Do-it-yourself facing tiles for the facade of the house. Do-it-yourself facade tiles - sharing our manufacturing experience

A house finished with tiles has several advantages at once - it is beautiful and durable. You can buy an exclusive custom-made material or purchase a product you like in a store, or you can make it yourself and decorate the walls yourself. Do-it-yourself forms of facade tiles are not as difficult to make as it seems at first glance. This article tells about the most reliable and uncomplicated ways to produce tile material at home.

Many people doubt whether this whole process can be carried out without special equipment, how strong the material will be. Therefore, before you start making facing products yourself, you need to study what a tile is and how it is made in production.

In total, there are several main types of tiles according to the main component:

• concrete - made of cement, sand and plasticizers;
• ceramic - made from specially varieties of clay and fired in ovens at high temperatures;
• clinker - high-quality clays are pressed under high pressure and fired at a temperature of about 1200 degrees;
• porcelain stoneware - it is made like clinker, but granite chips are added to the composition;
• terracotta - made from the porous clay of the same name.

Brick elements look natural and neat

Each type corresponds to the manufacturing method and the main filler, which gives the material aesthetic and protective properties. Tiled products can be divided according to their shape:

• finishing facade stone;
• clinker brick;
• imitation of finishing or masonry bricks;
• flat rectangular tiles with a smooth, rough, matte or glossy surface.

Manufacturing processes can be: firing or dry pressing. Familiar pottery goes the way:

• Extraction of raw materials in quarries.
• Material processing, cleaning.
• Formation;
• Drying;
• Burning.

Concrete tile production is quite affordable for everyone

For concrete products and for many types of artificial stones, the process is limited to vibratory casting and drying.

Let's compare what equipment is used in production, how it can be replaced at home.

• The crushing and extrusion machine can be replaced with a ready-mix from a hardware store.
• A concrete mixer can completely replace a mini concrete mixer or a bucket and drill with a nozzle.
• The vibrocasting press will replace the vibrating table.
• Ressing forms can be made by yourself or purchased in a store.

As you can see, the whole process is easy to repeat at home. Some will ask what it is for, because the required material can be bought for a suitable amount. But here's an example, you have conceived a design, and a suitable stone is not on sale, or there is, but the color does not fit. It can also be too expensive. After all, this kind of cladding may not exist at all. That's when your own hands and helpful advice come to the rescue.

For wood, it is important to choose a relief textured pattern

Form making

Today it is quite possible to get ready-made forms. They are for all types of tiles, if you look well, you will be lucky to buy exactly what you need. The most important thing is not to buy cheap plastic matrices. Usually they are enough for no more than one mortar placement, after which the plastic becomes unusable. As already noted, a suitable form may not be on sale, then you will inevitably have to make it yourself. Whatever material for the matrix you choose, you can take an artificial analogue, tile or natural stone as a basis. If you stop at the second option, then buy several different samples, remember that nothing is the same in nature. The basis can be a wooden beam, a log. The main thing is to choose a beautiful wood texture. Let's understand the technology of the form.

Immediately, we note that the base can be made for one tile or immediately for a group of stones. The second is more profitable to do, since several finished products are obtained at once, the speed of work, respectively, increases. Whatever material you use, you will need formwork. Get it ready-made or make it yourself.

It is cheaper to choose a silicone sealant in a large package

Silicone

Silicone is sold in different packaging. You'd better look in buckets, because in tubes you will overpay for packaging, but you need a lot of it.

Now we lubricate the bottom and walls of the formwork with a special lubricant, and lay tiles or stones on the bottom. The sources also need to be lubricated, since they will have to be freed from silicone.

Important! If gypsum stone or tile is used as a starting material, then they must be covered with several layers of varnish, only then coated.

The form is filled to the brim

Prepare a soapy solution for brushes and a spatula. We apply silicone, smooth it with a brush, constantly pressing. This will avoid bubbles. Now it is advisable to tamp the silicone and smooth with a soapy spatula. The mold must now be left until the silicone hardens.

