Drawings of a small wooden boat. How are homemade plywood boats made? PVC boat

A boat is an indispensable means of transport in areas surrounded by water bodies. Also, for any fishing enthusiast, a good boat is an indispensable tool. To make a boat with your own hands, it will take a lot of time and effort, this also applies to the financial side. However, today there are many materials that allow you to quickly and inexpensively build a watercraft, one of which is foam. The information presented below will help you understand that making a foam boat is quite realistic.

Styrofoam is a fairly versatile material for making various DIY projects.

The polymer from which the foam is made has the form of a foamed mass. Due to this, there is a lot of air between its particles, which allows the material not to sink in water. In addition, the foam has good thermal insulation properties, low weight, high buoyancy due to the large area of the material and light weight. Styrofoam is available to everyone at a cost, and is also easily processed by a tool and glues well. But, this material is easily destroyed, so it cannot be bent and given complex shapes. Therefore, to give strength to a homemade boat, its hull is not made of solid foam, but of a sandwich sheathing, consisting of a layer of foam with glass mat. Sandwich technology lies in the fact that between the two layers of the material that takes on the main load, there is a separating layer of a lighter material. Thus, two layers of fiberglass are separated by foam.

You can use regular extruded polystyrene without fiberglass, but such a homemade foam boat will require sheathing of plywood or other protective material on the outside, such as film or tarpaulin.

Homemade foam boats: drawings

On the Internet you can find a lot of different models and drawings.

Before you make a boat out of foam, you need to draw up its project. To do this, it is necessary to draw all the components of the future structure with the exact dimensions and shape. Typically the boat is 2.6m long and 0.78m wide at the bottom. The hardest part of the design is making the hull out of parts that don't flex.

It is recommended to make drawings of the boat in full size in order to avoid errors in the calculations and be able to directly mark the details of the hull. The drawing is applied to plywood, the so-called plaza. On the plaza, the details of the boat are drawn, forming a bookmark, or the frame of the vessel - the keel, transom, knobs, stem, sternpost, indicating the width, height, cross section of the keel. To save space on the plazas, you can draw side and half-width projections one on top of the other, marking them with different colors. The projection of the hull should reflect the branches of the frame of both sides - right and left, which are best combined into bow and stern groups.

In order for the quality of the manufactured vessel to correspond to the project, it is necessary to take into account the rules for the location of theoretical lines: these are the lines of the surface of the outer skin, the inner decking, the stern and bow edges of the frames, as well as the edge lines of the carlings and stringers. In more detail, the design of the vessel and the assembly of the drawing can be viewed on the video.

How to make a boat out of foam with your own hands

Foam boat is easy to make

After making a drawing with a detailed drawing of all the elements of the boat, you can begin to assemble the frame. The inner, outer, and main skin will be attached to the skeleton of the boat. It must be durable, because the quality of the craft depends on it. The main skin, made of foam, gives the vessel stability and unsinkability on the water. The elements of the main skin must be tightly glued to each other so as not to let moisture through. The inner skin serves to protect the fragile foam from mechanical damage inside the vessel, and the outer skin - from the outside, it must be waterproof and durable.

Frame manufacturing

An important role is played by the frame of the boat

The skeleton of the boat is made of wooden blocks. This is an important part of the design, and it must be strong, rigid and reliable. It is assembled in parts: each component part is measured, and fastened together with screws or nails. To make the frame even more durable, metal corners and plates can be attached over the screw fasteners. The ribs of the frame are made of plywood. When it is assembled, you can start making skins.

Production of the main cladding

Carefully choose epoxy resins

The main plating will make it possible to make sure that the foam boat does not sink with your own hands, but keeps well on the water. For its manufacture, you need to take foam sheets 5-10 cm thick, epoxy glue, a sharp tool for cutting polystyrene foam, as well as measuring instruments.

Measurements of the area of \u200b\u200bthe frame of the entire boat are applied to the foam sheets. Then they are divided into separate measurements, which will later be collected together. Since the foam cannot be bent, the corner joints are made of three elements. To attach the foam to the frame, you can use epoxy glue, which glues the sheets, as well as nails with wide hats made of flat metal plates.

Fabrication of interior and exterior cladding

The inner skin serves as a protective frame for the main EPS skin. It helps to preserve the integrity of the material from various mechanical influences, including pressure from the weight of a person inside the vessel. Plywood can be used to make the inner lining. First, the area of the inner surface of the vessel is measured. You can sew up the entire area inside the boat completely or just the floor and the lower part of the sides. After taking measurements, they are applied to plywood, after which it is glued in separate parts to the main skin using epoxy glue. It is necessary to ensure that the plywood does not sag under the weight of a person, damaging the polystyrene foam.

