The main diseases of Peony. Gray rot - not the easiest rival

This tall magnificent flower came to us from China, where it was raised for medicinal needs since ancient times. He was called the "emperor flower" and attributed his magical properties. PIONS TRAINED (PAEONIA X SUFFRUTICOSA) or semi-student belongs to the types of hybrid plants of the genus Pion, is a representative of the Peon Family. It is often believed to a group of varieties of hybrid origin. Sometimes peony is called pink-shaped, but it is only a characteristic of the appearance of the flower, and not a scientific classification.

Preparation for landing in open ground

Before planting in the open, the ground is carried out with the treatment with the roots of drugs from rot, colloidal gray or make the roasting of wood ash.

Dates of landing

Different types of seedlings require their landing time.

Vaciated peonies that can be bought in specialized stores are distinguished by a powerful root system. It will ensure the development and growth of the bush, so the tree can be placed in the pot on the pot from the ground and put in the garden. In the fall, the plant transplanted at a permanent place.

Dates of landing are not so significant: early spring - autumn. The landing of the tree peony falls in the autumn fits the seedlings of the cornesological, that is, unmatched (they, as a rule, possess a weak root system), sometimes it is carried out at the end of August, the season intensive root growth. The best is the autumn landing on a warm sunny day. Unstable weather with frosts in spring time, impertured soil, cold air Make landing unsuccessful.

The Chinese hold hard time limits: one day before and one day after equinox.

Selection of space on the plot

It is necessary to carefully choose a permanent place that satisfies the conditions for the growth of the peony so that it is no longer replant.

• Breeding from wind and direct sunlight relatively large space.
• Preferably alkaline ground.
• The absence of other colors and trees with a wide root system.
• Avoid sections with a similar location of groundwater.

The sunny place is the key to rapid development and growth, prieved - will extend the flowering time and retain the flowers with fresh.

Pion Transplant is a big stress for him. It is resorted after 10 years, when there is no abundant flowering. At this time, it is advisable to transplant a bush to a new place.

Preparation of soil

To raise a viable plant, you need to properly prepare the soil.

Pion tree loves fertile loose soil with low acidity.

In a heavy soil, sand is added, feed fertilizers. The sandy soil contributes humid and peat. Clay soils require sand and humus. Acidity reduce the lime of dolomite flour.

Selection and preparation of planting material

Landing and caring for tree peonies do not differ from the care of any garden plants.

The success of growing depends largely on the correct selected seedling. Suitable seedling possesses:

• root system (not nude) in terms of volume equal to its crown;
• several pressing roots up to 5 cm long;
• two-three (up to five) developed kidneys;
• lack of foliage;
• up to 25 cm high.

The seedlings are distinguished: grafted, the lead is taken from the tree peony, the root of herbaceous peony serves; Correspondence, grown from drains of a tree plant. Gardening must decide on desired result: Quickly, but not long or long waiting, which rents many years of love with a luxurious bush. These tables show the advantages and disadvantages of two types of planting material.

View of sapling	Dignity	disadvantages	Difference
Graft	Rapidly growing (up to 40 cm per season); Forms a pigtail around the bush, which is used as a planting material.	Shortness of life; not multiplied by the division of the bush; Poor tolerate the transplant (you need to immediately land at a permanent place).	Roots from grassy peony cylindrical shape, thick (3-5 cm in diameter); Dark color.
Correspondence	Long-livers (50-100 years); abundant flowering 20-30 years; High resilience; Resistant to disease and winter weather; reproduction of rhizomes division.	Slow growth rate; Later, flowering (aged 4-6 years); The need to remove strokes for good bush development.	Roots are thin 6- 9 cm long; Light tones.

Landing description

Proper landing - pledge successful cultivation Peony. The sequence of operations is as follows:

• prepare a cone-shaped pit with a diameter and a depth of at least 70 cm two weeks before landing;
• for 6-7 days before landing, pour drainage (crushed stone, broken brick, sand), filled with a mixture of land, compost with the addition of peat and dolomite flour, superphosphate and wood ash in the form of a holloch;
• locate the seedling to the surface of the Holloch, distributing evenly roots;
• sprinkle loose land and slightly tamper around;
• pour (1-2 water buckets);
• to inspire that the root neck is located at the surface level, and renewable kidneys - below 5-6 cm.

Huting several bushes, withstand the distance between them at least 2 m.

A shallow landing will lead to the latter of the roots after the winter and the death of a seedling, deep - to the absence of flowers.

Care of tree peonies

Landing and caring for tree peonies are not very different from the care of any garden plant.

Care for tree peonies includes:

• regular soil looser;
• sufficient watering;
• removal of weeds;
• timely introduction of fertilizers required at different stages;
• installation of supports for large flowering bushes.

Choosing and fertilizer

Proper and timely feeding of the plant allows you to achieve success in the breeding of peony tree:

• intensive growth;
• buster blossom;
• no disease.

When and what feeders are required, shown in the table:

When entered	What fertilizers	Method of application
After melting snow	Nitrogen, potash (1: 1); ammonium nitrate (16-21 g); Potash salt or nitro-phoska (40-60 g). Prevention of diseases: manganese-oxid potassium (2-3 g per 1 liter of water).	Scatter on the surface, switch, cover with a compost.
The beginning of the formation of buds (two weeks before flowering).	Potash (40-50 g), phosphate (20-30 g), (2: 1); Infusion cowboy 10 l.	Under the bush in liquid form.
Simultaneously with watering	Wood ash; Mineral: with high concentration of potassium, phosphorus, nitrogen.	With watering.
Flowering period; At the end of flowering.	Repeat: potash (40-50 g), phosphoric (20-30 g).	Under the bush in liquid form
In autumn	Organic: compost, overwhelmed manure.	With simultaneous resistance.

Phosphoric and potash fertilizers contribute abundant blossom. Nitrogen and organic is necessary for growth. A young seedling (up to 2-2.5 years) is powered by an extraordinated method, irrigated bush from a spray pulverizer (30-40 g of mineral fertilizers on 10 liters of water) after each watering. An adult plant such a feedback is carried out three times per year:

• when new shoots appear;
• during the swelling period;
• at the end of flowering.

Watering frequency and water quality requirements

At different stages of development, the peony requires a different amount of water. The need for one bush is 6-8 liters twice a month, taking into account the rains. Around the bush make grooves to 15 cm at a distance of 20-25 cm.

It is necessary to monitor the humidity of the soil and the view of the bush, by watering more often. The drying of the top layer of the soil occurs after two after irrigation, then it is loosened to a depth of up to 5 cm, removing weeds. During flowering when watering, exclude water from the fall on flowers. In August, they watered less often, gradually reducing no. Watering is not a strong jet (so as not to blur the roots). Not recommended too cold water. The best time is evening or night.

Causes and Methods Pruning

When examining early spring before the start of the vegetation, damaged, dry and growing branches are cut. Crocheted by 15 cm old shoots. Cut part of buds on young shoots so that they grow better.

The victims of the frost branches should not cut immediately. They can come around, and the kidneys will dissolve.

In the fall, it is not worth the trimming because of the kidney bookmark on last year's shoots. Trimming, forming a bush, do once a few years in early spring. After a harsh winter, if the plant is extinct, it is cut off all overhead part to the surface of the Earth. PION The treelike is poorly tolerates trimming, it is enough to remove the tales and damaged branches.

Preparation for winter

PION tree - frost-resistant plant; He continues to grow when cold days are coming. Therefore, special preparation for the winter season is needed. Watering should stop gradually. It is prepared for winter by cutting the leaves of peony (2/3 of length), when the temperature is slightly higher than zero. With the onset of October, the branches are binding together, around the bush mulched peat.

In the suburbs, where there are severe frosts, plants are covered with branches, spruce, pine, pine, giving them a shag. Top tested with a rope. The shelter will keep off from breakdowns of branches and damage to the kidneys, protecting the plant from the strata of snow. With the beginning of snowfall, slags are thrown by snow. Young flexible bushes are flexing to the ground, fall asleep with leaves, covered with a sweetheart from above.

So that the bush does not reload, to remove the shelter in time.

In areas with guaranteed abundant snow cover, it is not necessary to strengthen the need.

Features of care during flowering and rest

Landing and caring for a tree peony at all stages of development require attention, it should be noted that flowering time (June), in this period, the plant needs:

• feeding;
• abundant watering;
• loosening and mulching of the soil.

Lush large bushes with flowers are supported by supports in the form of rings on the racks.

When cutting flowers, it is necessary to leave the largest number of leaves on the bush, they are powered through them for the renewal kidney laid for the next season. The big loss of leaves will lead to the weakening of the bush. To achieve prolonged flowering, remove faded flowers, without removing the leaves, which causes the appearance of new side buds.

Proper departure during this period lays down conditions for abundant flowering and health of plants for the future season.

The plant begins to prepare for the period of rest after flowering. At this time, feeding is required for successful wintering (blend of wood ash and bone flour). Gradually reduce the watering, over time, is excluded at all. Peony tree falls only leaves, stems winter.

Pests and diseases

Peony has resistance to disease. Diseases - the investigation is not proper care, infected seedlings and gardening inventory. Typically, weak and old bushes are ill.

The table shows the most common types of diseases, their manifestations and methods of treatment:

Diseases	The reasons	Signs	Methods and means of struggle
Gray Gnil or Botritis	(the most dangerous fungal disease) excess moisture in the ground; lack of sunlight; rainy weather.	The whole plant suffers, more often young; grayish falling on the leaves; Damage stems; Young shoots soften and wither.	Cutting contagious leaves, burning them away from landing; PION irrigation with potassium permanganate solution (manganese) 4 g by 10 l water or 7% copper sulfate solution.
Buuray spotty	Cold rainy weather	Leaves in brown spots with dark border; The appearance of licorions of the fungus; drying of leaves; Empting escapes.	Pruning and destruction of patients leaves; Treatment of a bush is 1% Bordeaux liquid, copper chlorokising, Celebre's infusion.
Rust	Wet weather.	Yellow and brown-purple spotty foliage, at its lower part - disputes of the fungus; Twisting and drying leaves.	Removing all damaged to the sickness of the bush, they need to be destroyed immediately. Prevention: timely loosening, weed removal. Early in spring and late in the fall - the treatment of the earth with the nitrophenium solution (200 g per bucket of water).
Round-shaped mosaic	(viral disease)	The appearance of spots on the leaves of different shapes is light or dark-angled with dark edging; whitish falling; The formation of necrotic spots of a small magnitude.	Not treated. Drop and destroy.
Puffy dew	Bacterial disease	White raids.	Cutting sick shoots when the buds are disclosed to the root; their destruction. Spraying with a 0.5% solution of soda calcined with economic soap. Repeating procedure in 8-10 days. Highly infected plants are subject to destruction. Spraying with a 0.2% solution of the Fignee. Alphine uses for prevention.
Lemurian's disease	Do not know	The weak development of shoots, no flowering; appearance of swirling on the roots; The plant becomes small.	Not treated. Remove illness to avoid distribution.
Verticillious fading	Causative agent.	During the flowering period - fading foliage and stems; The darkening of the vessels, visible on the slot section.	It is impossible to save. Dropped with an earthen room and burned. The released pit shed with chlorine lime or formalin.