The polymerization process takes a long time. The standard speed is 2mm per day. The thicker the future workpiece, the longer it will take. Do not rush to pull out the matrix, the stronger it becomes, the more time it can be used. Poorly polymerized form can be used once or twice. Typical properties of silicone sealant to consider when working:

• tensile strength - 01 MPa;
• density - 1200 kg / m3;
• viability - 8 hours;
• durability - 20 years.

Basis for stone tiles

After complete solidification, the material is removed, the matrix is \u200b\u200bwashed with soap and can be used.

Compound forming dies

There are special formulations for casting molds. These can be purchased from hardware stores or art departments. There is no need, they are chasing imported trains, our trains are of good quality, reasonable cost.

The example shown in the photo has two components. Silagerm -5035 has a tensile strength of about 4 MPa, a shrinkage of no more than 1%, and a full hardening time of a day.

The quality of the composition is better, and accordingly the forms from it are used longer.

Important! Before pouring gypsum or cement, lubricate the mold with a special compound - Tiprom, then it will last even longer.

Domestic polyurethane compound

Professional production of tile material at home

Do-it-yourself tiles are made on the basis of gypsum or cement. Gypsum cladding is usually used indoors, but if its surface is saturated with hydrophobic substances, then it can be used on building facades in dry climates. Nevertheless, many people are interested in gypsum products, since it is easier for them to give the required color, they have better adhesion and are much lighter than cement elements.

Production of gypsum-based cladding elements

To work you need the following tools and materials:

1. Plaster, preferably white.
2. Purified river sand.
3. Lemon powder.
4. Dyes required.
5. PVA glue.
6. Drill with mixing attachment.
7. Forming matrices.
8. Plastic bucket for mortar.
9. Brushes and spatula.

Plaster can be different too

Prepare a place to dry the material before work. It should be perfectly even so that the products are of the same thickness. Let's consider the whole process in stages.

Finished elements can be white to match

Video instructions for making tile elements from gypsum mortar

We invite you to watch a detailed video tutorial. By watching it, you will learn how to cast beautiful finishes for your home with ease.

Cement slabs

Cement or concrete tiles and artificial stones are much more in demand, as they can be used on any facades, garden paths and other types of landscape design. Nothing will happen to them in any weather. This tile is resistant to weathering, chemical and biological effects. It is strong and durable. Such products can be formed from Portland cement, river sand and water. PVA glue is added as a plasticizer. Then everything is familiar:

• After the mortar has set a little, a mesh is drawn on it to improve the adhesive properties.
• The tile should dry out. Then it is carefully removed from the molds and left to dry completely for several weeks. It is then stacked on pallets and stored in a dry, dark place.

Storage of finished products

In order to avoid mistakes during installation, we will give some recommendations that will help make the cladding process of higher quality and faster.

Seamless installation method

Making the cladding yourself is a fascinating process, in addition, it is useful for the wallet, will satisfy any requests and imagination. Do not rush to buy ready-made finishing material, perhaps you will get exclusive forms of facade tiles as in the photo and even do it yourself.

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Igor Robertovich, Chelyabinsk asks the question:

I heard that it is quite simple to make do-it-yourself clinker tiles for bricks, but the technology of work was not explained to me. Now I have built a dacha, and the question of finishing the facade arose. I have not yet decided what to do: buy ready-made material or try to make tiles myself? I would like to know the advantages of clinker tiles, the peculiarities of manufacturing and installation, in order to do the finishing by hand. Thank you in advance.

The expert answers:

DIY brick tiles are made using a silicone mold and using simple materials: gypsum, cement, sand and color.

Manufacturing technology is simple. First, a model of tiles is made from plasticine, covered with silicone and waited for drying. 2 cans of silicone sealant are enough for 2 molds. Next, a solution is prepared: 2 portions of gypsum, 1 portion of sand, 1 portion of cement.

Color is added, everything is stirred and poured into a mold. The product is ready in 15 minutes. You can dry it in the oven or on a stove bench. To prevent the tile from crumbling and smearing, it must be covered with a primer.

A homemade product will not have the characteristics of a factory-made material, but sometimes this is a good way out of a difficult situation.

