Ways of beds in the garden. Do-it-yourself high beds: step by step we make beds from boards in the country

Growing plants in the country is not an easy task that requires knowledge and a responsible approach. To improve the site and provide favorable conditions for the development of vegetable and other crops, beds are used. Find out their types and features of the organization with your own hands.

If you plan to organize beds in the country with your own hands, familiarize yourself with the features of the process. First, understand the concept: the bed is a partially isolated small one, on which, under suitable conditions, you can grow different crops, providing the right individual care.

When organizing beds, several points are taken into account:

The location depends on the specific crop being grown. Some plants require good lighting, while others feel better in shading. When choosing a location, you need to take into account the relief of the site. If the place is located in a lowland, moisture will accumulate in it, which is unacceptable for some cultures. When placing, ensure free access for convenient and unhindered care. To do this, do not place the beds far from water sources and do not arrange them at short distances from each other, otherwise it will be problematic to walk between them.
The form is determined by the preferences of the owner of the cottage. It can be standard rectangular or square, but it is possible to organize beds with unusual shapes in the form of figures. The territory also affects the shape, because the beds should organically fit into it.
What plants will be grown? They need individual care, taking into account the characteristics of a particular species, so the characteristics of the culture affect the choice of location in the country, the size of the beds. And some vegetables do not get along, so they need to be planted separately at a considerable distance.
Skills. If you are planning to organize beds on the site for the first time and do not have the knowledge, choose unpretentious crops and beds that are easy to arrange. If you decide to create complex designs, you risk making mistakes and reducing or spoiling the crop.

There are several types of beds, and they should be considered in detail and separately.

Bed-box

A box-bed is a convenient and popular method of arranging a garden that allows you to create a separate isolated area for a particular crop, giving the area a neat, aesthetic and well-groomed appearance.

You can make a bed-box by preparing the place and fencing it with shields. To mark the boundaries and arrange the walls, sheets of polycarbonate or plastic, boards, slate (wave, flat) are used. It is advisable to choose a material that is practical and resistant to moisture, able to serve one season and maintain strength.

Do-it-yourself organization includes several stages:

Border designation. Draw them or arrange the pegs, taking into account the shape and size of the beds.
Wall installation. They are placed in the ground, in which furrows are preliminarily prepared. The soil must be compacted to ensure the stability and strength of the structure.
Fill in the earth and organic matter, alternating layers.
Plant your plants.

Note! Preparing for the winter of beds-boxes involves their collection. In the spring, the structure is erected, the soil is loosened and planted with the selected crop.

Garden beds with drainage

Drainage beds are relevant and necessary if the garden is located in a lowland, and clay or swampy. Excess and stagnant water are detrimental and provoke decay of the root system, so it is necessary to ensure timely constant drainage and optimal gas exchange.

To organize drainage with your own hands, follow the instructions:

Designate a landing site.
Remove a layer of soil with a thickness of 50 to 60 cm.
Sand is laid at the bottom of the formed pit, the thickness of the layer of which will be at least 20-25 cm.
Lay sawdust, humus and a layer of soil suitable for growing the selected plant on top of the sand.

High

High beds should be made in a low-lying or heavily swampy area: raising the soil will prevent stagnation of moisture and ensure timely drainage. Suitable option for gourds, potatoes, zucchini. The height can be from 30-35 cm to 70-80.

Step-by-step device of a high bed in the garden:

Prepare the box. It is possible to build it from plastic, boards, bricks, metal.
A metal mesh is installed at the bottom of the structure, providing protection against rodents. A geotextile is laid on top of it, preventing the germination of weeds.
Lay drainage, including expanded clay, broken brick, pebbles. The thickness of the layer is not less than ten centimeters.
Prepare the soil by disinfecting it and treating it from pests. Fill the box with soil, filling most of it and leaving sides about 5 cm high.

Good to know! High beds can be organized without boxes using bulk trapezoids or ridges. A compost layer is laid on the soil, which ensures the rise of the soil. Next, the earth is poured, landing is carried out. But the beds will last only one season, because during the winter they will sag under the weight of snow and get wet when it melts. If bear insects are common in the region, it is better not to use compost: pests quickly populate it and multiply, destroying the crop. The rise is provided by an embankment of soil.

vertical

A vertical garden bed will save space in the garden and will be an excellent solution if the site has a small area. But the option is suitable for crops with a not very developed root system: strawberries, lettuce, cucumbers, herbs, tomatoes.

For organization, it is allowed to use boxes, special racks or containers. You can arrange a vertical bed from improvised materials by making containers from plastic bottles and placing them on a homemade frame assembled from boards or a metal profile.

French

In 2018, beautiful and aesthetic French beds are relevant. Distinctive features are laconic geometric shapes, strict planted rows and paths between plantings. Fences can be made of finishing materials (decking boards, paving slabs), bricks. You can do it by planting leaf lettuce around the perimeter of the beds, a low-growing type of greenery. Elevate zones if the ground is waterlogged or the site is frequently flooded.

English

Fans of original ideas will appreciate the English beds, which allow a mixture of cultures. , a garden area with trees and a vegetable garden do not have strict boundaries and form a single landscape design. One site may include flower beds, fruit crops, vegetable plantings.

Spaces are left between the beds for free movement and comfortable care. The territory should not look neglected and abandoned, so carefully look after the garden, make sure that the land is free of weeds and fence the beds around the perimeter, for example, with stones or bricks (it can be irregular).

lazy

Lazy beds are suitable for beginners or busy gardeners, as they do not require complex organization and time-consuming preparation. No need to prepare recesses and dig the soil to a great depth. It is enough to weed the ground, freeing it from weeds, slightly loosen it, then land. The spaces between the bushes are filled with mulch, which ensures the preservation of moisture and the prevention of its rapid evaporation, as well as protection from weeds. This greatly simplifies care and helps to collect good crops.

Advice! Lazy beds are ground and devoid of fences or raised and surrounded by borders.

Smart

Smart beds are not only original and beautiful, but also practical and productive. This method of organization will create optimal growing conditions and increase yields.

It is not easy to make smart beds on the site, since you need to raise them and fill them not with ordinary soil, but with special mixtures suitable for specific crops, consisting of compost, fertilizers, clean nutrient soil, organic matter. Landings are protected by reinforced high sides. It is advisable to raise the site itself in order to protect it from stagnant water and pest attacks.

Warm

Warm beds will allow you to get an early harvest and will be a good alternative to greenhouses. Planting heat will be provided by organic matter, which releases energy in the process of decomposition.

Arrangement is carried out at the end of autumn and includes several steps:

Remove a layer of soil about 50 centimeters thick. You can also make a box and install it in the prepared recess. A metal mesh can be laid at the bottom of a pit or container to protect against moles.
Lay sawdust preliminarily scalded and treated with a solution of potassium permanganate on the bottom. This layer should have a thickness of at least 15-17 cm.
Lay organic matter consisting of fallen leaves, turf, bird droppings or manure. Compact this layer to a thickness of 15 centimeters.
Lay organic matter that rots quickly, such as prepared compost. This layer is approximately 10 cm thick.
Lay a nutrient mixture that includes six parts of peat and a part of sand and sawdust. Add here a tablespoon of ash and superphosphate, a teaspoon of potassium sulfate, urea, zinc sulfate. The fertile substrate has a thickness of 20 cm.

