A guide to how to coat a concrete garage roof. Hip roof structure with rafters supported on floor beams Roof support on floor slabs

Overlapping different types have their own installation technology, which should be strictly observed.

The general rule is that the ceiling is aligned with the ceiling of the lower floor. Since it is it that gives the structure of the house spatial rigidity, all its parts are rigidly connected to each other and to the walls (welding, concreting, anchors).

It is not allowed to punch holes in the floor slabs that are not provided for by the project (so as not to damage the ribs and reinforcement in the slab), shorten (cut) the floor slabs, or overload them during installation in excess of the standard load. The most common mistake is reducing the area of ​​support of the ceiling on the wall(compared to the design).

Effects. Deflection and collapse of ceilings, cracks in the walls and on the ceiling (for example , permissible deflection for a 6 m span hollow core slab is 15 mm).

Elimination. If the deflection is greater than permissible, the load on the slab should be reduced or reinforced in the manner specified by the specialist.

How right. It is necessary to strictly follow the project and instructions on the technology of installation of floors. If, due to an error in the construction of the wall, there is a problem of insufficient support area, a specialist must develop a node for this section that allows it to be increased.

Roof construction mistakes

The attic wall is not reinforced

Effects. Inclined rafters act on the attic wall in a horizontal direction, creating a thrust, causing the wall to collapse.

Elimination. Convert a hanging truss system to a layered one.

How to do it right . When erecting an attic wall, it is initially necessary to provide for a layered rafter system (with a fulcrum in the ridge area).

The vapor barrier film is not hermetically installed

Effects. There are pockets of steam penetration into the insulation, which is why moisture accumulates in the under-roof space.

Elimination. Disassemble the structure, inspect the rafters, replace damaged elements. The insulation must be dried or replaced.

How right. When installing the vapor barrier, the film around the perimeter of the attic is brought onto the walls. With a special wide mounting tape, they carefully seal the joints and places of abutment to structures. It is prohibited to use nails.

There is no ventilation layer in the roofing "pie"

Effects. Moisture can accumulate in the insulation, which is why it loses its properties.

Elimination. Disassemble the structure, inspect the rafters, repair damage, and re-mount the roofing "pie".

How right. The roof space must be ventilated through air gap, which is left between the insulation and the waterproofing film. Only a superdiffusion membrane can be laid on the insulation without a gap.

When installing bituminous and metal roofs(folded, metal-tile), under which condensation forms, ventilation gap also arrange directly under roofing... Under the eaves of the roof, holes are left for the flow of air, and in the area of ​​\ u200b \ u200bthe ridge, devices are mounted for its outflow.

The type of coverage has been changed to a heavier one

Effects. The rafters die, as a result of which the roof deforms, begins to leak and can collapse.

Elimination. Gain rafter system.

How right. When changing the type of roof, it is necessary to order from the design engineer a recalculation of the rafter system for a more massive covering.

By its design, the roof of a garage is significantly different from the roof of a residential building. Many will say that there is nothing difficult here, but, nevertheless, one must take seriously its device. Its dryness depends on how well the roof of the garage is made.

The roof structure must reliably protect your vehicle from the adverse effects of the atmosphere.

The simplest and most reliable type of garage overlap is made from factory 6 or 7 hollow concrete slabs laid on load-bearing walls garage.

But if you are already planning a garage as a free-standing structure or located on the territory of the estate, then it is better to use a roof structure with an attic space. And in the attic you can place a utility room, for example, a warehouse or workshop.

Instead of a slab, you can use beam floor garage, which consists of a system of wooden or metal beams.

The combination of materials used and their processing must comply with safety regulations and have the necessary rigidity and reliability.

If you plan to use wooden structural elements, then they must be treated with various antiseptics against damage, both insects and the external environment.

Naturally, when using a beam floor system, the main load lies on the beams. Therefore, it is better to use reinforced concrete, metal or wooden beams of sufficient strength. On top of them, the flooring or roll is laid. The roofing process is the same regardless of which material is used. The choice of beams is influenced by the way they are installed, for example, for the installation of reinforced concrete or metal beams, the help of a crane will be needed, when wooden beams can be easily installed by the efforts of several people.

