Do-it-yourself installation of basement panels. How to install plinth siding with your own hands? Video - Installation, insulation with thermal panels
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Equipment and tools for installation of basement siding
Markup: building or water level, building cord or plumb line, pencil, tape measure and square.
Siding and lathing sawing: nibbler, hacksaw for metal or fine-toothed saw, cutter knife, electric jigsaw, Bulgarian.
Fastening the cladding: screwdriver, hammer, screwdriver (depends on the type of fasteners).
Fasteners: self-tapping screws with washers (for panels, length from 35 mm, for corner pieces - from 50 mm).
Preparation of the facade and lathing
Docke-R plinth siding is performed at temperatures above -15 ° C. The panels can be installed on any kind of wall. They are used for new, under construction, renovated buildings. Before the cladding begins, the preparation of the facade must be completed, including:
For fastening facade panels use a wooden or metal crate. For wooden lathing the strips are pre-treated with bio-fire protection. For metal lathing, galvanized steel profiles are used. Euromet engineers remind that the horizontal crate is assembled for sites vertical installation panels, fastening of starting and J-profiles. Corner pieces and upright siding are attached to the horizontal battens. The battens are placed with a step corresponding to the dimensions of the cladding elements. The lathing should form a flat, level surface. |
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Basic requirements for the installation of Deke-R basement siding
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The material changes size when heated and cooled. This must be taken into account during installation. To compensate for deformations, follow these guidelines. Self-tapping screws or nails are fixed strictly in the center of the nail hole. The rod of a nail or self-tapping screw is placed horizontally. A gap of up to 1 mm is left between the surface of the siding and the head of the hardware. It is impossible to firmly press the cladding to the base with a self-tapping screw or a nail. When connecting the panels, each subsequent one is inserted into the previous one until it stops. This ensures that the correct temperature gap is maintained. Facade cladding can be performed at temperatures above -15 ° C. |
Starting bars
Before starting work on cladding, the basement of the house is measured by fixing the lower and upper points of the walls. To do this, use the hydro level, putting the appropriate marks on the walls. Measurements are performed at all corners around the perimeter of the house. If the horizontal level is maintained, you will come to the starting point. Next, measure the distance from the applied marks to the actual bottom of the walls.
The distance is the same for all marks. This means that the foundation is level. Corner starter bars are installed using a hydro level. They are connected to each other by wall starting profiles.
The distance for different marks is different. This means that the foundation is not leveled. If the slope is small, to compensate for the unevenness, a blind area is equipped, observing the applied markings. Installation of starter planks is carried out in the same way as for a flat foundation. If the blind area cannot be made, you need to abandon the use of starting elements.
If starting profiles are not used, mark the height at which the second row of basement siding will be located. The required distance is set aside from this height and the lower panels are cut along it. The trimmed elements are installed by fastening them with hardware through the nail holes. If necessary, drill additional holes for nails at the bottom of the part. This is done on the “seam” section so that the head of the nail or screw is invisible.
J-profile installation
J-profile is used as an edging and as a trim inner corners building.
J-profile for finishing inside corners
Uses 2 universal J-profiles. The elements are cut to length and attached to the sides of the wall joint (Fig. 3).
Each J-profile is fixed along the entire length with self-tapping screws at a distance of 15-20 cm. The upper self-tapping screw is screwed in, placing its rod closer to the upper edge of the nail hole. Subsequent self-tapping screws are screwed into the center of the holes.
J-profile as edging to the top of the panels
At the end of the installation of the basement siding, the upper edge of the panel is closed with a J-profile. To do this, it is mounted on a crate along the upper edge of the wall (Fig. 4). If the gable is cladding, the profile is fixed below the roof overhang.
The universal J-profile is installed in the same way as other Docke-R elements (fig. 2). To make a joint with the panel, it is slightly bent.
Installation of facade panels starts from the left edge of the wall, moving to the right. Installation starts from the bottom row (Fig. 5). The lower part of the panel is joined to the starting profile and fastened with self-tapping screws through the nail holes (Fig. 2). Each next item in the row is attached in the same way as the initial part. When fastening, it is brought into the previous panel until it touches the stops. The second panel is attached to the crate as shown in fig. 2. Next, a row of siding is mounted in the same way. The last part is cut to length and then fastened with self-tapping screws along the upper edge through the nail holes. When the first row of plinth siding is installed, begin attaching the next row. It is done in a similar way. |
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Important!
