How to properly apply cow dung as fertilizer. How to make humus from weeds, grass and leaves

Nowadays, agricultural experts have come up with many ways to help recycle organic matter and increase it. beneficial features... Most of them are uncomplicated and require no use special devices... The most popular methods for changing the structure of a mullein include composting, vermicomposting, adding humates and infusion.

Composting

To make compost, it is not enough just to put it in a large container and wait until it is overheated. In this case, it will turn out that ordinary humus. This method is often used to store this substance. Compost is a more complex fertilizer containing many nutrients.

To get a full-fledged compost, you need to add a substrate from the last year to it. It will saturate the compost with beneficial bacteria that will decompose it. Above they give a layer consisting of various organic waste, and cover it with a mullein. Such layers must be made until the height of the heap is 1-1.5 meters. Then it is poured with enough water and left for a while. Usually, overheating is carried out after 5-6 months, but to ensure that a high-quality fertilizer is obtained, it is better to let it stand for a year.

Composting with worms

Using this method, you can get not only useful organic fertilizer, but also a constant source of soil nutrition. This is due to the presence of worms in its composition, which continue to live and multiply in the soil, thereby processing it.

To obtain compost, experts recommend using a hybrid of a red Californian worm with a Kuban one. Before processing mullein, slaked lime, ash, or bone meal must be added to the substrate to increase the acidity. The optimal pH value is 7.5-8. In a more alkaline environment, worms will not be able to exist and will die.

Processing with humates

Humates are special substances that are used to speed up the processing of the mullein base during composting. This method of obtaining fertilizer allows you to reduce its consumption by 2-3 times, without reducing efficiency. This is a very beneficial method from an economic point of view.

Method of using humates: 2-3 months before fertilizing the soil with a mullein, it is watered with a solution containing humates. For 10 kg of mullein, about 10 g of humates are needed. After watering, the pile must be thoroughly mixed to speed up the decomposition processes.

Infusion

This is the most quick way receiving. At the same time, harmful bacteria and microorganisms die. The ammonia content in this fertilizer is minimal.
Method of obtaining: the mullein is poured with water in a 1: 1 ratio, covered and left for 1-2 weeks. The resulting mixture is diluted with water again, in a ratio of 1:10 and the plants are watered in the evenings. Liquid mullein is not recommended to be poured at the very root. At a short distance from the plant, they dig small recesses and pour the solution into them.

Using fresh mullein

In some cases, fresh manure is used, despite its disadvantages. This is justified in the event that there is no time to wait until the compost is processed.

IN warm time years, a liquid solution is made from it. For 1 part of the mullein, 4 parts of water are given. Plants are watered with this solution in the evenings. On 1 square meter pour out 1.5 l of the mixture.
In the fall, manure is used when digging the soil. 10 liters of mullein are added per 1 square meter and buried to a depth of 30-40 cm.

With winter fertilization, the mullein is scattered over the snow. 15 liters of mullein are added to 1 square meter. In winter, the mullein needs to be applied a third more than usual. This is due to the evaporation of large amounts of nitrogen when interacting with air.

In the spring, mullein is used as biofuel for beds.

And a little about the secrets of the Author

Have you ever experienced unbearable joint pain? And you know firsthand what it is:

inability to move easily and comfortably;
discomfort when going up and down stairs;
unpleasant crunch, clicking not of their own free will;

Manure as a fertilizer is widely and widely used both in agricultural enterprises and in private summer cottages... It contains a huge amount organic matterthat stimulate plant growth, improve the structure of the soil mixture and enrich it with carbon, carbon dioxide and nitrogen. We invite you to learn how to make compost from manure and how to fertilize your plants in the beds with it.

Manure compost

Manure compost is the only possible form of its use in growing crops. New to gardening may think that manure in any form is good for plants, and that plants can be planted right along with fresh manure. There were even those who sowed vegetables on a pile of stored manure. Plants, on contact with fresh manure, experience strong oppression, and seedlings die. In such cases, they say "burned manure." What "burns" the plants? Raw manure corrosives, organic acids. Raw manure must lie in the soil for at least 1-2 months before they collapse. Then the "aggression" of manure is significantly softened, and some crops are able not only to endure it, but also to develop rapidly (such crops include, for example, cucumbers, pumpkin, white cabbage, corn). Most plants prefer more decomposed manure.

