How to transplant peonies correctly? When is the best time to do this? How to transplant peonies in summer? Adhere to the work algorithm. Pit preparation for peonies

When to transplant peonies and how to do it, this article will tell. Follow the recommendations, and your favorite flowers will easily survive the rejuvenation procedure.

Any florist knows that a peony is an unpretentious plant, and in normal conditions up to ten years does not require a transplant. However, if you want to rejuvenate, and at the same time multiply old bush, it is worth having an idea how to do it right. The wrong time for work can deprive you of the opportunity to admire the delicate lush peony flowers for a long time, and mistakes during transplantation, typical of inexperienced summer residents, can completely destroy a noble plant. To prevent this from happening, follow the recommendations below.

When can peonies be transplanted?

The best time to transplant peonies is the so-called velvet season, the border of summer and autumn. But if you didn't manage to do it in time, wait until spring.

As mentioned above, the most favorable period for transplanting peonies is the end of August and the beginning of September while it's still warm and it's not raining. In this case, the plant will survive the “moving to a new place of residence” most painlessly, and will bloom the next summer. During the winter, the root will get used to the new soil, and as soon as the snow melts, it will actively germinate and absorb moisture.

You can also transplant peonies in the spring - but then the bush will hurt all summer, and it is unlikely that flowers will appear on it. It will have to be handled with special care; in this case, it is not recommended to separate the rhizome for propagation. In fact, a spring transplant is justified only in one case - when the plant is threatened by something more dangerous than the difficulty of adapting to new soil. For example, if you notice that its roots are gnawed by mice or moles.

In late spring and summer, when it is already hot, peonies cannot be transplanted. At this time, there are still no suction roots on the rhizome (they appear later, just at the end of August), but there are already fragile buds that will release new shoots next year. The state of the plant can be compared to pregnancy: in summer, organic processes are more focused on preparing for the next generation of peonies, and not on maintaining and strengthening the old bush. That is, the peony is almost 100% likely to die in the new soil, since it simply cannot eat: the rhizome during transplantation is at least minimal, but suffers - and will not be able to recover quickly in the summer.

A few words about how to properly transplant peonies without damaging the rhizome. For beginner growers, this information will certainly be useful.

When to transplant peonies, figured out - now let's talk about how it's done. In fact, the process is simple: if you have at least minimal breeding experience perennials you won't have any difficulties. First of all, we prepare the pits in advance (about two weeks before the transplant), in depth and in diameter - about half a meter, at a distance of about a meter from each other. If you want to create artificial drainage, dig deeper than 15-20 centimeters, cover the bottom with sand or small pebbles. The pit should be watered several times so that the soil settles better.

The soil surrounding the freshly transplanted rhizome should be "fatty", well fertilized. Prepare it, too, in advance by mixing black soil with ash, manure, humus, peat, sand - in equal proportions. You can also add a little iron sulfate, urea and double superphosphate. Before planting, we fall asleep all this in a hole almost to the top and mix it with garden soil.

We cut off the stems, leaving a palm-length “tail” - now we will take out the rhizome from the old place. How to properly transplant peonies without damaging its underground part? This is quite difficult, especially if the bush is more than eight years old. Better to use a pitchfork than a shovel- the latter will simply chop the roots, which we do not need at all. Dig in the bush carefully, at a significant distance from the stem: if you feel an obstacle, retreat even further and try again. They removed the rhizome - wash it and inspect it. If you notice traces of decay somewhere, this place must be carefully removed with a clean knife and treated with a solution of potassium permanganate. In general, any sections are disinfected, as well as the tool with which they are produced. Not superfluous measure will also be to process the entire rhizome, for a few minutes lowering it into a container with a weak aqueous solution manganese, and then dried.