Clinker tiles from the manufacturer are a type of ceramics. It has high strength due to long-term high temperature firing of clay. It is easy to work with it, but the price is several times higher than that of ceramic tiles.

If you have no work experience, read the instructions and watch a video that will show the features of installation and manufacturing.

The technology of laying clinker tiles under a brick does not differ much from laying ordinary ceramic tiles. Regardless of whether you will lay tiles on a concrete or plastered surface, the surface must be flat, free of dirt and covered with soil.

Choose the right glue. For facades, you need a high-quality material that does not absorb moisture and is resistant to low temperatures.

The clinker withstands dampness, frost and sunlight well. It does not need further maintenance if the joints between the tiles are well worn.

The work is carried out according to the generally accepted scheme.

The main stages of work:

• leveling the surface;
• markup;
• stirring the adhesive solution;
• laying tiles;
• covering the seams.

Used tools:

• level;
• drill with mixer;
• putty knife;
• container for glue;
• painting cord.

The wall is leveled and primed. On the concrete wall, you need to put a rough layer of plaster with the installation of the facade mesh. If the wall is well leveled, then the tiles are moistened only with water or a small layer of glue. The seam thickness is due to special removable inserts or a rod.

It is necessary to mark the wall using a water level and a paint cord. Usually, work starts from the second row, because the first basement row is laid out last. Sometimes work begins along a guide, which is laid out on the level from the bottom in the second row.

Laying should start from window and door openings or from corners. Apply adhesive with a notched trowel and combine the tiles relative to each other according to the brickwork principle.

The tile adhesive is applied with a trowel with a notch depth of about 10 mm. The product under the brick is laid at random, as in the case of brickwork. To lay the corners, you need to use corner elements that will help imitate brickwork and speed up the work process.

When laying clinker tiles under a brick with their own hands, a rod is sometimes used. To lay the next seam, a rod is placed on top of the previous one to ensure an even distribution of the material.

Further, when the glue dries, the rod or inserts are removed and the joint is filled with mortar for grouting. The joints must be carefully sealed to prevent water from getting under the tiles. The solution is prepared using a mixer using the manufacturer's recommendations.

The house, lined with clinker tiles, looks solid, stylish, attractive, and the facade will not fade or decay even after a long time.

And get answers to your questions.

Varieties of forms

A huge selection of casting molds allows you to create facing tiles that can satisfy any design idea and exactly repeat the texture:

• marble pile;
• limestone pile;
• faceted limestone;
• curly slate;
• cliff;
• dolomite.

Independent production of facade tiles

In order to avoid unnecessary expenses and save money, many owners are engaged in the independent manufacture of facade tiles, referring to various sources for information. Following these instructions, you can easily establish this simple production process at home. So, making a tile you need:

1. engage in the acquisition and preparation of molds for casting tiles;
2. assemble yourself or buy a vibrating table;
3. knead the solution for the future material;
4. to form the product on a vibrating table;
5. let the product stand in the form for at least 24 hours;
6. to carry out work on the formwork of the manufactured material;
7. use tiles for cladding or store them properly.

The video shows one of the ways to make facade tiles with your own hands

Observing mandatory production conditions, you can significantly reduce material costs. Prices for molds for the production of facing tiles differ depending on the material from which they are created.

Stages of work on the manufacture of facade tiles

All work on the creation of facade tiles can be divided into the following stages:

1. extraction, transportation and storage of material (career stage);
2. material processing (mechanical stage);
3. forming a product from processed materials;
4. drying;
5. burning.

Quarry mining.The technological process for the production of facing tiles originates from the quarrying of materials for its manufacture. In order to increase the elasticity of the components (for example, clay) and thereby improve their molding properties, they are soaked and subjected to freezing throughout the year.

Processing stage. To ensure high-quality mechanical processing of the material for the production of facade tiles, they do it using clay processing machines. Their job is to isolate and recycle third-party inclusions.

Tile forming process. In the process of molding facade tiles, two methods are used:

1. semi-dry pressing;
2. plastic molding.