How to properly fertilize with manure

On the basis of these properties, the methods of how to fertilize your own manure have long been adopted in plant growing. land plot... It is brought in from the fall for digging into the prepared beds, it is composted until it is completely matted and turned into humus, finally, sometimes it is laid out raw in the tree-trunk circles of apple trees in the form of mulch and slow-acting fertilizer, in the expectation that caustic substances will not reach right to the roots. Before properly fertilizing with manure, you should take into account the composition of the existing soil mixture and calculate the required amount of additional mineral elements.

Organic fertilizer manure

The following tips for storing fresh manure in a heap can be given. Choose a place away from trees or bushes, which it can damage with its caustic incrustations: the pile will be high, from the rains something will inevitably drain from it into the soil. Should be protected fruit trees and shrubs, as well as many decorative, starting with conifers.

For storage, where organic fertilizer manure will be stored, it is better to choose a place where you will plant something later: the soil will come out from under it too much. It is a shame to watch how manure is stored somewhere behind a fence on no-man's land or near some maple tree, which then quite throws out shoots of incredible length. (Maple is not an apple tree: it will die near the dung heap, and maple or birch will flourish.)

When storing manure, cover it with a 15-20 cm layer of earth on top, and then cover it with some kind of film to prevent it from drying out.

Natural fertilizers mean not only getting ecologically clean agricultural products, but also significant budget savings. How you can make fertilizers at home and how to use them later on your site is described in this article. We will consider all possible ways of how to make fertilizers with your own hands based on a compost heap and humus.

The purpose of composting is to obtain organic fertilizer. How much is the game worth the candle? How nutritious is it compared to manure? In other words, can the compost obtained as a result of correct compilation and storage be equated in nutritional value to horse manure (of all horse manure, it is considered the best in terms of its properties)? This is a matter of principle.

Why? In horticultural practice, it is somehow forgotten that the original purpose of composting is to make fertilizer from various organic residues (kitchen waste, hay, sawdust, peat.) As nutritious as manure.

Manure as fertilizer

We state the immutable truth: There is nothing better than dung or dung for a personal plot. If the site is next to a farm and access to manure deposits - both freshly thrown and perennial - is allowed, then nothing else is needed. For indoor flowers, for planting holes, for bulbs, potatoes and tomatoes, you need to take old, well-worn manure, and for cabbage and cucumbers - fresh manure from another heap. Beauty! All rushing, blooming and pouring. manure, as fertilizer for agricultural crops, has an advantageous position, since it contains everything necessary for active growth and development.

But when there is no manure? For compost, in our understanding of the word, in different countries urban gardeners took over in their small gardens when manure became scarce and a substitute was needed.

Cow dung contains about as many nutrients:nitrogen - 0.5%; phosphorus - 0.2%; potassium - 0.5%.

This is, roughly speaking, to examine the "cake" left by a cow in the field. And if we talk about bedding manure, to which straw or sawdust is added, then the content individual elements in it may decrease.

With such seemingly small "percentages", manure, nevertheless, is an excellent fertilizer when applying 1-2 buckets per square meter, and for individual crops or in tree trunks it is brought in 3 or more buckets.

Horse manure contains a bit more nutrients: nitrogen - 0.6%; phosphorus - 0.3%; potassium - 0.6%.

How to cook humus with your own hands

Consider the process of how to make humus correctly on your own site, what you need to take into account for this. If you want to make your compost look more like horse manure, just a little more nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Horse manure has additional purely "technical" advantages over cow manure. It warms up better when creating warm beds, but most gardeners do not use these warmest beds due to the complexity of temperature control. In addition, horse manure contains less water than cow manure - this is also not such a significant advantage for us. From what has been said it follows that today there is no point in looking for the difference between horse and cow dung: they would both be an equally desirable source of fertility for our land.

In truth, most often garden compost contains many times more nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium than manure! Anyway, to have in garden compost 1.5-2% nitrogen from occasional faecal splash is typical. In the same way, as 2-3% of phosphorus and potassium - due to the addition of ash, also occasionally. In general, in different composts, the content of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium can jump a lot, so it is difficult to indicate uniform numbers for all composts. And the numbers that are given in different books are approximate and are not suitable for accurate calculations.