To make the drawing look natural when installing front panels, each row is shifted horizontally relative to the previous one. For Deke-R basement siding from the collection, an offset of half a "brick" (97 mm) is recommended. For other facade panels, the offset is arbitrary.
When attaching the last row, the top of the panels is fixed with a J-profile. The edges of the parts are inserted into it, after which the final fixation of the cladding is carried out through the vertical nail holes.
Installation of corner pieces
If you follow the installation instructions for Deke-R basement siding, then the facade finish will serve for a long time and please with its appearance.
Vinyl basement siding it is used not only for finishing foundations, but even walls. The material is easy to use and will last for decades if installed correctly. To help you avoid mistakes, I will tell you how to choose quality material and how to properly carry out the work on your own.
Features of basement siding
First, we will analyze the features of the material, and then we will tell you how to correctly carry out the calculation work. At the end of this section, you will find a list of the main manufacturers that are well established in the market.
Material description
On sale you can find not only plastic option, there are metal siding, concrete panels and fiber-reinforced concrete products. Therefore, first of all, you should learn the features of vinyl panels and understand their main advantages:
- Elements are made of polyvinyl chloride by extrusion... To increase the strength and protection from the weather and the sun, modifying additives are introduced into the composition. They improve quality finished products and improve appearance basement siding;
- Plastic does not support combustion, since fire retardant additives are added to the composition. Thanks to them, the panels melt under the influence of an open flame, and also have the property of self-extinguishing;
- The finish is not afraid of water... Plastic does not absorb moisture and tolerates constant moisture, which is always near the soil surface. Chemical resistance is another advantage of vinyl;
- The material is safe for human health and environment ... It does not release into the atmosphere harmful substances even when exposed to high temperatures;
- With temperature drops, the structure of the siding does not change... But in cold weather, the finish becomes fragile, you should not hit it, so as not to damage the panels;
- The casing is assembled so that air can freely penetrate through it... This allows ventilation of the lower part, which is especially important for screw and pile foundations;
- Insulation is placed under the basement panels, if necessary... And this does not require additional work, the main thing is to fix thermal insulation material to keep it secure;
- Service life is 30 to 50 years... Elements retain vivid colors for at least 10 years;
- The cladding is mounted independently... This does not require special skills, it is enough to know how to use a household power tool.
Related articles:
Calculation of material and purchase of components
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Basement siding is calculated as follows:
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The outer corner of the basement siding is calculated as follows:
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Inside corners are counted in the same way as outside.... If there are any, then these components are also purchased. Many manufacturers do not have an inner corner in the list of accessories, so check availability in advance. |
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The starter strip is used as a support for the panels... It fits along the entire bottom edge. |
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J profile is installed on the upper end of the structure... But it can also be used as a starting bar if you need to display the level on uneven areas and if the foundation is inclined. It is calculated by total length top end. |
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A metal sheen protects the top end from moisture penetration... Used when you need to close a wide ledge. The elements are sloped for efficient moisture removal. If installed metal element, then the J bar can be omitted. |
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Sheathing material... There are two options here:
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Types and manufacturers
There is a lot of information on brands, you can find it on manufacturers' websites or on special forums - "Equipped", "Forumhouse" and so on. We'll cover the main features in one section. By type, the following options can be distinguished:
- Brick or clinker... Simulates brickwork different colors and configurations. There are many options, so it will not be difficult to choose suitable solution for your foundation;
- Under a natural stone ... This option goes well with any building and can imitate any breed;
- Under the tree... There is also such a group of products, they are made in the form of a flat board or in the form of shingles. There are many colors and textures, each manufacturer has its own line;
The main manufacturers of basement siding:
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Feinber (Feinbier). The photo shows one of the most popular Dolomite collections. A wide range of products and accurate reproduction of the structure of natural materials are the main advantages of this option. The finish does not fade over time and retains its brightness for a long time. |
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Deke (popularly called Docker). There are 5 collections imitating brick and natural stone. It can be bought in almost all cities of the country. The products are durable, since with inside panels are reinforced with stiffeners. |
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Alta Profile... Domestic brand, products are of good quality and affordable cost. There are several collections to choose from that imitate natural materials. |
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Yu-Plast... Produces panels with a double lock, the most popular collection of "Stone House", one of the options is shown in the photo. The elements look natural, you can only understand that there is plastic in front of you upon closer examination. |
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Vox. The manufacturer is distinguished by a wide range of products and components, as well as high quality products. Dozens of options that imitate stone, brick and wood will allow you to choose the optimal design for the basement. |
Installation of basement siding
You can mount panels without outside help... Below is a step-by-step algorithm for carrying out the work.
