How to seal the seams between the plates on the ceiling: quick elimination of the defect. All about joining linoleum: planks, thresholds, gluing seams How to close the joint between

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To date, laminate is the most relevant and sought-after floor covering, which is used in almost all rooms and premises.

However, using it in rooms such as a hallway or kitchen is not entirely practical and appropriate. For such rooms, the best option would be ceramic tile. However, the laminate in the kitchen can be used in the dining area, and the rest of the room is tiled. And here the question arises: how to close the joint between the tile and the laminate (see video below)?

In order for the joint to look neat and beautiful, it needs to be hidden with high quality. Keep in mind that the tiles and differ in thickness. Therefore, they must be laid out at the same level in order to get a smooth transition. Do not forget to leave a distance of 0.5 cm between the laminate and the tile so that the wood can expand or contract from different temperatures and humidity, without being damaged or swelling.

Setting the thresholds

The most convenient and most popular way to seal the joint between tiles and laminate is to install thresholds. Using the same technology, you can close any joints of floor materials, for example: between tiles and tiles. Today you are offered a huge selection of sills. They are different in material: plastic nut, wooden nut, metal nut or aluminum, etc. There are different types and flowers. Let's take a closer look at the most popular ones.

Wooden sills

Wooden sills are the most popular, as well as environmentally friendly and the most beautiful. They are perfect for laminate flooring. This can be seen even in the photo. However, with all this, they are inferior in flexibility to plastic sills. And therefore they are not used for wavy joints. I would also like to note that wooden sills are whimsical in operation and require special care.

Plastic nut

For a wavy joint, a plastic threshold is perfect. They are relatively new on the market, but quickly became popular and in demand. The sills bend well, taking desired shape and protecting the joint from dust and dirt.

metal threshold

If you want to use a more durable material for the nut, then choose metal. Metal sills are perfect for any interior, as you can choose the desired color of the material from the variety on the market. You can choose a metal threshold in the color of the laminate or tile, as well as consider the color of any interior elements and thereby emphasize the design. If there is a situation that the laminate and tiles lie on different levels, then in this case you can use a multi-level metal threshold, which will help smooth out the difference.

Aluminum and rubber sills

Aluminum sills are used mainly for smooth joints. And for wavy joints, rubber sills are better suited. won't be too difficult. This work can be done by hand and in just a few minutes. Just remember to leave 0.5 cm between the materials. To fix the threshold, it is necessary to pre-make holes in the screed for screws. As a rule, they are sold complete with a nut. It is enough to fasten the nut with screws so that it is motionless.

Nut fastening

It happens that there are no screws in the kit. In this case, the threshold between the tile and the laminate can be fixed in a different way. Need to fill the gap silicone sealant so that dust and moisture do not get into the gap. As fastening of the sills, you can use mounting rails, which are screwed to the screed with self-tapping screws. It is on the mounting rails that the threshold for laminate and tiles is then attached. Alternatively, you can use liquid nails.

Flexible sill or molding

For closing undulating joints various materials you can use and flexible threshold. It is installed on a plastic profile with bulges, with which it is attached above the floor covering. Additional fixation with screws is required. To make the molding more flexible, before installing it, it is worth lowering the threshold into warm water about 20-30 minutes.

Why use sills and moldings

A sill or molding is needed to close the joint between the tile and the laminate, and give it an attractive look. appearance. Also, the sills prevent the ingress of dust and moisture, which will save your laminate from the inside. The sills also hide the contraction and expansion of the laminate. It also allows you to zone the space.

A common problem when performing repairs isjoint between tiles and laminate, which is formed when two coatings are combined in different rooms or zones. Due to the difference in the thickness of the materials, there is a small but unpleasant step that needs to be somehow removed or arranged.