There are enemies of peony and in the animal world. Consider what danger carry how to deal with them:

Pest	Than dangerous	How to get rid of
Ants	Eat together with sweet liquid on buton petals and leaves.	Displays with repellents (substances for scaring insects).
Aphid	Going on the upper parts of the shoots, at buds, flowers, drinks the juices of the plant; Peony weakens.	Manual harvest, if aphids are not enough, knocking down a strong water stream. A large number is destroyed by "phytodeterm" or "accomplish", adhering to the instructions.
Gallic nematodes (small worms)	Damage roots.	The plant is removed from the plot and destroy; The earth is disinfected with 1% formalin solution. To prevent: Gently choose plants for landing; deeply pull the soil; Recycling plant residues.
Bronzeka, Zhuk-Kuzka	Ombols flowers, stems, leaves.	Frequent soil looser (summer end); Manual harvest; During the appearance of the buds, spraying the bushes with infusion of tomato tops or insecticides.
Khmeleva Tonclocher	His caterpillars eat roots.	Regular soil looser; Deleting weeds. When pest appears, it is sprayed by the preparation of "Spark" according to the instructions.
Tripses	During the bootonization period, juice from petals.	Several times per season with a 0.2% carbofos solution, a tincture of dandelion or yarrow.
All sorts of caterpillars and larvae	Destroy different parts of the plant.	Manual harvest; Spraying with Nasty Pozyate.

Methods of breeding

There are several ways to get a new plant.

Seeds

Reproduction of seeds - the most painstaking and long way:

1. take freshly collected seeds (from discontinued pods);
2. selection, eliminate damaged and weak;
3. prepare containers for planting;
4. fill them with vermiculitis or calcined sand;
5. well moisturize;
6. plant seeds on a small depth;
7. put in the dark dry place, maintaining the temperature: during the day +30 ° C, at night reducing to +15 ° C for 35 days;
8. with the help of a spacker to maintain a permanent level of soil moisturizing;
9. after the appearance of small roots to subjected to cold stratification;
10. gently transplancing the proceeding seeds, carrying them into other containers with a mixture of the Earth and peat (humoring);
11. the room temperature is maintained at 7-10 ° C.
12. wait for the appearance of leaves, and then increase the temperature to 18-20 ° C;
13. regularly irrigate the soil, sometimes adding growth stimulants;
14. at the end of August, young plants can be planted at a permanent place.

Seeds that had to buy in the store, usually filled. It is necessary to pre-dock them in the water for two days. Preparation of new instances of seeds use breeders to remove new varieties. Do everything with your own hands at home is inappropriate.

Vaccine

The method is used in the dilution of rare varieties. Time is the second half of August. The root of peony is grassy. The trim is obtained from a cutting of a tree-like peony with several kidneys, pre-pointed by the cone its lower cut. In a cut on the root of herbaceous peony, the sharpened stalk is inserted, tightly wrapped with a special ribbon (film). Place a month in a container with sawdust, setting it into a slightly shaded place. When it is rooted, transplanted into the container, deepening the kidney by 5 cm into the ground. Conditions at this time - greenhouse. The process takes up to two years.

Digging

A simple and fairly effective way:

• intact woody escape with kidneys, located closer to the ground, cut off;
• tip to the ground;
• fasten the bracket, pressing on both sides to the ground;
• sprinkled with soil;
• regularly watered;
• appeated sprouted roots with escape cut off;
• we are divided into parts with the presence of the root on each.

It is better to use this way in May, to separate the autumn from the bush and put it separately.

Cherenca

Shining spend in summer (June-August):

• take a plant with semi-resistive shoots and viable kidneys;
• skim cut under the kidney is separated by each escape;
• shocked two-thirds sheet;
• the cut surface is dipped into the growth stimulator for the roots;
• put in containers with a pre-prepared sand mix with peat so that the kidneys are in the ground;
• spring sand surface;
• closed with a film, supporting moisture before the autumn;
• in October, transplanted to the greenhouse and keep there until spring.

The plants obtained by staring will give flowers for the fifth year.

Dividing bush

Convenient and efficient way - the division of the bush. Conducted in August-September. To do this, you need to choose older than five years:

• carefully dig;
• wash roots from the ground;
• divided, leaving three escapes on each part;
• frames rinse with a solution of mangartage;
• sprinkle with small wood ash;
• withstand half an hour in a clay bolt;
• space into the ground.

Varieties of tree peonies

Pion varieties are obtained by hybridization between the species and within one species. There are groups:

• Chinese-European (large terry flower up to 25 cm);
• Japanese (Nemver and semi-over flower 4-9 cm);
• Hybrid peony yellow.

Peons of the Chinese-European group due to large heavy flowers (from white, light pink to brightly pink) lose decorativeness during the rain flowering period. The Japanese group is distinguished by light small flowers (gamma colors is much wider), highly located above the leaves on strong blooms. The most popular - Hybrids of the peony of yellow with attractive flowers (gamma from yellow to chestnuts with different color strokes). The description of the varieties of tree peonies is already found at the Tibetan monks about five centuries ago. In China, more than a thousand varieties are derived. In other countries, less than five hundred species are grown.

Most often, the attention of gardeners attracts PaeoniaSuffruticosa - PION tree (semi-student). Coloring and type of flowers are diverse. Typical representatives are found in different parts of Russia. Below are the photos and descriptions of varieties of tree peonies, most popular among gardeners:

• AUGUSTE AUGUSTEDESERT. Flowers lush, elegant view, saturated pink color with overflow and border. Long storage in cutting.
• "Anastasia Sosnowiec" a bush is small. Flowers are not terry small size (up to 11 cm). Petals in two rows, light wavy along the edge, at the base - Fuchsia colors.
• "Green Jade." Flowers rose-like original green, large terry. Flowering: April - beginning of June. It has powerful flexible stems, hardy.
• "Coral altar" inflorescences are similar to corals. Flowers are large, crowning shape of white-pink tones. Flowers in June.

• "Maria" Gentle large flower, resembling a bride's dress, is one on a robust blur. Medium solver, spherical shape. Flowering: May - June. Resistant to disease and low temperature.
• Sapphire captivates his royal view. Large flower of pink shades with raspberry middle. On the bush to fifty inflorescences. Blossom: June.
• "Kiao sisters" is one of the most unusual varieties. Attracts the attention of two-color inflorescences: half a cream-pink flower, the second is purple-red. High bush - up to 1.3 m. Flowers in June.

In culture, its resistance to adverse factors of the medium is significantly reduced due to pathogens, which cause various diseases. Among the pathogens are mushrooms, but recently wide use Received viruses.

According to the literature, PION is amazed 5 viruses - the immersion of tobacco ( Tobacco Rattle Virus), latent annular spotty strawberries ( STRAWBERRY LATENT RINGSPOT VIRUS), Ring Spottedness of Raspberry ( Raspberry Ringspot Virus.), cucumber mosaic ( Cucumber Mosaic Virus) and mosaic alfalfa ( Alfalfa Mosaic Virus) .

Ring mosaic leaves, or ring spot. This is a symptom of a widespread disease of peonies, occurring everywhere, where they are cultivated. On the leaves between the veins appear rings and semiring, stripes various shapes And coloring - from light green, greenish yellow to bright yellow. They can merge, and on the leaves there is a characteristic marble or linear pattern. By the end of the vegetation, the stains are sometimes necrotized. The disease causes a tobacco breeding virus, which used to be known as the peonies ring spot virus.

In the non-sinnamic zone of Russia, including panstones Moscow region, viral infection on peonies is widespread. In the collection of the main botanical garden (GBS), the appearance of symptoms of viral infection on this culture is fixed annually for over 30 years, and in recent years there has been an increase in the number of patient plants with a pronounced manifestation of diseases on the leaves: the first signs are usually visible in spring. They are very diverse, sometimes change during the vegetation and vary significantly depending on the variety of peony and the species (strain) of the virus.

These can be various spottedness, manifested in the form of large or small, vague or clear, ring spots (including concentric) different color - from light and yellow-green to yellow and bright yellow (Fig. 1-5).

Symptoms of damage to viruses tobacco mosaics (TMV) and webness of tobacco (TRV)	Cucumber Mosaic Viruses (CMV) and mosaic alfalfa (AMV)
Latent Ring Spotted Viruses strawberries (SLRSV) and ring Spotted Raspberries (RRSV)	Viruses Aspermia Tomato (TAV) and webness of tobacco (TRV)

In some varieties, necrotization of spots is noted. Bright symptoms like jaundice white and yellow and yellow, sometimes along the central vein (Fig. 6), collity, mosaic (Fig. 7, 8) and linear pattern (Fig. 9). Some plants recorded excavated chlorosis and well-pronounced spelling. In addition, a row of varieties was deformed by a sheet plate (Fig. 10), becoming a narrow, wrinkled, dairy and tuberculus, the shares of the sheet were curved, whose tips were sometimes scrupped and tied up. On some plants, the curls of the leaves were observed, which became wavy, wrinkled and, as it were, pressed against the stalk, turned out, and the petiole was bent down.

Webness virus tobacco (TRV)	Viruses of the breeding of tobacco (TRV) and cucumber Mosaic (CMV)
Lucerne mosaic viruses (AMV) and crappy Carnations (CarMV)	Cucumber Mosaic Viruses (CMV) and mosaic Lucerne (AMV)
Viruses latent ring stranglets (SLRSV) and ring spottedness rRSV (RRSV)	Cucumber Mosaic Viruses (CMV) and mosaic cut (armv)

On the flowers of the peony, spelling was marked.

As a rule, diseases are rarely caused by some kind of virus, a mixed infection is usually fixed.

As a result of testing patient plants, in addition to already known viruses on peonies, others were identified. So, for example, the bean yellow mosaic virus (BYMV), on copies with symptoms of leaves, cucumber mosaic (CMV), mosaic (ARMV), yellow barley mosaic (BYDV). On separate plants with signs of small merging spottedness on the leaves, Narcissus mosaic viruses were revealed ( Narcisus Mosaic Virus) And Aspermia Tomato Aspermy Virus. In most cases, the complex infection included TAV, CMV, ARMV, CarMV viruses ( Carnation Mottle Virus. - Crappy Carnation Virus), TMV ( Tobacco Mosaic Virus. - tobacco mosaic) in various combinations.

Viral diseases are dangerous in that they are distributed contact with the landing material, through the soil, insects and nematodes.

Of mushroom diseases On the peony is the most widely common gray rot, rust and various spottedness.