Plinth siding installation tools
The work is done with the following tool:
- Roulette and level... With their help, measurements are taken and the plane of the structure is controlled. Also get a felt-tip pen, it is more convenient for them to mark up than with a pencil;
- Hacksaw for wood with fine teeth... She perfectly saws panels. Instead of hand tool you can use a jigsaw; a blade with fine teeth is placed on it;
- Bulgarian... It is used for cutting metal profiles under the frame. You can use regular metal scissors instead. If the frame is from shaped pipe, then you need exactly the grinder;
- Screwdriver. During the installation process, you will have to tighten a lot of self-tapping screws, so you need a power tool with PH2 bits. Also stock up on drills, if necessary, you can drill small holes.
How to prepare a house for siding installation
The surface on which the siding will be mounted must be prepared. Everything is simple here:
- Concrete or plastered surfaces are cleaned... If the surface is not cracked or damaged, then nothing needs to be done. If there are flaws, then they are sealed with cement mortar;
- The wooden base is tested for strength... Damaged elements are replaced. The surface is treated with an antiseptic composition to protect against pests and mold;
- Piles are processed protective compound ... No other preparation is required.
How the lathing is done
Fastening of the basement siding is carried out on supporting frame... There are several ways to install it:
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If the height of the base less height panels, then two horizontal crossbars are placed along the top and bottom edges. The bottom element is positioned 5 cm from the ground. Top - along the top trim line. If desired, crossbars are added every 50-70 cm.
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The second option is vertical racks. They need to be fixed every 30-40 cm.This solution is used on concrete foundations... The profile is attached through suspensions, with their help, the distance from the wall to the edge is set in order to lay the insulation. |
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The wooden frame is placed in the same way as the metal one. The main thing is that before installing the elements, you should treat them with an antiseptic to protect them from pests. |
Siding installation
The work guide looks like this:
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The starting bar is attached... It is located according to the following rules:
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The outer corners are fixed... They are set according to the level of the panels. For work, self-tapping screws with a press washer or galvanized nails with enlarged heads are used. |
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The edge of the panel entering the corner is cut off... It must be flat for a good fit. The size is determined locally. Remember that the minimum element length must not be less than 30 cm. |
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The panel is joined to the corner... The element is placed in the starting bar and wound up in the corner. Do not place the elements tightly; a deformation gap of 2-3 mm is left between them. |
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The panel is fixed with nails or self-tapping screws... They are located in the middle of the slots. It is not necessary to hammer the fasteners all the way, it fixes the plastic, but does not clamp it tightly. |
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The photo shows correct order fastening. Compliance with the technology excludes deformation of the element. |
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The second panel is docked with the first. The lock is snapped onto the connection, then the fastening process is repeated. |
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The second and subsequent rows are placed with an offset of the vertical seams by 30 cm or more. |
The process is shown clearly in the video.
The exterior of the house is considered business card its owners, therefore, the selection and installation of finishing materials is a very important stage of construction. In addition to the decorative function, the cladding becomes an additional protection for the material of the walls and foundations. For decoration, you can use facade panels or the so-called siding. Do-it-yourself installation of basement siding is a completely doable task. You can cope with it if you carefully study the instructions.
Material features
Basement siding is a panel designed to be attached to the facade of a house. They can be vinyl or plastic. There are many varieties of siding, each with a different look and feel. Most often, the panels imitate stone, brickwork and chips. The most popular is stone siding. The walls can be finished with panels similar to natural, wild or rubble stone.
