Fast and affordable or leaf propagation of begonia. Recommendations, features and instructions

I love begonia very much, and have long dreamed of breeding it. And then a friend brought me one leaf of this flower, fluffy from the inside out. How not to spoil it and grow a few plants? Please explain step by step how to propagate begonia with a leaf at home.


The breeding method of begonias is chosen depending on which species the begonia belongs to, and what kind of begonia it has. root system... There are several methods of flower propagation: by seeds, cuttings, tubers and rhizomes, and leaf propagation.

If you need to get several young begonias at once, then it would be most suitable to propagate it with a leaf. As planting material choose one large, healthy and undamaged begonia leaf.

You can propagate by leaf only begonias with a downy under the leaf, as well as flowers with a creeping stem.

There are three methods for leaf propagation of begonias.


Method 1. Cut the sheet into several pieces. It is necessary to cut with a sharp knife from the middle to the edge, while taking into account that there is at least one vein in each fragment. Up to 10 triangular fragments can be obtained from one sheet.


Place the leaf fragments in separate containers with prepared substrate or sand. Or you can plant it cut down in a mixture of sand and soil. Create a mini greenhouse for each plant: cover with foil, lid or cut plastic bottle... Spray the leaves periodically to maintain a humid microclimate inside the greenhouses, but do not flood them so that the plants do not rot.

After the first leaves appear (after about 20 days), you need to gradually harden the begonia - remove the film or cap, each time increasing the time.

It takes 3 months to grow new plantings, then they are transplanted to permanent place in a pot. At the same time, the soil around the root collar of a young flower should not be tamped, so as not to break the shoots and not interfere with its development. It is enough just to pour water on it.

Method 2. Take a large begonia leaf with a handle about 7 cm and cut it across the veins. Next, put the sheet with its front side on moistened ground, straighten it and lightly press down with pebbles near the cuts.

Cover the container with foil on top and place in a warm, sunny place. When caring for a seedling, it is better to spray the ground, and not water it. In a month, new plants will appear, and then the film must be removed. Grown up young begonias dive into separate flowerpots.

Method 3. This method is the easiest, but only one new flower can be grown. Cut off a healthy leaf of the plant from the cutting and place in a glass of water. Add 1 tablet of activated carbon to the water. Some growers also add root roots. If over time the leaf begins to rot, you need to cut it a little and change the water.


Decorated the balcony with begonias. It was so fortunate that many girlfriends began to ask me to multiply a cutting for them (they know that my hand is "green" since childhood). What do I feel sorry for?

True, my flowers this year were small and rare, so I did not cut the twigs, but the leaves. But all the same, it turned out by the fall to grow as many as 10 young flowerpots.

If such a flower has a stem, then the method of propagation by cuttings is suitable for it.

The advantage of this method: young begonia will retain all the varietal characteristics of its "mother".

Use only a sharp tool to cut the cuttings. You can use both apical branches and middle cuttings - such as in the photo below:

Most best stalk looks like this: about 10 cm in length, 2 to 3 buds. Leaves on it are not required, although you can leave a couple. However, if the sheets are too large, half can be cut off.

Your next steps:

  1. Dry the cutting, just forgetting it on the table, but not for long - for a maximum of 2 hours.
  2. If desired, the cut can be dipped into a root formation stimulator (everyone praises Kornevin, and Heteroauxin also shows itself well).
  3. Root the cutting in a disposable cup or small pot filled with begonia soil combined with sand (for looseness). But do not deepen it deeply - stick it in one and a half to two centimeters.
  4. Grow the stalk under a clear bag cap in a warm, light place. Ventilate from time to time.
  5. New leaves will tell about the appearance of roots. And since they grow, the bag can be thrown away.

Is it possible to root in water

Yes! The water must be softened (at least settled for a day, if it is from the tap). Do not use ice water, only room temperature or a little lukewarm.

You need to keep such a stalk in the light.