Gray Gnil (pathogens - Botrytis Cinerea, B. Paeoniae). All plants are affected - stems, leaves, buds, flowers and rhizomes (Fig. 11). It is usually in spring immediately after the rustling of young shoots, their bases appear brown spots that merge into the ring appear, then the stems are rotated in this place (the gray flare is often formed here, and small black sclerotes are found on rotting tissues and in the soil) and faded, and subsequently and are reduced and Fall. Later, the stems can also be faded and dying, but the rotting occurs already 10-12 cm above the base. With the lesion of the leaves (usually at the edges), large brown blurring spots appear, which in dry weather are gradually necrotized, and in conditions of high humidity are covered with an abundant gray raid and rot. During the bootonization period, the same can be observed on buds, cups and flowers. As a rule, small buds are black, dry out or rewind, and larger - raging, bluntly bloom, often only on the one hand, so they look at one-bone. The petals will boil and dry, and the flower acquires an ugly shape. The disease is developing very quickly, with a strong damage to the bushes fall apart, the stalks fall and dry. The pathogen remains on the plant residues and in the peonies, causing their posting, spreads during the rain and spread with ants. Cold rainy weather is promoted to the active development of the disease in spring and summer, as well as sharp air temperature drops. The stormy course of the disease is observed on raw, heavy, clay soils and at close-up groundwater, as well as on thickened, poorly ventilated landings. In general, the development of the disease promotes high humidity, excess nitrogen in the soil and shading of plants. Early grades are greatly affected.

GBS gray rot is noted on peonies annually, as a rule, on all parts of the plant. The degree of lesion in some years reached 20-30%, such as in 2004 and 2010. In 2011, the strongest development Botrytis Cinerea. Observed only on leaves and buds.

Rust (CRONARTIUM FLACCIDUM). This disease is more often found in the northern regions and middle lane of Russia, in the Urals and Siberia, Moldova, especially dangerous in Ukraine, including in the Crimea, where epiphylations are in semi-years. The first signs of the disease are usually observed in the middle of the summer shortly after flowering (in the Moscow region in the 1st half of July). On the upper side of the leaves, brown, yellowish-brown or brown with a purple tint of stains appear, sometimes surrounded by brown border. From the bottom side, small yellowish-brown, orange pads ubeds, containing mushroom disputes, which are easily spread by the wind, infecting new plants. At the end of the summer, yellowish brown-brown, revised teletepospor columns appear among the pads of the Uredators, completely covering spots from the bottom side of the leaves that twist and dry out. Under favorable conditions, the disease can spread in 2-3 days, hitting the peonies on significant areas.

In the fall of teletepship, they germinate in basidy with basidiospores and infect the pine of ordinary ( Pinus Silvestris) And with. Crimean ( P. Pallasiana.) - intermediate owners of the mushroom, which can be a perennial source of infection (the pathogen on the trees is saved and winter in the form of a mushroom). Spring on the core of the trunks and branches, yellowish-red bloats appear (the Ezidial stage of the mushroom), which subsequently break through. The affected branches are thickened, curved and gradually die away. In the middle of the summer, Ezidiospiona falls on peony leaves and infect them. Later teleteatospores are formed, which winter on the fallen leaves of these plants.

The development of the disease promotes wet warm weather. In such conditions, the pathogen is intensively distributed, already in July causing the drying of the leaves and reducing the growing season, which weakens the plants and adversely affects winter hardiness and flowering for the next year.

Peonies differ significantly in rust resistance.

So, the following varieties are stronger in the GBS collection: 'Albatre', 'Duchesse de Nemours',' Graziella ',' Feather Top ',' Marcella ',' Cornelia Shaylor ',' Advance ',' Livingstone ',' MareChal Mac -Mahon '.

Akron ',' Argentine ',' Aisberg ',' Blush Queen ',' Dr. can be attributed to the Midway Correctable F.G. BRETHOUR ',' Enchantress', 'Florence Nicholls',' Felix Supreme ',' Gladis Hodson ',' Inspecteur Lavergne ',' Lady Kate ',' Le Cygne ',' Mother's Choice ',' Nick Shaylor ',' PRIMEVER ' , 'Torch Song'.

Most varieties of domestic selection are resistant to rust or affect only a small degree ('Arkady Gaidar', 'White Sail', 'Varnika', etc.); From the cultivars of foreign selection are stable can be considered 'Sarah Bernhard', 'Festiva Maxima', 'Felix Croissse', 'A.E. Kunderd ',' Omalia Olson ',' Bowl of Cream ',' Judy Becker ',' Dixie ',' Dandy Dan ',' Evangeline Newhall ',' The Fleec 'and others.

ClapPoriosa, or brown spot (Cladosporium Paeoniae., Fig. 12). The disease is usually manifested in the first half of summer, it is found in the southern part of Russia, widespread in Ukraine. On the leaves are formed large brown, brown or dark purple spots, which gradually grow up, merge and can embrace the entire plate. Over time, the stains are darker, and the leaves look burned, in wet weather on their underside there is a dark gray, smoky mushroom spout. Sometimes stalks are affected, buds and flowers. On young shoots, elongated reddish-brown spots are usually formed, then the stem darkens and covered in a smoky bloom, buds become brown, petals are creepy. Winter mushroom confidium on fallen leaves.

Phillostose(PhylLosticta Paeoniae.). This disease causes the greatest harm in the steppe zone of Russia and Ukraine. On the lower leaves, small brown stains with a dark purple rim are formed. Over time, they increase in size, acquire a rounded or oblong shape, brighten in the center and are covered with convex dark dots - picnides of the mushroom, which are shipped into the leaf fabric. Such areas usually fall out, leading to the rupture of the sheet surface. With a strong development of the disease, a premature drying of the leaves occurs, which in turn reduces the growing season and weakens the plants. Winter picnides on plant residues that spring become a source of infection. Disputes fall on young leaves, germinate and infect peonies, the peak of morbidity falls for a period of flowering.

Septoriasis, or brown spot (Septoria Macrospora.).

The leaves and stems are affected. The first signs of the disease appear in June-July on the leaves: on both sides, brown and yellowish-brown rounded or extended spots with a bright middle and dark purple border are formed. Gradually, the spots merge and acquire a light brown color with an ash-gray tint. In the middle of the summer, picnides appear - the sputing of the mushroom. The disease first manifests itself on the lower leaves, then applies to the stalk above. With a strong damage, the leaves completely dry, but they can not be down again. The disease weakens the plants and adversely affects the winter hardiness and flowering of peonies next year. Winter picnides on fallen leaves.

In addition to the described spots, there are ramularize ( Ramularia Paeoniae.), alternariasis ( Alternaria Tenuissima.) and ascohithosis ( Ascochyta Paeoniae.), the latter disease is distributed mainly in the North-West of Russia.

In general, spotting causes premature death of leaves and shoots. High humidity and temperature contribute to their development. The infection is maintained on plant residues. At the gibbing sites of the Moscow region and landings of PIONS Podhostost, annually marked in the second half of the vegetation.

Milder dew (Sphaerotheca Fuliginea f. Paeoniae, Erysiphe Communis f. Paeoniae.). On peonies, the disease has local distribution, occurs episodically. Plants are usually affected at the end of the growing season. On the upper side of the leaves there is a white torment, consisting of mushrooms and conidiones with conidias. Upperination of the Baggy: Brown Claycarts are located mainly on the bottom of the sheet, winter on plant remains. Sometimes the leaves are deformed and dry.

Root rotes. Mushrooms of birth can be pathogens Fusarium, Botrytis, RhizoCtonia, SCLEROTINIAwhich reduce the flowering intensity, cause the roots, stalks, cuttings and the death of plants. The disease is common everywhere and is detected, as a rule, when transplanting or reproducing the bush division. The affected sections of the roots and rhizomes are raving, soften, rotate and die away. With high humidity, a whitish, grayish or pinkish raid (mycelium and mushroom disputes) is formed. Source of infection - soil and contaminated rhizomes. Usually degraded plants, cuttings and branches separated during transplantation. The development of the disease contributes to the increased humidity and high acidity of the soil.

In the GBS on the collection of peonies root rot Fixed annually. Significant defeat was observed in 2008-2011, which was largely due to weather conditions favorable for the development of rotors, but not favorable to the growth of the plants themselves.

Measures of struggle. Much attention should be paid to preventive and preventive measures. First of all, it is necessary to use only healthy, high-quality planting material, which must be purchased in specialized institutions with an appropriate certificate. It is important to observe the optimal agricultural engineering, creating favorable conditions for the growth and development of peonies.

About the agrotechnology of peonies - in the article Than feeding peonies

This culture is recommended to be grown on well-lit, fertile soils, it is impossible to join the landings, it is necessary to regularly hold a weeping and the soil loosening, and with a close grounding of groundwater, a good drainage is needed. During the vegetation, it is necessary to delete and destroy the bushes affected by viruses, as well as weeds that can be sources of infection. When leaving for plants, only clean tools should be used. They must be disinfected by a solution of potassium mangartee-cancer immediately after cutting flowers or patients of shoots, stems. Preventive processing insecticides from tools and other insects, which can be carriers of viruses are needed.

About security tools - in the section Preparations from diseases and pests

Gray Gnil. Sick shoots cut out to the rhizomes, and in the fall, all the stems are definitely cut off, and plant residues are removed and burned. In the spring, the shelter (peat, foliage, etc.) is removed as early as possible, so that the soil is dried and ventilated. If the plants are strongly amazed, the top layer of the substrate is removed by 2-3 cm and fall asleep fresh ground, mixed with sand. In the spring, with a strong infection of young shoots for the destruction of infection in the soil of pione bushes and the ground around them, using cinb preparations (0.5%), Fundazol (0.2%), copper composis (0.5-0.7%) or Bordeaux mixture (1-2%). Take a 2-3 liter of a solution of one or another drug on the plant.

In early spring At the beginning of the growth of shoots to combat the gray rot, the first spraying is carried out, then, if necessary, according to the growing shoots (with an interval of 7-10 days) - the second, applying one of the following drugs: Bordeaux mixture (1-2%), Fundazol (0 , 2%), colloidal sulfur (0.3%); Copper chlorine (0.5-0.7%) or cinb (0.5%). Then, from the moment of complete disclosure of the leaves and before flowering, a burglar mixture is used (1%), copper composite (0.5%), Fundazol (0.1%), purestone (4 ml on 5 liters of water). After flowering, it is advisable to spend another processing. At the end of August, spraying can be repeated.

Rust. It is necessary to cut and destroy the branches affected by this pathogen, but the main thing is not to place the planting of peonies in the immediate vicinity of them. Preventive treatment is carried out after flowering with an interval of 7-10 days and immediately when the first signs of the disease appears. For spraying plants, solutions of the same fungicides are used (with the exception of purestone and phytosporin-M), as against spotlights, as well as copper-soap liquid (0.25%), colloidal sulfur (1%) and its other drugs.

Root rotes. When transplanting and dividing the bushes, patients are removed, thoroughly cut off parts of the roots to a healthy tissue and poured with poured charcoal - coal powder, mixed with Fundazole (2: 1) or gray (2: 1). For 30 minutes, the rhizomes are disinfected in a solution of copper sulphate (1%), Maxim preparations (0.2-0.4%), Fundazol (0.2%), TMTD (1%) or Fundazola Mixture (0.2%) with TMTD (0, 6%). Landing (cuttings and rhizomes should not be strongly plugged) It is advisable to shed a mixture of Fundazola (0.2%) and cine or TMTD (0, 6%). During the growing season, Fundazole, PhytoPorin-M, Bacotofit, Alin-B, Gamiir can be used.

Spotted. Treatments are carried out in spring and before the bootonization: a burglar mixture is used (up to 1%), copper chlorine (0.5%), cinb (0.5%), ABIG peak (0.4-0.5%), purestone (4 ml on 5 liters of water) or phytosporin-M (6 ml on 10 liters of water).