Plinth panel for a stone.
In the siding production process, modern materials and technology. This allows panels to be produced with superior performance. As a result, you will get not only an excellent appearance of your home, but also effective protection against mechanical damage and aggressive external environment... In addition, with the help of siding, building cladding is very quick and easy. You can get the same visual effect as when working with a complex material (stone belongs to them), but without significant time and financial costs.
Basement siding requires virtually no maintenance, and its service life is at least 50 years. Despite the name, it can also be used for cladding foundations, attic roofs, decorative elements on the site and staircases... The material is quite suitable for interior decoration... It can be used for walls on a balcony, in a hallway or in a kitchen.
Installation of panels
The technology for mounting the basement practically does not differ from the decoration of the house with ordinary panels. Follow all the recommendations carefully, and you will be satisfied with the results of your work.
Installation instructions for basement siding involves several stages. First you need to calculate required amount materials, prepare tools and work surface walls. After that, you can proceed with the installation of the base.
Purchase of material
Take measurements of each wall you plan to fasten to. When purchasing materials, do not forget about installation costs, which are approximately 10%. Keep in mind that the smaller the wall area, the more waste will be. The same applies to long panels - with them the consumption is much higher than with short ones.
When buying a material, you should take into account the installation costs.
The choice of panel design depends only on your preferences. Due to the fact that the cladding sets the general appearance of the house, think in advance about what result you want to achieve. So if you like classic style, choose panels for a stone - they will perfectly fit into any design and will look stylish.
With stone panels you can create a wide variety of effects:
- Create amazing patterns with mimic masonry siding;
- give the building a vintage charm with white butt;
- use panels under the stately natural stone for a luxurious design;
- Turn your home into a work of art with palace stone siding.
Counting the typesetting elements, that is, various corner panels, profiles and battens, is not difficult. Installation costs for their installation are minimal, but they must also be taken into account.
Preparing the walls and foundations of the house
The walls on which the installation of basement siding is carried out must be strong and smooth. Facing an unprepared surface can lead to a number of problems. Even a small ledge on the wall of the house will turn into a noticeable bump on the siding. In the event that you are not sure of the absolute evenness of the surface, you need to make a crate.
Metal sheathing for whole house siding.
The lathing for the basement siding should be made of a metal profile. Other options are also valid, for example, wooden blocks... But it is the metal that is considered the best choice... His specifications fully correspond to the task at hand. The metal profile will help to strengthen the wall and create an even base for the cladding.
If you do decide to work with wood, make sure that it has an acceptable moisture content (that is, it is no more than 20%). Also pre-treat it with antiseptics and refractory compounds. Also, consider every detail carefully. The bars used must be level. Skewed parts are not suitable for this purpose.
The battens can be mounted vertically or horizontally. The installation type depends on your task. If in your case siding is only decorative element in the exterior of the house, it is better to use a horizontal crate. If the installation of basement panels is planned on the entire surface of the house, then it will be easier for you to work with vertical crate.
There is also an option double crate... In this case, horizontal installation of the material is performed on one part of the wall, and vertical installation on the other. This method is quite difficult to implement, since it is necessary to think over the location of all the details in advance.
The basic rule in the installation of lathing is to take into account the distance between the slats. In the case of horizontal sheathing, it should be half the height of the siding panels. For vertical installation, each plank is placed at a distance equal to half the length of the panel. The outer corner rails must be installed as tightly as possible to each other, and the inner ones, taking into account the dimensions of the fastening bar.
Panel mounting
How to fix basement siding? The technology is quite simple. The starting bar is set first. Take advantage of building level and make sure it is horizontal. The plank is mounted around the entire perimeter of the house.
Fastening the starter bar.
The bar is attached with dowels or self-tapping screws. They should be about 10 cm long. Screw them in the middle mounting hole... Try not to tighten them all the way - always leave a small gap (about 1 millimeter). It will compensate for the changes occurring to the metal with temperature fluctuations. In this way, you can avoid material destruction due to strong stress.