Beams should be laid on load-bearing walls in specially left grooves in the masonry. If such grooves were not made during masonry, then they should be made using a chisel and a hammer or perforator.

Naturally, the beams can be installed on the wall itself, only the gaps between the beams will have to be repaired with bricks. Laying of concrete or metal beams is carried out on a layer cement mortar, or even better on a concrete pillow.

After installing the beams in the nests, all the voids formed around the end must be sealed with mortar.

As a rule, for our conditions, a plank flooring device is used. wooden beams, since it is quite simple and relatively cheap.

The process of installing wooden beams is practically the same as installing beams made of other materials. The only difference is in the additional measure of protection wooden elements constructions. So the ends of wooden beams in contact with the walls are treated with bitumen mastic and wrapped in two layers of roll waterproofing material, for example roofing material. The ends of the beams will not tar and close. The grooves are also covered with roofing material and after installing the beams, all voids are sealed with cement mortar.

The thickness of the used wooden beams depends on how often they will be located, and the width of the span to be covered. For example, if this is a garage measuring 4 x 4 m with a beam pitch of 100 cm, then you should use wooden beams with a section of 20 x 12 cm.If you reduce the pitch of the beams to 60 cm, you can use a beam with a section of 18 x 14 cm.

With a garage size of 5 x 5 m and between the beam spacing of 100 cm, you will need beams (beams) with a section of 22 x 16 cm.If you reduce the distance between the beams to 60 cm, then beams with a section of 18 x 14 cm are used.

For absence necessary bars you can use logs or hammered boards and put on the edge. The total thickness of the knocked-down boards should correspond to the thickness of the beam (timber), instead of which they are used. The logs must be dry, peeled and hewn from at least 3 sides.

Upon completion of the installation and fixing of the floor beams, a roll is laid on them, which in turn is the basis for the future ceiling (example in Fig. 175).

Rice. 175.:

1 - floor beam; 2 - cranial bar; 3 - roll (base of the ceiling); 4 - glassine or lutrasil; 5 - insulation material; 6 - waterproofing layer; 7 - attic roll-up (final attic floor)

The skull bars should be fastened so that they are flush with the underside of the beams. To do this, the roll-up elements must be made with 1/4 cutouts at the ends. For rolling you can use unedged boards or croaker.

If you plan to do warm attic, then you should immediately think about ways to insulate it. Insulation can be done from mineral wool (glass wool), expanded clay, sawdust, slag well, or any other known to you thermal insulation material which is not afraid of moisture and temperature extremes.

Construction paper or roofing material is spread on top of the stuffed roll-up boards.

Instead of these materials, you can apply a thick layer of crumpled greasy clay or a solution of clay and filler (powdered asbestos, chopped straw or sawdust in the ratio of parts 1: 3). Water is added as needed. As soon as the solution dries, insulation can be laid or covered over it.

It is not necessary to tamp the insulation material, since the air in it provides additional thermal insulation.

The total thickness of the insulating layer should be up to 3/4 of the height of the beams.

If you plan to use mineral wool or another type of artificial insulation, then for its installation you will need a waterproofing layer, both on the bottom and on top of the material.

Wood flooring device performed after laying the waterproofing layer. First, rolled material is spread on the beams, and the logs are laid.

True, you can do without laying a lag if there is a small distance between the floor beams. In this case, the wooden floor of the attic is laid directly on the joists.

If you do not plan to use the attic of the garage, then the insulation of the floor ends after the installation of heat-insulating material or backfill of expanded clay or gravel.

To give the garage ceiling a smoother and more attractive look, it can be sheathed with plywood, fiberboard, chipboard, dry plaster sheets, or clapboard.

Slab garage floors

Usually slabs are used in the construction of a stone garage. They are laid directly on the masonry of the walls, on a previously laid out layer of cement mortar.

Since the slab is fed by a crane and is held by it, it can be easily tweaked and positioned as best as possible with the help of crowbars or metal pipes using them as leverage.

After laying the slabs in their places, they begin to seal the joints and places of the mounting loops with cement or concrete mortar.

The design of the slabs itself is designed in such a way that longitudinal voids are located inside it, which play the role of thermal insulation. But if the roof structure is with an attic, then the slabs should still be covered with a layer of insulation material.