In the fight against septoriasis, the first spraying is carried out immediately after flowering, then if necessary every 10-12 days. The same drugs are used that at other spots, as well as Gamiir (2 tablets per 1 liter of water).

Puffy dew. With the appearance of the first signs during the growing season, the plants spray with an interval of 10-14 days, the Fundazole (0.2%) is used, topaz (0.05-0.1%), Topcin-M (0.1-0.2%) , purestone (4 ml of 5 liters of water), solution of soda soda with soap or copper-soap liquid, phytosporin-M (6 ml per 10 liters of water or 2 g per 10 l), bacotherapite (0.7% or 10 g per 10 l), alin-b (2 tablets per 1 liter).

To protect against a complex of mushroom diseases in the fall after leaffall (September-October), you need to carry out eradicating processing with copper vitrios (3-4%) or burglar mixture (2-3%). This technique subsequently reduces the number of spraying during vegetation. In general, to increase the stability of peony plants to various diseases, it is recommended to apply phosphorian Potash Fertilizers and trace elements, and when using full mineral fertilizer, exclude excess nitrogen. Preparations must be alternating.

Literature

1. Prutenskaya MD Atlas of diseases of flower-ornamental plants. - Kiev: "Nukov Dumka", 1982. - 158c.

2. Syadovsky Yu.V. and other pests and diseases of flower-ornamental plants. - M.: "Science", 1982. - 591 p.

3. Syadovsky Yu.V. and others. Diseases and pests of plant-introductures. - M.: Science, 1990. - 272 p.

4. Cardin L., ONESTO J.P., Moury B. First Report of Cucumber Mosaic Virus in Paeonia Lactifera in France. Plant Disease, 2010. - V. 94. - N 6. - P. 790.

5. Samuitiene M., Navalinskiene M., Dapkuniene S. Investigation of Tabacco Rattle Virus Infection in Peonies (PAEONIA L.). Scientific Works of the Lithuanian Institute of Horticulture and Lithuanian University of Agriculture. Sodininkyste Ir Darzininkyste, 2009. - 28 (3). - P. 199-208.

Magazine "Floriculture" No. 5-2012

Care of peonies.

Peonies are quite popular colors in our country. The most interesting thing is that China is China. It is there from natural varieties. Local breeders have developed several interesting species that are now popular worldwide.

How to grow tree peonies and herbaceous in the country?

The tree peonies are planted at the end of summer and in the inset of autumn. It is necessary to pre-choose a plot on which the landing is carried out, as it should be fairly light and the rays of the sun should be almost constant. In addition, it is worth planning plants away from buildings and trees. The fact is that it is impossible to be a flower without sunlight. In addition, the quality of soil is important. It must be clay, so in the usual black thing you need to make a humus, peat, as well as Dern. Clay soil improves sand and a variety of organic fertilizers. Learn more about the transplant and fertilizer of the plant can be found.

Tree peonies

When the peonies bloom, and what year blooms the peony tree and herbaceous after landing?

With bloom everything is quite difficult. The fact is that it may not coincide the information specified for this variety and realities. It is worth paying attention to that when ripening one bud, unlike many plants, peonies cut or disrupt it is not necessary. If you cut the flower ahead of time, you can sacrifice the whole bush. Very often, after the flower breaking procedure, a growth stop is observed. Therefore, it is necessary to wait for the first flower completely.

When all the petals are revealed, only the flower is cut. It sometimes happens that two buds appeared on the bush for the first time. In this case, it is necessary to wait for both buds to turn into a certain color. After that, pinching or cutting this booton is carried out. Pretty popular is the procedure for piercing bud at the base. In this case, the flower dries off, but it will not hurt the root system.

Do not expect very quick results and receiving flowers. Usually, the tree-like peony blooms on the second and third year after disembarking. While the seedlock will reach 25-30 cm growth. Please note that in the first year the bush looks sufficiently oppressed and weak.

What are the backups need for peonies during flowering?

The fact is that during flowering, very large buds ripen, which can damage the stem. This is due to the large weight of the flowers themselves. Therefore, before the start of flowering, the supports are installed on the bushes. It helps to keep a good view of the bushes and prevents the tilt of the bud. Most often use ring-shaped pores. These are peculiar devices that are two rings connected by supports.

Thus, the entire bush is recorded. It does not allow to tilted the stems in any of the sides even with strong wind gusts. Below in the video you can familiarize yourself with which supports are used during pion blooms. Pionebering of peonies to a variety of wands is not entirely effective.

Video: Supplements for peonies

Peonies beat away: What to do with them on, how to care for peonies after flowering, in August?

It is worth noting that care for peonies is not only before flowering. Some inexperienced gardeners immediately after flowering plants cut the bushes under the root. This is wrong, as it helps to weaken the bush. Next year, you risk getting very small flowers and their small amount, so immediately after flowering, you should not trim the entire bush. Only flashing buds are cut off.

In addition, small kidneys and hemp over them are left. After the plant is flashing, it is necessary to remove all the fallen leaves from below, cut the flowers, as well as to pour a cowhide solution. The plant is responsive to organic fertilizers.

When trim peonies, leaves from peonies after flowering, for winter: trimming time

Many gardeners do not quite well take care of flowers and strive immediately after breaking the buds to cut them down. This is not entirely right. It is necessary to wait for the complete drying of the petals on the bush and only after that triggering. It is not worth cutting the bushes under the root, the bud itself is cut to the first sheet. After that, the bush in such a untouched form is left almost to frosts.

When the stems are devastated down and almost completely fall on the ground, only after that the root trimming is made. This is due to the fact that immediately after flowering before the onset of the first colds, on the stems and the bushes occurs the circulation of beneficial substances. This has a positive effect on the bookmark of new kidneys, as well as on the development of the root system. Therefore, do not hurry to trigger after flowering. Fully cuts only after all the stems affect the Earth.

Peonies - Care in the fall: What do you need to do?

Bushes require care and autumn. Most often it comes down to fertilizer, planting plants. Trimming is carried out in mid-October, because if this is not done, the spring shoots in the whole winter will become soft and bent. They will be much more difficult to cut off the secateur. Therefore, almost under the root is trimmed in autumn.

Instruction:

• It is necessary to make the manipulation to choose a dry day. If there was arid weather in the street for several days, it is necessary to pour a bucket of water under the bush and give it to fully absorbed. Only after that trimming is carried out.
• All branches and leaves are removed from the site and burned. In no case cannot be left under the bush itself. This will contribute to the development of fungal diseases and a variety of infections. All remnants are taken out for the site and burned.
• After that, fertilizer is carried out by organic components. It is best to eat a cow.

How to prepare peonies for winter, is it necessary to stroke for the winter?

Preparation for winter is carried out immediately after flowering. You must perform a number of manipulations:

• Cut flowers
• Cut all stems and clean their cleaning
• Half plants fertilizers
• Concern

Wood peonies can move in winter. The straw layer is usually lined up and the soil mulch is carried out. After that, it is necessary to cover the bushes by the agrofiber or oilcloth, which is fixed with the help of bricks or wooden boxes. Leave bushes are not covered. Since part of the root system during severe cold weather can penetrate. In no case, it is impossible to use fallen leaves as material to cover. Since they can persist pathogens of hazardous diseases.

What frosts withstand peonies in the spring?

Peonies are sufficiently resistant to spring frosts. Therefore, it is not necessary to worry more often. During the period of the bootonization, when the first routines of colors have already appeared, the plant can withstand temperatures up to 4 degrees.

What to handle, spray peonies from ants?

Ants often accumulate near peonies and on them. Therefore, it is necessary to deal with these insects. Read more about Combid .

There are several anti-antith options:

• Chemicals. Chemicals include various insecticides. The most effective is made by the Ants, Muracide or Muracin. All these substances usually dissolve in water. The resulting solution is watering the plant.
• Physical means. Physical facilities include a variety of scaretors and traps. Some daches noted the effectiveness of these funds. Some refer to complete uselessness. The best are those traps like combat and raptor. But in their composition there are still chemicals that are poison and kill ants.
• Folk methods. Some daches speak well about folk remedies when dealing with ants. It is a boric acid that is used to add to water. It is directly obtained by watering plants, and also poured the detected anthills with boiling water.

Why do not peonies bloom: what to do?

Tree peonies are not always delighting dachas with a good harvest. Therefore, in the first year, you should not expect the appearance on the bushes of a large number of uncess. It is worth being ready for the fact that the first two years, after the appearance and landing of the bush, when the buds appears, it is necessary to quit and cut them. So you will form a good strong bush, which will then delight you large quantity Peonies.

If after 3 years of growth and correct care, your peonies do not bloom, try more often to fertilize with organic fertilizers. Perhaps peonies suits me the place that you have chosen for them. Plants are not transferred to shady sites, as well as the neighborhood with many plants. Peonies are usually planted in bright places in which there are straight rays of the sun.

Why the leaves are twisted and drawing, buds dry: peonies and their treatment

The plant is not considered to be inclined to various diseases. Well, like any colors, there are still ailments that overcome.

Tree peonies suffer:

• Ring Spottedness. It is usually stains that appear on the tips of the leaves. The color of these spots is light yellow. The causative agent is a virus. Sometimes a mixed infection is recorded.
• Gray rot. This is a fungal disease that affects flowers, roots and leaves. In this case, brown spots appear on the leaves, as well as drying and rotting the plant. The reason for the ailment is the overaction of nitrogen in the soil, as well as high humidity. In addition, often such a notch appears due to incorrectly selected landing space. Peonies do not tolerate the shadow.
• Rust. Meets most often in the northern regions. We are observed yellow or brown spots on the leaves with a brown cut. Provoked by arms of mushrooms. Infection can occur due to wind gusts.
• Buuray spotty. Observed in the first half of summer. On the leaves there are dark brown specks, which then turn into holes.
• Puffy dew. It is not common and small outbreaks. It is usually manifested by the appearance on the top of the leaf of white cut or plaque.
• Root rot. Provocate mushrooms. The roots infected with such a disease are rotten and dying. Most often provoked by high humidity and abundant irrigation of the plant.

Wrestling methods:

• It is possible to fight with a gray rot. With the help of chloroksi copper, burgundy mixture
• Rust is treated with phytoosporin, colloidal gray
• Root rot is destroyed using Fundazola
• Different types of spottedness are destroyed using a bordeaux mixture, copper chlorocycy, as well as pure
• Puffy dew is cleaned with the help of Fundazola, Topaz and Corporal

To protect against fungal ailments, after they opled the leaves from the bush, the processing of copper vigorous or burglar mixture is carried out. Such processing makes it possible to exclude a variety of illnesses. This is a kind of prevention.

Despite the fact that the peony is a fairly common flower. It is not easy to care for him. This requires the attention of the gardener. It is necessary to carry out regular feeding to the flowering period and during it. Also a prerequisite for obtaining good crop and large buds is the timely pinching and trimming of bushes.

Video: Peony Care

With its exquisite beauty, the tree-like peony, the care and cultivation of which is not particularly different in terms of difficulty from garden worries with his closest relative (herbaceous peony), will become a worthy decoration of your site. This tall flower refers to deciduous type plants.