The rhizomes of peonies transplanted in the spring are not washed or disinfected. Also, it is worth recalling that they are not recommended to be separated. From a root dug out in the fall, two or more separate plants can be made. Count the buds: if there are more than six, the peony is suitable for reproduction. How many pions you get in the end depends on the age of the bush - but always adhere to the following rule: Each division must have at least three buds.. Cut the delenki from the common rhizome with a sharp disinfected knife, checking for rot on the cut. Found - remove it and treat the "wound" with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Each division is placed in a separate hole so that the kidneys are at a depth of 3-5 cm from the surface. If the root is deeper, such a peony will not bloom, if it is higher, it will freeze in winter. Cover it with earth and compact it with your hands, then water it generously. That's it, now we are waiting for the peony to take root and grow - if you did everything right, it will delight you for many years to come.

You may be interested in other articles on floriculture:

1. Everything (planting, pinching, transplanting, etc.)

2. In the article about, you can learn about what to do if they have faded.

3. you will learn about orchid propagation methods, as well as how to implement each of them

Not all summer residents know how to properly divide and plant peonies, properly care for them. But without this knowledge, in a few years it will not be possible to enjoy lush bloom these amazing plants.

Wild peonies feel great in one place for more than 50 years and do not require special care. At the same time, the hybrid varieties that summer residents grow in flower beds need regular transplantation - at least once every 10 years. Peonies are also divided and planted, but only plants aged 4-5 years are suitable for this. However, for rejuvenation, healing and reproduction of the bush, transplantation should be carried out more often and at the same time get acquainted with all the subtleties this process. And in this we will help you now.

When can I divide and transplant peonies

The best time for dividing and transplanting peonies so that they bloom better is the "velvet season" in late August - early September. At this time, it is still quite warm and it does not rain, and the plant has time to take root and adapt to the new composition of the soil over the winter. However, the timing of the division may shift depending on climatic conditions and the specific region. For example, for St. Petersburg and Leningrad region the deadline for transplantation is September 10-15, for the southern regions - September 20-30. Peonies planted during these periods more easily endure the "moving" to a new place of residence and by the next summer they will give you an abundance of flowers.

Pion transplantation should be carried out only after flowering plants.

Sometimes you can find tips for transplanting peonies in the spring. This is an extreme measure, relevant only when the plant is threatened by something more serious than transplanting to a new place (for example, an attack by rodents or pests). It is not recommended to plant peonies in the spring, as they begin to get sick more often and flowers are almost not tied on them.

Pruning peonies after flowering

The "transitional" moment in the life of peonies is the flowering process. They usually fade in late May - early June, and flower growers do not always accept correct solution concerning further care behind the plant. So, what to do after the peonies have faded? There are two completely opposite opinions on this matter:

• it is absolutely impossible to prune peonies after flowering, because it is at this time that flower buds are formed, which turn into luxurious flowers for the next year;
• it is necessary to prune peonies after flowering almost immediately in order to prevent the development of diseases and the penetration of pests, as well as to rejuvenate and preserve the aesthetic beauty of the bush.

In our opinion, it is more preferable to avoid pruning flower stalks immediately after flowering. It is better to do this just before removing the bush from the ground. Firstly, you immediately stimulate the growth of the plant, cutting off all the stems almost to the base and leaving only small shoots 5-7 cm long. Secondly, you make your work easier by performing all the necessary operations in one step - both pruning and transplanting. In addition, extracting a clod of earth with a root system and several sprouts is easier and more convenient than a huge and sprawling bush.

Do not forget to take the leaves and stems outside the garden and burn them - in plant remains harmful bacteria and fungi like to settle.

