Making paving slabs at home, assistance in choosing a technique. Manufacturing technology of paving slabs at home Do-it-yourself paving slabs multi-colored

If the owners plan to equip paths on their suburban area or sites around a private city house, then they will inevitably have to make a decision about what material will do it better and more economically. Today, a fairly popular coating used everywhere has become paving slabs of various colors and configurations.

However, this material, as well as its transportation and unloading, is not cheap, especially during transportation, losses are possible, which means purchasing tiles with a margin, and this will also be extra spending. Therefore, many homeowners are thinking about how to make paving slabs at home and save a decent amount at the same time.

Benefits of making your own tiles

It is quite possible to make this material yourself. Of course, the lack of special equipment and accumulated experience will make this process quite lengthy, but it will save you from searching for a variant that is suitable in terms of pattern and color.

If a decision is made to engage in independent production of paving slabs, then you need to be prepared for a rather laborious work. However, the result obtained from it will exceed all expectations, when the paths or the area near the house will have exactly the look that the owners intended when developing the landscape design of their possessions.

The advantage of home-made is that you can independently create an exclusive version of the tile, which is not produced either on an industrial scale, or in general, or by anyone else.

In the process of developing your own version of a tile, there is always the opportunity to experiment with colors and even shapes, since molds for casting can also be made independently.

Forms for the manufacture of paving slabs

In the event that a tile of the desired configuration was not found in the store, or it was found, but it has a too high price, or its color does not quite suit the owners, then you can always find a way out of this situation by making matrices for its manufacture yourself. Such forms are usually prepared in the amount of several pieces, and already with their help they produce as many paving slabs as will be necessary for the improvement of paths and sites on the site.

paving slabs

For this, only a few copies of the finished tile of any color are purchased, according to which forms are made. In addition to tiles, a board with a beautiful textured pattern, or a stone that you like with its outlines, can be used as an initial sample.

Matrices can be single, that is, designed for one tile, or complex, in which several products are made at once. The second option is more difficult to make, but already during the production of tiles, the work will go much faster.

To make a form, you will need formwork material and, of course, a special composition for casting the matrix.

The formwork is made larger than the size of the original sample by 20 ÷ 30 mm in height and 12 ÷ 15 mm in width. At the same time, it should be taken into account that paving slabs must have a thickness of at least 35 ÷ 60 mm. A plywood box, a cardboard box, or any other material that can withstand the pouring of a plastic mold compound is suitable as a formwork. The matrices themselves are made from a two-component polyurethane-based compound, or from silicone sealant.

Polyurethane mold

In the assortment of hardware stores, you can find several types of compound specifically designed for the manufacture of matrices for gypsum castings, artificial facade stone and paving slabs. One of the most popular of them can be called the domestic composition "Silagerm 5035", as it has excellent technical and physical characteristics. The molding composition is made on the basis of polyurethane and is produced in two hardness parameters - 30 and 40 units. according to the Shore table. Its main indicators are shown in the table

The manufacture of a matrix from a compound is carried out as follows:

• The sample for the manufacture of the matrix must be well washed and dried.
• Further, the original sample and the interior of the prepared formwork are covered with a solution consisting of white spirit and wax. This composition is applied in two layers. It can be replaced with a ready-made wax lubricant.
• Then a two-component mixture is prepared. To do this, a hardener is added to the paste in proportions of 2: 1, and the mass is mixed until smooth. It is very important to observe the proportions, since the correct hardening of the finished material will depend on them.

If a large amount of the mixture is being prepared, then the preparation process is carried out using a drill with a mixer nozzle, but a small volume can be mixed with a spatula. When kneading the mass, the drill turns on at low speed, otherwise the composition will turn out with a large number of air bubbles. If the unmixed components of the compound are not completely used, then the containers with them must be tightly closed with standard lids to prevent contact with air.

• The finished mixture is carefully poured into the formwork, in which the template is laid face up. The filling composition must cover the original sample completely and the thickness of its layer above its upper part must be at least 8÷10 mm.
• Upon completion of the pouring, the formwork should be moved back and forth a little, shaking slightly to rid the mixture of air bubbles. Then, with pouring, it should stand for 5 ÷ 7 minutes - during this time, air bubbles will rise to the surface, and they can be carefully removed with a spatula.
• After 24 hours, the mixture will harden and the mold can be removed from the formwork. However, it is allowed to use it for its intended purpose only after 72 hours, after the material acquires all the qualities declared by the manufacturer. After this time, the form will be able to withstand even the poured mass, heated to 80 ÷ 120 degrees.
• The mold from the compound will last for a long time if, before filling it with a solution for making tiles, it is treated with a special compound "Type 90".

This compound is sold in buckets weighing 1.5 and 7.5 kg.

paving slabs brick

Silicone matrix

The silicone compound can also be two-component, packed in buckets, and requires preparation according to the instructions (generally - similar to the process described above). But you can also use ordinary silicone, which is known to everyone as a sealant. You need to buy it as much as it takes to make the mold, since after opening the package it immediately begins to set. Therefore, the factory packaging of one-component silicone should be opened after the formwork and the original sample are greased and ready for pouring. As a lubricant, ordinary grease is most often used.

A sample of the future tile is laid with the front side up, also lubricated with grease and filled with silicone. The thickness above the top of the source should also be 8÷10 mm.

If a tile made of gypsum is used as a sample, then it must first be treated with several layers of drying oil or varnish.

To distribute silicone over the formwork, a spatula or brush is used, which are dipped in a soap solution prepared in advance.

A thick layer of silicone dries much longer than a compound - this period can be from two weeks to a month, and sometimes more. The duration of the period depends on the thickness and depth of the filled layer. Therefore, it is better to prepare the form for tiles in advance, for example, devoting winter time to this, so that the matrices are guaranteed to be ready for summer, since it is better to work with cement from which paving slabs will be made in the warm season, or at least at a positive temperature .