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Why is it beneficial to combine materials

The need for such a connection can hardly be called indisputable, but in some cases this is really the only way to combine two materials. . For example, if you use furniture or appliances with legs that spoil the laminate, use a warm floor that is more effective under the tiles. In addition, the combination is convenient in the hallway for education before front door an area with a more water-resistant and easy-to-clean coating, in a kitchen where there is a risk of spilling water or boiling water.

Joining laminate and tilesgives you the following options:

• Zoning of the area with the formation of service and common space.
• The ability to use materials of different colors or textures, create your own design solution.
• Reduced labor costs and cost of expensive tiles.
• Formation of a coating more convenient for cleaning in places of possible ingress of water or grease.

We should not forget about the decorative value of such a connection. The ability to highlight and decorate certain areas of the floor allows you to create a stylish and fashion element interior.

Cons of combined coverage

Transition between tiles and laminatedoesn't always work out well enough. The disadvantages of the technique include:

• "Rupture" of the coating, unnatural design of the floor.
• With a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room, you have to cut tiles and laminate. Violation of the geometry of the material deprives the joint of external accuracy, the result looks sloppy or unsuccessful.
• The possibility of the appearance of a "step" that requires some kind of design or disguise.

Laminate prices

What are the types

Joining tiles and laminatecan be done in different ways:

• Straight joint. The boundary between two materials is a straight line.
• Wave joint. The border looks like a curved line.

You can simply join the materials tightly or use one of the types of special thresholds, issued for such purposes.

Important:When choosing the type of joint, you should carefully consider the procedure, weigh your strengths and skills, and I also have a good idea of ​​\u200b\u200bwhat the result will look like. If changing the laminate floor is quite simple, then the tile will be glued to the floor, its removal and replacement will require some effort.

The straight connecting line looks neat and allows you to use whole tiles or laminate boards without ruining their look.

This option is good in small areas or when connecting coatings. different rooms (usually this is done along the line of the doorway).

In addition, with careful work and compliance with the thickness of materials, it is possiblejunction of tiles and laminate without a threshold, which simplifies the work by making the connection less visible.

In some cases, zigzag joining is used - the joining line runs along the end cut of the laminate boards laid with an offset. Gets a connection with large quantity straight lines perpendicular to each other.

Wavy joint

Curvilinear joining of materials can be used in rooms of sufficient area so that the joint can be seen and evaluate design intent. Sometimes this method is resorted to, if necessary, to separate zones of complex configuration, when it is more difficult to divide in a straight line than in an arc. For example, if necessary, bypass pipes, beams, pieces of furniture or household appliances.

Decorativethreshold between tiles and laminateperforms the function of forming a joint.The boundary between the coatings is filled with a certain composition, covered with a special profile on top, or a profile is used that is installed on top of the first coating, and the second is inserted into the profile groove, as a result of which there are no fasteners on the threshold (closed docking). In addition, there are sills, consisting of two parts: the first (lower) is installed at the joint between the coatings, and the second covers the joint from above, snapping into a special socket of the lower profile. There are also transitional profiles designed for the design of multi-level joints.

Prices for decorative sills

decorative sills

The material for the manufacture of decorative thresholds can serve:

• metal;
• plastic;
• wood;
• rubber;
• laminate;
• cork.

The use of one or another type is due either to the state of the already existing boundary between the materials (for example, the need to somehow smooth out the existing “step”), or the method of forming the joint itself is chosen for a certain type of nut.

Attention! Choosing floor mats, it is necessary to provide for the characteristics of the coating materials, the possibility of accurate and accurate cutting or processing of both materials.

Flexible sills

Flexible sills are intended for the design of curved joints between tiles and laminate.They are made straight, which allows them to be used on both curves and straight sections. Basically, aluminum profiles are used with teeth on the underside adjacent to the base. For bending, you need to deepen them with a hacksaw for metal. Flexible Threshold made of PVC able to bend without additional processing, although some samples require heating to form a small radius arc. If you intend to use for an existing joint, you must be sure that its width will be sufficient to install the profile.

