular bush, strewn with delightful numerous flowers, clearly brings the comfort and warmth of the southern islands of the Mediterranean into the house. Its name is translated from Greek as "pure, clear or flawless flower." In this article, you will read about growing catharanthus and caring for it at home. Many flower growers consider him the king of indoor flowering bushes, because the catharanthus pleases its owners with almost endless flowering. all year round, and requires minimal care from them after landing.

The catharanthus flower (Catharanthus) belongs to the evergreen herbaceous and semi-shrub plants of the Kutrovye family (Apocynaceae). In the wild, it can be found everywhere in tropical countries. These are Cuba, Java, Africa, Indochina, Indonesia - it's impossible to list them all. It is not possible to accurately determine its homeland, although many scientists are inclined to Madagascar, where it is most common. There are seven or eight of its species. In the subtropics, the catharanthus grows up to one and a half meters in height. At home, this bush does not exceed 60 cm. As a houseplant, catharanthus has been bred since the middle of the 18th century.

For a long time, the catharanthus was considered one of the varieties of another flower - pink periwinkle. These plants are very similar. Both belong to the Kutrov family. Only since 1937, after lengthy disputes, did botanists begin to attribute pink catharanthus (Catharanthus roseus), as a species of evergreen perennial shrubs, to a separate genus of Catharanthus.

Indoor flower catharanthus is a perennial plant, often grown as an annual. In height at home, it grows no higher than 50 - 60 cm. Its upright stems are fleshy, branch on tops, and become woody over time. The roots are powerful, pivotal. The central root reaches a depth of 20-30 cm, there are many lateral adventitious roots that have a strong specific smell. Young roots lack root hairs. The leaves of the catharanthus are oblong in shape, pointed at both ends, and up to 7 cm long. They are glossy, dark green in color, with a white longitudinal vein. During flowering, the entire bush is covered with many wheel-shaped flowers. Catharanthus flowers are 3 to 5 cm in diameter. They have correct form of five petals with a flat corolla, the throat of which is covered with thyroid hairs. In the center of each flower there is a peephole, usually of a bright contrasting color. There are hybrids with white, orange, light lilac, blue-violet petals. Catharanthus flowers are very similar to phlox flowers, but they are solitary, while in phlox they are collected in inflorescences. But, during active flowering, from May to October, such a magnificent hat is formed from separately blooming flowers that the decorativeness of the flower at this time is beyond praise. Long flowering ends with the onset of cold weather. After flowering, the fruit of the catharanthus is formed, which is a sickle-shaped double leaf, inside which about a dozen elongated seeds are formed.

Medicinal properties

The catharanthus plant is valued not only for its spectacular appearance and decorative effect. Its medicinal properties have been known since ancient times. Healers and healers of Madagascar and Indonesia used catharanthus to treat diabetes, coughs and various tumors. The green parts of the plant contain up to 60 biologically active alkaloids. Modern research has shown that indeed this flower contains substances that reduce blood sugar. And the alkaloids vinblastine and vincristine formed the basis of anticancer drugs that are used in modern medicine. All kinds of infusions and decoctions are prepared from the leaves and shoots of the catharanthus, which treat many diseases, such as:

• poorly healing wounds and trophic ulcers;
• fibroids, polyps, prostate adenomas;
• diseases of the teeth and gums;
• broncho-pulmonary diseases;
• hypertension and diabetes.

It is important to know that all parts of the catharanthus are poisonous. It is not recommended to prepare any medicine from it yourself! Side effects, allergic reactions, burns may occur. There are contraindications. You can use preparations from catharanthus only under the supervision and on the recommendation of doctors.

Species and varieties

All decorative series of varieties and hybrids of this flower are a variety of pink catharanthus. They differ from it in the size of the bush and different shades of petals. We will introduce you to the most popular of them.

This is a low bush, 50 cm in height. The flowers are relatively large - up to 5 cm in diameter. The color range is varied - from pure white to dark red. In the middle, a contrast eye usually sparkles. This flower is grown not only as a houseplant, but also as a garden plant, decorating them with borders in flower beds and paths.

This is a low compact bush, 25 - 30 cm in height, and 15 - 20 cm in crown diameter. It is characterized by early flowering and unpretentious care. The flowers are large, a characteristic eye in the middle stands out brightly.

Depending on the shade of the petals, the Pacifica variety has its own varieties:

• Pacific Burgundy - has rich wine-colored flowers with a white eye;
• Pacific White - has white flowers with a red eye;
• Pacifica Epricot - has apricot-colored flowers with a red center;
• Pacifica Ice Pink - has pale pink flowers with a red eye.

In the 1980s, there appeared whole line new spectacular varieties of catharanthus. Here are some of the popular ones so far:

Variety series Cooler (Culer). Small strongly branching bushes, up to 40 cm in height, united here. Their flowers are round, large, up to 5 cm in diameter. With a bright contrast eye in the center.

The varieties in this series include:

• Grape Cooler - lavender-pink flowers with a red center;
• Peppermint Cooler - white flowers with a bright red center;
• Red Cooler - red flowers.

Sortoseriya First Kiss (First Kiss, First kiss). Low, 30 - 40 cm in height, neat bushes, have beautiful crown and at least 13 shades of colors. This is the most popular and titled series of catharanthus. At flower growers' competitions in North America, the catharanthus of this variety series won prestigious prizes, in particular, the blue-violet cultivar First Kiss Blueberry won high awards in the USA and Canada.

Variety series Cascade (Cascade). Here are ampelous catharanthus, up to 15 cm high and with long flexible shoots that either creep or hang down. It blooms with large flowers, up to 5 cm in diameter. The most popular varieties of this variety series:

Quaranthus ampelous Titan. Long whips hanging down reach 75 cm in length. Numerous bright red flowers burn brightly on dark green glossy leaves. This variety is excellent for growing in pots.

• White - with snow-white flowers;
• Deep Rose - with pink flowers;
• Bark cascade Cherry - with cherry flowers;
• Bark cascade Shelf Dot - with white flowers;
• Bark cascade Mejent - with flowers of gray - burgundy color.

Home care

When growing catharanthus at home, it is important to follow some simple rules so that you have a wonderful evergreen bush.

All parts of the catharanthus are poisonous and contain alkaloids. Work with it must be carried out with gloves to avoid allergies or poisoning.

Humidity, spraying, watering

Kataranthus is a moisture-loving culture. Abundant flowering directly depends on the sufficiently high humidity of the ambient air and the substrate. Quaranthus prefer high humidity air. If humidity readings fall below 60%, spraying of the surrounding air and, with care, the plants themselves is necessary. Moreover, the leaves can be sprayed, but the flowers are not desirable! To increase the humidity in the room, place containers with water next to the catharanthus plantings, and place the pots themselves in trays with wet expanded clay or wet pebbles.

Water your flowers regularly. Drying of the root system must not be allowed! You will immediately know about insufficient watering by the twisting leaves of the plant. If you quickly notice and soon water, they will straighten out.

But there should be no stagnation of water in the pan and waterlogging of the soil. Try to choose the frequency of watering so that the soil moisture is consistently average. Water no earlier than the top layer of soil dries to a depth of 2 - 3 cm. If you plan to keep the plant until next year, in the autumn winter period reduce watering significantly. Keep the earth ball slightly damp. If the air in the room is dry, spray the leaves constantly.

Lighting

The plant prefers diffused light. On the windowsills of the eastern and western directions, he will be most comfortable. Although, on the south side, provided the pot is protected from direct sunlight at noon, the catharanthus will feel great. Not required to post flower pot on the very windowsill. It grows well in a small shade and looks great on a shelf illuminated by scattered sunlight. Under the condition of wintering indoors, he will also need good lighting. Otherwise, the stems will stretch upwards, and the decorative effect of the flower will suffer. If there is insufficient lighting, use fluorescent lamps.

Temperature

The ideal temperature for growing catharanthus at home is 20 - 25 degrees Celsius. It's in spring- summer period for long-term maintenance of a flower. IN winter time for him it is necessary to find more cool place and maintain the temperature there within 15 degrees, because on the windowsill, next to the heating appliances, it does not belong. Perhaps you have an insulated loggia. But, it is necessary to ensure that the temperature does not decrease at all - a long decrease in it, below 10 degrees, may not endure the catharanthus.

If you are not going to keep the flower in the winter and plan to throw it away in the fall, after flowering, then the warmer the location, the more abundantly it will bloom for you. Moreover, the flower feels great in warm time years outdoors. In the spring, as soon as the air outside warms up above 18 degrees, the catharanthus pot can be placed on a balcony or veranda, preferably under a roof, because flower plantings must be protected from precipitation, drafts and direct sun. With the first cold snap, in August-September, it is better to bring the catharanthus into the living quarters. Until October, he will still delight you with his magnificent flowering on the windowsill.

Soil and top dressing

Well kataranthus will grow in loose light fertile soil. Purchased land for flowering houseplants, for example, for geraniums, is suitable for him. It is also not difficult to prepare a soil mixture on your own from leaf and sod land, adding a little peat and coarse river sand there.

In order for the flowering of the catharanthus to be long and plentiful, it needs constant, fairly intensive top dressing. If your flower is an annual, feed it once a week by adding liquid fertilizer for flowering houseplants to the water for irrigation. Suitable liquid fertilizer for indoor roses. But do not overdo it, read the doses on the package.

If the catharanthus after flowering will be preserved as a perennial, its strength must be preserved. Therefore, top dressing should be done during flowering less often, once every 2 weeks, and at a dose reduced by half. After flowering, from October to February, top dressing should be stopped altogether.

The right size pot

Quaranthus is a fast growing flower. If you plant it in a small pot, it will outgrow it very soon, the roots won't fit and will block the drainage holes. Therefore, choose a large pot right away, so that it is enough for a year of the flower's life. As we wrote above, the root system is developing well, the roots grow up to 20 - 35 cm in length. Lay a good layer of drainage, 3-4 cm, on the bottom of the planting tank. Use expanded clay, pebbles or other suitable material. And then fill the pot with the prepared soil mixture. Do not forget to add a little humus for nutrition. During the annual transplant of perennial catharanthus, each time choose a pot 3 - 5 cm larger and wider than before.

Pruning and shaping the bush

For such a fast-growing plant as catharanthus, pruning of shoots is a necessary procedure. In a perennial culture, after a period of winter rest, the shoots stretched out over the winter are cut off by a third of their length. Remove damaged and dried branches, give the bush the desired shape. This pruning in early spring will rejuvenate the flower, give it strength for new growth.

Pinching the ends of the shoots will help to form a compact beautiful crown of a young catharanthus. Their upward growth will stop, and the growth of side branches will make the crown thicker and more decorative.

But watch out decorative look your pet during flowering will have to constantly. Withered flowers and yellowed leaves at the bottom of the shoots must be cleaned regularly - they greatly spoil the appearance of the plant.

Transfer

If you grow catharanthus as a perennial, then it will need an annual transplant in early spring, in March.

Return the flower to a warm, bright room. Look around. Make the desired cut. Pick up a pot for transplanting 3 - 5 cm more than before. Put drainage there - it should be at least 4 cm. Transplant by transshipping the flower along with the ground. Try not to injure the root system. Add soil of the same composition to the pot in which the catharanthus grew last season. If the soil is very different in composition, the flower may not bloom. According to the reaction, the soil is neutral or slightly sour. Keep this in mind and always use one type of soil, for example, for flowering geraniums.

You may need to repot your flower more than once a year. If during the active phase of flowering the lower leaves suddenly began to turn yellow and flowers fall off - Perhaps the root system no longer has enough space in the pot. You can see the roots sticking out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. This is a signal that the catharanthus urgently needs to be transplanted into a large container.

If the catharanthus is difficult to remove from the pot, try watering it. The plastic pot may need to be cut or broken, but when removing the flower, be careful not to damage its delicate root system. Otherwise, the catharanthus will stop blooming.

If you regularly follow all the rules of good flower care, then the catharanthus will also try and stun you with its fantastic flowering!

We recommend not keeping your perennial for more than three years. Any catharanthus of this age begins to grow, its flowers become small, the shoots are clumsy. The plant loses its attractiveness and decorative effect. It is better to part with him, having taken care of his descendants in advance, that is, about reproduction.

reproduction

After the enchanting flowering, the forces of the catharanthus are depleted, and you need to try to make it bloom again the next year. For this reason, flower growers often grow catharanthus as an annual plant, and after flowering is over, they are simply thrown away. After all, the difficulties of preserving a flower in winter, problems with temperature, humidity, and lighting of its wintering place cannot be compared with the rooting of its shoots or cuttings. By the beginning of the new season, you will have a new flower full of strength and desire to bloom without any problems.

Catharanthus is propagated in three ways: growing from seeds, rooting cuttings and dividing the bush.

Growing from seed

Buy catharanthus seeds at specialty stores. Their seeds during the summer flowering will not have time to ripen. Their natural maturation is possible only in tropical conditions. If you still set out to get your seeds - be patient. The bush will have to be grown all autumn and winter at room conditions, maintaining a constant temperature, humidity and good lighting, as in the tropics. Your seeds will ripen, perhaps only by spring.

Seeds can be sown at any time of the year. Just keep in mind that the catharanthus blooms after germination in 60 - 70 days, that is, young bushes will bloom in two to three months. Therefore, it is better, in terms of caring for them - in terms of temperature, humidity and lighting, to do this in early spring.

Prepared seeds (treated with potassium permanganate and epin) are sown in containers with nutrient soil to a depth of no more than 1 cm. The soil is gently moistened with a spray bottle with warm settled water, the container lid is closed. You can use any containers convenient for you, but be sure to cover them with something transparent - glass or polyethylene. Germination will be best done in a warm, dark place. In a week or two shoots will appear. Containers are taken out to a lighted place. The temperature is maintained at 23 - 26 degrees Celsius. Ventilate once a day better in the morning. Sprouts for a long time, about a month, sit at the same level - they grow roots. When three or four leaves appear on the seedlings, the catharanthus dive into separate pots. Do not forget about the rapid growth of the young, immediately take a pot of a large size than you would like, so that soon, during flowering, you do not have to replant the flower again.

Pay special attention to the preparation of the soil mixture. An excellent option is a mixture of peat, humus, soddy soil and coarse sand in equal proportions. If you use ready-made soil, choose a substrate suitable for flowering indoor flowers.

Reproduction by cuttings

For propagation by cuttings (cuttings), green cuttings are cut from the tops of the shoots near the catharanthus. Choose the method of rooting the cutting - in water or in the substrate.

Water for rooting is taken settled or boiled with the addition of some kind of growth stimulant. Put the glass in a bright warm place. Waiting for the appearance of the spine. As needed, add water. Roots will appear very soon. Then the stalk is planted in a pot with a regular substrate. Take care of like an adult plant.

You can root the cuttings in a container with moist soil under the film. Air plantings from time to time, as the soil dries, water them. When signs of new growth appear on the handle, the film can be removed. Root cuttings with a margin, in case of their death.