As soon as you see the roots (not the very first, small, but already strengthened ones), plant the begonias in the ground. It can be a purchased substrate (it is written on it - "For begonias") or something of your own.

For example: 2 parts of leafy soil and peat, 1 part of sand, a little manure (or kurpomet - dried granules can even be used in a city apartment). A handful of charcoal will help make the soil healthier.

Several options for foliar propagation

"Breeding" begonias with a leaf is the most economical way, because several bushes can be grown from one leaf plate.

Whichever method you choose, always use healthy, strong leaves.

It is believed that varieties are propagated by this method, the leaves of which are pubescent from the inside out. The method is also suitable for creeping varieties. Do not forget about species that practically do not have a stem (Elatior, Mason) - for them such reproduction is basic.

Method 1: one leaf - ten bushes

In this case, the leaf is cut into several (up to ten) pieces. Use only the sharpest possible tool - a blunt one crushes plant tissue, which will not lead to anything good. Also, it would not hurt to sterilize it (wipe it with a cotton swab dipped in alcohol).

Step-by-step "recipe" for reproduction:

  1. Cut the leaf so that at least 1 vein remains on each piece. Most often, the pieces are formed in the form of triangles.
  2. Prepare a small container for each piece (this can be a disposable cup, a cassette with seedling cells, peat tablets). The leaf is either laid on top of the ground with the pubescent part down (so that it lies tightly on the substrate, it should be pressed on top with a pebble), or it is stuck with a cut. The primer can be clean sand or a mixture of sand and peat.
  3. Form a greenhouse over the "pots". For example, the cassette can be placed in a large transparent plastic tray with a lid, cans or cut bottles can be flipped over disposable cups. Many people use transparent bags.
  4. From time to time, you need to let a little fresh air... In this case, the leaves must be sprayed. This moisture will be enough for them - do not water them, so that water does not stagnate in the "pots".
  5. Three weeks later, the leaf will begin to take root. This will be seen by the growing leaves. It's time to harden the new plant: for 20-30 minutes (further - longer) remove the greenhouse, allowing the plant to gradually adapt to the temperature in the room.
  6. Three months later, young begonias can dive. Take the "adult" soil. Never tamp it in a pot. And so that the soil does not turn out too loose when planting, the flower can be watered.

Method 2: whole leaf

You need 1 large leaf and 1 pot of about the same width.

An important point: the leaf must have a stalk-leg (at least 7 cm long).

  1. Cut a sheet across the veins (cutting each large one) and lay it on top of the ground, sticking it into the ground with a handle. The soil must be well sprayed.
  2. Press it down lightly with perlite or something similar.
  3. You need to form a greenhouse over it (there is nothing easier - they threw in a transparent bag, and you're done).
  4. It should be germinated on a sunny windowsill, in a warm place. Sometimes it is required to ventilate, spray.
  5. Young plants will appear in about 30 days.

When you see the nascent bushes, you can remove the package.

As soon as the "guys" get stronger, you can dive them into disposable cups.

Method 3: leaf-cutting

The most elementary method, but also the least economical: 1 bush will grow from one leaf.

  1. Choose a leaf with a long stem.
  2. Place in a glass or a glass of water (or even better - "Kornevin" or succinic acid). And so that the stalk does not rot, you can also add charcoal (crushed wood or activated) to the glass.
  3. If you do see rot at the tip of the cutting, cut it back and replace the water.
  4. When you see the roots, you can transplant the leaf into a small pot of soil.

Seeing that the first leaves of a new bush are coming out of the soil, do not rush to cut off the old begonia leaf. It will nourish for a while young plant... When he gives up all his useful juices, he dies - then you cut him off (only carefully and with a very sharp knife, so as not to accidentally pull out the young "creature").

Other methods of propagation of such flowers

  • Seeds. Option for all flowering species. True, it is not the most popular, as it takes the most time.
  • Division of the rhizome. When transplanting an old bush (the same ever-flowering begonia), two can be made from it.
  • Tuber division (for tuberous varieties). Reproduction "potato method": the tuber is cut so that on each part there are living buds. The sections are covered with a disinfectant (you can even use brilliant green). After that, they need to be planted in pots. A bush will grow from each piece (usually half).