As for microelements, their content in compost is often higher and more varied than in manure. Therefore, in order to prepare humus, it is not required to use additional nitrogenous fertilizers.

There is also some conventionality in the issue of composting doses per square meter. Compost can be applied, like manure, at 1-3 buckets per square meter, and if it is enriched compost (say, fecal or ash), then no more than 1 bucket per square meter.

Therefore, it is not only possible, but also necessary to strive to make compost equal to manure, or even more nutritious than it. Getting rid of the “feeling of inferiority” is an important factor in composting, the gardener should not have the feeling that his “product”, with all his efforts, still falls short of real manure. Striving to create an organic fertilizer that is in no way inferior to manure is our main task in composting, not a tribute to some newfangled technology. In order to better cope with this task, it is not superfluous to understand a couple of simple things.

1. The main value of manure as a fertilizer is that it contains a lot of nitrogen and carbon material. Nitrogen contributes to the growth and development of plants to the maximum size, and this is an increase in yield, which, as we know, is necessarily observed when applying manure. Carbonaceous material replenishes or even grows the humus content of the soil, thus laying fertility for the future. Manure not only increases the yield, but also works for the future (according to its background, in the next 1-2 years, you can add one ash to the soil, for example, and it will still be noticeable high yield, all thanks to the carbon and nitrogen introduced with manure, which became part of the humus). This is the essential difference between manure and mineral fertilizers. And, accordingly, our compost will also favorably differ in the content of nitrogen and carbon from mineral fertilizers.

In some cases, gardeners get such compost that there is almost no nitrogen in it, because they did not care about its content. There is carbon, but not enough nitrogen. Such compost is obtained from peat, sawdust, from straw, from leaves fallen in autumn. Sometimes - from the cut grass: it was kept in a heap for so long, trying to strictly observe the "two-year cycle" that the gaseous losses of nitrogen became excessive. Such nitrogen-free compost, of course, will loosen the soil well, but, alas, it will not cause rapid growth.

Or, on the contrary, many people buy the so-called "liquid manure" - a solution of humates - which does not contain carbon material (more precisely, it is not enough there, although the solution has a dark color: there are organic humic substances there, but is it possible to compare the amount carbon from a truck of manure - from that "ton of manure" that a bottle of humates supposedly replaces!). After all, few people properly understand the importance of carbon to soil. A solution of humates due to its high nitrogen content will give good growth and an increase in the current yield, but it will not increase the humus content of the soil. Without humus, the soil is unreliable. With humus, it is as reliable as black soil! The more humus, the blacker the color of the soil. It is the carbon material that makes it dark. Hence the conclusion: at the worst end, compost from rotten sawdust, from straw, from tops will go - all this turns into a dark mass containing carbon. Otherwise, when burned, all the carbon leaves for nothing, into the air, in the form of CO2.

2. Manure, to become fertilizer, simply falls to the ground. Just "flop to the ground" from a cow. All! Here is a cow walking across the field, lazily chewing on a bunch of grass, and throwing cakes behind him - that's it, the manure has already gone into the cycle of substances in nature. It is already in this form created by nature as best fertilizer! No complex technologies for the further maturation of manure, for its fermentation, are not necessary. They fundamentally do not change anything: even without them, manure is an excellent fertilizer, and, if it happens in the garden, it would only be worth sprinkling it with earth to avoid nitrogen losses. Until now, after thousands of years, the best for the harvest is the technology of digging in fresh or rotten manure: even if it is shallow, by 5-10 cm, but it must be mixed with the ground in order to retain more nutrients - and this is enough for the plant roots. And if there is a lot of manure, then it is laid out on the surface in the form of mulch - and this is also a fertilizer: after waiting for the dangerous stage of "burns", the roots then come up from below and receive nutrition from its overheating.

To have an analogy with compost: he serves much more often good fertilizer for plants than it might seem. He just needs to be given time. Even improperly prepared compost will then straighten in the ground, if you do not expect immediate action from it.