With the first rays of the spring sun, organics will release heat, warming the soil up to 40-45 degrees, which will allow crops to be planted much earlier. So you can grow plants with a small root system: cucumbers, strawberries, herbs, radishes.

garden fences

Fencing will help to equip beautiful and neat beds and zone the summer cottage. Try to organically fit them into the landscape design and do it correctly in order to protect the plants from negative influences and create an aesthetic appearance of the garden.

Different materials are used for fencing: polycarbonate, slate, metal, wood (boards or logs), stone, rods and pegs. Fans of interesting ideas use improvised means: plastic and glass bottles, car tires, old hoses.

Below are the characteristics of the main types of materials used for the organization of fences.

metal

Metal fences are quite durable, but they can be exposed to moisture for a long time and become covered with rust, which will not only worsen the appearance of the sides, but also negatively affect the composition of the soil. Thin metal is subject to deformation after mechanical stress. Metal also heats up in the sun.

Galvanized

Galvanized fences have good characteristics: they do not corrode, serve for a long time, retain their properties, are highly durable and resistant to attacks by pests and fungi. The beds will be reliably protected from wind and other natural phenomena, pests. Ready-made fences made of galvanized steel are light, easy to assemble, and have different shades.

A big minus is the high cost of structures. They also quickly warm up and transfer heat to the surrounding soil, raising the temperature of the soil and negatively affecting the root system.

Plastic

Plastic fencing is a modern solution. They have a small weight, are not attacked by pests and high humidity, serve for a long time and have an affordable price. Light plastic will not get very hot in the sun. But the fences are subject to mechanical stress.

Approaching responsibly to the organization of the beds in the country, you will equip the garden, ennoble the territory and get an excellent harvest. Good luck to all gardeners!

The yield of plants depends not only on the time of planting seeds, their germination, but also on the place of planting and the height of the embankment. We hope that our tips on building beds in the country with your own hands will be useful not only for beginner gardeners.

Location selection

Some vegetable crops, for example, peas, dill, sorrel, lettuce, can grow in partial shade. But most plant species are not able to fully mature with a lack of light.

Therefore, when placing beds on a garden plot, they are primarily guided by their illumination - it is desirable that they be warmed up by the sun from the very early morning until 6-7 pm.

Decorative garden plantings

When choosing a landing site, the following requirements must be taken into account:

1 Do not plant plants in lowlands or on northern slopes, where the soil freezes deeper than on flat areas; productivity in these places will be low; plus the water in this place will constantly stagnate, which can lead to root rot

2 The site should not have a strong slope, otherwise the water will simply drain from it during irrigation, and the plants will not receive moisture.

3 There should not be large trees, buildings and fences near plantings that can shade plants

4 It is desirable to arrange them north to south, so that during the day they are evenly illuminated by the sun

5 For growing vegetables for a family of 3-4 people, about 1 acre is enough; the rest of the territory can be planted with potatoes, berries and flowers

6 To make the plot look neat, try to make “correct” beds of the same width and length; standard dimensions - 3.5x0.8 m

7 Do not forget about the compatibility of plants: some of them do not get along well with each other

Dimensions

In principle, you can make a bed of any length - up to 10 m. Agree, such beds look original. But constantly bypassing them when watering is very inconvenient. It is better to prepare an embankment 3.5-4 m long. This size is considered optimal. Or break a long bed into two with a small path. This will greatly facilitate your movement around the site.

Standard width 0.8 m. Do not save space (!) and in no case make it wider. You may be able to reach the center of the bed when planting and scatter the seeds, but weeding will turn into a real torment. Don't believe? Experiment and prepare a small but wide mound. Believe me, next year you will lose the desire to make beds of this size.

A more compact version, only 0.45 m wide, is made for carrots. This culture does not like dense plantings - the sprouts should be well blown. For the same reason, try not to place tall plants next to carrots. Otherwise, you will significantly reduce its yield. On thickened plantings, it will grow small.

Shape and height

When decorating the site, we can decorate it with beds of various shapes, from standard rectangular to triangular, trapezoidal or oval. There are plenty of ideas for unusual beds on the net. The main thing is that it is convenient to approach them from either side for watering and weeding.

The height of the embankment depends on many factors, including the type of site. In most cases, it is enough to raise them to a height of up to 35-50 cm. This will be enough so that the roots of the plants do not rot. Too high beds - up to 0.8 m - are usually made in heavily swampy areas.

But such structures are very labor intensive. Plus, they will need to bring at least a couple of KAMAZ trucks of fertile soil to the site. For one small bed it will need at least half a ton.

Raising beds is often also required for growing heat-loving crops, for example, cucumbers. Indeed, in high beds, the earth warms up much faster. It is often impossible to get an early harvest without it.

Raise the beds sometimes and just for their own convenience

Caring for plants in this case is much easier. Just keep in mind that in beds of great height, the earth dries out much faster, so you will have to water the plants more often. Experts also advise raising a landing site in areas located in the shade. The optimal height of the embankment in this case is 50 cm.

To prevent water from rolling onto the path when watering, the bed should be slightly concave inward.

Arrangement of a high bed

A box for it can be made from improvised means: boards, plastic, metal or stones:

1 It is better to put a metal mesh at the bottom - it will protect the plants from the ubiquitous rodents.

2 Crushed stone, expanded clay or broken bricks are used as drainage. The thickness of this layer is 10-15 cm.

3 It is better to treat the prepared soil in advance with agents from pathogenic microbes and pests. If you do not want to use chemistry, mix the earth with a small amount of wood ash - it will protect the plants from harmful bacteria.

4 It is not worth filling the bed with soil up to the very sides - it will constantly spill out onto the path. It is necessary to leave about 5 cm.

Drainage

When a site is located in a lowland or swampy area, growing many types of crops on it becomes a problem. Vegetables and berries on it, if they ripen, then due to excess moisture, they quickly deteriorate during storage.

Their taste also changes - much less sugar accumulates in them. To prevent this from happening, take care of the drainage of the wetland.

Most gardeners know that cabbage, melons, zucchini and cucumbers require more moisture to grow than other crops. But it turns out that massive heads of garlic can also be grown only in areas rich in moisture. On dry land, even with abundant watering, it is rarely large.

For the above types of plants, drainage is not required (unless, of course, stagnant water in the beds is insignificant). The area for growing other crops is better to drain.

For the construction of multi-tiered beds, special boxes can be knocked out of wood. It is highly undesirable to use metal - it quickly heats up in the sun, and the earth in them will dry out even faster. If necessary, paint metal containers with light paint - light surfaces heat up less.

Often used for such structures and ready-made boxes, racks or containers of a suitable size. You can also place large containers filled with earth on the shelves.

lazy beds

Such embankments are used when planting a large number of plants. They have a small height and outwardly look like bulk trapezoids without the use of a box. True, such embankments will have to be made every season - they settle over the winter.

Make a shallow ditch in the area of \u200b\u200bthe path, throwing the earth onto the ridge. Level the soil with a rake. The bed is ready.

We repeat - the drier the land on the site, the lower the height of the embankment should be. In marshy areas, dig paths as deep as possible and make the bed higher. On sandy soil, you don’t even need to do this - just tread the paths well on the dug-up ground with your feet, thus marking the location of the paths.

Boxes for beds

Decorative option, limited by a box - a favorite technique of many gardeners. After all, caring for them (watering and weeding) is greatly simplified. The use of boxes is a good way to protect against soil erosion. In addition, the paths between them will always be clean, without streaks and puddles.