How to care for a young begonia

  • Do not deepen the growth point (delicate root collar) of the seedling when picking and planting.
  • After any picking and transplanting, shade the plant for a couple of days, and only when you see that it has taken root in a new pot, expose the begonia to the light.
  • Drainage is required. Depending on the size of the plant, its layer should vary between 0.5 and 2 cm.
  • Take the pot wide, but not high, since the roots of the plant are not deep.
  • The basic principles of caring for young flowers: moderate watering, sufficient light (but without direct rays), temperature about 20 degrees, feeding from spring to autumn (depending on the variety, take mineral fertilizer for ornamental flowering, or for decorative foliage). It is not necessary to spray the flowerpot, you can just keep it on a pallet with wet expanded clay.

Well, when the begonias grow and begin to delight you with bright flowers (or no less elegant decorative leaves), you will need to take care of the plant according to the following principle:

Begonia (lat. Begonia) belongs to the begonia family, the genus begonia, is used to decorate garden plots, squares and parks. The plant is annual and perennial.

Homeland of the houseplant begonia

The flower is unique in that it has a variety of forms.: from herbaceous to semi-shrub and shrub. Inflorescence color unpretentious plant differs depending on the species. After flowering, a fruit is formed - a box containing small seeds.

TO common line Plants include the presence of unisexual flowers and asymmetric broad-oval leaves located on succulent fleshy stems. Depending on the variety, the color of the leaf plates can be green, with brown or purple impurities.

Thanks to luxurious bloom and ornamental foliage, begonia has gained popularity among flower growers. Depending on the structure of the underground part, the plant is conventionally divided into 3 groups:

  • sheet;
  • tuberous;
  • bush.

Perennial native to tropical and subtropical regions of Asia, Africa and America.

Species, varieties and hybrid varieties of begonias

There are many varieties of this vibrant plant growing all over the world. Scientists know more than 900 of its species and more than 2,000 hybrids have been bred. In home cultivation, 2 groups are used:

  • leafy;
  • blooming.

The difference between decorative deciduous trees is in the original color and shape of the foliage.

Begonia tiger paws. Low plant(less than 30 cm). White or pale pink flowers bloom most often in winter period... The leaf plates of a bright green color with light specks are small in size and have a brown, serrated border. Since small inflorescences are not of aesthetic value, they can be removed.

Begonia Bauer

Begonia bowerae. A low neat bush, reaching 15 - 20 cm, has decorative pubescence around the perimeter. The rhizome of the plant is creeping. On cold winter days, single flowers are formed. The most popular is the Tiger variety. with a bronze-green spotted color of foliage.

Speckled begonia

Begonia guttata. The bush can grow up to 2 m. Thanks to correct formation, you can get a lush crown. The burgundy large leaves with silvery specks make the bushy plant attractive. Inflorescences of pink tones are large.

Begonia corallina. Luxurious shrub almost 2 m high. Saturated leaves are decorated with light spots on the front side, have an oblong-ovoid shape. The underside of the leaf plate becomes reddish by the beginning of summer. If a plant is carefully looked after, it can be delightful. pink flowers all year round.

When crossing coral begonias and Richards, they got the begonia alfalfa, which has 20 centimeter leaves.

Begonia royal

Begonia rex. A perennial with a powerful creeping rhizome and a short, thick stem covered with red bristles. Due to the large leaves on long petioles, it forms lush bush... In this case, the top of the leaf plates is velvety, and the bottom with prominent veins. The drawing and coloring of the leaves depends on the variety. Flowers, collected in inflorescences, are inconspicuous in appearance, are located on high peduncles.

(Begonia manicata). The name comes from the structure of the leaves, which form a rosette at the top of the petiole, resembling a collar, and on the lower side have weak pubescence along the perimeter and bright red outgrowths along the veins. The stem is creeping and thick.