When the form is ready, it is removed from the formwork and washed well to remove grease. Next, you can start making tiles.

The main parameters of a standard one-component silicone sealant are shown in the table:

It should be noted that if the owners have no desire to engage in the manufacture of matrices on their own, then it can be purchased at a specialized store. However, in this case, the paths on the suburban area may not differ at all from the neighboring ones.

When choosing a ready-made matrix, you should not buy a plastic mold (without special need, as will be discussed below). It is better to give preference to polyurethane, silicone or rubber.

Making paving slabs at home

Not every home has special equipment with which you can quickly and efficiently do. Therefore, further we will consider methods that allow you to make it using improvised means. Of course, special forms are indispensable, and they can be made according to the instructions above or purchased ready-made. Ideally, for high-quality and fast production, it would be good to have a vibrating table. However, as will be shown below, on a small scale it is quite possible to cast tiles without it.

Making square tiles using a plastic mold

Square tiles can be called traditional. It does not go out of fashion, as it gives the paths rigor and accuracy. It is especially important to use this version of the tile to decorate the path leading to the house from the entrance to the site.

Illustration
	In this case, a plastic mold with a size of 300 × 300 mm and a thickness of 30 mm is used to make tiles. The relief pattern of this version of the matrix is ​​​​called "California shagreen". Plastic molds are convenient in that they have sufficient rigidity and do not deform during the laying of the mortar, but it is more difficult to extract the finished product from them due to the same rigidity. In order for the form to last as long as possible, and it was easier to remove the finished tile from it, it is recommended to treat the matrix with grease before pouring the solution.
	To mix the mortar required for one such tile, you will need coarse sand - 3 kg.
	In addition to sand, you need to prepare cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, ordinary tap water 0.5 liters, red color powder 70 g, and plasticizer - 25 ml.
	To mix the solution, you will need to prepare a container - it can be a plastic or enameled bucket. It is not recommended to use a galvanized container, since the dye or plasticizer can cause oxidation, as a result of which the color chosen for the tile can change.
	Sand and cement are poured into the prepared container. In this case, the master chose such a mixing technology, but it will be easier to mix the mass if the dry mixture is prepared in advance - sand and cement are pre-mixed.
	So, sand and cement are thoroughly mixed using a drill with a mixer attachment.
	The next step, in a separate container, water, dry dye and plasticizer are mixed until homogeneous.
	As a result of this mixing, a red liquid should be obtained.
	The finished solution is poured into a dry cement-sand mixture.
	All components are thoroughly mixed with a mixer - this process should be carried out for at least 3 ÷ 5 minutes.
	After kneading, a sufficiently thick viscous coarse-grained mass should be obtained. It will acquire the necessary density in the process of putting it into shape and tamping.
	Next, the resulting mixture is laid out in a greased form. First, half of the finished mixture is laid out in the matrix.
	The mass must be distributed with the greatest possible uniformity in shape, lifting it and shaking the matrix.
	Then the remaining mixture is laid out and first distributed with a spatula or trowel. When filling the matrix with a solution, it must be carefully compacted by pressing with a trowel. Pay special attention to the corners of the form - they must be well filled.
	Further, the matrix is ​​“shaken” for a long time - this process occurs until the mass is compacted to the maximum and forms a completely flat surface. When shaking, air bubbles will come out of the solution. It is advisable to carry out this work until the air stops coming out completely. When the tiles are produced in large quantities, a special vibrating table is used to compact the fills - it greatly facilitates the work. However, if molded products are made for only one track, then it will not be profitable to buy or make a vibrating table on your own. The form is left to harden for 24 hours. This indicator is valid for an air temperature of +20 degrees, and can change upwards in cooler weather - this will have to be determined experimentally.
	After the required period of time has elapsed, the matrix is ​​turned over, and the tile is carefully removed from it.
	If necessary, you can press a little on some areas of the bottom of the form, so that the product is easier to lag behind.
	The result is a neat, smooth tile, but it cannot be used immediately, as it must finally dry out and gain strength. To do this, the tiles are placed on edge and left for at least three days. And the final set of the necessary strength, with the possibility of applying the full load on the laid tiles, will end approximately two weeks after manufacture.

Production of original paving slabs "pine cut" in polyurethane form

The original design of the sites and paths is the laying of wooden round timber on them. However, wood absorbs moisture well, is subject to gradual decay and damage by various insects. Concrete tiles imitating a cut of wood will be an excellent substitute for natural material.