Harvesting and planting cuttings is best in the spring, after pruning the old bush. But you can do it in the fall too. Optimum temperature for rooting cuttings of catharanthus - 22 - 25 degrees Celsius.

Video: how to propagate catharanthus cuttings.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

This method of reproduction is used during the transplantation of an adult plant into new pots. Usually, it happens in early spring. Depending on the size of the root system, the catharanthus can be easily divided into two or three parts. Remove the flower from the pot, try to gently shake the soil from the roots. Decide on the place of division of the root system. Use a sharp, well-disinfected tool to divide the bush. Treat the incision sites with crushed activated charcoal. Plant each specimen in a separate pot according to all the rules.

Organization of wintering

If you are planting your indoor flower in a summer cottage in a flower bed for the summer, then you need to think about how to save the catharanthus in winter. After all, your sissy will not survive the winter, even mild, on the street. Carefully dig up the plant in early October. Trim the branches two-thirds of the way. Place the flower in a spacious pot to fit the entire root system. Fill the pot to the top with a mixture of sand and earth. Bring in a cool room with a temperature of 15 - 17 degrees. Try to find one for the winter in the apartment. Let him stand there until the onset of spring and warmth. It does not need to be watered in winter. When the air outside warms up above 18 degrees, the rhizome of the catharanthus can be planted again in a flower bed.

Possible Growing Problems

You can always determine by the appearance of the plant whether it is healthy or something is wrong with it. Catharanthus to his appearance itself signals adverse conditions its content. The plant must be monitored, and, if necessary, take measures to correct their mistakes.

Consider the most common problems of growing catharanthus.

Diseases

• Small dark bumps or spots appeared on the upper surface of the leaves. On the bottom - something in the form of pustules. These are signs of the disease of many indoor flowers - leaf rust. The reason is frequent waterlogging of the soil at high humidity. Or when transplanting, a heavy or rust-infected soil was used. Treatment is carried out with fungicides (read about). Transplant the treated plant into new soil.
• The leaves on the shoots became lethargic, turned yellow and fell off. This happens if the pot is on a window sill that is not protected from the sun. Set the flower to the back of the room or protect it from direct sunlight with blinds or curtains.
• The tips of the leaves turned yellow. This happens when the humidity in the room is too low. In winter this is due to the central heating. The pot must be placed in a tall pan with wet claydite and set aside from heating appliances away. Next to the flower, you can place a wide container of water. If there are no flowers on the catharanthus, its leaves should be sprayed with settled water at room temperature. All this should increase the humidity in the room. The tips of the leaves of the catharanthus will stop turning yellow.
• The lower leaves on the shoots turn yellow and fall off. This is a natural process for a catharanthus. Remove them regularly from the plant so that the decorative effect of the flower does not suffer.
• There are few flowers on your catharanthus. Poor flowering usually happens if the catharanthus is cold. Move the flower pot to a warmer, brighter place - and he will thank you with abundant flowering.
• The leaves begin to turn yellow, flowering stops. Examine the flower pot. If it is not large, if the roots of the catharanthus appeared from the drainage holes, it means that your pet has become cramped in this pot and it's time to transplant it into a wider and deeper flowerpot. It will take a little time, and the plant will come to life and begin to bloom.
• The quarantus began dropping buds. This happens when there is insufficient attention to the flower: poor lighting, lack of moisture in the soil or low air humidity.
• Young leaves are falling from the tops of the shoots. Perhaps you rarely water the flower, it lacks moisture. At the same time, check other nuances of care: whether it is warm, light, and whether any insects bite it.

Insects - pests

We introduced you to the catharanthus indoor flower. Believe that you will spend less time caring for him than reading this article! This is a completely unpretentious plant, but so sweet and responsive to any attention to it from the grower. Kataranthus is good because this small, compact bush blooms profusely with bright acrylic flowers from spring to October. At the same time, it grows quickly and multiplies easily. Knowing the simple rules for caring for it, you will always have a grateful plant in your house, ready to decorate the interior of your house all year round.

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Catharanthus is a very decorative and hardy plant that grows equally well indoors and in the garden. It belongs to the Kutrovye family and is common in the light tropical forests of Madagascar. Most of our compatriots know the catharanthus called "periwinkle", "Madagascar vinca", "lonera", " spinster or cayenne jasmine. Since the flower does not tolerate cold well, it is grown in the garden as an annual. In pots and in the south of the country, he will live in one place for several years, delighting delicate flowers and dense juicy greens.

plant description

Quaranthus is an annual or perennial evergreen plant. It has a tap root system, which is covered with many filamentous processes and goes 25-35 cm deep into the ground. Upright shoots form dense, highly branched bushes up to 60 cm high. In the natural environment, the height of the shrub can reach 1.5 m.

All shoots are covered with smooth green or pinkish bark. They grow opposite sessile or short-leaved leaves. The foliage is oval in shape with a rounded or sharp edge. The length of the leaflet is 2.5-8 cm, and the width is 3 cm. The smooth leathery surface is colored dark green. A thin whitish vein is clearly visible in the center.

The catharanthus blooms in late spring. The buds open alternately, so flowering can continue indoors even in winter. Flowers bloom in the axils of the leaves and on the tops of the shoots, gathering in loose brushes. The corolla, up to 3 cm in diameter, is spike-shaped and consists of five obovate or wedge-shaped petals fused at the base. The central part of the flower is a narrow tube, from which bright yellow anthers barely peek out.

After pollination, sickle-shaped leaflets ripen up to 5 cm in length and up to 3 mm in width. Inside are small elongated black seeds with a rough surface.

Species diversity

Currently, the genus of catharanthus includes 8 main species and several ornamental varieties. In culture, only pink catharanthus can be found. It is a low branched subshrub with dark green oblong leaves and five-petalled flowers in white and various shades of pink.

Hybrid varieties are very diverse. For convenience, they are divided into varietal groups, within which plants may differ in structure, color of flowers and leaves, as well as the flowering period. The most interesting are the following groups:

Growing from seed

Seed propagation allows you to quickly get many healthy plants. In May, you can sow seeds immediately in open ground. To do this, make shallow grooves in a well-lit area. Seeds are evenly distributed with a distance of 3-5 cm and covered with earth. The soil after sowing is watered with care. Grown plants can be transplanted. Kataranthus usually blooms 2-2.5 months after sowing.

Seedlings begin to grow in early spring. Plant it in small containers with loose, fertile soil. You can use soil for geraniums or make up the soil mixture yourself from:

• leaf land;
• humus;
• sand;
• peat;
• sod land.

Before sowing, the seeds are soaked for several hours in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and then distributed at a distance of 3-4 cm at a depth of 1.5-2 cm. The container is covered with a lid or film. It is kept in a well-lit place at a temperature of +24…+25°C.

Shoots begin to appear in a week, after which the shelter is removed. Tender seedlings are watered with care and in small portions. After 2-3 weeks, with the appearance of four true leaves, a pick is carefully carried out on individual peat pots. You need to be very careful not to damage the long root. It is important to maintain high humidity.

At the end of May, seedlings begin to be taken out into the street for hardening. Transplanting into open ground can only be done when the average daily air temperature is + 20 ° C and above.

On the permanent place catharanthus is planted in groups of 2-3 plants to form larger bushes. The distance between such bushes should be 30-70 cm, depending on the size of the plant of a particular variety.

Vegetative propagation

A large bush of catharanthus can be propagated by division. To do this, in the spring, during transplantation, the root is cut into 2-3 parts with a sharp blade. The places of cuts are sprinkled with crushed charcoal and the delenki are immediately planted in separate pots.

In the spring, during pruning, the tops of the stems can be rooted. Do this in a moist sandy-peat soil mixture. For the rooting period, it is recommended to cover the cuttings with a transparent cap and place them in a well-lit place. Plants need to be aired and sprayed daily. After rooting, the shelter is removed and flowers are grown as usual.

Home care

Catharanthus are unpretentious plants, they are suitable for flower growers with little experience. However, to achieve abundant flowering and lush crown can only be done by following a set of rules.

Lighting. The flower loves intense diffused lighting. On the street, it is planted in open areas or in light partial shade. Indoor plants are placed on the east or west windowsill. From the midday rays indoors, the bushes should be shaded, but with regular ventilation or in the fresh air, direct sunlight is not terrible for them. It is very important to protect the catharanthus from drafts.

Temperature. This heat-loving plant feels best at a temperature of + 20 ... + 25 ° C. In winter, it is necessary to provide a period of rest and lower the temperature to +12…+18°C. If this is not possible, additional lighting is required. Without it, the stems will stretch and lose their decorative effect.

Humidity. Bushes that are kept at high humidity look the most beautiful. Dry air slows down growth, and the tips of the leaves dry out and curl. It is necessary to spray the flower daily, in hot weather this is done several times a day. It is good if there is an aquarium or a pallet with wet pebbles nearby.

Watering. The plant needs to be watered frequently and plentifully so that the soil is always slightly moist. Prolonged stagnation of water is contraindicated, it is also necessary to empty the pan after each irrigation. Water for irrigation is used warm and well purified.

Fertilizer. From April to September, catharanthus is fed twice a month. Mineral complexes with a high content of phosphorus and potassium are used. Before flowering, it is recommended to apply one organic top dressing.

Pruning. Young plants are regularly pinched to form a large number of lateral processes. In the spring, the bushes are cut by a third, this allows you to keep a neat look longer.

Transfer. Fast growing bushes require an annual transplant. At indoor cultivation the procedure is carried out in the spring by transshipment, so as not to damage the roots. Pots should be deep enough and not too wide. For the summer, you can plant plants in open ground, and in the fall, before the onset of cold weather, be sure to return them to flowerpots.

Using a catharanthus

Compact dense bushes with bright flowers will be an excellent decoration for borders and the first plan of a flower bed. They are often grown in containers and boxes for landscaping balconies and terraces, as well as regular houseplants. Quaranthus ampelous planted in a flowerpot. Its beautiful green cascade with multi-colored buds attracts a lot of attention and amazes with a delicate aroma. Quarantus can be used as in flower arrangements and as a ground cover plant. It pairs well with periwinkle, lobelia, balsam and petunia.

In addition to decorative, medicinal properties of the plant are also known. Cataranthus juice contains about 20 alkaloids. With their help, it is possible to reduce the size of benign and malignant tumors, polyps, adenomas. Compresses with alcohol tincture of herbs are used to treat psoriasis, eczema and dermatitis of various origins.

For all its usefulness, the catharanthus is a poisonous plant. Wash your hands thoroughly after handling it. If there are children and animals in the house, the flower must be placed in a place inaccessible to them.

Kataranthus is an unpretentious and very pretty flower, which is better known as the pink periwinkle, feels great in the garden in the flower bed, containers, and also in pots on the windowsills. The plant is small, compact, branchy and, importantly, fast growing and easy to propagate. But in order for the catharanthus to please the eye with its impeccable flowering for a longer time, you still need to know some rules for caring for it.

To do this, it is best to take one part of peat, humus, coarse sand, turf and leafy soil. But, in general, any fertile soil for catharanthus is also suitable, especially if there is no excess of salts in it. For growing in pots, you can use the earth for geraniums. The main thing is not to forget about drainage, using fine expanded clay.

Like all plants, pink catharanthus loves water. Therefore, it should be watered regularly, but in no case should it be flooded, especially in containers or pots. Therefore, if the flower pot is not on a pallet with expanded clay, then it is better to pour out excess water from the pallet.

Flower growers who have pink periwinkle growing in the garden are well aware that in a rainy, too wet summer, plant growth slows down. A flower that is constantly flooded, if it also grows in too dense soil, may suddenly die due to rotting of the roots.

However, the earthy coma should not be brought to dryness. In some varieties of plants, lack of moisture leads to curling of the leaves. The leaves curl up into tubes, and it seems that the flower has died. But don't despair right away. Abundant watering - and in an hour the leaves will unwind again.

So that in rainy weather the catharanthus does not suffer from excessive moisture, do not plant it too crowded. It should also not be too crowded to plant plants in a container: after all, spraying is a little rain.

Once every ten days, water your periwinkle with a special fertilizer containing potassium and phosphorus. Suitable fertilizer for roses. A home flower will thank you for this with a particularly spectacular bloom.

If the catharanthus does not like too wet ground, then, on the contrary, it welcomes high humidity. Spray the flower more often, in winter it is better to do this with warm water. Also, take care of ventilation.

If the catharanthus grows in the house, then it should stand in a bright place. The more light, the better. In case of lack of lighting, the stems will stretch, become thinner, the flowers will become smaller, and their number will also be reduced. The east and west windows are great places to grow catharanthus. Pink periwinkle is a native of the tropics, so it loves warmth. Indoor temperature should not fall below 5-8 degrees. The optimal time is 15-30.

On the street to the bright sun, it is better to accustom the catharanthus gradually. When planting seedlings, think about whether this place will be protected from the cold wind. Draft and cold wind can destroy the plant.

Although the pink catharanthus is a distant relative for our familiar periwinkle, but, unlike it, it will not be able to spend the winter in a flower bed in the garden. A flower growing on the street will die with the onset of frost. Therefore, if you want to admire exactly the same variety of catharanthus next year, you need to break the cuttings and root them, transferring them to warm house. Even a room catharanthus in the summer is better to take out to the balcony and put it in a bright place. Let it "breathe" with fresh air.

You need to repot the plant often, every year, because the plant is fast-growing. Some even consider it a disadvantage. A plant growing in a pot, stretched out over the winter, needs to be cut every spring so that it bushes better. If the plant has become too stretched, violating the intended picture with its appearance, then you can cut it slightly in the summer. But we must remember that the flowers on the cut stem will appear only after two to three weeks. The main stem will become tree-like.

Although the catharanthus is a perennial (if it grows in a house or in its homeland), it is not worth keeping it at home for more than three years. Better plant rejuvenate by cuttings. Young plants look more impressive. But, if you cut the catharanthus by more than one third, then the flowers and leaves will become much smaller. (With good care, leaves reach seven centimeters, and flowers - five centimeters).

Pinch a flower planted in a flower bed as mercilessly as an indoor one, once a week for one and a half to two months. Thanks to such a merciless pinching, the flower bed will be simply gorgeous. After all, flowers appear at the tips of the stems, in the upper axils of the leaves. The more stems, the more flowers. Although it must be admitted that scientists have bred varieties in which branching is genetically incorporated.

Do not forget that the plant is poisonous. Eighty alkaloids contained in periwinkle rose is not a joke to you. Skin irritation may occur, so it is better to work with gloves or trim with small scissors.

In order for the catharanthus to be beautiful and blooming profusely, we must do the following:

• Water moderately, but regularly (not flooding).
• Spray frequently.
• Plant the plant in loose soil in a bright place.
• Repot every year.
• Prune annually in the spring.
• Fertilize three times a month in spring, summer and autumn.