As a rule, the paths are covered with wood, tiles or concrete so that the grass cannot break through the ground.

Before proceeding with the installation of the box, the place for the beds must be prepared - dig up the ground, carefully removing all weeds. Carefully level it with a rake so that water during irrigation or rain can be evenly distributed over the entire surface.

When digging, it is necessary to capture the area a little more. Otherwise, the roots of perennial plants will again make their way out of the ground. Pulling them out from under the box will be problematic. It is better to pre-dig the neglected area twice in spring and autumn.

At one time, getting rid of the roots of perennial plants is simply unrealistic. To make the job easier, simply turn the sod over with a shovel so that the roots of the plants are above the ground. Gradually, they themselves will dry out under the rays of the sun and die.

Wooden box

Wooden box

The simplest wooden box is assembled from 4 long and 8 short boards of a suitable size. They are connected in pairs with the help of bars. Nails, screws and metal corners are used as fasteners.

You will also need 4 pegs or trimming reinforcement 0.6 m long - they are driven into the ground from the outside to enhance the strength of the structure. To make the bed perfectly even, its walls are aligned with the building level horizontally and vertically.

Stone or concrete box

Stone or concrete box

Such structures are characterized by high strength and long service life. However, they will cost a lot.

Plus, the process of building them takes a lot of time. Yes, and moving the garden bed will be a serious problem - the structure will have to be broken.

metal boxes

metal boxes

If you have waste metal at hand, you can make beds out of it. Such structures are lightweight and, if desired, they can be easily moved to another place. They are easily painted in any color, so they look quite decorative.

However, the creation of such products requires the ability to work with a welding machine. You can cut the metal at the nearest scrap metal collection point.

Slate fence

Slate fence

It is quite resistant to decay, even when buried in the ground and is able to last a long time.

The disadvantages of slate structures include increased fragility - when assembling and cutting them, high accuracy and accuracy are required.

Plastic structures

Plastic structures

If you have a few plastic panels left after repair, you can make a fence out of it. Bright, they favorably stand out against the background of plants.

Moreover, plastic is able to lie in the ground for an infinitely long time - it is not afraid of moisture. However, under the bright rays of the sun, this material quickly fades and loses color.

Mulching

Weeding often takes a lot of time from summer residents. If the site is large, this becomes a serious problem. You just have to spend the day and night in the garden.

To reduce the time spent on endless weeding, prepare the so-called smart beds. The principle of their manufacture is simple. To protect plants from weeds after planting, cover the gaps between the sprouts with sawdust, needles, straw, or dried last year's foliage of trees.

Mulch the soil and cover with a dark film. It is spread out before planting, making small holes for the plants. A transparent film is not suitable for these purposes - weeds will continue to develop with access to light.

It has been proven that mulching significantly (almost 30%) increases yields.

After all, the closure of the top layer of soil protects the fertile layer from weathering and rapid drying. Plus, under a layer of organic matter, beneficial microorganisms and earthworms multiply faster.

Using this method, even abandoned areas can be quickly put in order - it is enough to cover the land overgrown with weeds with mulch for a couple of years.

Unfortunately, in wetlands, mulching often leads to a sad result - covering the soil leads to stagnant water in the beds, and as a result, rotting of plants. But in this case, mulching can come in handy.

The only difference is that you should not cover the ground for the winter and early spring. Wait until the earth dries well.

Mulch should not be used during rainy seasons. If the summer turned out to be hot, with the help of mulch you will get rid of not only weeding, but also frequent watering. The moisture underneath will evaporate much more slowly. In wet areas, be sure to prepare drainage around the perimeter of the beds to drain its excess.

Warm beds

It is not so easy to achieve an early harvest in our climate. At the first return frosts, tender sprouts planted in open ground will simply die. Surviving plants will be stunted and diseased. The ideal outlet for growing in this case are warm beds.

They can be used for many types of crops: the first greens and radishes, heat-loving cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkins, eggplants, tomatoes, etc.

Consider the basic rules for creating warm beds and how to grow each of the crops on them:

1 They can rise above the ground or, on the contrary, be built below ground level.

2 They go deep into the ground by no more than 0.5 m. This is quite enough to protect the sprouts from spring frosts. At a greater depth, the plants will be in the shade and will be pulled.

3 Raise them to a height of up to 0.5-1 m. In principle, they can be made even higher - caring for them will only be simplified.

4 First, a drainage layer of fine gravel and sand is laid. You can replace it with broken bricks, but learn that over time this material can decompose under the influence of moisture.

5 The next layer is vegetable waste. The heat released during their decay will serve as natural heating. It is better to prepare such a bed in the fall, during the harvest. As a "warm layer" you can use cut tops or any weed grass left after weeding. The most important thing is that she does not have time to form seeds.

6 For cucumbers, pumpkins and zucchini, manure is more often used as a warm layer. When overheated, it heats up much more. For the same crops as tomatoes, manure, as well as pure humus, is contraindicated. Plants on it will only increase the green mass. You can simply not wait for a harvest on manure - the ovaries will immediately fall off. Therefore, to warm up the tomato, use ordinary vegetable waste.

7 The last layer is fertile land. It is poured with a thickness of at least 30 cm.

8 Novice gardeners sometimes complain that their neighbors have high yields on warm beds, but for some reason nothing grows in them. Indeed, if a layer of grass or manure is only a little “powdered” with earth, it will simply be impossible for the roots of the plant to gain a foothold in it. Yes, and nutrition for sprouts will obviously not be enough. Overripe plants serve only as a layer of insulation. Therefore, without a solid layer of earth, you will not achieve a harvest.

9 Next, arcs are placed above the bed, which are covered with a film. Covering material such as spunbond (agrofibre) should not be used for these purposes. It can be spread directly on the ground in case of returning frosts or used as additional shelter. Unlike polyethylene, agrofibre has many holes through which precious heat will freely escape.

Such a bed "works" for about 4 years. After its complete exhaustion, a new one is prepared, and rotted plants are used as fertilizer when digging up beds. For the first two years, the most heat-loving crops are planted on a warm bed - cucumbers, pumpkins, zucchini, eggplants, etc.

In the third or fourth year, any garden crops can be planted in this place - from carrots, beets, onions to potatoes.

When heat sets in, the plastic film is folded back on both sides in the daytime so that the plants are blown a little. Otherwise, they will simply “burn out” from the heat. At night, the plants are again completely wrapped in foil.

Read also:

Paths between the beds

French way of planting crops

French variant- one of the ways to decorate the site. Unlike traditional planting methods, such a garden always has a strictly symmetrical shape. Moreover, it is absolutely not necessary to make the beds rectangular. They can be in the form of rhombuses, ovals or semi-ovals, etc. The most important thing is that each of the segments be strictly symmetrical to the neighboring one.

As a rule, for the convenience of caring for crops, French beds are located at a certain height.
It is desirable (but not necessary) to plant plants also symmetrically. For example, radishes are located along the edge of all the beds, lettuce is in the center, and red cabbage is on the other side.

Unlike the French English do not require strict symmetry. The main emphasis in them is on the lawns, with which the site is decorated. Against the background of sown grass, plantings of even ordinary garden plants look like ornamental crops. In fact, it is a mixture of vegetable garden and flower garden.

The garden house with the English method of planting looks like a huge vertical bed. Climbing plants are planted near its walls. Pots and flowerpots of various shapes are placed along the building. Each of the plants is carefully cared for - despite the riot of vegetation, there is no smell of “wildness” here.