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	This very original version of paving slabs, having a diameter of 300 mm and a thickness of 40 mm, consists of two layers made from solutions of different colors. It is somewhat more difficult to make it than a single-color one, since the work will have to be carried out very carefully, making sure that the solutions do not mix with each other. This tile is called "pine cut" as it imitates the cut round timber of a tree trunk. The inner part has a beige color and the relief of annual rings, while the outer frame repeats the pattern of coarsened pine bark.
	For the manufacture of such products, a polyurethane flexible form is used, which can be made independently using the technology described in the article above. Since the polyurethane matrix does not have the proper rigidity, it must be installed on a perfectly flat surface. For a stand under it, a plywood sheet is usually used, which in the future will help to shake the solution after filling the form. Shaking a flexible matrix filled with a rather heavy solution will be extremely difficult.
	To get a core with "annual rings", for one such tile you will need white cement 100 ÷ 150 g, sand of medium fraction - 300 ÷ 350 g, yellow or beige color - 50 g, plasticizer 20 ÷ 25 ml. and 200÷250 ml. water.
	Water, color and plasticizer are combined in one container and mixed well.
	Next, the resulting solution is poured into a mixture of white cement and sand. All components are well mixed until homogeneous. If necessary, you can add a small amount of water.
	The result should be about 0.5 liters of the finished mixture.
	The mass is laid out in the middle of the form, previously smeared with wax grease. It may seem that it is too small, but this is a misleading impression, since when the mixture is distributed, it will fill all the space intended for it. The mass is distributed only along the inner part of the mold, which imitates the core of a round timber with annual rings. This layer should have a thickness equal to or slightly less than the height of the side that separates the middle part of the "round timber" from the improvised "bark".
	The solution should be thick enough. Therefore, it is first distributed with a spatula, gently pressing it to the bottom of the mold. It is impossible to dilute the mixture, since the mass that will be laid on top of it can mix with the more liquid bottom, and spoil the whole intended effect of the tile.
	Since there is little mixture in the matrix, the mold after the initial distribution is moved back and forth on the surface of the table and gently shaken.
	Further, the mass is again distributed with a spatula, and it is pressed tightly against the mold.
	After that, the matrix with the mixture is shaken again until the mass fills all the space allotted for it. The result should be an even, smooth pancake when viewed from above.
	The next step is to prepare a solution for pouring the framing of the core of the round timber with “bark”. For the mixture intended to form this layer, and indeed the entire main part of the tile, it is necessary to prepare gray cement M-500-D0 - 1 kg, water 0.5 l, plasticizer - 35 gr., brown color 60 ÷ 70 gr., sand coarse fraction 3.5÷4 kg.
	Sand and cement mix well with a mixer. Then, a solution is prepared separately from water, dye and plasticizer.
	Half of the solution is added to the mixture and mixed with the same mixer. During mixing, some or all of the remainder of the solution is added. The mass should be quite thick and crumbly.
	With the help of a trowel, the mixture is laid out in a matrix. First, the edges of the form are filled with it, which will imitate the bark of a tree.
	Then, the mixture is laid out on the entire plane of the container. When the entire composition is laid out, it forms a slide, which must be carefully distributed with a trowel. The form needs to be shaken a little. Since it is quite plastic, a sheet of plywood laid under it will come to the rescue, one of its edges is lifted and shaken, that is, they produce vibrating movements.
	Then, the mixture is again compacted with a trowel, continuing to distribute it.
	The mold filled with the mixture continues to be subjected to vibration until its surface of the solution becomes even and smooth. It should fill the entire relief pattern on the side walls of the matrix. The finished mixture is left in the mold for a day to harden.
	After 24 hours, the matrix is ​​gently inverted.
	Then, the mold is carefully removed from the tile. A polyurethane or silicone matrix has an advantage over a plastic one in that it is much easier to remove it from the finished product, and the risk of damaging it is not so high.
	The finished tile must finally dry and gain strength, this will take at least 2-3 days. When dried, the product will acquire a lighter shade, so if you want to get a rich color, you can add more color. However, it must be taken into account that too much dye makes the solution less durable.
	If it is decided to make a mold for such a tile on your own, then it is necessary to take as a basis natural round timber from any tree you like in terms of texture, with a well-defined structure of coarsened bark. Before pouring silicone or compound in the process of manufacturing the matrix, it is necessary to process the sample, deepening the textured pattern, otherwise the desired effect may not work. Pay attention to the groove between the bark and the wood itself - it also needs to be deepened - as a result, a small rim will appear on the matrix, which helps to carry out high-quality layer-by-layer filling. After laying the tiles, this thin gap will quickly fill with soil and become invisible. You can also carefully fill it yourself with a grout or ordinary cement composition.

Paving slabs made "in place" using a stencil

Another affordable way to equip garden paths is to fill them with concrete mortar using a polypropylene stencil. With the help of this convenient device, it is quite possible to quickly ennoble not only narrow paths, but also entire areas.

This guide can help you figure out how to properly prepare a space for tracks, and how to use a stencil. In addition, attention will be drawn to how the concrete surface can be decorated.

