Preparing perennial flowers, trees and shrubs for winter. Covering a rose for the winter What garden flowers are covered for the winter

In autumn, flower beds require special attention. During this period, it is very important to properly prepare the flower beds and plants on them, so that during the winter they feel comfortable, and with the arrival of spring they bloom with bright colors again.

Flower beds with annual flowers

Annual plants removed from the flower garden as they die. Plant residues can be infected with fungal and viral diseases, so they are taken outside the site and burned.

The exception is faded marigolds. They can be placed in compost pit, bury them in vegetable beds, cover strawberries or tulips with them.

To collect seed material, several copies of annuals are left on the site until the seeds are completely ripened. After which they are removed from the flower garden.

Having freed the flower garden from the summer beds, water the soil with Fitosporin or a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. Contribute organic and mineral fertilizers(humus, compost, superphosphate), as well as lime or dolomite flour(if it is necessary to reduce acidity), after which the soil is dug up.

Flowerbeds with biennial plants

Biennial plants in the flower garden in the fall are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers: nitroammophos, superphosphate, diammophos. Rosettes of leaves formed in the first year of growing season are not cut off.

Most biennial flowers tolerate well low temperatures: daisies, forget-me-nots, bluebells, Chinese carnation. To prevent the roots from freezing, the flower garden is mulched with sawdust, humus or oak leaves, in a layer of 8-10 cm. In this case, the rosettes of biennials should remain on the surface.

Rose stock (or mallow) requires more careful shelter. With the onset of cold weather, its root zone is mulched, and the above-ground part is covered with non-woven fiber, burlap or spruce branches.

After the second year of growing season, biennials do not overwinter; they are removed from the flower garden and burned.

Autumn care for perennials

With the onset of autumn, everyone perennials in the flower garden they need to be fertilized with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. By this time, watering is reduced to a minimum or stopped altogether, especially if it rains often. The soil is maintained in a loose state, periodically treated with an aerator.

Starting in October, perennials are pruned. Afterwards, they mulch the soil under them and prepare a reliable shelter from the winter cold for the more picky ones.

Bulbous and tuberous

Early flowering bulbous plants: scilla, crocus, pushkinia, immortelle, tulips, daffodils - pruned after flowering. With the onset of stable cold weather, the plantings are mulched with a layer of dry leaves, sawdust or wood shavings.

Some types of lilies: tiger, matragon, Asiatic - tolerate winter well in the flower garden. Cut them to a stump of 10 cm, do this after the green part has withered. With the onset of cold weather, the stump is pulled out of the ground, and the plantings are mulched with humus, peat or leaves.

Bulbs that do not winter: oriental and OT lilies, gladioli - are dug up with the onset of the first frost. The bulbs are cleaned of soil residues, dried, and stored in cool place.

Among the tuberous plants, dahlias, tuberous begonia, callas, and cannas require obligatory digging for the winter. After the first frost, when the foliage withers, the stem is cut at ground level and the tubers are carefully dug up. Before storage, dahlia tubers are washed, disinfected and dried. Store them in a dry, dark room, sprinkled with sand or sawdust. Begonia and canna tubers are stored with a lump of earth.

Rhizomatous

The most resistant to low temperatures are rhizomatous perennials in the flower garden. The last watering of the plants is carried out in September. Fill the plants gradually so that the water has time to be absorbed and does not stagnate in the flowerbed.

Deadlines autumn pruning in a flower garden depend on the requirements of a particular plant. Peonies, rudbeckia, paniculata phlox, irises are cut off before the onset of cold weather, leaving 10-15 cm stumps. The bushes are covered with a mixture of humus and garden soil on top, forming a mound. With the onset of stable cold weather, the bushes are additionally covered with oak or walnut foliage or spruce branches.

There is no need to rush into pruning herbaceous perennials: perennial asters, chrysanthemums, diceras, hostas, astilbes. Their shoots are cut off at the root when stable cold weather sets in. The soil around the bushes is mulched with peat, sawdust, shavings, and humus. These plants often suffer from soaking of the roots during thaws, so it would be a good idea to install a shelter made of slate or boards on top of the shelter.