Before each owner of a backyard, summer cottage or garden plot, the question arises of the correct placement of the garden on his site. The very word "correct" suggests that there are certain rules, norms or mandatory principles according to which the garden should be equipped. And some general principles, of course, can be identified - but it is precisely some. This is due to the huge variety of conditions in which the sites are located, and besides, the personal preferences of the owners are of no small importance.

At all should not blindly copy someone else's experience, especially if this is experience gained in another soil-climatic zone. But what about? What should beginner gardeners do?

Choosing a place for the garden

Let's start with a question that inevitably arises when planning: where to place a garden on the site, what part of the total area to allocate for it. After the simplest calculation of the need for vegetables (see), it usually turns out that it is enough to allocate a plot for a garden about 3 acres. More or less - will depend on the composition of the family and the desire to experiment with any cultures.

Under the garden allocate the sunniest place, without shading on the south side. Unlike the garden, which is located on the northern slope, it is preferable for the garden southern exposure. This is the case if the garden is only a garden. The garden plot is subject to certain requirements:

high doses of fertilizers (both organic and mineral) are applied under vegetables;
provide good air permeability to soils, for which baking powders are introduced in the form of straw cutting, straw manure, coarse-grained river sand;
create optimal conditions for moistening, remove excess water through drainage or arrange watering with insufficient moisture;
protect the site from the prevailing winds by planting ornamental or fruit trees on the windward side, but so that there is no shading - all vegetables are photophilous.

Sometimes gardeners divide the total area into several plots according to this principle: the main crops with a large planting area are isolated in one array, and the green and spicy-aromatic ones are placed closer to the path and the building, so that you can easily cut a bunch of parsley or dill without running all over the dacha or backyard.

Recently it has become fashionable to arrange decorative vegetable garden. Here, vegetable crops also perform design functions, so they are already selected for their decorative qualities. But it's still exotic. If you are interested in the topic of an ornamental garden, read the articles on the principles of its organization from the list of recommended literature for the lesson.

It is undesirable to plant vegetables in the aisles of the garden, where there is shading, competition for water and nutrients, there is a danger of contamination of products with poisons used to protect the garden. Yes, and vegetables work best in open areas.

We place greenhouses and greenhouses

There are a lot of vegetable crops, and they are very diverse in their external characteristics and growing characteristics. The desire of the gardener to provide himself with early vegetables leads to the need to allocate an area for insulated soil. Now there is no problem in acquiring various greenhouses and greenhouses or materials for their independent construction.

In protected ground, heat-loving vegetable crops are grown in small quantities: tomatoes, pepper, eggplant, cucumber, vegetable marrow. To obtain early greenery in insulated soil, they are sown as compactors salad, dill, parsley and other herbs. To meet the need for early vegetables, 4-5 plants of each crop are usually sufficient.

The area under insulated soil is usually no more than 100 sq.m. But in areas with cool summers, growing heat-loving vegetables in the open field is problematic, and they are grown only under shelters. In this case, greenhouses are needed, and their area will already be higher - up to 300 sq.m and even more. Of course, it is better to grow unrelated crops separately, for example: cucumber with zucchini in one building, and tomatoes, peppers and eggplant in another. But if there are few plants, then it is difficult to implement, and not too necessary.

Dedicated to the features of growing vegetables in greenhouses next lesson- . There we will consider in detail all the important nuances.

We build beds

The beds are made in the spring, just marking the paths. The paths between the beds should provide free passage and the ability to get your hand from the path to the middle of the beds. As a rule, for this the track width should be not less than 40-50 cm. The length of the beds themselves can be arbitrary, and the width can be convenient for work: such that the hand can be freely reached a little further than the middle of the bed. This is necessary for manual work - sowing, weeding, harvesting.

Beds for individual crops (like greenhouses) are best placed with a long side from North to South- so the plants will be better lit during the day. The number of rows of plants in the beds is arbitrary.

Usually the beds are made rectangular shape. According to their device, they can be different. So, in the south they try to make them flush with the soil surface or even deepened, and in the center of the country and in the north - raised. The edges of the beds are usually not limited to the frame, but when arranging narrow ridges according to the Mittlider or warm steam beds, a frame is made of boards or flat slate, and other materials.

Various ways of arranging ridges: recessed or raised, in a frame, and so on - it is better to master gradually. For more information about what beds are, how to build them, what are the advantages and disadvantages of various options - read the articles from the reading list for this lesson.

Under large plants (with a large bush) or creepers make wide distances between rows - from 40 to 90 cm, and between small plants, on the contrary, the aisles are reduced to 15 cm or even less. The largest row spacings require pumpkins and climbing squash- more than 1.5-2 m;

wide aisles are needed for tomatoes, pepper, eggplant, bush squash, beans.
narrow aisles - for beets, carrots, green crops.

Schemes for placing plants on the beds:

roots- 6 cm between plants in a row and 10-15 cm between rows; it is also convenient to place most of green and aromatic plants;
nightshade support will be required for each bush; place them according to the scheme 50 × 50 or 70 × 70 cm;
early cabbage placed according to the scheme 40 × 40 cm;
late cabbage- according to the scheme 50 × 70 cm;
cucumber: when growing on a support, leave 25-30 cm between the bushes; when grown without a garter, 60-70 cm are left between plants, and row spacing is increased to 90-120 cm;
bush type squash placed after 40 cm;
climbing squash- after 70-120 cm.

Soil Requirements

The garden area should be fertile. Vegetables were traditionally grown in rural courtyards, where a lot of organic matter was introduced into the soil, but in modern garden plots there is a completely different situation, additional reclamation measures may be required - for example, when groundwater is shallow, drainage is arranged with excess water runoff into arranged reservoirs or wells.

Usually, beginners just need to fertilize in the fall:

organic(manure, humus, composts from organic waste) at the rate of 60-100 kg per 100 sq.m;
mineral complex where there is nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (azofoska, nitroammofoska, foskamid, autumn and others) - up to 5 kg per 100 sq.m.

Followed by dig up a plot as deep as possible, but taking into account the thickness of the fertile layer. On poor podzolic soils, instead of deep plowing, gradual plowing is carried out with a deepening of the arable horizon by 5-7 cm per year and composts from any kind of organic matter are used. Baking powders are needed only on heavy and floating soils.

Gives good results sowing perennial grasses(lucerne, clover, sainfoin) for 2-3 years and their plowing. Instead of perennial grasses, you can plow annual herbs as green manure. These can be mixtures based on barley or oats with vetch or peas. Before plowing the grass, it is necessary to grind and apply nitrogen-phosphorus fertilizers on top at the rate of 1-2 kg per hundred square meters.

Compost - good organic fertilizer

Fertilization of individual vegetable crops has its own peculiarities. So, organic matter (manure, humus, compost) is added under cucumber, zucchini, late and middle cabbage, and only humus or well-decomposed compost is added under tomato, pepper, eggplant. Only mineral fertilizers are applied under onions and root crops, early cabbage.

Dedicated to fertilizers and top dressings separate lesson: . You can also find more information in the reading list for this lesson.

What is crop rotation, why is it needed and how to organize it

You cannot grow the same crops every year in the same place. Specific pathogens accumulate in the soil, pests overwinter on plant residues, the soil is unilaterally depleted, harmful substances accumulate in it - decay products that are toxic to plants.

