Rhododendron when to start watering after winter. Top dressing of rhododendrons in August: types of fertilizers, plant care

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With a lack of nutrients in rhododendrons, the color of the leaves becomes light green, their luster decreases, the shoots become yellowish-green. In addition, the annual growth of plants is significantly reduced, flower buds are not laid, and leaves fall intensively in August and early September. How to deal with this disease?

The mineral nutrition of rhododendrons is largely determined by the peculiarity of their root system - the presence of mycorrhiza. It contributes not only to the normal growth of plants on very acidic, mineral-poor soils, but also to the germination of their seeds. At the same time, it requires acidic soil.

Due to the presence of mycorrhiza, it is impossible to use and chlorine-containing fertilizers because the chlorine kills it. For the same reason, it is impossible to feed plants with fertilizers of a high concentration of nutrient solution.
Therefore, when such signs appear, it is necessary first of all to pay attention to the acidity of the soil, and if it is within the range of 4.5-5.5 pH (ideally - 4.7), optimize the diet.

Soil acidity can be increased by adding acidic sphagnum peat or heather soil. Accordingly, when growing rhododendrons, lime, dolomite flour and any fertilizers that alkalize the soil cannot be applied. With a strong change in pH to the alkaline side, yellow spots (chlorosis) appear on the leaves.

Top dressing. Important feature rhododendrons - very compact root system. Therefore, plants need good drainage, loose, rich in humus, with good soil aeration. If in the first years, with a well-filled planting pit, the rhododendron develops normally, then in the subsequent years (with the complete absence of dressings or their lack, the reserves of nutrients are depleted and the acidity of the soil decreases), its decorative effect decreases, and the plant may even die.

You need to feed in early spring and after flowering during the intensive growth of young shoots. At the end of July, top dressing is stopped, since the heat and humidity of the soil and air can provoke a secondary growth of shoots that do not have time to complete growth.

And in the fall, even with the first light frosts, they freeze slightly. You can stop it by spraying the crown with a 1% solution of potassium sulphate K2SO4 or monosubstituted potassium phosphate KHNO4. Before any top dressing, the plants need to be watered abundantly. organic fertilizers. Organics must be applied in a liquid, diluted form. Manure is diluted (1:15-20), insisted for several days. In spring or autumn, humus can be laid out near the bush with a layer of up to 5 cm. Together with melt or rain water nutrients get into the soil layer where the root system is located. In this case, they come for a long time and therefore are most fully absorbed by rhododendrons.

mineral fertilizers. There is mineral fertilizers for rhododendrons. In their absence, ammonium nitrate (10-15 g / l) can be added in early spring; before budding - complex fertilizer; at the end of August, to increase winter hardiness - fertilizers that do not contain nitrogen. The ratio of mineral fertilizers and water used for top dressing is 1-2: 1000 (solution potash fertilizers should be even weaker).

Sometimes (more often clay soils) leaves may also turn yellow as a result of the predominant intake of aluminum ions instead of iron in plants. A 2-3 summer watering with iron chelate will usually restore the green color.

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Rhododendron is a shrubby plant with a spiral leaf arrangement and collected in an inflorescence pink flowers. For normal development, the formation of beautiful and lush flowers, protection from pests, it is recommended proper nutrition organic or mineral fertilizers produced in early spring and mid-summer.

For a long time, there was a consensus that mineral fertilizers are generally not suitable for this genus of plants. Sometimes, gardeners decided to introduce organic matter in the form of decomposed manure. Over time, experiments were carried out on the mineral nutrition of rhododendrons, during which conclusions were drawn that to obtain high-quality planting material impossible without them.

Signs of a Nutrient Deficiency

The first sign of a lack of nutrients in a plant is a change in the color of the leaves and shoots. Saturated green color becomes light or yellow-green, shine disappears. If the plant still does not receive vitamins, minerals and water, then such conditions affect the growth, the laying of flower buds, the early and intensive fall of old leaves (August - September).

