How to make a sports equipment yourself. Playground in the country - do-it-yourself game shells

A country house or cottage is not only a place for beds and berry bushes. It is pleasant and useful to do physical education in clean air, keeping fit and maintaining health. The best tool for this is your own horizontal bar or other uncomplicated sports equipment, on which adults and children can train.

How to choose a horizontal bar

There are many options for making outdoor simulators. To decide on the design, you need to understand exactly what you want to get from a sports equipment. For people who are constantly engaged in physical education, this question does not arise - the accumulated experience of regular exercises helps.

What do regular workouts on the horizontal bar give?

Those who do physical education occasionally and do not systematize their skills can be reminded of important points:

1. The horizontal bar is the simplest sports equipment that can be easily made by hand. If there is no desire or time to do this, they buy a finished product in a specialized store, both individually and in a set with other gymnastic apparatus.
2. All people, regardless of age, from the elderly to the youngest representatives, can be happy to engage in the horizontal bar.
3. Classes on this projectile allow the athlete to constantly keep himself in good shape, to be fit and strong.
4. Passive exercises on the horizontal bar help to stretch and relax the spine, relieving tension after working in an uncomfortable position on the plot.
5. For schoolchildren and students, it is extremely useful to perform relaxation exercises after a long sitting at a desk. They help to correct posture and get an additional charge of vivacity as a result of increased blood circulation.
6. Regular training increases endurance and resistance to the increased psychological stress that accompanies us everywhere.
7. A variety of horizontal bar designs, their reasonable combination with other sports equipment are very attractive to young children, which gradually draws them into physical education.
8. Classes in the fresh and clean country air help to strengthen the body and cleanse it of harmful products with which the air of cities is saturated.

Outdoor exercise is healthy and enjoyable

Types of horizontal bars

The choice of design for this simple projectile depends on many factors, including the size of the site. There was a time when its typical area was 4 acres. It is clear that in such territories the construction of a sports town or a simple horizontal bar is not a priority.

Such a device does not take up much space on the site, but allows you to perform a number of warm-up and strength exercises.

1. Horizontal bar with a crossbar on two racks.

   A simple horizontal bar with a crossbar takes up little space, but the possibilities of training on such a projectile are still limited.

2. Gymnastic complex - training methods can be significantly expanded if, together with the horizontal bar, you install parallel bars, a Swedish wall and hang a rope.

   With such a projectile, you can expand the range of exercises for all muscle groups, make training interesting and meaningful.

3. Children's gymnastic complex - the child will be happy to spend time on such simulators, especially if the composition is supplemented with a pendulum swing.

   In order to attract the younger generation to physical education, the gymnastic complex must be designed accordingly and its content should be carefully considered in order to interest the child in training.

Choosing a place for simulators

Before working out the design and composition of the simulators, you need to decide on the location of the gymnastic town. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account the opinion of specialists with experience in similar work:

• the most acceptable place to place the simulators will be the backyard, isolated from the excessive curiosity of passers-by and neighbors;
• the underlying surface of the training ground must be sufficiently elastic to avoid injury from falls. Crumb rubber is the best material. To use it, you need to remove the soil layer of the earth, arrange a drainage layer up to 15 cm thick from sand and gravel, a shock-absorbing litter is also covered with a layer of 15 cm. You can use sawdust and shavings instead of crumbs;
• you need to avoid placing simulators in the sun, as the heat will not allow you to exercise or just spend time with children during the day. You should choose a well-shaded or penumbra side of the site. At the same time, tree branches or bushes should not interfere with classes.

The best place to place your own gym complex is the backyard

Main design features

First of all, you need to decide on the material that will be used in the manufacture of simulators. To do this, it is worth conducting an audit of the remnants of building materials from the construction of a country house.

materials

1. Metal. The most convenient are the remains of the casing pipe from the well device at the site. Mostly for private wells, pipes with a size of 89–146 mm are used; any product from this interval will serve for a long time and reliably. An additional argument in favor of using pipes is the presence of a welding machine in the courtyard and the ability to use it. For the same purpose, you can safely use square pipes left over from the construction of the fence on the site. Applicable dimensions in the range from 80x80 mm to 150x150 mm with a wall of 4–5 mm are ideal for the construction of a horizontal bar. High weldability is ensured by the use of low carbon steel for the production of such products.
2. Wood. Remnants of various wooden profiles are always sufficient after construction is completed. Of course, preference should be given to softwood or hardwood, such as oak, hornbeam, ash and the like. Profiles can be round, square or rectangular. A practical solution can be recognized as the use of glued structures, since they acquire the properties of anisotropy of mechanical properties.
3. Fiberglass. For load-bearing structures, it is possible to successfully use fiberglass profile products, for example, round or square pipes. The advantage is the absolute inertness to corrosion, the cost of protection against it is not required, but painting for design purposes can be considered mandatory.

Photo gallery: horizontal bars from various materials

Tree trunks were used as supports for the unusual design. Metal is the most common material for sports equipment When building a horizontal bar, you can combine metal and plastic Wood is an eco-friendly material, well suited for children's exercise equipment

Dimensions

Dimensions of the main parts for outdoor sports equipment:

• for load-bearing metal structures, pipes with diameters from 89 to 146 mm can be used;
• gripping elements of structures for adults - 32-40 mm, seamless and electric-welded pipes can be used, provided that they are rigidly attached to the supporting structures (welding);
• horizontal bars are best made from a bar with a diameter of up to 40 mm from steel 45. Welding in this case is strictly prohibited.

The value of the penetration of load-bearing elements into the ground must be at least 80 cm, concreting is mandatory. Thus, the length of the horizontal bar racks should be at least three meters.

Step-by-step instructions for making a horizontal bar

To make a horizontal bar on the street, you must perform a series of sequential steps.

Training

1. Develop a draft design of the horizontal bar design.
2. Make sketches of parts with dimensions.
3. Draw up a specification of the required materials for the manufacture of the horizontal bar, including the main products, fasteners, electrodes, materials for protective coatings, fixtures and tools. By adding to this statement the prices of all the listed material assets, you can get an estimate of costs.