Drying process... After molding, the material must be dried. Otherwise, the lining will crack during firing and will not shrink evenly.

Firing process. At the final stage of the production of outdoor tiles, a firing process takes place, which contributes to the formation of the structure of the material and its technical properties. In the production of facade tiles, in addition to clay, a concrete mixture is used. It is she who allows you to create the cladding yourself at home.

For concrete mix, the vibrocasting method is used. This method guarantees production with low porosity and allows the use of sand, crushed stone, cement, various pigments and plasticizers in the production process. The standard equipment for home production is a concrete mixer and vibratory plate.

Equipment selection

So, in the manufacture of facing tiles by vibration casting, both privately and in production, will need:

• concrete mixer;
• vibrating table;
• molds for casting.

In the production process of creating a cladding material, the following are used:

• crushing machine;
• extruder;
• concrete mixer;
• press;
• molds for casting.

Additional equipment are gas and electric dryers, vibrating sieve and table with weights.

Good afternoon, dear users of our site. This article will focus on concrete tiles, which you can make with your own hands and later decorate your fence with it. Below is a technological illustrated map with which you will learn this useful skill.

Initially, you will need to get a special tool and accessories. The most important device is plastic molds (photo1). You can buy them in a specialized store. The second important point is the presence of a vibrating table (photo 2). You can either buy it or make it yourself. We will not dwell on this now. The second thing you need is a heating bath. It is done very simply: any metal trough is taken. A metal mesh is laid at its bottom. After that, the container is filled with water. An ordinary boiler is placed on the grid directly into the water (it is advisable to use more powerful). Do not forget to make grounding from the metal trough body. With regard to materials, specific components required are: plasticizer, mold release agent. What it is and why it is used, you will learn a little later. Regarding lubrication: Any lubricant with a light, oily consistency will do.

So, the process of making tiles at the initial stage involves the preparation of forms. Your task is to clean the front plastic surface from dust and dirt. Also, the front surface is covered with grease. This is necessary so that in the future the form lags easily behind the concrete product. In addition, the presence of lubrication allows a smooth surface on the finished product. After applying a layer of grease with a brush, it must be removed with a rag. Only a thin film of lubricant remains on the form, which is what we need.

When the preparatory work with the forms is completed, we proceed to the next step: we lay out the forms on the vibrating table (photo 3). After that, you can start mixing the concrete solution. The ingredients for the mixture are standard: water, cement and sand. However, it is also important to add a plasticizer. This substance has an oily structure, a pungent odor and a black color. Thanks to the plasticizer, concrete gains strength faster and also becomes more plastic, which prolongs the life of the products made from it. The mold is filled in a one-layer system. The ratio of cement and sand is 1: 2 (1 cement, 2 sand). The concrete to be mixed should have approximately the same consistency as in the photo below (photo 4).

At the third step, we fill in the forms with the ready-made solution. Then we turn on the vibrating table so that the concrete is properly compacted and fills all the grooves (photo 5). Remove excess mortar in the form with a trowel. Upon completion of these works, the forms are exhibited in a warm, non-humid room for drying for about 17-18 hours (photo 6).

To get the tiles out of the mold, they should be preheated in a bath. Thanks to this method of removing the product from the mold, the edges do not break off, the process speed is significantly increased.

What the finished frozen product looks like can be seen in the photo below (photo 7) (photo 8) (photo 9).

When you have made a sufficient number of tiles and give them the right time for the concrete to harden, you can start facing the fence. The concrete tile is fixed to the base in the same way as any other tile: with tile adhesive. Seams between products are filled with a joint. By attaching the tile to the fence, you can paint it. It is best to use a spray bottle for this purpose.

The finished painted tile on the fence looks like this:

After reading this article, you might get the impression that making concrete tiles yourself is an expensive and unjustified process. In fact, this is not the case, since a person, using this technology, not only saves material resources, but also receives a product that is not only inferior in quality, but even surpasses that which can be purchased now in stores. Also, such tiles have an order of magnitude longer service life, especially when compared with dry-pressed products.

Video:

Good luck in all your endeavors!