The only way to combat this disease is to feed the plants. It can be organic or mineral. At the discretion of the gardener, one of the types of tuks is fed annually, as a result of which there are changes in the development and growth of rhododendrons for the better.

Features of the root system. What tuki can't be used?

A feature of the root system is the presence of mycorrhiza - a fungus that helps the plant grow and develop on acidic soils, limited in the amount of mineral nutrients (it is in such soil that the bush likes to grow). Without mycorrhiza, seed germination is also impossible, but it is he who determines the basic conditions for fertilizing and top dressing. Fertilizer solutions should not consist of chlorine-containing elements, since mushrooms will die from such fertilizer.
When growing a shrub, check the acidity of the soil in the spring. If the pH value (pH) is in the range of 4.5–5.5 units, then the diet should be changed using more acidic fertilizers.

Important! Lime, dolomite flour- fertilizers that can alkalize the soil. Top dressing with these nutrient solutions is not recommended due to a decrease in the acidity of the soil. The result may be the appearance yellow spots on the leaves.

Another feature is the compact root system, so when planting the plant, it is recommended to lay a good drainage layer with loose soil and nutrient-rich fertilizers.

If during the first year of life, the rhododendron actively grows and develops in connection with correct fit, then in the following years it needs mandatory feeding, since the reserves of nutrients are gradually depleted in the soil and the level of acidity decreases. Due to the lack of fertilization, the plant may not throw out flower buds or die.

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Basic feeding rules

Types of fertilizers

Gardeners widely use organic fertilizers in the practice of feeding rhododendron. They are also called manure. But here you should also be careful, because fresh manure will not be beneficial, in best case- burn the plant, at worst - kill it. Only aged manure should be used, at least one year old. Only after that, organics will improve mechanical properties and improve soil nutrition.

Manure before introducing into the ground should be prepared in advance - diluted in water in a ratio of 1:15 and let it brew for several days.

Mineral fertilizers are another type of top dressing that promotes beautiful flowering and rapid growth rhododendron. In particular, apply:

• Phosphorus tuki, which also need to form a solution according to the proportions indicated on the package.
• Ammonium sulphate, magnesium, potassium. This type of top dressing is great for rhododendrons, as it changes the pH value down.
• Nitrogen fertilizers. The most suitable period for their introduction is spring.
• Iron chelate. It is applied on clay soils in order to avoid yellowing of leaves.

All about mineral fertilizers for rhododendron

Usually, mineral fertilizers are concentrated suspensions, the advantage of which is minimal input into the soil and maximum saturation of nutrients. Since the favorite habitat of the rhododendron is acidic soil, then, accordingly, physiological fats must also be acidic so as not to disturb the reaction of the habitat.

Fertilizers commonly used by gardeners include:

• Ammonium sulphate, magnesium, potassium, calcium.
• Potassium phosphate.
• Potassium nitrate.
• Superphosphate.
• Potassium-phosphorus buffer solution. This is the most effective top dressing, since the composition contains the main macronutrients and substances that maintain the optimal pH level for rhododendrons (from 2 to 7 pH). Preparation: 10 l of water + 8 g of nitrate and monosubstituted potassium phosphate.
• Solutions mineral salts. Their input is possible with a single cultivation of bushes. But with a mass, it is recommended to replace the salt solution with mineral fertilizers in dry form. Their preparation consists in mixing superphosphate and potassium sulfate, 20 g each, as well as ammonium sulfate in a mass of 40 g. 80 g of mineral fertilizers will fall on 1 plant 1 meter high. The resulting dry mixture is scattered over the ground in early spring, immediately after the snow melts. The fat enters the soil layer during the rains, where it completely dissolves and nourishes the rhododendron. Re-treatment is recommended after the flowering phase, only the dose should be halved.