To avoid these negative consequences, scientists came up with crop rotation- scientifically substantiated alternation of cultures in time and territory. In small areas it is difficult to apply full-fledged crop rotations, here they are more often used fruit cycle- alternation over the years of some crops with others.

During fruit change, one group of crops changes to another in terms of nutritional requirements. It is better if, after the crops under which organics were introduced, there are crops that make good use of decomposed organics, and after them - crops with predominantly mineral nutrition.

For example, like this:

medium and late cabbage;
tomato;
carrot.

Or like this:

cucumber;
pepper, eggplant;
beet.

Required for some crops early harvestable predecessor. For example, only cucumber, zucchini and greens are suitable for winter garlic, since garlic is planted in the fall, and it is also necessary to prepare the soil for it. Perennial vegetable crops are grown in open areas, where they can be more than 3-5 years in one place.

Details about the organization of crop rotation (fruit rotation) in the garden, favorable and negative combinations of crops, their correct alternation and other nuances are discussed. in one of the next lessons: .

Organization of watering in the garden

Vegetables are demanding not only for soil fertility, but also for providing moisture. Even in regions that receive sufficient rainfall, there are times when irrigation is required. Therefore, the site should be water source in the form of a centralized water supply system, a well or a container for several tons of water.

If a ground water are located closer than 60-70 cm from the surface, it is better to arrange their removal outside the site or into a drainage well. In arid regions, it is necessary to take care of artificial irrigation, creating a supply of irrigation water on the site in containers or pools.

You can supply water to the vegetable plot with a hose, a stationary pipeline, or using a drip irrigation system. It is better to choose a reinforced or corrugated hose that is resistant to kinks, lightweight polypropylene pipes that are UV-resistant, free-flow low-pressure drip lines.

But with any method of irrigation, it is necessary to determine water quality. Here it is necessary to find out the degree of mineralization, the presence of toxic salts, the pH value. Analysis can be carried out in zonal scientific institutions for agriculture or laboratories that control the quality of drinking water.

If the water meets the requirements, then it can be safely used for irrigation, but if the water is excessively saline, or contains toxic salts, or is very hard, then it is better to collect and use rainwater, use filters (which is of course expensive) - in any case, use it less.

There is rule: the toxicity of water is the less pronounced, the higher the content of organic matter in the soil.

Determine landing time

Each crop is sown and planted at its own time. If possible, insulated soil is often used to extend the time for the crop to arrive: various types of greenhouses, greenhouses. Various films and non-woven materials are used as a translucent coating, and seedlings of heat-loving crops are planted in such facilities: tomatoes, peppers, eggplant, cucumber and zucchini, as well as such cold-resistant crops as early cabbage, cauliflower, Beijing - to obtain earlier products.

When using insulated soil, it is important that the seedlings are not only of high quality, but also certain varieties and hybrids, capable of recouping as much as possible the cost of structures and films.

Also, vegetables can be sown directly in open ground or planted seedlings. Green crops are usually sown first in the ground, followed by carrots, onions, beets, and then seedlings of heat-loving crops and cabbage are planted.

Selection of varieties- it's complicated. It is better to focus on the assortment recommended for a particular zone. There are many options and each has its pros and cons. We talked in detail about how to choose varieties of vegetables for your garden.

How to care for a vegetable garden

Garden care is loosening row spacing- usually after rains, waterings or fertilizing. As the plants develop, the loosening depth will first increase and then decrease so as not to damage the growing roots.

top dressing carried out to correct nutrition. It is better for them to use special brands of complex water-soluble fertilizers containing 5-7 trace elements. When applying fertilizers, the enclosed instructions are usually followed.

There is also a need for protection against pests, pathogens and weeds. The use of herbicides - weed control means in small areas is impractical. Still, they are not safe, and it is difficult not to damage the cultivated plants themselves. Manual weeding remain the most effective means of weed control.

Among plant protection products there are not only chemical, but also biological, and they should be given preference. But in the fight against especially dangerous diseases and pests, chemical protection should not be neglected. At the same time, it is necessary to strictly adhere to the regulations for the use of plant protection products, not to exceed the dose and not to shorten the waiting period - the time during which, after processing, it is impossible to work with plants and use products for food. This will be discussed in detail in one of the following lessons -.

Vegetable crops are divided into single collection and multi-collection. For multi-collection, continuous flowering and crop formation are characteristic. In crops such as tomato, pepper, eggplant, zucchini, cucumber, fruits are harvested as they reach removable maturity. Their yield increases with regular harvesting. Cabbage, root crops and onions are harvested once, when fully ripe. Many cultures practice a combination of periodic collections and one-time cleaning. In dill and lettuce, for example, you can first pick off part of the leaves, and at the end of the removable maturity, the whole plant.

Gardening is a fascinating business: as you master some issues, new, even more complex ones appear. This process is creative and akin to art.

For many, your own garden or summer cottage is not only an opportunity to grow your own vegetables, but also a kind of option for relaxation. Therefore, it is so important that the territory with your landings has. At the same time, you can decorate the plantings beautifully and give them a neat look with the help of different materials. Let's find out how to make original beds with your own hands, not like everyone else. Interesting ideas in our review will help you create a variety of designs.

DIY beds are not like everyone else: interesting ideas and tips for arranging them

The design of the beds in the garden depends on the selected materials. Photos of popular designs are presented in the article. The beds differ in the type of material used. To select a quality material, first decide on the purpose and shape of the structures. An important factor is the location of the landings.

Use borders for framing - practical and beautiful. Such barriers do not allow the soil to crumble, and also give the territory a well-groomed appearance. It's good rain.

In the video below you can see how you can make reliable enclosing elements:

When creating beds, use the following nuances:

the width of the beds can be 50-70 cm, the height is -30-60, and the distance between the paths is 40-50 cm;
the length of the beds depends on the area of \u200b\u200bthe personal plot, as well as on the volume of the crop;
before the construction of the beds, the marking of the landing area is carried out. At the same time, agrotechnical features of plants are taken into account;
crop yield per 1 sq. m.;
plant compatibility;
with a slope of the site;

The nuances of designing a garden design with beds

Photos of beautiful beds with your own hands will help you design your garden. This process must be accompanied by a rational distribution of space, as well as the right combination of vegetable crops.

If your site has a small area, then choose the corner version of the beds. You can try radial and radial layout schemes. The radial scheme is often used along. It can be used for the local area.

You can install rectangular or round beds and plantings along yard and garden paths.

Pay attention to the compatibility of crops that are going to be planted in the same area. There are special tables that will help determine the favorable neighborhood of individual crops.

Creating a garden layout and the location of the beds should be done taking into account some recommendations:

. The site must be divided into an economic zone, recreation and front;

important to think about. The site should be lit from all sides, as many vegetable crops love the sun;
limit planting areas to create additional protection and quality care for crops;
placement of landings and original configurations;

the width of the plantations and the passages between them matter. Experienced gardeners do not advise making a width of more than 70 cm;
landscaping is the most important part.

Decorative borders are necessarily used for beds with their own hands. Not like everyone else, interesting ideas can be found on our website. With the help of the sides you can raise the embankments. If the design of the entire territory involves the use of smooth lines, then you can make figured frames from ready-made modules.

Planting plants in containers has many benefits. They are especially valued for their mobility. You can move them to any place in the territory. With similar boxes of greens, you can not only decorate the beds in the garden, but also a barbecue area or.

In compact containers, you can plant cherry tomatoes, eggplants or decorative peppers. In large containers, you can plant several crops at once.