If you observe the further fate of the cow cake in the field, you can see how greedily and almost without residue it will be divided between all living creatures in the coming days. First, flies will fly to lay the larvae, then when the cake dries up, all sorts of dung beetles will begin to eat it from the inside. Only the rain will have time to wash away something for the plants, but, according to the plan of nature, it should be enough for them: at one time a myriad of various hoofed animals roamed the fields, and they left a lot of droppings. There was enough for the plants: with constant renewal, it is not necessary to get the entire cake at the disposal of the roots. Heavy rainfall or melt water immediately transfers soluble substances from fresh and transient manure into the soil. Fresh manure does not burn the roots, since only a small part of the substances in the form of a weak solution is washed out of each rain. By the way, fresh manure is not so easily washed out with rainwater: it swells in the form of a dense monolith, from which excess water simply rolls off. Whoever collected manure behind a cow herd in the field will understand what they are talking about: soaked in rain, it is easily and completely removed from the grass, like jelly. Most often, the droppings and its remains accumulate in the felt of the grass litter, saturating the upper centimeters of the soil with humus. The usual process of soil formation. Each soil has such a "felt" on top, and in each soil under this felt 3-5 cm of its thickness have a sharply increased humus content - this thin layer is most loved by plant roots and, if possible, capture it first. The gardener must "cherish and cherish" this particular upper layerwithout letting it dry out - with the help of mulch, which imitates "felt".

In other words, the "ways" of manure can be very different, but in any case it will serve as fertilizer. It cannot be that manure turns out to be harmful. There is basically one mistake - to allow nitrogen to escape during storage: it would be good to sprinkle it with earth. However, there is another common mistake in working with manure: to confuse which crops need fresh manure and which ones need stale manure.

As for the different technologies for working with manure and compost, they are all good in some cases: not because they are the best, but because in different situations it is more convenient to use one technology or another.

For example, a good liquid top dressing - herbal fertilizer, which is nutritionally equivalent to slurry, is obtained using anaerobic microorganisms, and the classic loose compost for spring soil fertilization - using aerobic ones. The quality of plant nutrition in both cases depends on what you feed your microbes with. Compost can be good or weak - you need to recognize this in time in order to correct the situation as soon as possible. With the proper skill, organic matter decomposes confidently and quickly enough, because it is impossible to "hide" it from fungal spores, and for them the most important thing is humidity and heat. A gardener who knows the composting technique does not experience any difficulties in feeding his plants, he receives fertilizer in large quantities and quickly. He even, on the contrary, has an excess of fertilizers!

It is necessary to clarify such a concept as "humus". The word "humus" is always understood as the product of the "experience" of all kinds of organic residues, including animals. For example, in TSB it is written that humus is "a complex of soil organic substances formed during the decomposition and humification of plant and other organisms." Then, for some reason, some authors and editors narrowed the concept of humus: humus began to stubbornly call only the decomposition product of manure. They say, when the manure has poured, then it is humus, and when the grass has poured, then this is something else. And how, then, should one name the decomposition product of compost?

Compost heap in the country

If you just dump all the waste in one place, then you get a great compost heap in the country! Is it possible. Having accumulated all sorts of organic residues over the summer - and in the fall, dig into the beds or tree-trunk circles of fruit trees. Or dig in in the spring (but if under fruit trees, it is better still in the fall!). This is the path of the so-called one-year compost, that is, "from spring to spring". Even so simplistic, this is an excellent fertilizer. Considering the rather fast decomposition rate of finely chopped organic substances, this is tolerable: over the course of the season, organic matter partially began to disintegrate, and everything in the ground will mature quite quickly. But such a "raw" fertilizer will nourish plants for a long period. Only with this use, it will be necessary to mix the entire contents of the heap before spreading, so that the later layers would mix with the more decomposed lower layers of the compost.

DIY compost pile

Do-it-yourself compost pile is nowhere easier: put a box without a bottom suitable sizes in any corner of the garden hidden from view. Required component to the box - an even path. If possible, lay a path of light tiles to it, since you will have to walk in rainy weather.