During the preparation of the solution, one should adhere to the ratio determined for top dressing: mineral fertilizers 1 part and water 2 parts. In the case of using a solution of potassium fertilizers, the concentration should be less - 1 part of top dressing and 1 thousand parts of water.

Given the peculiarities of our climate, where summer and autumn are quite wet and warm periods of the year, the rhododendron is able to throw out young shoots that do not have time to complete growth and freeze even at the slightest frost. To resist this process, experts recommend spraying the plant with sulfate or monosubstituted potassium phosphate. It should be a 1% solution. Processing is carried out after the completion of the flowering phase.

All about organic fertilizers for rhododendron

Organic fertilizers are the most affordable and cheapest way to feed a shrub, but provided that the gardener's place of residence is not in a large metropolis, where it is more difficult to get them.

Horse, pig, cow, bird dung, horn shavings and blood meal are natural top dressings that improve soil nutrition for shrubs and improve its physical properties.

most valuable in relation to organic fertilizers, are horn waste (flour, shavings). They contain a huge amount of nitrogen and phosphorus, and their decomposition period is longer, which affects the lower frequency of organic application.

As already noted, natural fertilizers should be introduced in liquid form. Depending on the type of organic fertilizer, the following solutions are prepared:

• Manure. Diluted in the ratio: 1 part of water + 15 parts of manure. After thorough mixing, leave for several days to start microbiological processes (active "bulbs" will appear on the surface).
• Dung slurry. There is no exact ratio, therefore, during the preparation of the solution, one should be guided by the color of the organic matter, diluting it with water. The suspension should take on a light brown color.
• Slurry + superphosphate. This tandem of mineral and organic fertilizer will increase the phosphorus content in the soil, which is necessary for the active growth of the plant and healthy development. The approximate ratio is 100 liters of slurry + 3–4 kg of superphosphate.
• Semi-decomposed manure. Such a fertilizer should not be diluted in liquid, but simply spread in spring or autumn over the surface of the soil under the bush. The thickness of the humus should be at least 5 cm.

Another method of proper feeding

At the first stage, in early spring, nitrogen fertilizers are applied in the ratio of 50 g of ammonium sulphate + 50 g of magnesium sulphate per 1 m2 of land. The second - phosphorus and potash, after the flowering of the shrub, in the ratio of 20 g of potassium sulfate + 20 g of superphosphate + 40 g of ammonium sulfate per 1 m2 of land.

This method is used to grow rhododendrons, as in open ground, as well as closed.

In conclusion, it can be noted that the choice of fertilizers and the methods used for feeding rhododendrons are at the discretion of the gardener. Depending on the availability of fertilizers, both organic and mineral can be used. In any case, for attentive and proper care, the bush plant will answer beautiful flowers with lush caps and transparent green leaves.

How to care for rhododendron

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A very popular decorative item in the west garden plant- rhododendron - began to win the hearts of Russian summer residents. This is actually an unusually spectacular shrub (rarely a small tree), the flowers of which are quite capable of competing even with roses in beauty. There are simply a huge number of varieties of rhododendrons. Most of them are preferably planted in the garden in April. Read on to learn how this operation is performed, as well as what care for rhododendrons is in spring.

Varieties of rhododendrons

This ornamental plant belongs to the heather genus. It prefers a humid, temperate climate. There are three main varieties of rhododendrons: deciduous, semi-evergreen and evergreen. The way to care for them is almost the same. All three of these species are well suited for the Russian climate. The only thing, when choosing seedlings, you should pay attention to the degree of their frost resistance. For gardens and orchards, it is worth purchasing only those varieties that can withstand temperatures as low as -30 ... -34 ° C.

planting material

Before proceeding to figure out how to plant a rhododendron in the spring, let's figure out how to choose the right variety. Most often, Russian gardeners grow rhododendrons of the Northern Lights, Rustica and KnapHill-Exbury series on their plots. The Japanese species of this shrub is also very good for our climate. Great solution there will also be a choice of almost any variety of Finnish selection. Dutch rhododendrons are practically not suitable for the Russian climate.