If you fulfill all these simple care requirements, then the catharanthus, as a very grateful plant, will surely decorate your garden and house with its flowers in gratitude for the care.

Catharanthus seeds can be bought online, you can - in a regular store, or you can collect yourself from your plant to sow them next year. But, we must honestly admit that only an experienced grower can collect seeds from a catarthus on his own. It's all about temperate climate: in his conditions, they simply do not tie.

But on the windowsill it is quite possible. If there is additional lighting, then seeds can be sown for seedlings without waiting for spring, in February. Catharanthus seeds are not petunia seeds, which are difficult to see. Compared to petunias, they are large and powerful.

The sowing depth should not be more than one and a half centimeters. First, water the earth, wait until the water is absorbed, and only then proceed to sowing the seeds. Darkness is necessary for sown seeds. Therefore, they need to be covered with a dark film and patiently wait for the result for seven to ten days, if the temperature is about 23-24 degrees. When sprouts appear, the film is removed.

This is the official version of seed sowing. But from the experience of amateur gardeners, one can conclude that even without a film, the seeds also germinate perfectly. It is good to grow seeds in peat tablets. True, due to the small amount of soil, you need to carefully monitor the watering of the seedlings: do not overdry, do not overmoisten when you remove the film.

The sprouts that have appeared remain at the same level for a long time - they build up their root system. But do not rush to feed sprouted plants with fertilizer. From the moment the sprouts appear to the first feeding, at least two to three weeks should pass.

The first pick is carried out if the plant has already had four leaves. It is better to plant two or three plants in a pot, and then transfer them into open ground together, so as not to disturb the root system.

If you try to separate these bushes, then the woven roots will break, and the pink periwinkle endures such an operation very painfully, and then, if it does not die, it slows down in growth for a long time. The distance between such planted groups of plants should be at least thirty centimeters.

Kataranthus is a "fast" flower. Therefore, by the end of summer, he will already cover the ground with a flowering rug.

If you don’t have seeds, but it is possible to get a cutting, then growing in such a vegetative way will also not be difficult. The cuttings should not be stiff. Apical green cuttings are suitable for propagation of the periwinkle in a vegetative way. They take root perfectly in water, especially if a few drops of a stimulant are added there. And you can plant cuttings immediately in wet sand mixed with fertile soil. But in this case, it is better to cover them with a plastic bag or a regular jar. Cuttings can be rooted both in spring after pruning, and in autumn, cutting off green shoots from a plant growing outside. But the temperature, in order for the rooting of the cuttings to be successful, must be at least twenty degrees.

If the periwinkle grew outside in the summer, then before you bring the plant into the room, check to see if it has been attacked by aphids. Also, a spider mite and a scale insect can encroach on a flower. If this happened indoors, then the air for the flower is too dry. Spray the plant more often, and remove the pests with a brush dipped in alcohol and treat with special products. Not bad in this case, a soapy solution helps, which can also be used to process the leaves without harm to the plant. Also brown rust can attack the catharanthus. The leaves are then covered from below with "pustules".

Caring for a catharanthus - as well as for any house plant, you need to watch:

• If the leaves become soft, turn yellow and die off, this means that there is too much direct sunlight.
• If the tips of the leaves dry and turn yellow, then the plant does not have enough moisture in the air. This happens in the winter when the heating is on.
• If the yellowed lower leaves fall off, and the rest of the foliage is bright and green, you can not be scared - this is a natural process.
• Few flowers - cold air. The higher the temperature, the more abundant the catharanthus blooms.
• If the roots braid the whole earth in a pot, then the plant will stop blooming, the leaves will dry and turn yellow.

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Caring for a catharanthus

Well-lit places are suitable for Quaranthus, but without the scorching rays of the sun. An excellent option for a catharanthus would be eastern or western window sills.

On the south window, you will definitely need shading, since the bright sun can cause burns on the leaves.

In winter, it is recommended to move the plant to the southern window sill, because due to the lack of light, the shoots stretch out and lose their decorative effect. At this time, additional illumination with phytolamps or fluorescent lamps is welcome.

In the summer, the catharanthus will feel comfortable at 20-25 degrees. In winter, the temperature of the content should be reduced to 15-18 degrees.

Since catharanthus is a representative of the tropics, a strong drop in temperature is fatal for him. Therefore, in winter the temperature should not fall below 8 degrees.

Quaranthus loves Fresh air, therefore, when warm weather sets in, it can be taken out to the balcony, loggia or garden. In this case, it is necessary to choose a place protected from the scorching rays of the sun, rain and drafts. With the first cold snaps in August, the plant should be taken into the house.

The flower tolerates temperature fluctuations relatively normally, but it is better to provide it with the most comfortable conditions. Then he will delight with abundant lush flowering.

In spring and summer catharanthus needs abundant watering - 3-4 times a week. The soil in the pot should always be slightly damp.

in winter the regularity of the procedure is reduced to 1 time per week. Before the next moistening, the top layer of soil should dry well.

Watering the catharanthus, it is necessary to maintain a balance. For a plant, both waterlogging, which is fraught with rotting of the roots, and drying out of the earth, which can provoke twisting and falling of leaves, are detrimental. Therefore, water from the pan should be poured out 20-30 minutes after watering. It is impossible to allow complete drying of the earthen coma.

Water for irrigation should be defended for several days, it should be at room temperature.

For planting a catharanthus, you need a nutritious light ground. You can buy a ready-made substrate for flowering plants in the shop.

With self-preparation, sand, peat, soddy soil and humus should be mixed in equal proportions.

Another option is soddy, leafy soil, peat and sand in a ratio of 1:2:1:0.5. Before planting, the mixture should be disinfected by spilling it with a solution of potassium permanganate.

The pot must have holes for draining. At the bottom it is necessary to lay out a 4-centimeter layer of drainage.

Catharanthus grown as flyers are fed once a week. Perennials should be fertilized every 2 weeks from March to September. Feeding is not needed between October and February.

The dose should be made 2 times weaker than indicated on the package.

Quaranthus grown as flyers need more frequent feeding than those that are planned to be kept for the next year.

Fertilizers should be applied to moist soil after watering.. Do not exceed the concentration of fertilizer indicated on the package, as this can cause root burns.

Sometimes you can alternate mineral supplements with organic ones. As the latter, an ash solution is perfect (20 grams per 2 liters of water). Once a month, instead of root dressing, you can spray on the leaf. For this, it is recommended to use the drug Epin Extra.

Quaranthus prefers high humidity environment– not less than 60%. To ensure such conditions, you can use several methods:

It is prudent to approach the spraying of catharanthus. On the one hand, the plant loves high humidity, on the other hand, drops on the flowers are undesirable. During the flowering period, spraying should be carried out very carefully.

In winter, in a room with dry air, you can spray a dormant pink periwinkle every day, in the morning or in the evening. For this, warm settled water and a fine-grained spray gun are used.

In the spring, before transplanting, the shoots of the plant should be shortened by 1/3. Thus, the catharanthus can be rejuvenated and a lush flowering bush can be formed.

Cut pieces of shoots of catharanthus can be used for propagation.

Pruning is necessary for the catharanthus to form a compact bush, lush flowering and plant rejuvenation.

Quaranthus, grown as a perennial, is recommended to be cut in the spring, because during the winter the plant is very stretched and loses its decorative appearance. It is recommended to trim the shoots by 1/3. If the plant is very stretched in summer, it is recommended to carry out forming pruning by pinching the ends of the shoots. The cut stems will release new buds after a few weeks.

Pruned shoots can be used to propagate periwinkle using cuttings. Although the plant can be grown as a perennial indoors, it is not recommended to keep one copy for longer than 3 years.

This is due to the fact that the lower leaves on the shoots dry up and fall off, and the flower "goes bald", loses its attractiveness and decorative appearance. Young catharanthus updated with cuttings look much more presentable.

Brown rust can affect the catharanthus, which is recognized by the presence of pustules on the back of the leaves.

Damaged parts are removed, and the plant is treated with a fungicide, such as Fundazol.

Of the pests, aphids, spider mites, and scale insects pose a threat to the pink periwinkle.

Pests can be controlled by mechanical removal using a soapy solution or treatment with insecticides: Actellik, Fitoverm or Nurell-D.

Prevention of the appearance of insects is proper care, in particular, maintaining high humidity.

As a rule, problems with catharanthus arise due to improper care or adverse conditions of detention:

• The leaves of the plant begin to turn yellow, become soft and die off, mainly due to an excess of sunlight;
• If few buds appear on the catharanthus, then it is cold. The higher the temperature, the more magnificent the flowering;
• Yellowing and curling of the leaves indicates insufficient watering;
• The stems are stretched with a lack of light;
• The tips of the leaves dry out due to low humidity;
• Poor growth and poor flowering indicates a lack of nutrients in the soil;
• The catharanthus can drop buds when there is a lack of light or moisture.

Quarantus is propagated by seeds and cuttings.

seeds sown in boxes filled with a mixture of peat and sand to a depth of 0.5 cm. The container is covered with polyethylene and placed in a dark, warm (20-24 degrees) place.

After the emergence of seedlings - after 5-7 days - the greenhouse is taken out to a bright place. The earth is moistened as needed.

After 10 days, the film is removed, and after 20-30 days, the seedlings dive into separate pots.

cuttings, 10-12 cm long, cut in spring and summer. The lower leaves are cut off, the cut is processed with a root. Cuttings are planted in a mixture of perlite and peat, covered with a film and kept in diffused light at a temperature of 20-22 degrees.

After propagation of the catharanthus by cuttings, the film is removed after 3 weeks. After another 7 days, young catharanthus land in a permanent place. You can plant 2-3 cuttings in one pot.

Periwinkle grows very quickly, so it needs frequent transplants. Young catharanthus require several transfers to new pots over the summer. Those plants that are grown as perennials need an annual spring transplant (in March - early April).

Timely transplantation is the key to good growth and abundant flowering of periwinkle. If the roots braid the whole earthen ball, the buds stop appearing, and the leaves begin to turn yellow and fall off. In view of this, timely transplantation is very important for catharanthus.

The best way to transplant catharanthus is transshipment. Due to the fact that the earth ball and roots are not damaged, the plant quickly adapts to new conditions and continues to grow and develop well.

A day or two before transplanting, the periwinkle is not watered to strengthen the earthen ball. A good drainage layer of expanded clay, clay shards or broken bricks is laid at the bottom of the new pot. The plant is moved to a new container, and the free space in it is covered with new earth and lightly compacted.

Before sowing, it is advised to soak the seeds for 40 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate (1 gram per 0.5 liter of water), then dry them for several hours on a paper towel.

Seeds are sown in bowls or containers filled with a moistened mixture of peat, sand and earth. They deepen by 1-2 cm, after which the soil is slightly moistened with a fine-grained spray gun. The container is covered with an opaque film and placed in a dark place. The optimum temperature for germination is 23-25 ​​degrees.

Under favorable conditions, seedlings appear in 7-10 days., after which the film is removed, the container is transferred to a well-lit place (without the scorching sun), and the temperature of the content decreases slightly.

If in the future the catharanthus will be grown in a pot, then 2-3 specimens are planted in one container filled with a substrate for adult plants. So the periwinkle will look more lush and attractive. If the landing is made on a flower bed, then the flowers are planted one at a time.

Now you know everything about caring for a catharanthus at home, as well as about growing a plant from seeds from sowing to flowering.

Photo of catharanthus in the process of care at home and in the natural environment:

Quarantus - care and reproduction at home

Everyone who has seen a catharanthus indoor plant will agree that this spectacular bush, strewn with delightful numerous flowers, clearly brings the comfort and warmth of the southern islands of the Mediterranean into the house. Its name is translated from Greek as "pure, clear or flawless flower." In this article, you will read about growing catharanthus and caring for it at home. Many flower growers consider him the king of indoor flowering bushes, because the catharanthus pleases its owners with endless flowering almost all year round, and requires minimal care from them after planting.

The catharanthus flower (Catharanthus) belongs to the evergreen herbaceous and semi-shrub plants of the Kutrovye family (Apocynaceae). In the wild, it can be found everywhere in tropical countries. These are Cuba, Java, Africa, Indochina, Indonesia - it's impossible to list them all. It is not possible to accurately determine its homeland, although many scientists are inclined to Madagascar, where it is most common. There are seven or eight of its species. In the subtropics, the catharanthus grows up to one and a half meters in height. At home, this bush does not exceed 60 cm. As a houseplant, catharanthus has been bred since the middle of the 18th century.

For a long time, the catharanthus was considered one of the varieties of another flower - pink periwinkle. These plants are very similar. Both belong to the Kutrov family. Only since 1937, after lengthy disputes, did botanists begin to attribute pink catharanthus (Catharanthus roseus), as a species of evergreen perennial shrubs, to a separate genus of Catharanthus.

Indoor flower catharanthus is a perennial plant, often grown as an annual. In height at home, it grows no higher than 50 - 60 cm. Its upright stems are fleshy, branch on tops, and become woody over time. The roots are powerful, pivotal. The central root reaches a depth of 20-30 cm, there are many lateral adventitious roots that have a strong specific smell. Young roots lack root hairs. The leaves of the catharanthus are oblong in shape, pointed at both ends, and up to 7 cm long. They are glossy, dark green in color, with a white longitudinal vein. During flowering, the entire bush is covered with many wheel-shaped flowers. Catharanthus flowers are 3 to 5 cm in diameter. They have the correct shape of five petals with a flat corolla, the throat of which is covered with thyroid hairs. In the center of each flower there is a peephole, usually of a bright contrasting color. There are hybrids with white, orange, light lilac, blue-violet petals. Catharanthus flowers are very similar to phlox flowers, but they are solitary, while in phlox they are collected in inflorescences. But, during active flowering, from May to October, such a magnificent hat is formed from separately blooming flowers that the decorativeness of the flower at this time is beyond praise. Long flowering ends with the onset of cold weather. After flowering, the fruit of the catharanthus is formed, which is a sickle-shaped double leaf, inside which about a dozen elongated seeds are formed.

The catharanthus plant is valued not only for its spectacular appearance and decorative effect. Its medicinal properties have been known since ancient times. Healers and healers of Madagascar and Indonesia used catharanthus to treat diabetes, coughs and various tumors. The green parts of the plant contain up to 60 biologically active alkaloids. Modern research has shown that indeed this flower contains substances that reduce blood sugar. And the alkaloids vinblastine and vincristine formed the basis of anticancer drugs that are used in modern medicine. All kinds of infusions and decoctions are prepared from the leaves and shoots of the catharanthus, which treat many diseases, such as:

• poorly healing wounds and trophic ulcers;
• fibroids, polyps, prostate adenomas;
• diseases of the teeth and gums;
• broncho-pulmonary diseases;
• hypertension and diabetes.