This stage should be taken carefully in order to avoid additional costs and not wander around shops and markets in search of previously lost.

harvesting operation

This stage is started after the revision of the available materials and the purchase of the missing. Preparation operations include:

1. Acquisition and delivery of materials and tools.
2. Cutting running materials into workpieces in accordance with the sketches. Parts manufacturing. At this stage, you will need a grinder, a measuring tool, and more, depending on the design.
3. Preparing the workplace for assembly. Installing the slipway. Supply of electric cable for the operation of the tool and welding machine, grounding device.

When cutting materials, it is vital to strictly follow the rules of safe work. Do not work without a protective cover on the grinder, protect your face with a shield. The consequences of breaking these rules can be dire.

At the end of the cutting of metal blanks, it is necessary to carefully process the places of cuts, removing sharp edges and burrs. This can be done with the same grinder or hammer.

Assembly

Before starting this operation, the parts must be laid out on a slipway, first supporting, then auxiliary. In the case of a horizontal bar, you will need two racks and a crossbar. During preparation, you need to choose a method for installing the crossbar and prepare a seat for it in advance.

The crossbar can be fixed in different ways

The upper ends of the pipes must be plugged by welding sheet metal covers to them. Clean welded seams with a grinder or files. Blunt sharp edges.

Before installation, the assembled structure must be protected from the effects of the atmosphere. For this:

1. The lower part, immersed in the ground, is protected from corrosion using bituminous mastic. It can be water-soluble or solvent-based. Both are quite reliable, but the second dries faster. Mastic is applied to the prepared surface (after removing rust) at a distance of about a meter from the lower end. This means that a small part of the treated surface will protrude from the ground.
2. The rest of the structure must be prepared for painting by applying a primer for metal.

Installation

To perform this operation, it is necessary to make two holes in the ground. Their depth is 120 cm, so it is better to use a garden drill with a diameter of 20–25 cm to dig them.

1. Create a drainage layer at the bottom of the recesses. To do this, you need to pour sand into them with a thickness of about 18–20 cm. To precipitate a sandy layer, it must be carefully compacted and spilled with water. On top of it, you need to pour a layer of gravel of medium fraction with a thickness of 10-12 cm and also carefully compact it.
2. Lower the structure with its lower ends into the pits, carefully level and plumb. Secure with temporary braces.

   When installing, you need to carefully align the horizontal bar

3. Prepare a concrete mix of grade 300, which involves the use of cement grade 400, pure river sand in a ratio of 1:4. Water is added until the desired consistency is obtained.
4. Pour concrete into the pits with the projectile installed. Formwork device in this case is optional. In the process of pouring, the concrete mass should be compacted, avoiding the formation of air bubbles. At the end of the pouring, cover the surface with a film. The drying time of concrete is at least 7 days, the end of the crystallization of the mass will occur no earlier than after 28 days. In hot weather, you need to remove the film daily and moisten the surface of the concrete.

   The pits for the horizontal bar supports are poured with concrete

5. If the user of the simulators plans to use it to perform amplitude swing exercises, you need to install stretch marks - two for each post. The angle of inclination of the guy wires with respect to the ground surface should be approximately 30 degrees, the deviation away from the supports is about 15 degrees. For fastening stretch marks at ground level, pits are made in it with a depth of 50-60 cm in diameter along the existing garden drill. A metal anchor is installed in the concrete for fixing the stretch marks.

   Children will be interested in bright colors and unusual designs.

   It is necessary to pay attention to the quality of the ladder rungs. So that the metal surface of the crossbars does not slip and maintains a normal comfortable temperature, it must be rubberized. Neoprene is also used as a protective coating. For safety, wooden beams are carefully processed and coated with a colorless, odorless varnish.

   Video: building a street horizontal bar and do-it-yourself bars

   A street horizontal bar, supplemented with other gymnastic equipment, will help keep fit, and involving children in training will accustom them to an active lifestyle. And most importantly, such a simulator can be built independently, without using expensive materials.

). When soda is added to vinegar, an intensive release of carbon dioxide begins, which we can observe in the form of thousands of bubbles and the resulting foam.

NaHCO 3 + CH 3 COOH → CH 3 COONa + H 2 O + CO 2

soda + acetic acid → sodium acetate + water + carbon dioxide

In cooking (when baking), such a reaction of soda with acetic acid is often found. The carbon dioxide released into the dough "inflates" it, making it porous and "airy".

But how can the reaction of acetic acid and baking soda be used to create a rocket? Now we will find out and consider the example of creating a simple chemical rocket. Let's get started...

MATERIALS AND EQUIPMENT:

0.5 l plastic bottle, sticks or pencils (3 pcs.), baking soda, table vinegar 9%, paper clip, adhesive tape, cork (preferably chemical rubber, but wine is also suitable), tea bag, ribbons(not necessary).

MANUFACTURING:

Step 1.

We glue the legs of our rocket to the bottle with tape. As support legs, you can use pencils of the same length or cut the same branches.

Step 1 a. (optional)

Glue ribbons with adhesive tape to stabilize the flight. Why optional?! From experience we found out that with ribbons the rocket flies much lower due to the greater air resistance.

Step 2

Open the tea bag and pour out its contents. Pour baking soda into an empty tea bag. We tie the bag so that the soda does not spill out. You should get a bag of soda of such thickness that it easily crawls into the neck of a plastic bottle.

Step 3

We attach the soda bag to the cork with a paper clip.

Watch the video, which shows in detail how to make such a rocket ...

FLIGHT PREPARATION AND LAUNCH:

Step 4

Pour vinegar into the bottle to a third of the volume (approximately 150 ml.).

Step 5

Carefully, so that the soda does not wake up in a bottle of vinegar, put the bag of soda in and tightly plug the neck of the bottle with a cork.

IMPORTANT: The cork should fit very tightly, with effort, into the bottle. To do this, you need to choose a cork of the appropriate thickness. The stronger the cork is held, the more pressure will be created inside the bottle during a chemical reaction, and the higher our rocket will fly.

Step 6

We turn our rocket neck down. In this case, the vinegar comes into contact with the soda bag and a chemical reaction begins to take place with an abundant release of carbon dioxide.