Tree peony, photo:

Its height can reach 1.5-2 m of height, it has direct powerful shoots that are increasing every year. Attention is attracted not only by its delightful flowers of different shades, but also carved, as if open-in the leaves of the cinema. Multi-treating buds are crowned with strong stems, which in diameter can reach from 14 to 23 cm. The tree-like peony strikes with its colors, depending on the variety, the flowers can be snow-white, pink, aluminum, saturated fuchsiev shade, yellow, gently lilac, blue (blue sapphire ) And even light green (Green Jade). Pay attention to the size of the flower itself, for example, the first pink flower in the photo below has the diameter of the specified 23 cm (and the second - and more).

Dimensions of flowers, photo:

Petal coloring can also have a gradient - a smooth transition from one color to another. The texture of the buds is also diverse: terry, semi-world, ordinary smooth. Remarkable feature of the tree - an increase in the number of flowers every year. It's time for his flowering begins 10-14 days earlier than his relative - ordinary peony. It is the tolerability of cold, it has a more sustainable "immunity" compared to his herbaceous counterfeit.

Gradient painting of flower petals, photo:

A bush is distinguished by abundant blossom, the number of blurred buds can simultaneously reach up to 40-50 pieces. Most often the duration of the flowering phase of each flower is 8-10 days, but even just a bush, generously covered with green foliage, is able to decorate any country cottage area or flowerbed.

Foliage of a tree peony, photo:

Because of large sizes, it is planted separately from other colors, or at a certain distance from other garden representatives. As an addition to the other inhabitants of the garden, he also looks very harmonious, he will appropriately emphasize the living elevation, arch, territory near the arbor, sad benches or entrance to the house.

The first visual differences are more powerful, tree shoots with characteristic leaves. In fact, this is a shrub. Herbatous, closer to the cold, stems and shoots die, and the tree-shaped only increases them, every year turning into a spray shrub, which can reach 2-meter heights. In the fall, he, naturally, resets the foliage, but the shoots remain, become strong, as if to decide.

Another point, on a tree representative, it is not necessary to periodically cut the buds to stimulate the subsequent flowering and distribution of the vitality of the plant. Such a method works well only in the case of its herbaceous "relative". The tree according to his "behavior" is similar to cold-resistant garden roses - it is well tolerating the winter, but in particularly jubilate frosts (in the northern regions of Russia) it is better to protect it with a special observer material. Also for these purposes can also be used.

If your peony feels comfortably on the site, you all make competently and timely, then the period of its flowering will last about 3-4 weeks. Usually he blooms before the herbaceous fellow one and a half or two weeks. Weather conditions and temperature background in the region significantly affect this factor. For example, in the middle lane of Russia they bloom in the first weeks of the calendar summer. Without transplantation, in one place, it can grow decades. For example, the bushes that you can see in the photos below, for 20-30 years. There are cases when the number of flowers on one bush reached 100 pieces!

Photo of long-lived bushes:

Another essential nuance (and honors) is the fact that they are blooming only on the 4th or 5th year from the moment of landing into open ground. First, one flower appears at the end of a straight ware, and then, gradually, over time, the bush is gaining color, increasing the shoots, is abundantly covered with buds. For the first years, you may generally seem that the bush stopped in growth, but this is a normal phenomenon for this species, the first five years he generally adds in volumes and in growth. The temporary difference in the "maturation" of the bush is another difference.

Briefly summarize the main difference of what the tree differs from herbaceous, it is possible in such parameters:

• height of the bush;
• the size of the flower itself (its diameter);
• nuances, differences in care;
• hardness escape.

Consider the natural slow growth of this flower, the shooting process of shoots is gradually and not as fast as I would like. So that the bush began to give flowers, it should grow at least up to 60 cm of height.

This question can very often be seen on thematic flower forums or various gardening groups in social networks. The answer is predictable - incorrect care, unsuccessful landing site, as well as illiterate preparation of soil for it (lack of drainage, non-compliance with the proper blowing of the flower in the soil). These nuances will be told a little lower. The bush himself can be pretty old or, on the contrary, the young, who has not yet reached the appearance of the appearance of flowers (as we remember, should pass for more than one year so that the tree-like peony gives color).

The place to accommodate bushes should be light and spacious, soil - fertile, loose, alkaline.

This plant really does not like a transplant - you should be aware of this. If it happens that for some reason the transplant is still required, then all the actions should be extremely neat. It is necessary to remove a bush from the soil with an earthen room, watchingly watching the roots not damaged. However, be prepared for the fact that the flower after this event will be very long to come to themselves, root and adapt at a new place 2 or even 3 years.

The correct irrigation also has a big effect on flowering. Watering you need plentifully and generously at a time, but it is not necessary to do it! Stagnation is dangerous for him, so if you are prevalent on the site clay soil, Provide your favorite with high-quality drainage before landing (to put a drainage layer in a flower to a flower). It develops better and goes into growth in open sunny places, but in a halftime, the flowers longer retain their freshness and duration of flowering.

Combine the main reasons why not blooming tree-like peony:

1. Insufficient or, on the contrary, excessive shutback of the bush into the soil when landing.
2. Overallizing nitrogen fertilizers.
3. Excessive passion or, on the contrary, insufficient provision of feeding (this flower does not need a large number of auxiliary additives).
4. Damage to the bush frost or, on the contrary, anomalous heat. Diseases should also not be written off. When planting a flower, always take into account the predisposition of the selected variety to the temperature features of the weather in your edges. For example, living in the warm regions, choose the Rannetic Soldiers.
5. The banal lack of sunlight can also be the reason why the bush does not bloom.
6. Age - Young bushes bloom on 4 or 5 years of life, which has already been mentioned above.
7. Too close distance between plants - he loves space.
8. Resetting (sometimes repeated) or the separation of rhizomes can also be due to the absence of flowers.
9. Trimming shoots. By ignorance, some gardeners cut off the shoots with the onset of autumn. Sometimes even before the foliage began to change the color (darken) or fall.
10. Excessive dryness or, on the contrary, soil moistener. Remember that in the intervals between watering the Earth should have time to dry.

Many gardeners would like the flower to combine their own beauty along with the unpretentiousness of herbaceous fellow. Breeders are not inactive and constantly try to bring new hybrids, they are called ITO-peonies (new generation peonies) - but this is a completely different story.

Separately growing bush (he needs a space), photo:

Pay attention to the planting material - its root system is open or closed. When buying at the appropriate sales points, the seedlove can already have a special packaging (for example, a plastic bag from above), and its roots, on the contrary, be bare or staying in a bag with a substrate. Such indicators tell us that it is a peony with an open root system. But if the plant is sold in the finished pot and even has (sometimes) buds, then this is a flower with a closed root system.

Be sure to look at whether there is an attraction on a saplau or he has its own roots. If the grafting is available, the roots are distinguished by dark color and thickness. In diameter, they can reach 4-5 cm and in appearance something like carrots. Such representatives may appear in the first year of life after landing. Such samples must be purchased in the respective nurseries, under the leadership of competent professionals - and in no way.

If you got a sapling received from a gag, then the roots of it will be blonde, thin and long. After landing, the flowers can be seen after 4 years (approximately). In the "scheme" of receiving the challenges there is nothing new: healthy and strong escape with the kidneys bend to the ground, they pinch, fall asleep with soil. After a certain time, the roots germinate from the kidneys, the escape is trimmed and divided into several fragments with roots.

By purchasing such a seedling obtained from a gag, pay attention to its roots to be naked, and the plant itself had a minimum of 5 capable kidneys. The length of such a seedling should be at least 25 cm!

To beautifully blooming the bush developed well, it was strong and healthy, the very first - choose a comfortable time and place to land. The most favorable period is considered to be the end of summer / early autumn. If possible, determine the sublime place illuminated by the rays of the sun. Growing nursing trees or various buildings will create a thick shadow - and this is unacceptable for any peony. Light shading is the most optimal place. Winds and drafts are also extremely undesirable. What swinging planting in the spring, then it is not recommended due to the complex adaptation of the plant, because during this period growth and flowering is activated.

Suglinka is the perfect soil for a given flower, if sandy soil prevails on your site, then make a ringer in it, clay, peat, humus. Organic fertilizers and pure river sands are able to significantly improve the composition of the Earth for the harmonious development of peony. He also does not like the acid soil, so it's in advance "deoxidate" it is added to the addition of lime. Sit the flower where there is no low groundwater running, but if there is no other possibility, then the pit for it needs to be made quite deep (about 70-80 cm, diameter is similar. To the bottom of the deepening lay a layer of drainage, somewhere 30-35 cm, crushed stone or gravel with small fractions are perfect for this business. In extreme case, 30 cm layer river sand You can also use.

PION tree - how to plant? There is nothing complicated here: to build a small hormick from the ground in the pit, put a bush on it, straighten the roots generously with water. After the moisture is absorbed into the ground, spray a seedling so that its root neck is located at one level with the surface of the soil.

If you sit at once a few bushes, do not forget about the distance between them, it should be at least two meters of one plant from another!

The so-called "quieterness" is to find the golden middle - creating optimal and harmonious conditions. The burning sun is harmful, but the thick shadow is unacceptable, he loves the water, but the overvailing is fraught with the reinforcement of the roots, and the free space is necessary for the flower to scratch and become a chic lush shrub. Soil is important, for it is a plant nutrition, so it should be fertile and loose, draned. In principle, in this problem there is nothing complicated for an enthusiastic gardener, as each green resident requires attention, but he rewards according to the beauty and awareness of the success, that it still happened, growing, blooming and smells!

PION tree landing and care - additions (optional):

1. Some gardeners say that the landing pit should first be "mature". I have already written with fertilizers and additives about dilution with fertilizers and additives, but according to some experienced flower water, this pit should be prepared a month before planting a seedling. That is, to make all additives in advance, and only then plunge the sapling in the pit.
2. When the seedling in the ground is blown in the ground, its lowest kidney must be embedded in the soil by about 15 cm. Some gardeners are recommended to put such "pie" in advance: a layer of humus, a thin layer of the earth, add a complex feeder, to evenly scatter on it 1 Copper spoon (with a slide) copper mood. For a lot of reliability, you can mix a bit of greased lime with the soil (to reduce the pH).
3. If the seedling got to you in the hands of late autumn or in winter, then "stick" it until the end of the future summer. To do this, take a small pot with a suitable landfill, burst into it a bush, put it in a cool, but lit room. For the whole period, the flower will strengthen the roots, and in the last weeks of August or the first two weeks of September, you can plant it at a permanent place of residence in open soil.

Listen to these additions or plant a plant without special tricks - choose to you. As practice shows, with proper compliance with all the requirements, in both cases you will receive a positive result.

The main care for it, in principle, the same as for grassy. From time to time you should loosen the soil, remove weeds, fertilize it. If your bush boasts an abundance of colors and shoots, be sure to create support for him so that the branches do not break the branches under the weight.

One bush requires approximately 6-8 liters of water, such an abundant watering should be carried out at least 2 times a month. At the same time consider the possible fallout of precipitation! During the summer heat, this can be done more often - the condition of the soil and the flower itself will tell you. Approximately from August, water volumes during watering should be gradually reduced to a complete exception. Enjoy the Earth around the bush recommended a couple of days after watering, when the top of the earth will dry up. The depth of immersion of the garden tool into the soil under loosening should be no more than 5 cm. Mulching can be humused, but its layer should not be too thick.