As in the previous case, roofing material is laid down, roofing or bituminous mastic in order to protect the insulation material from the penetration of condensate and water vapor.

Any structure ends with a roof, which is its top point. The roof protects the building from atmospheric precipitation, sunlight, winds and frost, in other words, it provides the much-needed comfort inside the building. This means that the roof must be stable and strong in order to successfully withstand gusts of wind and rain, protect from the effects of solar radiation, keep warm and be impervious to moisture. Thus, the roof protects buildings from destruction that occurs as a result of atmospheric exposure: moisture, freezing and thawing.

Video how to build a floor on wooden beams

The roof is one of the main constituent elements of any structure. It serves not only for protection from atmospheric precipitation and thermal insulation, but also for giving the building a complete shape. Currently, the technology of roofing depends on its type (flat, pitched), materials and equipment used.

The minimum angle of inclination of a metal roof should be 14 degrees.

Flat roof

Traditional layering in flat roof construction.

This type of roof is widely used both in the arrangement of residential and industrial buildings... It is good because it has a simple installation, affordable cost and additional usable area that can be used to set up a cafe, sports ground, parking, growing green spaces, etc. The drain is usually inside the house, and the edge is outlined by a parapet. Roof slope up to 3% to ensure best plum rain and melt water.

There are two ways to construct a flat roof base: concrete floor(monolith or concrete plates) and beam (as in pitched structure, but with a minimum tilt angle).

The concrete floor must be insulated in the form of sheets stone wool or Styrofoam that is laid over the base of the roof. The next layer is the reinforcement screed. The construction is completed by a waterproofing coating.

This type flat roof very reliable and durable, can be used as a terrace, but the disadvantage is the large weight, which implies strong foundation and strong load-bearing walls of the building.

The girder method of erecting flat roofs at the base has rafters (wooden beams or metal I-beams), and on top the flooring is made of plywood or OSB. Insulation is placed between the beams.

Compared to a concrete roof, joist floors are less reliable and may deflect over time, leading to deformation of the roof.

Waterproofing coating for flat roofs

Waterproofing structure of a flat roof on a concrete floor.

Among the varieties waterproofing coating a flat roof can be distinguished by a membrane system. PVC membrane is made from plasticized polyvinyl chloride and a number of other components that reduce the flammability of the material, protect it from ultraviolet radiation and oxidation during high temperatures the environment... It consists of two layers: the upper one contains dyes that give it light color, reflective of the sun's rays, as well as flame retardants, stabilizers, plasticizers and fillers. The lower layer is darker, without the presence of flame retardants and stabilizers. To make the membrane stronger, it is reinforced with fiberglass or polyester mesh.

The following tools and equipment are used to cover the roof with PVC membrane:

1. Automatic welding machine for joining panel seams.
2. Manual welding hair dryer (used when welding membrane joints in hard-to-reach places, at the junctions).
3. Electric drill, if you need to screw in self-tapping screws or other fasteners to secure the membrane.
4. Perforator (for mechanical fastening of the membrane, if the base of the roof is a cement-sand screed).
5. A construction gun used to mount the membrane in conditions of work at a height from ropes or scaffolding, since in this case it is impractical to work with a hammer drill.
6. Electrical extension cords for the automatic welding machine.
7. Consumables and auxiliary materials (construction knife, gloves, screwdriver, etc.).

The technology of fastening a PVC membrane can be carried out in several ways: heat-welded, adhesive, ballast and mechanical.

The heat-welded method of joining the canvases is made using welding machine, which gives out a stream of air with heating of 400-600 degrees. Recommended width of a weld seam is from 20 to 100 mm.

Advantages: high-quality sealed roof surface, UV rays do not affect the welded seams.

Disadvantages: the complexity of the process, which should only be trusted by specialists.

Fastening PVC membranes adhesive method used in cases where other methods are unacceptable for some reason.

Special adhesive mixtures that are applied to the canvas. To save Money, you can make a connection adhesive composition only in the most key places (the perimeter of the roof, the places where the membrane adjoins to chimneys, in-house storm drains and other protruding places).

The roofing membrane, used as waterproofing, is reliably protected from the effects of ultraviolet radiation, high and low temperatures gravel ballast.