Bright pink flowers represent a voluminous but loose inflorescence. An adult bush individual forms up to 5 such decorative brushes. Blooms in winter.

Begonia hogweed

Begonia herac-leifolia. The stem of this large individual is recumbent. The rich green foliage has a finger-dissected structure and is up to 20 cm in diameter. The underside is reddish and pubescent. On a long peduncle, pinkish flowers form, forming multi-flowered brushes.

Cuff begonia

Begonia manicata. On the thickened stem, there are petioles, generously pubescent with hairs of red tones. From the fact that at the base of the leaf plate the petiole forms the so-called cuff, this type of begonia received such a name. The top of the non-pubescent leaf plates has a bright green color, and along the edge there are small denticles and hairs. Above large foliage rise at least beautiful flowers forming pinkish spreading clusters.

Begonia argenteo. Silvery leaves with well-visible veins are rather indented along the edges. Bushy plant with drooping branches. The flowers are white or creamy with a pinkish tinge.

Yellow begonia

Begonia xanthina Hook. Large-flowered shrub with densely doubled camellia flowers and recumbent densely pubescent stem. The leaves are oval in shape with a pointed tip. The top is smooth and shiny, and the bottom is slightly pubescent along the veins. Flowers from yellowish to orange tint.

Red-leaved begonia

Begonia erythrophylla. The beautiful undisturbed foliage has an intense green color and an irregularly rounded shape. Due to the deep red back side sheet, this species received such a name. A thick stem spreads along the ground. In summer, a pink palette of colors appears on the bush.

Begonia limmingheana. A semi-shrub with a woody stem at the base and ovoid leaves. The edges of the leaf plates are wavy, and the color is dark green. Flowers from light red to coral red tones.

Striped begonia

Begonia listada. Shoots of this bushy species are very leafy. Elongated leaves have a sharp core at the base. A velvety top with a bluish tint and a light silvery central vein, while the bottom is dark red. On short pedicels, tiny pink flowers bloom.

Begonia metallica. Strongly branching flowering shrub with slightly reddish pubescent branches, it grows over a meter. Large foliage has a metallic sheen and red veins. The back is purple. Inflorescences are pink.

Tuberous multi-flowered begonia

Begonia x tuberhybrida multiflora. Characterized by rich carved leaves and semi-double and double flowers that appear in the summer.

Begonia mix

Begonia mix. A rich blend of herbaceous begonias with fragrant flowers of various colors. Compact bushes grow 35 cm... The foliage is green, heart-shaped, the edges are unevenly serrated.

Black Velvet. Low plant(20 - 25 cm). It is characterized by a creeping stem and heart-shaped leaves with protruding white hairs along the edge, which darken when the flower is located in a bright place.

Begonia Evening glow

Fast-growing bushy species. Medium-sized leaves are metallic in color, with a red center and green veins. Raspberry border around the perimeter.

Begonia Fista

Begonia feastii. Glossy, fleshy leaves are bronze on the outside and red on the back, and are prized more than pink, small flowers in inflorescences.

Begonia breeding methods

There are several methods for dividing a flower, but novice growers should know some rules. In indoor cultivation, division using cuttings or leaves is most often used.

Propagation of begonias by cuttings

Reproduction of begonias using stem and leaf cuttings is one of the simplest and most convenient methods for indoor floriculture. The easiest way to dilute with stem cuttings is bush begonias. The step-by-step recipe for such reproduction is as follows:

  • cuttings selected for rooting must have two or more buds;
  • the lower cut must be made directly under the lowest kidney;
  • on cuttings with a missing top, the upper cut must be performed, retreating about 0.5 cm from the kidney;
  • all present on the cuttings large leaves should be cut in half;
  • in the soil nutrient substrate prepared in advance, you need to make holes and carefully place the cuttings;
  • for the fastest possible rooting, a nutrient substrate based on equal parts of peat and sand is best suited;
  • the temperature regime in the germination room should not be lower than 20-22 ° C.