Digging and rinsing peonies

Difficulties with digging up peonies are associated with the peculiarities of their root system. Usually for 4-5 years it grows to a great depth, individual rhizomes reach a length of 30 cm or more. The tips of the roots are most often thin and go even deeper into the soil. It is very difficult to dig them out without damage, so a few recommendations should be considered:

1. Dig up peonies in dry and warm weather so that the clod of earth that you will take out along with the roots is not too heavy;

2. Install the shovel 30-40 cm from the center of the bush and place it vertically. If you place it obliquely, you will most likely cut off the tips of the roots;

3. Dig around the bush from all sides and carefully remove it from the ground. You can put a stop, for example, a brick, under the tray of a shovel or the teeth of a garden fork. Thus, the shovel will play the role of a lever. Do not apply too much force, otherwise the tool may be broken. It is better to carefully dig the bush again;

4. In no case do not pull the peony by the leaves (especially if the bush is more than 5-6 years old). Do not forget that the stems must be cut before digging, leaving stumps 5-10 cm high. It is for them, smoothly and effortlessly, that the plant should be pulled out;

Even if you did everything right, some of the roots will be damaged anyway. Clean the rhizome from clods of earth and rinse it thoroughly under running water, since a clean base is easier to mark and divide. This is also necessary in order to assess the condition of the kidneys and roots. After all, if in last years the plant has stopped blooming, it is likely that it has already begun to rot.

Peony division

Division is an important part of the "life" of a peony. This is a kind of rejuvenating procedure that allows you to rid the plant of dry and dead residues, foci of rot and rodent damage, as well as to stimulate further flowering.

To divide the roots you need a garden or durable kitchen knife, secateurs, and sometimes even a hatchet with a hammer.

Start dividing the peony about a day after the rhizome is removed from the ground. During this time, it should dry out a little. Before dividing the peony, carefully inspect the root system. From each stem leaves from 1 to 3 buds. From them develops root system, which can be considered isolated, since it lags slightly behind the massive rhizome. It is these small delenki with one kidney that can be used in the first place, especially if you want to get a small flowering bush the very next year.

If you decide to share a piece with 2-3 buds, this does not mean that the bush will automatically bloom more magnificently and more abundantly. On the contrary, in this case, the plant will spend more energy on healing tissues in the places of pruning, but the likelihood of root rot will increase significantly.

On some roots, traces of the "barbaric activity" of mice will immediately become noticeable. They literally gnaw out large pieces of sweet and juicy roots. Such damaged roots cannot be transferred to a new place and, moreover, divided and transplanted.

IN further process division looks like this:

• first of all, separate single buds with a small root system. Sometimes they literally lag behind the base themselves, and they only need to be trimmed slightly. Make sure that a sufficient number of thin suction roots leave the kidney, which will help the plant survive the winter and provide it with nutrients in the spring;

• remove the dead parts and sprinkle the cuts with charcoal. Grind them so that a dense layer of coal forms. This will help prevent the entry of pests;

• in the future, choose parts consisting of 2-3 growth buds. Try to carry out the division, holding the bush in weight, since the roots of the base are quite fragile, and if you put the bush on them, you can damage the entire rhizome. Keep in mind that the roots of an adult peony are very juicy and dense, and they must be carefully cut and actively torn apart with your hands, while trying not to damage;

• remove old and dry stems, and rub all cuts with charcoal. Cut out rotten and rodent-damaged parts. Remove old and twisted rhizomes. From one bush aged 4-6 years, you can get 3-4 pieces of different sizes;

Planting a peony in open ground

Ideally, pits for peonies are prepared 3-4 months before the proposed transplant. The diameter of the landing pit is selected depending on the size of the division. But since it is impossible to predict the size of the division in advance, one should start from standard sizes pits. The average diameter of the pit is 40-50 cm, and the depth is 50-60 cm. Planting pits of large diameter are made in order to fill them with a nutrient composition.

For fertilizer, 20 kg of humus or peat are placed at the bottom of the pit. Also contribute about 300 g of bone meal or 200 g of superphosphate. Then it all falls asleep fertile soil. For clay soils a bucket of sand is added to the contents, for sandy soil - a bucket of clay.

After fertilizing the planting pit, you need to let the soil settle so that the delenka does not go deep into the ground. If there is no time for shrinkage, you can compact the soil and spill it with water (if it has not rained for the last 7-10 days). The resulting pit should be of such depth that the kidneys of the delenka are 5 cm below ground level. If you plant a peony higher, leaving the buds on the surface or at ground level, they are likely to freeze slightly. If, on the contrary, they are deepened, the pion will not have enough strength to drive the buds to the surface.