Peony loves nitrogen and potassium very much, it needs to be made regularly. Azotic feeders are relevant at the very beginning of the growing season, and potash-phosphoric additives will be appropriate from the moment when the PION starts to form floral kidneys and until the end of the vegetation phase. When the bush starts to give flowers, in addition to its favorite potassium and phosphorus, you can add a little nitrogen. However, it should be remembered that the oversupply of this component may heat it, therefore, to make nitrogen on this period or not - choose to you. Sometimes it is better to bother than to overdue - this is just such a case regarding nitrogen fertilizer. Do not forget to abundantly moisturize the Earth before making feeding - this will create a protective background for the root flower root system.

While your peony stays at a young age, the first 2.5-3 years, fertilizers contribute to the extraxornic method: approximately 35-40 g of mineral additives are bred in a bucket of water (10 liters) and irrigated a bush with a pulverizer after each irrigation. Thus, the plant receives "food" through foliage and shoots. Adult representatives spend a feeder three times a year: in the spring, during the appearance of new shoots, during the swelling of the kidneys, after the bush finally wonders.

As mentioned above, the tree-like peony is cold-resistant, but purchased instances need mandatory protection in winter. It will be better if the first couple of years you will cover them on the winter by Loutrasil, sponbond, burlap or sweetheart. Additionally, you can make a "hat" from snow. On the cultivation and protection of (even adults) peonies in the cold regions were mentioned above.

Like any plant, it needs pruning, but it is rather careful. This procedure should be carried out early in spring, when the growing season has not yet begun. All damaged, perhaps and dead branches need to be removed. Old shoots are shortened by about 10-15 cm.

In China, there is a tendency, every 10 years produce a radical rejuvenating trimming - when shoots cut out almost under the root. This manipulation is aimed at the awakening, activation of new kidneys, which subsequently gives a "second life" a flower.

Or each branch is cut to the border of the second kidney - this trimming contributes to the abundant and lush flowering of the shrub. As they have in China - they are visible to them, and in our regions, according to experienced observations, the tree-shaped peony does not like trimming, therefore, with the onset of spring, spend at least removal of damaged and dry escapes. If you have noticed that some branches strongly jerked, do not hurry to cut them down, it is possible that the kidneys will still "move away", wake up and dissolve - this also happens.

Main diseases and methods to combat them:

1. The most dangerous and cunning enemy is gray rot (she is Botritis). This fungal disease is activated when the soil and disadvantage of the soil (for example, when rainy summer). On the leaves, grayish is shown - if you noticed it, then immediately cut suspicious fragments and burn somewhere away from the site. Another sign of this disease is softening and a sharp wiping of young and strong shoots. It is treated by irrigation by manganese (4 g per 10 liters of water) and a 7% solution of copper sulfate (copper vitrios), also diluted with water. It should be irrigated not only the ground part of the bush, but also the soil around it, and even mulch.
2. Buuray spotty - the same actions. She serve as irrigation with a weawing solution of manganese (4 g per 10 liters of water). The amazed leaves also require immediate removal and destruction, and the bush itself (ground part) is treated with 1% burglar liquid.
3. Rust (some gardeners argue that this is a synonym for a drone spot) very quickly strikes the bush, it even happens that the whole plant is destroyed during the day. First on the leaves there are brown-violet stains, and then the foliage is sharply twisted and at the same time dry out. Treatment radical - removal of all the affected parts of the shrub and their destruction. In the case of rust, prevention helps well: timely loosening of the soil to ensure the influx of fresh air (the removal of weeds and the thinning of others, a number of growing plants). Early spring, even before the shoots appear, or in the late autumn, when they all fall, the land under the bush and around it need to be treated with a solution of nitrafenional solution, 200 g for 1 water bucket will be enough.
4. The annular mosaic of foliage is another viral disease that is manifested by the appearance of strips and "rings" on the leaves. These lesions have a yellowish or light green shade, as practice shows, the flowering and development of the bush, the ring-shaped mosaic does not particularly affect, but appearance The foliage spoils. Strips over time dry and leaf as it can crack. Contact fungicide "Maxim" copes well with this disease, it should be breeding as indicated on the packaging.

By the way, the diseases are very often transmitted not only through the contaminated planting material or the soil, but also through garden tools. Insects, even ordinary ants can carry fungus or a virus on healthy bushes.

A real garden aristocrat is a tree-like peony, cultivation and care, as well as an approach to oneself, oddly enough, requires a very unpretentious and no special requests. This exquisite plant harmoniously combines the qualities of a decorative flower and shrub. The long-liver will delight you and your loved ones with your beauty for so many years and even decades.

Peonies have long been famous for its lush blossom And unpretentious. That is why gardeners prefer this shrub. Of course, there are some nuances in the process of cultivation. Consider the plant of planting and leaving the plant, and also learn whether it is necessary to trim the tree peonies before the winter period.

The tree-like peony is a leafy shrub. The size of the plant can reach 1.5-2 meters. Ornamental flower leaves, openwork. Stems brown, thin enough. It is worth noting that they do not die in autumn, but only grow up every year. Large flowers with a diameter of 12-20 centimeters are located at the ends of the shoots.

There are many colors: ranging from white and light pink, ending with bright purple, crimson. There are two-color species. Tree peony cold-resistant.

There are three main plants:

1. Japanese.
2. Sino-European.
3. Hybrid.

The number of colors is directly proportional to the age of peony: the older than he, the more flourishing. The average period of flowering plants is about two to three weeks. Landing and caring for tree peonies is standard, but it is necessary to pay attention to the peculiarities of the plant.

Growing conditions

Peonies are considered light-loving plants, it is because of this for harmonious growth, a sunny plot will be required, best - on a small elevation. Plants poor tolerate transplantTherefore, the landing site should be permanent. It is better if there are no other large plants around: such as shrubs or trees.

The cultivation of a tree-like peony will require advance preparation of the place and soil. Flooded areas with excessive humidity are not suitable for the growth of tree peony. If there is no alternative, you will need to install drainage and ensure that there is extracted moisture. Prefer the soil with alkaline reaction (from 7.5 to 8 pH).

Planting a tree peony

An excellent time for planting a tree peony can be rightfully called the period from mid-August and before the beginning of October. It is necessary to choose a protected from the wind and a well-lit land. We will consider in detail the process of growing plants from a seedling, but there is also an option to grow a tree peony from seeds.

Before boarding, make sure that the soil is sublinous and moisturized. With increased soil dryness, add humus, clay or peat into it. Too heavy, clay soil can be diluted with organic fertilizers or sand. If the soil is acidic, make it lime or bone flour.

Planting process

It will be necessary to dig a hole of the cone-shaped. The diameter of the hole at the surface, as well as its depth - approximately 60-70 centimeters. Then make a small layer of drainage from gravel, crumple or broken brick, not more than 20 centimeters. When landing several plants, a distance of 1.5-2 meters will be required.

It is best if the soil has time to settle - so the pits will have to dig in advance, in two or three weeks before the landing.

Place the fertile soil from above so that it forms a small holly. Now it is necessary to plant and abundantly pour a seedling of tree peony. After some time, the Earth will fall independently, and the roots will straighten.

If there are buds on the seedlings, they must be removed. After completely absorbing the liquid, fall asleep the pit. Soil soil is not required.

Plant care

The care process spends quite a long time, but only with complex care you will save the plant healthy. The following activities are most important:

• soil looser after watering,
• watering,
• removal of porger plants.

Watering mode is standard for peonies of any variety: they are watered twice a month, 6-7 liters of water on the bush. Of course, you need to consider natural conditions, and with a hot climate, moisturize landing is plentiful. In August, watering can be reduced, and in the autumn it is necessary to completely stop it.

Podon feeding is most important in the spring, as plants need nitrogen fertilizers.

For the formation of buds, take fertilizers with potassium and phosphorus. Do not forget that the overabundance of nitrogen fertilizers leads to the death of landing. Mulching using humus useful in the summer.

The formation of a tree of a tree-like peony allows you to give a beautiful appearance. During the swelling of the kidneys (in the spring), it is necessary to cut damaged and dried shoots, and branches cut to the upper stubble point.

By the beginning of November, it is necessary to tie the shoots of the plant, the rolling circle to be meditated. Crop the plant will be required by two thirds of the length of the leaves, which will increase the frost resistance. At the first frost, peonies are covered with a burlap or pagan.

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Tree PION Care Fall Preparation for Winter. Especially for readers "Popular About Health" I will consider how to properly complete the season for such a plant as a tree-like pion - care in the fall, preparation for winter in what consist for him. How to perform all the necessary manipulations to make it beautiful plant And next year, pleased the gardeners with their stunning flowers?

Features of a tree peony

The tree-like peony is a leafy shrub, the height of which varies from 150 to 200 centimeters. Thick upright shoots painted in pale - brown color. Unlike herbaceous peony stems of such a plant in autumn time Do not fade, but every year more and more are growing, and with time, the bus acquires a ball with a spheroid form. Ornamental, openwork leaflets are twice cereals. Flowers are placed at the ends of the stems, their diameter varies from 12 to 20 centimeters or more. Such flowers are terry, semi terry and simple. They can be painted in white, purple, yellow, pink, crimson color, and also meet two-color. With age, bloom is becoming more abundant. The flowering of such a peony begins on 2 weeks before herbal, and its duration - 14-21 days. Such peonies have stability to cold.

Preparation of tree peony for winter

During the preparation of the plant for the winter, flowers begin to reflect on how to keep peonies in the winter, whether it is necessary to strengthen the tree-like peony for the winter and how to do it.

In fact, in the flowering literature, opinions diverge, some authors recommend covering peonies during the winter months, others consider it excess. In fact, Peonya is not so afraid of frost, as early spring thaw, during which they can wake up non-snow or hiding the peony kidney material, and, as a rule, the following heat from the frost can destroy the plant towards growth. Therefore, the conclusion suggests itself that the shelter of peony for the winter is completely unchecked.

In order to hide the peony, in October you need to link the shoots, to climb the rolling circle to peat (humorous), and with the onset of cold weather it is better to cover the plant, salary from the husterie, foliage, a thick layer of crushed bark, sawdust or simply bags of jute to winter Peony passed normally.

If we are talking about a grassy peony, after flowering, its stems must be cut off to a level of 5-7 cm above the ground, to climb the same as described above in the case of wood peony. If you live in a very cold area, it will not be superfluous.

In principle, these are the main aspects that will help you correctly care for peonies after flowering and prepare them well to winter.

Autumn trimming of a tree peony for winter

When trim peonies for the winter

Preparing plants for winter is a fairly responsible event, because with premature trimming there is a risk to ruin the whole flower. That is why the question is when to cut the bushes for the winter is very important.

Here we should focus on the appearance of the bush. If all of his stems fall to the ground - you can proceed to the procedure.

Features trimming tree peony

Plants for the winter should be trimmed under the root. All remote parts of the plant (stems, leaves) should be taken out of the flower bed to prevent the development of pathogenic fungi. Cut bushes need to be covered by frost.