How to make podiums

Podiums are made for zoning the space of a room, highlighting a specific area intended for any purpose. . The device of the podium visually cuts off part of the room, creates a space that is perceived as a separate area. It does not require the construction of partitions or walls.

The podiums have one drawback - the height difference creates a very good place to stumble, which every family member or guest will surely take advantage of sooner or later.

You should also take into account the high risk of installing a podium in the kitchen, where operations are performed with boiling water, hot dishes, cutting or sharp objects.

When creating a podiumthreshold between tiles and laminatenot required, since its role is played by the end part, tiled (most often) or trimmed with cut strips of laminate. The high end can be decorated spotlights, which can visually mark the boundary of the plots.

How to install materials without a threshold

If the coatings are joined in a straight line, you can try to connect them without additional elements. Think long and hard abouthow to join tiles and laminate flooring, there is no need - you need to work hard to arrange the joint so that the gap between the two materials is minimal. Their edges must be of high quality and neatly trimmed.

The gap between the coatings is usually filled with some kind of elastic material - liquid plug, sealant, foam. There are other materials, but their use requires the creation of an ideal gap width. For example, if a thin wooden lath, it is more correct to install it in turn - tiles, rail, laminate (or in reverse order).

Prices for mounting foam

polyurethane foam

gap elimination

Joint-to-joint installation of coatings is carried out if the thickness of the laminate and tiles is the same. The difference in thickness is allowed up to 2 mm. Both materials are carefully adjusted to each other in order to obtain a minimum gap in width.

Ideally, it should not exceed the distance between adjacent tiles. Then, to fill the gap, you can use the same grout mixture (or fugue) as between the tiles, combining both coatings into a single canvas.

In addition, it can be usedgrout for laminate, sealant or liquid stopper.

Which material is more suitable for joining

The selection of the connection type is best done before the flooring is laid, so that any of the commonly used connection means can be used. To connect coatings, it is customary to use:

• straight metal nut;
• flexible threshold made of metal or plastic;
• cork compensator;
• filling the gap with elastic hardening compounds (foam, liquid cork, sealant);
• use of a fugue or grout.

In order to decide whichtile and laminate connectorbest in this case, you should carefully examine the gap and immediately exclude from the list of likely materials those that cannot be used for any reason. Most likely, these reasons will be the unevenness of the gap or the inability to install the main part of the profile into it.

From the rest, you can choose the option with which it will be easiest to work. In this case, the result will be the most successful.

Important!We must not forget about the need to create a deformation gap, otherwise, during thermal expansion or swelling of the laminate, the coatings will swell along the joint line.

Installation of a flexible profile

Flexible Profile consists of two parts: a comb and an upper visible part(actually the nut).

During installation, you must first install a comb in the gap, which is a perforated strip with a lock for attaching the upper part and cutouts to allow bending in the desired direction (hence the name - comb).

Its attachment is made to subfloor using self-tapping screws through the mounting holes.

The upper part is bent in the desired configuration, the lock snaps into the mating part of the comb. In order for the material to bend better, the lock does not break, it is recommended to heat the profile building hair dryer. It is better to work together. The procedure is simple, but requires some skill. To begin with, it would be worth training in an inconspicuous place.

Installation of a flexible metal profile

The metal profile is equipped with special "legs" - supporting platforms, between which there are cutouts for the possibility of bending. These paws must be brought under one of the materials - tiles or laminate. This is the complexity of the installation. The opinions of experts on this issue differ - some advise layingjoint profile for tiles and laminatepaws under the tile, others recommend first laying the tile, then installing the profile with the paws from the tile (under the laminate), and only then laying the laminate, thrusting its ends into the groove of the profile. Both options are good in their own way, but have their weaknesses. Before installing coatings, you should carefully consider which option would be most preferable, decide on the procedure, and only after that proceed with the work.

How is the installation of aluminum sills

There are two types of aluminum sills:

• Open mounting.
• Concealed installation.