When planting, lay the delenka slightly to one side so that the plant can form buds on its own.

When planting without tamping the nutrient mixture, plant the peony a little higher, given that the soil will settle.

Then fill the hole with soil and spill the soil to eliminate the "air voids". After the water has been absorbed, mulch the planting site with dry compost.

Considering that peonies form a powerful and branched root system, with a continuous planting, each plant should be given enough free space. Therefore, the distance from the center of one bush to the center of another should be at least 60-80 cm. The landing site should be well lit and protected from the wind. Peonies should not be planted near the walls of houses and in the shade of trees.

The best plants-neighbors of peonies

Creating a beautiful flower arrangement led by peonies will require you to plant some other plants that go well with them. Most often, the following flowers act as neighbors of peonies:

• daffodils;
• tulips;
• grouse;
• Pushkinia;
• phloxes;
• lilies;
• delphiniums;
• geranium;
• cuff;
• geleniums;
• irises;
• clematis.

How to feed peonies in spring and summer

In spring, peonies actively begin to grow and absorb nutrients from the soil. First of all, the plant needs nitrogen as the basis of its vital activity. Nitrogen supplements they are used from the end of April to the beginning of June, and in total no more than three such top dressings are made:

• first dressing carried out at the beginning of the growth of the bush. Most often, natural organic fertilizers are used - fresh mullein or bird droppings. In 10 liters of water, dilute 1 liter of mullein or bird droppings. You can also add potassium - in the form of 1 cup of ash or 30 potassium salt. The solution is thoroughly mixed and allowed to infuse for 3 days. Then the composition is mixed again and applied under the root at the rate of 0.5-1 l per plant;
• second dressing usually carried out during the laying of buds. In 10 liters of water, dissolve 15 g of nitrogen and potassium, as well as 15-20 g of phosphorus. Under the bush, add no more than 1 liter of the composition;
• third dressing takes place 1-2 weeks after flowering. At this time, add 10-15 g of potassium and 15-20 g of phosphorus under each bush;

Feeding a peony in the autumn

In autumn, the roots of peonies continue to grow. Therefore, in mid-September - early October, plants need additional feeding. phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. To begin with, water the bushes abundantly. And then carefully sprinkle around each of them 15-20 g of phosphorus and 10-15 g of potassium.

From organic fertilizers sometimes wood ash is added (0.5 cups per 1 sq.m). It is enough to pour it along the contour of the bush and cover it with a layer of mulch no more than 1 cm thick.

The best varieties of herbaceous peonies

The modern variety of varieties of peonies allows you to select flowers in size, shape and color and create flower beds of stunning beauty. Among the peonies, there are several recognized leaders who have long enjoyed the well-deserved love of flower growers.

1.Ama-No-Sode (Ama No Sode) - this is one of the most beautiful varieties of the so-called "Japanese peonies". The flowers are very large, the petals are two-row, pink in color. The bush blooms late, but its flowers spread a pleasant and light aroma.

2. Anastasia (Anastasia) - one of the mid-early crown peonies that belong to terry varieties. Bushes of medium height (up to 1 m), are distinguished by drought and frost resistance. Pale pink inflorescences framing a crimson core with yellow stamens.

3. Barbara (Barbara) - unusual crowned peony of medium flowering time. The petals are bright pink, form a beautiful border around the modified stamens, which emit a pleasant, subtle aroma.

4. Coral " N Gold (Coral "N Gold") – early semi-double variety with an unusual coral shade of large petals and long stamens yellow color. Very favorably sets off dark green shrubs.

5. Etched Salmon (Etched Salmon) - the flowers of this variety are distinguished by pinkish-peach petals, which fade slightly over time and fill the air with an amazing aroma of fresh lemon. The variety is winter-hardy, and the bushes are practically not affected by botrytis (gray rot).