Rules Trimming Tree Peeon

There are some rules that will help answer the question whether it is necessary to cut the bushes after flowering, and how to do it.

So that the procedure has passed successfully, you need to do the following:

Start trimming for the winter after the first frosts, when all the stalks of the bush will be devastated to the ground.

Plants Stems should be cut almost under the root, leaving the sprouts over the kidneys not more than 10 cm.

Remaining root system It is necessary to thoroughly cover from cold weather with a humoring or dry peat.

How to hide a tree pion for winter

According to experienced gardeners, insulation the tree-shaped peony for the winter is completely simple. First you need to sprinkle the rolling circle peat, and with the onset of frosts, you will need only a few branches of ate, from which you need to build around something like a shala. So that the slashes did not crumble, tie the branches with twine.

Alternatively, you can prepare in advance oak leaves and fill them with the frame built around the bush. It is additionally needed to cover with dampness.

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The peat layer, which you will sprinkle the land around bushes, should be at least 10 cm. For the northern regions, it can be increased to 15-20 cm. This warm shelter will not only save the plant, but also will give the spring nutrients necessary for growth and development. . In this way, the peonies so far will bloom, because peat and humus will become a good growth stimulant for plants.

Breeding of a tree peony seeds

With the help of seeds, you can not only multiply, but also get your own varieties of tree peonies, which will not be in the same garden. When the peony is reproduced by the seeds, you need to have time to get it right and in time. For this, two weeks after flowering, seed boxes are tied with gauze - such a technique will allow not to lose a single ridden seed. Collect seeds when the boxes are revealed, and the seeds will fall out into the gauze.

Seeds of a tree-like peony quickly lose their germination, so their sowing is carried out in the year of collection.

For sowing, a regular plastic deep box is prepared (for example, from under fruit) and a suitable pallet to it. Prepare the soil mixture of peat and sand in a 2: 1 ratio.

The collected seeds have a very solid shell, which should be broken, i.e. Skarify. I use two sheets of sandpaper shallow fraction for this. I put several seeds on one sheet and covering the second sheet of sandpaper, pressed the palm on it and rolling the seeds, and you can use the file.

Place the seeds in a crate with a moistened ground with a depth of 1.5 cm, supraated with a layer of river sand at 0.5 cm. In order for the soil to sing, the box is inserted into the bag and tightly tie (using large garbage bags). Seeds are sown rarely, with a distance of 10-15 cm from each other, because in the box they have to carry out considerable time, and should not be tested. To withstand all the recommendations regarding the temperature, I choose a hot day for sowing and put a box to a greenhouse at noon. There, the seeds warm as in the sauna, and in the evening the temperature slowly decreases, which also corresponds to the conditions of sowing. In the evening (in the area 22:00) I take a drawer from the greenhouse and put in the refrigerator, where sprouts should appear after a while.

As soon as the plants proceed, pull out the box and instil it on the garden (already without a pallet), around building greenhouse by analogy with cuttings, also shelter and for the winter.

Breeding of a tree peony with cuttings

How to propagate tree peonies with cuttings? Step by step describing this procedure. Guided by our instructions, even newcomers can cope with her. The best moment for cutting cuttings with the floor of the weird shoots, having well-formed kidneys, is mid-June.

Armed with a sharp knife, cut the cuttings, making oblique cuts right under the kidney.

All leafy plates must be shortened, leaving only 1/3 of their former length.

Processing the sections with a stimulant of the root of education, the cuttings at an angle of forty-five degrees are planted in a seating box filled with a mixture of peat and washed river sand taken in an equal ratio. The kidneys should completely burst into the soil and trace so that the cuttings do not touch each other.

To prevent the evaporation of moisture, the substrate surface in the box is covered by one and a half centimeter layer of sainted sand.

Cut the boxes polyethylene film Or glass, throughout the entire period of rooting the planting material, care about the constant level of soil moisture, not forgetting the need for regular ventilation of improvised greenhouse.

In September or early October, the rooted cuttings are quite prepared for transplant to individual pots. The best place for their content before the onset of spring and transplantation to a permanent place is a greenhouse.

The minuses of this method of reproduction of tree peonies is the high complexity and complexity of the process of rooting cuttings and the extremely slow development of young plants (they are blooming only by the fifth year of life).

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Breeding of a tree peony with tanks

Choose escape that is as close as possible to the soil level. In May, make an incision on it, but not very deep, and process it with a stimulant to form roots. Escape tilted to the ground and fix. From above, about 15 cm of soil are poured. By the autumn, the gods will already allow the roots, then it is separated from the bush and transplant to a new place.

You can get a new bush, rooting air chains. For this, it is similar to an incision, processed by a stimulator, but then wrapping with moss and film. In August, the roots should appear, such a method of 100% of the guarantee of success, unfortunately, does not give.

Grafting of a tree peony

The best term for the vaccination of the tree-like peony is the end of August. We serve the segments of the root of grassy or tree pions 10-15 cm long; The root thickness must match the thickness of the cutter. Roots dig in 2-3 weeks and withstand in a cool place. Provision - Only shoots current year, preferably with two eyes. Vine-shaped vaccination. Make a wedged cutout. The lower part of the lead do trin in the form of a wedge. The surfaces of the lead and the stock must be completely smooth to coincide with Cambial layers. Insert the trigger in the dot, tightly impose with insulating tape (adhesive side outward) and dear garden water.

Grafted plants can be planted into the ground immediately after vaccination. But better grafted material to land first for 3-4 weeks in the shylorn from direct sunlight. Greenhouse, leaving the soil level above, and water regularly. Another option-grafted material 3-4 weeks to withstand in the basement - in a horizontal position, in 2-3 layers, shifting with wet sawdust.

Side vaccination. Cut on a diagonal at a low angle. Under the same angle, cut the root. Combined with the brought and insert tightly tie and dear garden borants.

Diseases and pests of tree peon

The tree-shaped peony is more resistant to diseases than his herbal fellow. The only significant threat can be a gray rot, the development of which contributes to an extra moisture. In this case, the affected leaves should be immediately removed and burn, and the plant itself is treated with a solution of copper sulfate or manganese.

If you want to start a spectacular and unusual perennial plant on your site, then let it be a tree-like peony. Preparation for winter and care for it will not take a long time, and unusual view And bright colors will delight the eyes and amazing guests. You can plant it as single bushes and in a group landing, for example, with conventional herbaceous peonies. And let the shrub seedlings are quite expensive, but its many years of flowering with interest compensates for all costs.

It is believed that PION belongs to those blooming perennials that do not require special care. However, if in the fall not to hold a number of the necessary agrotechnical events, next year of active flowering from this perennial can not be waited.

How to properly prepare plants in the fall to the upcoming cold, which care is needed by these colors in the fall, how to trim the peonies for the winter correctly, whether it is necessary to strengthen them for the winter - it will be told about this and many other things below.

Caring for flowers in autumn

Autumn is the most important time in the process of peony care. Usually in spring and during the summer, the main care for these blooming bushes is timely watering, soil loans, the removal of weeds and cutting the flowing buds. And what should be done in the fall, when this perennial is actively preparing for the upcoming cold?

• feeding flowering shrubs;
• the transplant of shrubs (if there is a need for this);
• autumn trimming;
• mulching around bushes.

There are no other care of peonies in the fall during preparing them for winter. There are no special and specific nuances in the fall of the plant in the fall.

Features of preparation for winter

Pruning is the most important part of the preparation of peonies by winter. Therefore, it should be stopped in more detail on this procedure in the autumn period, when both the flowers are subjected to the procedure, as well as when you need to make the last feeding of these colors, and why it is needed by these blooming plants.

Is it necessary to cut a plant for winter

Many flowerflowers are wondering - whether it is necessary to crop peonies for the winter in the fall. And some novice flowerflowers do not understand why it is necessary to cut off the foliage on this many years of shrub, because these leaves are not amazed by any diseases or pests, and simply in the autumn period they turn yellow, dry - so the next cycle of the development of this flower is completed.

But at the same time, they forget that the remaining unreight of the tagged foliage is an ideal place for wintering various harmful insects, their larvae or the testicles pending. Also there can "hide" pathogenic microorganisms.

Therefore, it is necessary to cut down such leaves of peonies in the fall. This is a mandatory sanitary event that is worth performing at the end of each summer season.

Some gardeners postpone a similar event for the spring, but not worth it to do that in the spring, unexpected guests appear in the site, "harmful" bugs who overwhelm the plants in the unfortunate leaflets. Therefore, it is necessary to trim the leaves of peonies for the winter.

When to crop the plant in the fall

In this case, the deadlines are also important. So, when can you cut peonies for the winter? The first trimming is carried out after the end of flowering - at this time only all the boiled flowers are removed, the foliage should not be touched.

The fact is that after the end of flowering in the leaves, the photosynthesis process continues, which allows the roots of the plant to accumulate the beneficial substances necessary to them for growth, the restoration of forces after flowering, as well as strengthening the resistance to the upcoming frosts.

Therefore, early removal of leaves instead of benefit brings shrubs only harm.

The flowers of the already weakened after the active growth of the vegetative mass and abundant flowering, so they need enhanced nutrition, and photosynthesis helps to decompose with the useful substances entering the foliage of the root system.

Therefore, the process of trimming of peonies is made in autumn after the first frosts. The leaflets will then lie on the ground, and it will be the main sign that the peonies are time to cut.

Until this time, nutrients that are formed in foliage were actively enrolled in the root system.

Some flowers begin to trim the foliage of peonies for the winter when she starts to change their color from green on yellow, bronze, pink or red. Such a procedure lovers perform exclusively due to decrease in decorativeness in shrubs. However, it dries before the time of foliage only in squeezed shrubs, and a healthy foliage serves a perennial to accumulate in the underground part of the required amount of useful elements.

And if there is a need for earlier cutting off the leaves, then you should leave at least 2-3 sheets on each stem, which will recycle useful elements obtained with the juice from the root system.

Instructions and procedure scheme

There are no special nuances when conducting a procedure for ordinary peonies. Usually they are cut into them when all the foliage has fallen to the ground. In different regions, the timing of such trimming of peonies is distinguished in the fall due to the different time of frosts, after which they make a similar procedure. These shrubs, stalks are cut to almost to the level of soil, leaving them sticking out of the soil on a couple of centimeters.

And completely different is the procedure for trimming tree peonies in the fall. They distinguish the following types of procedure:

• forming;
• to rejuvenate shrubs.

In the first case, such trimming of peonies is needed in autumn to give the bushes a beautiful decorative shape. Therefore, the autumn cuts off all the weeds of 0.7-0.9 m. In this case, the next year on the bushes will be formed more Young shoots, as well as this procedure contributes to abundant flowering of perennial. In addition, curved bushes are easier to cover before the onset of frosts. But in the context of the European part of our country, tree varieties can grow up to 2.5 m in height.

The rejuvenating trimming of peonies in the fall is produced once every 10-15 years to remove old shoots and activate the growth of new ones. The need for this procedure is easy to notice - the bushes are growing worse during the season, and blooming significantly decreases or stops at all. With a correct and timely rejuvenating procedure, you can keep the life of this blooming perennial for 60-80 years.