The outer skin must be carried out so that the boat does not damage the bottom or sides of the uneven bottom or other obstacles. In addition, it will create a waterproof surface. To create a protective surface, plywood is glued to those places on the vessel where a hole is most likely to occur, as well as the bow of the boat. The rest of the hull can be covered with a tarpaulin for moisture resistance.

Do-it-yourself foam and fiberglass boat

Fiberglass is easy to buy on the construction market or order online

Homemade foam, pasted over with fiberglass, is made according to the following scheme:

After the project of the future vessel is made, as described earlier, it is necessary to make a model of the boat from plywood. Pieces of this material are cut out based on the elements of the project, glued together using epoxy-based glue (epoxy resin can also be used).
Around the plywood model, polystyrene sheets pre-prepared according to the drawing are glued together. For better adhesion of the joints, they can be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
The perimeter of the boat is covered with a frame of slats 10x30 mm in size.
The transom and stem must be attached to the plywood model with screws.
Further, the bottom and polystyrene are cut out, glued to the side and end parts, and the load is placed on top. Excess material at the joints must be cut off.
The boards that were fastened with screws are now glued. They were needed so that the polystyrene foam did not dent during gluing. The places of the holes from the screws are sealed with foam.
The surface of the boat is sanded with sandpaper.
Now you need to use fiberglass to glue the hull at the rate of material for 1 layer for the sides and 2 layers for the bottom.
The body needs to be puttied, then cleaned.
From the inside, the hull is also covered with fiberglass, the sides in 1 layer, and the bottom - with a double layer, then it is puttied and cleaned in the same way as the outer surface of the boat.

A 10x30 mm beam is also attached along the perimeter of the inner side, its fixation is carried out with stainless screws with countersunk heads. A hole is made between the inner and outer fenders, where rectangular bars are inserted from both sides for fastening the sub-keys. Subsequently, a socket made of a metal tube for oarlocks will be welded there. From above, the sides are also pasted over with fiberglass to exclude possible leaks between the bars to the expanded polystyrene. At the bottom, stringers are attached to the screws, covered with epoxy. The final finishing of the boat made of expanded polystyrene is carried out using an epoxy primer applied in two layers.

When making a plywood boat, you will face two main problems. First, you need to correctly measure and manufacture the parts. Secondly, it is important to correctly assemble the frame of the boat. Further in the article, I will describe in detail how to calculate the dimensions for all the components, and in the course of building the frame I will focus on especially important points.

Dimensions and drawings

The first thing to do is determine the size of the boat. We will make a boat 3000 mm long, 1400 wide and 500 mm high.
Decide on the length of the base of the frame. To do this, we need to know the length of the boat, two angles a and b, the height of the boat.

We know the length and height - 3000mm and 500mm. Angle a - 100, angle b - 120.

Knowing these values, we calculate the length of the frame base.

L=3000-(h*tg(a-90)+h*tg(b-90))=2623, where h is the height of the boat

Now find the length of the bow and transom. Since they are tilted, their length will be greater than the height of the boat.

Transom L= √(〖(h*tg(a-90))〗^2+h^2)=508

Nose L= √(〖(h*tg(b-90))〗^2+h^2)=577

You need to decide on the width of the bottom. Take half the width of the boat - 700 mm. The bottom width will be 10% smaller, i.e. 630 mm. The maximum width of the boat reaches 1/3 of the transom.

In our case, the maximum width will be at a distance of 1000 mm from the end of the boat. Thus, we transform the beam, so that the maximum bend would be at the point 1/3 * the length of the boat from the transom.

The length of the plywood for the side will be equal to the length of the transformed beams (upper and lower, respectively). The width will be equal to the length of the bow on one side and the length of the transom on the other.

Other sizes depend on the situation.

boat frame

The basis will be a bar 50 * 50 * 2523 mm. We fasten a transom 50 * 50 * 630 mm to it on one side, at an angle of 90 degrees. From the ends of the trance to the nose we fasten the deformed beams (the maximum bulge of the beam is 1000 mm from the transom).

We make 6 equally spaced cuts along the entire base (from the bottom side). Cutout dimensions 50*25 mm. We insert 6 beams 25 * 25 mm along the cuts made. We fasten them to the base and side beams. The lower part of the frame is ready.