Stirring the compost in the fall before spreading is not as laborious as it might seem, you do not need to lift the whole heap on a pitchfork. Stirring occurs by itself in another operation. Throwing back the box, you gradually need to chop off the tops from above with a sharp shovel. It is convenient to "shave off" small crumbs from the edge, mixing layers and immediately filling buckets with them. Since it happens in the fall, you can add the collected fallen leaves to this compost. Or you can also use autumn vegetable tops. The main thing is to mix everything well before digging (when fresh tops get into the soil with pieces of old growing vegetation, it serves as a "leaven", the destruction of the tops is accelerated, by spring everything will be ready in the best). Or let the fallen leaves and tops go on the next compost heap... Just install a new box in a different location.

Manure is a natural fertilizer, the most famous and used in all countries of the world, throughout the history of world agriculture. This view organic matter is a natural source of macroelements - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, as well as a number of microelements, such as lime, magnesia, sulfur, chlorine and silicon, necessary for the full vital activity of plants.

Supporters mineral dressings it is often said that manure is a fertilizer of the past, that it is not very effective, its composition is not balanced, it is inconvenient to work with it, and, in the end, it smells unpleasant. Yes, all these disadvantages are present when using manure. But, at the same time, this organic substrate has such an advantage that mineral fertilizers do not, and cannot be. With the help of the components of manure, a fertile layer is formed, which, when mineral fertilizers are applied, is only depleted. Dung biomass over time transforms into humus, forming the upper humus horizon, without the constant renewal of which the most blooming garden turns into a desert.

Manure processing methods

For use in the garden and vegetable garden, agronomists usually recommend using well-rotted manure, in which the minimum content of ammonia, and it does not "burn" the roots of plants. Also, there are no harmful microorganisms in its composition, they die in the process of decomposition.

Nowadays, there are many methods that help to quickly change the structure of fresh organic matter and improve its consumer qualities. For example, the processing of manure into fertilizer can be done in the following ways that are available to all gardeners and do not require special equipment:

Composting

You cannot get compost by simply placing manure in a high pile and waiting for it to grind, as the end result is ordinary humus. In this way, only manure is usually stored. And compost is a fertilizer richer in nutrients, since it contains many components.

To make a compost heap according to all the rules, it is necessary to lay last year's substrate at its base, which will provide a pile the required amount bacteria fermenting organic matter. The next layers are made from any organic waste (grass, tops, peels of vegetables and fruits), which is sprinkled with manure. Such a "layer cake" is erected until it reaches a height of 1-1.5 meters. Then the pile is poured over with water and left to roast. The processed manure can be used as fertilizer within a few months. But, optimal time for the maturation of compost based on livestock waste, a time interval equal to a year is considered.

Vermicomposting

IN last years organic farming is gaining popularity, which uses methods of natural renewal of nutrients in the soil, without the use of chemicals and mineral fertilizers.

Manure composting using worms (vermicomposting) allows you to get not only useful fertilizer, but also a permanent, self-renewable source of nutrition for the soil, since along with this substrate, worms are introduced into the beds, where they continue their life and reproduction, processing the soil around them ...

In the conditions of the middle lane for vermicomposting, agronomists recommend choosing a hybrid of red Californian worms with worms of the Kuban natural population. Before proceeding with their help to the processing of manure into fertilizer, the substrate must be acidified with slaked lime, or bone meal to an indicator of 7.5-8 pH units, since the worms cannot live in a neutral environment.

Accelerated fermentation using humates

These natural supplements are used to accelerate the fermentation process of the manure substrate during composting. They make the use of manure very economical, since after its treatment with bioactive preparations, the application rate of this organic fertilizer can be reduced three times, while maintaining the same efficiency. The price of manure in this case also decreases, due to a decrease in the volume of its use.

Humates are used to ferment organic matter as follows - 2-3 months before adding it to the soil (usually in early spring, as soon as constant positive temperatures are established), the manure heap is spilled with a solution of humates, adding about 10 g of biostimulants per 10 kg of manure. After the procedure, the heap is thoroughly mixed to speed up the processing.

Infusion

This is the most quick method processing of manure, which allows you to get rid of excess ammonia contained in uric acid, and kill harmful microflora, including worms and nematode eggs. It is very simple to use it - horse, pork or cow dung pour water 1: 1, and insist for a week. The resulting working solution is diluted again, in a ratio of 1:10, and the resulting mixture is watered over the plants in the evening. Manure infusion cannot be poured at the very root, therefore it is poured into the carved grooves between the plants.