Flower and vegetable beds look good. In this case, flowers can be placed in groups, like bright islands.

Note! Do not forget to decorate the paths with small gravel, granite elements or wood cuts.

Designing beds in the country with your own hands: how to make the right sizes

When planning your garden space, consider the size of your plantings. The placement of narrow ones for vegetables is popular, since such a design facilitates the care of plantings.

The functional design of the beds is carried out taking into account their length, height and width, which are determined in advance. Size parameters can affect the yield, the level of complexity of design, as well as the appearance of the beds.

You can choose any width, but the best option is 70-90 cm. On such beds, plants can be planted in several rows. Even with a size of 90 cm, you can easily reach the central part of the landing from two sides. If you plan to plant vegetables near a wall or, then do not make the width more than 50 cm.

Particular attention should be paid to height. If you plant plants on a hill, then they can freeze in the winter, so not the best solution for perennials. In this case, the height can be no more than 15-20 cm.

Creating a design of beds in the country with your own hands: photos of paths and materials

When making a garden bed with your own hands, not like everyone else, you can bring interesting ideas to life with the help of unusual paths. For their arrangement, stone, sawdust or crushed stone is used.

You can concrete the paths, such a coating is particularly convenient. And if you are going to change planting patterns every year, then lay out the paths with wooden platforms, rubber or.

If there are no other materials, then tree bark or wood shavings can be used. This material does not rot, unlike sawdust.

On the paths, you can plant green manure, which will enrich the soil, and also help to get high-quality mulch. But such a coating is not dense enough and it will be inconvenient to walk on it.

gr Tracks from the boards

Budget options include crushed stone sprinkles. In some cases, pieces of roofing material, gratings of slats and flat slate are used.

From pieces of ceramic tiles, you can lay out a variety of ornaments and mosaics. A reliable coating is obtained from multi-colored.

Note! The materials of the paths and fences must be combined with each other. For stone fences, a good option is crushed stone, paving stones or tiles. If the structures are wooden, then the paths can be made from saw cuts of wood or from sawdust.

How to make a garden fence with your own hands

To create high-quality and beautiful designs, pay attention to the choice of materials for the manufacture of beds.

The design instructions begin with universal steps. First you need to prepare and level the soil. Mark the perimeter of the landings.

Consider some material options:

used for borders material made of steel with the addition of polyurethane. This solution will keep the designs from fading for a long time. The material is easy to install and can be dismantled when cold weather sets in. In addition, such fences are resistant to corrosion and are distinguished by mechanical strength;

by using plastic panels you can create multi-tiered structures. In this case, the elements can have a curved or smooth shape. This material is in demand due to its resistance to temperature extremes, as well as high strength. You can make an original garden bed from plastic pipes;

common material is wood. Before use, such material will have to be treated with additional impregnations, as it quickly deteriorates. More expensive solutions include decking;

polycarbonate borders produced in a variety of colors. Such material is fire resistant and resistant to mechanical stress;

slate durable material that perfectly withstands the impact of precipitation.

When creating any border for a garden bed with your own hands, follow these rules:

fences should not be high. The optimal value is from 10 to 30 cm;
framing should be in harmony with the configuration of the beds;
set the material firmly enough so that the soil does not spill out onto the paths.

Note! Plastic fences are easy to clean. To do this, it is enough to pour them with water from a hose.

Related article:

If you do not know which plastic constructions can be used, then our review will help you. You will not only get acquainted with the specifics of such products, but also learn the most unusual ideas for their use.

Do-it-yourself options for unusual beds in the country: photos and tips

Consider design options for unusual beds with your own hands from improvised materials. The photo shows the most original ideas.

With proper design, beautiful beds are in no way inferior. Some ideas you can bring to life on your own:

high beds allow you to raise the plants, and also contribute to their rapid heating and development of seedlings;

round designs look unusual. They can be used to grow beets, cabbage, tomatoes and radishes;

multi-level structures recommended for small areas;

for creating ladder apply;

vertical are made in the form of boxes for seedlings or in the form of plastic pipes. They are fixed vertically, which saves a lot of space. Vertical beds are used for strawberries, onions, lettuce, herbs and even cucumbers;

comfortable suspended structures. You can plant greens or strawberries in them.

To create beds, you can use any improvised materials. These can be plastic boxes, barrels or wooden containers.

Related article:

In this article, we will look at how to use the border tape correctly, prices and reviews for these products, and also find out what types of such decor can be used for landscape design of your site.

How to make a bed for strawberries with your own hands: photo and manufacturing method

Let's find out what kind of beds you can make for strawberries and other materials. For cultivation, wall and vertical structures are suitable, which provide optimal conditions for this plant. You can use spunbond. The price per meter of this material is less than the cost of film coatings.

So, here are the advantages of such structures:

are used for installation on a terrace or veranda;
fill the space along the fences;
can be placed on the walls.

How to create a bed for strawberries with your own hands from car tires

You can make a pyramid for growing strawberries. In this case, you will need tires from the car. This material is ideal for creating multi-tiered structures.

Tires are first cleaned, then washed, and then dried. Then the material should be painted over in the selected color. Make holes on the sides. Then the tire is mounted in place. A pipe is installed in the center, and soil is poured inside the tire. Be sure to wrap the pipe with synthetic fabric and make holes in it. The rest of the tires are laid on top and also filled with soil.

When the bed is made, fill the pipe with water. In this case, the liquid will flow into each tier of the structure.

How to make a bed for strawberries from a pipe

The option of arranging vertical beds for strawberries from is popular.

To make an interesting design, you will need two types of pipes with different diameters. In a pipe with a large diameter, make holes for planting seedlings. And in a smaller part, make holes for. The length of the structure can be any. Planting strawberries in a pipe horizontally can be done from separate elements.

Then the smaller product is inserted into the larger one, and the space between them is filled with soil. Such a material is resistant to the effects of the external environment, which is why it is so often used.

You can also make original beds for strawberries from a sewer pipe.

In the table you can see the installation step by step.

Image	Installation steps
	Holes are cut in the surface of the pipe, the diameter of which should not exceed 25-45 mm. The distance between the holes should be about 100-150 mm.
	We prepare a tube for watering. Poke holes with an awl. The speed of watering the soil depends on their size. Then wrap the part with spunbond or burlap, and then fix the material. Cover the bottom hole with a plug. Place a watering can at the top.
	Place a large pipe in a recess up to 0.5 meters. Sprinkle around with gravel, and then tamp down. In autumn, such structures can be moved to a warmer place.
	Put a smaller pipe inside, and then pour the substrate around. After watering, the soil can shrink, so it needs to be added occasionally.
	Plant rosettes from strawberry bushes in the finished structure

Making multi-tiered beds for strawberries with your own hands

Let's figure out how to make a multi-tiered bed for strawberries. In this case, constructions in the form are used. They can also be used as shelves for containers or pots.

A simple solution is to make a pyramidal structure from boxes. In this case, you will need boards that need to be connected in the form of rectangular and square products. Then the boxes are assembled according to the principle of a nesting doll: the largest element will be at the bottom, and the smallest at the top. Earth is poured into the container, and then seedlings are placed there.

Note! Tiered structures can be made from various improvised materials, for example, from plastic bottles.

Technology for creating beds for strawberries from bags

You can try the method of growing strawberries in bags. For this, products made of high density polyethylene or burlap are suitable.