paving slabs

Illustration	Brief description of the operation to be performed
	For such work from the tools you will need to prepare: - building level; - large and small spatula; - Master OK; - bayonet and shovel; - pump-action sprayer; - container for mixing mortar or concrete mixer, - a wheelbarrow is desirable for delivering the mixture to the place of pouring. After familiarization with the work process is carried out, each master can add to the list with tools that are convenient for him, or remove unnecessary ones from the list presented.
	From the materials you need to prepare: - plastic mold for tiles; - cement M-500; - coarse sand; - dye, if you plan to make the tile multi-colored; - black polyethylene for flooring on the ground; - slag or crushed stone of fine fraction. At the same time, it should be borne in mind that from one bag of cement of 50 kg, 6 ÷ 7 slabs with a size of 600 × 600 mm and a thickness of 60 mm can be obtained. This list can be replenished with curbs, since the path will not last long on an unenclosed site - the edges will begin to collapse.
	A few words need to be said about the stencil itself. The design of the form is well thought out - its side walls are wider than the middle ones that separate the tiles. Thanks to this arrangement, after pouring concrete into it and gaining strength, not individual stones are formed, but a solid slab, divided by gaps in the upper part by only ⅔ of the total thickness. Besides? the form should have two technological holes in which handles are fixed, which will help to remove the stencil from the set concrete without any problems.
	In order for the path to serve for a long time and not overgrown with grass, it is necessary to prepare a place for pouring it. To do this, first of all, a fertile soil layer is removed from the marked area, approximately 100 ÷ 120 mm deep. Then, the soil is compacted, and it is advisable to lay a black plastic film on top of it, which will prevent the germinating grass from breaking through. Next, there is a layer of cement-gravel, cement-sand mixture, just sand or slag 50 mm thick. Some save on bedding and make it only 30 mm thick, but this will not be enough. If you do it honestly, then 50 mm is the optimal thickness. This layer is moistened and compacted again.
	If a narrow path is being laid, it is recommended to immediately install curbs. If it is planned to protect the path with curb stones, then they can be installed after the formation of the path.
	Next, a stencil is laid on the prepared place, treated from the inside with engine oil using a brush. In order to save the solution, as well as to increase the strength of the created slab and its peculiar reinforcement, crushed stone of a large fraction can be placed in the inner space of the mold.
	The next step is to mix the cement mortar. It can be made in a concrete mixer or in a container of suitable size. The concrete mixture should be prepared in this way: for 1 kg of cement and 3 kg of coarse sand, 35 gr. plasticizer and, if desired, dye is added.
	If 5 ÷ 6 forms are poured at once, then it is better, of course, to prepare the solution in a concrete mixer. In this case, it is kneaded in the following proportions: for 50 kg of cement, 250 g must be prepared. plasticizer-accelerator, 9 buckets of fine gravel, 6 buckets of clean river sand. Water is added as much as necessary to achieve the desired consistency of the mixture. With such a volume of solution, a concrete mixer designed for 0.3 cubic meters can handle. m. In order to adjust the composition for a smaller concrete mixer, it is necessary to proportionally reduce the component composition. If colored tiles are made, then it is permissible to add color in the amount of 2 to 8% of the amount of cement, depending on how light or dark the paving is supposed to be.
	The prepared solution is filled in the laid form. It is very important that the mixture completely fills the entire space of the stencil. Particular attention must be paid to filling the corners.
	The solution is distributed with a trowel. Thanks to its pointed spatula, the mass will be easy to place in the corners under the stencil webs. It is better to put more mixtures than required than not to report, as the excess is easy to remove with a trowel.
	The solution is leveled on the upper jumpers of the stencil using a wide spatula. Excess mixture is removed with a trowel. It is recommended to level the surface of the future tile to perfect smoothness, as its wear resistance and durability will depend on this.
	After waiting 20 ÷ 30 minutes until the solution sets, the stencil is removed from the tile by grabbing the handles screwed into the technological holes. This must be done very carefully and strictly vertically, since the concrete has not yet completely hardened, and it is likely that one of the corners of the tile will be damaged during an awkward movement.
	The result should be such a concrete slab.
	The form removed from the previous plate is placed next to it, observing a gap of about 10 mm. Then, the stencil is checked with a building level for evenness, and, if necessary, sand bedding or a support of flat stone or ceramic tile is made in one or two corners.
	Further, the process is repeated, that is, crushed stone is placed in the form, then it is filled with a solution that is leveled, and so on, until the entire planned path (site) is closed.
	If the path is framed by curbs already installed along it, then after the coating is completely ready, the gaps between the plates and curbs are also filled with mortar. In addition, the gaps formed between the tiles can also be filled with concrete mortar, covered with sand or soil with seeds of a special lawn grass, which rises by only 30 ÷ 50 mm.
	The gaps between the plates can be left empty. However, it must be taken into account that over time they will become clogged with soil, which may contain weed seeds, and it can subsequently clog the entire path and even contribute to the destruction of the plates.
	If desired, in the process of manufacturing such a coating, it can be decorated with broken ceramic tiles. It is pressed into the solution that has just been poured into the stencil, and then the surface is again leveled with a spatula.
	If you want to add color to the garden plot, then the tile can be made multi-colored by filling the stencil cells with solutions in which different colors are added. This process will take more time and effort, but a site with such interesting paths will always cheer you up. Using several dyes, it is advisable to prepare two or three molds for pouring. So the work will be more efficient, since it is possible to fill areas in several stencils at once with a solution of the same color.

Starting work on arranging paths in this way, it is imperative to take an interest in the weather forecast for the coming days, otherwise all work may go down the drain if it suddenly rains heavily on the very first night after the formation of the paths.

The stencil will greatly facilitate the work on arranging the site. Although this form is quite expensive, but having only two or three such matrices, you can quickly lay paths and ennoble the sites of the entire territory without the involvement of third-party craftsmen.

Another important point. When purchasing a finished tile, you should remember that laying it correctly is not so easy. Therefore, if it is not possible to make paving on your own, you will have to invite specialists and pay them for the work an amount that will at least be equal to the cost of the tile itself.

The stencil will not allow you to make gross mistakes. Even without any experience in this area, any site owner will be able to independently make high-quality neat surfaces. Of course, if all technological recommendations are followed, increased accuracy will be manifested, and the novice master himself will mobilize all his abilities and skills.

Video: the work of the master - the manufacture of paving slabs for natural wood

Now it has become very fashionable to lay out paths and recreation areas with paving slabs, however, not everyone is able to purchase ready-made material due to its high cost. It is quite possible to make this finishing material yourself. In addition, it is possible to make tiles according to your personal requests and needs.

Making pavement tiles with your own hands has many advantages, since the finished product: has an original design, can be of any color, strong enough and durable. The production of pavement tiles is considered to be quite a complex and time-consuming process, especially given the lack of experience in its manufacture. In addition to preparing molds and tools, it is important to correctly calculate the proportions of the solution for pouring.

There are only two types of manufacturing of these products, namely, vibrocompression and vibrocasting.

The manufacture of tiles by vibrocompression involves the use of a thick cement mixture with the addition of a small amount of water. The manufacture of tiles by vibropressing implies the preparation of a mixture in a vibropress. For home-made tiles, the vibrocasting method is most suitable. To produce tiles using this method, you will need a concrete mixer, a vibrating table and molds for casting.