Nut installation open type simple - you will need to lay it on the junction line, mark the places for installing dowels on the subfloor (if it is not possible to screw screws into the floor), drill holes and fix the threshold in place with screws.

Concealed installation is more complicated: it is carried out either at the time of laying one of the coatings, mainly laminate, or after laying both materials in the existing gap.

To resolve the issue,how to close the joint between tiles and laminate, special aluminum profile with a cable channel, covered from above with a rubber insert, or a solid profile that is installed close to the edge of the tile with the insertion of the ends of the laminate into the groove of the profile. The installation procedure depends on the type of material. Basically, the profile is attached to the subfloor with self-tapping screws.

There are sills designed to correct the height difference between two materials. They are convenient if the tile or laminate differs significantly in thickness.

How to treat seams with sealant and foam

Processing the seam with sealant or foam allows you to qualitatively fill the gap with a liquid hardening substance. The process is simple - the gap between the coatings is carefully filled with material from mounting gun or your own tank. good option for such a solution to the problem will beliquid cork for laminate and tile joints, but more on that later.

The main danger when applying liquid mixtures is the ingress of the composition onto the surface of the tile or laminate. In order to avoid this, you can paste over the edges of the materials with masking tape, and after the composition has hardened, carefully remove it.

Cork expansion joint between tiles and laminate- collective name for two types of material:

• a solid strip of cork installed in the gap between the coatings;
• liquid composition of cork chips and sealant.

The installation of these materials is significantly different from each other. Installation of a solid strip is carried out after gluing the tiles, directly during the laying of the laminate.

The cork strip is pressed against the edge of the tile sheet, and the laminate is laid close to it.

The most successful result will be with a straight-line join, since fitting curved lines, in this case, will be a rather complicated undertaking. The option is quite simple and provides the necessary expansion gap, but the cork strip will require some maintenance and periodic cleaning.

The liquid composition is poured into the gap between the coatings and the required time is maintained for solidification.The height of the applied layer should not be higher than the tile or laminate, but if this happens, then the line is ground or carefully trimmed with a sharp knife after curing. Ideally, the layer of the composition should be flush with the plane of the coatings and do not require any additional processing.

Docking tiles and laminate requires the use of a special material, the choice of which is best made in advance. To obtain a high-quality seam, you should study the properties of the material, the method of application, the installation procedure, so that corrections and alterations are not required.

Does not require special skills. Laminate board is an inexpensive and reliable coating that fits into almost any interior. The only thing that needs to be done when installing a laminate is to seal the joints. Since the basis of the laminate is fiberboard, when moisture gets under the panel, it swells and deforms. A prerequisite for the installation of laminate boards is the sealing of the joints. It is important how to close the joints of the laminate.

Sealant for processing

Sealant is a special gel with which seams, gaps and joints are processed. At the same time, there is no gluing of the joints, which is a big plus when you need to replace the panel.

It is best to choose a sealant, which includes silicone. This silicone-based product has very good performance properties:

• reliability;
• long service life;
• the possibility of using a hermetic agent at any temperature conditions.

In addition to silicone, the composition of the sealed gel includes the following components:

• additives: quartz flour, chalk;
• antifungal substances;
• dyes;
• and substances that reduce the viscosity of the gel.

If the question is how to close the joints floor covering from a laminate board, is solved, now it is necessary to prepare tools and materials for their processing.

Tools and materials

Before applying the sealant, you must read the instructions for use. If the sealant is used in residential areas, carefully study its composition for the presence of harmful chemical components.

1. Silicone based sealant.
2. Rubber hammer.
3. Ruler, pencil.
4. Electric jigsaw.
5. Retainer.
6. Expanding wedges.

Before laying laminate flooring, it is necessary to carefully prepare the floor on which the laminate panels will be laid. The smoother the base, the less time it will take to process the joints.