Structures made from natural materials have excellent throughput, environmental friendliness and durability. With self-production, it is recommended to additionally strengthen the material with strong threads. Then the bags need to be filled with earth and cut into them. They will house strawberry bushes. It is important to firmly fix such a product. Sew a loop on top to secure the bag to the support. This is a good option for creating high beds in the country with your own hands. Photos allow you to see interesting ideas, for example, a checkerboard design.

How to make a bed of slate with your own hands: photo ideas

Fencing beds with slate is popular with gardeners and gardeners. This is a simple material that is durable. With the help of such elements, it is possible to protect the soil embankment from spreading along the paths.

Let's note their advantages:

used for long fences;
the material warms up quickly, while the process of getting nutrients to plants is accelerated;
ease of use;
low cost;
long service life;
attractive appearance.

But the slate border also has negative sides. In rainy weather and erosion of the soil, he sheets may deviate to the side.

In the video below you can see how to make a slate fence:

Useful inform tion! The surface of the slate can be painted in any color.

Features of beds from wavy slate do it yourself

Let's look at how to make a bed of wavy slate with your own hands. A similar material is used for roofing, but often there are small pieces that can be put to good use.

Here's what you can do:

cut the material into suitable pieces;
mark the boundaries of future landings. Dig trenches in which you install pieces of slate and sprinkle them with earth;
use metal pegs to fix the sheets.

Slate sheets are covered with vertical or horizontal waves. Material with a horizontal pattern is more difficult to cut.

How to make a bed of flat slate with your own hands

You can use flat slate for beds. This option is not as convenient as the previous one. For beds, sheets are suitable, the length of which is about 1.75 meters.

Here is the manufacturing procedure:

blanks are cut into two parts;
a trench is dug;
the prepared parts are placed there, and then sprinkled with soil;
in metal corners, holes must be made through which bolted connections will be made;
metal elements are connected to slate sheets. They must be additionally treated with special compounds that protect against corrosion;
after the material dries, it is necessary to fill the bed with organic fertilizers. It can be compost, or brushwood.

Important information ! Slate should not be driven into the soil, as it can easily break.

The nuances of buying slate for beds: the price of products

You can specially buy a flat slate for the garden. A grinder is suitable for cutting this material. When working with this tool, turn it so that the dust flies away from you. Such dust can cause harm to human health, so wear glasses specifically for this work.

You can also buy strips for slate beds. This material is sold for decoration of various landings.

You can see the prices in the table.

Image	Material	Dimensions	Price, rub/piece
	flat slate	3000150010mm	1450
	8 waves	175011305.2mm	210 to 245
	7 waves	17509805.2mm	200
	flat not pressed	150010010mm	389
	Metal slate 0.55	Sizes are different	150 to 208
	PVC slate (matt, color)	0.9*2m	320

How to make beds in a greenhouse: photo options and manufacturing nuances

Beautiful photos of the beds in the greenhouse demonstrate how to properly equip. If you properly organize planting, you can get a rich harvest. Greenhouses with a size of 3 * 6 m are in demand, as they can be used even in small areas. Similar designs are made from sheets. This material is characterized by high strength and good transmission for sunlight. Such products are easy to assemble and disassemble, as well as convenient to transport.

For greenhouse beds, you can use the following elements and materials:

great for sideboards boards. Long parts are securely fixed with wooden pegs;

aluminum sides easy to install;

slate boards durable and comfortable;

as sidewalls from tires it is better to use cut tires;
glass suitable for low structures;
brick fences can be used for more than one year.

In terms of dimensions, the beds can be narrow, medium, wide. All sorts of original configurations are also popular: pyramidal, vertical, French or spiral.

Note! A greenhouse can be built from film, glass or wood. Functional products can be purchased at the store or made independently from improvised materials.

Features of the location of the beds in the greenhouse 6 × 3: photos and location of structures

Greenhouses 3 by 6 are especially popular, and many gardeners are interested in how to arrange beds in such structures. Incorrect placement of plantings can lead to a decrease in yield.

Some rules will help you make the right layout:

low plants need a lot of light. To provide the necessary level of illumination, position the greenhouse from north to south;
when growing tall plants, you can install in the direction from west to east. This approach will provide sufficient lighting for the lower parts of the seedlings;
if the surface is not even, then step circuits can be built. In this case, the plants will be evenly lit.

How to make beds in a 3 × 6 greenhouse: photos and layouts

A competent approach to the planning of the internal environment of the greenhouse will allow you to achieve high quality crops. Use a small width of beds in a greenhouse with a width of 3 meters. Since the overall dimensions make it difficult to care for plants.

Try these layout options:

wide beds of 120 cm, and between them a path. In this case, the width of the passage will be about 0.5 m. But difficulties may arise when trying to get to the outermost plants;

vertical placement of beds in the greenhouse;

placement of three beds with two paths that separate them. Such a scheme has a smaller area, which makes it easier to care for;

one wide bed in the center and two narrow paths along its edges. This allows you to properly organize even a small space and provide maximum illumination;
several rows of small width located along the walls of the greenhouse and one voluminous bed in the center.

The layout depends on the installation in the greenhouse with your own hands, as well as on the vegetable crops that you plan to grow.

Warm beds involve the use of a special organic insulation. For this, a manure layer can be used, which warms up the soil layer well. To increase the decay process, you can add some sawdust or straw to the manure. In this case, sawdust is first laid, and a layer of manure is laid on top. After that, the insulation is poured with boiling water. Then, after a couple of days, the manure cover is covered with soil.

You can use different wood chips. Bark, sawdust and tree branches are laid at the bottom, then potato tops. After that leaves paper and rags. Then the insulation is watered with chicken manure. After that, the layers are covered with a film. A week later, the insulation is covered with a layer of earth, and plants are planted.

How to make a warm bed can be seen in the video below:

Creating beds in a greenhouse with your own hands: non-standard placement options

When choosing the placement of beds in height, consider the climatic features of your region. This value can vary from 20 to 50 cm, which provides access to plants. Also, there is no accelerated drying of the soil. For unusual designs, materials such as board, slate, brick or polycarbonate are used. The bottom of the structures is recommended to be covered with straw fillers, dust or rotten bark.

If such waste is poured with boiling water, then the fermentation process will begin, the formation of heat and decay will increase, which has a positive effect on plant growth. The vertical arrangement helps save usable space. Thus, strawberries are planted vertically in pipes.

So, let's look at the main options:

ties to supports often necessary for plants that are too tall. To build vertical structures, you can use grids, partitions or shields. At the same time, stretching cultures will rely on such a basis;

shelves They look like boxes and are placed one above the other. The height is determined by the needs of the plants. You can apply this method for low crops;

plastic pipes are covered with holes where soil is placed, and then plants are planted. It is necessary to fix such structures in a vertical position.

Article

A dacha is not only a place of rest from the bustle of the city, but also a good opportunity to grow some of your own organic vegetables and berries. Someone grows a little exclusively for the table, someone a little more for harvesting for the winter. However, often striving for a high yield, we forget that the beds are not a second job, but a place of rest. Therefore, in order for the cultivation of vegetables and berries to truly bring pleasure, the beds in the country should be not only fruitful, but also comfortable and beautiful. Moreover, you can make such beds with your own hands from almost any material.

Describing how to make beds in the country with your own hands, the beds are often divided into types according to the material from which they are made. However, this approach does not reflect the functional and aesthetic possibilities of the beds. Therefore, it is more correct to begin the breakdown of the beds by determining the shape and location of them on the site. In this way, you can create a comfortable and beautiful garden that can fit into a plot of any size.