To create optimal conditions for rooting, all planted cuttings must be covered with polyethylene or plastic. It is necessary to ventilate the cuttings daily, preventing the soil from drying out.

Almost all begonia cuttings planted in this way form a root system in about a month, after which the plants can be transplanted into individual flower pots. You can use a ready-made substrate for begonias or independently prepare a planting mixture from equal proportions of peat, leaf or sod soil, humus and plant compost with the addition of a small amount of coarse-grained river sand. We should not forget about high-quality drainage and the presence of drainage holes in the planting tank.

Cuttings (video)

Seed reproduction

This breeding option is used mainly in breeding work and consists in carrying out the following simple measures:

  • in early February, fill small planting boxes with nutritious and decontaminated soil;
  • well moisten the surface of the nutrient soil with settled water from a spray bottle and sow seeds;
  • to make it easier to sow too small seeds of this ornamental crop, you should mix them with sand;
  • the box with crops must be covered with glass or foil and put in a bright place.

It should be borne in mind that direct sunlight should not fall on crops. After the appearance of the first shoots, it is necessary to remove the shelter and monitor the temperature regime and indicators of soil moisture. Fortified and grown plants can be dived with caution.

Tuberous propagation of begonia

Begonia tubers are divided into several parts. Each such fragment, suitable for reproduction, should be no more than 50-80 mm in length and have a well-developed kidney. All sections of the slices must be sprinkled with crushed activated carbon, and then the planting material should be placed in a previously prepared moist and nutritious soil.

The plantings need to be covered with plastic wrap or transparent glass, and then placed in a bright place until fully rooted. After the appearance of several new leaves on the planting material, the shelter must be removed, and the young plant must be transplanted into an individual flower pot with drainage, filled with special soil for the cultivation of begonias in indoor floriculture conditions.

Reproduction by children

  • carefully cut off the apical part of the rhizome with a clean and sharp knife;
  • to get high-quality rooting, you need to lower the cut part into a root formation stimulator;
  • place the begonia baby prepared for planting in a flower pot filled with a nutritious soil mixture of equal parts peat and clean coarse sand, which can be replaced with perlite;
  • cover the flowerpot with polyethylene and place it in a warm room with diffused lighting.

It takes about a month before young shoots appear on the plant, after which you can remove the shelter and carry out standard begonia care.

Leaf propagation

If there is a need to obtain a significant amount of planting material, then it is advisable to resort to the leaf method of begonia propagation. The cut leaves must be cut into three pieces. Each part must necessarily have a piece of the central vein, which is necessary for the development of a vegetative clone.

The leaf blades prepared in this way must be planted in an upright position in a previously prepared nutrient substrate. The depth should not exceed 10 mm. Planting soil suitable for rooting is prepared on the basis of peat. The substrate should be very thoroughly disinfected, which will reduce the risk of mold damage to developing plants.

Successful rooting of a leaf blade is possible only in conditions of high humidity, which implies the obligatory use of a shelter in the form of translucent plastic or plastic film... You can also root the leaf blade in water, without using a nutritious soil substrate.

Further care

Growing room begonias is not difficult even for novice amateur flower growers. Ornamental culture is quite unpretentious, and to obtain abundant and long-lasting flowering, you need to pay attention to the following care recommendations:

  • the basis for the competent cultivation of begonias is abundant and frequent watering of the plant with soft and settled water throughout summer period;
  • it is advisable to install a flower pot on a layer of expanded clay with water, which will maintain optimal humidity;
  • in winter, the volume and number of irrigation activities should be reduced to a minimum;
  • complex mineral fertilizers it is required to make at the stage of active growth and development of decorative culture in spring-summer period, as well as in the phase of laying flower buds;
  • it is recommended to place flower pots with begonias on the windowsills of the northern and eastern directions;
  • hypothermia of the plant in winter and drying out of the soil in a flower pot in summer should not be allowed.