Advantages: adhesive technology for mounting PVC membranes is good for roofs with complex structures.

Disadvantages: the likelihood of a poorly glued seam, the high cost of the glue mixture.

The ballast type of installation of PVC membrane canvases is the easiest, for example, with a roof slope of up to 15 degrees. Fastening technology consists of the following steps:

1. Uniform laying of membranes on the roof surface, fastening along the perimeter at the points of abutment to vertical elements by welding or glue.
2. Laying ballast (crushed stone, gravel or pebbles of medium fraction) weighing from 50 kg / m 2.
3. Protection of the membrane material with mats or non-woven fabrics against mechanical damage(the action is performed in front of the ballast fill if it has sharp edges).

Advantages: simple and economical installation.

Disadvantages: The roof must be strong to support the weight of the ballast.

The technology of mechanical installation of the membrane implies the attachment of the canvases to the base of the roof with fasteners - self-tapping screws with a plastic umbrella. They are screwed in in the areas of overlapping of one membrane sheet on another with a step of 200 mm. Along the perimeter of the roof, the membrane is attached to the protruding elements with edge strips.

Pitched roof

The most popular roof construction solution is gable roof, which does not have heating in the attic.

The name itself suggests that the roof has a slope (with a minimum angle of 10 o). The size of the angle depends on the architectural concept of the building, the roofing material and the amount of snowfall in the built area.

Classification:

1. Shed - one slope between parallel walls.
2. Gable - two rectangular slopes with a common connection.
3. Four-slope (hip, hip) - four triangular slopes connected by their vertices at one point or two trapezoidal and two triangular slopes parallel to each other.
4. Broken line (mansard), conical and other complex sloping structures.

Pitched roofs can be made in two versions: with a warm or cold attic. The base of the device ( Basic structure) consists of rafters (wood or metal) or reinforced concrete slabs.

Design two pitched roof: rafter legs, tightening, run, stand, bed, mauerlat.

The main element of the device for a pitched wooden or metal-wooden roof is the rafter system. It is calculated from the weight of the roofing material, the load of atmospheric precipitation and wind.

Rafters. Rafters can be layered or hanging. Basically, they use wooden rafters made of coniferous timber, because they are easier to process than reinforced concrete or metal.

Mauerlat. The beam on which the legs of the rafters rest is called the mauerlat. It serves as a support and is mounted along the entire length of the building. A waterproofing layer is laid between the Mauerlat and the inner surface of the walls.

In order for the roof of the building to have a high resistance to wind load, the Mauerlat and the rafters must be well fastened to the walls with anchors and metal corners.

Runs. Attached parallel to the Mauerlat. There are ridge (connect the ends rafter legs) and side (mounted in the middle of the rafters).

Racks. Wooden beams located perpendicular to the ridge of the pitched roof. They support the rafter legs and transfer the weight to the tightening.

Tightening. A bar installed perpendicular to the Mauerlat at the base of the truss system. Serves to enhance rigidity.

Sill. It is an additional reinforcement of rigidity and is installed if the rafters are simultaneously on two spans.

Braces. Another component of the rafter system to increase its rigidity. They can be transverse and longitudinal.

Lathing. Planks or beams that are laid across the rafters are called lathing. The roof covering is attached to the crate.

The device of a pitched roof made of reinforced concrete slabs consists of individual elements, which are manufactured at the factory and assembled into a single unit at the construction site. Basically, this type of roof is used in the construction of industrial buildings.

Classification of roofs by type of roofing materials

Soft bituminous roof

Materials serving as protective and decorative coating called " soft roof"Have a high consumer demand due to a wide selection of colors, light weight, flexibility, resistance to atmospheric precipitation, although the cost of such a coating is quite high. These include bituminous shingles, roll materials(polymer, bituminous), roofing material, membranes. Service life is at least 20 years.

Types of hard roofs

Rigid pitched roof materials include different kind metals (steel, copper, aluminum), mineral materials (tiles, slate, slate tiles), wood (tes, shavings, shingles).

Regardless of which roofing device you choose, it is necessary to competently and efficiently approach each stage of construction: from the drawing to the final. Each installation technology has its own advantages and disadvantages, but as a result of its correct application will give a good result for many years.