Very often the line of the plinth is uneven and the panels have to be cut. This must be done so that the next row of panels can be mounted strictly horizontally. If the base / plinth is not the same height, then the starter rail is not installed, and the panels are attached directly to the crate. To make the trimmed edge of the siding less visible, place it in a special profile designed to mask the details.
Corner elements must be installed immediately after the starting rail is fixed. This sequence should be strictly followed.
Usually the installation of the plinth is started from the left corner. The first panel must be reduced. If its pattern is symmetrical, then the bleed should be made along the vertical joints. This will save the drawing and simplify further work... If there is no symmetry, you can cut the panel as you like. A saw with large teeth is not suitable for this. It can tear the edge of the panel and ruin it. For these purposes, a fine-toothed hacksaw is better suited.
Install the prepared panel on the rail, and then push it into the left groove. Do not forget to constantly check the horizontal level of the structure using special construction devices. The panel can only be fixed to the lathing when it is perfectly level.
Before installing the last row of panels, a finishing strip is attached. The final panel needs to be trimmed in the same way as the first one. This is necessary in order for the panel and the strip to connect easily. To get into the groove, you have to bend it a little.
The cladding is completed by the design of the door and window openings... They need to be framed corner profiles... To protect the lower part of the house from moisture ingress, special ebbs are installed (the basement cornice plays the same role).
The described cladding technology will make the facade of the house beautiful and warm. Installation work will not take much time, and the result of the work will delight you for many years.
Basic installation instructions
Always move from left to right when installing panels. Complete the installation of one wall completely before moving on to the second. Always start at the bottom of the wall.
Like any outdoor vinyl building material, panels expand and contract with changes in temperature. Therefore, during installation, it is necessary to properly position the panels to compensate for thermal deformations. Be careful and press the panels against the pins of the panels in the lower row, as this will reduce expansion joints which can lead to warping of the panels. In addition, when attaching the panels, position the nails in the middle of the nail holes and leave space between the nail head and the panel to provide additional room for thermal expansion of the panel.
Use aluminum or galvanized nails to fasten the panels to avoid rusty stains on the panels. Nails should enter the fastening base strictly perpendicularly and in no case at an angle.
Storage of panels in heated rooms increases their flexibility, which facilitates installation when low temperatures(below 5 ° C). The panels should be stored in a ribbed position as indicated by the arrows on the packaging indicating the up and down positions.
The panel will begin to shrink at temperatures below 7 ° C. If installing during cold seasons, make sure you leave an extra 3mm gap for the panels to expand.
The panels are intended to be used in a horizontal position only and are not intended or warranted for installation on roofs or as floor coverings. However, it is permissible to use panels on attic roofs with a slope of 9/12 or more.
When installing, it is important that the surface to which the panels are attached is smooth, even and nailed (for example, you can use moisture-resistant plywood with a thickness of 11 mm), if the wall surface does not imply direct nailing into it, then pre-fix a wooden or metal on the wall crate.
The insulation used with the panels should not be foil or film, the manufacturer advises to use "breathable" insulation materials.
If there is a need to drive nails through the face of the panels, pre-drill a hole in an inconspicuous place, for example, at the junction between the tiles. This hole should be larger than the shank of the nail or screw to ensure thermal deformations, but smaller than the head diameter. The head of the nail can be painted over with a matching color.
Do not mount all corners at the same time to avoid the possibility of fitting and proper alignment of the panels. Do not mount more than two corners at the same time.
Attach the batten to the wall surface. The lathing can be made of wood or metal.
In warm climates, where the ground does not freeze, you can fix the crate in the ground.
In cold climates where the ground freezes, attach the batten to the house by hanging it at least 15 cm above the ground. The lathing made in this way should be supported on the ground with the help of pegs. The resulting space can be filled with soil during landscaping to give the house an aesthetically finished appearance.
The vertical elements of the battens should be spaced with a pitch of no more than 91 cm, while the horizontal beams should be connected flush for the installation of the panels.
To determine the position horizontal lathing measure 46 cm from the bottom of the house wall. In this case, the upper row should fall under the upper file of the panel, just in that part of it where the nail holes are located. The top edge can be finished with an inverted U-channel (J-profile) or a finishing strip. If the openings are more than 91 cm, then additional strapping is required for every 46 cm.