We fasten the nose and transom. Between the bow and the transom, we again fasten the deformed beams, but now on the top. The distance between the board beams in height is 500 mm, in width 350 mm. In fact, our sides are located at an angle to the base (angle, approximately 120 degrees at the point of maximum convexity).

We make a frame for the sides

Note. Pay attention to how the beams are screwed: from the edge of the top to the edge of the bottom beam. It is important!
For this we use a bar 25 * 25 mm.

Frame sheathing

We fasten plywood to the beams with self-tapping screws 20 mm long. First we fix the sides. Plywood should fit snugly against the frame.

Then we sheathe the transom and the bottom of the boat

We glue all joints of plywood with waterproof glue. Apply glue to all parts of the boat that you think are vulnerable.

Next, we sew up the bow of the boat and fasten the seats. We sheathe the boat from the inside (optional). You can make a floor and not sheathe the sides, it all depends on how much plywood you have. Don't board the inside of the boat, this will add extra weight.

All the remaining details are also to your taste, the boat is ready and can be put on the water.

DOCOO - Especially for

Before lovers of fishing or just before people living near a body of water, sooner or later the question of purchasing a boat arises. It can provide not only pleasant water walks under the gentle sun, but also the availability of the most catchy places where trophy fish are found. It is very expensive for many to buy a boat ready for launching, but a do-it-yourself plywood boat will cost several times cheaper. And this process itself, interesting and creative, will bring a lot of pleasure.

Dispel doubts

After hearing the phrase - a plywood boat - some pessimists will twist their fingers to their heads and say that this is absolutely impossible. Like, to make a real floating craft out of thin and straight plywood, and even one that can withstand more than one person, is a utopia. In fact, this is quite possible. Moreover, you can build not just a small punt, but even a real sailing yacht, and if a small outboard motor is installed on the reinforced transom, and a cockpit is made on the bow, you get something like a boat. Yes, there, the boat will work. And these are not fishing tales.

Plywood comes in different thicknesses and strengths. It is even easier to cut parts from it to size and different configurations than from boards. In addition, it bends well enough to give the sides the desired roundness. There are also enough modern means to ensure the moisture resistance of a plywood boat. Therefore, for someone who decides to make a boat on their own, only three things are needed: desire, a working head and hands that are not afraid of work. Everything else can be easily found.

Well, the advantages of a plywood boat are simply undeniable:

Light weight. The simplest punt weighs only 15-20 kg.
A well-made boat can last a very long time.
There are projects of boats that can easily withstand up to 5 people.
Cheapness.

Preparations for work

Having set out to build a plywood boat on your own, the first step is to find an appropriate room in which all work will be carried out. It should be spacious, dry, with good lighting. Sudden temperature changes and high humidity are excluded categorically. All production will take enough time, which is stupid to waste in the summer, when you can do other things. Therefore, work is usually carried out either in winter or in spring, so that the atmosphere in the "production shop" plays a very important role. Untreated plywood does not tolerate moisture well, and glue and impregnating liquids are better and better applied when warm. Yes, and it is also better to paint the finished product in heat.

The second necessary action is a drawing. There should be no problems with this - you can find it on the Internet in just a few minutes. But even buying material without it is not worth it.

Without a well-executed drawing, there is no point in starting work.

Homemade plywood boats can be different, and you need to choose the project that you can do on your own. If this is the first shipbuilding experience, then it is best to choose the most ordinary punt project. Despite the simplicity of the design, it gives almost unlimited possibilities. You can hang a motor on it, and even put a mast. And under the oars she walks just fine.

Having calculated from the drawing what and how much material is needed, you can proceed to purchase it.

Material

It is not worth reminding that the material from which the plywood boat will be built must be of high quality. The plywood itself is without knots, glue is only from a trusted manufacturer, impregnating liquids too.

The whole list looks like this:

Sheet plywood 1.5-1.5 m, 5 mm thick, grades BS, BK or FSF.
Several boards, preferably oak.
Fiberglass.
Putty.
Waterproof glue.
Waterproof impregnation for wood or drying oil.
Waterproof enamel or oil paint.
Self-tapping screws.
Nails.
Copper wire.

When choosing plywood, it is necessary to carefully inspect the edges for chips and cracks on the ends. Hoping that it will be possible to saw off a couple of centimeters is not worth it. Everything else can be easily and at a very affordable price purchased at any hardware or hardware store.

Tool

A good owner, who is used to doing some repairs in the house on his own, already has a set of tools. Even with a vengeance. Directly building a boat will require the following arsenal:

Electric jigsaw.
Electroplaner.
Screwdriver.
A circular saw.
Grinder.
Plane.
Hacksaw.
A hammer.
Pliers.
Screwdrivers.
Metal ruler.
Chisel.
Spatulas.
Brushes.
Clamps.
Drawing set.
Graph paper.
Cardboard.