Perennials such as heuchera, alpine lavender, and primrose need dry shelter. Their above-ground part does not die off in the winter, so it is important to create favorable conditions for it. For these plants, only the flower stalks are cut off and the lavender shoots are shortened slightly (by 5-7 cm). The root collar and the soil around the bush are covered with a thick - at least 10 cm - layer of peat or humus. With the onset of stable cold weather, a frame is installed over the bushes and non-woven material, burlap is stretched, or a “hut” is made from spruce branches.

Throughout the winter, it is worth throwing snow into the flower garden, which serves as a natural insulation for the plants. It is necessary to ensure that the snow cover is always in a loose state, since plants can suffocate under the infusion.

Preparing perennial shrubs for winter

Before winter, ornamental shrubs are watered abundantly. Afterwards the soil is deeply loosened and applied phosphorus-potassium fertilizers: superphosphate, azofoska, nitrophoska.

Pruning of summer-flowering shrubs in the fall: lilac, weigela, mock orange, large-leaved hydrangea, roses is carried out only for sanitary purposes, removing damaged branches. Some types of shrubs: paniculata hydrangea, buddleia, spirea, fieldfare - require both sanitary and formative pruning in the fall.

There is no need to rush to cover the bushes. It is carried out when the average daily temperature drops to minus 5 degrees Celsius. Otherwise, the shoots may wither, which is more detrimental to plants than slight low temperatures.

Heat-loving bushes: roses, hibiscus, rhododendrons, clematis - are mounded high with garden soil with humus. A frame is installed above the above-ground part, which is filled with sawdust or dry leaves. A covering material is pulled over the frame: lutrasil, spunbond, burlap, and on top - an additional layer of plastic film so that the insulation does not become damp.

Frost-resistant decorative bushes: lilac, mock orange, spirea, barberry - mulching is enough for insulation trunk circle peat or humus.

Bottom line

When preparing a flower garden for winter, it is important to remember that flowering next year depends on the correctness of your actions. Plants need to be watered on time and a sufficient amount of fertilizer applied so that they have time to gain strength before winter, and loose soil will provide air access to the roots. Take into account the characteristics and needs of the crop when pruning and covering for the winter, so as not to harm the flowers, and prepare the covering material in advance.

So that perennials will decorate the garden again next season abundant flowering, from late autumn to early spring, favorable conditions must be created for them. We will talk about the wintering features of popular perennials.

Some perennial flowers are so unassuming that they can overwinter in open ground without covering or mulching. However, not all plants are so hardened and therefore require additional care.

Aquilegia, or catchment

Winter-hardy aquilegia does not need to be tightly insulated. In October, the wilted shoots of the plant are cut off, leaving stumps 5-7 cm high, and mulched with dry leaves.

Young astilbe also tolerates frosts well, so it is able to winter without shelter. In October-November, blackened shoots are cut off at the root and the base of the bush is mulched with peat or humus (about 5 cm layer). Mature plant(over 5 years) is more picky, so dry leaves are additionally thrown onto the mulch layer, and on top of them - non-woven material (spunbond) and plastic film, which will protect the perennial from precipitation.

Astra perennial

Perennial asters bloom until late autumn; with the onset of persistent cold weather, they do not wither, but simply begin to dry out. Then their stems are cut at the root and the base of the bush is mulched with dry leaves. It is recommended to additionally cover weakened plants with spruce branches.

Heuchera overwinters with its leaves. Only the flower stalks of this attractive plant are removed for the winter. With the arrival of the first frosts, they hill up the root collar and mulch the soil under the bushes with dry peat, humus and sphagnum. Closer to winter, when consistently frosty weather sets in, spruce branches are thrown onto the heuchera bushes.

Delphinium can withstand temperatures down to –50°C, but only under a thick layer of snow. If snowless winters are possible in your region, it is better to play it safe and prepare a shelter for the plant. After flowering ends, cut off the flower stalks, leaving stumps about 15 cm high, cover the cuts with clay (this is necessary to prevent water from getting inside the stem) and when frost arrives, mulch the roots and cover the plant with spruce branches.

IN middle lane a tender “broken heart” can freeze in winter, so the plant needs to be well taken care of. In the fall, the withered shoots are cut off, leaving stumps no more than 5 cm high, the base of the bush is mulched with peat and covered with a thick layer of spruce branches or spunbond.