It is important to know that all parts of the catharanthus are poisonous. It is not recommended to prepare any medicine from it yourself! Side effects, allergic reactions, burns may occur. There are contraindications. You can use preparations from catharanthus only under the supervision and on the recommendation of doctors.

All decorative series of varieties and hybrids of this flower are a variety of pink catharanthus. They differ from it in the size of the bush and different shades of petals. We will introduce you to the most popular of them.

Quaranthus Aristocrat. This is a low bush, 50 cm in height. The flowers are relatively large - up to 5 cm in diameter. The color range is varied - from pure white to dark red. In the middle, a contrast eye usually sparkles. This flower is grown not only as a houseplant, but also as a garden plant, decorating them with borders in flower beds and paths.

Quarantus Pacifica. This is a low compact bush, 25 - 30 cm in height, and 15 - 20 cm in crown diameter. It is characterized by early flowering and unpretentious care. The flowers are large, a characteristic eye in the middle stands out brightly.

Depending on the shade of the petals, the Pacifica variety has its own varieties:

• Pacific Burgundy - has rich wine-colored flowers with a white eye;
• Pacific White - has white flowers with a red eye;
• Pacifica Epricot - has apricot-colored flowers with a red center;
• Pacifica Ice Pink - has pale pink flowers with a red eye.

In the eighties of the last century, a number of new spectacular varieties of catharanthus appeared. Here are some of the popular ones so far:

Variety series Cooler (Culer). Small strongly branching bushes, up to 40 cm in height, united here. Their flowers are round, large, up to 5 cm in diameter. With a bright contrast eye in the center.

The varieties in this series include:

• Grape Cooler - lavender-pink flowers with a red center;
• Peppermint Cooler - white flowers with a bright red center;
• Red Cooler - red flowers.

Sortoseriya First Kiss (First Kiss, First kiss). Low, 30 - 40 cm in height, neat bushes, have a beautiful crown and at least 13 shades of flowers. This is the most popular and titled series of catharanthus. At flower growers' competitions in North America, the catharanthus of this variety series won prestigious prizes, in particular, the blue-violet cultivar First Kiss Blueberry won high awards in the USA and Canada.

Variety series Cascade (Cascade). Here are ampelous catharanthus, up to 15 cm high and with long flexible shoots that either creep or hang down. It blooms with large flowers, up to 5 cm in diameter. The most popular varieties of this variety series:

Quaranthus ampelous Titan. Long whips hanging down reach 75 cm in length. Numerous bright red flowers burn brightly on dark green glossy leaves. This variety is excellent for growing in pots.

• White - with snow-white flowers;
• Deep Rose - with pink flowers;
• Bark cascade Cherry - with cherry flowers;
• Bark cascade Shelf Dot - with white flowers;
• Bark cascade Mejent - with flowers of gray - burgundy color.

When growing catharanthus at home, it is important to follow some simple rules so that you have a wonderful evergreen bush.

All parts of the catharanthus are poisonous and contain alkaloids. Work with it must be carried out with gloves to avoid allergies or poisoning.

Kataranthus is a moisture-loving culture. Abundant flowering directly depends on a sufficiently high humidity of the ambient air and substrate. Quaranthus prefer high humidity. If humidity readings fall below 60%, spraying of the surrounding air and, with care, the plants themselves is necessary. Moreover, the leaves can be sprayed, but the flowers are not desirable! To increase the humidity in the room, place containers with water next to the catharanthus plantings, and place the pots themselves in trays with wet expanded clay or wet pebbles.

Water your flowers regularly. Drying of the root system must not be allowed! You will immediately know about insufficient watering by the twisting leaves of the plant. If you quickly notice and soon water, they will straighten out.

But there should be no stagnation of water in the pan and waterlogging of the soil. Try to choose the frequency of watering so that the soil moisture is consistently average. Water no earlier than the top layer of soil dries to a depth of 2 - 3 cm. If you plan to keep the plant until next year, significantly reduce watering in the autumn-winter period. Keep the earth ball slightly damp. If the air in the room is dry, spray the leaves constantly.

The plant prefers diffused light. On the windowsills of the eastern and western directions, he will be most comfortable. Although, on the south side, provided the pot is protected from direct sunlight at noon, the catharanthus will feel great. It is not necessary to place the flower pot on the windowsill itself. It grows well in a small shade and looks great on a shelf illuminated by scattered sunlight. Under the condition of wintering indoors, he will also need good lighting. Otherwise, the stems will stretch upwards, and the decorative effect of the flower will suffer. If there is insufficient lighting, use fluorescent lamps.

The ideal temperature for growing catharanthus at home is 20 - 25 degrees Celsius. This is in the spring and summer for the long-term maintenance of the flower. In winter, it is necessary for him to find a cooler place and maintain the temperature there within 15 degrees, because he has no place on the windowsill, next to heating appliances. Perhaps you have an insulated loggia. But, it is necessary to ensure that the temperature does not decrease at all - a long decrease in it, below 10 degrees, may not endure the catharanthus.

If you are not going to keep the flower in the winter and plan to throw it away in the fall, after flowering, then the warmer the location, the more abundantly it will bloom for you. Moreover, the flower feels great in the warm season in the open air. In the spring, as soon as the air outside warms up above 18 degrees, the catharanthus pot can be placed on a balcony or veranda, preferably under a roof, because flower plantings must be protected from precipitation, drafts and direct sun. With the first cold snap, in August-September, it is better to bring the catharanthus into the living quarters. Until October, he will still delight you with his magnificent flowering on the windowsill.

Well kataranthus will grow in loose light fertile soil. Purchased land for flowering houseplants, for example, for geraniums, is suitable for him. It is also not difficult to prepare a soil mixture on your own from leaf and sod land, adding a little peat and coarse river sand there.

In order for the flowering of the catharanthus to be long and plentiful, it needs constant, fairly intensive top dressing. If your flower is an annual, feed it once a week by adding liquid fertilizer for flowering houseplants to the water for irrigation. Suitable liquid fertilizer for indoor roses. But do not overdo it, read the doses on the package.

If the catharanthus after flowering will be preserved as a perennial, its strength must be preserved. Therefore, top dressing should be done during flowering less often, once every 2 weeks, and at a dose reduced by half. After flowering, from October to February, top dressing should be stopped altogether.

Quaranthus is a fast growing flower. If you plant it in a small pot, it will outgrow it very soon, the roots won't fit and will block the drainage holes. Therefore, choose a large pot right away, so that it is enough for a year of the flower's life. As we wrote above, the root system is developing well, the roots grow up to 20 - 35 cm in length. Lay a good layer of drainage, 3-4 cm, on the bottom of the planting tank. Use expanded clay, pebbles or other suitable material. And then fill the pot with the prepared soil mixture. Do not forget to add a little humus for nutrition. During the annual transplant of perennial catharanthus, each time choose a pot 3 - 5 cm larger and wider than before.

For such a fast-growing plant as catharanthus, pruning of shoots is a necessary procedure. In a perennial culture, after a period of winter rest, the shoots stretched out over the winter are cut off by a third of their length. Remove damaged and dried branches, give the bush the desired shape. This pruning in early spring will rejuvenate the flower, give it strength for new growth.

Pinching the ends of the shoots will help to form a compact beautiful crown of a young catharanthus. Their upward growth will stop, and the growth of side branches will make the crown thicker and more decorative.

But you will have to constantly monitor the decorative appearance of your pet during flowering. Withered flowers and yellowed leaves at the bottom of the shoots must be cleaned regularly - they greatly spoil the appearance of the plant.

If you grow catharanthus as a perennial, then it will need an annual transplant in early spring, in March.

Return the flower to a warm, bright room. Look around. Make the desired cut. Pick up a pot for transplanting 3 - 5 cm more than before. Put drainage there - it should be at least 4 cm. Transplant by transshipping the flower along with the ground. Try not to injure the root system. Add soil of the same composition to the pot in which the catharanthus grew last season. If the soil is very different in composition, the flower may not bloom. According to the reaction, the soil is neutral or slightly sour. Keep this in mind and always use one type of soil, for example, for flowering geraniums.

You may need to repot your flower more than once a year. If during the active phase of flowering the lower leaves suddenly began to turn yellow and flowers fall off - Perhaps the root system no longer has enough space in the pot. You can see the roots sticking out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. This is a signal that the catharanthus urgently needs to be transplanted into a large container.

If the catharanthus is difficult to remove from the pot, try watering it. The plastic pot may need to be cut or broken, but when removing the flower, be careful not to damage its delicate root system. Otherwise, the catharanthus will stop blooming.

If you regularly follow all the rules of good flower care, then the catharanthus will also try and stun you with its fantastic flowering!

We recommend not keeping your perennial for more than three years. Any catharanthus of this age begins to grow, its flowers become small, the shoots are clumsy. The plant loses its attractiveness and decorative effect. It is better to part with him, having taken care of his descendants in advance, that is, about reproduction.

After the enchanting flowering, the forces of the catharanthus are depleted, and you need to try to make it bloom again the next year. For this reason, flower growers often grow catharanthus as an annual plant, and after flowering is over, they are simply thrown away. After all, the difficulties of preserving a flower in winter, problems with temperature, humidity, and lighting of its wintering place cannot be compared with the rooting of its shoots or cuttings. By the beginning of the new season, you will have a new flower full of strength and desire to bloom without any problems.

Catharanthus is propagated in three ways: growing from seeds, rooting cuttings and dividing the bush.

Purchase catharanthus seeds in specialty stores. Their seeds during the summer flowering will not have time to ripen. Their natural ripening is possible only in tropical conditions. If you still set out to get your seeds - be patient. The bush will have to be grown all autumn and winter at room conditions, maintaining a constant temperature, humidity and good lighting, as in the tropics. Your seeds will ripen, perhaps only by spring.

Seeds can be sown at any time of the year. Just keep in mind that the catharanthus blooms after germination in 60 - 70 days, that is, young bushes will bloom in two to three months. Therefore, it is better, in terms of caring for them - in terms of temperature, humidity and lighting, to do this in early spring.

Prepared seeds (treated with potassium permanganate and epin) are sown in containers with nutrient soil to a depth of no more than 1 cm. The soil is gently moistened with a spray bottle with warm settled water, the container lid is closed. You can use any containers convenient for you, but be sure to cover them with something transparent - glass or polyethylene. Germination will be best done in a warm, dark place. In a week or two shoots will appear. Containers are taken out to a lighted place. The temperature is maintained at 23 - 26 degrees Celsius. Air once a day, preferably in the morning. Sprouts for a long time, about a month, sit at the same level - they grow roots. When three or four leaves appear on the seedlings, the catharanthus dive into separate pots. Do not forget about the rapid growth of the young, immediately take a pot of a large size than you would like, so that soon, during flowering, you do not have to replant the flower again.

Pay special attention to the preparation of the soil mixture. An excellent option is a mixture of peat, humus, soddy soil and coarse sand in equal proportions. If you use ready-made soil, choose a substrate suitable for flowering indoor flowers.

For propagation by cuttings (cuttings), green cuttings are cut from the tops of the shoots near the catharanthus. Choose the method of rooting the cutting - in water or in the substrate.

Water for rooting is taken settled or boiled with the addition of some kind of growth stimulant. Put the glass in a bright warm place. Waiting for the appearance of the spine. As needed, add water. Roots will appear very soon. Then the stalk is planted in a pot with a regular substrate. Take care of like an adult plant.

You can root the cuttings in a container with moist soil under the film. Air plantings from time to time, as the soil dries, water them. When signs of new growth appear on the handle, the film can be removed. Root cuttings with a margin, in case of their death.

Harvesting and planting cuttings is best in the spring, after pruning the old bush. But you can do it in the fall too. The optimum temperature for rooting catharanthus cuttings is 22 - 25 degrees Celsius.

Video: how to propagate catharanthus cuttings.

This method of reproduction is used during the transplantation of an adult plant into new pots. Usually, it happens in early spring. Depending on the size of the root system, the catharanthus can be easily divided into two or three parts. Remove the flower from the pot, try to gently shake the soil from the roots. Decide on the place of division of the root system. Use a sharp, well-disinfected tool to divide the bush. Treat the incision sites with crushed activated charcoal. Plant each specimen in a separate pot according to all the rules.

If you are planting your indoor flower in a summer cottage in a flower bed for the summer, then you need to think about how to save the catharanthus in winter. After all, your sissy will not survive the winter, even mild, on the street. Carefully dig up the plant in early October. Trim the branches two-thirds of the way. Place the flower in a spacious pot to fit the entire root system. Fill the pot to the top with a mixture of sand and earth. Bring in a cool room with a temperature of 15 - 17 degrees. Try to find one for the winter in the apartment. Let him stand there until the onset of spring and warmth. It does not need to be watered in winter. When the air outside warms up above 18 degrees, the rhizome of the catharanthus can be planted again in a flower bed.

You can always determine by the appearance of the plant whether it is healthy or something is wrong with it. The cataranthus, by its appearance, itself signals the unfavorable conditions of its maintenance. The plant must be monitored, and, if necessary, take measures to correct their mistakes.

Consider the most common problems of growing catharanthus.

• Small dark bumps or spots appeared on the upper surface of the leaves. On the bottom - something in the form of pustules. These are signs of the disease of many indoor flowers - leaf rust. The reason is frequent waterlogging of the soil at high humidity. Or when transplanting, a heavy or rust-infected soil was used. Treatment is carried out with fungicides (read about indoor flower diseases). Transplant the treated plant into new soil.
• The leaves on the shoots became lethargic, turned yellow and fell off. This happens if the pot is on a window sill that is not protected from the sun. Set the flower to the back of the room or protect it from direct sunlight with blinds or curtains.
• The tips of the leaves turned yellow. This happens when the humidity in the room is too low. In winter this is due to the central heating. The pot must be placed in a tall pan with wet expanded clay and set aside from the heaters. Next to the flower, you can place a wide container of water. If there are no flowers on the catharanthus, its leaves should be sprayed with settled water at room temperature. All this should increase the humidity in the room. The tips of the leaves of the catharanthus will stop turning yellow.
• The lower leaves on the shoots turn yellow and fall off. This is a natural process for a catharanthus. Remove them regularly from the plant so that the decorative effect of the flower does not suffer.
• There are few flowers on your catharanthus. Poor flowering usually happens if the catharanthus is cold. Move the flower pot to a warmer, brighter place - and he will thank you with abundant flowering.
• The leaves begin to turn yellow, flowering stops. Examine the flower pot. If it is not large, if the roots of the catharanthus appeared from the drainage holes, it means that your pet has become cramped in this pot and it's time to transplant it into a wider and deeper flowerpot. It will take a little time, and the plant will come to life and begin to bloom.
• The quarantus began dropping buds. This happens when there is insufficient attention to the flower: poor lighting, lack of moisture in the soil or low air humidity.
• Young leaves are falling from the tops of the shoots. Perhaps you rarely water the flower, it lacks moisture. At the same time, check other nuances of care: whether it is warm, light, and whether any insects bite it.