Having prepared everything according to these two lists, you can proceed directly to work.

Power tools make the job much easier.

We start to draw

Marking the contours of the boat directly on the plywood sheet will be rather reckless. A small mistake and the vessel will scour to the side or roll to one side. Therefore, it is better to first draw a diagram or sketch on graph paper in full size. Moreover, the word scheme is not very appropriate here, because it is necessary to strictly maintain the dimensions.

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

An center line is drawn dividing the bottom of the boat along.
At one end, a transom line is drawn perpendicularly immediately in size.
On the centerline itself, the installation points of the frames are marked.
At these points, perpendiculars are drawn to the size of the frames.
With the help of patterns, the bottom itself is drawn.
The resulting circuit is folded in half along the center line in order to check the symmetry.

Patterns of the sides, frames and transom are made in a similar way, taking into account their sizes and configurations. But the drawing doesn't end there. Now, after the symmetry of the bottom and the uniformity of the sides have been carefully checked, the stage of transferring the drawing to a cardboard template comes. The graph paper is too thin, but it will be much easier to transfer the drawing to plywood without errors from a cardboard template.

First gluing

If you managed to get sheet plywood that matches the size of the future boat in length, that's good. But if ordinary sheets of 1.5-1.5 meters are available, you will have to glue them. The best way is gluing on the "mustache".

Gluing on the "mustache" - the most durable connection of plywood sheets

A distance equal to 10-12 sheet thicknesses recedes from the edge of the sheet, and is ground down with a planer at an angle. After that, you need to go through the grinder and do the same operations with the second sheet. Cleaned and degreased surfaces are smeared with glue, carefully connected and fastened with clamps. Since clamps can only be placed at the edges, a load must be placed in the center. After the glue has dried, the clamps can be removed, but let the product rest for at least another day.

Detail cutting

After the glue has dried and all burrs and smudges at the gluing site have been removed, you can transfer the dimensions of the bottom and sides using cardboard templates. With this simple process, you should ensure that there are no allowances even for a couple of millimeters. Especially on different sides.

Then a jigsaw is used with a file with small teeth tucked into it. Large ones can mess up the cut edge. But even after a small one, it is better to carefully go through medium-sized sandpaper. You need to cut carefully, without rushing. One wrong move, the slightest deviation from the drawn line - and at best you have to go back a few centimeters, at worst, start this detail from the very beginning. That is, from drawing a new one.

You can draw and cut the frames at once in full size. But with the transom you have to think. If a motor boat is conceived, then it must be made reinforced. There are two options. One is to cut out several identical parts from plywood and glue them together. Or make a transom from a solid board with a thickness of at least 25 mm.

We start collecting

The assembly of the boat follows the principle of "sew and glue". It is better to start from the transom - then it will be easier to install the sides. In the back of the bottom and in the lower part of the transom, holes are drilled of such a diameter that the copper wire passes. The holes must be strictly opposite each other. With the help of pieces of wire, the transom is attached to the bottom. After making sure that the edges matched, you need to tighten the twists of the wire with pliers.

Instead of copper wire, you can take a wire of a suitable diameter

The sides are attached in a similar way, starting from the stern and ending with the last twist on the bow of the boat. At this point, a collapsible model has turned out, which can still be corrected. Cut off the excess, clean up the bumps. After the next operation, collapsible tactics can be forgotten.

Second gluing

Rather, gluing the seams between the bottom, sides and transom in order not only to secure the parts, but also to ensure moisture resistance. A strip of fiberglass is carefully placed on the seam and carefully coated with moisture-resistant glue. In this case, one layer is not enough. It will take at least three. And if the first layer of fiberglass is about 100 mm., That is, 50 on each side, then the second and third layers should be wider. 125-135 mm. it will be just right, only each subsequent layer needs to be shifted a little - one towards the bottom, the other, on the contrary, towards the side. This is done so that the fiberglass is in contact and glued directly to the plywood. After the glue dries well, this folding pad will turn into almost real plastic, and this will guarantee that the boat turned out to be moisture resistant.

Installation of frames

The frames are installed strictly in place on the adhesive base and screwed with self-tapping screws. After the glue dries, the screws are unscrewed, and the holes left by them are filled with the same glue. If nails are used instead of self-tapping screws, then wooden nails must be hammered into the holes after they are pulled out and smeared with glue.