Quite often, in the gardens of domestic owners of suburban areas, you can see plants from the group of Katevbinsky hybrids. The flowers of such rhododendrons are not too large and not particularly bright. However, a lot of them bloom on the branches. At the same time, bushes can reach a diameter of 1.4 m and a height of 4 m. The main advantage of such rhododendrons is unpretentiousness and resistance to low temperatures.

Landing area

The question of how to properly plant a rhododendron in the spring comes down, among other things, to choosing the most suitable site for it. When deciding where exactly this will grow, you need to consider that these plants:

• Cannot tolerate direct sunlight. This is especially true for evergreen varieties.
• They love acidic soils. On neutral rhododendrons they will hurt and will not give abundant flowering. These plants do not tolerate alkaline soils categorically. No, even the most thorough care for rhododendrons in spring, summer and autumn will not give results in this case.
• They grow well in moist soils, but they do not tolerate stagnant water.
• They can freeze if in winter the surface of the earth above the roots is not covered with a thick layer of snow.

Thus, in order for the plant to feel comfortable on the site, the planting of rhododendron in spring or at any other time of the year should be carried out under the spreading crowns of tall trees, in an unflooded place with high snow cover in winter period time. Very often these decorative bushes also placed next to the fence. You should not choose an open place or corner of the house for planting rhododendron. strong wind this ornamental shrub also does not tolerate.

By choosing the right site, you can grow lush beautiful shrubs with bright showy colors without any extra hassle. If the place was initially chosen unsuccessfully, you should not be upset. You can always perform a procedure such as a rhododendron transplant. Spring is the best time to do this. But you can move the bush in the fall, and even in the summer. Transplant rhododendrons withstand very well.

Preparatory work

Under the acquired seedlings in the selected area, they dig a hole 40 cm deep and 70 cm wide. Drainage is laid on its bottom. In very dry areas, sometimes a hole for a rhododendron, on the contrary, is covered with a thin layer of clay, which allows moisture to be retained at the roots.

Ordinary garden soil is completely unsuitable for these plants. The soil taken out of the pit is removed. Instead, a mixture of completely decomposed cow dung (3: 1) is used. In this case, the question of how and with what to fertilize rhododendrons in the spring, in the first 2-3 years, will not be faced by the owners of the site. Feeding is not required.

You can also use a mixture of blueberries, half-rotted pine bedding, coarse sand and leafy soil (1:3:1:1) to fill the roots. To increase the nutritional value of the soil in the latter case, when planting, it is advisable to add a bucket of decomposed compost to the pit.

How to plant rhododendron in spring

If the seedling was purchased in a container, it is lowered for a day in warm water. This is necessary in order for the root lump to get wet. Some vendors plant rhododendrons in containers that are too tight. In this case, a dense crust of dead roots forms on the surface of the clod from all sides. It must be removed or at least cut through in several places. Otherwise, young roots will not break through it, and the plant will receive few nutrients.

Actually planting rhododendron in the spring is as follows:

• The plant is lowered into the prepared hole.
• Backfilling is carried out in such a way that its root collar is slightly above the soil surface.
• The rhododendron planted in this way is mulched with peat or needles and watered abundantly.

Second landing method

So, we have figured out how to plant a rhododendron in the spring. The technique described above is used by Russian gardeners quite often. However, it has one major drawback. The soil under the rhododendrons, upon contact with the adjacent soil, as a result of various kinds of natural processes, begins to leach over time. And this is very harmful for plants. You have to either take any measures to acidify the soil, or even perform an operation such as transplanting a rhododendron (in spring or autumn). Therefore, the hosts summer cottages often arrange special high beds for rhododendrons. In the selected area, the soil is removed to a depth of 30 cm. Next, wooden sidewalls are installed along the perimeter of the hole. Small pebbles are poured at the bottom of the resulting "box" for drainage. most high bed fill with prepared acidic soil mixture. The actual landing is carried out in the usual way.