Set the starter profile along the pre-drawn chalk line. The profile should be located at a distance of 10 cm from the corner of the building, and the allowance for the width of the corner panel should also be taken into account. The starting profile is fastened with nails every 30 cm. The starting profile is installed evenly and strictly horizontally.
If necessary, trim the panels of the bottom row to the required height circular saw using a thin-toothed panel set in the opposite direction. When cutting into the face of the panel, reverse the saw to minimize chipping.
If pruning is necessary lower parts panels, the start profile is not used. In this case, the panels are fixed with nails through the front surface (hammering at least 5 nails into 1 panel) in inconspicuous places, for example, along the seam line. Driving nails through the face requires pre-drilling the fastener holes.
Cutting the panels
Determine the number of panels required for wall cladding. To do this, divide the total length of the wall in centimeters (minus the width of the corner pieces used) by 102 cm. The end panel should not be shorter than 30 cm. You may need to adjust the size of the first sticks to accommodate the end panel. The panel can be cut in steps of 20 cm anywhere on the panel, while avoiding overlapping seams, so that the mounted structure looks as natural as possible. Do not cut off more than one end piece at the same time, as may need to be adjusted in the following rows.
Moving from left to right, position the first corner of the brick or stone panel with an outlet about 3 mm below the bottom edge of the starting profile. Slide the first panel to the left, flush against the corner. Carefully position the first panel on the support strip with the correct entry of the mounting pins, without reducing the expansion joints. Slide the panel to the left until it stops 2 mm before the corner.
When installing panels brickwork align the horizontal grout line with the corner.
Note. Panels "under a stone" have an arbitrary pattern, their mortar joints should not coincide with the angle.
Drive nails straight through the backing, with the nail heads just touching the panel lightly. Bring the next panel into the start profile and slide it to the first panel. Set the next rows by repeating steps 2, 3. For a natural looking brick or masonry, offset each successive row by 20 cm.
Never push the panels up and down on top of each other. Pull the panel down smoothly so that the panels are attached naturally.
Mounting can be facilitated by slightly lifting the right side of the panel. Check the attachment of all locking pins.
When installing panels "like stone", "like brick" on corners or J-profiles, it may be necessary to adjust the mounting pins, stands and channels on the back of the panels at a distance of up to 8 cm from the corner, or use a J-profile for better fit. J-profiles are made to match the color of the solution and are available with 19 mm and 28 mm grooves. The 19 mm size is best suited for brick-like panels, and 28 mm for stone-like panels.
The panels have posts in the form of mounting pins on back side panels. When installing the next rows of panels, do not press the panels by the posts. These stops prevent the panels from warping at temperature extremes.
When driving in nails, remember that they should only lightly touch the panel, allowing it to move when the temperature fluctuates.
Thermal clearances
Remember, panels can expand and contract by 6 mm. The average spacing of joints between tiles in the panel is approximately 13 mm. At a temperature of about -1 ° C, position the panels so that the tile joint between the panels is approximately 16 mm wide to allow expansion in warm weather. At about 16 ° C, the gap should be reduced to 13 mm to ensure expansion and contraction during temperature fluctuations. At a temperature of about 32 ° C, a gap of about 10 mm should be made to ensure compression in cold weather.
When adjusting the cut parts of the panels between windows or around openings, an undercut is required for an allowance of 3 mm when installing around panels at low temperatures. The same gap may be required when adjusting panels in vault soles, roof corners, around abutments, and other locations where sufficient panel movement is not possible.
Alternate the initial sections of each next row of panels with a step of 20 cm.In this case, the closing piece in the row should not be shorter than 30 cm.
You can use a J-profile to trim interior corners, or you can mark and cut panels to fit in a corner. It is recommended to level the corner before installing the panels with vinyl or aluminum tape.
When finishing the wall, it may be necessary to hammer nails through the face. When driving nails through the face, drill a hole in an inconspicuous place, such as a mortar joint. This hole should be larger in diameter than the shank of the nail or screw to ensure thermal deformations, but smaller than the diameter of the head.