Final waterproofing

This completes the construction of the boat. What remains is the interior and exterior trim, which serves not only for aesthetics, but also to ensure that the boat does not leak. Ordinary wooden boats are tarred, but with what to impregnate a plywood boat - there is a very specific answer to this question. Outside, all seams and the entire body are processed with fiberglass and glue, just like it was done when gluing the parts. Before this operation, the protruding wire should be removed or cut off. Inside the plywood boat is impregnated with hot drying oil.

When pasting the boat with fiberglass, you must carefully monitor that there are no bubbles

Painting

On this, the construction of a plywood boat can be considered completed. It will take some time to dry, and by and large it is already possible to swim on it. On oars, with the help of an engine, if they tried to make a transom for a motor, or even under sail, if this is provided for by the design. It is already completely waterproof, but absolutely not aesthetic. Painting - this is the very last stage, and then the manufacture of the boat will be completed completely.

There are two options here. Or oil paint - the color is chosen according to taste - for fishing something merging with nature, for walking you can brighten it up. Or waterproof enamel, selected according to the same principle. We'll have to wait a little longer until the paint or enamel dries - and you can safely go sailing.

The main thing

Before you start building a plywood boat yourself, you need to understand that such homemade products do not tolerate a negligent approach to business. This can affect not only the appearance of the product, but also your own safety and reliability. The first thing you need to pay special attention to is the room in which the work will be carried out. If it was decided to build a boat in winter or early spring, then drafts and high humidity should be excluded.

The second thing you need to pay special attention to is the material and tools. Plywood must be selected without knots, glue, paint and drying oil only from a trusted manufacturer. The tool must be in perfect order. The electric jigsaw is filled with a file with a small tooth size.

If a motorboat is planned, special attention should be paid to the transom. For its manufacture, it is better to take a solid oak board. Plywood glued in several layers is also suitable, but the board will be more reliable.

It is also strictly necessary to monitor the symmetry of the bottom and the uniformity of the sides. An incorrect bend of one side on a boat or on a boat, depending on what is being built, will lead to the fact that it will scour the water or take it in one direction.

And the last thing: there is no need to rush in any case. If the instructions for the glue indicate that it should dry for three days, then further work should be started only on the fourth. The same principles apply to paint and drying oil.

Building a plywood boat on your own is not an easy task. But there is nothing particularly difficult in this. You just need to spend some time and apply the maximum of knowledge and skills that can be easily obtained both on the Internet and from more knowledgeable people. But after the completion of this interesting and creative work, it will be possible to safely go to the reservoir on a unique watercraft built by one's own hands.

First of all, hello everyone! This boat has been in my dreams for a long time, - a few years ago I made a model of this boat, but everything was somehow lacking. And then my "Ufimka" burst (it's time already, it's from 1985), so much so that a meter-long hole was formed in the side in the form of the letter "G". Believe me, if I wanted to, I could also repair it, but imagine how much material I had at once: oarlocks, and excellent bottom and side fabric rubber, oars, etc. It remains for small - to purchase sheet plastic. I considered aluminum as an option, but after getting acquainted with the properties of polypropylene (it is also lighter than water), I finally settled on plastic. I’ll make a reservation right away, nothing happened with the propelen - about 1000 shek one sheet, but I need at least two. I picked up 3mm plastic with the main properties: do not crack under bending load and keep the rivet line from destruction (many samples cracked exactly along the line of holes for rivets) at a price of 200 NIS per sheet. My initial conditions were the following: a folding boat, with a maximum folded length of 1.5 m, 2-seater with a load capacity of at least 180 kg, absolute buoyancy, i.e. not sinking even when completely flooded, stern, keeled with a keel transition to a minimum at the stern, stable in waves, easy to use with oars and with a low dead weight, with an option for a small electric motor and with useful devices, such as a chest of drawers for accessories and boxes for bait under the seats, light racks for spinning and of course with a minimum time for installation and dismantling. I have gone through all of these options. Boat weight 18 kg. And now its dimensions: in working order, length 2.5 m, width 0.95 m, height of the sides 0.3 m, total height 0.45 m; in transport condition: length 1.5 m, width 0.3 m, package thickness 0.08 m. The kit also includes 2 seats, aft insert, frame stiffening tubes and oars. Now about how I had to achieve some parameters. Buoyancy - strips of material similar to soldier mattresses are glued along the sides (they do not sink and are moisture resistant), seats and feed are pasted over with the same strips, all frame tubes are plastic with plugs at the ends, which does not allow water to fill them, in extreme cases, if this will not be enough (although this is unlikely) I have marked places on the bow and stern of the boat for attaching 2 floats, similar to those that the rescuers from the famous series have). As a connecting material, I used rubber strips from the bottom, and the aft flexible part from the side of my "Ufimka", planted on glue with subsequent riveting. He carried out all the work in his apartment, in the absence of household members - fortunately, when they arrived, the whole system easily hid behind the sofa.