Home begonia care

Flowers differ not only appearance, but also the requirements for growing conditions. Some varieties are more moody than others. But in order to grow a healthy and beautiful plant, it must be taken care of.

How to plant begonia (video)

Lighting, humidity and temperature

At noon, it is advisable to shelter the bush from hot rays. In summer, it is better to move the flower with a pot away from the window, and in winter, on the contrary, move it closer to the light in order to ensure uniform annual illumination.

In the room where begonias grow, it is necessary to ensure high humidity, while taking into account that the ingress of drops on the pubescent leaves affects them negatively. Due to this peculiarity, the flower pot can be placed on a tray with wet pebbles or moss.

The air temperature should be moderate: 20-26 ° С during the daytime and not fall below 15-16 ° С at night. In winter, the plant does not need rest, so you should not change the temperature regime.

Soil and flower pot

The plant prefers a loose, moisture-permeable and nutritious soil with a slightly acidic reaction. For adult bushes, the following composition is suitable: peat, sand, deciduous soil (1: 1: 3). The bottom of the pot must contain drainage.

Since the root system is shallow, the planting container should be wide, but not too shallow. If the plant is tuberous, then when planting, the distance from the edge of the pot to the tuber should be 3-4 cm.

Watering the plant

The water intended for irrigation must be prepared in advance. To get rid of chlorine, the water must be defended for at least a day, and to soften it, boil it or use a filter.

Experts recommend watering the plant in the morning, preferably at the same time. The frequency of watering is determined depending on the conditions and drying out of the soil. In summer, the amount of water should be higher. To maintain a sufficient level of moisture, the topsoil should be loosened to a depth of 1 cm.

Watering can be done by dipping the flower pot into a container that is larger than the size of the pot. Water coming through drain holes, will saturate the earth.

Top dressing of begonias in a pot

Once every 10 days, the flower needs feeding, while fertilizing it is desirable in the evening hours. Before starting feeding, the ground must be watered. In order to avoid toxicosis and plant death, it is important to ensure that there is no oversupply of fertilizers.

Suitable as a top dressing Bona Forte, Begonia, Good Power purchased from a specialist store.

Timing and rules for pruning

Pruning the plant is necessary both to get rid of old elements and to form a bush. Pruning rules:

  1. In a young individual (6 - 7 cm in height), the top should be cut off.
  2. Reduce watering frequency until the plant grows vigorously.
  3. When shoots reach 10 centimeters in length, you need to cut off their tops.
  4. To preserve the crown, elongated branches should be removed.

Tuberous varieties must be pruned for the winter. But not all species need pruning. After the onset of autumn, begonia leaves begin to dry out. The aboveground part must be cut off, leaving only 1 - 2 cm and put the pot in a dark cool place(not higher than +15 ° С).

How to care for begonia in winter

Each type of flower in the winter needs certain conditions. The most demanding is the tuberous type. Even after pruning, the soil should be periodically moistened so that it does not dry out. Bushy and decorative deciduous do not require special conditions.

Diseases and pests of begonia

Usually the plant gets sick if the growing conditions are not followed..

In order to combat the disease, a soapy liquid is used, and the plant is sprayed with a solution of foundationol, colloidal sulfur. In case of severe damage, it is recommended to destroy the flower.

  • The false shield is soft.
  • Greenhouse aphids.
  • Greenhouse whitefly.
  • Red spider mite;
  • Greenhouse thrips.
  • Nematode.

How to propagate begonia (video)

The most dangerous are ticks and aphids. Insects should be removed by hand, sprayed with chlorophos, solution laundry soap, onion infusion, celandine and tobacco.

Begonia is considered one of the most beautiful flowers cultivated in indoor conditions... Plus, indoor plants need to be safe for children, so it is perfect for landscaping a child's room.

Begonia is a subtropical plant, and like all representatives of this group, it loves a climate with high humidity air. It grows well in bright, but diffused light, and can withstand partial shade (even northern windows in winter).