We introduced you to the catharanthus indoor flower. Believe that you will spend less time caring for him than reading this article! This is a completely unpretentious plant, but so sweet and responsive to any attention to it from the grower. Kataranthus is good because this small, compact bush blooms profusely with bright acrylic flowers from spring to October. At the same time, it grows quickly and multiplies easily. Knowing the simple rules for caring for it, you will always have a grateful plant in your house, ready to decorate the interior of your house all year round.

It is quite difficult to grow a beautiful and ever-flowering catharanthus flower at home. If you provide the plant with proper care, then it will delight all year round with an abundance of bright colors. The height of the stem reaches 20-60 cm - it all depends on the variety. Large green leaves adorn the buds collected in a corolla. The color of the flowers can be white, pink or pale lilac. Having figured out in more detail how to care for a plant, you will always be able to enjoy the beauty of the catharanthus.

Features of care

Do not forget that the flower was originally an inhabitant of the tropics, so it feels best at a temperature of 23-26 ° C. In warm weather, the pot can be taken out to the balcony or. The plant loves light, and also requires a sufficient level of humidity for comfortable growth. The ideal place for a catharanthus is fresh air. If the weather is appropriate, you can please him with air baths.

The catharanthus indoor flower grows quite quickly, so you should be ready to transplant it once a year. The best choice would be a pot a couple of sizes larger than the plant itself. It is important to provide the catharanthus with abundant watering, but at the same time not to allow the roots to rot.

Lighting

When looking for a place for a plant, the east or west side of the apartment will be the best choice. It is desirable that the pot does not stand in direct sunlight, but there should be enough light in the room. In the process of caring for catharanthus at home, one should not forget to take it outside (during the warm season), precipitation should not fall on the plant.

It is not worth putting the pot on the south side, as the plant can get burned. In winter, fluorescent lamps are used as additional lighting.

Priming

There are no special preferences when choosing a soil, the earth should be loose and pass air well. In the process of preparing the mixture, leaf, humus and soddy soil are mixed. and sand is taken in equal proportions and added to the pot. If desired, in the process of caring for a catharanthus at home, they buy ready-made land. Perfect Choice become soil for geraniums. The bottom of the pot is best pre-lay out with expanded clay.

Properly prepared mixture and fertilizing the soil 2-3 times a month is the key to rapid flower growth.

Watering and cutting the stem

It is very important to ensure that the earth in the pot does not have time to dry out, as this negatively affects the growth of the plant. It will be possible to find out that the flower does not have enough watering by the state of the leaves. When the leaves of the catharanthus curl or they begin to turn yellow, this is a sure sign that the earth has begun to dry out.

It is recommended to use purified water at room temperature when watering. The liquid from the tap is preliminarily defended for 2-3 days. It is advisable to drain the water that appears in the pan after watering so that the roots do not rot.

IN springtime it is recommended to cut the stem so that the catharanthus becomes more magnificent. At the end of winter, the stem noticeably stretches, so in order for the flowers to grow more closely, this procedure should not be overlooked. IN decorative purposes you can prune as an exception the plant in the summer. The first flowers on the cut stem begin to bloom again after 3 weeks.

Do not forget that the catharanthus is a poisonous plant, which is why transplanting and cutting the stem is best done with gloves. Upon completion of the procedure, all tools and hands should be thoroughly washed with soap and water.

How catharanthus breeds at home

Cataranthus reproduces in several main ways. This process proceeds when using seeds, cuttings, or by dividing the bush.

Before you grow a catharanthus from seeds at home, you should first familiarize yourself with a few rules:

1. Seeds are planted at any time of the year. The soil must first be moistened.
2. It will be possible to collect seeds on your own in the spring from a flower or purchase purchased ones. In the first case, they are pre-treated with a light solution of potassium permanganate, after wrapping them in a gauze bag and dipping them in liquid for 30 minutes. Then they dry well.
3. The seeds fall into the soil to a depth of no more than 1.5 cm. The pot is covered with a dark film or placed in a room without light.
4. The room temperature must be at least 23 degrees. After 8 days, the first shoots will appear.

Propagation of catharanthus by cuttings requires pre-training. It is best to perform the procedure in the spring after trimming the stem. The resulting apical stalk is placed in water, where growth stimulants are added. The plant is planted in the soil after the formation of roots. The temperature in the room should not be less than 20 ° C. It will be possible to accelerate the growth of the catharanthus by placing a jar on top of the handle or covering it with a film. Do not forget to ventilate the plant.

Dividing the bush is relevant only in cases with a mature plant. In the process of dividing the catharanthus at home, the root system is divided into several parts, and then planted separately in pots.

winter period

Knowing how to preserve the catharanthus in winter will not only save the plant from death, but also accelerate its development in the future. In the cold season, it is important to ensure that the temperature in the room does not fall below 16-18 degrees. Putting the pot on a cold floor is not recommended, as low temperatures can adversely affect the state of the root system.

In winter, the air in the room becomes dry due to heating. Maintain the desired level of humidity by spraying or using a humidifier. Watering the flower at this time of the year is not necessary often. If at other times of the year the plant is fed with fertilizer 2-3 times a month, then this is not necessary in winter. At this time of the year, the soil should rest.

Signs of the disease

Quarantus in indoor floriculture - video

Everyone who has seen a catharanthus indoor plant will agree that this spectacular bush, strewn with delightful numerous flowers, clearly brings the comfort and warmth of the southern islands of the Mediterranean into the house. Its name is translated from Greek as "pure, clear or flawless flower." In this article, you will read about growing catharanthus and caring for it at home. Many flower growers consider him the king of indoor flowering bushes, because the catharanthus pleases its owners with endless flowering almost all year round, and requires minimal care from them after planting.

Description

The catharanthus flower (Catharanthus) belongs to the evergreen herbaceous and semi-shrub plants of the Kutrovye family (Apocynaceae). In the wild, it can be found everywhere in tropical countries. These are Cuba, Java, Africa, Indochina, Indonesia - it's impossible to list everything. It is not possible to accurately determine its homeland, although many scientists are inclined to Madagascar, where it is most common. There are seven or eight of its species. In the subtropics, the catharanthus grows up to one and a half meters in height. At home, this bush does not exceed 60 cm. As a houseplant, catharanthus has been bred since the middle of the 18th century.

For a long time, the catharanthus was considered one of the varieties of another flower - pink periwinkle. These plants are very similar. Both belong to the Kutrov family. Only since 1937, after lengthy disputes, did botanists begin to attribute pink catharanthus (Catharanthus roseus), as a species of evergreen perennial shrubs, to a separate genus of Catharanthus.

Indoor flower catharanthus is a perennial plant, often grown as an annual. In height at home, it grows no higher than 50 - 60 cm. Its upright stems are fleshy, branch on tops, and become woody over time. The roots are powerful, pivotal. The central root reaches a depth of 20 - 30 cm, there are many lateral adventitious roots that have a strong specific smell. Young roots lack root hairs. The leaves of the catharanthus are oblong in shape, pointed at both ends, and up to 7 cm long. They are glossy, dark green in color, with a white longitudinal vein. During flowering, the entire bush is covered with many wheel-shaped flowers. Catharanthus flowers are 3 to 5 cm in diameter. They have the correct shape of five petals with a flat corolla, the throat of which is covered with thyroid hairs. In the center of each flower there is a peephole, usually of a bright contrasting color. There are hybrids with white, orange, light lilac, blue-violet petals. Catharanthus flowers are very similar to phlox flowers, but they are solitary, while in phlox they are collected in inflorescences. But, during active flowering, from May to October, such a magnificent hat is formed from separately blooming flowers that the decorativeness of the flower at this time is beyond praise. Long flowering ends with the onset of cold weather. After flowering, the fruit of the catharanthus is formed, which is a sickle-shaped double leaf, inside which about a dozen elongated seeds are formed.

Medicinal properties

The catharanthus plant is valued not only for its spectacular appearance and decorative effect. Its medicinal properties have been known since ancient times. Healers and healers of Madagascar and Indonesia used catharanthus to treat diabetes, coughs and various tumors. The green parts of the plant contain up to 60 biologically active alkaloids. Modern research has shown that indeed this flower contains substances that reduce blood sugar. And the alkaloids vinblastine and vincristine formed the basis of anticancer drugs that are used in modern medicine. All kinds of infusions and decoctions are prepared from the leaves and shoots of the catharanthus, which treat many diseases, such as:

• poorly healing wounds and trophic ulcers;
• fibroids, polyps, prostate adenomas;
• diseases of the teeth and gums;
• broncho-pulmonary diseases;
• hypertension and diabetes.

It is important to know that all parts of the catharanthus are poisonous. It is not recommended to prepare any medicine from it yourself! Side effects, allergic reactions, burns may occur. There are contraindications. You can use preparations from catharanthus only under the supervision and on the recommendation of doctors.

Species and varieties

All decorative series of varieties and hybrids of this flower are a variety of pink catharanthus. They differ from it in the size of the bush and different shades of petals. We will introduce you to the most popular of them.

Catharanthus Aristocrat

Quaranthus Aristocrat. This is a low bush, 50 cm in height. The flowers are relatively large - up to 5 cm in diameter. The color range is varied - from pure white to dark red. In the middle, a contrast eye usually sparkles. This flower is grown not only as a houseplant, but also as a garden plant, decorating them with borders in flower beds and paths.

Cataranthus Pacifica

Quaranthus Pacifica. This is a low compact bush, 25 - 30 cm in height, and 15 - 20 cm in crown diameter. It is characterized by early flowering and unpretentious care. The flowers are large, a characteristic eye in the middle stands out brightly.

Depending on the shade of the petals, the Pacifica variety has its own varieties:

• Pacific Burgundy - has rich wine-colored flowers with a white eye;
• Pacific White - has white flowers with a red eye;
• Pacifica Epricot - has apricot-colored flowers with a red center;
• Pacifica Ice Pink - has pale pink flowers with a red eye.

In the eighties of the last century, a number of new spectacular varieties of catharanthus appeared. Here are some of the popular ones so far:

Variety series Cooler (Culer). Small strongly branching bushes, up to 40 cm in height, united here. Their flowers are round, large, up to 5 cm in diameter. With a bright contrast eye in the center.

The varieties in this series include:

• Grape Cooler - lavender-pink flowers with a red center;
• Peppermint Cooler - white flowers with a bright red center;
• Red Cooler - red flowers.

Sortoseriya First Kiss (First Kiss, First kiss). Low, 30 - 40 cm in height, neat bushes, have a beautiful crown and at least 13 shades of flowers. This is the most popular and titled series of catharanthus. At flower growers' competitions in North America, the catharanthus of this variety series won prestigious prizes, in particular, the blue-violet cultivar First Kiss Blueberry won high awards in the USA and Canada.

Variety series Cascade. Here are ampelous catharanthus, up to 15 cm high and with long flexible shoots that either creep or hang down. It blooms with large flowers, up to 5 cm in diameter. The most popular varieties of this variety series:

Quaranthus ampelous Titan. Long whips hanging down reach 75 cm in length. Numerous bright red flowers burn brightly on dark green glossy leaves. This variety is excellent for growing in pots.

Cataranthus titan

• White - with snow-white flowers;
• Deep Rose - with pink flowers;
• Bark cascade Cherry - with cherry flowers;
• Bark cascade Shelf Dot - with white flowers;
• Bark cascade Mejent - with flowers of gray - burgundy color.

Home care

When growing catharanthus at home, it is important to follow some simple rules so that you have a wonderful evergreen bush.

All parts of the catharanthus are poisonous and contain alkaloids. Work with it must be carried out with gloves to avoid allergies or poisoning.

Humidity, spraying, watering

Kataranthus is a moisture-loving culture. Abundant flowering directly depends on a sufficiently high humidity of the ambient air and substrate. Quaranthus prefer high humidity. If humidity readings fall below 60%, spraying of the surrounding air and, with care, the plants themselves is necessary. Moreover, the leaves can be sprayed, but the flowers are not desirable! To increase the humidity in the room, place containers with water next to the catharanthus plantings, and place the pots themselves in trays with wet expanded clay or wet pebbles.

Water your flowers regularly. Drying of the root system must not be allowed! You will immediately know about insufficient watering by the twisting leaves of the plant. If you quickly notice and soon water, they will straighten out.

But there should be no stagnation of water in the pan and waterlogging of the soil. Try to choose the frequency of watering so that the soil moisture is consistently average. Water no earlier than the top layer of soil dries to a depth of 2 - 3 cm. If you plan to keep the plant until next year, significantly reduce watering in the autumn-winter period. Keep the earth ball slightly damp. If the air in the room is dry, spray the leaves constantly.

Lighting

The plant prefers diffused light. On the windowsills of the eastern and western directions, he will be most comfortable. Although, on the south side, provided the pot is protected from direct sunlight at noon, the catharanthus will feel great. It is not necessary to place the flower pot on the windowsill itself. It grows well in a small shade and looks great on a shelf illuminated by scattered sunlight. Under the condition of wintering indoors, he will also need good lighting. Otherwise, the stems will stretch upwards, and the decorative effect of the flower will suffer. If there is insufficient lighting, use fluorescent lamps.

Temperature

The ideal temperature for growing catharanthus at home is 20 - 25 degrees Celsius. This is in the spring and summer for the long-term maintenance of the flower. In winter, it is necessary for him to find a cooler place and maintain the temperature there within 15 degrees, because he has no place on the windowsill, next to heating appliances. Perhaps you have an insulated loggia. But, it is necessary to ensure that the temperature does not decrease at all - its prolonged decrease, below 10 degrees, may not be tolerated by the catharanthus.

If you are not going to keep the flower in the winter and plan to throw it away in the fall, after flowering, then the warmer the location, the more abundantly it will bloom for you. Moreover, the flower feels great in the warm season in the open air. In the spring, as soon as the air outside warms up above 18 degrees, the catharanthus pot can be placed on a balcony or veranda, preferably under a roof, because flower plantings must be protected from precipitation, drafts and direct sun. With the first cold snap, in August-September, it is better to bring the catharanthus into the living quarters. Until October, he will still delight you with his magnificent flowering on the windowsill.

Soil and top dressing

Well kataranthus will grow in loose light fertile soil. Purchased land for flowering houseplants, for example, for geraniums, is suitable for him. It is also not difficult to prepare a soil mixture on your own from leaf and sod land, adding a little peat and coarse river sand there.

In order for the flowering of the catharanthus to be long and plentiful, it needs constant, fairly intensive top dressing. If your flower is an annual, feed it once a week by adding liquid fertilizer for flowering houseplants to the water for irrigation. Suitable liquid fertilizer for indoor roses. But do not overdo it, read the doses on the package.

If the catharanthus after flowering will be preserved as a perennial, its strength must be preserved. Therefore, top dressing should be done during flowering less often, once every 2 weeks, and at a dose reduced by half. After flowering, from October to February, top dressing should be stopped altogether.