Paving slabs are considered just an ideal option for arranging summer cottages and a country house. Its affordable cost and ease of installation make this material ideal for creating beautiful and comfortable walking paths. This coating has long been considered one of the most beautiful and durable. However, due to the high cost of the finished tile, not many people decide to purchase it. To ennoble your summer cottage or country house, you can make tiles yourself. To make a tile yourself, you first need to prepare the mixture, observing all the required proportions. The recipe for the mixture is quite simple, however, you definitely need to know which components to add and what proportions should be.

To make a mixture you need to take:

• Astringent components;
• Water;
• placeholders;
• Special additives;
• Dye.

Cement is used as a binder. The brand of cement is selected depending on the degree of compressive strength of the component. It is best that the brand of cement is M500. The aggregate can be sand and gravel, or just clean sand is used.

As special additives, a plasticizer or dispersant is used. These mineral additives must be used, as they increase frost resistance and give products greater strength. In addition, they increase the elasticity of the finished tile and give its surface a beautiful glossy sheen.

In the production of tiles, a dye is definitely needed, since if it is used correctly, the durability and attractiveness of the finished product increases. As a percentage, the amount of dyes used should be no more than 4-5% of the total mass of the concrete mixture.

The dyes used should preferably be lightfast, resistant to adverse weather conditions, and insoluble in water. When preparing a concrete mix, it is imperative to distribute the dye evenly. The recipe for preparing a mixture for tiles varies depending on the requirements for the resulting product.

The optimal composition of the mortar for paving slabs

When making tiles on your own, it is important not only to make the product correctly, but also to determine the composition of the solution, which is often quite difficult to do. When preparing a solution, factors such as the type of raw materials used, as well as the conditions for pouring and drying products, must be taken into account. Before you start making tiles, you need to prepare the ingredients, a vibrating table with a perfectly flat surface and shape.

Sand-cement mixture is made from such components as:

• Cement brand M500 white;
• Fine river sand;
• Granite crushed stone fraction 3-5 mm or screenings;
• Water;
• Liquid dye;
• plasticizer;
• Dispersant.

The technology for preparing the mixture is quite simple. Initially, you need to mix the sand well with cement and the prepared plasticizer, and then add crushed stone, which, if desired, can be replaced with screenings. At the very end, in small portions, you need to pour in the liquid. The consistency of the resulting mortar should be strong enough so that it can be easily held on the trowel, however, the mixture should not crumble or crack when lightly tapped on the mold. The consumption of components largely depends on the required characteristics of the finished product, which is why it is calculated separately. Important! Subject to all the required conditions, you can get high quality paving slabs, which will be distinguished by high strength and durability.

How to make paving slabs at home

The most demanded element for paving paths in a country house or in a summer cottage, central squares and city streets is paving slabs or curly paving elements.

The main advantages of FEM are:

• Ease of manufacture;
• Attractive appearance;
• Ease of installation.

The manufacturing technology of the tiles implies that after preparing the mixture, it must be poured into molds located on the vibrating table. Before pouring the mixture, the molds must be lubricated with an oil. The vibration process lasts only a few minutes and its duration depends on the thickness of the tiles.

Excess concrete must be removed with a spatula, and if the mixture sinks heavily in the molds, then you need to add concrete mortar and continue vibrating.

The surface of the mortar is then smoothed out and then the filled molds are transferred to pallets. Depending on the air temperature and size, it is necessary to dry the tiles for 2 to 4 days in a special drying chamber. At the same time, it is necessary to maintain a certain humidity and air temperature. After drying, the molds are placed in an evaporating bath. When carrying out heat-steam treatment, it is necessary to set soft curing modes and the temperature should not exceed 70 ° C. The removal of finished products is carried out on a special table or manually. It is worth remembering that maximum strength occurs only after 28 days.

Do-it-yourself plasticizer for paving slabs

Now there are many options for paving slabs, thanks to the use of special forms in its manufacture and dyes of different colors. Many people prefer to make tiles on their own, but you need to know how many components to take in its production. In addition to the main components, plasticizers are also used.

These substances help:

• Improve the quality of manufactured products;
• Simplify the process of forming tiles;
• Improve the look of the finished product.

In the production of tiles, the plasticizer must be prepared in advance. To do this, dry plasticizer is poured into water heated to 40 ° C in a ratio of 1: 2. Then for 15 minutes the mixture must be mixed using a mixer nozzle. When the solution is ready, it must be left for a while. It is best to prepare the plasticizer in the evening, and in the morning it will only need to be mixed for 15 minutes.

Production of paving slabs (video)

To make the product durable and resistant to negative atmospheric conditions, it is imperative to comply with all the required conditions for the manufacture of tiles and use only high-quality materials.

Every owner who wants his property to look beautiful and be functional tries to do a lot with his own hands. Especially if he is a creative person. From this article you can learn how to make paving slabs with your own hands.

Where is the product used?

In principle, the scope of such material is quite wide. Most often, you can see such products in private areas of residential buildings, cottages, baths or other structures. You can also lay such tiles in gardens, squares, parks and other public places. Naturally, in the latter case, ready-made material is purchased.

Before you begin to understand how to make paving slabs with your own hands, you need to figure out whether it is worth doing it, what advantages the finished product has, what you need to prepare for work. First of all, it must be said that the manufacturing process is not complicated and does not require expensive equipment.

Material advantages

Before you make paving slabs with your own hands, you should consider its advantages. Among them are the following:

originality of elements. During the manufacturing process, you can play with colors and fillers. In this way, you will create exactly the design and shape of the tiles that you yourself want. Naturally, one should be careful here, because the technical characteristics of the product depend on the proportions of the ingredients.

Low cost. Naturally, before you make paving slabs with your own hands, you need to select the necessary materials, which must be of high quality. You should not "buy" for cheap cement.

Relative strength (although you should not lay these elements where the car will drive).

Manufacture of products directly at the installation site.