Features of laying laminate panels

1. The substrate for installing laminate flooring must be dry, clean and level. Surface differences should not exceed 3–5 mm per meter. Otherwise, the lock joints of the panels will quickly loosen and become unusable, which will require additional time and material costs for the dismantling and installation of the laminate.
2. If the differences in the base are more than 5 mm per meter, it is advisable to make a new screed and only then lay the laminate panels. The even surface of the base will allow you to properly lay out the substrate under the laminate in order to protect the floor from moisture.
3. The first row of panels must be laid out with a deformation gap of 8 mm. Such a gap should be maintained around the entire perimeter of the room using spacer wedges. This is done so that the laminate, when the temperature environment in the apartment (room) changes, “breathes” and moisture does not accumulate under it.
4. When assembling the panels, it is necessary to coat the joints with a hermetic agent. Excess gel must be carefully removed with a sponge or wet cloth. All other panels are mounted in the same way. After the laying of the laminate is completed, all interlocks will be sealed.
5. The gaps left in doorway, can be decorated with elements such as a plinth or a threshold. How to lubricate the joints between the laminate and the plinth? You can use the same sealed silicone-based gel.
6. If the laminate board is joined:

• with linoleum - close the seams with a plastic threshold;
• with tiles - close the seams with an aluminum threshold;
• with a stone surface - it is desirable to close the joints with cork plates.

1. Silicone-based sealant will not bond laminate flooring. The gel prevents excess moisture from penetrating under the floor covering, so, if necessary, you can easily replace several panels.
2. If an expensive high-quality laminate is used for the flooring, then there is no need to use a sealant. The joints of such a laminate are already treated with a water-repellent agent.
3. If a floor heating system is installed in the living room, then adhesive laminate cannot be used. Since this coating is non-separable, and in the event of a breakdown of the floor heating system, you will have to remove the entire laminate. And this means that it will take time to lay a new floor covering and there will be material costs for the purchase of new laminate panels.
4. It is necessary to lay the laminate flooring along doors, windows or verandas, that is, along natural source Sveta. Otherwise, the drop shadow will emphasize the joints of the panels, which will make the room less aesthetically pleasing. If there are several windows in the room, then laying should start from big window diagonally. This method is more expensive, but the most effective.

Video

This video shows how to mount a skirting board with different type mounts:

And this video is about the installation of a flexible profile:

Between the floor slabs on the ceiling, seams inevitably remain.

Do not combine old putty with new. The old putty has already dried up, lumps have formed in it, due to which it will not be possible to achieve a smooth ceiling.

They do not decorate the interior of the room at all. To close them, you need to do the following:

• expand by removing the concrete filler from the joint;
• cover it with a primer;
• fill the seam with mounting foam;
• cut off excess foam after it dries;
• level the surface with a gypsum plaster mixture;
• make the final alignment of the ceiling;
• glue a strip of non-woven thin fabric or gauze onto the joint with PVA glue;
• putty the seams;
• sand after the putty dries with an emery cloth or mesh.

Tools and materials

To perform ceiling repair work may need:

• spatula with an elastic flexible blade;
• dry gypsum putty (preferably Knauf, Uniflot);
• drill or perforator;
• masking tape;
• nozzle-mixer for a drill;
• PVA glue;
• primer with deep penetration properties;
• fine-grained sandpaper or sanding mesh;
• construction pistol;
• acrylic sealant.

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Work order

The repair of irregularities on the ceiling can take place in the following sequence:

1. Expand the seam between the floor slabs using an electric hammer drill with a spade-shaped nozzle. Remove with a spatula or knife pieces of old cement screed and filler.
2. Clean the surface of the ceiling and cracks from dust. Prepare the primer according to the instructions for use. Using a brush, coat the ceiling seams. The primer should penetrate well into the cracks. The primer layer must be dried.
3. Prepare gypsum plaster according to the attached instructions. Mix the mass thoroughly construction mixer. A small amount can be mixed with a spatula. The prepared mortar for grouting should have the consistency of very thick sour cream. They carefully fill all the cracks and irregularities on the ceiling. It is better to close deep cracks in several stages. Each layer dries well. A seam of large width and depth can be filled with mounting foam. Cut off excess foam after it dries with a knife. Termination ends with a leveling layer gypsum plaster, carefully rubbing it into the pores of the foam.
4. After the seams have completely dried, they are coated with PVA glue and sealed with a strip of masking tape. The width of the tape should be 2-3 cm wider than the seams. A thin layer of putty is applied over the tape.
5. After the repaired joints have dried, another layer of primer is applied to the entire surface of the ceiling and finishing putty. It is better to apply it with a wide spatula as thin as possible. Instead of finishing putty or plaster, you can glue the surface with masking fiberglass, prime and paint the ceiling. termination ceiling seams finished.

Sewing seams is not easy. The material hardens for a long time, the putty tends to fall down. It must be held with a spatula for several seconds. The main thing in this work is not to rush. Otherwise, you will have to redo all the work again.

The easiest way to hide irregularities and cracks in the ceiling is with stretch ceiling. Another option is to mount a suspended, multi-level, plasterboard ceiling. It is possible with fiberglass paint mesh and various dry mixes. Over each seam between the floor slabs, a fiberglass masking mesh with a cell of 2x2 mm is laid. She also masks the seams in plasterboard ceiling. On such a ceiling, they are first glued with paper tape, only after that they are reinforced with a mesh.

You can seal the seam between drywall sheets in the following sequence:

1. Joint and part of the surface drywall sheet coated with a putty mixture with a layer about a millimeter thick.
2. A paper tape is laid on the seam, pressed into the solution, smoothed with a spatula and covered with a thin layer of putty.
3. Excess putty mass is removed with a wide spatula.
4. Each seam is sealed in the same way.
5. After the putty has dried, the seams are sanded with an emery cloth or mesh and primed.
6. A fiberglass mesh is fixed on the surface of the entire ceiling. You can temporarily secure it with push pins. A layer of putty is applied over the mesh and then carefully smoothed out. The putty penetrates through the mesh cells and firmly adheres it to the drywall sheets. Excess putty is removed with a spatula.
7. After drying, the ceiling is sanded and primed again.
8. If necessary, a final leveling layer of putty is applied. It should finally hide the traces of screws and seams, mesh and paper. Ceiling seams completed.

As a result, at least two layers of putty are applied to the ceiling surface. With the grid applied, at least one more is added. Between the application of these layers, drying, grinding and priming of the surface is carried out. It is not necessary to reduce the number of these cycles in order to save time. Such preliminary work guarantees the quality and durability of the ceiling. Only after that the ceiling is ready for final finishing. You can paint it in any color, paste over with wallpaper, tiles and so on. The approximate consumption of dry mix for putty is 1 kg per 3-4 square meters plasterboard ceiling area.

Such troubles as the formation of gaps between the floor slabs on the ceiling, or simply the manifestation of once not entirely successfully sealed seams, are very common in panel high-rise buildings. Therefore, at the first sign of such phenomena, action must be taken. And for this you need to have information on how to seal the seams between the panels on the ceiling on your own, without resorting to calling finishing specialists.

If the apartment is located on the last, top floor, and a gap between the plates has appeared on the ceiling, then it is possible that it will soon start to drip, which means that a persistent smell of dampness and mold or fungus spots may appear in the rooms, and besides this , the heat will quickly leave the room. These circumstances are especially unpleasant in the cold months of the year. Therefore, in such a case, repairs should begin with a revision of the roof, since if you do not cope with the flaws roofing, then sealing the cracks from the inside and leveling the ceiling is a waste of time.

If the inspection of the roof suggests that everything is in order with the roof, then you can safely proceed to repair the ceiling. In the case when it is found that the waterproofing roofing material is damaged, you must first to take steps its repair, for example, to replace sheets of roofing material, which usually cover the roof in high-rise buildings with a flat "soft" roof.