Iris, or iris

Siberian irises can overwinter without shelter. In autumn, dried stems are cut off, leaving stumps no higher than 10 cm, and the rhizome is well mulched. Varietal iris are more sensitive to frost, so an additional dry shelter is built for them and during the thaw, care is taken to ensure that moisture does not get on the roots of the plants.

Only English (narrow-leaved) lavender can overwinter in the ground. In autumn, the stems of the plant are shortened 3 cm above the woody shoot, the soil is mulched, and in early November they are covered with a thick layer of spruce branches. But even English lavender does not always survive the winter well, especially in some regions with an unstable climate. With the onset of cold weather, it is better to transplant this heat-loving plant into containers and move it to a heated veranda or winter Garden. It is also worth doing with other types of lavender.

After flowering ends, the flower stalks are immediately removed. When the leaves are completely withered and dry, they are cut off at the root. late autumn with the arrival of consistently cold days, the rhizomes of daylilies are mulched with peat. During severe frosts spruce branches are laid on top of the mulch and snow is thrown on it.

In the fall, after the entire above-ground part has withered, the plant is cut off almost at the root (only a small stump is left); in October-November (with the arrival of cold weather), the base of the bush is mulched with dry leaves, humus or peat. Young plants and varietal roses with double flowers It is best to additionally cover them with spruce branches, since in snowless winters they can freeze.

This rather frost-resistant flower will not cause you much trouble. For a comfortable wintering in the fall, it is enough to cut off the dried shoots, mulch the rhizome with peat, and when frost sets below –20°C, cover it with spruce branches or dry leaves (20 cm layer).

Peony

In the fall (necessarily before the arrival of frost!) the above-ground part of the plant is cut off at a height of 10-15 cm from the surface of the earth and burned to get rid of pathogens and insect pests that have settled down to winter in plant debris. Then the peony rhizome is mulched with humus or rotted compost - this protects the renewal buds from frost. It is recommended to additionally cover the bushes planted this year with dry leaves or spruce branches.

About 2 weeks before the onset of cold weather, the stems of rudbeckia are cut off, leaving a stump 10 cm high, after which the rhizome is mulched with humus (a layer of about 7 cm), and dry leaves, hay are poured on top, or spruce branches are laid on top.

These garden daisies As a rule, they are not afraid of frost. But varieties with large double flowers can freeze in a snowless winter, so before frost arrives, cut off the entire above-ground part to a rosette of leaves, mulch the soil around the bush with humus or peat, and with the onset of winter, dry leaves are poured on top (a layer of 15-20 cm).

Phlox paniculata

Even before the onset of cold weather, phlox shoots are cut so that a stump 5-10 cm high remains. The rhizome is mounded with humus or compost and mulched with peat. In winters with little snow, when the soil has already frozen, one bucket of loose garden soil is poured onto the phlox bushes, and spruce branches or reeds are laid on top of the resulting mound.

Khosta

As soon as the hosta leaves wither and dry out, it is best to carefully trim them and mulch the roots with dry peat. Before the onset of frost, it would be a good idea to lay spruce branches or dry leaves on top of the mulch.

Chrysanthemum

To spend less time and effort preparing chrysanthemums for winter, plant flowers of zoned varieties. For example, varieties and hybrids of Korean chrysanthemum are best suited for the Moscow region. But these plants also need a winter coat.

Before the onset of frost, the above-ground part is cut to stumps 10 cm high, the base of the bushes is mounded with humus (10 cm layer), and mulched with dry peat on top of it. In a snowless winter, dry leaves are poured onto a layer of mulch, and then spruce branches are laid on them. If such a shelter does not save your chrysanthemums from freezing, dig them up, place them together with a lump of earth in a container and for the winter put it in a cellar with a temperature of 1 to 5 ° C.

In late autumn, when the harvest is harvested and you can forget about gardening, the time comes to remember flowers. Preparation for winter is necessary for herbaceous perennials, ornamental shrubs. Proper shelter will preserve the plants until their spring awakening.