6. Raspberry Sundae (Raspberry Sunday)-this spherical, or bomb-shaped, peony, the most interesting thing is the colors. The yellow-cream center is bordered by pale pink outer petals. The bush is compact and small, and a stunning pink aroma comes from the flowers.

7. Red Charm (Red Charm) – another globular variety of peony with a huge rounded inflorescence. The flowers reach 25 cm in diameter and at the same time do not fade in the sun, retaining a bright crimson color for a long time. In general, bushes grow healthy and strong due to massive stems.

8.– a representative of rosaceous peonies, which first of all surprises with a delicate linden aroma and sparkling rose petals on a large bud. The plant withstands severe frosts and abnormal heat. The bushes are compact, no more than 80 cm in height.

Now you know everything about dividing and transplanting peonies. This is a fairly powerful plant that only grows stronger over the years, so do not delay with its "moving" to a new place. But, most importantly - do not rush and do not apply excessive force to the plant. And then every spring you will be able to enjoy its flowering and beauty.

Pion- a chic plant, characterized by many colors and varieties. special care does not require, likes to grow in sunny places. Experienced gardeners and lovers choose as the main decoration of the garden. If you plant flowers on the site different term flowering, then you get the impression that they bloom endlessly. Able to decorate and revive the most nondescript garden plot.

Flowering time

start to rise in early spring. Stem growth continues up to 40 days. It enters the flowering period after 45 days from the beginning of growth. The plant itself as a bush can bloom up to 15 days, each flower individually - up to 8 days. If dry and hot weather sets in, the fragrance process will begin much earlier, but its period will be reduced.

Time periods are divided into three types:

• Early. Early flowers begin to please with their grace in early June. Continues on average until June 15.
• Medium. After early peonies, the baton is picked up by flowers of an average flowering period. The period is gradually shifting to June 15th. This period usually lasts until June 30th.
• Late. On the late varieties inflorescences appear at the end of June and continue to bloom almost until the end of July.

For 2 summer months (June, July) they delight amateur gardeners with unusual coloring, flower shape and flowering duration.

Features of flowering

In order to get a healthy, full-fledged bush, you need to know the rules of cultivation and care. There are times when they do not bloom. There can be many reasons for this:

• Short term growth. If peonies have been planted recently, you should not expect flowers soon. Flowers need to take root, grow tall stems, flowers bloom no earlier than 2-3 years.
• Acquisition of quality planting material. The material must be purchased from a trusted seller, with a quality certificate. Some new varieties bloom after 4-5 years.

The flowering period largely depends on the climatic zone and the variety of varieties. For these reasons, some bloom as early as May, while others delight with the abundance of their buds until mid-summer. If the bush is planted in the shade, then the dates are much delayed.

In order for garden pets to bloom for a long time and profusely, you must follow some simple rules:

In order for peonies to bloom magnificently, abundantly and for a long time, it is necessary to cut the bushes in time and feed the plants.

Is it possible to transplant a flowering peony?

It is possible to transplant during flowering, but it is undesirable. During this period, the plant is already prepared to produce flower stalks: buds are formed, ready to bloom.

If such a situation arises, then this should be done with extreme caution:

• Prepare the soil, add humus and top dressing to it;
• Carry out thorough watering;
• Carefully transfer a plant with a large clod of earth to a new planting site;
• Transplanting is necessary only in cloudy or rainy weather;
• During rooting, carefully monitor its condition, constantly moistening the soil.

Summer adaptation is extremely difficult, therefore, without the need, it is better not to touch it and wait for the autumn period, when the transplant will be more comfortable.

What to do after flowering?

After the bushes have faded, spend preparatory work to make them look more chic next year:

Transplantation of peonies, grassy and treelike, is necessary if the bushes have been growing in one place for more than 10-15 years, and their decorative effect has noticeably decreased, or the overgrown specimen looks sloppy. The optimal period for moving peonies is autumn.