Video: preparing liquid fertilizer from droppings / manure

Application of fresh manure

Fresh manure can be used for fertilization, although nutrients from its composition it is harder for plants to absorb. But, sometimes the end justifies the means, since it is not always possible to wait until the compost matures.

Fresh manure is used when there is no time, but there is a large amount of animal organic matter. Then, with manure, proceed as follows:

In summer, liquid fertilizer is prepared from manure. To do this, manure is bred in warm water in the proportion ¼, and the resulting mixture is watered along the edge of the plants trunk circle in evening time. For 1 sq. consume 1.5 liters of solution.
In autumn, it is used when digging soil. The manure application rate is 1 bucket (10 liters) per sq. M., The embedding depth is no more than 30-40 cm.
In winter, the soil is pre-fertilized with manure, scattering it around the garden directly over the snow cover. The consumption rate is 1.5 buckets per square meter, since with prolonged interaction with air (and in this case, the manure will be on the surface of the earth), it loses a significant part of nitrogen, and therefore this organic fertilizer is required with this method of application more.
In spring, they are used as biofuel in the construction of warm beds for cucumbers and other melons and gourds. Lamb manure will be most preferable for this purpose, since it has a heating temperature inside the heap of at least 60-70 ° C, and cow, pork and horse manure is 15-20 degrees lower. When applying fresh manure for seasonal feeding garden plants, it is necessary, in accordance with clause 4.4 of GOST 26074-84, to withstand a certain time interval before harvesting, otherwise finished products worms and other unpleasant microorganisms can migrate.

Manure types

Cow dung

This type of organic is the most common. Cow dung is used to fertilize all types of plants in all agricultural zones. But it must be applied skillfully, otherwise you can oversaturate the finished product with nitrates, which are contained in it in large quantities. The composition of this substrate is as follows (per 1 kg of mass):

Total nitrogen - 3.5 g;
Calcium (oxide) - 2.9 g;
Phosphorus (oxide) - 3 g;
Potassium (oxide) - 1.4 g

When choosing the concentration of feeding, it should be borne in mind that, depending on the age and sex of the animal, chemical composition manure can vary. For example, the excrement of adult cows contains 15% more nutrients than calves and bull calves of the first year of life. It is recommended to introduce this substrate in the amount of 7-10 kg per sq. M., Depending on the fertility of the soil.

The temperature of cow dung at a depth of 1 meter is about - 31-34 ° С, at a depth of more than two meters - 40-46 ° С. At the bottom - 23-28 ° С. Therefore, the optimal heating beds for cucumbers will be piles of manure at least 1 meter high, only such a volume is able to sufficiently warm the surface, providing a high temperature.

Cow dung, despite its wide distribution, is one of the most non-nutritious types of organic matter, since it contains the least amount of nutrients. At the same time, this property may even be useful, since it reduces the risk of an overdose of fruits with elements from the NPK complex, and, accordingly, the risk of nitrate poisoning of the finished product.

Horse dung

This type of organic fertilizer is considered one of the best, and is used both indoors and in open ground... Horse excrement contains large quantity nutrients than cow dung.

The approximate chemical composition is as follows (per 1 kg of mass):

Total nitrogen - 4.7 g;
Calcium (oxide) - 3.5 g;
Phosphorus (oxide) - 3.8 g;
Potassium (oxide) - 2 g.

Horse manure as fertilizer is used in the preparation of the soil for garden crops such as squash, squash and pumpkin. When fertilizing the soil with manure, it is recommended to apply it in the amount of 5 kg per 1 sq. This amount is sufficient, since there is more nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in its composition than in mullein. If horse excrement is used in the greenhouse as biofuel, the manure must be poured in a layer of at least 30 cm, and spilled thoroughly hot water with potassium permanganate, to destroy harmful microflora, including fungi. From above it is covered with a layer of fertile soil, at least 20 cm thick.

Video: horse manure and its application

Pig manure

Slurry from pig farms is also used as fertilizer. These include excrement (both solid and liquid), feed residues, bristles, and a small amount of litter (hay, straw or sawdust).

Pig manure is considered one of the most "caustic". Indeed, it contains a large amount of nitrogen in the form of ammonia, a high concentration of which is present in the urine of these animals.