When to fertilize

Now let's figure out how to feed rhododendrons in the spring. This ornamental shrub needs to be fertilized very carefully. For the first time, top dressing is done for 2-3 years of plant life. In early spring, a mixture of ammonium and potassium sulphate with superphosphate is added to the near-stem circle at the rate of 2:1:1. On the square meter should take about 80 g of this top dressing. Old plantings can be additionally fertilized with organic matter. It is best to use rotted manure or compost in the amount of one bucket per bush. Mullein majority experienced gardeners fertilizing rhododendrons is not advised.

Additional feeding

In late May - early June, the second feeding of rhododendrons is carried out. In the spring, thus, the bushes are fertilized twice. The second time, the same mineral mixture, but in smaller quantities (about half).

The next time fertilizers are applied to the soil in the summer - in July. In this case, phosphorus-potassium top dressing is also used in summer and is not used in autumn. Such fertilizers cause increased shoot growth due to the development of flower buds.

Caring for rhododendrons in spring

They remove the shelter from the rhododendrons after overwintering immediately after the positive temperature is established on the street. This operation must be performed on a cloudy day. Immediately frame the shoots of this ornamental plant not exposed to sunlight. It is advisable to even leave the shelter on the south side for a while.

In order for the earth to thaw, and the roots begin to intensively absorb nutrients, the mulch from the near-stem circle must be raked out. It is impossible to allow melt water to linger at the trunk for a long time. It also needs to be pulled out. Further, according to the method described above, rhododendrons are fed. In the spring, after the melt waters come down, the plants begin to be watered periodically. In this case, only warm, sun-warmed water should be used.

Pruning of rhododendrons in the spring is usually not done, since they do not tolerate this operation very well. If you want to give the bush a round or oval shape, the branches in the right places are shortened in two seasons - in the first year on one side, in the second - on the other.

In evergreen varieties, after wintering, some leaves may turn brown. They need to be deleted, because they will not be restored. Frozen shoots are also cut off.

Rhododendrons are quite hardy plants, and even if it seems to you that the bush is completely frozen, you should not rush to remove it. The plant needs to be watered abundantly for some time. And then, quite possibly, new shoots will appear on it. The most unpretentious varieties after an unsuccessful wintering are completely restored by autumn. How to feed rhododendrons in the spring, you already know. Apply a little mineral fertilizer under the bush. This will help him gain strength and cope with damage.

Irrigation Features

Thus, the care of rhododendrons in the spring consists in abundant feeding and watering. The last operation should be carried out correctly. If the soil under the rhododendrons is constantly moistened plain water, after a few years it will begin to leach. To prevent this, use (half a glass per bucket) or citric acid(4 g). On hot spring days, plants need not only to be watered, but also sprayed.

Transfer to a new place

Sometimes it happens that the plant for some reason withers and blooms poorly. In this case, you can try to transfer it to more appropriate place. The question of how to transplant a rhododendron in the spring is not at all complicated. This procedure is performed like this:

• The plant is undermined from all sides, trying not to damage the roots.
• They take out the bush and transfer it to a previously prepared hole.
• Sprinkle the roots with acidic soil mixture so that the neck remains on the surface.
• Mulch the plant, water it and shade from the south side.

If everything is done carefully, transplant rhododendrons may not even notice.

So, we have found out how a plant such as rhododendron is cared for in the spring. Top dressing, pruning and watering are mandatory procedures at this time of the year. This plant is not particularly whimsical, but it is still necessary to follow certain rules when growing it. If not violate required technologies(properly prepare the soil, fertilize in time and irrigate with acidified water), the bushes will delight the eyes of the site owners with lush flowering for many years.

Following several important recommendations, you will ensure that rhododendrons will definitely take root in the garden. Due to the huge variety of species, planting and care may vary somewhat. But they are still united by common methods of cultivation.