The right size pot

Quaranthus is a fast growing flower. If you plant it in a small pot, it will outgrow it very soon, the roots won't fit and will block the drainage holes. Therefore, choose a large pot right away, so that it is enough for a year of the flower's life. As we wrote above, the root system is developing well, the roots grow up to 20 - 35 cm in length. Lay a good drainage layer, 3 - 4 cm, on the bottom of the planting tank. Use expanded clay, pebbles or other suitable material. And then fill the pot with the prepared soil mixture. Do not forget to add a little humus for nutrition. During the annual transplant of perennial catharanthus, each time choose a pot 3 - 5 cm larger and wider than before.

Pruning and shaping the bush

For such a fast-growing plant as catharanthus, pruning of shoots is a necessary procedure. In a perennial culture, after a period of winter rest, the shoots stretched out over the winter are cut off by a third of their length. Remove damaged and dried branches, give the bush the desired shape. This pruning in early spring will rejuvenate the flower, give it strength for new growth.

Pinching the ends of the shoots will help to form a compact beautiful crown of a young catharanthus. Their upward growth will stop, and the growth of side branches will make the crown thicker and more decorative.

But you will have to constantly monitor the decorative appearance of your pet during flowering. Withered flowers and yellowed leaves at the bottom of the shoots must be cleaned regularly - they greatly spoil the appearance of the plant.

Transfer

If you grow catharanthus as a perennial, then it will need an annual transplant in early spring, in March.

Return the flower to a warm, bright room. Look around. Make the desired cut. Pick up a pot for transplanting 3 - 5 cm more than before. Put drainage there - it should be at least 4 cm. Do the transplant by transshipping the flower along with the ground. Try not to injure the root system. Add soil of the same composition to the pot in which the catharanthus grew last season. If the soil is very different in composition, the flower may not bloom. According to the reaction, the soil is neutral or slightly sour. Keep this in mind and always use one type of soil, for example, for flowering geraniums.

You may need to repot your flower more than once a year. If during the active phase of flowering the lower leaves suddenly began to turn yellow and flowers fall off - Perhaps the root system no longer has enough space in the pot. You can see the roots sticking out of the drainage holes in the bottom of the pot. This is a signal that the catharanthus urgently needs to be transplanted into a large container.

If the catharanthus is difficult to remove from the pot, try watering it. The plastic pot may need to be cut or broken, but when removing the flower, be careful not to damage its delicate root system. Otherwise, the catharanthus will stop blooming.

If you regularly follow all the rules of good flower care, then the catharanthus will also try and stun you with its fantastic flowering!

We recommend not keeping your perennial for more than three years. Any catharanthus of this age begins to grow, its flowers become small, the shoots are clumsy. The plant loses its attractiveness and decorative effect. It is better to part with him, having taken care of his descendants in advance, that is, about reproduction.

reproduction

After the enchanting flowering, the forces of the catharanthus are depleted, and you need to try to make it bloom again the next year. For this reason, flower growers often grow catharanthus as an annual plant, and after flowering is over, they are simply thrown away. After all, the difficulties of preserving a flower in winter, problems with temperature, humidity, and lighting of its wintering place cannot be compared with the rooting of its shoots or cuttings. By the beginning of the new season, you will have a new flower full of strength and desire to bloom without any problems.

Catharanthus is propagated in three ways: growing from seeds, rooting cuttings and dividing the bush.

Growing from seed

Purchase catharanthus seeds in specialty stores. Their seeds during the summer flowering will not have time to ripen. Their natural ripening is possible only in tropical conditions. If you still set out to get your seeds - be patient. The bush will have to be grown all autumn and winter at room conditions, maintaining a constant temperature, humidity and good lighting, as in the tropics. Your seeds will ripen, perhaps only by spring.

Catharanthus seeds

Seeds can be sown at any time of the year. Just keep in mind that the catharanthus blooms after germination in 60 - 70 days, that is, young bushes will bloom in two to three months. Therefore, it is better, in terms of caring for them - in terms of temperature, humidity and lighting, to do this in early spring.

Prepared seeds (treated with potassium permanganate and epin) are sown in containers with nutrient soil to a depth of no more than 1 cm. The soil is gently moistened with a spray bottle with warm settled water, the container lid is closed. You can use any containers convenient for you, but be sure to cover them with something transparent - glass or polyethylene. Germination will be best done in a warm, dark place. In a week or two shoots will appear. Containers are taken out to a lighted place. The temperature is maintained at 23 - 26 degrees Celsius. Air once a day, preferably in the morning. Sprouts for a long time, about a month, sit at the same level - they grow roots. When three or four leaves appear on the seedlings, the catharanthus dive into separate pots. Do not forget about the rapid growth of the young, immediately take a pot of a large size than you would like, so that soon, during flowering, you do not have to replant the flower again.

Pay special attention to the preparation of the soil mixture. An excellent option is a mixture of peat, humus, soddy soil and coarse sand in equal proportions. If you use ready-made soil, choose a substrate suitable for flowering indoor flowers.

Reproduction by cuttings

For propagation by cuttings (cuttings), green cuttings are cut from the tops of the shoots near the catharanthus. Choose the method of rooting the cutting - in water or in the substrate.

Water for rooting is taken settled or boiled with the addition of some kind of growth stimulant. Put the glass in a bright warm place. Waiting for the appearance of the spine. As needed, add water. Roots will appear very soon. Then the stalk is planted in a pot with a regular substrate. Take care of like an adult plant.

You can root the cuttings in a container with moist soil under the film. Ventilate plantings from time to time, as the soil dries, water them. When signs of new growth appear on the handle, the film can be removed. Root cuttings with a margin, in case of their death.

Harvesting and planting cuttings is best in the spring, after pruning the old bush. But you can do it in the fall too. The optimum temperature for rooting catharanthus cuttings is 22 - 25 degrees Celsius.

Video: how to propagate catharanthus cuttings.

Reproduction by dividing the bush

This method of reproduction is used during the transplantation of an adult plant into new pots. Usually, it happens in early spring. Depending on the size of the root system, the catharanthus can be easily divided into two or three parts. Remove the flower from the pot, try to gently shake the soil from the roots. Decide on the place of division of the root system. Use a sharp, well-disinfected tool to divide the bush. Treat the incision sites with crushed activated charcoal. Plant each specimen in a separate pot according to all the rules.

Organization of wintering

If you are planting your indoor flower in a summer cottage in a flower bed for the summer, then you need to think about how to save the catharanthus in winter. After all, your sissy will not survive the winter, even mild, on the street. Carefully dig up the plant in early October. Trim the branches two-thirds of the way. Place the flower in a spacious pot to fit the entire root system. Fill the pot to the top with a mixture of sand and earth. Bring in a cool room with a temperature of 15 - 17 degrees. Try to find one for the winter in the apartment. Let him stand there until the onset of spring and warmth. It does not need to be watered in winter. When the air outside warms up above 18 degrees, the rhizome of the catharanthus can be planted again in a flower bed.

Possible Growing Problems

You can always determine by the appearance of the plant whether it is healthy or something is wrong with it. The cataranthus, by its appearance, itself signals the unfavorable conditions of its maintenance. The plant must be monitored, and, if necessary, take measures to correct their mistakes.

Consider the most common problems of growing catharanthus.

Diseases

• Small dark bumps or spots appeared on the upper surface of the leaves. On the bottom - something in the form of pustules. These are signs of the disease of many indoor flowers - leaf rust. The reason is the frequent waterlogging of the soil at high humidity. Or when transplanting, a heavy or rust-infected soil was used. Treatment is carried out with fungicides (read about indoor flower diseases). Transplant the treated plant into new soil.
• The leaves on the shoots became lethargic, turned yellow and fell off. This happens if the pot is on a window sill that is not protected from the sun. Set the flower to the back of the room or protect it from direct sunlight with blinds or curtains.
• The tips of the leaves turned yellow. This happens when the humidity in the room is too low. In winter this is due to the central heating. The pot must be placed in a tall pan with wet expanded clay and set aside from the heaters. Next to the flower, you can place a wide container of water. If there are no flowers on the catharanthus, its leaves should be sprayed with settled water at room temperature. All this should increase the humidity in the room. The tips of the leaves of the catharanthus will stop turning yellow.
• The lower leaves on the shoots turn yellow and fall off. This is a natural process for a catharanthus. Remove them regularly from the plant so that the decorative effect of the flower does not suffer.
• There are few flowers on your catharanthus. Poor flowering usually happens if the catharanthus is cold. Move the flower pot to a warmer, brighter place - and he will thank you with abundant flowering.
• The leaves begin to turn yellow, flowering stops. Examine the flower pot. If it is not large, if the roots of the catharanthus appeared from the drainage holes, it means that your pet has become cramped in this pot and it's time to transplant it into a wider and deeper flowerpot. It will take a little time, and the plant will come to life and begin to bloom.
• The quarantus began dropping buds. This happens when there is insufficient attention to the flower: poor lighting, lack of moisture in the soil or low air humidity.
• Young leaves are falling from the tops of the shoots. Perhaps you rarely water the flower, it lacks moisture. At the same time, check other nuances of care: whether it is warm, light, and whether any insects bite it.

Insects - pests

We introduced you to the catharanthus indoor flower. Believe that you will spend less time caring for him than reading this article! This is a completely unpretentious plant, but so sweet and responsive to any attention to it from the grower. Kataranthus is good because this small, compact bush blooms profusely with bright acrylic flowers from spring to October. At the same time, it grows quickly and multiplies easily. Knowing the simple rules for caring for it, you will always have a grateful plant in your house, ready to decorate the interior of your house all year round.

Varieties for planting and their photos

Kataranthus is an evergreen tropical plant that has successfully taken root in our climate. On the planet, an exotic shrub is quite common, but the island of Madagascar is considered the place of origin.

To date, breeders have bred many different varieties. Some are suitable for growing indoors. These species live excellently in warm houses, apartments and delight their owners with long flowering. Others are annuals and are planted annually using cuttings from the mother flower from the previous year or seedlings.

And still others are perennials, specially bred for street gardening. Flowers in the warm season are on the street, and with the advent of autumn, winter indoors. It is these varieties that are less whimsical and tolerate all the vagaries of nature well, with the exception of cold weather.

Among them the most popular is the type Cooler. It is a tall shrub growing up to 1.5 meters in height. Blooms profusely for six months. It has large and round flowers with a bright eye. This variety, in turn, includes subspecies.

Cascade

This is the only ampelous variety among flowering species, the hanging shoots of which can reach a length of more than 1.5 meters. The colors are varied.

Albus

White petals, yellowish center. On leaves with pointed ends there is a white vein.

Grape

A distinctive feature of this variety is the purple color of the petals and the existing pink center.

Red

The name clearly matches the shade. The bright red hue looks spectacular against the background of dark green foliage.

First kiss

This variety is unique not only in the name, but also in a huge range of colors. The most unusual and therefore popular color of velvet petals is violet-blue.

How to plant?

Planting and caring for a catharanthus is not a particular problem.. Perennials are grown as an indoor flower, and for open space annuals are often chosen to avoid problems with wintering.

Of course, in order for a plant to feel comfortable on the street, fully develop, bloom for a long time, it needs to find the perfect place for planting. First of all, you should take into account the fact that the tropical shrub is thermophilic. He does not like darkened corners and cold winds, as well as a place under the scorching sun.

The best option for a catharanthus is a cozy section of the flower bed, well warmed by the rays, which is maximally protected from drafts and various elements of nature.

Is it possible in winter?

As already noted, the catharanthus prefers warmth and, accordingly, warm weather. For him, a temperature of + 10 ° C is critical, as a result, the plant may die. Therefore, a green shrub is planted in open ground when the temperature outside the window reaches + 20 ° C, night frosts and sudden temperature changes pass. This time is approximately the end of April - May.

All summer and the first month of autumn, the catharanthus blooms, and then it's time to winter. A tropical handsome man cannot stay outside, as he simply cannot stand the harsh winter.. Therefore, before the onset of frost, in the second half of October, the branches of the perennial are cut off, they are dug up directly with the roots and a clod of earth, and placed in a large-diameter pot. From above it should also be sprinkled with soil, in this form it is brought into a room with a temperature of + 15-17 ° C, but not lower. With the advent of heat, the bush is again planted in the soil.

How to choose a place?

The choice of a place for the future growth of a tropical plant should be approached with all seriousness, because the duration of flowering and an attractive appearance depend on it.

Quaranthus responds well to sunlight. The more light and warmer it is outside, the more magnificent and brighter the flowering will be. But everything is good in moderation. Getting enough UV is as bad as getting too hot. That's why it is better to choose a place on a personal plot in partial shade. And if not, then you should build a shelter, an awning made of transparent film, which will save the plant from scorching light, as well as from bad weather.

The shrub is not picky about the composition of the soil. However, it is important that it meets the following criteria: water and breathability, friability, lightness, and has a rich nutritional composition of macro and microelements. Also be well-drained, non-acidic, so that moisture does not stagnate. The soil should not be tightly packed so that it is not taken in a solid lump.

Important. Choose a site as far as possible from the occurrence of groundwater.

Land preparation

Before planting in open ground, the ground must first be dug up on the site, adding there:

• peat and sod land;
• peat;
• humus;
• expanded clay;
• natural baking powder, perlite or vermiculite;
• coarse fractional sand;
• several bags of ready-made substrate.

It is useful to use compost for the development and rapid growth of the root system.

1. Initially, a shallow hole is dug, in the shape of the desired flower plot of land.
2. Next, we place a thick drained layer on the bottom, consisting of expanded clay, broken bricks, marble chips, baking powder, pebbles, crushed stone, in general, what is at hand.
3. Sprinkle with dug up earth on top.

Reproduction methods

Quarantus can be planted in open ground in the form of seedlings, cuttings or a bush. In this case, seedlings and cuttings are considered parts annual plants, and the bush belongs to perennials. When choosing a breeding method, you should know the advantages of each type of planting material.

Seedling:

• can be grown at any time;
• fast and uniform germination;
• low cost of seeds;
• for one landing you can get up to a hundred copies at once;
• no need to transplant flowers for the winter.

Cuttings:

• cuttings do not require material costs;
• the procedure is within the power of even an inexperienced grower;
• the opportunity to get an exact copy of the plant you like.

The positive aspects of the method of planting a bush in open ground:

• the plant is fully formed, has a beautiful appearance;
• easily tolerates adaptation to a new place;
• acceleration of the flowering process.

There is an option - to plant a perennial catharanthus in containers, and in this way, decorate terraces, verandas. Ampel varieties look beautiful in hanging planters or in large flowerpots on stands. In this case, it is not necessary to transplant a flower for the winter.