Snow cover is often blown away by the wind, especially on open area. The only salvation in this case is the preparation of “snow retainers”. Complete melting at the height of the season will lead to the death of unprotected crops, and a thaw will lead to their damping off. As a result of frosts, after warming, an ice coating forms on the surface, which must be disposed of in a timely manner.

Available materials for preparing flowers:

• spruce spruce branches, brushwood (for a “hut” type device);
• non-woven materials or natural burlap;
• oak leaves (preserve for a long time and do not rot);
• wood shavings (small sawdust will absorb moisture faster and get wet).

Fallen leaves are undesirable - pest larvae overwinter in them and dangerous bacteria develop. The straw will attract rodents, which will multiply and occupy the area by spring. Under the wet organic material In a warm, damp winter, plants will suffer from mold.

Advice. Use straw sheaves or mats; drops of water will roll off without getting inside.

If you decide to choose straw when preparing plants, then you need to remove the “blanket” in the spring earlier than others, since the ground will not be accessible to the sun’s rays. Slate, boards, and wooden containers are good because they trap snow and serve as a frame for insulation. Avoid materials that contain resins and chemicals. connections: CBPB slabs, fiberboard, roofing felt.

Needles and peat acidify the soil. They should not be used to prepare calciphilic flowers: carnations, snapdragon, garden chrysanthemum, fescue. You can carry a number of diseases with pine needles: pay attention to the plaque and color of the needles. Peat is suitable for soil preparation only as mulch; moisture and air will not flow to the plants through a wet peat layer.

Preparing flowers: rules and techniques

In mid-October, gardeners begin preparing shelters. The cold can “arrive” at any moment, and insulation takes more than one day. Preparing flowers for winter too early will cause the stems to rot, since after the first frost the temperature rises.

Preparation begins with the removal of summer and perennial crops that do not overwinter in open ground. At the end of September, dahlias are dug up; gladioli corms must be removed before the end of October. Transfer calla rhizomes to a cool room, do not leave galtonia, acidanthera, montbretia in the garden, tuberous begonia. After harvesting, it’s time to prepare the plants that remain for the winter.

Attention! Pruning will make the process of covering and mulching easier and will get rid of unnecessary dried stems.

Pruning is done after the first frost in dry weather. Until this time the roots will receive nutrients from the top. For rudbeckia, cornflower, astilbe, aquilegia, primrose, up to 5 cm is left. This is suitable for all low plants that do not require special shelter. After the stems wither, asters and peonies are pruned. The cut hollow delphinium is sealed with garden pitch or plasticine to prevent water from penetrating inside. Leave 10 cm from irises. Park, climbing roses in the fall do not need to be disturbed by pruning, but the crops will withstand harsh winter conditions better with a smaller top part.

Attention! For clematis and roses, preparation begins 3-4 weeks before frost. Climbing clematis and those that bloom on shoots current year, cut short. The green parts will freeze and rot over the winter.

Types and methods of shelters for the winter

Small-bulbed plants that bloom in spring overwinter well without preparation: crocus, scilla, daylily, snowdrops. It is enough to cover bulbous plants of Dutch selection with spruce branches. The needles will protect the plants from being eaten by rodents.

Phlox plants are not cut off for the winter, but the bushes are completely covered with garden soil mixed with humus. The protruding stems will make it easier to find flowers in the spring. The hostas, after the upper part dies, are mulched and covered with spruce branches.

Forsythia, clematis vines, bent to the ground, insulating non-woven material. For roses there are the following types of shelters:

Attention! All the leaves of the roses in front winter preparation cut off.

The main material should not break or bend the branches: they are pre-tied without tightly pulling them with twine. Non-woven synthetic materials well suited for preparing plants for winter alpine roller coaster. Cover the flowerbed all together, tightly covering the edges with soil. You can use purchased houses specifically for these purposes.

Some of the perennials that do not require shelter: bergenia, tulips, lupine, columbine, rudbeckia, astrantia, Siberian iris.

Before the winter itself (in the photo and video) the flower garden must be cleared of debris, dry plant residues. Only competent preparation of perennials for winter will allow you to see their friendly flowering next year.