The best time to plant rhododendrons is in spring. During the summer months, the plants will take root and get stronger. When choosing seedlings, do not chase older plants. It is better to get a baby who will take root faster in a new place. Most often, deciduous and evergreen plants are on sale.

Choosing a place to land

The best place for rhododendron will be partial shade. Plants should receive sunlight, at least half a day. Rhododendrons feel good when trees grow nearby or buildings are located. This will additionally protect the seedlings from strong winds. In the open sun, rhododendrons will not be comfortable.

The soil

An important component of success is the preparation of the soil. Rhododendrons do not tolerate clay, heavy, damp places. Therefore, it is so necessary to properly prepare the landing hole. The size of the hole depends on the size of the root system. Experts advise a depth of about 50 cm. But it would be more correct to focus on the root ball. The hole is dug 20 - 35 cm deeper than the height of the root ball and 10 - 25 cm more than its width. Rhododendrons have a superficial root system, and it is very important to put drainage (expanded clay, coarse sand, broken brick, fine gravel) at the bottom of the pit, the layer of which is at least 20 cm.

The soil for filling the pit is prepared separately. Such a mixture is suitable: leafy soil (3 parts), softwood bedding from the forest (1 part) and peat (2 parts), you can also use small coniferous bark. About 60 - 70 g of mineral fertilizer per pit is added to the mixture. Fertilizers should not contain chlorine and calcium. You can use the fertilizer "Kemira wagon" (now it has a different name, "Fertika"). When planting, care must be taken not to deepen the root neck of the rhododendron. It is necessary to plant a plant as it sat in a pot. Planting is allowed 2 - 3 cm deeper, taking into account the draft of the plant.

Care

With a good dressing of the planting pit, rhododendrons can do without additional dressings for two years. In the future, two main nutrient top dressings are introduced annually. The first - in early spring in a dry form. It includes urea (nitrogen, 2 parts), superphosphate (1 part) and potassium sulfate (1.5 parts). Large doses of superphosphate are dangerous for rhododendrons. Phosphorus inhibits the absorption of iron, important element in the development of plants, which becomes noticeable on the leaves (chlorosis).

The second time in liquid form, a complex fertilizer is applied. It is desirable that the nitrogen content in it be low. It is better to feed in small concentrations. Extra salt rhododendrons do not accept.

In dry weather, plants need watering, spraying. Rhododendrons love wet air. After rains or heavy watering, you can loosen the ground around the roots. This should be done carefully, not deep, so as not to tear the roots. the best way out is mulching with peat, forest needles, sawdust.

Worldwide.

Rhododendron (Rhododendron) - the largest genus in the heather family (Ericaceae), named after the Greek words "rhodon" ("rose") and "dendron" ("tree") This genus includes about 1300 species and approximately 30 thousand varieties of evergreen, semi-evergreen and deciduous shrubs and trees.

The interest of gardeners in rhododendrons and azaleas is due to the decorativeness of their foliage and the variety of forms of bushes, and most of all -. Plant lovers are fascinated by the splendor and abundance of white, pink, purple, purple, red flowers, collected in umbellate inflorescences, reminiscent of an exquisite bouquet.

Depending on the species and variety, the flowers of rhododendrons and azaleas differ in size (from 1-1.5 cm to 6-10 cm in diameter) and shape (wheel-shaped, funnel-shaped, bell-shaped and tubular). There are rhododendrons with fragrant flowers.

The autumn dress of leaves in some deciduous species of rhododendrons is not inferior in beauty to bright decoration.

There is a misconception among gardeners about the difficulty of cultivating these plants. However, in central Russia it is no more difficult to breed or. The main thing when growing rhododendrons is to observe a few simple ones that are common to this culture. When choosing these plants for your garden, keep in mind that only are suitable for the climatic conditions of central Russia.

Choosing a place in the garden for planting rhododendron

For planting rhododendron, you should choose the most suitable place in the garden, taking into account biological features of this type. Therefore, before purchasing a plant you like and planting a seedling.