They prefer a constant air temperature (without sudden changes). Most optimum temperature for them + 16 ... + 20 ° С and moderately moist soil.

In addition, they are very demanding on the composition of the soil.- the earth should be slightly acidified. For this, the following mixture is suitable: leaf earth, humus, peat, sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 0.5.
After mixing all parts, the mixture must be sterilized by steaming to avoid pests. To do this, sprinkle very moist soil in a layer of 3-4 cm on a baking sheet and put it in the oven for 5-10 minutes, stirring it from time to time. Excess moisture will evaporate during this time, and the earth will not have time to burn out. Then the earth is allowed to cool well. After that, you can begin to plant the plants.

Begonias are "selfish" in relation to other types of houseplants adjacent to them, ie. they like to be apart from everyone.

Here is how Natalya Agafonova from Krasnodar Territory:
“When I only had a few pots of begonias, they stood between other indoor flowers. There were problems with their growth. For a long time I did not understand - what is the reason for such "weakness", although the ground, lighting, the air temperature for begonias were optimal? The way out was found by accident: I put the last pot with the begonia dying before my eyes on the flower-free sill of the northern window, expecting the inevitable death of the plant. A few days later, out of place lost leaves I found new kidneys emerging. Begonia grew very quickly, becoming a lush beauty. I decided to plant her and put all the seated processes next to her, on the same windowsill. There were no more problems! Of course, other flowers can and should be placed in the room, but I would not recommend mixing them with begonias. "

Propagation of begonias by stem cuttings

Decorative deciduous begonias are propagated by stem cuttings. To do this, take a site with a growth bud and young leaves. On an adult plant, they are very clearly visible. Such a section is cut off (a daughter outlet is obtained, only without roots). The cuttings are allowed to lie down for 10-15 minutes. After that, the cuttings are planted in small pots (7-8 cm in diameter) and watered with water at room temperature. And then they do the following:

Place the pots in a plastic bag, inflate and tie. In this form, they should stand until large droplets of water appear on the inside of the bag. From this point on, start gradually airing the cuttings to prevent rotting. To do this, the bags are untied and slightly opened so that there is no sharp temperature drop (during the time when condensation forms, the temperature in the bag rises compared to room temperature). After a few days, open the bags even more and at the same time make sure that the leaves on the begonias are elastic. If suddenly the plant stuck, tie the bag again. In this way, begonias multiply very quickly.

But this method is good when there are large bushes of these plants. But what if you have only one copy of some rare species begonias and really want to propagate it? Then we propagate it with a leaf cuttings.

Method of propagation of begonias by leaf cuttings

For this purpose, select a well-grown leaf on the plant, break it off the stem and allow it to dry for 10-15 minutes. Then the leaves are planted in small (100 g capacity) plastic cups, deepening the cutting by about 2 cm so that it stays well in the ground.

There are varieties of begonias in which the leaf cuttings are short and the leaf blade is very large. In this case, for rooting, you will need a wide dish - such that the entire sheet fits completely in it. Leaves with short cuttings are buried in the ground to the very leaf blade. They are carefully watered and, like stem cuttings, are placed in plastic bags.

Rooted leaves produce multiple rosettes. When the rosettes grow up, they are seated in cups and placed in bags again to strengthen them. The soil mixture for rooting leaves is prepared without adding humus.

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Top dressing

Begonias are very fond of organic fertilizers. For feeding, use a freshly prepared solution. chicken droppings poor concentration. To do this, take 5 liters of water and mix well 10-15 g of fresh chicken manure in it. This solution is watered with begonias once every 7-10 days. Begonias grow very well, the color of the leaves becomes bright, a pearlescent shine appears. Top dressing is used no earlier than two months after the plants are transplanted into fresh soil.

Prophylaxis

To prevent the plant from rotting, use a foundation (they lightly "dust" the plant from above). It also helps prevent powdery mildew.