About the chemical reaction of the interaction of vinegar and soda, see here

Step 7

We wait about a minute until enough gas is formed to shoot the cork. As a result of the reaction, more and more carbon dioxide is released inside the bottle. Because Because this gas is prevented from escaping by a plugged cork, the pressure of the gas inside the bottle increases. When the critical pressure is reached, the cork, along with the contents of the bottle, is shot down. Under the action of jet thrust, the rocket flies upward.

Such a rocket flies high enough! With a tightly driven traffic jam, the rocket takes off to a height of 20-30 meters (the height of a 9-storey building is ~ 27 meters).

IMPORTANT:

Rockets should only be tested outdoors! Vinegar has a pungent odor, and when you start it, it splatters all over the place.

Do not stand close to the rocket during launch!

Do not point the rocket at people and animals!

In no case do not bend your face over a fueled rocket "just to look" or "to see why it does not take off for a long time"!

By following these simple rules, you can have fun and without consequences launch your own rocket. Good luck!

See below how our rocket was tested in the field...

Making rockets with your own hands from improvised materials is a popular hobby among Westerners. In Russia, home "rocket science" does not have such a high demand, but even here there are enthusiasts. And in most cases, these are not students of technical specialties, but parents of little fidgets and young dreamers. Only loving mothers, fathers and creative teachers-educators know how to make a rocket with their own hands from paper, cardboard, bottles, so that it not only involves the kids in a space journey, but also effectively takes off. Using diagrams and models, bold experimenters will make a rocket that flies from matches and foil. Don't believe? Experience our photo and video tutorials for yourself!

How to make a space rocket with your own hands from improvised materials - a step-by-step master class for children and parents

To give a child a new exciting toy, it is not necessary to visit stores and auctions of expensive children's goods. You can make a bright, interesting and, most importantly, safe little thing with your own hands. For example - an intergalactic rocket for entertaining role-playing games and virtual travel. And our step-by-step master class "How to make a space rocket with your own hands from improvised materials" will simplify and speed up the collective creative process of parents and children.

Necessary materials for a rocket from improvised materials

• plastic bottle
• colored terry sock
• glue gun
• red felt sheet
• thick foil
• cardboard
• scissors
• red and yellow yarn
• tube of paper towels
• thin lace

A step-by-step master class for children on creating a space rocket from improvised materials

1. Wash an empty plastic bottle with warm water and dry it. Pull a colored sock over a clean, dry container. Tie with a thin cord under the bottom of the bottle, and cut off the tail.
2. From red felt, cut out two circles with a diameter of 5 cm. Glue the figures on the finished base of the rocket, imitating portholes. On the red circles, fix the same round parts made of thick foil with a glue gun, but with a smaller diameter. Approximately - 3.5 cm.
3. Draw three "fins" on a sheet of white cardboard. Cut out the shapes and glue point down to the rocket on three sides.
4. From a cardboard tube (from toilet paper or paper towels), cut off a ring, 5-6 cm wide. Wrap the part with thick foil. Wrap the red woolen threads around your palm, then glue the resulting skein on one side to the previously prepared part.
5. Do the same with yellow yarn. So it will turn out to make the lower part of the rocket with decorative flames. Fix the part with a glue gun on the bottom of the bottle. This step-by-step master class for children and parents "How to make a space rocket with your own hands from improvised materials" is completed!

How to make a bright rocket from cardboard and paper with your own hands - diagrams and models

If preschoolers are happy and delighted with a small toy rocket, the size of a bottle, then older kids will like a full-length spacecraft. Own intergalactic ship will allow younger students to feel like real captains and show courage, bravery and courage, as the main features of a male character.

How to make a large model of a rocket out of paper and cardboard with your own hands for a child, see the next master class with diagrams, photos and videos.

Necessary materials for a do-it-yourself paper and cardboard rocket model

• carton boxes
• colored paper
• yogurt cups
• disposable plates
• plastic caps and buttons
• adhesive letters and numbers
• bobbins of thread
• flower pot
• foam circle and pieces of fabric
• letter stencils
• markers
• scissors
• pencil
• satin ribbons
• thick foil
• glue gun

A simple diagram of how to make a do-it-yourself model of a rocket from cardboard and paper

1. Start creating a bright rocket with the help of the kids. Let the kids help you with their favorite toy tools. Use a large box of household appliances as the base of the rocket. Ideally - from the refrigerator.
   
2. Make the top of the rocket out of a painted flower pot, disposable tableware, and plastic bobbins from sewing thread. Decorate the details with pieces of satin ribbons and voluminous stars made of colored paper.
   
3. Cut out a round window in the front wall of the rocket. Wrap the foam circle with multi-colored satin ribbons and glue it to the panel in place of the porthole. Glue a few spools of thread a little higher and mark them with sticky numbers. This will make it easier for the little pilot to count down to launch. Below the porthole, place another instrument panel to make the rocket more interesting.
4. On the right side of the space rocket, equip the fuel cap with bright plastic buttons. For this, plastic bottle caps, spools of thread, old buttons from various devices are useful.
   
5. Don't forget the front door. Draw a large oblong rectangle on the back of the rocket and cut through three sides (bottom, top and right). The remaining left side will serve as a curtain. Decorate the captain's door with decorative elements.
6. On thick cardboard, draw two "legs", cut out the details and paste over them with foil. Fix the elements on the bottom of the right and left walls of the rocket. This completes the spacecraft. You can clearly see how to make a bright rocket out of cardboard and paper with your own hands in the model diagram.

How to make a rocket with your own hands so that it flies - step by step instructions with photos and videos

Even using the most primitive waste materials (candy boxes, cardboard tubes from napkins, etc.), you can make an unusual rocket with your own hands that will fly. Of course, she will not be able to surf the expanses of the universe, but she will boldly go on a journey through the children's room. Use our step-by-step instructions with photos and videos to make a glorious gift for your kids for the significant Cosmonautics Day.