The attic floor is one of the most important structural elements of the building. It is incorrect to believe that it is intended only to form the floor and ceiling. Its main function is the horizontal connection of the walls of the building.

Attic floor device

There are 2 types of installation of floors between the attic and the main premises of the house. The most commonly used technologies are:

• laying a reinforced concrete slab;
• installation on wooden logs.

Methods for arranging attic floors are chosen depending on the material from which the building is built. If it is brick, concrete slabs are used. For buildings made of timber, sandwich panels, foam and gas blocks, the preferred option is installation on wooden logs.

What materials are required for the installation of the floor:

• standard concrete slabs, wooden beams;
• metal beams, fittings, cement;
• sand, gravel (if concreting is done by hand);
• reinforced concrete beams, means for fire-retardant wood processing;
• compositions for increasing the coefficient of moisture and frost resistance of concrete;
• roofing material, vapor and waterproofing membranes and films.

Overlapping on wooden beams

The undoubted advantage of wooden elements is simplicity, convenience and speed of construction. This method pleases developers with lower construction costs than when installing reinforced concrete slabs or self-concreting. When erecting economy-class houses, the prefabricated-hemming method of installing wooden floors is used.

If there are 2-3 assistants, all work can be done within one working day. Mounting attic floor on wooden beams does not require construction site lifting special equipment. Wooden beams are raised on the desired height with your own hands or with the help special devices using a winch.

Light weight wooden floor attic significantly reduces the load on the foundation. Any sound and heat insulator can be placed in the space between the lags. If using hygroscopic materials such as mineral wool, then they carry out work on the steam and waterproofing of the attic.

The disadvantages of floors on wooden beams include:

• lower bearing capacity than when using concrete slabs;
• flammability of the material;
• the need for additional work to ensure the strength of the floor so that it does not become a source of squeaks.

Installation technology

For the overlap device, a bar with a section of 150x250x100 mm, 150x250x200 mm or 100x250x40-80 mm is used. In the absence of a sufficient amount of this lumber, double boards with a thickness of 4-5 cm are used. For filing the beams from above and below, sheet or plate materials of sufficient rigidity are required: plywood, chipboard, DSP, OSB.

It is recommended to use blades with a thickness of at least 8 mm. The filing can be done either directly on the logs or on a pre-assembled lathing made of thin bars with a section of 4x4 or 4-5 cm. Nails and wood screws of sufficient length are used as fasteners.

In the process of preparing for the installation of the floor, a heat engineering calculation is performed and the required thickness constructions. After that, a lag laying scheme is chosen. There are 2 options: the ends of the beams are located within external walls buildings or protrude 20-40 cm beyond them.

• the length of the wall is rounded up;
• calculate the required number of beams;
• add 2 more beams to this indicator, which will be on opposite walls of the house.

Stages of work on the device of the attic floor on wooden beams:

1. Preparing lumber of the required length, lifting it up. Laying the 2 outermost wooden beams on the walls of the building. Performing markings for the installation of intermediate lags.
2. Laying the waterproofing material into the nests (niches, recesses) pre-built in the walls for the ends of the beams. Beam laying. Sealing of holes: the gaps formed between the timber and the walls of the nests are closed with insulation. You can use frost and moisture resistant polyurethane foam.
3. Execution of lathing on the underside of the slab, if necessary. Mount the bottom sheet. Laying steam and heat insulating material in the openings between wooden beams. Mounting of the upper cladding.

In a similar way, the overlap of the garage or other buildings is being erected. It can be independent structural element buildings and part of the roof. In the second case, the structure is the supporting element of the roof.

This way of arranging the attic is optimal if you need to overlap the roof with corrugated board or some other finishing material... In this case, the roof is directly adjoined to the ceiling.

We have already talked about the hip roof on the site. There was described the construction of the roof with the support of the rafters on the Mauerlat. After the publication of the article, I received many requests to show how to make a hip roof with the support of the rafters on the floor beams, and also to answer the question whether it is possible to make a hip roof with different angles slope of the slopes.

Thus, I wanted to "kill two birds with one stone" with one example. We will now consider the construction hip roof with the support of the rafters on the floor beams and with different angles of inclination of the slopes.

So, let's say we have a box of a house of 8.4x10.8 meters.