Transfer time

Each grower focuses on the weather in his area and regulates the timing of when to transplant peonies. The main landmark - after planting, there is still a month or a half before frost. During the summer, the peony root system develops well, and the bush grows stronger if timely watering was done in the heat and fertilizers were applied. Having formed flower buds from the beginning of August, the rhizomes go into a dormant period. For 30-45 days of autumn weather without freezing of the soil, the roots take root, and powerful buds of future stems appear in spring. Flowering should be expected 2-3 years after moving the peony bush or dividing the rhizome.

Peony transplant

The bush develops due to thin and long suction roots, which are almost invisible, similar to a cobweb. The continuation of the storage roots, thick white shoots, are formed at the end of September. Therefore, it is important to transplant peonies before this period so that the root system develops successfully in a new place.

approximate calendar,when is it betterconductpion transplantation:

1. From the second decade of August, summer transplantation of peonies begins in areas with an early onset of autumn (in Siberia, the Urals) until mid-September.
2. In the regions middle lane landing continues until September 25.
3. The time when peonies can be transplanted to another place in the south lasts the entire first autumn month.

As for spring replanting, experts advise only one term. Peonies are moved immediately after the snow melts, when red sprouts have not yet appeared. The roots must be dug out carefully, without damaging the earthen ball. The plant is transferred to a new place and placed in a prepared hole, without shaking off the ground, so as not to injure the small roots. Young bushes planted 2-3 years ago can withstand such a transshipment better.

If planting material purchased in the spring, flower growers recommend storing it deep in the ground in a pot with a volume of 2-3 liters. With the onset of warm weather, the pot is buried in the garden and moderately watered. Produce in autumn proper fit while preparing a spacious pit with fertilizers.

Important! Divide the peony bush after 4-5 years of development.

How to properly dig a bush

Having studied the conditions, how to plant a peony bush and when to choose the best period for this, flower growers dig up plants in August or September. For a big bush reliable tool- a pitchfork that will not cut the tips of large roots. Suction arachnoid processes penetrate to a depth of up to 90 cm. When transplanting these roots, it is almost impossible to save everything, but cuts with a shovel of large rhizomes can cause them a disease.

Adhere to the algorithm of work:

1. They dig the bushes, stepping back at least 40 cm, to approximately the same depth.
2. They loosen a clod of earth with roots.
3. They try to get it with two shovels.
4. The rhizome is washed from the ground and the stems are cut to 10 cm.

They lay a dense root ball in the shade so that large intertwining processes slightly diverge from one another under their own weight. A few hours later, the division of the old peony bush is carried out.

Additional Information! Before dividing the rhizomes of pions, a sharp knife is chosen and the blade is disinfected with potassium permanganate, brilliant green or an alcohol solution so as not to accidentally infect.

Separation

The rhizomes of powerful old bushes are tightly intertwined. Therefore, when dividing, they are first measured approximately so that there are 3-5 buds on the segments. Too overgrown bushes are divided by driving a wedge into the center of the coma. They work carefully with the roots, despite their impressive appearance, they are quite fragile. They try not to cut off such a fragment, where there are many buds and few roots. The plant will not be able to fully eat due to the small volume of the root system.

Adhere to the requirements for healthy divisions:

• root length - 8-15 cm;
• there are at least 3-4 kidneys, but not more than 6-8;
• 3-5 thin processes depart from the rhizome, up to 8-10 mm thick, up to 4-6 cm long.

The roots are cut with a sharp knife, adhering to the direction from top to bottom. After separation, the segments are reviewed in order to reject those where signs of disease are found, or there are large damages. Rotten roots are cut off, treating fresh surfaces, like the whole lump, with copper-based compounds: Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride or other preparations. The sections are then powdered wood ash. Planting material dries for a day in a dry, shady corner. To avoid the appearance of rot, the rhizomes are disinfected in a pink solution of potassium permanganate. If desired, gardeners process segments of peony rhizomes in a solution of any growth stimulator, following the instructions for the preparation.