Necessary materials for a do-it-yourself flying paper rocket

• tube of paper towels
• thick cardboard
• scissors
• pencil
• brushes and gouache paints
• permanent marker
• yarn
• straw for drinks

Step-by-step instructions with photos and videos for creating a flying rocket with your own hands

How to make a simple launcher bottle rocket to take off

If the kids have grown up a long time ago and are no longer interested in toy cardboard models, invite them to make a simple rocket with a trigger mechanism that can fly high and effectively. Rest assured, the trick with the launch of the spacecraft will cause wild delight even in an adult. What can we say about impressionable teenagers.

Materials needed for a simple launcher bottle rocket

• thick cardboard
• thin cardboard
• Scotch
• plastic bottle
• plasticine
• wine cork
• pencil
• scissors
• Bicycle Pump

Step-by-step instructions for creating a simple rocket with a trigger

1. Roll a sheet of thin cardboard into a cone. Trim the edge to make the shape even.
   
2. Paste the finished cone with colored tape, this will increase its resistance to water.
   
3. Wash and dry the empty bottle. Paint the container in any color, draw an emblem or leave an inscription if you wish.
   
4. Glue the main part of the rocket - the cone - with liquid silicone to the bottom of the bottle. Try to make the structure as even as possible.
   
5. Cut out 3-4 rectangular triangles from thicker cardboard. Glue the pieces to the bottle. So the rocket will have tail fins. Ideally, the "legs" should end at the level of the extreme point of the neck of the container.
   
6. Weight the bottom of the rocket. To do this, wrap a piece of plasticine around the neck of the bottle and mask the load with adhesive tape.
   
7. Pour 1 liter of water into the bottle.
   
8. Make a thin hole in the wine cork with a needle. The size of the hole should not exceed the diameter of the needle from a bicycle pump.
   
9. Carefully insert the cork into the neck of the bottle. Firmly insert the needle from the bicycle pump so that it does not pop out.
   
10. Take the rocket with the neck up and connect it to the pump. Turn the spacecraft over and set it up so that it does not fly in your direction.
    
11. While holding with your hand, inflate the rocket with air. Then release the craft and continue pumping air. A simple bottle rocket with a launcher will take off as soon as the cork can no longer hold pressure.
    

How to make a rocket from matches, foil and other improvised materials with your own hands on the video

And for those who strive to remember a fun and carefree childhood, being already old enough, we have prepared another master class with a video on making a flying rocket from matches, paper clips and foil. This time you don't have to make crafts from cardboard, paper, bottles and other improvised materials. It is enough just to remember the very unpretentious model that flies, and accurately reproduce it, observing safety precautions. And if you can’t restore the step-by-step instructions in your memory, watch the video “How to make a rocket from matches, foil and other materials with your own hands.”

In this article: how to make a children's swing yourself; stages of creating a sandbox and caring for its filler; building a children's slide - a detailed analysis.

The desire of parents to provide their children with a good rest in the country is natural, but the question is inevitable - how to occupy a child in order to relax on their own? The issue cannot be resolved by just highlighting the playing area in the summer cottage, it is required to equip its landscape with game shells, which in itself is not cheap. We will save and equip the playground with our own hands, building a high-quality and reliable playground on our own.

Children's swing - we build ourselves

In terms of popularity among children and teenagers, the swing is always in the first place, so every playground is simply obliged to have this game equipment. It will help to determine the location of the play area in the summer cottage, but here we will deal with the construction of game shells. The task of constructing a swing can be divided into two subtasks - the installation of the crossbar and the creation of a swing seat, with the cords (racks) holding it fixed on the crossbar.

As a crossbar for a children's swing, you can use a horizontally located branch of a living (not dry!) ​​Tree (of course, the branch should not be dry either), with a thickness of 100 mm and a length of at least 1,200 mm, a height from the ground of at least 2,500 mm. The rope cord of the swing is fastened to the branch through eyebolts passed through the branch through and fixed with bolts, or with a rope loop - a rope made of nylon or hemp thread is laid in half, the laid side is wrapped around the branch, then the ends of both ropes that make up it are threaded inside the loop formed in the fold of the ropes, which allows you to get a self-tightening noose. The rope ends are then threaded into the holes prepared in the seat.

Under the racks for supporting the crossbar, tree trunks located at a distance of at least 1,500 mm from each other, the trunk diameter of which exceeds 300 mm, can be used. The crossbar can be made of a wooden beam with a cross section of 120 mm 2 or more or from a water pipe with a diameter exceeding 500 mm. In principle, it is possible to attach a beam or pipe to tree trunks with 3-4 self-tapping screws 70-100 mm long on each side, however, if the owners of the site are worried that the trees may be harmed, then the crossbar is attached to the trees with a double rope choke.

If there are no suitable trunks in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe summer cottage where it is supposed to mark the playground, you will have to put up vertical racks, connect them with a horizontal crossbar and place the seat mounts on it. The design of the swing will be especially strong if each of its side posts is made not from one vertical, but from two bars arranged in the shape of the letter "A". For each of these racks you will need: 2 beams with a section of 120 mm and a length of 3,000 mm; a bar under a horizontal crossbar, with a section of 100 mm and a length of about 1,100 mm.

First you need to assemble the swing frame structure - a third is selected on the upper parts of each pair of racks, adjusted to the crossbar beam. Then the paired racks are connected to the crossbar on the anchor bolt, under which a hole is pre-drilled. At 1,500 mm from the bottom edge of each post, a horizontal strut is installed on the anchor to increase their rigidity. Further, pits 1,100 mm deep each are torn off under each of the side posts, the distance between the pits of opposite posts is 1,000 mm. At the bottom of each pit, a 100 mm layer of gravel is poured and rammed. The swing frame rises, its racks are inserted into prepared pits - you must first cover the lower part of the racks with hot bitumen or Kuzbass varnish (about 1,200 mm) to protect the wood from decay. Racks are placed - it is necessary to fill the free space in the pits with gravel to the top, then tamp. Fixing the racks in the pits requires special care, because the strength of the entire structure depends on it.