How to cover perennial flowers for the winter: video

When buying a rose bush you like in a nursery or at the market in the spring, a novice gardener often does not even think about the most important period in the life of the “queen of flowers” ​​- wintering. But it depends on this whether the plant will survive during severe cold weather, whether it will successfully continue to grow and delight with vigorous flowering. If you are still a completely inexperienced gardener, then you will be interested in learning how to preserve roses in winter. We will tell you about this now.

A few words about winter hardiness of roses

The winter hardiness of a rose, that is, its ability to tolerate cold and sudden temperature changes, depends on its type. You should only purchase garden roses intended for growing in open ground. Unfortunately, sometimes you have to deal with outright deception when, instead of garden roses offer greenhouse options. They are not winter-hardy and will probably die even with careful shelter. The worst thing is that appearance greenhouse flowers are no different from garden flowers. The only thing correct solution in such a situation, buy seedlings in nurseries or from a trusted supplier.

As for garden roses, among the variety of varieties, more or less winter-hardy ones also stand out. Most large manufacturers note this property in their catalogs and divide varieties according to the degree of their unpretentiousness. The most winter-hardy are considered to be park or landscape roses, which tolerate cold much better than other varieties.

The size of the plants also matters. Low-growing species (ground cover, miniature) are much easier to cover for the winter than tall species (climbing, erect, non-spreading), reaching a height of 1.2 - 1.5 m.

How to prepare roses for winter in summer?

The safety of roses during the winter cold depends not only on high-quality shelter and insulation. It happens that a bush, covered according to all the rules, still dies. This happens because in summer period All measures to prepare roses for winter were not carried out. You should think about wintering roses already when planting them. Place the bushes so that they are easier to cover later.

It is best to plant plants in rows. Between floribunda roses, park roses and hybrid tea roses, a distance of 30-40 cm must be maintained, between ground cover and miniature varieties 20-30 cm of free space will be enough. When planting climbing roses, think in advance about how you will insulate the stems.

Weakened specimens do not survive winter well, so special attention should be paid in summer proper feeding and protection against diseases and insects. Experienced gardeners It is recommended not to wait for the onset of the disease, but to periodically carry out preventive treatment. Healthy leaves, not spoiled by diseases, contribute to maximum accumulation useful substances, which will be useful to the plant in winter. As for fertilizing, at the end of summer you need to stop applying nitrogen fertilizers, which cause plant growth. During this period, you should switch to potassium-phosphorus compounds that accelerate the ripening of shoots. Late flowering of roses can also lead to their depletion. In this case, you need to bend all the buds without breaking them off in order to slow down the growth of shoots and prevent the side buds from awakening.

Preparing roses for shelter

Before the first frost appears, it is necessary to remove, if not all, then most of the leaves from the rose bush. Particular care should be taken to thin them out in the lower part of the plant. WITH climbing roses the leaves also break off in several approaches, moving from the bottom of the bush to the top. This measure will stop the evaporation of moisture from the leaves, since the roots of the plant will slow down their work in the cold soil and will not be able to replenish the lack of liquid. In addition, green leaves may begin to rot under cover, leading to the death of the entire plant. Similar troubles are also caused by unripe shoots - we also mercilessly tear them off.

Before covering roses for the winter, many gardeners prefer to prune the plants. The stems of bush roses are cut to the height of the shelter, while the remaining stems should not be less than 15-25 cm. Such a reserve is necessary so that the grafting sites remain undamaged. It is not necessary to radically prune roses. There is a method in which the stems are simply bent to the ground and fixed in an inclined position using metal pins. Similar solution will allow your roses to bloom 2-4 weeks earlier than their pruned counterparts.

Despite all precautions, winter temperature changes, poor ventilation and excessive humidity can lead to rose disease. That is why before shelter you should carry out antifungal treatment plants with a solution of iron or copper sulfate(at a concentration of 5%). You should spray not only the entire bush, but also the ground underneath it - spores of harmful fungi may also be hiding there.

Ways to cover bush roses in winter

The simplest way to cover roses for the winter is to hill up the lower part of the pruned bush with loose soil or mulch. In this case, a mound 25-50 cm high is formed. For better insulation You can sprinkle dry fallen leaves on top or lay spruce branches on top.