Important! All cut shoots together with foliage immediately remove from the site and burned, and the places of sections and the soil sprinkle ash for disinfection.

Video: How to trim the peonies for the winter.

Care of peonies after trimming, feeding

Supporting peonies usually make a couple of weeks before the onset of frosts. The usual deadlines for making autumn fertilizers - from the second decade of September to the first decade of October. Specific deadlines depend on the climatic conditions of the region in which these flowers grow.

Important! In the fall, any nitrogen fertilizers do not apply as feeding, so that the shrub does not go before in winter in growth.

Usually, mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus and potassium contribute to warm autumn dry days. These elements are required at the beginning of autumn, the root system is necessary, which during this period continues to grow and accumulate useful substances.

Advantages of this way of feeding:

• the next year, stronger and big kidneys grow on the stems;
• blossoms of bushes next season will be more active;
• flowers will be larger in size, and their painting is more intense;
• the phosphorus-potash fertilizers contribute to strengthening the root system, allow it to strengthen the protective forces to the upcoming cold, and the bushes themselves are growing stronger and stronger to the next year.

Undercine during this period contribute in the following ways:

• dry;
• liquid.

If autumn turned out to be dry, then phosphorous-potash fertilizers are better breeding in water according to the instructions and directly under the roots. On each bush there is enough liter of such a solution.

In rainy weather it is better to use granular fertilizers, which gradually decompose in the soil and come to the roots of certain portions. Usually, dry fertilizers spread around the plants stalks, slightly closeing them in the ground.

Video: Preparation of peonies for winter, trimming time, fertilizer.

How to cover peonies for the winter

Circumcision of peeons and fertilizer bushes is not all measures for the preparation of this blooming perennial by winter. It is important to protect the peonies correctly for the winter so that they do not extinate during the winter frost. This procedure is particularly relevant in those regions where strong frosts are in winter, and the amount of snow dropped little.

Growth kidneys of this flower are locked in the soil at a depth of no more than 6 cm, so the first thing the trimmed bushes should be dipped.

From above, you should lay a layer of mulch with a thickness of at least 15-18 cm. You can use sawdust, spruce husk, riding peat, dry foliage, humid or compost as such a material.

It should be remembered! As an injection material, a cut-off plant foliage cannot be used. It usually attracts "harmful" insects and pathogenic microorganisms.

During the winter, you can additionally strengthen the peonies with a layer of snow - it will serve as an additional "warming" material during the period of strong cold weather.

Features of preparation for the Winter of the Tree Peony

On the whole European territory of our country, tree peonies can not be covered for the winter, because they, as a rule, can be perfectly overwhelming and without shelter. But only if they grow in a quiet place where cold winds do not raise during the season. Moreover, the Earth at this time of the year can freeze to a depth of 0.8-1.0 m, and the Street Termometer Stage is descended to -28⸰.

Young bushes of tree peonies are comfortable for the winter. To do this, they are covered with a layer of peat (up to 20 cm thick), and from above put an inverted bucket.

Although many flower trees cut this type of peonies in the fall, but experts believe that it is better to do all kinds of trimming of tree peonies in the spring.

Video: Whether it is necessary to cover the tree-like peony for the winter.

Features of cooking preparations depending on the region

In different regions of our country, there are nuances of preparing peonies by winter. It should be considered how to prepare these shrubs for winter in areas with different climatic conditions:

1. In Siberiabe sure to cover peonies for the winter using various mulching materials. Such a shelter should be more solid than in warmer regions. Usually over the layer of mulch, cardboard boxes, buckets or plastic containers are put.
2. In the Urals The shelter of peonies is also mandatory. Moreover, the shelter process is similar to what is carried out in the territory of Siberian regions.
3. In the Volga region You can not cover the peonies for the winter so carefully - it is enough just to make a layer of mulching material.
4. In the middle lane (Moscow region) For high-quality preparation of peonies, they are better to cover them in open areas in the case of frostyless winter winter.

Typical errors

Many novice flower products often allow a number of errors in the preparation of peonies to the coming cold.

Note the most common:

• conducting trim too early - before the onset of the first frosts;
• do not remove the foliage foliage in the fall, and do it at the beginning of the next season;
• in rainy weather, it is added to this blooming perennial liquid kind of feeding, as a result, not all fertilizers are "absorbed" roots;
• incorrectly cover peonies for the winter.

Video: Proper trimming of peonies in the fall.

Preparing peonies for winter - a very important process, from proper holding which depends on how much the bushes will be ready for the next season. Therefore, flowers should pay attention to the careful compliance with all rules for the preparation of these blooming perennials To the cold season.

Those who are already breeding or just going to decorate their garden to the bushes of peonies, it is necessary to know what "surprises" fear. Conditionally all the troubles that can harm the flower can be divided into such categories:

• fungal, they include gray rot (Botritis), rust and spotty (white or brown);
• viral, here refers to a ring mosaic of leaves;
• pests, especially like this plant of caterpillar, wave, bronze and others.

All of them are very influenced by the decorative quality of the flower, and on its lively. But do not despair, we will help you in the treatment of peonies. Your task is to free the plant from all unwanted guests. And do it will have to do on their own. We will analyze each of the types of defeat separately.

Gray rot - not the easiest rival

The second name of this disease is Botritis - very sonorous. Unfortunately, there is little pleasant in it. Her causative agent is a mushroom, whose disputes do not die even in winter. They feel great on rhizome bush and even in the upper layer of land where he is sitting. In the spring, the fungus begins to actively develop and simply captivates the entire plant, which can be inhaling. It is necessary to show a special vigilance if the spring was crushed and raw.

Especially comfortable gray rotting feels on clay soil or soil with close grounding water, in flooded waters, zones. Provice the disease can also excess nitrogen fertilizers. Recognize this enemy is easy. At the stem, the dark raid appears on the stem, from which the stem darkens, weakens and is prehast. Sometimes on young leaves (on their tips) brown spots arise. Soon they dry out, deform and fly away. The same thing happens with fresh buds.

It is known that the fight against fungus - the process is quite difficult and long. Here are several important tips By agrotechnik to avoid illness:

1. pion landing should not be thick;
2. it is impossible to allow an excess of mineral fertilizers;
3. in the fall, after trimming, it is necessary to burn all the remains of foliage and stems;
4. if the groundwater is close, it is necessary to carry out drainage.

And the processing can be carried out with the help of fungicidal preparations purchased in the store. These include: Copper Copper, Copper Summary, Bordeaux Liquid, Colloidal sulfur. Although that chemicalsBut their use will not only hurt, but also perfectly complement the agrotechnical measures of getting rid of the causative agent of gray rot. Each of these events separately, unfortunately, the effect will not give.

When using fungicides, it is necessary to pay attention to the precautions specified by the manufacturer on the label and the processing time. Council of experienced gardeners: In the fight against, make spraying of peonies with nitrophenium solution (200 g per 10 liters of water). Best of all in the fall after circumcision bush. Another way is to process the infusion of garlic (a teaspoon of ground garlic on 1 liter of water).

How to cope with rust?

Another fungal attack of all types of peonies is rust. It is waiting for a moment when the plant is wondering, and appears on the leaves in the form of brown, with a purple spidy of spots. If you turn the sheet, you can see the disputes. They are easily spread with wind and amaze healthy plants Literally in two or three days. As a result, in a short period, you can lose all planting of peonies even on large areas.

The rust is insidious what, like any mushroom, is resistant to frosts, and the pathogen perfectly winter in mushrooms. In the spring, it with a new force spreads and sucks the plant nutrients. Accordingly, the kidneys do not develop, the body weakens and dies.

In the struggle and prevention, all methods are good. As in the case of a gray rot, it is necessary to use a complex of agrotechnical events and spraying by fungicides (their set is the same as in the first case). It is also important to be vigilant: as soon as you noticed the mushroom on the leaves, cut them and immediately burn.

Spottedness - Agrochemistry against Disease

We have already said that it happens white or brown. They are the same symptoms. As a rule, the defeat begins at the beginning of summer and manifests itself on the leaves. Spots appear, first small, with a dark car. If not to localize the disease at the very beginning, the stains apply and merge. At these places the spores of the fungus are formed, the leaves dry out, the plant dies.

For the prevention and treatment of peonies, the fall of spraying with a weak solution of copper sulfate or DNOs is used. And in the spring, in front of their bootonization - copper chlorokising or cinet (0.5%). After the plant has fallen away, it is possible to continue to process the bordrian mixture or take Abiba Peik., Phytospril-M.. Experienced gardeners Successfully use cleanliness for these purposes, which grows as weed, but is very effective in combating fungi.

The solution is easily done, you need to soak the plant in water for 2-3 days, then strain. Scientists have revealed several more types of spottedness, in addition to Bura and Belaya. This is septoria and ascohithiosis, which are common mainly in the West of Russia, and phillostose (characteristic of the steppe zone). These are applicable to the same treatment and prevention as for all fungal peonies.

Ring mosaic of leaves - remove camouflage from peonies

Recall that this disease of peonies is a viral infection. It is dangerous that healthy, and infected shoots can grow on one bush. You need to recognize the patients on time: stripes or rings appear on the leaves, from light green to yellow. The disease is transmitted by a cutting knife and a secateur, therefore, if the plant is infected, it is necessary to carry out thermal processing of the tools.

Treat ring mosaic of leaves is easy. In the spring, when the buds are blooming, it's ruthlessly cut off sick shoots up to the rhizomes and burn them. If recurrence occurred, and the disease resumed, destroy the plant completely. If you are a primer processing, you can try Alorin. It is produced in tablets - how to breed it, you need to read in the instructions for use.

Pests and their weak points

This is perhaps the most difficult problem for gardeners, because pests are living beings that have a property of coming. But with proper care of the peonies of diseases and pests, it is not necessary to be afraid. Nowadays, there is a possibility of full getting rid of them.

• Aphid. Insects are easy to detect, they eat small bands on the leaves, as well as ticks and trips. To combat them several times in the season you need to spray. Insecticide drugs are suitable: Agrherthin, Chlorofos., Phytodemer and Confident. Prepare the solution will help you the manufacturer's instruction, and you need to handle in the proportion of 1 liter of the solution 10 m 2 of the planting.
• Bronze. The insect eats everything to fall on the way - petals, stamens, pestles. If you saw in the flowers of bright beetles with golden green color, this is a signal to action! Fight with bronze just: in the morning collect beetles straight from the bush and burn. By the way, this method is effective and when attacking peonies tracks and larvae. Make one of the drugs in the soil under the peonies: Initiative, Medvetoks. or Thunder. As an effective spraying of even affected flowers, it is recommended to use a solution against pests. Calypso.
• Gallic nematodes. These microscopic pest worm will work with the root system of the peony, completely hitting it. Of course, the bush will first chant, and soon dies. It is difficult to recognize the enemy, because it is not visible as the beetles or trouble. Need to carefully examine the root system. If you have noticed nodal education on it, it means there is a damage to gallic nematodes. If nevertheless, the root was attacking the pest, dig up and destroy the bushes and destroy, and pour the formalin solution (1%) into the formed hole. After unpacked this place and make mineral fertilizers.