However, seams can crack not only on the upper floors, but also on any others. This is a common consequence home shrinkage processes.

So, making sure that no external factors won't spoil t labor-intensive work on sealing the ceiling, you can proceed to repair activities inside the apartment.

Ceiling seam seal

If a small crack has formed between the plates, then you should start by expanding it. It often happens that the process of cutting even small crack or a crack suddenly opens up "big horizons" of work. Therefore, since the hands have already reached this repair measure, it must be done immediately in good faith, in full, so as not to return to this issue for a long time.

If you want to solve two issues at once - sealing the seam and leveling the ceiling, you need to clean the entire seam from old concrete. Usually, this is not difficult to do, since during the construction of houses, not too strong is used to seal the seams. cement mortar.

Materials and tools

In order not to repeat the mistakes of the masters who, during the construction of the house, worked on the seams of the ceilings without due diligence, you need to purchase quality materials and all the necessary tools for the job. It is necessary not only to cover up, but to carefully embroider the seam and carefully seal it when sealing.

So, starting work you need to purchase:

1. From the tools you will need a medium, wide and narrow spatula, a spray gun, a narrow metal brush, a wide brush, a container for mixing the solution, a construction knife and a drill with a perforator.

2. You can close the gaps using different materials, and it is worth listing all that may come in handy.

• Deep penetration concrete primer - necessary for better adhesion surface and material with which the joint between the plates will be sealed.

• NTs, which is designed for sealing deep seams. This material tends to expand during hardening, densely filling the entire space of seams and joints.

Cement "NC" - perfect for sealing joints

• If a wide seam is found that requires sealing, it is necessary to purchase dense insulation materials made of polyurethane or polyethylene foam. Instead, foam can be used.
• Requires latex elastic putty.
• Reinforcement required. Its width will depend on the width of the seam - the tape should extend beyond its borders by 40 ÷ 50 mm on both sides.
• For final finishing you will need primary and finishing putty for the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe ceiling.

Prices for mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

Mixtures for leveling walls and ceilings

How to seal the seams between the panels on the ceiling - we do it ourselves

Repairing the seams between the floor slabs will definitely entail bringing the entire ceiling in order, so you should start by completely cleaning the surface of paint, whitewash and, possibly, plaster.

• Using a spray gun, the ceiling is sprayed with water. Better spraying carry out not the entire ceiling at once, but in parts. A well-moistened area is left for 10 ÷ 15 minutes to soak, and then the old coating is removed using wide and medium spatulas. After that, you can move on to the next section, on which you need to carry out the entire procedure from the beginning. Such work is carried out until the entire plane of the ceiling is completely cleaned.
• Having removed the old coating in this place, the owner will immediately see the amount of work to be done. Usually there are two or three joints of floor slabs per room. Sometimes they are patched up very inaccurately and act as ugly humps. These bulges need to be eliminated and the ceiling made perfectly flat.

To do this, you need to take a puncher, install the desired nozzle on it, switch to shock mode without rotation, and step by step release the joint from the old frozen mortar.

The joint and the slab around it must be completely cleaned, and the gap itself must be deepened by at least 50 mm.

• Next, you need to take a narrow iron brush or a wide brush and carefully clean the gap from dust and small pieces of concrete.

• The next step is to treat the gap with a primer in several layers, each of which must dry. The primer will make the solidified solution remaining inside the joint stronger, will not allow dampness and fungus to form in it, and will provide good contact with the repair compound, which will be applied later.
• If the gap between the joints is wide enough and is more than 30 ÷ 35 mm, then you first need to fill it with mounting foam. It will be well fixed on the primed surface and, expanding, will fill the entire opening.

Hardening, the foam will come out of the seam, and when it is completely dry, it is carefully cut off so that at the joint of the plates in the foam a groove is formed, 30 ÷ 50 mm deep, tapering inwards, like a triangle.