The lighting conditions of the selected plant should be approximately the same as in natural environment his habitat.
The most suitable place for rhododendron in terms of lighting conditions can be considered a place where there will be an open sky above the planted bushes (which will provide better access to rainfall and light plants), and at noon they will be covered by a scattered shadow from other plants. Perfect option for rhododendron - a rare pine forest or clearing located between tall pines.

Rhododendrons can be planted near other trees that have deep roots. For example, near oak or larch.
Tree species with a root system close to the surface (linden, maple, chestnut, poplar, willow, elm, alder) that deprive the rhododendron of moisture and nutrition are not suitable for proximity to the rhododendron, because of which it develops poorly and may die. Therefore, in the event of a forced planting of rhododendron in the immediate vicinity of unwanted trees, isolation from their roots should be provided. The feeding zone of the rhododendron is isolated with the help of roofing felt, polyethylene or other materials.

For growing rhododendrons, a place is suitable on the north side of the building, where the sun illuminates the plants in the early morning and afternoon.

When determining a place for planting rhododendrons, care must be taken to protect the bushes from the prevailing winds throughout the year, which is very important for this crop. In the open areas of the garden, rhododendrons (especially evergreen species) suffer in winter not so much from frost as from the withering effect of the wind.

Especially undesirable is the placement of rhododendrons near the corners of buildings, where strong drafts are hosted, as well as in free spaces between buildings.
Reliable wind protection for rhododendrons can be provided by the walls of buildings, solid fences, hedges and plantings. coniferous trees.

It is better to plant rhododendrons on an elevated place in the garden, where there is no spring stagnation of water.

Planting a rhododendron

Having chosen a suitable place in the garden for the rhododendron, you can begin to prepare the seedling for planting.
The distance between the bushes of tall species of rhododendron is 1.5-2.0 m, medium-sized - at least 1.2 m, undersized - 0.5-0.7 m.

Rhododendrons for good growth and lush flowering requires loose, acidic soil with a high content. Lime, dolomite, ash and other materials or fertilizers that shift the soil pH to the alkaline side should not fall into the root nutrition zone.

The root system of rhododendrons is quite compact, so it is enough to dig a hole 40-50 cm deep (excluding the thickness of the layer of drainage materials). The width of the hole depends on the size of the mature plant. For example, for large bushes (Ketevbinsky rhododendron, yellow rhododendron), the pit should be at least 80 cm wide.

If the garden soil is clayey, then it is necessary to arrange drainage for the rhododendron seedling - for this, a drainage layer (gravel or broken brick) of about 10 cm is poured into the bottom of the pit.
The planting hole is then filled with a suitable substrate.

Substrate preparation is the most important component successful cultivation rhododendrons. It should be remembered that in nature, rhododendrons grow on acidic, humus-rich, loose, air- and water-permeable soils. Such requirements are best met by a mixture of leafy soil, high-moor peat, decay of coniferous trees (3:2:1).
You can use a substrate consisting of only equal parts of high-moor peat and coniferous litter (pine or spruce).
Experts recommend the following composition of the substrate for planting rhododendron:
- sphagnum or heather earth (from under coniferous plants);
- humus or mature;
- part of the garden soil;
- cow dung(rotted is better);
- coniferous litter;
- fertilizer "Kemira-universal" (100 g).

The root ball of rhododendron taken out of the pot should be well saturated with water before planting. If it is dry, it is immersed in water and wait for the air bubbles to stop emitting.

A rhododendron bush is planted in a hole filled with substrate to the same depth as before.
When planting, you can not cover the root neck of rhododendrons with earth! Because of this, the plants stop flowering and eventually die.

We take out a rhododendron seedling with a closed root system from the container, carefully straighten the roots (we cut very long ones).
We compact the substrate in the landing pit. After planting is completed, water the rhododendron, even in the rain. After planting the rhododendron, it is advisable to mulch the soil.