The chemical composition of pork manure, on the first day after receiving, looks like this (per 1 kg of mass):

Total nitrogen - 8.13 g;
Calcium (oxide) - 7.74 g;
Phosphorus (oxide) - 7.9 g;
Potassium (oxide) - 4.5 g.

Pork manure, unlike cow or horse manure, is a semi-liquid suspension, where solids (in the form of granules 3-5 mm in size) occupy at least of the total volume. Pork excrement is rather difficult to separate into fractions, so they are usually transported in closed containers.

In the article "The use of pig manure for fertilizing agricultural crops" (Promising pig breeding: theory and practice, issue 5, 2012), the authors G.E. Merzloy, I.V. Shchegolevoy, M.V. Leonova., this organic fertilizer was compared with cattle manure. The authors pointed to interesting feature nitrogen contained in this type of organic matter, 70% of which is in an easily assimilated form, and tends to accumulate in the soil in a mineral form. This is a big plus for pig manure, but also a noticeable minus. This saturation makes this substrate difficult to use. It is recommended to dilute it well, twice as thin as mullein, and keep it in compost for much longer.

Rabbit manure

This substrate differs from other types of organic matter in its consistency and composition, since it is much drier than all other types of animal organic matter, which greatly facilitates its transportation. Another benefit of rabbit manure is that it does not contain weed seeds, which allows it to be used without composting. Of the harmful microorganisms in rabbit droppings, only coccidia are contained, which can only harm the body of rabbits. To avoid this, in hot weather, storing manure near the cages is strictly prohibited.

Rabbit excrement is used in the same way as cattle waste, is introduced into the ground for plowing or digging, insisted in compost, and liquid fertilizers are prepared from them. But there is one way of processing that is impossible for other species - dry powder is made from rabbit droppings, which is used not only for personal plot, but also at home, for feeding home flowers. To prepare it, the pellets are dried in the sun and pounded in a mortar. After that, mix with the ground, at the rate of 1 tbsp. spoon for 3 liters. land, and fall asleep in pots designed for planting home flowers. Rabbit manure can be bought not only on farms, but also in large supermarkets of garden products.

Ready manure is good because it has already been disinfected in accordance with GOST 26074-84 (Veterinary and sanitary requirements for processing, storage, transportation and use), and it can be used immediately, since it is already rotted and thoroughly dried.

Video: rabbit manure and biohumus

The use of organic matter as fertilizer for personal plots has never lost its relevance, and, in the past few years, in the wake of a resurgence in popularity organic farming, significantly pressed mineral fertilizers... Humanity comes to understand that the thoughtless exploitation of lands leads to their depletion, due to the rapid reduction of the humus layer. The use of animal organics interferes with this process and contributes to the restoration of a fertile soil horizon. This property natural fertilizers when choosing a top dressing for your garden and vegetable garden, he is increasingly inclining the choice of gardeners towards organic matter, because it renews the most important resource - soil fertility, and therefore is a fertilizer of the future.

Sakura is most often associated with Japan and its culture. Picnics in the shade flowering trees have long been an integral part of the meeting of spring in the Land of the Rising Sun. The financial and academic year starts here on April 1, when the magnificent cherry blossoms are in full bloom. Therefore, many significant moments in the life of the Japanese are marked by their blossoming. But sakura grows well in cooler regions - certain species can be successfully grown even in Siberia.

Agriculture belongs to such types human activitiesthe successful outcome of which is not always directly proportional to the efforts made. Unfortunately, nature does not necessarily act as our ally in growing plants, but often even, on the contrary, throws up new challenges. Increased reproduction of pests, abnormal heat, late return frosts, hurricane winds, drought ... And one of the springs presented us with another surprise - a flood.

I will allow myself to confess my love today. In love for ... lavender. One of the best unpretentious, evergreen and flowering shrubsthat can be successfully grown in your garden. And if someone thinks that lavender is Mediterranean, or at least southern, then you are wrong. Lavender grows well and more northern regions, even in the suburbs. But in order to grow it, you need to know some rules and features. They will be discussed in this article.