• If during cleaning a joint is deep, but at the same time narrow, then it is worth doing the following.

Having chosen a sealant made of foamed polyethylene of the required thickness, on it one side a strip of sealant is applied and filled into the cleaned and primed joint with a spatula, leaving room for filling with concrete.

• Further, the joint is sealed with a solution of expanding concrete, but it is imperative to leave a small recess in the joint to expand the mortar and decorative plaster.

seam seal concrete mortar"NC"

• After the solution has dried or the groove has been prepared in the dried mounting foam, an elastic latex-based is applied to the joint. Work is best done using two spatulas - wide and medium or narrow. A solution is collected from a container on a wide spatula, and with a narrow one it is applied to the joint between the plates, compacting into a seam and leveling to the level of the ceiling surface, while removing excess putty.

• After 2 hours, which will be required for drying, they begin to reinforce the seams. To do this, a thin layer of putty is applied to the seam and the ceiling next to it in a strip of 50 ÷ 60 mm with a spatula, a sickle mesh is fixed on it, pressing it into the solution and removing its excess with a spatula.

• After the joints have dried, the entire ceiling is treated with a primer, applying it with a roller. It is better to cover the surface with two layers of the composition.
• When the ceiling is dry, you can proceed to it. First, a thin layer of primary plaster is applied, and after it dries, a finishing final smooth layer is applied. It is applied with a wide spatula and at the same time leveled to the ideal.

Finishing- plastering the ceiling

• After the finish layer has dried, paint, whitewash or wallpaper can be applied to the ceiling.

Video: repair of seams between floor slabs

Fixing a hole in the ceiling

Sometimes it also happens that when cleaning the seam from the old solution, not just a narrow gap opens, but big hole- Defect of the floor slab. In this case, this hole can be repaired in two ways.

Sometimes such a “surprise” may appear on the ceiling when cutting seams.

In any case, the first thing to do is to carefully clean the inside of the resulting hole. This process is best done with a narrow brush.

1. Having freed the inside of the hole from dirt, it must be well sprayed with a primer. After waiting for the first layer to dry, it is necessary to apply the second.

• Next, the hole is filled with mounting foam.
• Then, after it dries and expands, the excess is cut off, and a cone is cut from the inside of the hole, at the base the size of a hole, and 40 ÷ 50 mm high.
• This cutout is necessary to fix the cement mortar in it, which is applied in the next step. It is leveled with a spatula and left to dry completely.
• Then putty is applied to the place where the hole was and around it for 50 ÷ 70 mm, and a sickle mesh is glued on it, which is pressed into the applied layer of the solution, smoothed and left to dry.
• Further work proceeds in the same way as when sealing seams.

2. Another termination method differs from the first, and it is used if a large void is found in the ceiling.

• In this case, you will need a piece of plywood (you can use scraps of laminate) about 100 mm larger than the dimensions of the hole.
• Then, it is necessary to strengthen the wire grate in the hole, which must be fixed to the sealant or cement mortar inside the hole. After the mortar has dried, the wire must be securely fastened inside the opening. The grate will serve as reinforcement for the repair mortar, with which they create a kind stove.

Sealing a volumetric hole in the ceiling - an approximate diagram

• Mixed concrete is laid out on the prepared plywood, it must be uniform and not excessively thick.
• The plywood platform with the solution is lifted and pressed tightly against the hole so that the solution completely fills the remaining cavity. We will have to come up with a reliable support for this kind of formwork, which will hold it until the repair composition dries completely. For this, a thick branch, a bar or a pyramid of a table and chairs is suitable.
• After the mortar dries in the opening, a perfectly flat ceiling surface will be obtained.
• Next, you can begin to work on putting in order the entire surface of the ceiling.

Video: sealing a volumetric hole in a floor slab

It should be noted that the joint between the plates is quite possible to update independently. But the full is enough hard work, so it is better to entrust it to an experienced master finisher. However, if there is a desire and self-confidence, and this is quite doable.