No need for expensive equipment. However, if you decide to open your own business, then you cannot do without a couple of machines.

Ecological purity.

Resistance to rapid wear and durability (if all manufacturing steps are performed correctly).

Minimum injury risk.

Now consider the question of how to make paving slabs with your own hands.

What materials will be required?

Naturally, all ingredients must be of the highest quality. So, for work you need to prepare:

1. Cement (only the M-500 brand is required, since this type of material allows you to make a mixture that, after hardening, will be very strong).

4. Small stones.

5. Kohler (one or more).

6. Plasticizer (sold in a hardware store).

All ingredients must be free of impurities (garbage, leaves, grass). Also, before you make paving slabs with your own hands, collect all the necessary materials and necessary tools.

Required equipment

So, in order for the manufacturing process to go relatively quickly, you need to take care of all the technical devices in advance that will help speed up the work. So, you will need:

Concrete mixer. If there are several, that's good. In this case, the process will go faster.

Shaping vibrating table. You can also build it yourself. Although this machine is optional.

Form set. It is better if there are several dozen of them.

Tables or shelving that will be set as level as possible. Otherwise, the mixture in the molds may freeze incorrectly, with a skew. Naturally, such elements will already be considered defective, since they cannot be laid evenly.

Tool for pulling finished products out of containers.

Since almost everyone can do it, you should consider the technology of the work.

Features of the choice of form

This question is not difficult. Most often, plastic molds are used for home-made material presented. They may have different sizes. In addition, our construction market represents a huge selection of types of such forms. That is, you have the opportunity to make a very original tile that no one else will have. Naturally, such a container must be strong enough so that it can be used more than once.

Before you do it yourself, you need to decide on the shape of the containers: square, round or some other. If you do not want to buy such material in the store, then you can use ordinary plastic food containers. However, they won't last long.

Features of the preparation of the solution

Before you make paving slabs yourself, you should find out in what proportions you need to mix the ingredients so that later the elements turn out to be of high quality and durable. You will need the following amount of materials for one batch:

It must be mixed thoroughly. And in order for there to be no air in the solution, it will need to be processed on a vibrating table.

Manufacturing instructions

Now consider the question of, in fact, how to make paving slabs yourself. The whole process involves the implementation of several stages that cannot change their sequence:

1. Preparation of the solution. All ingredients must be mixed thoroughly. This can provide Although gravitational works no worse.

2. Filling molds, as well as vibratory compaction of the mixture. This should be done carefully. Filling is done with a conventional shovel. For compaction, you need a vibrating table. His vibrations should not be too strong. That is, make sure that the solution in the form is distributed evenly. Such a seal will make the elements as strong as possible and prevent their delamination. When loading concrete, consider its level. In all forms, it must be the same. To do this, you can simply make marks on the inside of the container.

3. Aging and drying of the elements. Since you want to make paving slabs at home quickly, many manufacturers may violate production technology. The quality of the elements suffers from this. Therefore, it is necessary to maintain the time that is allotted for the aging of concrete and its drying. So, after compaction, the molds with the mixture should “rest” on a flat surface for at least two days. In order for the maturation to go well, and the cement not to crack due to moisture loss, the containers should be well wrapped with plastic wrap.

4. Removal of finished products from molds. Now you understand how to make paving slabs at home, you also know the composition of the mixture. However, you should consider how to properly remove the finished elements from the molds so that they do not break or crack. To do this, it is better to place them in a bath of water, the temperature of which will be no more than 70 degrees.

5. Warehousing products. In order for the concrete to dry quietly further, it is necessary to cover the tile with a shrink film.

After all these steps, the product is almost ready for installation. Naturally, he should be given time to gain strength. It is best to leave the material alone for a few weeks. Now you understand how to make paving slabs at home.

What is a "plastic bottle tile"?

The problem of recycling is very relevant today. However, a way has been devised to use plastic bottles, which involves reducing the degree of environmental pollution. They learned how to make paving slabs from them. Moreover, this process can take place both at home and at work.

Before you make paving slabs from plastic bottles, you should consider the features of this procedure. Its advantage is the low cost of the product, as well as the absence of problems with the amount of raw materials.

The production of such material is divided into the following stages:

Grinding of raw materials.

Melting plastic in a special heating apparatus and mixing it with raw sand and pigment.

Pouring the resulting solution into molds and pressing.

Cooling tiles.

It should be noted that such a product is characterized by durability, high strength and resistance to abrasion, external beauty, a variety of shapes, and speed of production.

Making paving slabs with your own hands is not very difficult. However, the process has some nuances. For example, if you want to save a lot of color, you can use the layer-by-layer casting technique. Naturally, in this case, you will need two concrete mixers. Layers are stacked alternately, and colorless should be inside. The thickness of each is 1-2 cm.

If you have defective pieces of tile, then it can be broken and reused in the solution. New forms can be treated with a special substance so that later the concrete moves away from the walls better. After use, the plastic must be washed with a weak solution of hydrochloric acid. Forms for work can be made independently using silicone or wood. Naturally, these elements will need to be well fastened before work.

Please note that the plasticizer helps to increase the strength of the elements, as well as their resistance to temperature changes. However, don't add too much. For the manufacture of the presented building material, not only concrete can be used.

Now you know how to make paving slabs at home. Good luck!

Forms for making tiles with your own hands, which ones to choose?

Sometimes it happens that ideas lie on the surface, and we simply do not notice them. So it is in this case. When wondering how to make a tile with your own hands, the first thing that comes to mind is to buy ready-made forms. But it is not necessary to do this either.

Now a lot of products in stores are sold in such transparent plastic containers. These are fruits, and various frozen semi-finished products, as well as a variety of confectionery products - cakes, pies, puffs. These forms are suitable for making tiles yourself as well as possible. They are durable and can withstand several cycles of concrete tile casting. By the way, I used in the form of molds for making tiles, containers of marmalade worms - there are such sweets, many probably know - I bought them more than once for my grandchildren.