Aftercare

• In the first time after transplantation, young individuals will need regular weeding. But when they grow up and get stronger, they will deal with the weeds on their own.
• Humidify the catharanthus with soft, filtered or rain water. In hot weather, the plant must be sprayed or a warm shower is best, best in the evening. Otherwise, water drops can leave dark marks and burns on the petals.
• Watering should be daily. With a lack of moisture, a tropical shrub immediately signals with leaves rolled into a tube. And after abundant moisture, after 30 minutes, unpleasant phenomena will disappear, the plant will restore its shape.
• Don't forget to feed. In the spring it is worth starting with complex mineral fertilizers. During flowering, potassium-phosphorus preparations can be used for abundant budding. The period of use of dressings is 1 time in 2-3 weeks. In autumn, food should be removed. Foliar dressings have proven themselves well, with an aqueous solution of Epin-Extra.
• Concerning organic fertilizers then you have to be careful with them. This means that with an increase in the dosage, the catharanthus will certainly receive damage in the form of yellow, burnt roots. This will lead to the death of the plant. It is safe to use wood ash dissolved in water.

If the plant does not take root

When, after planting, the shrub long time cannot acclimatize in the open field, then it is better to bring it back into the house. Dig it out of the ground, shake off the roots. Plant in the right soil, slightly moisten.

Perhaps the reason is an incorrectly selected variety that is not suitable for planting in a flower bed. Or not comfortable enough. In any case, you can try to reanimate the catharanthus at home. Optimize the temperature and humidity parameters in the room, regularly water and spray. But do not feed while the plant is sick.

Qataranthus has not only an impressive appearance, but also useful properties. This plant is used in folk and traditional medicine, for the treatment of serious diseases, including oncology. But shrub sap has toxic substances. Therefore, when landing on a personal plot, it is important to choose a place inaccessible to children.

In order to grow a healthy plant in your garden, you need to follow the subtleties of care. Everyone respects exotic flowers. In the above article, the editors intended to lay down many secrets to avoid disease when breeding a rare plant. The secrets of the content of most classes of colors do not differ. Each Living being requires a meticulous approach. It seems correct to clarify for useful procedures which family the acquired plant belongs to.

How to properly care for a catharanthus?

The soil should be nutritious and loose.

To do this, it is best to take one part of peat, humus, coarse sand, turf and leafy soil. But, in general, any fertile soil for catharanthus is also suitable, especially if there is no excess of salts in it. For growing in pots, you can use the earth for geraniums. The main thing is not to forget about drainage, using fine expanded clay.

Watering and air humidity.

Like all plants, pink catharanthus loves water. Therefore, it should be watered regularly, but in no case should it be flooded, especially in containers or pots. Therefore, if the flower pot is not on a pallet with expanded clay, then it is better to pour out excess water from the pallet.

Flower growers who have pink periwinkle growing in the garden are well aware that in a rainy, too wet summer, plant growth slows down. A flower that is constantly flooded, if it also grows in too dense soil, may suddenly die due to rotting of the roots.

However, the earthy coma should not be brought to dryness. In some varieties of plants, lack of moisture leads to curling of the leaves. The leaves curl up into tubes, and it seems that the flower has died. But don't despair right away. Abundant watering - and in an hour the leaves will unwind again.

So that in rainy weather the catharanthus does not suffer from excessive moisture, do not plant it too crowded. Planting in a container should also not be too crowded: after all, spraying is a little rain.

Once every ten days, water your periwinkle with a special fertilizer containing potassium and phosphorus. Suitable fertilizer for roses. A home flower will thank you for this with a particularly spectacular bloom.

If the catharanthus does not like too wet ground, then, on the contrary, it welcomes high humidity. Spray the flower more often, in winter it is better to do this with warm water. Also, take care of ventilation.

Location and temperature.

If the catharanthus grows in the house, then it should stand in a bright place. The more light, the better. In case of lack of lighting, the stems will stretch, become thinner, the flowers will become smaller, and their number will also be reduced. The east and west windows are great places to grow catharanthus. Pink periwinkle is a native of the tropics, so it loves warmth. Indoor temperature should not fall below 5-8 degrees. The optimal one is 15-30.

On the street to the bright sun, it is better to accustom the catharanthus gradually. When planting seedlings, think about whether this place will be protected from the cold wind. Draft and cold wind can destroy the plant.

Although the pink catharanthus is a distant relative for our familiar periwinkle, but, unlike it, it will not be able to spend the winter in a flower bed in the garden. A flower growing on the street will die with the onset of frost. Therefore, if you want to admire exactly the same variety of catharanthus next year, you need to break the cuttings and root them, transferring them to a warm house. Even a room catharanthus in the summer is better to take out to the balcony and put it in a bright place. Let it "breathe" with fresh air.

Transplanting and pruning - catharanthus and care.

Although the catharanthus is a perennial (if it grows in a house or in its homeland), it is not worth keeping it at home for more than three years. It is better to rejuvenate the plant by cuttings. Young plants look more impressive. But, if you cut the catharanthus by more than one third, then the flowers and leaves will become much smaller. (With good care, the leaves reach seven centimeters, and the flowers - five centimeters).

Pinch a flower planted in a flower bed as mercilessly as an indoor one, once a week for one and a half to two months. Thanks to such a merciless pinching, the flower bed will be simply gorgeous. After all, flowers appear at the tips of the stems, in the upper axils of the leaves. The more stems, the more flowers. Although it must be admitted that scientists have bred varieties in which branching is genetically incorporated.

Do not forget that the plant is poisonous. Eighty alkaloids contained in periwinkle rose is not a joke to you. Skin irritation may occur, so it is better to work with gloves or trim with small scissors.

To summarize all of the above:

In order for the catharanthus to be beautiful and blooming profusely, we must do the following:

If you fulfill all these simple care requirements, then the catharanthus, as a very grateful plant, will surely decorate your garden and house with its flowers in gratitude for the care.

Growing catharanthus from seeds

But on the windowsill it is quite possible. If there is additional lighting, then seeds can be sown for seedlings without waiting for spring, in February. Catharanthus seeds are not petunia seeds, which are difficult to see. Compared to petunias, they are large and powerful.

The sowing depth should not be more than one and a half centimeters. First, water the earth, wait until the water is absorbed, and only then proceed to sowing the seeds. Darkness is necessary for sown seeds. Therefore, they need to be covered with a dark film and patiently wait for the result for seven to ten days, if the temperature is about 23-24 degrees. When sprouts appear, the film is removed.

This is the official version of seed sowing. But from the experience of amateur gardeners, one can conclude that even without a film, the seeds also germinate perfectly. It is good to grow seeds in peat tablets. True, due to the small amount of soil, you need to carefully monitor the watering of the seedlings: do not overdry, do not overmoisten when you remove the film.

The sprouts that have appeared remain at the same level for a long time - they build up their root system. But do not rush to feed sprouted plants with fertilizer. From the moment the sprouts appear to the first feeding, at least two to three weeks should pass.

The first pick is carried out if the plant has already had four leaves. It is better to plant two or three plants in a pot, and then transfer them into open ground together, so as not to disturb the root system.

If you try to separate these bushes, then the woven roots will break, and the pink periwinkle endures such an operation very painfully, and then, if it does not die, it slows down in growth for a long time. The distance between such planted groups of plants should be at least thirty centimeters.

Kataranthus is a "fast" flower. Therefore, by the end of summer, he will already cover the ground with a flowering rug.

Propagation of catharanthus by cuttings

If you don’t have seeds, but it is possible to get a cutting, then growing in such a vegetative way will also not be difficult. The cuttings should not be stiff. Apical green cuttings are suitable for propagation of the periwinkle in a vegetative way. They take root perfectly in water, especially if a few drops of a stimulant are added there. And you can plant cuttings immediately in wet sand mixed with fertile soil. But in this case, it is better to cover them with a plastic bag or a regular jar. Cuttings can be rooted both in spring after pruning, and in autumn, cutting off green shoots from a plant growing outside. But the temperature, in order for the rooting of the cuttings to be successful, must be at least twenty degrees.

Quaranthus and pests are problems in cultivation.

If the periwinkle grew outside in the summer, then before you bring the plant into the room, check to see if it has been attacked by aphids. Also, a spider mite and a scale insect can encroach on a flower. If this happened indoors, then the air for the flower is too dry. Spray the plant more often, and remove the pests with a brush dipped in alcohol and treat with special products. Not bad in this case, a soapy solution helps, which can also be used to process the leaves without harm to the plant. Also brown rust can attack the catharanthus. The leaves are then covered from below with "pustules".

Caring for a catharanthus - as well as for any house plant, you need to watch:

See continuation: "Kataranthus - the perfect guest from Madagascar" "Periwinkle in the house and garden: catharanthus and company"

garden plants

Kataranthus - cultivation and care

Perennials are one of the most common options for landscaping indoors and gardens. This is not surprising, because by planting a perennial, you get rid of the need to annually purchase seeds and sow them, waiting for them to sprout?

In this article we will talk about catharanthus, planting and caring for this plant.

Quaranthus in the garden

Kataranthus belongs to the botanical family of kutrovye and is an evergreen perennial up to one and a half meters high. The leaves are shiny, smooth, dark green in color, flowering is plentiful, the flowers look like a periwinkle. It was this external similarity that was the reason that for quite a long time scientists considered the cataranthus to be related to the periwinkle and called it “wine” or “pink periwinkle”.

It is difficult to determine the homeland of the catharanthus, since in the wild it is widely distributed in Africa, India, Cuba, Madagascar, Java and the Philippines.

Quarantus in a flower bed can only be grown in regions with a mild warm climate. Of course, you can plant it in the garden in the middle latitudes, but the catharanthus in the open field will not be able to overwinter.

Quaranthus: cultivation

The plant prefers bright areas with a limited amount of direct sunlight. The west and east sides of the garden (or windows facing those sides) are great for a catharanthus. The plant does not like excessive soil moisture (especially in spring - excess moisture in the spring can completely destroy the flower), but the air must be well moistened. In order for the catharanthus to develop well, it needs regular spraying. When growing in a pot, take care of a sufficient amount of soil, because the plant develops quickly enough.

The best soil for catharanthus is a mixture of sand, peat, humus, leaf and sod land (in equal amounts). In the warm season, the catharanthus feels good at a temperature of 19-25 ° C, and during the dormant period, the temperature in the room with the plant should be in the range of 12-18 ° C.

The plant should be transplanted annually, and in case of rapid growth in the summer, two or three transfers to larger pots can be made. If the catharanthus is not transplanted in time, the roots are braided with an earthen ball in a pot and the plant begins to weaken - the leaves turn yellow and fall off, flowering decreases or stops. So that the shoots of the catharanthus do not stretch too much, in the spring they are cut to a third of the length.

In the spring, the plant needs to be fed - complex mineral and phosphorus fertilizers twice a month will come just right.

Make sure that pests do not appear on the leaves of the catharanthus and destroy them in a timely manner. The most common pests of this plant are: mealybug. whitefly. shield and aphids.

Quaranthus: reproduction

There are the following methods of propagation of catharanthus: growing from seeds, dividing the bush, cuttings.

Adult plants are propagated during spring transplantation, simply dividing the bush into several parts and planting each of them separately.

Cuttings are also carried out in the spring, dropping the branches remaining after pruning into the soil.

At proper care at home, catharanthus quite often forms fruits and seeds. The collected seeds are suitable for sowing.

Sowing catharanthus is best done in the spring. Seeds before planting should be treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and dried a little (until flowability). The seeds are small and should not be buried deep. The container with crops is covered with glass and placed in a bright, warm (+ 25-30 ° C) place. The first shoots appear after 20-22 days. As necessary, seedlings dive.

Remember that the catharanthus is poisonous, which means that when growing this plant, precautions should be taken - it should be cut and transplanted with gloves, after working with the catharanthus, you should thoroughly wash your hands with soap and water. And of course, you need to carefully ensure that the flower is in a place inaccessible to children or pets.

Catharanthus

It is a small perennial subshrub growing to an average of 60 cm in height. It has erect branched stems with oppositely arranged leaves of an oblong-lanceolate shape, dark green in color, with a light central vein, up to 7 cm long. The flowers are simple, with five petals, pink, lilac or white, similar in appearance to the flowers of balsam or "Vanka-wet". Under favorable conditions, the catharanthus can bloom from May to the end of September.

General information about catharanthus

catharanthus (catharanthus), kutrovye family. Other names: periwinkle, vinca

Number. In nature, only 5 species are common.

Place of origin. Homeland - tropical rainforests, mainly about. Madagascar.

Usage. beautifully flowering, potted.

Plant sizes. 35-70 cm in height.

Growth: very fast.

Bloom. March-October.

Catharanthus care and maintenance

temperature (winter): 12 - 18

temperature (summer): 20 - 25

Lighting. Catharanthus needs a very bright, sunny location with some direct sun. Grows well on east and west windows. To the bright sun in the spring should be accustomed gradually.

Watering the catharanthus. Quarantus is watered quite abundantly all the time of the year, the soil should not dry out, but avoid excessive dampness.

Reproduction of catharanthus. Quarantus is propagated by seeds, which are sown in February - March. And also not lignified, i.e. green cuttings.

Air humidity. Quaranthus loves very humid air. It is necessary to carry out regular spraying, or you can put the pot on a pallet with wet pebbles or expanded clay.

Catharthus transplant. The soil should be loose and have a slightly acidic reaction. Soil - 1 part of sod land, 1 part of leaf, 1 part of humus, 1 part of peat land and 1 part of sand. Drainage is required. The catharanthus is transplanted annually.

Feeding catharanthus. With the formation of flowers and new leaves, the catharanthus is fed with a special fertilizer for decorative flowering plants, adding it to the water for irrigation. Top dressing about 3 times a month.

Cutting the catharanthus. pinch regularly, cut strongly in February, leaving a stump of 8-10 cm

Pests and diseases of catharanthus

Most often affected by the scutellum and spider mite. Contributes to the appearance of pests too dry air in the room. If the catharanthus is kept outside in the summer, then it may be attacked by aphids. In this case, it is necessary to carry out inspection and preventive treatment before bringing the plant into the room.

Features of caring for catharanthus

The plant is poisonous!

The ends of the leaves dry up, the leaves turn yellow, the leaf tissue dies off - a lot of light and dry air.

Caring for a catharanthus at home: a bright semi-shrub

A seductive flower that brings southern warmth and Mediterranean color into the house - all this is a catharanthus home care for which is pleasant and simple. After all, this plant is quite undemanding. And when in bloom it looks very impressive. In addition, since ancient times, it is still popular among healers and doctors of our time.

Soil and top dressing

When planting, be sure to use a pot with a hole. Quaranthus grows well in fertile soil. The store-bought substrate is suitable for any, for flowering plants. But it's very easy to make your own. Enough to mix:

• 25% coarse sand;
• 25% peat;
• 25% sod land;
• 25% humus.

We should not forget about drainage, which needs to be laid in a layer of 4 cm. This will allow excess water to leave the pot and will not lead to rotting of the roots. In the form of drainage, small stones, and expanded clay and pebbles are used. When planting in a pot, it is important to monitor the condition of the hole to prevent clogging. To do this, periodically clean it.