STEP 1: Install the Mauerlat (see Fig. 1):

Picture 1

STEP 2: We install long floor beams with a section of 100x200 cm in increments of 0.6 meters (see Figure 2). I will not dwell on it anymore.

Picture 2

We are the very first to put beams that run strictly in the middle of the house. We will be guided by them, installing a ridge bar. Then we put the rest with a certain step. For example, we have a step of 0.6 meters, but we see that 0.9 meters are left to the wall, and one more beam could fit, but it is not. We leave such a span specially for the "outriggers". Its width should not be made less than 80-100 cm.

STEP 3: Install the stem. Their step is determined when calculating the rafters, about which a little later (see Fig. 3):

Figure 3

For now, we put only the stem, corresponding to the length of the ridge, which will be equal to 5 meters. The length of the ridge is greater than the difference between the length and width of the house, which is 2.4 meters. What does this lead to? This leads to the fact that the corner rafter will not be located at an angle of 45 ° in the plan (in the top view), and the angle of inclination of the slopes and hips will be different. The slopes will have a shallower slope.

It is enough to fix the stem on the Mauerlat with nails. We attach them to a long floor beam, for example, like this (Fig. 4):

Figure 4

There is no need to make any cuts in this node. Any wash down will weaken the floor beam. Here we use two metal roof rafters type LK on the sides and one large nail (250 mm) driven through the beam into the stem end. We hammer in the nail with the very last, when the stem is already fastened to the Mauerlat.

STEP 4: Install the ridge bar (see Fig. 5):

Figure 5

All elements of this structure, except for the struts, are made of 100x150 mm timber. Plank braces 50x150 mm. The angle between them and the overlap is at least 45 °. We see that under the extreme pillars there are beams resting on five floor beams at once. We do this to distribute the load. Also, to reduce the load on the floor beams and transfer part of it to the load-bearing partition, struts are installed.

We determine the height of the installation of the ridge bar and its length for our house ourselves, making a preliminary sketch on paper.

STEP 5: We manufacture and install rafters.

First of all, we make a rafter rafter template. To do this, take a board of the desired section that is suitable in length, apply it, as shown in Figure 6, and make markings using a small level (blue lines):

Figure 6

The height of the bar that we imposed on the stem to mark the bottom cut is equal to the depth of the top cut. We made it 5 cm.

According to the resulting template, we make all the rafters of the slopes, resting on the ridge beam, and fix them (see Fig. 7):

Figure 7

In such structures, where the rafters are based not on long floor beams, but on short overhangs, we always put small supports under the rafters above the Mauerlat, forming a kind of small triangle and unloading the stem attachment to the beam (see Fig. 8):

Figure 8

It is not necessary to bring these props further into the roof and even more so to put them on the joint of the stem with the beam. Most of the load from the roof is transmitted through them (this can be seen in the design program) and the floor beam may simply not withstand.

Now a little about the calculations. Choosing the cross-section of the rafters for a given roof, we count only one rafter - this is the rafter rafter. It is the longest here and its angle of inclination is less than the angle of inclination of the rafters of the hips (explanation - we call the slope of the roof in the shape of a trapezoid, the hip - the slope of the roof in the shape of a triangle) Calculations are made in the tab "Lanyard 3". An example of the results in Figure 9:

Figure 9

Yes, I forgot to say. Who has already downloaded this calculation program from my site before December 1, 2013. There is no tab "Lanyard 3". To download the updated version of the program, go to the article again at the link:

This article has also been slightly revised thanks to the feedback from some readers, for which special thanks to them.

STEP 6: Add a stem and attach the wind boards (see Fig. 10). We add so many stems so that there is room for attaching the corner stem. For now, we simply sew the wind boards at the corners together, controlling their straightness. Visually check for sagging corners. If so, place temporary supports underneath them directly from the ground. After installing the corner stems, we remove these props.

Figure 10

STEP 7: We mark and set the corner stem.