The very first store I turned to for help in finding these “forms” supplied me with such quantities that it was enough to make about 10 square meters of tiles in 2 sittings, after which I broke only one such “home-made form” and then from - for their own carelessness. Moreover, not only did they not take the money, but they also said thank you and expressed a desire to come again.

My neighbor in the garden plot, looking at my work, went even further. He obtained a bag of colored and clear plastic granules, which are used to make plastic bottles, and adds them in varying proportions to the concrete mix. The tile is varied and beautiful. He paved the path in the garden with such tiles with his own hands (he laid it in the center), and along the edges he laid ordinary gray tiles without granules (also home-made).

For forms for homemade tiles, the requirements are also the most common - strength and the required amount.

I advise you to choose forms that are not crispy, but soft to the touch, the material resembles silicone. Also, on my own behalf, I can advise you not to choose completely outlandish forms - design by design and unusualness by unusualness, but it will be difficult for a novice master to lay such tiles with his own hands.

In order to better dock the tiles together, select shapes with smooth edges.

That’s why I chose the molds from under the gummy worms, because they have an angle of almost 90 degrees and it’s a pleasure to lay the tiles, and garbage doesn’t fall into the joints between the tiles, and therefore it’s also very easy to sweep the paths from homemade tiles.

Using the same method, it is easy to make not only tiles, but also borders to limit them to a section of a path, or a yard. Forms for home-made concrete curbs will also not be difficult to pick up.

How to make concrete paving slabs with your own hands - step by step instructions:

1. Mix cement and sand in proportions of one to three. Cement for the manufacture of tile mortar, take at least brand 500. (More on making concrete with your own hands).
2. Gradually add water to the solution while stirring it. The consistency of the solution should be pasty - do not slip off the trowel.
3. Lubricate the inside surfaces of the tile molds with oil - this will make it easier for you to remove the finished tile when it dries.
4. Now fill the tile mold with concrete mortar. Do this with pressure so that the form is filled evenly and densely. With smoothing the back side of the tile, you can not be zealous - more irregularities "at the bottom" - the adhesion will be better during the subsequent laying of the tile.
5. Now you can still just in case shake the form to be sure that the concrete has dispersed over it. Everything, now you can put the future homemade tiles to dry. I recommend putting it on drying under a canopy, that is, avoid direct sunlight.
6. After a week, you can remove the tile from the mold and put it to dry under the same canopy. The second stage of drying the tiles can take up to a month for our homemade tiles to acquire the necessary strength and durability. I recommend laying it out to dry on sheets of stainless steel - it will be easier to remove, especially if you put it still raw.

Do-it-yourself path from concrete forms

The path, stylized as if paved with stones or cobblestones, has become nowhere easier to make with your own hands. True, it will be more difficult to get forms for such a path than in the first case, when we talked about making simple concrete paving slabs with our own hands.

The formwork for pouring paths in the garden can be made ordinary, rectangular.

Make a height of six or seven centimeters, this will be enough. You can also make a simple form measuring 50 x 50 cm, and it can make 4 tiles at once.

The process of making tiles is simple - just lay the mold in the place that you plan to ennoble and decorate. It is better, of course, to prepare the base in advance, remove bumps and grass. If you want to get a monolithic coating (for example, pour a solid path), then pour this place with a thin layer of concrete and only then use the tile mold. Then fill the molds with the solution. Do not forget to compact the solution tightly in the molds, then level the solution with a trowel or trowel. Remove the mold and repeat the whole process in a new location. You can fill the gaps between such a home-made pseudo tile with more liquid concrete - the construction of the path will be stronger, the seams between the tiles can be aligned with a brick joint - it just fit in width for me.

We use metal formwork to build a concrete path in the garden

1. Building a concrete path with your own hands using metal formwork is not difficult even for a novice builder.
2. We remove the soil in the place where the garden path is planned.
3. We press hoops into the ground
4. We take out the soil from the middle of each hoop and fill the hoop with the same earth from the outside
5. We tamp and pour water
6. We pour sand into this finished formwork (the height of the sand layer should be 5-7 centimeters - depending on the evenness of the path and the amount of land removed).
7. We also level the poured sand with a trowel and tamp it down, add a little water - just to slightly moisten it.
8. All this is filled with a layer of concrete. I recommend a concrete solution of this composition - for 1 part of cement and 1 part of water - 4 parts of sand. Less sand is possible - there is no cement - otherwise you will get not a concrete, but the most ordinary dirt track.
9. Too large stones can be additionally strengthened if they are additionally reinforced with any small metal scraps, pieces of wire or metal mesh. I add reinforcement without fail, it’s still more reliable.

If there is a need or desire, dyes can be added to the concrete solution to give the walkway the look of natural stone. Artificial and decorative cracks and dents, protrusions and depressions will give concrete an even greater similarity with natural stone. They are easy to make even with one trowel. The edges of the stones can begin to be hemmed the next morning. Until the concrete solution has gained strength, the paths must be well shed with water. So that the concrete garden path does not crack, I do not recommend doing work on its construction on especially hot days - you will not have time to water it.

It is also possible to decorate a garden path from artificial concrete stones if immediately after casting, until the concrete has seized to lay out various patterns of tiles, glass and small pebbles in still wet concrete.

How to make flower girls out of concrete.

By the way, from concrete and its remnants (even those that remained after the casting of paving slabs) for the garden, you can make not only home-made tiles, but also such concrete flower girls that are deliberately made somewhat rough in appearance to give additional zest to paving slab paths.