The shape and location of the beds on the site

For a small plot, it is good to organize the beds in the corner of the plot. The beds will look great if you break them in a radial or radial pattern.

Fig.1.

Fig.2.

If the site is large, then the beds can be laid out along the central path. Here you can make a circular or rectangular shape of the garden. By planting plants of various colors, for example, salads of various varieties, cabbage, pumpkin, garden beds in the country will look no worse than flower beds.

Fig.3.

However, when making a composition from various types of vegetables, one should take into account the principle of their compatibility and be guided by the table below. Otherwise, it is unlikely that you will be able to get a high yield from the beds.

Fig.4.

Bed sizes

Returning to the beds, it should be said that the most important parameters of the beds are their height and width. The geometric dimensions of the beds have a direct impact on productivity, ease of care for plants, protection of plants from freezing, ease of arrangement of beds and their appearance.

Bed width

The width of the bed can be arbitrary, but usually it is 80-90 cm. This width is enough for two to three rows of plants. A bed up to 90 cm wide makes it easy to reach the center from any side. However, if the beds are located close to the fence, then it is advisable to make them no more than 50 cm wide. So it will be much easier to take care of the plants.

Bed height

The height of the bed is also very important. Unlike the width of the beds, the height is a little more difficult. The fact is that on high beds the probability of freezing perennial plants is much higher than on low ones. This is due to the fact that the layer of snow that protects against freezing is always larger on a bed located at ground level, and snow falls earlier. On high beds, the opposite is true. Therefore, it is advisable to make high beds for annual plants, and for perennials it will be limited to a bed no more than 15 cm high.

Fig.5.

For growing annuals, high beds are very convenient. The main convenience is that you do not have to bend down to the ground every time you need to pull out a weed or remove a stepson. On a high bed, water will not stagnate and the soil will be strongly compacted, and therefore there is no need for annual digging, but only loosening is enough. Having a high bed is much easier to organize a warm bed, which will allow you to harvest an early harvest. However, the height of the beds should not be made more than 60 cm, an exception can only be made for growing undersized plants, for example, lettuce, onions, parsley, etc.

Fig.6.

Warm beds

Mentioning the warm beds, a few words should be said about their device. A warm bed consists of several layers. The bottom layer is thick branches, cardboard, etc. organic residues with a low decomposition rate. The middle layer is leaves, tops, hay, straw, etc. garden waste with an average decomposition rate. The top layer is compost and earth. The thickness of each layer is approximately 20 cm. The lower two layers gradually rot and release heat. Therefore, the bed after the winter thaws much faster and seedlings can be planted in it earlier. Thus, an early harvest is achieved.

Fig.7.

Of course, a warm bed can be made and not high. However, in this case, instead of simply laying the above layers in the box (fencing of the beds), you will first have to dig a small ditch, which will greatly complicate the work of arranging a warm bed. Plus, a high bed will provide good drainage, which is especially important with a high level of groundwater.

How and from what to make paths between the beds

Breaking the beds and planning the garden, do not forget about the paths between the beds. Paths are not only a transport artery, and garden decoration. Good paths will create a sense of order and harmony.

Paths between beds can be made in various ways. Often the paths are made of paving slabs, gravel, or simply planted with lawn grass. Functionally, all types of paths are not much different, so here, first of all, you should be guided by your aesthetic preferences.

Fig.8.

Fig.9.

Having considered the possible options for the location on the site, the shape, types of beds and their sizes, you can move on to the question of choosing the material for the beds in the country. The following materials are most widely used in the construction of beds: wooden boards, brick or stone, slate and prefabricated structures made of plastic and galvanized steel.

Materials for the manufacture of beds

Beds from boards

Wooden boards for making beds are a favorite material. It is very easy to make beds from boards and no preparation or special tools are required. It is enough to have a saw, nails and a hammer. Of course, the disadvantage of wood is a high tendency to rot, but this problem is quite simply solved if the wood for making beds is pre-treated with an antiseptic. Thus, the bed can last 5, and 10, and 15 years. If you choose oak or larch boards for the beds, then such a bed can last longer.

Beds from wooden boards can be made not only in a rectangular shape, but also in any other. If the bed will have the shape of a rectangle, triangle or any other shape that has corners, then you can make a bed simply by knocking the boards together with nails, while the boards are arranged horizontally.

Fig.10.

The required height of the beds is provided by installing several tiers of boards.

Fig.11.

If you need to make a rounded bed, then you can go in two ways: collect a bed of short pieces of boards, arranging them in a circle or setting the boards vertically. In this case, in both cases, the boards are connected in the same way with the help of nails or self-tapping screws. Combinations of these methods are also possible.

Fig.12.

If you have doubts about the reliability of protecting wooden beds from decay with the help of modern water-based antiseptic preparations, then you can use traditional methods: treat the wood with hot drying oil or lay roofing material on the inside of the beds.

Brick and stone beds

Brick and natural stone are no less popular than wooden planks. At the same time, the service life of such beds is not limited. If the bed is of low height, then the brick as a bed fence is installed vertically or at an angle, and no additional preparation is required. In this way, you can make a bed of arbitrary shape.

Fig.13.

High brick beds are somewhat more difficult to make. In order to make a high bed of brick or stone, a foundation is needed. As a foundation, a concrete tape with a section of approximately 20x20 cm is poured on a sand cushion 20–30 cm thick. It is desirable to reinforce the tape with a steel bar. It turns out a strip foundation of shallow depth. A brick or stone is laid on the finished foundation.

Fig.14.

When making high beds of brick, one should firmly determine their shape and location on the site. High brick beds are a fundamental structure and it will be very difficult to move them after construction.

Slate beds

For most summer residents, the favorite material for building beds is slate. Indeed, slate is often in abundance in the country, especially after the replacement of the roof. Naturally, it is simply impossible not to use this material, especially considering the fact that slate is durable, not afraid of moisture, and it is very easy to make such a simple structure as beds out of it.

Slate beds can be made in any shape and size. If roofing corrugated slate is used, then it is cut into segments and dug into the ground vertically to a depth of 20 - 30 cm. With a vertical arrangement, the slate is more durable due to the presence of waves. For rectangular beds, slate can be used in any size. Rounded slate beds are made from small segments.

Fig.15.

Especially for beds, you can purchase sheet flat slate. Slate of this type, when arranging beds, is fastened together using metal corners. For structural rigidity with high beds, an additional corner is installed along the beds in increments of 1 - 1.5 m.

Fig.16.

How to cut slate? When arranging beds, slate will have to be used in various sizes. Cutting slate is very easy with a grinder with a circle of stone or a diamond wheel. There will be a lot of dust when cutting the slate so be sure to wear a face shield and goggles.

Ready-made garden beds

Ready-made structures for fencing beds are no less popular. Two types are widespread: plastic and galvanized sheets. Plastic fence beds allow you to make it of any shape and size. Metal allow you to quickly make beds of any height.

Fig.17.

Of course, it is difficult to make a round-shaped bed out of finished metal structures, but simplicity and reliability are often paramount.

Fig.18.

Fig.19.

We considered all possible options for forms, arrangement of bed materials. The solutions described are the simplest and will make your beds comfortable and beautiful. However, just as there is no limit to perfection, so there is no finite number of possible options for the execution of beds. Do not be afraid to experiment and apply non-standard approaches, so your garden will be the best!