The width of the seat of a children's swing is 400-500 mm, respectively, fastenings to the crossbar under the ropes holding it should be separated from each other by this distance. For fastening the ropes, it is better to use eyebolts with a one-piece eye - in this case, the rope holders of the swing seat are guaranteed not to come off the crossbar. A swing seat can be purchased ready-made, usually made of plastic, made independently or adapted for it by a not too worn tire through four eyebolts passed through. It should be noted that a horizontally fixed tire, which has a very convenient hole in the center, is great as a swing seat - the child will not fall out of it, however, it will be inconvenient for him to swing on his own.

To independently make a seat for a small child that meets all safety conditions, you will need: four pieces of a metal tube with a diameter of 20 mm, two of them are 65 mm long, the remaining two are 125 mm; square board or plywood under the seat, with a thickness of 25 mm and 4000 mm sides; five wooden planks 400 mm long, with a section of 40x50 mm. In the narrower side of the four planks, we drill 10 mm holes, retreating 40 mm from each end. In the remaining bar, we also drill two holes, but already in its wider side. At the corners of the seat board, 40 mm from each side, we drill holes with a diameter of 10 mm. We carefully clean the seat board and slats with sandpaper No. 0, upon completion of this operation, they can be covered with two layers of varnish or oil paint.

We proceed to assemble the elements of the seat and the swing itself - in each of the two holes located on the front side of the seat, we thread the rope and impose several knots on each end so that the ends of the ropes are guaranteed not to slip out of the holes. Assembly is carried out according to the scheme from the front of the seat to its rear. Through each of the two ropes we sequentially thread one tube 125 mm long and one side of the bar with a hole on the 40 mm side (each of them will be the side handles of the seat). Then a bar with holes in the 50 mm side is strung on both ropes (it will protect the child from falling from the swing in the forward direction). Then the rope ends are passed through the eyes of the eyebolts and are freely thrown down.

It's time to assemble the elements of the back side of the seat, strung on the ropes in the following sequence: the ropes are passed through both holes of the first bar (together with the second bar they form the back of the seat); are inserted into the free holes of the side rails; the ropes are threaded through the second bar; each rope is threaded through tubes 65 mm long. Further, the rope ends are passed through the free holes in the back side of the plank intended for the seat, and “temporary” (!) knots are tied on them. Why "temporary"? Because you need to make sure that there is a sufficient distance between the bottom of the seat in its suspended state and the ground, i.e. exceeding 350 mm. But in order to measure this distance, you first need to place the elements of the seat in their correct position, i.e. the backrest, sidewall and front straps must be in place, the seat must be leveled strictly horizontally. After making sure that this distance is quite enough, we form loops on the ropes near the eyes of the eyebolts, connecting both ropes with several passes of wire, a thick rope or a collar.

It is necessary to check the strength of the created swing - we put a load on the seat, the mass of which is three times the weight of the child, we swing it for half an hour, while simultaneously monitoring the behavior of the frame and ropes. After that, we remove the load and evaluate the condition of the seat and, most importantly, the wear of the rope attachment of the swing, measure the distance from the bottom of the seat to the ground - has it decreased (when this distance decreases, the rope needs to be replaced with a better one, i.e. not stretching). If everything is in order, the swing is ready, you can roll the child.

DIY sandbox

Parents for the most part treat the creation of a sandbox with insufficient attention, which ultimately turns into problems both in its design itself and with the health of their beloved child. We will figure out how to properly build a sandbox and take care of it.

The creation of a sandbox begins with the selection of a place and its preparation - a square-shaped area with a side of 1,500 mm is marked out, soil is removed to a depth of 150-200 mm inside its perimeter. Excavation will remove the roots of weeds, otherwise they will germinate and the sandbox will have to be regularly weeded. Then the entire area from which the soil was extracted is covered with geotextiles - a measure, again, preventing the development of weeds. The sides of the sandbox are made of edged boards, with a thickness of 25 mm or more - the height of the side above ground level should be from 150 to 200 mm. Adjacent boards of the boards are connected to each other in half a tree, from the outside, between the overlaps of the boards, a piece of square-section beam with a side of 50 mm is attached to the screws, in addition, the same sections of the beam (to the height of the sandbox board) are mounted in the center of each board. From above, the sides are covered with an edged board with a width of about 150 mm, intended for the seat of children. In the corners, they are joined with a cut at 45 °, fastening to the structure is carried out with self-tapping screws to the mortgages from the timber - the protrusions of the wooden seats inside and outside the perimeter of the sandbox should be the same. After assembling the seats, their corners are rounded and cleaned with sandpaper, all elements of the sandbox are painted in bright colors - red, yellow and blue, it is better if the color is not monophonic, i.e. the sides inside and outside, as well as the seats, should be painted in different colors.

The sand mass is poured into the sandbox with a layer of 200-300 mm, river sand is more suitable - its grain is larger than that of mountain (quarry) sand.

Important: Wet sand must not be poured into the sandbox, i.e. just from the river bank - you need to keep it in the sun for at least two days, keeping children away from it!

The fact is that wet river sand can contain a whole zoo of microorganisms - you can completely destroy them with a few liters of boiling water poured into the sand and then dried under the sun, because. ultraviolet is deadly to microorganisms. So that microorganisms do not start up again in the sandbox, I do not recommend putting a permanent canopy over it - a temporary one is better. But a lid over the sandbox would be appropriate - it will provide some protection from flying debris, animal and bird excrement.

How to build a children's slide

At the stage of designing a children's slide, we focus on the technical requirements of GOST 52169-2003 - safety issues are well covered in it. Structurally, the children's slide consists of three elements - a platform, stairs leading to it and a ramp. Let's figure out how to create each of them and combine them into a safe slide.

The platform itself can become an interesting design in children's games, you just need to create a sufficient area for it. In addition, on the basis of the platform or under it, you can create a game tower if you make a roof over it and sheathe the walls. So, we put a platform with a platform of 1,000 by 1,000 mm, the height from ground level is 2,500 mm. To build it, you will need: a wooden beam under the frame racks, with a section of 150 by 150 mm in the amount of four pieces, each 4,300 mm long; beam with a section of 100 by 50 mm, length 5,000 mm; beam with a section of 50 by 50 mm, length 4,200 mm; edged board 30 mm thick - 1.2 m 2. As with the creation of a swing, it is required to prepare pits for the platform supports - in our case, they will be equidistant from each other by a meter distance, each comes off to a depth of 1,100 mm. Having prepared the pits, we begin to assemble the frame under the platform and connect half-tree bars 150 mm thick in pairs with 100x50 mm meter lengths of timber for three 120 mm self-tapping screws on each side. A ladder will rest on the first connected pair of 150-posts, and a slide slope will rest on the second. They will be connected to each other by a railing beam; before placing it in the foundation pits, it is necessary to cut grooves 40 mm deep under it at a distance of 3,570 from the lower ends of the racks.