You will need:

1. fine-grained concrete
2. trowel
3. wooden stick
4. 4 plastic buckets of different sizes
5. weights (e.g. large stones)
6. sunflower oil or vaseline,
7. brush

So, in order to decorate your garden with flower girls cast from concrete with your own hands, grease the buckets with sunflower oil so that later the finished flower girls can be easily removed from the mold: a large bucket is inside, a small one is outside.

Mix the concrete according to the manufacturer's instructions, stir with a trowel or a clean wooden stick. Pour the mass into a large bucket, without topping up a few centimeters to the brim so that the concrete does not overflow over the edges when you place the small bucket inside. Insert a small bucket into a large bucket, pressing the concrete mass, and put a load in it so that it does not move. After 2 days, the concrete will harden and it will be possible to carefully remove the buckets.

When creating a garden design project for a personal plot, you always want to make it original and unique. Paved paths - one of the main elements of a country house - can be made of various materials (door cut, gravel, natural stone). However, paving slabs have gained the greatest popularity due to their presentable appearance and wide functionality and high quality of the material.

You can purchase design elements in the store, but it is much more profitable to make paving slabs with your own hands.

Do-it-yourself paving slabs: advantages

Making paving slabs yourself is very difficult - this is a laborious process that takes a lot of time. At the same time, making them is quite exciting. As a result, you get an exclusive tile laid in a single composition of the backyard path.

Another great advantage of do-it-yourself tiles is the cheapness of the method. Forming paving slabs with your own hands is several times cheaper than buying ready-made material.

Almost certainly, do-it-yourself tiles will not be able to withstand the load of sites designed to accommodate heavy vehicles and buildings. But for backyard paths it is best suited. Subject to the technique of all stages of production and the preparation of the concrete solution, the tile will serve you for quite a long time.

You can try to "play" with shades and get original and unique combinations.

How to make backyard paving slabs with your own hands

• Material selection

For the production of paving slabs in a country house or a country house, you need:

• Dry cement mix
• Sand
• Water

Mixing the solution in the required proportions is carried out according to the instructions attached to the cement. For the durability of the tile, use cement with an M500 marker as the most durable material.

Water and sand must not contain impurities. Although it is permissible to include small pebbles in the sand. From them, your product will acquire the original texture, and the quality of the mixture will not suffer.

Use plasticizers to strengthen paving slabs and resist temperature changes.

To create a unique tile shape, purchase silicone molds in a specialized store. They are designed for about two hundred fillings. To speed up the process, it is better to purchase several forms.

A budget option for molds is plastic food storage containers. They are flexible and plastic and will fit perfectly in order to make the tiles for the site yourself. With the help of containers you can get tiles in the form of bricks

• How to prepare a solution

Mixing the solution can be done by hand or using a screwdriver with a nozzle in the form of a mixer. For the manufacture of a large number of tiles, it is better to stock up on a concrete mixer.

To obtain a homogeneous mixture, sand must be poured into a rotating concrete mixer, then cement. As a rule, cement and sand are mixed in proportions 1:3 respectively.

Water should be added gradually, continuously stirring the entire mixture. Do not overdo it - too much water will cause a decrease in the quality of the finished concrete. To provide for this process, lyophobic additives and a reinforcing mixture are introduced into the solution.

The final consistency of the solution should resemble dough - be slightly liquid, but not drain from the trowel.

The coloring of the mixture is carried out with the help of special coloring pigments that will retain their shade in any weather and atmospheric conditions. Start adding dye to the concrete mixer ( 30-60 grams). Gradually increase the proportion. Concrete will become uniform in color after 5-10 minutes. The finished solution should not have lumps

• How to pour concrete into a mold yourself

Before pouring the solution into the mold, it is necessary to pre-treat its inner surface with any oily substance. Even used engine oil is suitable for these purposes. Thanks to this, you can easily separate the finished tile from the mold.

It is possible to extend the service life of paving slabs by adding a metal mesh or wire inside the solution. First, pour a small amount of the mixture into the mold, place the metal frame in it, then add the remaining volume of concrete to the edge of the mold.

Use vibration to remove air bubbles from the mixture in the mold. It is convenient to use a vibrating table in this case. But an ordinary shelf or plywood rack will also work. Make a few taps with the trowel handle on the shelf - vibration is created

• How to properly dry tiles

Cover the filled forms with polyethylene and leave for two to three days. During this period, try to maintain the necessary humidity - over time, moisten the dried concrete with a small amount of water.

The sun's rays should not fall on the drying solution in molds

• Stripping

In order to separate the tile from the mold, it is necessary to immerse the hardened mixture in hot water and hold it there for at least 10 minutes. The mold will move away from the plate on its own.

If the casting was made "in place", and the mold does not move away in any way, do not try to heat the junction with a hairdryer. This will only strengthen the bond. In this case, the mold must be turned over and the tile shaken out of it. Next, we arrange each of them in their places. If there is a chip, then fix this place a little later.

The brine will help to completely wash the mold after, followed by washing the frame with water

• Exposure of paving slabs

It is impossible to use concrete paving slabs right away - at this moment it is still quite fragile and can break at the edges. Concrete becomes strong after 5-7 days.

Lay the finished tiles under a canopy in the fresh air and leave to dry for a week. If the paving slabs were organized on site, be sure to make a canopy of plastic wrap over it.

DIY paving slabs: video

For a better understanding of the tile manufacturing process, watch the video clip with a detailed description of all stages of work.

Variety of paving slabs

Luminous tiles are very convenient - they will allow you to avoid unpleasant situations associated with moving along the path in the dark.

Rubber tiles are used for paving playgrounds and pool edges.

Plastic paving slabs are also very popular. They are much cheaper and stronger than cement, and also do not harm the environment. However, plastic is subject to fading in direct sunlight, and also "spreads" on the ground over time.