I indicated the weight of the boat -18kg. Cost: 400 sh - plastic, 100 sh - glue and rivets, 100 sh - pipe and couplings for the stiffening frame, 50 sh - connecting screws with wing nuts and fasteners for onboard plastic. Everything else: rubber and oarlocks from an old boat, plywood for seats and oarlocks - trimmings, edging along the top of the side - trimming pipes for drip irrigation. The rest is hands. And how much it can cost for sale, I don’t know, maybe the fishermen themselves will appreciate it? As for the pressure on the bottom seam, I distributed the main pressure (in a sitting position) into 3 seams, there is an option for connecting with a tube and side seams for oblique supports, as well as the keel part. As for the flooring, a wooden lattice 50x60cm between the seats with two transverse ribs along the outline of the bottom is sufficient. I also want to pull the umbrella fabric over the top with Velcro from the bow of the boat to the first seat in case of rain, to keep things dry. At first I wanted to make a 3-meter one, but I had to buy another sheet of plastic with a large residue after cutting. So I went to the minimum.

PS. The cost of materials is indicated in NIS.

Production time, so, leisurely, - about a week. It took a lot of time to find the right plastic. After all, I am retired, so when my household members left, I took everything out from behind the back of the sofa and did it. I already wrote that I had rubber, oarlocks and oars from a broken boat, and the rest is a matter of technology. But first I made a 25 cm model of thin plastic. And with this boat it was easier for me also because it is my second homemade boat. The first was a frame made of plastic pipes and a thin tarpaulin. She was in a disassembled state no longer than a meter. In short, a bag with tubes and a cover. Here's what I want to do as well. That one was even lighter, and with the current choice of material, there should be shine in general.
As for the pattern, everything is simple there. The width of the canvas is 30 cm, the short part is 1 meter long, the bow is 1.5 meters. Step back from the nasal edge 1 meter and reduce with two arcs to the middle. The photo is clearly visible. But, I advise all the same to start with a small model. There, instead of rubber, you can use adhesive tape (adhesive tape). On the model, you can provide for all possible options, and it is much easier to correct errors. To be honest, I did not betray the name of the plastic. At first I was looking for polypropylene, since it is not brittle and lighter than water, but it has an exorbitant (for me) price. Then he began to select according to the principle: crushed, felt, broke. The main condition is not to burst at full bend (this means that the body will not burst upon impact), not to crack along the holes for the rivets. And I kept the buoyancy in the flooded state due to additional side pads from the soldier's rug. Glue is ordinary rubber, but the main condition for gluing: cleaning, cleaning and degreasing the surfaces to be glued, and obligatory curing for min. 15 minutes after applying the adhesive, before bonding. And I also consider it very important to glue the edges of the rubber strips along the entire length of the boat with thin strips of rubberized fabric, like in factory boats.
About changes. I have already changed: the boat is designed for 2 people, but with one person the center of gravity goes to the "bow" of the boat and it goes down, and the stern rises, the wave overflows, so the seat for the rower moved closer to the center of gravity, which is easy to determine from the layout -models. As for the board height, I proceeded from the maximum cutting of a standard sheet. but, for the future, I think that a side width of 40 cm, instead of 33 cm, will still be preferable, and stability will increase by increasing the overall width of the boat.

The boat is double in terms of the number of seats and carrying capacity.
You don’t need to beat anyone with oars, when there are two in the boat, then the seat is inserted closer to the “bow” of the boat, and when there is one, then 30 cm to the stern. As for convenience, it is naturally more convenient for one, but, if desired, the boat will withstand the second. Good luck!

Foldable boat under mercury 3.3

Homemade folding boat

InstaBOAT For Sale_Setup the Boat

From ancient times to the present day, one of the integral parts of the development of mankind has been the craft of a fisherman. The first intelligent beings fished with their hands, relying only on their dexterity, and with the development of the mind and human abilities, certain devices and tools appeared (from a sharpened stick, which pricked fish in shallow water, to modern high-class rods and reels), which made it possible to catch more fish and faster.