Installation of finishing boards
The "brick" and "stone" finishing board is installed over the last top row of panels.
The trim board can be heated and bent for installation in corners. Before heating, it is recommended to first make a triangular cutout in the finishing bead at the fold.
Notes (edit)
On a vertical overlap of two corners, adjustment (during installation) is required to keep the corner or panel horizontal. Vertical adjustment possible up to 13 mm.
Fitting panels between windows and around openings requires an allowance of approx. 3 mm for expansion of the product.
Attaching items to panels
Never attach the reinforcement directly to the sheathing. When attaching rebar, first drill a hole larger than the diameter of the fastener to allow expansion and contraction.
The reinforcement fasteners must penetrate into the solid substrate under the panels.
Do it yourself and step by step instructions, after reading the step by step instructions, you can easily repeat this with your home.
When you want to quickly and without special costs renovate the facade of your house, pay attention to this finishing material like a basement siding.
The genius of this building material the fact that for an affordable price and in the shortest possible time you get a high-quality imitation of expensive decorative elements.
And the process of installing siding panels is so simple that even a teenager can do it.
When choosing a siding, consider
For cladding a plinth, pay attention to:
- The tightness of the joints at the joints;
- The thickness of the panels must be more than 16 mm;
- The warranty period is at least 20 years.
Verified manufacturers
The most popular are panels imitating cladding stone or.
Their well-known manufacturers:
Work technology
Preparing the walls
For fastening the siding, it is not necessary to prepare the surface to be decorated itself, the main thing is that there are no obstacles to fastening.
Fastening the lathing
As a rule, the finishing material is fixed to the lathing. It can be carried out horizontally or vertically, made of metal or wooden planks.
With a vertical crate, the step should be 91 cm, with a horizontal one, 46 cm.
When installing the lathing, it is imperative to use a level, and do not forget about the presence of electrical wiring, ventilation holes.
In the process of attaching the siding, it is possible to lay insulating material in the grooves and increase the thermal insulation of the house, therefore, for these purposes, it is necessary to provide a sufficient distance from the frame to the wall.
The lathing begins to be erected from the ground at a distance of approximately 5-10 cm from the ground. And if there is a high-quality blind area around the building, the gap may not be made. The frame should be in the form of squares measuring 50x50 cm.
With the help of laying siding, you can give unusual shape corners of the building.
Panel mounting
The starting bar is set strictly according to the level.
The siding installation process itself consists in the sequential compilation of panels into special profile grooves and fixing them with self-tapping screws. To save material, it is possible to use cut pieces of the panel.
The first panel is inserted into the starter bar and pushed into the groove in the corner piece. The level of the beginning of the structure is checked and in several places they are fixed to the crate. The actions are repeated until the entire canvas is collected. Before the start of the last row, a finishing bar is set.
Important! Do not drive the screws tightly. It is better if its head rises 1 mm above the panel.
When joining siding panels, you must carefully monitor that there are no gaps between them.
Control over the excessive tension of the siding elements at the moment of fastening will help to prejudge the swelling and reshaping of the panels in the future.
The installation process starts from the bottom. In the case of fixing the trim under the window sill or cornice, first, several finishing strips are installed, and then proceed to the panels.
Various openings for pipes or ventilation in siding are made with a 6mm allowance.
The final stage
Internal and external corners, various modules and small details will help to give the complete look of the whole structure.
Externally, with the help of siding, the house can be changed beyond recognition. Equip with various design gadgets. For example, stucco or carved overlays. Siding provides a wide scope for design activities.
And what is important for performers, there is no need to bother with surface preparation. No need to take off old paint, tear off the annoying casing or cover with some special compounds.
Just choose the style you want and get to work. The simplicity of the technology allows the real "teapot" to do the job in installation works... All that is required from you is a small representation of the process and the execution of monotonous, but neat actions.
Siding plinth maintenance
Siding is much easier to maintain than natural material... It is advised to wash the coating regularly, to clean the adhesion of dirt with a brush in the direction from top to bottom. It is allowed to add to the water detergents... You can remove mold stains with simple bleach or a special vinyl cleaner.