Mulching trunk circle rhododendron is mandatory, this is a mandatory technique for this culture. Peat, coniferous litter, or a dry leaf (best of all oak) is suitable as mulch. It is undesirable to use maple leaves and horse chestnut, they quickly decompose and have an alkaline reaction. You can mix peat with sawdust.
Mulch helps to retain moisture in the soil, protects the roots from overheating in the heat, and from freezing in winter. Mulch suppresses the growth of weeds; rotting, it increases the content of humus and acidity of the soil. The layer of mulch should be at least 5 cm. When mulching the near-trunk circle of rhododendron, the root neck should not be covered.

The first time after planting, a rhododendron seedling for better rooting should often be watered in small portions (3 liters of water per young plant). Then water according to the weather. AT dry time It is better to water the rhododendron daily. Also, in the dry period, you can pour over a bush of rhododendron "head over" - over the leaves, but do not do it in the sun.

A young seedling of rhododendron (2-3 years old) has a small root ball, so when planted immediately in an open place, it will suffer from a lack of moisture due to the rapid drying of the topsoil. It is better to first plant such a young plant in some protected shaded place, in a hole with a diameter of 30 cm and a depth of 20-25 cm. And after 2-3 years, transplant, as expected, the grown rhododendron to a permanent place.
Rhododendrons and azaleas perfectly tolerate transplantation up to the age of 5-6 years.

The great advantage of rhododendrons is the possibility of planting or transplanting them in the garden at any time of spring, summer and autumn due to the compact fibrous root system.
When planting small rhododendrons in autumn, light cover with spruce branches is desirable (do not cover with earth).

Caring for rhododendrons and azaleas

Rhododendrons do not need pruning. If desired, you can form a bush: pluck out the growth point on the branches, to the leaves, so that the rhododendron bushes better.

In the photo: frost-resistant azaleas varieties "Northern Hi-Lights", "Klondyke", "Feuerwerk"

Top dressing of rhododendrons

Properly planted rhododendrons do not need additional top dressing during several years. However, if you want to accelerate the onset of the first flowering (or achieve more abundant flowering), then fertilizer is applied.
Fertilizers containing chlorine and lime are not suitable for feeding rhododendrons.

Rhododendrons are fed 2-3 times per season, starting in early spring and ending in mid-July.

There are various liquid and granular fertilizers designed specifically for rhododendrons. They should be applied according to the instructions on the packaging.
You can use conventional mineral fertilizers that have an acidic reaction: ammonium nitrate, urea, superphosphate, potassium sulfate. Their concentration should not exceed 1:1000 (and potassium - even lower).

From organic fertilizers for rhododendrons, one can recommend old half-rotted cow dung, which is applied on top of the soil in spring or autumn. In this case, it is necessary to monitor the pH of the soil. It is undesirable to use horse and pig manure, as well as bird droppings, as they increase the pH of the soil.

Azaleas and rhododendrons are very much appreciated by monthly watering with sour water, infused with ordinary ones. To obtain such an infusion, you will need five lemons per 5 liters of water: squeeze the fruits (throw the squeezed lemons into the water too) and let stand for 5-6 hours. Next, pour 2.5 liters of this acidified water under one bush of a large rhododendron or 1.5 liters under a small bush (up to 1 m tall).

Approximate feeding scheme for rhododendron:
- 1 top dressing - early in the spring;
- 2 top dressing - before flowering;
- 3 top dressing - 2-3 weeks after flowering (but no later than mid-August).
In the spring - top dressing of rhododendrons with a divorced mullein.
In summer - the introduction of mullein with the addition of potassium and phosphorus. Please note that already from the beginning of August, rhododendrons need to be prepared for winter, reducing the amount of nitrogen in fertilizers.
late autumn– the introduction of phosphorus and potassium.

Proper planting and competent care of rhododendrons and azaleas is the key to their endurance, safe wintering and excellent flowering.