One of the most significant inventions of mankind is the creation of swimming facilities that have progressed from an ordinary raft of tree trunks fastened together to comfortable yachts and cruise ships.

The simplest boat, invented at the initial stage of the development of shipping, is in demand even now, because millions of men and women, experiencing primitive excitement, spend hours and even days fishing, which is an excellent form of active and healthy recreation.

Also, the boat is an excellent means of cultural pastime - isn't it great to take a walk before going to bed on a rowing boat on the lake near the dacha to the singing of birds and the splash of fish that came out to the evening zhor? This type of relaxation will be an excellent sedative for the nerves and a way to immerse yourself in yourself and your thoughts.

Unfortunately, good boats often have a very high price, which not everyone can afford. And if the boat is not used so often, then there is no point in such large costs.

Fortunately, there are many types of this individual watercraft, which (with a certain perseverance and responsibility in the approach) are quite easy to assemble with your own hands from not the most scarce materials. This article will be devoted specifically to collecting your own boat with your own hands.

Boat types

Boats, depending on the design, immersion depth, hull shape, motive power and material of manufacture, are of various types.

The main types of boats by type of material:

rubber (inflatable);
metal;
wooden;

According to the type of driving force, there are three main types of boats:

rowing (oar);
motor;
sailing.

Boats are also divided into types according to the type of construction:

dugout boats - hollowed out (or scorched) from a tree trunk;
composite boats - assembled from two or three or more parts;
frame - a rigid structure is covered with sheathing (tarpaulin, wood, bark, plywood).

And finally, boats differ in the type of landing on the water:

flat-bottomed;
round bottom;
keeled.

What kind of boat will we build

We will focus on the construction of a plywood frame flat-bottomed boat, in view of the fact that the materials necessary to build such a vessel are not in short supply and are readily available. In addition, such a boat will cost us quite cheaply, which will be an indisputable plus.

A flat-bottomed boat is very convenient in its operation, its flat bottom allows you to move even in shallow water - you can start your voyage from the very shore and make it even along small forest rivers. Even a flat bottom provides the boat with reliable stability on the water, and the material of manufacture provides good buoyancy.

The construction of a framed plywood flat-bottomed boat:

The flat-bottomed boat has a very simple design, which attracts people who want to assemble a boat with their own hands.

Its design includes:

a frame assembled from frames (transverse ribs of the boat) and a keel beam (a longitudinal beam running in the center and forming a keel - a kind of ship's spine) - a set of a ship;
sheathing (in our case, plywood).

In shipbuilding, each part has its own specific name, which is not recommended to be confused. Let's get acquainted with a few of them - so as not to lose face when discussing your finished boat with a professional boat builder, to whom you may decide to brag about your success.

Construction details and their dimensions - what you need

on the sides - 5 millimeters;
on the bottom - 6 millimeters.

a hammer;
hacksaw;
jigsaw;
chisel;
plane;
sandpaper;
meter;
ruler;
building pencil;
plumb;
level;
epoxy glue.

Workplace preparation

Starting a workflow

So, on the slipway or on your floor, in the grooves on the fixed crossbars, a keel beam is installed, prepared according to the drawing of the boat that we are going to build in advance. the implementation will not be difficult - just estimate the dimensions of the desired boat and compare it with the dimensions indicated above, as well as think over your unique shape, guided by the knowledge gained from the previous paragraphs.

Rough installation of frames

Installing stringers

After the epoxy glue has dried, similar operations should be carried out first with the cheekbones, and then with the bottom stringers.

Preparing the frame for sheathing

The frame of the boat is almost ready. Now it needs to be prepared for plating. Preparation consists in removing all protrusions and roughness with a planer and sandpaper to give a streamlined look. Stringers should not protrude beyond the edge of the frames, stem and transom. It is necessary to control the quality of preparation for sheathing using thin rails, bending around the sides of the future boat and checking how tightly it fits to all parts of the structure.

The implementation of the next stage of the construction of the boat will determine the entire success of your enterprise. Sheathing is one of the most critical steps in building your small boat. The sheathing of a flat-bottomed boat should be carried out in the sequence: first the bottom, then the sides. The sheathing is carried out with plywood sheets of the largest possible size, pre-treated from the inside with drying oil in several layers. Avoid seams as much as possible. If this is not possible, then glue the joints on the reverse side with strips of the same plywood, of considerable width.

Additionally, from the inside, the lining can be smeared with building varnish after mounting on the frame. After complete drying and careful inspection, you need to carefully sand the surface.