Young catharanthus needs constant fertilizer. It should be fed once a week at rest. From spring to autumn 2 times a week. It is recommended to use any fertilizer of your choice for indoor flowering plants, such as Greenworld, Uniflor-bud, Kemira-Lux.

Transfer

The catharanthus is transplanted often - once a year in the spring. This happens because the plant grows very quickly. It is important to consider this point when transplanting and new pot choose a few sizes larger than before. A new pot must be chosen with a hole in the bottom. Drainage and substrate use new.

It is advisable to disinfect the pot before planting - rinse with a cleaning agent and pour boiling water over it. If the root system has developed too much, and it is impossible to get the plant without damaging it, it is advised to wrap the pot with a towel and break it. If the pot is plastic, it is enough to cut it. The main thing is not to damage the delicate roots.

Then comes the stage of examining the roots to identify the dead (rotten and dry). If there are any, they must be removed, otherwise they can destroy the entire plant. You need to cut carefully with a very sharp object (you can use a new blade).

When you only have old scissors or a knife at hand, they must be boiled (8 minutes is enough) so as not to infect the stem. It is desirable to amputate 4 cm higher from the diseased area, thereby protecting the flower from further development illness.

The wound should be sprinkled with gray or charcoal crumbs. After planting, the catharanthus is well watered and pruned. Cut stems are used for propagation.

Circumcision has a few basic rules:

• branches are docked at 1/3 of their height;
• all dry stems are removed (the knife is pre-disinfected);
• the cut is sprinkled with sulfur.

Watering

Quaranthus from southern countries and loves to shower. Therefore, in the summer it should be watered 3 times a week. The soil must not be allowed to dry out. But it shouldn't rot either. Therefore, after watering, after 20 minutes, the water remaining on the pan does not interfere with pouring out, otherwise the roots may rot with prolonged contact with water.

The flower loves to be sprayed. For watering and spraying, the water should be at room temperature, settling for a couple of days. In winter, watering is reduced to 1 time per week. The soil, between watering, should dry out in winter.

Lighting

Quarantus takes root well in bright places. But the light for him should be diffused. In summer it will bloom magnificently on the western window, but the eastern one will do. In the morning, you should protect the flower from direct sunlight. Place it in the shade or draw down a curtain.

For the summer, a pot with a plant can be taken out into the garden, but choose a place for it where it will not be flooded in case of rain.

For the winter, it is recommended to move the catharanthus to the south side of the window in a warm place. With poor lighting in winter, the plant reaches for the light source, thereby stretching its stems. You can get out of the situation. It is enough to strengthen the phytolamp on top at a distance of 8-10 cm on a flower.

Temperature

Although Kataranthus came to us from the sultry southern countries, even in the summertime he got used to room temperature, not higher than 25 0С, ideally 20-25 0С. In winter it prefers a lower temperature of 12-160C.

It is very important to maintain the humidity of the air. When it dries out, the plant suffers greatly. Therefore, it needs frequent spraying. If it is not possible to buy a humidifier for the air, you can put a container of water next to the pot. In winter, in heating season, you can hang a wet towel on a hot battery.

reproduction

Catharanthus propagates in two ways - vegetatively and by seeds.

In early spring, the seed is planted to a depth of 2 cm in the soil. He needs to provide good nutritious soil. Seeds must be covered with an opaque film, because. it will grow only in the dark. The temperature is desirable to maintain 23-250C. In this case, the first sprouts will not take long to wait and will appear in a week. As soon as they appeared, the film must be removed and the temperature reduced to 200C. Bait should be done 14 days after the sprouts have sprouted. Fertilizer for flowering houseplants in a lower concentration is suitable here. You can plant young flowers when they grow up to 10 cm and there will be 4-5 petals on the stem. It should be planted in a voluminous, with a hole at the bottom, a pot, providing the necessary soil and drainage.

Quarantus also propagates by apical cuttings. To do this, they are placed in water. As soon as the root appears, they are transplanted into a separate pot.

Quarantus does not require constant attention and particularly reverent care, but caring for it will be rewarded with lush, exquisite flowers.

Quaranthus photo

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Secrets of growing catharanthus in the garden and apartment

Quaranthus - tropical perennial shrub, better known to Russian flower growers as pink periwinkle or cayenne jasmine. Representative of the genus evergreens from the kutrov family. Its name in Greek means "pure, clear flower."

It is not possible to accurately determine its homeland, since in the wild it is found in the forests of Indonesia, Cuba, China, India, and the Philippines. Most scientists agree that the catharanthus came to us from the island of Madagascar, where there are 7 of its species.

In wild subtropical forests, the catharanthus bush grows up to 1.5 meters in height. In our climate, the maximum growth of this shrub is 60 cm.

The catharanthus has erect stems branching at the tops. The leaves are oblong, dark green with a white longitudinal vein. The length of the leaf is about 7 cm. During the flowering period, the bush is covered with wheel-shaped flowers. Kataranthus blooms 60-70 days after germination. Flowering is long, until the onset of cold weather. After flowering, a double-leaved fruit with elongated seeds is formed.

IMPORTANT. Parts of the catharanthus contain alkaloids, so you should work with it with gloves so as not to get allergies or poisoning.

Popular varieties of catharanthus and their photos

As a result of interspecific hybridization, breeders have created a decorative series of varieties of catharanthus. The most popular are the following varieties-series:

• Albus is a variety with snow-white flowers.
• Ocellatus - in the center of a white flower is a red eye.
• Cooler - the series is distinguished by a variety of flower shades from pink to bright red.
• Parasol is a low-growing variety (up to 40 cm). Differs in large white flowers with a dark red eye.

Rules for growing catharanthus in open ground

For planting a catharanthus, it is necessary to choose a place as lit and warm as possible.

Cataranthus in temperate climates is considered a houseplant, but recently it can be increasingly found in garden plots. The plant is quite unpretentious, and if you follow some rules for caring for it, you can get a fairly ornamental plant to decorate the landscape.

Where to grow a flower

A place for a shrub should be chosen as bright and warm as possible, but at the same time direct sunlight should not fall on it for a long time .. It is important to choose a site protected from the winds.

IMPORTANT. Do not plant catharanthus in places where moisture stagnates, in such conditions it will die.

The shrub prefers light and nutritious soil. The ideal composition would be sand, peat, humus and earth in equal parts.

ATTENTION. If on site acidic soil, be sure to make it or add wood ash.

Time of sowing and planting in the ground of cataranthus

Quarantus is grown by seedling method. Sowing seedlings is carried out in February. Seeds are sown in shallow boxes to a depth of 1-2 cm. The containers are covered with glass and placed in a warm, at least 25 degrees, place.

Seedlings appear in 2-3 weeks. At this time, they need to be placed in a cooler place. With a lack of lighting, seedlings need to be highlighted with phytolamps. In the phase of 3 leaves, the sprouts dive into separate containers.

Seedlings need to be hardened by walking on the balcony when it gets warm. To form compact, lush bushes, ten-centimeter sprouts are pinched.

Landing in open ground is carried out late spring, after the onset of real heat. The air temperature for landing should be at least 20 degrees Celsius.

Correct fit

Before planting the catharanthus, dig a good place for planting.

Before planting, the flower bed should be dug up well. It is advisable to add a little expanded clay or fine gravel to it. For planting, they dig a hole and lay a layer of drainage on its bottom. A little soil is poured over the drainage layer.

Caring for a catharanthus plant after planting

Caring for a catharanthus consists of watering, fertilizing, pruning. In the initial period after planting, weeds around the bush must also be removed. As the bush grows, it will be able to fight them on its own.

Required watering and air humidity

You need to water the plant regularly, preventing the soil from drying out. If you notice that the leaves have begun to curl, then the plant does not have enough moisture. At the same time, excess moisture in the soil is contraindicated for the plant. At the same time, it is very important to support high level humidity in the air. During dry periods, the catharanthus should be sprayed daily, and on especially hot days in the morning and evening.

Coolness and rain are contraindicated for catharanthus. If after planting, cold, rainy weather has set in, the plant takes on an oppressed appearance: the stems droop, and the flowers begin to fall off. Help him by setting up a rain cover over him in the form of an awning.

Plant nutrition rules

It is good to feed the catharanthus with a solution of ash

In spring, the catharanthus needs abundant nutrition. It should be fertilized with universal mixtures for decorative flowering plants. Top dressing spend the entire vegetative period every 2 weeks. A solution with fertilizer is poured under the root of the shrub after watering.

Fertilizing with a solution of ash (100 g per 10 liters) has a beneficial effect on the plant. For foliar dressings the drug Epin - Extra is suitable. They spray a bush instead of one of the root dressings once a month. With the beginning of autumn, feeding is stopped.

IMPORTANT. Do not exceed the dose of minerals in the fertilizer solution, this can cause root burn.

shrub pruning

The shrub does not need formative pruning in the summer, as varietal catharanthus independently form a compact, lush bush. At the same time, yellowed, broken shoots should be regularly trimmed. Such sanitary pruning stimulates the growth of new stems, and the plant quickly restores its shape.

In the spring, when transplanting a plant that has wintered in an apartment, the tips of the shoots are cut off in order to stimulate growth for the formation of additional stems. In this way, a beautiful plant shape is obtained, which it will maintain all summer.

Pests, diseases and control measures

Like many garden plants, catharanthus is affected by the following pests: aphids, whiteflies. scale insect, mealybug. It is easy to find them by the condition of the leaves. If a white coating, spots appeared on the leaves, or they suddenly began to curl and dry out, then the plant was attacked by insects. They should be dealt with by spraying with insecticides.

Sometimes the catharanthus is affected by brown rust. Spots appear on the leaves - pustules. The cause of the disease is too high humidity of the soil or air in combination with low temperature. An additional reason is the lack of nitrogen in the soil. Spray the bush with Bordeaux liquid and feed nitrogen fertilizer or mullein solution.

Methods of propagation of the flower cataranthus

Quarantus can be propagated by seeds, dividing the bush and cuttings

The shrub propagates in three ways:

1. The division of the bush. It is carried out in the spring when the plant is transferred from the room to the ground. Depending on the size of the root, it can be easily divided into 2-3 parts and planted separately.
2. cuttings. The tops of the shoots obtained during the spring pruning of the shrub are used. The blanks are placed in moist soil and rooted.
3. Sowing seeds. During the summer period, the seeds of the catharanthus do not ripen. To obtain material suitable for sowing, the bush is grown at room conditions. Full-fledged seeds ripen by spring. It is at this time that they are sown in flat boxes filled with nutrient soil. You need to sprinkle the seeds with a layer of no more than 1 cm. After sowing, the container is covered with a film or glass and kept at a temperature of 25-30 degrees. Sprouts appear after 20-25 days.

Organization of wintering

Kataranthus is a heat-loving plant and cannot survive a harsh winter. In the second half of October, the bushes are dug up, having previously cut the branches, and placed in large pots. The containers are covered with a mixture of sand and earth.

The wintering of the catarthus takes place indoors with a temperature of 15-17 degrees. In winter, it does not need to be watered. In such conditions, the bush is kept until the onset of heat. In the spring, the rhizome is planted in a flower bed.

Quaranthus as a garden decoration

Quarantus will be perfectly erased in the flower bed and in the garden

The appearance of this plant is so attractive that it can decorate any corner of the site. Quarantus looks great in a flower bed, as a border. Ampel varieties look spectacular in hanging planters. Low-growing species can be grown in containers or flowerpots.

Annual flowers can be added as neighbors to the catharanthus. Both matching combinations and contrasting ones are created.

Quarantus at room conditions

When growing this perennial in the house, it turns into an ever-flowering plant. Keep it in a bright place, but without direct sunlight. The most suitable place is the western or eastern windows. On the north window, the light will not be enough. If the windows in the house are oriented to the south, then it is impossible to keep the catharanthus on the windowsill.

Choose a large pot for growing immediately, as this flower is fast-growing. For planting, a layer of drainage is poured on the bottom of the tank, then it is filled with a substrate consisting of soil, peat and sand in equal amounts. For nutritional value, you can add a little humus.

ATTENTION. If there are children or pets in the house, it is better to refuse to grow catharanthus. All parts of the flower are poisonous and can cause severe poisoning or serious allergic reactions.

Home care consists of watering, spraying and fertilizing. It is impossible to allow the earth to dry out in a pot, from this the plant will slow down growth and flowering.

The lack of moisture is immediately reflected in the appearance of the catharanthus - the leaves instantly curl. If this happens, water the flower well and spray it.

Water for irrigation and spraying should be taken settled, at room temperature.

Don't let the soil dry out

IMPORTANT. Be sure to drain excess water from the pan when watering so that the roots of the flower do not rot.

Plant transplantation is carried out annually. When transplanting, it is necessary to carry out forming pruning. Every 4-5 years, the plant needs to be “rejuvenated”, that is, the central lignified shoot must be cut and rooted. Without this procedure, the stems are pulled out, and the catharanthus loses its decorative effect.

The day before the transplant, the flower is not watered so that the earthen ball dries and strengthens. It is moved into a new pot by the method of cautious transshipment so that the earth does not crumble from the roots. The flower is placed in a new pot, and the free space of the pot (it should be 5-6 cm) is covered with new soil and rammed.

In summer, it is better to take a catharanthus to a balcony or loggia. At the same time, the plant needs active top dressing - once every two weeks. Any fertilizer for indoor plants will do.

IMPORTANT. When grown in a room, the bush needs mandatory pruning so that it does not grow in one lash.

Possible problems when growing catharanthus

Qataranthus signals unsuitable conditions for its maintenance or non-compliance with the rules for caring for its appearance. Watch the plant carefully and correct your mistakes in time.

• Soft, yellowing leaves- too much sun. In open ground, you need to build some kind of awning for the plant, but it is better to transplant the plant to a place where the rays are scattered. In the house, you need to rearrange the flower away from the window.
• Leaf tips turn yellow– low air humidity. At room conditions, installing the pot in a pan with expanded clay, on which water is poured, will help solve the problem. In the garden, the catharanthus needs to be sprayed.
• Yellowing and dropping of the lower leaves, provided that the color of the rest of the foliage is preserved - a natural process. No action should be taken in this case.
• Minimum number of flowers- the plant is cold. The problem can be solved only at room conditions by moving the catharanthus to a warmer place. In conditions open ground will have to wait for warmer weather.
• When grown at home, the plant may stop flowering and the leaves will start to turn yellow. This phenomenon suggests that the catharanthus is cramped in a pot and there is no room for growth and development. Taking the flower out of the pot, you will see that the roots have entwined the entire earthen ball. Transplant the catharanthus into a large pot and the plant will come to life.

As you can see, caring for a catharanthus is not that difficult. If you know and take into account all these nuances when growing, you will get a spectacular, long-flowering plant for decorating a garden plot or apartment interior.