After filling a 100 mm layer of gravel at the bottom of the pits and tamping it, we start the first pair of racks in them, fill the gravel into the pits to the top, align the vertical position with a building level or plumb line and, while maintaining verticality, tightly tamp the gravel. Then we proceed to the installation of the second pair of racks and repeat the operations of their installation in the pits. We connect the racks from the side of the stairs with the racks from the side of the slope with a beam under the railing, leading each of its segments into the prepared grooves and securing with two 120 mm self-tapping screws. We lay the edged board on the floor of the platform and install the railing crate - 3 beams with a section of 50 by 50 mm on each side with a step of 300 mm, fixing them with 70 mm self-tapping screws, the heads of which must be drowned flush with the railing. If you are afraid that the child may slip between the crate, then increase the number of the crate timber to 5-6 pieces, reducing the step between them.

Let's take the stairs. To save material and space, we will execute it at an angle of 60 °, bowstrings from a bar with a section of 100 by 50 mm, stair steps from an edged board 30-40 mm thick, the width of each step is 150 mm, the distance between adjacent steps (step height) is 150 mm, railings from timber 75 by 40 mm, crate between steps and railings from 50 mm timber (step - on each step). Grooves are cut in the bowstrings for the horizontal installation of steps, taking into account the angle of elevation and 500 mm width of the stairs, the steps are attached to 70 mm self-tapping screws. The area next to the platform, where the bowstrings of the stairs will rest, is freed from turf and soil to a depth of 15 mm and covered with gravel, then laid with a concrete slab or concreted. The ladder is attached to the platform with two anchor bolts.

A ramp for a children's slide can be purchased separately - depending on the length and height, a finished plastic ramp will cost about 16,000 rubles. Expensive, so we will build the ramp ourselves. With a slide height of 2,500 mm, the minimum length of the slope should be 4,500 mm - it cannot be less, the angle of descent will be too sharp, which is fraught with injuries. In addition, the descent should end with a fall on the ground or sand, and have a gentle end, preferably with a slight upward bend. Getting started - for the frame you will need a beam with a section of 50 by 200 mm and a length of 10,000 mm, a beam with a section of 50 by 100 mm under the crate of the descent, plywood 12 mm thick, sheets of galvanized steel 1.5-2 mm thick. The slope width is 500 mm, we place two pieces of timber 4,000 mm long and with a section of 50 by 200 mm at this distance from each other and fasten 50 mm self-tapping screws on one side of a piece of timber with a section of 50 by 100 mm with a step of no more than 20 mm. The remaining 2 m of a beam with a section of 50 by 200 mm will go to the gentle end of the descent. We install the ribs of the descent with the crate fixed on them to the platform with the help of anchor bolts, without tightening them to the end - the descent structure will have to be removed once in order to fix the crate on the sloping lower part after its construction. The lower part of the descent is not finished yet, so we raise it above the ground using bricks. Now it is necessary to create a gentle descent using the remaining beam - we build up the lower part of the trigger frame with an overlap beam using anchor bolts, bringing the end of the descent not horizontally, but slightly up. Then we fix the crate, under the area of ​​​​contact with the ground we start a concrete slab, after pouring gravel under it and firmly connect the descent frame to the platform.

We form the flooring of the descent of the slide - we fasten plywood on 3.5 mm self-tapping screws, galvanized on top of it. If you use moisture-resistant plywood, then you can do without a surface layer of galvanization. We carefully study the built children's slide - we carefully grind the railings, handrails and the side along the descent, several times we lower a 70-kilogram sandbag down it. After making sure that the created design of the slide is durable and after applying two layers of paint to its elements, we give permission to the children to ride.

Abdyuzhanov Rustam, rmnt.ru

Rocket modeling is an activity that captivates not only children, but also quite mature and successful people, as you can see from the composition of the teams of athletes at the World Championship in rocket modeling sports, which will be held in Lviv on August 23-28. Even NASA employees will come to compete on it. With rockets assembled by myself. In order to make the simplest working model of a rocket with your own hands, special knowledge and skills are not needed - there are a large number of detailed instructions on the Internet. Using them, you can make your own rocket even from paper, even from parts purchased at a hardware store. In this article, we will take a closer look at what rockets are, what they are made of, and how to make a rocket with your own hands. So, in anticipation of the Championship, you can get your own model and even fly it. Who knows, maybe by August you will decide to take part in an out-of-class competition in launching rockets with a payload “Save Space Eggs” (to be held as part of the Championship) and compete for a prize fund of 4,000 euros.

What is a rocket made of?

Any rocket model, regardless of class, necessarily consists of the following parts:

1. Frame. The rest of the elements are attached to it, and the engine and the rescue system are installed inside.
2. Stabilizers. They are attached to the bottom of the rocket body and give it stability in flight.
3. Rescue system. Needed to slow down the free fall of a rocket. It can be in the form of a parachute or a brake band.
4. Head fairing. This is the cone-shaped head of the rocket, which gives it an aerodynamic shape.
5. Guide rings. They are attached to the body on the same axis, they are needed in order to fix the rocket on the launcher.
6. Engine. Responsible for the takeoff of the rocket and is even in the simplest models. They are divided into groups according to the total thrust impulse. You can buy a model engine at a tech store or build your own. But in this article we will focus on the fact that you already have a finished engine.

Not part of a rocket, but a must-have launcher. It can be purchased ready-made or assembled independently from a metal rod on which the rocket is attached and a trigger mechanism. But we will also focus on what launcher you have.