Peony transplant

Undivided bushes take root poorly, so too old rhizomes are cut out from the central part of the coma. In addition, these parts may be rotten or hollow inside. Slices are also processed. You can also plant small sections of roots, which have 1-2 buds. Experienced flower growers do not refuse fragments without kidneys. If there are small strong roots, the peony will grow into a flowering bush with proper care in a few years. The buds wake up if the rhizome is in good conditions.

Transplant stages

Having precisely decided on the date when to plant peonies, a pit for future large flower bushes is prepared in 15-30 days. During this time, the substrate will be compacted due to natural shrinkage, and the rhizomes will be placed at the desired depth when placed. For different types peonies their conditions in the garden. Dividing the bush herbaceous peonies, you have to dig 2-3 holes, which should be located at intervals of up to 1 m. Spreading tree-like peonies are planted at a distance of one and a half to two meters.

Plants are photophilous. It is important to place the peonies in the yard or garden so that they are under the sun all day. Only light partial shade is allowed during lunch hours. Therefore, it is undesirable to plant bushes near buildings or high fences and trees.

Pit preparation

Pit preparation

The landing pit should be quite spacious and deep, because peonies grow in one place up to 30-80 years. Having chosen a sunny place, protected from cold winds, that meets the requirements of peonies for soil acidity and not swamping of the site, they dig a hole, 60-80 cm deep, 60x60 or 70x80 in size. For tree peonies prepare a more spacious place. 70% of the volume of the pit is filled with a substrate, then rhizomes are placed, on top of which a layer of garden soil without fertilizers is applied, up to 10-14 cm thick.

Soil enrichment

Peonies develop best on loams with low acidity, up to a pH of 5-6 units. Experts recommend how to properly prepare the soil for plants:

• sand and humus are added to acidic and heavy soil in equal proportions;
• for sandy loamy areas, an incomplete bucket of clay is placed in the pit;
• in areas where ground water suitable up to 1 m, pits are dug 15 cm deeper to lay a drainage layer of sand or expanded clay;
• acidic soils are limed by adding 100-200 g of slaked lime to the substrate, where there is mandatory humus;
• fertilizers are also added to each well: 0.35 kg of bone meal, 0.1-0.2 kg of superphosphate, 0.15 kg of potassium sulfate or one liter of wood ash by volume;
• to prevent fungal diseases, 20 g of ferrous sulfate is mixed into the substrate.

These fertilizers are enough for bushes for 2-3 years of development, and then they are fed with organic matter and complex mineral preparations.

Note! If you place the peony buds too deep, the bushes will not throw out flowers.

Landing

Some growers place the divided rhizomes in the chosen place immediately after separation, others leave the fragments to dry. Having decided when peonies can be transplanted, the delenki are placed on the settled substrate and upper layer from ordinary loose soil so that a few centimeters remain from the kidneys to the ground level:

• on heavy soil - no more than 3-4 cm;
• on the lungs, deepening of the kidneys up to 5-7 cm is allowed.

After sprinkling the tubers, the earth is compacted and watered with 5-10 liters of water. Dry grass mulch is laid out on top. With a cold snap, a layer of peat or humus is added to the hole, up to 10-12 cm high. In the spring, the bush is freed from mulch.

Transfer

If the substrate in the pit has sunk too deep in a month, the rhizomes are placed on garden soil. The shoots will take nutrition from the bottom layer.

In the event that the pits have not been prepared, the seedlings are not buried, but placed on the surface of the substrate and the top layer of the pit from garden soil so that the buds are on top. The roots are spudded with a layer of up to 6 cm. When shrinkage occurs, the tubers will sink to the required depth.

Ideal transfer time peony bushes end of summer, beginning of autumn. Having arranged the flowers in a place convenient and suitable for plants, they admire their picturesque view for several decades.