Boat painting

That's it, your boat is ready. Behind hard work, and right in front of you is your brainchild, created by your own hands. Now it remains to collect fishing rods, dig up worms, lower the boat (light enough, as it is sheathed with plywood) into the water and hit the road or at least for a short walk. But it is important to leave one piece of advice in this article - never forget about your own safety. There is nothing more precious than human life, and no successfully caught fish will pay for it. Fill the free space in the bow of the boat and between the frames with foam or plastic containers. If you have, then put on a life jacket.
We also need plywood for sheathing with a thickness of:

on the sides - 5 millimeters;
on the bottom - 6 millimeters.

Among other things, you will need tools. Their list:

a hammer;
hacksaw;
jigsaw;
chisel;
plane;
sandpaper;
meter;
ruler;
building pencil;
plumb;
level;
epoxy glue.

After preparing the necessary structural details, you can begin to assemble the frame.

Workplace preparation

To begin with, you need a slipway - this is a flat wooden shield measuring 3.5 meters by 1 meter, which is necessary for installing the keel beam and subsequent assembly of the frame. The floor of your workshop is also suitable as a slipway, on which you need to firmly fix the keel with the help of bars with grooves.

The tool should always be at hand. The workplace should be comfortable and clean.

Frame assembly, instructions and assembly order

Starting a workflow

So, on the slipway or on your floor, in the grooves on the fixed crossbars, a keel bar is installed, prepared according to the drawing of the boat that we are going to build in advance.

I would like to note that the drawing must be made carefully and thoughtfully, but despite this, its implementation will not be difficult - just estimate the dimensions of the desired boat and compare it with the dimensions indicated above, and also think over your unique shape, guided by the knowledge obtained from the previous points.

Rough installation of frames

The frames are installed with temporary fasteners that are convenient for you on a pre-marked keel beam, taking into account the fact that the zero frame, consisting only of a transom (with a groove prepared for the keel beam) and its fastening in the form of a wooden corner, is attached in relation to the vertical plane of 10 degrees.

Installation of frames in prepared grooves

The frames (with grooves prepared on their outer side for the keel and fender, as well as for the stringers), set according to the plumb line and level, are installed on the keel beam using nails / screws and epoxy glue.

Installing stringers

The stringers are installed in the same way as the keel beam - in pre-prepared grooves of the frames and fixed with epoxy glue and nails / screws.

The order of installation of stringers is as follows:

zygomatic stringers (located at the junction of toptimber and floortimber);
bottom stringers located symmetrically to the keel beam at a distance of ½ from the keel to the bilge stringers;
side stringers (located slightly above ½ of the height of the top-timbers).

Fixation of stringers and stem

Probably the most difficult procedure when assembling a boat, since in order to fit the stringers to the stem (bow of the boat), they will need to be bent and securely fixed.

This procedure is carried out as follows: after fitting and installing the stem on the keel beam in a grooved way, it is necessary to wait for the epoxy glue to dry completely, and then mark the grooves on the stem, cut them out and fit the side stringers to them, fixing in the standard way.

After the epoxy glue has dried, similar operations should be carried out first with the cheekbones, and then with the bottom stringers.

Preparing the frame for sheathing

It is necessary to control the quality of preparation for sheathing with the help of thin rails, bending around the sides of the future boat and checking how tightly it fits to all parts of the structure.

Attention! Poor preparation of the boat for sheathing will inevitably lead to leaks as a result of a loose fit of the sheathing to the frame. Sheathing: The most important thing is the bottom and sides of the boat.

Sheathing is carried out with plywood sheets of the largest possible size, pre-treated from the inside with drying oil in several layers. Avoid seams as much as possible. If this is not possible, then glue the joints on the reverse side with strips of the same plywood, of considerable width.

In no case should the joints be run along the frames - it is better between them. Carefully work out each joint with epoxy glue or other sealing methods. Fix with screws. The attachment points are also carefully worked out with epoxy.

Additionally, from the inside, the lining can be smeared with building varnish after mounting on the frame. After complete drying and careful inspection, you need to carefully sand the surface.

Boat painting

Painting a boat is a simple matter, it all depends on your tastes and creativity. But since your brand new boat is covered in plywood, it's best to paint it over with a thick layer of epoxy paint, which can be found at any hardware store. Epoxy paint will not only look good, but will also make the boat even more airtight.

But it is important to leave one piece of advice in this article - never forget about your own safety. There is nothing more precious than human life, and no successfully caught fish will pay for it. Fill the free space in the bow of the boat and between the frames with foam or plastic containers.

If you have it, put it on. And never go out on the water in a strong wind.
Happy sailing!