Classes of missiles and their differences

In this section, we will consider the classes of rockets that can be seen with our own eyes at the World Championship in rocket modeling in Lviv. There are nine of them, eight of them are approved by the International Aviation Federation as official for the World Championship, and one - S2 / P - is open not only to athletes, but to everyone who wants to compete.

Rockets for competition or just for yourself can be made from different materials. Paper, plastic, wood, foam, metal. A mandatory requirement is that the materials are not explosive. Those who take rocket modeling seriously use specific materials that have the best performance for rocket purposes, but can be quite expensive or exotic.

The S1 class rocket in the competition must demonstrate the best flight altitude. These are one of the simplest and smallest rockets that take part in competitions. S1, like other missiles, are divided into several subclasses, which are indicated by letters. The closer to the beginning of the alphabet, the lower the total thrust of the engine that is used to launch the rocket.

Class S2 rockets are designed to carry payloads, according to the FAI, a "payload" can be something compact and fragile, with a diameter of 45 millimeters and a weight of 65 grams. For example, a raw chicken egg. A rocket may have one or more parachutes that will bring the payload and rocket back to earth unharmed. Missiles of class S2 cannot have more than one stage and they must not lose a single part in flight. The athlete needs to launch the model to a height of 300 meters and at the same time land it in 60 seconds. But if the cargo is damaged, then the result will not be counted at all. So it's important to strike a balance. The weight of the model with the engine must not exceed 1500 grams, and the weight of the fuel components in the engine must not exceed 200 grams.

S3 rockets may look exactly like S1 rockets to the uninitiated, but their mission in competition is different. S3 are rockets for the duration of the descent using a parachute. The specifics of the competition in this class is that the athlete needs to carry out three rocket launches, using only two models of rockets. Accordingly, at least one of the models still needs to be found after launch, and they often land several kilometers from the launch zone.

For models of this class, parachute diameters usually reach a diameter of 90-100 centimeters. Common materials are fiberglass, balsa wood, cardboard, the nose is made of lightweight plastic. The fins are made from lightweight cork wood and can be covered in fabric or fiberglass.

The S4 class is represented by gliders, which must be in flight for as long as possible. These are "winged" devices, whose appearance is quite different from what you would expect from a rocket. They rise into the sky with the help of an engine. But in gliders it is forbidden to use anything that will give them acceleration or somehow affect soaring, in the sky the device must be kept solely due to its aerodynamic characteristics. The materials for such rockets are usually balsa wood, the wings are made of fiberglass or foam, and balsa wood too, that is, everything that weighs almost nothing.

Class S5 rockets are copy rockets, the purpose of their flight is altitude. The competition takes into account not only the quality of the flight, but also how accurately the participant managed to repeat the body of a real rocket. These are basically two-stage models with a massive launch vehicle and a very narrow nose. They usually go very fast towards the sky.

S6 class rockets are very similar to S3 class rockets, but they eject a brake band (streamer) in flight. In fact, it performs the function of a rescue system. Since rockets of this class also need to stay in the air for as long as possible, the task of the competitor is to create the lightest and yet strong body possible. Models are made of parchment or fiberglass. The nose is made of vacuum plastic, fiberglass, paper, and the stabilizers are made of lightweight balsa wood, which is coated with fiberglass for durability. Ribbons for such missiles are usually made of aluminized lavsna. The tape should intensively "flap" in the wind, resisting falling. Its dimensions usually range from 10x100 centimeters to 13x230 centimeters.

Models of the S7 class require very painstaking work. Like the S5, these models are multi-stage copies of real rockets, but unlike the S5, they are evaluated in flight, among other things, by how plausibly they repeat the launch and flight of a real rocket. Even the colors of the rocket must match the "original". That is, this is the most spectacular and difficult class, do not miss it at the World Championship in rocket modeling! Both juniors and seniors will compete in this class on August 28th. The most popular rocket prototypes are Saturn, Ariane, Zenit 3, and Soyuz. Copies of other missiles also take part in the competition, but as practice shows, they usually show worse results.

The S8 is a cruise gliding radio-controlled rocket. This is one of the most diverse classes, there are significantly different designs and types of materials used. The rocket must take off, make a gliding flight within a certain time. Then it must be planted in the center of a circle with a diameter of 20 meters. The closer the rocket lands to the center, the more bonus points the participant will receive.

The S9 class are rotorcraft and they also compete against each other in the time spent in flight. These are lightweight models made of fiberglass, vacuum plastic and balsa wood. Without an engine, they often weigh about 15 grams. The most intricate part of this class of rockets is the blades, which are usually made from balsa and must be aerodynamically correct. These rockets do not have a rescue system, this effect is achieved due to the autorotation of the blades.

In competitions, rockets of this class, as well as classes S3, S6 and S9, must be at least 40 millimeters in diameter and at least 500 in height. The higher the subclass of the rocket, the larger its dimensions must be. In the case of the most compact S1 rockets, the body diameter should not be less than 18 millimeters, and the length should not be less than 75% of the length of the rocket. These are the most compact models. In general, there are limitations for each class. They are set out in the FAI (Federation Aviation Internationale) code. And before the flight, each model is checked for compliance with the requirements of its class.

Of all the missiles taking part in the current Championship, only models of the S4, S8 and S9 classes are required that none of their parts separate during flight, even on the rescue system. For the rest it is acceptable.

How to make a simple and working rocket model from scrap materials

The easiest rockets to make at home are the S1 class, and the S6 class is also considered relatively simple. But in this section, we will still talk about the first. If you have children, you can make a rocket model together or let them build it themselves.

To make a model you will need:

• two sheets of A4 paper (it is better to choose multi-colored ones so that the rocket looks brighter, the thickness of the paper is about 0.16-0.18 millimeters);
• glue;
• polystyrene foam (instead of it, you can use thick cardboard from which the boxes are made);
• a piece of thin polyethylene, at least 60 cm in diameter;
• ordinary sewing threads;
• stationery gum (as for money);
• a rolling pin or other object of a similar shape, the main thing is to have a smooth surface and a diameter of about 13-14 centimeters;
• a pencil, pen or other object of similar shape with a diameter of 1 centimeter and another with a diameter of 0.8 centimeters;
• ruler;
• compass;
• engine and launcher if you plan to use the rocket for its intended purpose.