First, we need to pull the lace along the top of the floor beams, as shown in Fig. 11

Figure 11

Now we take a bar of a suitable length (the section is the same as for all stems) and put it on top of the corner so that the lace is in the middle of it. On the bottom of this bar, mark the lines of the cuts with a pencil. (see fig. 12):

Figure 12

We remove the lace and install the timber sawn off along the marked lines (see Fig. 13):

Figure 13

We attach the corner stem to the Mauerlat using two roof corners. We fasten it to the floor beam with a 135 ° corner and a large nail (250-300 mm). Bend the corner 135 ° with a hammer if necessary.

Thus, we put all four corner stems.

STEP 8: We manufacture and install corner rafters.

In the hip roof, which I described earlier, the angles of the slopes and hips were the same. Here, these angles are different and therefore the corner rafter will have its own characteristics. We also make it from two planks of the same section as the rafters. But we do not usually sew these boards together. One will be slightly lower than the other (about about 1 cm, depending on the difference in the angles of inclination of the slopes and hips).

So, first of all, we pull 3 laces on each side of the roof. Two along the corner rafters, one along the middle rafter of the hip (see Fig. 14):

We measure the angle between the lace and the corner stem - the bottom gash. Let's call it "α" (see Fig. 15):

Figure 15

Also mark the point "B"

We calculate the angle of the upper cut β = 90 ° - α

In our example, α = 22 ° and β = 68 °.

Now we take a small piece of a board with a rafter section and saw down one end on it at an angle β. We apply the resulting workpiece to the ridge, aligning one edge with the lace, as shown in Fig. 16:

Figure 16

A line was drawn on the workpiece parallel to the lateral plane of the adjacent rafters of the ramp. On it, we will make another gash and get the template for the upper gash of our corner rafter.

Also, when we apply the workpiece, it is necessary to mark point "A" on the rafter of the ramp (see fig. 17):

Figure 17

Now we make the first half of the corner rafter. To do this, take a board of a suitable length. If one board is not enough, we sew two boards together. You can sew temporarily by cutting an inch about a meter long on self-tapping screws. We make the upper cut according to the template. We measure the distance between points "A" and "B". We transfer it to the rafter and make the bottom cut at an angle "α".

We install the resulting rafter and fix it (see Fig. 18):

Figure 18

Most likely, due to its length, the first half of the corner rafter will bend. It is necessary to put a temporary stand under it approximately in the middle. It is not shown in my drawings.

Now we make the second half of the corner rafter. To do this, measure the size between points "C" and "D" (see Fig. 19):

Figure 19

We take a board of suitable length, make the upper cut at an angle β, measure the distance "S-D", make the lower cut at an angle α. Install the second half of the corner rafter and sew it with the first nails (100 mm). We drive the nails into a spacing after about 40-50 cm. The result is shown in Fig. 20:

Figure 20

The upper end of the second half of the corner rafter must be sawed down again. We do this with a chainsaw right in place (Fig. 21):

Figure 21

In the same way, we manufacture and install the three remaining corner rafters.

STEP 9: We install racks under the corner rafters. First of all, it is imperative to put a stand abutting against the junction of the corner extension with the floor beam (see Fig. 22):

Figure 22

If the length of the span covered by the corner rafter (its horizontal projection) is more than 7.5 meters, we put more racks at a distance of ¼ of the span from the top point of the corner rafter. If the span is more than 9 meters, add uprights in the middle of the corner rafter. In our example, this span is 5.2 meters.

STEP 10: We install two central rafters of the hips. At the beginning of step 8, we have already pulled the laces to measure them.

We make the rafters in this way - measure the angle of the lower cut "γ" with a small angle, calculate the angle of the upper cut "δ":

δ = 90 ° - γ

We measure the distance between the points "K-L" and make a rafter along it. We saw the ends at the corners we defined. After that, the upper end must be cut down (sharpened) again, taking into account the angle "φ", which we also measure with the help of a bevel (see Fig. 23):

Figure 23

STEP 11: Add a stem to the corners. The most extreme offsets, which do not reach the Mauerlat, are made lightweight, from a board of 50x200 mm (see Fig. 24):

Figure 24

STEP 12: We install the wives. I described in detail in the first article about how to make wives. Here the principle is absolutely the same, so I will not repeat myself (see Fig. 25):

Figure 25

We fasten the beads to the corner rafter using a 135 ° metal corner, bending it if necessary.

After installing all the crate, it remains for us to hem the cornices from the bottom and make the crate. We have already talked about this many times.