Having once tasted such an invaluable product as pumpkin, it is already difficult to stop looking for new recipes for serving it to the table. Korean pumpkin, despite its pungency and spice, has a fresh and delicate taste. After cooking, you will need to cover the salad and let it brew for at least 15 minutes. My butternut squash is very juicy and sweet, so there is no need to crush it. If the pumpkin is of a different variety, then you can knead it with your hands so that it slightly sips the juice.

Salad, as the earliest and unpretentious green culture, has always been held in high esteem by gardeners. Spring planting most summer residents usually start by sowing lettuce, parsley and radish. Recently, the pursuit of healthy eating and a large selection of greens in supermarkets make gardeners wonder which of these plants can be grown in their beds? In this article, we will tell you about the nine most interesting, in our opinion, types of salad.

Pollock is best cooked in a casserole, separating the fillets from the skin and bones. Pieces of fish are mixed with a variegated vegetable set, poured with a sauce of cheese, sour cream and eggs. This fish casserole has a presentable look, and its taste is a whimsical mixture of subtle nuances. Vegetables and fillets will be soaked in sour cream, cheese will harden with a golden brown crust, eggs will tie all the ingredients together. Pieces of fish are plentifully sprinkled with Italian herbs, and pollock acquires an unusual piquancy.

Despite the fact that the calendar spring begins in March, you can truly feel the awakening of nature only with the appearance flowering plants in the garden. Nothing testifies to the arrival of spring as eloquently as the clearing of flowering primroses. Their appearance is always a small holiday, because winter has receded, and a new gardening season awaits us. But, in addition to spring primroses, there is still something to see and admire in the garden in the month of April.

Growing rapidly and turning into wild thickets, hogweed disrupts the existing ecosystem and suppresses all other plants. Essential oilscontained in the fruits and leaves of hogweed, cause severe forms of dermatitis. At the same time, it is much more difficult to deal with it than with other common weeds. Fortunately, today a remedy has appeared on the free sale that can rid your site of most weeds, including hogweed, in a short time.

Carrots come in different colors: orange, white, yellow, purple. Beta-carotene and lycopene predominate in orange carrots, yellow due to the presence of xanthophylls (lutein); white carrots are high in fiber, while purple carrots contain anthocyanin, beta and alpha carotenes. But, as a rule, gardeners choose carrot varieties for sowing not by the color of the fruit, but by the timing of their ripening. About the best early, middle and late varieties we will explain in this article.

We recommend a fairly easy pie recipe with an appetizing chicken and potato filling. Open pie with chicken and potatoes is a great hearty dish that is perfect for a hearty snack, it is very convenient to take a couple of these baked goods on the road. The cake is baked in the oven for one hour at 180 degrees. After that we put it on wooden surface, having previously released it from the form. It is enough to slightly cool the baked goods and you can start tasting.

The long-awaited spring for many indoor plants is the period of the start of active vegetation, and for the majority - and the return of their decorative effect. Admiring young leaves and emerging shoots, one should not forget that spring is also a great stress for all indoor plants. Sensitive and versatile, all indoor crops experience much brighter lighting, changes in humidity and temperature conditions.

You can easily cook homemade Easter cake with cottage cheese and candied fruits, even without any pastry experience behind you. You can bake cake not only in special form or in a paper form. For the first culinary experiences (and not only), I advise you to take a small cast iron pan... The cake in a frying pan will not turn out as high as in a narrow form, but it never burns and always bakes well inside! Yeast curd dough turns out to be airy and aromatic.

It is also interesting in that its fruits (pumpkins) are used for food by young, not ripe (greens). This means that there is no need to wait for the ripening of the crop, and from late spring to autumn you can have on the menu fresh vegetables... It is better to grow varieties and hybrids of zucchini that are resistant to diseases and changes in weather conditions in your beds. This eliminates unwanted processing and allows you to harvest in any weather. It is about such varieties of zucchini that will be discussed in this article.

IN middle lane April is the time when the first flowering of plants in gardens and parks begins. The invariable soloists of the spring that came into its own are bulbous primroses. But also among ornamental shrubs you can find those that will delight you with fragrant flowers that enliven the still inconspicuous garden. The main riot of flowering ornamental shrubs falls on the month of May, and most of them, as a rule, bloom in mid-May.