On the drawings, which are very numerous on the Internet, you can find rockets with different ratios of the length and width of the body, the "sharpness" of the head fairing and the size of the stabilizers. The text below gives the dimensions of the parts, but if you want, you can use other proportions, as in one of the drawings in the gallery below. The procedure still remains the same. Look at these drawings (especially the last one) if you decide to assemble the model according to the instructions.

Frame

Take one of the saved sheets of paper, measure with a ruler 14 centimeters from the edge (if you don’t get the same volume as ours, just add a couple more millimeters to your figure, they will be needed in order to glue the sheet). Cut off.

Twist the resulting piece of paper around the rolling pin (or whatever you have). The paper must fit perfectly on the object. Glue the sheet directly on the rolling pin so that you get a cylinder. Let the glue dry, in the meantime, take on the manufacture of the head fairing and tail of the rocket.

The head and tail of the rocket

Take the second piece of paper and the compass. Measure 14.5 centimeters with a compass, draw from two diagonally located corners of the circle.

Take a ruler, attach it to the edge of the sheet near the beginning of the circle and measure a point on the circle at a distance of 15 centimeters. Draw a line from the corner to this point and cut out this section. Do the same with the second circle.

Glue the cones from both pieces of paper. At one of the cones, cut off the top by about 3 centimeters. This will be the tail section.

To glue it to the base, make cuts on the bottom of the cone about every centimeter and a depth of 0.5 centimeter. Bend them outward and apply glue to the inside. Then glue it to the rocket body.

To attach the head fairing, you need to make a "ring", thanks to which it will be attached to the base. Take a sheet of the same color you used for the base and cut out a 3x14cm rectangle. Roll it into a cylinder and glue it. The diameter of the ring should be slightly smaller than the diameter of the base of the rocket so that it fits perfectly into it. Glue the ring to the head of the rocket in the same way as you glued the base (just don't cut anything off the cone this time). Insert the second side of the ring into the base of the rocket to check if you have guessed with the diameter.

Let's get back to the tail section. The rocket needs to be stabilized and an engine compartment made. To do this, you need to take the paper again, from which you made the base of the rocket, cut out a 4x10 cm rectangle, find an oblong and round object about 1 cm in diameter and wrap a piece of paper around it, after lubricating it with glue over the entire area so that you end up with a dense multilayer cylinder . On one side of the cylinder, make cuts of 4 millimeters, bend them, apply glue to the inside and glue to the tail.

At the bottom of the rocket should be stabilizers. They can be made from thin sheet foam or, if not available, thick cardboard. You need to cut out four rectangles with sides of 5x6 centimeters. From these rectangles - cut out the clamps. You can choose any shape you like.

Please note that the head fairing, tail cone and engine compartment must be set exactly along the longitudinal axis of the hull (they must not be tilted away from the hull).

rescue system

In order for the rocket to smoothly return to the ground, it needs a rescue system. In this model we are talking about a parachute. Ordinary thin polyethylene can act as a parachute. You can take, for example, a 120-liter package. For our rocket, you need to cut a circle with a diameter of 60 centimeters in it and fix it on the body with slings (about 1 meter long). There should be 16 of them. Strong threads are suitable for the role of slings. Attach the lines to the parachute with adhesive tape at an equal distance from each other.

Fold the parachute in half, then in half again, then squeeze.

To secure the parachute, take another thread, the length of which should be twice the length of the body. Glue it to the engine compartment between the two stabilizers. Tie an elastic band to the thread in two places, so that if you pull the thread, the elastic band stretches, and the thread is a stretch limit (recommendations: tie the elastic band to the thread at a distance of 5 centimeters from the top edge of the case).

Before putting the parachute into the rocket, you need to place a wad. For example, a piece of cotton wool (or soft paper, napkins) can act as a wad. Make a ball out of the material you like and insert it inside the rocket. If you have talcum powder, then sprinkle it with talcum powder to prevent possible ignition due to the charge being triggered. The wad should not be tight, but the amount of cotton wool should be sufficient to push the rescue system out.

Insert it inside the rocket, then put the parachute and lines. Gently, with rings so that they do not get confused.

A streamer can also act as a rescue system, and if you want to make an S6 class rocket, then you can see how to lay and tie it in these photos.

Mounting to the launcher and launch

Cut out two 1.5x3 cm rectangles. Roll them into a cylinder with a diameter of approximately 0.8 centimeters so that the launcher mount passes freely through these cylinders. Glue to the base of the rocket on the same axis at a distance of a few centimeters from the top and bottom of the base.

Install the engine in the engine bay. Ready to launch!

To start, you need a metal rod with a length of at least a meter and a diameter of 4-5 millimeters. It must be strictly vertical to the ground. Regardless of any conditions, the end of the rod must be at least 1.5 meters from the ground to avoid injury to the eyes.

Never try to launch a rocket at home! Even such a seemingly innocent device can cause a lot of trouble indoors. There must be at least 500 meters from the launch site to the nearest houses.

After igniting the engine, move away from the rocket at least 3-5 meters. Spectators, if any, should be at a distance of 10-15 meters. If you plan to entrust the launch to a child under the age of 16, be sure to be near him.

P.S.

Despite the fact that it is not difficult to make the simplest paper rocket, rocket modeling is a serious and interesting sport that requires a lot of work and a lot of time. And also very spectacular. Against the backdrop of growing interest on the part of private companies in space exploration, the popularization of this topic among the population, especially children, is extremely promising. After all, those who have been attracted to space since childhood are more likely to choose it as a field of activity in adulthood. If the topic of space had not been so popular with children in Ukraine several decades ago, then there would hardly be people and companies like us in our country who invest in such a promising industry as space. An event of the level of the Rocket Modeling World Championship could not have taken place - because there would not have been strong teams and a great desire to stir up interest in the industry among the next generations. We have already written about how interesting the Championship promises to be. There, by the way, it will be possible to assemble the rocket yourself from ready-made parts. Come to Lviv, see everything with your own eyes. Detailed information about the event can be found at