More effective method, which allows for very high-quality insulation of the most valuable bushes, is called air-dry. In this case, the rose is either cut off or the stems are pinned to the ground using metal hooks. After this, caring for roses for the winter requires covering the stems with pine needles or covering them with spruce branches. In the next step, pegs are stuck into the ground, which will serve as the basis for a roof made of a metal sheet or wooden panel. From above, the entire structure is covered with a thick film, the edges of which are fixed with stones or bricks.

When creating such a shelter, one edge of the film is often left raised. However, this approach can easily chill out the entire warm air inside the shelter and freeze the plant. It is better to remove the ventilation in the form of a thin tube running along the ground from the inside of the shelter to the outside.

There is a fairly well-known variation of this method among gardeners, in which a “hut” of boards or bars is built around a hilled bush. After covering the structure with a thick film, it becomes completely impenetrable to wind and precipitation. In the middle, the soil will always be dry, and the shoots will be completely preserved until spring.

Shelter of standard roses

Standard roses are not radically pruned for the winter, but simply undergo a sanitary pruning, taking into account the plant’s belonging to a certain variety. If the trunk is young, then it will not be difficult to bend its stem to the ground and secure it with a pin. Bottom part plants are covered with sand, spruce needles or leaves. Spruce branches or spruce branches are placed under the crown and on top. river sand. From above, the entire structure is covered with film or other waterproofing non-woven material.

This method is good for everyone, but it is not suitable for old trunks with a lignified trunk. Don't even try to bend it, there is a high chance of breaking it. That is why such specimens are prepared for winter in an upright position or laid entirely on the ground. How to properly cover roses for the winter in a vertical position? It is very simple: they place a frame made of metal mesh around the trunk or wrap it with roofing felt, leaving free space in the middle.

This space is filled with dry leaves, sawdust, and spruce needles. Placed on top of the structure plastic bag and tied with twine to secure it. You can also lay the entire trunk on the ground using the Minnesota method. At the same time, they dig up a part of the earth near the base of the rose on the side in which it is supposed to be tilted. Then one person takes the trunk of the trunk at the base and pulls it towards himself in the chosen direction. In this case, the second person is on the opposite side and launches a shovel into the ground, pressing on the part of the plant where two-thirds of the root is located. In this case, one side of the root system is turned out and lifted out of the ground. The main part of the roots remains intact, although some roots still break off. But it's not scary, because root system remains fully viable, and the plant is guaranteed to survive a harsh winter. In the spring, after the roots return to the ground, the damaged surface will quickly be overgrown with new roots.

After the trunk is laid on the ground, it is secured with pins. The raised root, trunk and crown are covered with pine needles, sand or covered with spruce branches. It is also advisable to cover the hilled rose with a thick film.

Sheltering climbing roses for the winter

Sheltering climbing roses for the winter requires special care and caution due to the long lashes of the plant, which should not be damaged. The base of the bush, as in all other shelter options, is covered with earth, spruce needles or sand and covered with spruce branches. The stems are carefully removed from the supports and placed on previously laid spruce branches. The top of the lashes is also insulated with spruce branches and covered with film.

Covering roses for the winter, if they wrap around pergolas, arches or arbors, does not involve laying the lashes on the ground. In this case, rose shoots are insulated directly on the supports, wrapping them in spruce branches or burlap. After this, the covering material is fixed with ropes.

Spring removal of cover

Now you should understand how to preserve roses for the winter. However, no less important than insulation is removing the cover in the spring. Even roses that have survived the winter can die in the spring if the cover is not removed correctly or at the wrong time. When constant positive temperatures are established, the shelter begins to be gradually removed. First, remove the film, then the spruce branches, pine needles or sand and free the bushes. The best time For these works, a windless, non-sunny day or evening is considered. It is necessary to try to avoid drying out of the plant and sunburn. Rose for a long time was kept without light in a humid environment, so it should be acclimated to the changed conditions gradually. All diseased, frostbitten, dry and broken parts are removed from the opened plants. For preventive purposes, roses are sprayed with a solution of Bordeaux mixture at a concentration of 1%.

Following all the rules described above, be sure: all your varieties, even the most valuable ones, will definitely survive the winter and will delight you with early and abundant flowering in the spring.

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