Also, for prophylactic purposes, you can use a solution of agrovertine (1 ml / 1 l of water) or fufanon (at the same concentration).

We save from the heat

It happens that the leaves on the plants begin to disappear from the intense heat. In this case, you must stop depositing organic dressings... Do not rush to throw away bare "hemp", place them in plastic bags. In this form, begonias should stand until the autumn coolness. With the onset of autumn, growth buds, and then leaves, usually appear on the "stumps".

For planting plants, it is better to use wide and not too deep pots, since most decorative deciduous begonias have a creeping stem. A sign healthy plant good hairiness of leaf cuttings (part of the leaf from the stem to the leaf blade) is good. If the villi are not thick and have a faded color, then the begonia is "dissatisfied" with something. Most often, they need feeding.

Spring feeding

In a 3-liter jar of water, put 12 g of dry yeast, 2 tbsp. tablespoons of sugar, stir, cover and let stand for one day. Then add 6 glasses of yeast fertilizer to a 6-liter bucket of water. A small flower requires 1 glass of prepared dressing, a large one - 2-3 glasses. Thanks to this mixture, plants grow by leaps and bounds!

Season at the Dacha magazine

It is not always possible to buy such a plant, and if you buy it, will you keep it, so it is important to know how it reproduces.

Begonia is famous for its ability to quickly regenerate. For example, if you take one leaf and cut it into several pieces, and then put it in a favorable place, then a new plant will develop from each piece. Although basically begonias are propagated from a whole leaf.

As for the decorative leaf begonia, it is the most versatile in terms of reproduction. After a while, such a plant loses its attractiveness, therefore it is necessary to constantly replant it using the method leaf propagation of begonia.

How to propagate begonia with a leaf?

To do this, you need to take the best, in your opinion, leaf, cut out the squares that should contain the main vein and put the leaf in a bowl that stands on a damp substrate. Then you need to put the bowl in a shaded place and, keeping the substrate moist, you can expect a new plant to appear in 1-2 months.

The vegetative method, basically, involves the propagation of begonia by a leaf. If you want to get a very large amount of a new plant, then you can divide the leaf into squares. But not all the leaves can be cut, so you need to be extremely careful when doing this work. First of all, the propagation of begonia by a leaf occurs with the cutting off of a healthy whole leaf, which is not damaged anywhere. After that, you need to put it on the glass and cut off the edges, but only where there are no thick veins. Then cut each leaf into squares, at least 2 cm thick. The finished leaves should be planted vertically, but you can also put them in the substrate. The leaves should take root in 20-30 days, it happens earlier, it happens longer. In order for begonia leaves to root well, you need to take a light substrate and maintain an air temperature of 22-24 degrees. This process can be accelerated by creating a mini-greenhouse for the cuttings. Cuttings should be covered and not opened until a new plant emerges. The first time you should ventilate for no more than 30 minutes, but then gradually increase the ventilation time.

There is another way to propagate this plant with a leaf. You need to take the best leaf, only with a handle 6-7 cm long. Then cut the leaf across the veins or make several cuts. After that, prepare moistened earth and put this sheet with the front side, lightly pressing and press down with small pebbles closer to the incisions. The pot must be placed in a not very lit place, and the sheet itself, for the best result, can be covered with a transparent film. Leaf begonia propagation occurs when the ground is kept constantly moist, for this it is best to use the spraying method.

Some varieties of deciduous begonias are very easy to grow - they can take root in a regular glass of water.

To do this, you need to take a leaf with a stem a little longer. In this case, the leaves also root very well, the main thing is that the petiole is at least 7 cm long.

And another way to propagate begonia with a leaf in a glass of water. To do this, you should take a piece of paper cut from the cutting itself and put it in a glass of water, where you dissolve the activated carbon. If the stalk starts to rot a little, then you need to cut it off a little, change the water and put it back.

It is also important to know that the propagation of begonia by a leaf is possible only when the leaves have pubescence in the lower part of the leaf, as well as if the begonia is domestic and has a creeping stem.